Diaries of George King-Hall

At the age of twenty, I begin for the first time in my life a journal. I do so because it becomes at times a most useful thing to refer back to for events which otherwise one would have forgotten. Also, it helps to form ideas, and gives power of writing, thinking, etc. etc.

Joined Duke of Wellington, as I am going, or hope to go in Narcissus in new Flying Squadron.

Came home on six weeks leave. Heard of terrible misfortune out at Halifax. Got an invitation to Captain Fowler’s in Berks. So on next page, I begin my every day journal.

Forenoon. Went in with my father into the Admiralty and got my appointment to Minotaur cancelled. Afternoon. Went to Marylebone baths with Russell. Wrote Robbie a few lines.

Started in the afternoon for Crookham End. (Capt. Fowler’s). Arrived down there in the evening. Met by Capt. Fowler and family, with a Miss du Merique. They had been out to an archery and croquet meeting.

Went to see Aldermaston Park belonging to Mr Burr. It is a most beautiful Park at our place in the grounds, from a nice little glade, four magnificent avenues of trees branch off, of oak, elm, lime and ash respectively. It is a sight worth seeing, and not often seen. The oak trees in the Park are some of them upwards of 800 years old; they look so majestic and truly grand, even with the tempests, they still stand upright, and unbending. We also saw a drove of deer, and frightened them, so as to see them scamper off. They looked pretty jumping.

Went out for a walk and thoroughly enjoyed being in the country, everything being so pretty and quiet. We went down (Mrs. Fowler, Misses Fowler, Miss du Merique and myself) to the river Kennet, which is very pretty, winding about and very clear.

Went to Brimpton Church, a neat small church built at a cost of £6,000, very pretty inside. Did not stay to the Holy Communion. I felt I was far from fit. In the afternoon, went to Midgham church, also very pretty and very similar to Brimpton Church. Built by a Mr Green at a cost of £6,000.

Rained all day. In the afternoon went with Capt. Fowler to Mr Tull’s House, and had a game of billiards.

Loss of Captain; sudden and dreadful accident. Poor Mrs Burgoyne loses a husband and brother. Captain Burgoyne being one of the finest seamen in the Navy. Charlie Walker having just passed into the Army, was making a trip with his brother-in-law and was like a brother to Meta. It has sent a shock to the whole nation, more especially the Navy. I have lost no friends in her, but many acquaintances; but although not friends, they are my brother officers.

The papers had the loss of Captain in them. My father went down to Mrs Burgoyne at Ryde, telegraphed to say she was calm and resigned. Poor Mrs Burgoyne. She hardly realises it yet. In the evening papers, saw eighteen men were saved. Very thankful to hear it, for it would have been very dreadful not knowing anything about her, the cause of the foundering etc. Went to meet my father at Kensington; train 35 minutes late.

My father went into Admiralty, to gain any further news about Captain. Heard a capital sermon at St James by Rev. Mr xxx. My father came back with copy of Admiral Milne’s despatch, very evident none but the eighteen are saved. It is indeed a most appalling catastrophe.

Had some singing. James Hall came in. Had a rattling tea. Went to St James in the evening. Walked back with Grandmama, and went with my father to James’ lodgings. My father related in a most amusing way his flirtations and love affairs, preparatory to the last and final one, in which he was settled. James laughed much, but he broods too much over his affair with the fair and fickle Elise. The thing is he has an appetite on him, like a young bull. Wish Henry Mandeville would drop me a few lines, saying how he is.

Received a letter from Annie. I think she is engaged. In the evening had a walk with James, most curious fellow; told me to choose my own present to be given by him. I of course protested against his giving me one; it put me in an awkward position. Heard from Mandeville, such a nice letter. Wrote Mandeville in the morning and Symonds (photos).

Received a letter from Symonds and read the accounts given by the survivors of the Captain. It is in truth a horrible disaster, such as has rarely been witnessed. Wrote Captain Fowler.

Went into the City about an advertisement. Had a look at Traitor’s Heads, stuck on top of it. One fancies it should be adorned with them in keeping with the place. Had a walk with James in the evening, out to Hammersmith, chaffed him a good deal about the fair Elise. Aunt Fanny paid us a visit.

Heard from Annie (nice letter). Went into US club and got my violin from Oxford Street. In the afternoon drove in with James into Jermyn Street, walked to Sadlers Wells Theatre; very small one, a good stage. Came back by Underground Railway. Wrote Symonds. Received pay ticket £6.0.0

Paid a visit to Mr Williams, Hyde Park. Did some canoeing on Serpentine with Russell. In the afternoon, James, Russie and I went to British Museum, found it closed, which was a great sell. Proceeded on to the Zoological Gardens, made a capital dinner there. Russie and James went to the Princess’s Theatre. I walked home (1 hr 20 m).

Received a nice letter from Captain Goodenough and Keble’s Hymns from Captain Fowler. Walked into the U.S. Club.

Had lunch and paid the British Museum a visit; walked back with my father. No news at the Admiralty about the Narcissus. My father met Lord John Hay. They had a talk about China –disagreeing; the former advocating the use of keeping a large squadron out there, the latter opposing the idea. In the evening had a talk with Henry Bothamley.

Wrote Captains Goodenough and Fowler, Lieut Wilmot and De Hoghton and Annie Tornay.

Went with my parents calling at Mrs Jose and Lady Smith, who was the wife of Sir Harry Smith. She originally came from Badajoz, and when the soldiery sacked the place, she hid in an oven and was rescued and taken care of by Sir Harry. There is a yarn of several officers casting lots for her, being only 14 years of age, or not quite so much. She was a most beautiful girl and accompanied her husband through the campaign. She related the difference between the two sieges of Badajoz, having been in both; first by the French, then by the English, and the latter behaved like demons, in consequence of the prolonged resistance and bloody assault. She is a dear old lady. She was married at the age of 14 years and is now 72 years of age. Sir Harry died 10 years ago.

Went into the city with my father; made arrangements about my insuring my life. Wrote Mandeville and Wilmot.

Went into the office of the UK Provident Insurance Co – examined by doctor Mitchell, who was most kind to me; spoke to me about attending the Lord’s Table. Found I had very good lungs; blew up 214 cubic inches. Walked to the British Museum, met James, nearly two hours late. Went over the Museum (James very prosy). Walked out to Notting Hill.

Paid a visit to the Tower of London, meeting Henry Bothamley and James there. As usual James wanted to write a note which delayed us all, and led to a little row between Henry and the beef-eating warder. Went all over the Tower. Mr Hughes, the Chief Warder, showing us over Lord de Ros’s apartments. James, although 17 stone 4 lbs, not able (so he said) to stand the musty smell of the underground cells.

Henry Bothamley then asked us to dine with him, which we did at Crosby Hall an old palace of Richard the 3rd. It has a splendid banqueting Hall, a Council Chamber, made a moderate lunch. One thing I liked so much was, there being instead of greasy waiters, waitresses, which was much nicer and cleaner; besides lending a charm to the whole place, as the fair sex usually do. They (the waitresses) are as a rule good-looking at this place. Crosby Hall has seen a good many vicissitudes of fortune, being hundreds of years old.

Went over the Guildhall, a splendid building; has a very fine window at each end and a gigantic figure of Gog and Magog at one end on a pedestal. There are monuments to Nelson, Wellington and the two Pitts. Nelson being the finest, it having in relief at the foot, two fine specimens of blue jackets at the foot with chest bare; one with a sponge and hammer in his hand, and the other preparing to heave the lead.

Proceeded to Austin Friars Church, 600 years old, has belonged to the Dutch Congregational Church for 300 years; very light inside and airy, clean looking. It has lately been restored. I should have added that the roof of the Guildhall is unsurpassed, save by Westminster. Walked home.

Went to St James Church, both morning and evening. Cousin Henrietta paid us a visit, having left Versailles about 3 weeks ago.

My beloved Mother’s birthday. Went with Meta in the afternoon and called at Lady Smith, with the intention of asking for Sir Harry Smith’s carte-de-visite. Unfortunately she was out. In the evening, Aunt Fanny, Grandmama, and James came and had a very pleasant evening, dancing, singing, and music. Mama had some handsome presents. My father gave a valuable one.

Went out for a walk in the afternoon, with my beloved Mother etc. dined in the evening at Aunt Fanny’s with Meta and Russie.

My six weeks leave being up, I returned by the 1.54 pm train from Kensington, arrived a little after 5.00 pm. Came straight on board The Duke, found several old ships.

“Under what sail, would the Inconstant have capsized, on the night of September 6th?”,
– or words to that effect.

So Capt. Rice asked no further questions. I don’t suppose there could be formed a better court. Sir James Hope, President. Adm. Yelverton, Captains Goodenough and Brandreth, being of the court.

Went ashore in the afternoon, had an interview with my outfitter, Guy & Eames, who did not seem at all to relish the laudable idea of mine, viz: paying my own debts, but still it must be done since the calamitous affair of my grandfather. One good thing is, my life is worth £100.

Attended the Court Martial the forenoon, very interesting. Sir James Hope makes a capital president. Received a letter from Henry, giving me advice and direction, that I could be like him in spirit and my heart changed as his is. Paid my outfitter the magnificent sum of £2 sterling and forthwith tried on and ordered a cocked hat £4.1.0. Struck a jacket off the bill. Paid for my glass having been repaired.

Attended the Court this morning; very interesting. Struck me that Captains May and Rice got out of their depth in some of the questions they asked Messrs. Barnes and Barnaby. Some were ridiculously silly, if I may use the term. The three best heads there are Sir J. Hope and Captains Brandreth and Goodenough.

In the afternoon went ashore. Saw several old College friends etc. Paid Lily a hasty visit, promised to come another day and stay longer. Then proceeded to see Mrs Parkin, found Miss de Glaves only at home; had a chat with her, and then I strolled to Southsea Pier in company with Bearcroft and heard the band of the R.M.S.I. Was disappointed, perhaps not good pieces. Strolled about with A.. Willoughby; walked into Portsmouth with Lieut Russell, promised to dine with him on Monday. Aboard the Excellent invested in a few of the new postcards. Want of money is a great nuisance. I feel very unsettled and would wish to go abroad at once; some inexpensive station and ship.

Attended Divine Service aboard. A very good sermon. In the evening attended the Circus Church. Mr Martin was not there. A very long sermon of a good hour.

Attended the Court Martial in the afternoon. Examination of Mr Reed, CM going on. He seems to have always thought Captain unsafe and unseaworthy.

Dined on board Excellent with Lieut Russell; had a game of billiards, and a smoke. Met several old shipmates at the Keppels Head.

Received my appointment to the Lord Warden in lieu of a Naval Cadet. Heard from my father.

Joined the Lord Warden, which is being completely refitted and repaired. She has a fine large Gunroom. Took my gear on board this hulk, that all the officers and crew are hulked in, viz: the Bellerophon. Found several old shipmates belonging to Lord Warden. Took on duty aboard the ship.

Was on board the ship, on duty from 8.30 to 4.30 pm and from 9.0 pm to 7.0 am Oct 6th. Learnt a good deal seeing gear fitted etc. Had a yarn with Jackson, Gun’r Jack. Found he was an old Calcutta; he told me he went by the name of ‘Jack’s dog’. I have heard a good deal about him from my father. I think I shall like the ship very much; there seems to be a nice lot of officers belonging to her. In the evening dined with Jimmy Haye at the College; paid a visit to Tommy McGill. Returned to the Lord Warden at 9.0 pm. Caulked it out on a broken down sofa. Lots of rats for companions.

Lots of work all day and night does not bring a spell, for I had to rough it out again, as best I could, with plenty of rats as companions.

Had a letter from James, and also a splendid pair of binoculars; they are the best, without exception, I have seen for a long while. Heard from Russie.

Had a slight ruffle with Commander, as I particularly wished to see James off from Southampton at 2 pm in the Pera, but I could not manage it without offending the Commander, which would be very impolitic, especially at the beginning of a commission, so I bade farewell to James in a long telegram.

Heard from my father. The Lord Warden came out of dock, into the steam basin. Wrote home.

Officer of watch on board Lord Warden, so could not attend Divine Service. In the evening attended at the Circus Church; annoyed very much by a couple of squeaking children, squawking at intervals, making me the medium of passing lozenges, etc.

Part of the day on board ship. Had a talk with Admiral Yelverton. He was very agreeable and kind.

Killed time aboard the ship, coaling all the time. On the 14th witnessed a review on Portsmouth Hills, by HRH Duke of Cambridge.

Spent as usual on board the ship. Heard from Eardley-Wilmot. I was deeply grieved at hearing from him of the unsatisfactory state of his mind, or rather speaking spiritually of his heart. I can sympathise very much with him, as I have often felt the same as he poor fellow describes himself as being in. I gave him what little comfort I could.

Sunday, it being the first I have spent without being able to go to Church at least once during the day.

Engaged on board the ship in one way and another, being mate of the Upper Deck. Hauled off to the hulk, last night (18th). Dined on board the Minotaur at a dinner given by the Gun Room Officers to old shipmates. I met a good many old friends; came away early.

Nothing of interest having occurred. I don’t keep up the diary daily. Had a nice letter from Henry M..

Lots of work, it being Saturday, and I being Mate of the Upper Deck. A billet which I like very much, and intend doing my best on, as it is greatly to my interest; if for no other purpose, to pull well with the Commander, who is rather ticklish to deal with. He seems decided, which is something for him, for although I admire it in any one, whether good or bad.

Capt. Brandreth, I should think, wasted as few words as anyone living. I have been told this as a fact by the person concerned, who being sentenced to lose three months time for a punishment, was told by him his sentence in these words, viz: “Break rules – Suffer – Three months time.” But what he does say is always to the point.

Heard from Home. Admiral Yelverton very kind. He promised to make me if possible. Unable to attend Service. Boisterous and unpropitious weather preventing landing Church Party. Wrote Henry a long letter.

Asked the Commander for four days leave. He refused me it on the plea that it was too late, and that he could not spare me which very much disgusted me, as I had set my mind on going to say good-bye to all. I could not get three days, but got leave from Saturday evening.

The ship is getting some sort of order and cleanliness, I am glad to say. I like the billet of Mate of the Upper Deck, lots of employment. Had a slight tiff with Charles P... got appointed to the 2nd Launch. Wrote to Eardley-Wilmot.

In the afternoon asked leave till Monday from the Commander who would only grant me till Monday morning, so I went up to Town by the 5 o’clock train, got home about nine o’clock and found all well.

Attended Divine Service at St James. The afternoon being taken up by Capt. Heath, much to my annoyance and disgust, as I wanted a little quiet talk the last afternoon. Started off at 6 o’clock, Russie leading us through miry and swampy fields and paths. Found Jackson was going down by the same train, meeting him at Clapham Junction. Had some tiff at the Nut. Came on board.

Wrote Meta and Robbie. The Upper Deck is no sinecure billet to hold, don’t care much for the Commander, should think he had not the best of tempers.

The ship came out to Spithead. I like the billet of Mate of Upper Deck very much. I had a nice letter from Mandeville yesterday and from which I gained great consolation and comfort.

Sailed yesterday from Spithead; Miss Barbara Yelverton accompanying her father. I have not seen her sufficiently yet to form any idea of her looks, (whether pretty or not).

My deck today was in a most filthy state owing to the steaming, which blacked everything as fast as it was cleaned. However, I hope I shall get it into better order soon. I attended Divine Service. Did not care for the sermon generally speaking, too much like a professor giving a lecture. However, there were several things that imparted instruction. I am sorry to hear from several WRO that he drinks rather freely. I hope there will be a voluntary Evening Service.

I’m glad to say all my debts except my two outfitters are paid, and I hope soon sensibly to reduce them.

Rolling heavily. The ship is a very wet one; all three decks having been wet since last night. It seems to me we have a very inexperienced crew. They require so much driving about individually and the Lieuts seem wanting in experience. The Commander, I think is a smart fellow, and has a pretty strong will.

Alongside the New Mole. Went in the evening to the Cathedral, attending Divine Service; I thought it a very bad building for hearing distinctly what was said. ......[words missing] our English Cathedrals have, which gave them such a venerated and solemn appearance. But it is not at all a bad sized building for Gib.

After Service, called at General Bisset’s. Found Uncle George was over at Tangiers, so after getting, or rather stealing, a 6d. stamp off the General and refusing to dine, I took my departure. Wrote to my father.

Asked the Commander leave for the afternoon in full expectation of getting a surly refusal; was agreeably surprised by receiving a very civil answer granting me leave, so off I went with James – went shopping. We invested in photographs of the Rock and views of a bull-fight etc. Met McGillicuddy and Edwardes, who told me they had ordered a horse for me, so off we all three went. My nag being a very good one.

We had a splendid gallop on the sands and in riding through a village on the way to San Roche, we rode through a flock of sheep accidentally, in which McGillicuddy’s horse doubled up. We rode away with all speed as none of the sheep were hurt, and the natives were not very friendly, as we soon saw, for as we were galloping past a couple of muleteers, one of them up stick and aimed a tremendous blow at McGillicuddy’s head which luckily he missed.

I thought we should meet him again on our way back, so we continued on and arrived at San Roche, where we picked up five other fellows.

So as we had not much time left, we started back, and on our way back, we met the two muleteers, and I tried to hit him, but missed, on which he jumped off and I’m ashamed to say we all scampered off, not through being afraid of them, I feel sure, but simply not wanting to have a row with the fellows.

On the road back, Hock in trying to make his horse jump, got thrown off by his horse rearing and lay insensible, which rather put me in a funk, but dismounting and bathing him with water, he soon got all right again, and we continued on our road.

Before coming off the neutral ground we all had a race round the Race Course, in which I came in almost neck and neck with Stack, beating him if anything.

The Cerberus arrived in. She looks a most curious craft, her hull having bulwarks built up gives her the appearance of a merchant steamer, and again the mast and spars makes her have somewhat the appearance of a man-of-war.

Sailed this day for Malta. The Eastern side of the Rock has the appearance of a Lion Couchant, Europa Point forming its paws and neutral ground its tail. A great many sail in sight. The Choir had a practice in the Admiral’s Fore Cabin.

Had Divine Service, the singing and chanting was very fair considering it was the first trial. I do not like Wilson’s Sermons at all. He gives one the idea of not having his heart in his work.

Passed Algiers this afternoon, about 4 miles off. It is a good-sized town, built on the brow of a hill, and coming down to the water’s edge, defended by batteries. The houses all being white, it appeared somewhat like a mass of white sandstorm. There were 3 or 4 French men-of-war there, apparently all ready for any German force.

Arrived at Malta last Thursday 24th. Went to the Opera in the evening, saw L’Africaine – more of the opera hereafter. Saw John ... liked it very much.

I have just come from Evening Service held in the Garrison Chapel ashore – I liked it very much. The sermon was so simple and touching, the text taken from the Hebrews. There were a great many Sergeants there from the different regiments; no officers in uniform. Last night I went to the Opera and saw La Somnambula acted and sung. The Prima Donna’s name being Albani, she sings very nicely and prettily, and as she is only about 22, she will have a very fine voice indeed when she grows older. Also, there was a very good tenor. I wrote Annie a long letter. There is one thing I must try and obtain, viz: [words missing].

Heard from home by the last mail. My Mother telling me of Thorndean having fetched £28,000. I feel so sorry to feel it gone out of the family, besides leaving nothing for the family. I pray God may preserve my father long. Wrote home to my mother, Russie and Annie. Sent 8 dozen oranges to Capt. Fowler and home – each.

I have just come in from seeing a cricket match played between the Garrison and Fleet, in which the former made the most runs, but as the stumps were drawn before the Fleet had finished, it became a drawn game.

Heard from home by the last mail. Yesterday, I went with a party of men on board the Weser to get her ready for sea, with all despatch, to take any succours to the Psyche, which is wrecked on the Cyclops Rocks, off Catania. The Royal Oak and Caledonia are there. Poor Tommy Temple only went to her a short time ago (about 6 days).

Last Thursday (the 15th) I went to an afternoon dance on board the Prince Consort. It went off very well. I saw an old flame of mine, but she was not recognising me. I did not remind her of our old acquaintance. Today, I lunched with Admiral Key. Mrs McRea and Rich and Miss Randolph being there also.

Sailed, or rather steamed, out from Malta Harbour last night, as little was known about the Psyche.

Daylight, Mt Etna appeared right ahead; Catania a little to the left. Smoke issuing from the top of the crater. The side was studded with several villages and many detached houses, but I was rather disappointed altogether at the view for there was nothing very striking nor bold, but the reverse, in the Mount. I hear, however, that from the Straits of Messina, it appears to greater advantage.

The Psyche was ashore within a couple of hundred yards of Cape Molini and one could throw a cricket ball on to the nearest rock above the water. The Royal Oak and Caledonia – Weser, and an Italian Man-of-War were here besides ourselves. Two small vessels were on the Psyche’s bow. She had struck on the port bow, and made a good big hole there.

I spoke to John Fellowes, who was very much cut up at her loss, and poor Scott owned it was entirely his fault. He kept porting his helm and trying to get clear of them by going inside, and he had not the decision to reverse his helm, or stop. An attempt to get her off was made today, but proved fruitless.

I have been hard at work all day in the Launch, one way or another. A great effort was made at half past two to haul her off. This ship (L.W.) having her stream chain and hemp sheet made fast, and all three ships going ahead but it was unavailing. Later in the day, the Caledonia came ahead of us to tow also, but she made us fall off and we drifted astern, broadside on, and after nearly capsizing the Italian, and as near as possible touching the rock, we got clear, being obliged to let go both of our cables, which will give us a great deal of trouble tomorrow.

This afternoon, made another great attempt to haul the Psyche off, using our sheet chain, but it proved fruitless and we carried away our sheet. So any further attempts at getting her off were abandoned and orders given to strip her, which we began at once. The Italian steamed off only too glad to get off so cheaply.

This afternoon at about 12.30 the eclipse of the sun commenced, and some time later about 1.40 the sun was totally eclipsed. It was quite dusk, the stars appeared, I was just able to read off the time from my watch. The moon did not appear darker than the surrounding blue sky (appeared of dark indian ink wash), and from it rays of light shone out, which gave it a very curious appearance, seeing these rays shoot out from a dark round body, or in fact from no body at all, for as I before said, the moon appeared of the same colour and shade as the sky and did not appear a separate body.

The total eclipse lasted about one minute and a third of a minute, and the first notice of the sun appearing was in the form of a huge bright star, which immediately brightened up the whole place. The thermometer fell very little, not more than a degree and a half. I am very glad I saw it for I did not know how it looked.

Weighed this morning and practising at firing at target, making very good practice. The Royal Oak remained to clear Psyche out.

Had into lunch in the Gun Room Mr Hastings and The Hon B. Yelverton. Hood presenting to the latter in the name of gunroom officers a silver bouquet holder and bouquet. She was quite equal to the occasion. I should also say that Capt. Brandreth and Lt Dacres also lunched, the Commander and Secretary being unable to. Hood sat between the Admiral and Miss H. and I sat on the Captain’s right. Jack Eden sitting at the head and on his left Dacres sat. The lunch went off very well indeed. Very good viands and liquor and there was no stiffness or awkwardness felt by anyone. They all expressed their pleasure in having lunched in the G.R. At dinner the Warrant came in. It was a very noisy dinner, liquor having been very freely supplied all day, however it went off all right. Later in the evening I’m sorry to say several youngsters and oldsters too, drank more than was good for them.

Heard from my beloved Mother. I’m horribly afraid this sad family affair is preying very much on her mind and is doing her great harm. It seems to me but a forerunner of more troubles to come amongst the family. It shows what a great deal of harm and sorrow can be done by one person.

Another year begins. I hope it will be fruitful of more happiness and joy than the last has been in every way to myself and family. I look back to this time 1870.

Called at Mrs Key’s and found her and Miss Key at home. Stayed some little time. In the evening attended Divine Service at the Garrison Chapel.

Nothing of note has been going on. Monday I heard from my beloved Mother and was so sorry to hear of the death of Mrs Gore’s child. Meta, poor girl will be quite worn out when she goes home. Last night the Governor’s Ball came off. I did not go. I heard however that his liquor was anything but good. The Champagne consisting of five parts – three parts of water, one of lemonade, one of champagne, the concoction being called champagne.

Heard from my dearest and truest friend, Henry Mandeville. His letter gave me much pain and yet satisfaction. The pain was merited, for it was a guilty conscience accusing me of ungratefulness, added to forgetfulness towards my God and Saviour.

The jottings in my journal are few and far between, but I must say in excuse that I have not much time to myself, and what I do have is generally occupied in writing letters and reading. I shall mention a few incidents that have occurred since my last writing in this book.

Monday (9th), I had the pleasure (speaking in conventional terms) of dining with Admiral and Mrs Key, Commander and Mrs Morant, Commander Fitz Roy, making up the number. It was a very quiet dinner, verging almost on dullness. After dinner we sat round the fire, talking. Mrs Key does not play the part of hostess at all well. Miss Key, a dear old maid of I should say 40 summers, or rather winters, being by far the most agreeable.

Yesterday (12th) After playing several games at rackets, I went out for a pull in Edward’s skiff, there being some little sea, I got pretty well wet through. I was surprised by Adm. and Miss Y. pulling round a point in the galley and catching me in a very dishabillé state. I bowed, which they both returned in the most gracious manner.

In the evening went with Prickett to the Opera. I made an appointment to meet him at the Club at 8 pm but he did not make his appearance till 8.30 causing me some inconvenience. I did not care much for the Opera. Mlle Girius I detest. Knowing what she is, I daresay prejudices me against her and she looks so bloated and flabby in the cheeks. Her acting is I think simply ridiculous. She has a few nice notes, otherwise there is nothing to recommend her.

I commenced learning the violin the day before yesterday. I wonder when I shall be able to play at all decently.

Last night our Dramatic corps gave an entertainment at the Opera House in aid of Captain’s Relief Fund, consisting of a farce Retained for the Defence, and a burlesque Aladdin. A clog dance and hornpipe between the two. I went with a party of six other fellows having taken a stage box between us.

The farce went off very well. Wiseman and Le Strange carrying off the honours. Next followed a hornpipe and then a clog dance, which was very amusing, especially as towards the end his breeches fitting him taut, they rent before and behind, making him appear in a most comical light. He danced away quite unconscious that the unusual mirth was being excited by his accident, for a very good reason too, viz: he did not know that his breeches had gone.

The Burlesque was on next, preceded by an overture compiled for the occasion by the band-master of the 48th, it bringing in the songs which were 17 or 18 in number. It was well played. The burlesque was excellent. Widow Twanky could not have been done better than it was by Wiseman. Le Strange also doing Aladdin to perfection. Temple did his part with great self-possession. Hood over-acted his part. Capt. Buchanan performed well. Leefe did fairly well.

The Prima Ballerina, Signorina Castralli and Signor Stanci danced a Tarantella in one of the scenes and did it very well, being encored. She danced gracefully. It was not over till midnight. Any amount of bouquets were thrown. Miss Y. throwing some and something like 20 from our box alone. I paid Mrs Key a visit at her box. Dacres condescended to pay us one.

Had a walk with Prickett. When first we set out seeing symptoms of heavy rain approaching we took refuge in the Capuchin Monastery and paid a visit to the worthy old fellows banked below. They were not well preserved. The last arrivals are in the best condition and look the most loathsome. The skin is very like parchment. After the rain had stopped we went on towards Sliema, and passing it we walked round it to Gzira and from there we crossed Quarantine Harbour by boat and proceeded to the Garrison Chapel; afterwards made a good dinner at the Club and came on board.

Landed to with the small arms men. I think Kane is a tolerably good hand at drilling. The Royal Oaks drill well and are what you say “good all round.”

Ordered Michael to send some oranges to Ireland for Henry Mandeville and all expenses to be paid for. I think on receiving a present and also a bill for a carriage at the same time, one half the feeling of obligation and gratification towards the sender goes and takes away from the pleasure of getting it.

I forgot to mention of my going over a large American steamer last Monday called the Arizona, a paddler, worked with a beam engine and on her way out to Hong Kong, as she is intended to run between that place and Shanghai. She is five years old and has been running on the American coast and is fitted for holding something like 500 passengers, 200 of those being first class.

She has a fine saloon and clear upper deck, the latter being canvassed over and a smoking room and sitting room. In the last named a nice piano, and she has nice sleeping cabins both for married people and single people. She makes, according to my informant (the steward), 12 and 13 knots. He told me that in about a month’s time, a much larger steamer would come in, she being one of a new line that run from New York to San Francisco via Suez Canal, touching at Malta to coal etc. I must say these Yankees are most enterprising for by lines and steamers they have constructed, one can go round the world, changing only once, during a whole passage.

This afternoon as no work was going aboard, I took the opportunity of getting out of the ship and hired a small skiff for the afternoon, pulling all over the Grand Harbour. I paid every steamer a visit, in hopes of hearing or seeing of one that had dropped her screws off – so as to inform my father.

After three hours skiffing I landed at the Canteen and played several rubbers at fives. In going about the harbour today it struck me that the traffic and commerce was more than commensurate to the place. I suppose its being such a convenient place for calling at and coaling, brings the greater number of ships in and not the merchandise.

In reading through The Gypsy by James one or two passages rather took my fancy, one especially on one’s trying to argue oneself into a decision on any particular subject, it running thus.

It is wonderful, most wonderful how people deceive themselves in this world, and how they go on arguing with themselves on both sides of the question for an hour together, affecting to be puzzled and asking themselves what is to be done, when, from the very first, they have determined in secret counsel, what to do, and all this logic and disquisition has solely been for the purpose of bewildering reason, or duty, or conscience, or any other of those personified qualities of the soul, which the great parliament of men’s passions choose to look upon as the public – the spectators.

Last evening, I went to the Opera to hear Poliuto, one of Donizetti’s, Potentini, and Pavani singing the latter, was very good. I considered the Opera pleasant, but Bellini and Meyerbeer, are my two favourite composers, the former for his pretty airs which please one’s fancy and keep the mind in a state of pleasant ecstasy; the latter stirs the mind up by its sublime and grand loves and makes one imagine himself in the seventh Heaven.

Been very unwell since last night, indigestion. The weather being so unpropitious I did not go ashore as I usually do on Sundays.

Had a letter from home. To my surprise I heard of Uncle George getting an appointment out here at Malta, as Deputy Assistant Adjutant General – a long enough name for any appointment. It will be rather jolly having a house to go to, for I suppose my worthy Aunt will come out too. Heard also of Harry’s serious accident whilst out hunting, and sincerely hope he will pull through alright. Wrote to my mother, Meta, Henry and Harry.

The Serapis sailed yesterday for England. I was in Gamble’s house and witnessed her going out.

Our amateur theatricals came off last night and were successful. I have not heard the amount cleared yet.

Telegram today gave news of Bourbon’s army being driven on Swiss territory. I think the Prussian terms are a great deal too harsh and if she persists in them I think England should step in and interfere for humanity’s sake, but I don’t think she will persist in them, but has just demanded them so as to give up.

Had a walk with Fane, landing at Spencer’s Monument and walking round the head of Grand Harbour by the race-course. Attended Service at St Paul’s Cathedral and was never more disgusted in my life at the utter and wilful inattention paid by all, or nearly all to the Service. Everyone paying attention to the singing, it gave one the impression of being at an Opera.

Last night went to the Opera and saw Faust. It was very good indeed, Girius and Pavani singing well. The choruses were good.

Today I went a round of visits, first calling on the Keys, and Barlows, both being out. I next proceeded to the xx and saw Capt. and Mrs xx, who both seemed nice persons. Heard from James, from Barda [?] this morning. He was quite well, had not done much shikaring. Wrote to Tom de Hoghton.

I have just returned from the Barracca Chapel having heard a very good sermon indeed. In the afternoon I paid Prickett a visit on board the Antelope and was surprised at the comforts they had in the way of accommodation. Prickett has worked well in her in every way. He is one of those steady going clear headed fellows that are sure to work their way ultimately to the top of the tree, having nothing brilliant about them, but possessing that methodical and determined manner, that eventually succeeds against every obstacle. The day before yesterday I had a letter from Henry Mandeville, such a loving sensitive one. I ought and do feel most grateful that I have been blessed with such a true friend and adviser.

I should mention that on Friday last I began taking lessons in French with Fane from Monsieur Bucci. My violining goes on satisfactorily.

Last night, Saturday, I spent up at the Stevens, a raffle going on for a skiff and I went to represent Hood, which I did to his satisfaction, as I won it for him. They seem hospitable people, but I still withhold my review on them, until I know them better.

Had three letters by the Southampton mail. Heard with regret of the unavoidable decision about Robbie. I feel so sorry. Annie seems to have been very gay, nothing but one round of gaiety, dinner parties, balls, skating and other amusements. She was kind enough to send me two letters.

During sail drill in the morning I had what might well be called a providential escape, for standing under the fore-top, the pin (about fourteen inches long) that goes in the heel of the top-glt. mast fell within a few inches of my head from the top. If it had hit me I should be afraid almost to say what the consequences would have been. Wrote to Tom de Hoghton, Home, Annie.

Yesterday afternoon the New Dock was opened. The dock was nearly encircled by posts supporting lines of flags from one to the other. A stage being erected at the head of the dock, where the ceremony of laying the last stone was to be performed.

Only a limited number of people were admitted on it. I managed to get in after a good deal of trouble and found myself next to the Stevens. The place was crowded with people kept back by barriers from the dock. A Guard of Honour composed of Marines was inside the barrier and also the Naval Cadets and Mids of the Trafalgar about 70 in number were fallen in two deep.

On the Governor passing the ships in his barge they manned yards and the Lord Warden saluted him. On his landing with the Admiral he was received with all due honours. On the Governor’s party reaching the stage, the Bishop of Gibraltar gave a short blessing and the choirs of the ships tried to sing Hymn 242, but signally failed.

Miss Yelverton then – after the stone was lowered into its place, it having been suspended by means of shears all but the last touch of the mortar having been put on – was presented with a silver trowel and put on the last piece of mortar and with a square, tried if the stone was laid square.

At that minute, at a given signal from the dock, all the ships fired a royal salute and the Caledonia dressed ship with flags and slipped from the buoy; also the sluice was opened, and a splendid column of water came rushing in and very soon filled the dock. The caisson was next drawn back and the Caledonia entered in very slowly indeed and the ceremony was over. It was a success, but wanted more life and spirit shown. There was no cheering and the band was not strong.

In the evening Admiral Yelverton gave a ball to which I went, more particularly to renew an acquaintance with some people I had formerly known, however, I was unsuccessful. I stayed there till 2 am and had several dances. It was very crowded the first part of the evening, but much better later on.

Went to the Stevens in the afternoon and with them went to the Prison Chapel. The wretched prisoners, wretched in so far that they certainly cannot pay much attention, if any, to what is going on, being made to keep their eyes and limbs in one position. This must be very irksome and keeps the mind employed, speculating “how much longer they will have to remain in the same position”, and “when they will be allowed to move”?, and a dozen other similar questions. The answer being the theme of speculation presents itself in many forms and the mind gets wearied and confused in sifting the chaos of ideas. Naturally enough, what is heard of the prayers or sermon has no hold on the mind and of course does no good. Whereas, on the other hand, by allowing them to fall into a natural and easy position by sitting down, or standing up, their mind would be free to receive or store up all that is said to them.

The mail came in and I received letters from Meta and Theresa Mann. Frank Walker lunched with me.

I went ashore this afternoon to see the Carnival. I unfortunately went in uniform which was a check on my freedom as I did not like to throw confetti naturally, and I could not force my way through the crowd. I suppose one twentieth of the people were masked and in the most absurd costumes imaginable.

The Strada Reale was crammed full of people, a continual shower of sugar plums being kept up principally between the people in the street, and those in the houses and carriages going by, for there was continuous stream of the latter passing, the occupants as a rule being masked.

In the large square, the top of the library and houses were full of officers and ladies pelting everyone and each other. The square was full of people in the most fantastical costumes, dancing and exhibiting the most uproarious mirth and gaiety. I got a few showers of confetti, but nothing to speak of.

To think that for three days people should be so silly and devoid of sense, as to enjoy their holiday in this childish fashion. One would think it was more fit for children than grown up people. One pleasant circumstance I noticed was, however much the people got pelted, they kept their temper which surprised me, as naturally the Maltese are so fiery and prone to take offence. There were some amusing scenes. A group of disgusting looking fellows, dressed in hideous Jacks, coolly walked up to a fatherly looking gentlemen and each in turn patted both his cheeks and tweaked his nose, much to his astonishment and the amusement of the spectators.

Last night, I went to the Opera, saw Roberto Diavolo. Today I dined with Frank Walker and commissioned him to take some gloves home to Meta and Annie. In the evening went to the Hammet Chapel.

Had dinner with Prickett on board Antelope. He has got her in very good order indeed and she does him credit.

Temple has got well out of his row, his usual good fortune following him through all his rows. Fane goes to the Pandora. I am rather sorry he is going, as he is a very nice fellow, very even tempered in the Mess, if not elsewhere.

The Commander I am afraid is rather boozey tonight. I feel very sorry for him for I’m certain, as that I am here, if he does not knock off drinking like he does, he will ruin utterly his constitution and die a premature death. Wrote to both my father and mother.

Communion was celebrated today on the Main Deck which I do not like, as the ship’s company had to remain sitting at Church and consequently talked and laughed till the Commander was obliged to get up and order silence. I spoke to Mr Wilson and said that it ought to be held in the Fore Cabin, or under a screen, but he answered by saying the Admiral was averse to it and wished it to be held as it was.

Wrote to James Hall and tried to write Annie, but I felt so tired and felt my letter was so devoid of any interest that I stopped writing.

The French paddle steamer went out. I am very glad to see that the French have agreed to the German terms. Now the work to be done is to choose the form of Government. I hope the Orleanists will gain the throne. I dislike a Republic very much.

Steamed out of Grand Harbour yesterday afternoon, in company with the Prince Consort, Caledonia and Wizard. Trafalgar accompanied us outside and then parted company.

This morning I kept the morning watch. At daylight we were off Syracuse, a moderate sized town, very compact and with a sea wall round the seaward part of the town, appears pretty well fortified. Mount Etna was looming in view ahead, looking very grand and imposing, its sides streaked with snow. The top emerging in view from a bank of clouds which hung heavily on the mountain side near the top. In the course of the day we passed Catania and Aci Reale (the latter a large town at the foot of Etna) and Cyclops Rocks. In ancient mythology, the Cyclops were supposed to be sons of Neptune and were workmen of Vulcan, who plied his trade in the subterranean vaults of Etna. They were horrible monsters, with only one eye, and that in the middle of their forehead.

In the evening, we entered the Straits of Messina. The coast of Italy on our starboard side, and Sicily on our left. The moon rose in a most glorious manner from behind the coast of Italy and with a pair of binoculars, furze and small bushes could be easily seen standing out in relief against the moon, although I should say, some five miles or more distant.

About eleven o’clock we passed through Charybdis, and past Scylla and Messina; the latter was well lit up and appeared a large town (and it is to be regretted we did not pass through in the day-time, as I believe the scenery on the coast is magnificent). The Scylla Rocks were hardly distinguishable, in fact I don’t think they were, although some said they were, but I expect imagination lent its aid to their sight. The Ancients assigned the origin of these rocks to a horrible woman noted for her crimes and killed by Hercules and turned into the above mentioned rocks.

In passing through Charybdis the vessel’s heads veered about a good deal, up to as much as 6–7 points, the current rushing against the ship’s side very strongly. I should say we took about half-an-hour or more passing through. I hope I shall not be thought prosy in writing a little more about mythology, for I feel bound to give the story about Charybdis. It runs thus – Neptune fell in love with her, as she was a most beautiful woman, but Amphitrite his wife, did not like this at all, so she turned poor Charybdis into a sea monster (who I conclude is always stirring up the water, thereby causing the whirlpool).

This morning, on going on deck, found we were some way through the Straits, and had the Lipari Islands on our right, Stromboli not showing very distinctly. The coast line of Italy could be seen running along behind the Islands and we had Sicily on our left, it being rather misty the land did not appear plain. The top of Etna was seen now and then, so both the two volcanoes could be seen at the same time.

We had sail drill in the morning and in the evening spar drill. I may mention, that we have been steaming since leaving Malta.

Palermo Bay. Anchored here this forenoon, about one third of a mile off the landing. The town of Palermo is situated on a lovely plain, ridges of mountains running round the plain in different directions, as if shutting in the plain from the rest of the island and sacredly guarding it.

This afternoon, in company with Markham, I went up Monte Pellegrino, starting about one o’clock and landing at the New Mole. We made a detour round the town and arrived after some little time at the foot of La Scala di Rosalia, the road one has to ascend by. The lower portion of it is built on a series of arches zigzagging up a dry torrent bed. The whole of the road is paved with small rough stones, which is not pleasant to the feet. The view from any portion of this road is truly lovely. I have never seen anything to equal it. First the bay, which is a magnificent one, not being too large, bold headlands at each extremity. Pellegrino on the left and Cape Zafferana on the right. The former being a huge mass of rock, rising to the height of about 1960 feet, and about 12 miles round at the base, with rocky and precipitous sides.

The town lies at the head of this bay and looks so pretty with huge mountains standing boldly out in the background, and its suburbs scattered round it, the latter running out in different directions all over this plain. This plain being about 25 miles in circumference. Monte Reale is seen about 4 miles distant on the hill immediately behind the town. There are a large number of churches in the place and numerous domes are seen, but as I have seen little of the town I shall not say anything more about it at present. But to continue my recital of our ascent.

After a tedious and very warm walk of about an hour and a half, we reached the Sanctuary of Santa Rosalia – entering by a rather unpretentious porch, we beheld in front of us the grotto, which is very pretty and natural. It is not very large and has a large entrance for its size.

In it is the tomb of the Saint, and a marble effigy of her covered with a robe of beaten gold chased with flowers, (the robe being a gift of Charles III in the last century). The figure is very beautiful. It is of white marble and has on it the expression of dying, but the mouth seemed a little too unnatural. I had a drink of delicious cold water from a font behind the altar, it being supplied from the top of the cavern.

We did not stay very long, but pushed on to a bluff, where a large figure of Rosalia stands on a pedestal, it being a mile or so further on. The figure is in a lamentable state of repair. The view is magnificent, the whole of the bay with the ships at your feet. Sardinia to be seen in the distance and coast line running away for miles. The snowy peaks of mountains in the interior, make up a tableau really worth struggling up miles of roads to see. Unfortunately for us a mist hung over the horizon and the distant mountains, so that without the Lipari Islands, Italy nor Mount Etna could be seen, the latter being over 100 miles distant, so what could be seen on a clear day will be left to the reader’s imagination.

I sat for about a quarter of an hour, drinking in the view, and watching the tiny boats below, at their fishing. A steamer passed at the time and seemed to crawl along, our height above her being so great.

We did not take long coming back, about three quarters of an hour, or a little more, and passed into the town, through one of its suburbs, which consisted of small houses principally of the labouring classes. They seemed not over clean, but I shall leave this subject for further consideration. Came off with the Captain and made a rattling good tea. I feel too tired to write more.

This afternoon, I went in company with Gamble, Rowley and a fellow called Wright of the Prince Consort, in a carriage out to Monte Reale. It was a most miserable drive, the road and air being full of dust, and one of my companions not behaving exactly as he should have done.

Arriving at Il Duomo, the Cathedral, we got out and went inside proceeding to look at the mosaics which are very fair and abound in large quantities. I think there is some 80,629 square feet altogether. Those on the top of the sides representing the upper and middle rows, the history of man from this Creation, to the wrestling of Jacob with an Angel, each mosaic portraying some different action. Those on the lower row, represented our Lord and Saviour’s miracles; they were the largest and I think the best. The floor and sides are all worked in with mosaics.

From the Cathedral we went into the adjoining Benedictine Convent, now used by the soldiery. There is a very fine picture on the way up by the marble staircase, done by Novelli representing St Benedict distributing loaves to the poor. I think the Saints and a wizened old man’s face on the right are the best. The woman’s is not bad, the two children I did not like. Several of the faces on the left are good.

From seeing that we went into the Cloisters. They have about 200 pillars and no two of them have their capitals alike, every other one being alternately plain pillars and having mosaic worked in. The pillars were all marble and the corner ones were beautifully cut. The whole place is in a state of decay.

We drove back again, having kept the carriage about 3½ hours and paying a franc each. We could get no views, it being foggy and vilely dusty.

Last night I went to the Opera Bellini and saw Ruy Blas. The house is not so big as the one at Malta and I did not like the singers at all. The prima donna’s voice being thin and catching at the notes. The tenor was not strong enough. I left after the third act. I believe there was a good ballet after the Opera. The stalls were most uncomfortable and cost two francs and a half. I did not see a pretty girl in the house. The Strada Vittorio Emanuele looked very long (which it is), looking from one end of the street, the gas lamps appearing in a line, looked like a stream of fire.

Steamed out from Palermo Bay yesterday forenoon. The evening before the Prince Belmonte presented 18 tickets to the mess through Carponi. I went to the Opera it being Romeo and Juliet. I did not care for it much. There was a good ballet, but I don’t much care for ballets.

Arrived here the day before yesterday. Am now keeping watch for Hamilton, he having gone to Rome in company with a good many others. I cannot afford to go. The Rapid came in yesterday from Malta with Mids. Had letters from my mother, Annie and Dick Wilmot, the latter pricked me sore. This evening wrote to my parents and Annie. We are having very showery and coldish weather, not what one anticipates getting at Naples. We are moored off the Mole, inside the Royal Oak, Caledonia and Prince Consort having their sterns moored to the Mole. There are several Italian men-of-war in. The Franklin came in today.

Last Monday I went ashore in the forenoon and after walking with Mr Lewis to the Chiaja, we proceeded to the Museum and on payment of a franc obtained an entrance. I met Carponi by appointment and left old Lewis. We proceeded first to the mosaics, which are nearly all taken from Pompeii. There is a splendid one railed round representing a battle (between I think the Greeks and Romans). The statues are very good as are the bronzes. I liked some of the paintings, especially one of Leo. In the library, you walk up to the centre of the room, and the porter will meet you, and with two large books, he will clap them together, which causes a most curious echo – a rolling hurr---r-r sound. I went to the small room, not public, and saw things, which does not cause one to wonder at the destruction of Pompeii.

Monsieur having a bad ache now in his head, we drove down to the Grand Cafe and had lunch there. Carponi meeting there a Hungarian gentleman, he joined our party and after lunch we all went over the Royal Palace. It is of great size and has many apartments, well fitted up. In one of the rooms stands the cradle, presented to the Princess Marguerite by the City of Naples on the birth of her first child. It is very handsome indeed and precious also. I took the liberty of sitting on the throne, when the guide was not looking. There is a very nice little theatre in the palace also besides which there is a passage opening into the Theatre San Carlo, which is contiguous to the Palace, of which more hereafter.

From the palace we drove to the Catacombs and on payment of a franc obtained admission. There are three galleries. Some of the paintings on the walls are in very fair condition. From the Catacombs we went on to Capo di Monte having received an order at the Palace Royal. There is another palace at Capo di Monte which we went over. It has a large collection of modern paintings and an armoury. Drove down to the Mole and came off to the ship.

In the evening went with Le Strange to the Opera San Carlo to see L’Ebrea – the Jervis. It was very good indeed, Krauss singing the songs very well, although over fifty years of age. Le Strange knew her personally she having sung at his home in private. After the Opera came a most magnificent ballet, the dresses were superb and the prima ballerina danced like a feather. It was a very pretty scene indeed; lasted for an hour and a half. Came off about 1.30 am.

On March 21st, Tuesday, at 12.30 I started in company with Lewis, Paul and Martin for Pompeii leaving the station at Naples about 1.00 pm and arriving at Annunziata about twenty or thirty minutes afterwards, this train not running to Pompeii. We walked from Annunziata to Pompeii, about a mile and a half, several of the carriage drivers bothering us, until I with great solemnity hauled out pencil and paper and took his number, at which he made off at once. Paying an entrance fee of two francs each, we entered Pompeii, a guide accompanying us.

I am afraid of giving, or trying to give a description of the place, so I shall simply mention what I saw in a general manner. The place was doubly interesting to me from having read Lytton’s Last days of Pompeii, and having seen Petrella’s Opera Ione went to the amphitheatre calculated to hold 10,000 people and all over the ruins to the houses of Sallust, Diomedes and the Faun. In most of the houses, especially the principal ones, the walls were in good preservation as were a good many mosaics. It is curious to note the ruts in the streets, caused by chariot wheels. The streets would only admit, except in a few of the principal ones, one chariot to pass along at the same time.

I am not surprised at Pompeii being destroyed, for the most indecent significations are cut in the lava, both in the footpath and on the walls of houses, in which if you enter, the frescoes on the walls you see are simply loathsome and show how demoralised the Pompeians must have been.

I saw several casts of human beings found. On one, the features were quite distinguishable and on another you could see the female wore a ring, and had a very pretty hand. Loaves of bread found, and articles of iron of all sorts were found; tickets (ivory) for the theatre etc. etc. The big houses had baths in them, and you could always tell a sleeping chamber from the frescoes on the walls, and I would say a ladies, from the many frescoes of birds, flowers etc to be seen.

We stopped there three hours and a half and I could have stayed very much longer, but that it was getting late, we had to return, being very much pleased indeed at all we saw. I let my imagination run riot whilst there, imagining myself to be everyone, from the Roman Lord to the Greek Slave. It was really wonderful to see things as they stood 1800 years ago, and as their owners left them. We came back by the 6 o’clock train from Annunziata, very much pleased with our trip. It cost us a little over four francs, two for entrance to Pompeii and two for railway expenses.

Last night the Pandora came in with mails. I had a letter from my father, mother and Annie. Was so glad to hear of Russie’s being reinstated. Today, I went and got photographed and bought some of different scenes.

Was ashore today. First, visiting San Severo Chapel, to see the veiled marble figures there, the one of the dead Saviour is really beautiful, looking down on it, the features could be seen through the veil distinctly. It must have been very difficult carving the veil on the body. From San Severo we went to the Museum.

I had a good look at some of the paintings, especially Raphael’s and Correggio’s. I admired Raphael’s Holy Family so very much; the Virgin’s face is beautiful, calm, peaceful, yet not insipid or lifeless. There is something very taking in it, the eyes too, went down so meekly. Joseph’s face is very good, the expression being so good. Also his painting of Leo with Cardinal Medici, I much admired. Of Correggio’s, I liked the Magdalene very much. I should not have thought very much of St Catherine, if I had not known it by hearsay so well, and also seen a very good copy of it. The colours in it are very rich and mellow.

In the Bolognese Room I admired Lavinia Fontana’s Samaritan at the Well very much. She was very well done and looked very pretty, more of a pretty coquette, than of a woman humbly seeking knowledge and instruction.

Yesterday, I remained on board all day. In the afternoon, I had a letter from Henry who I could see was very much cast down by my inconsistency and cowardice. He wrote me plainly and truthfully as a friend should, pointing to me the dangerous position in which I stood. Wrote Henry M.

Last night I went to the Opera with White. We started at 5.30 pm by the officer’s boat, in spite of wind and weather. We had very good seats 4.5 francs, No 4 row – 20 seat, and I did so thoroughly enjoy Norma. The duets were lovely. Krauss’s voice is full, rich and powerful, and to hear the contralto sing after her was as drinking thin milk after cream, although one of her solo’s was very good. The tenor was good, a splendid voice, moved about like a stick. We went up into a box on the Grand Tier afterwards to see the ballet which destroyed all the impressions left on my mind by the singing.

Went up San Martini intending to see the Convent, but was disappointed as we were too late. It being a clear night, Vesuvius can be seen burning very brightly; looks as if it had a huge bonfire burning on top of it, or rather two, as the small cone is burning too.

I have been reading the Epicurean and am forcibly struck with the beauty and poetry in it, and also that longing for immortality that Alciphron displays, and it has caused me to think more about my soul and its future life than I’m sorry to say I have done as yet. I feel that longing for immortality (not transitory I hope) to make sure of it and rest content and quiet under that assurance. I have been taught and firmly believe that assurance can only be found in the doctrines of the Christian faith, and that assurance, it is my wish and will be my endeavour to gain. I must study my Bible very much, as I know little about its great truths, and God, I pray guide and lead me on my new path I have chosen and thou hast prompted me to choose. I am weak and my will and faith are not strong as thou knowest. Let me grasp the infinite riches in the Book of Books. Let me not falter or rail in my new path of life. God, Be thou my guide and helper in all things righteous.

HMS RAPID

Arrived here with the Fleet last night, found the Cockatrice here with mails. Heard from home and Meta, disgusted to hear the gloves are too small. Must send some more as soon as possible. We are made fast to a buoy inside the harbour. Yesterday in coming through the Straits of Messina, we passed through very strong currents, which slewed us about – the big ships just as much – like tops, our head flying round at times at least eight points. I don’t think we were in far enough to be in Charybdis. Saw the Scylla Rocks.

This afternoon I went ashore with Fane. We walked out of the town and after plodding through sandy roads, climbed up a hill, and were rewarded by a capital view of the town, harbour and Straits. After coming back, we went to the Cathedral of course. It has rather a handsome doorway carved in the Byzantine style. The place was very full of people, I suppose come to see the altar lit up. I must say the people did not show any great reverence, which they should have done towards the place they were in, it resembling more a meeting of friends come to meet each other, than of people come to pray for their future welfare and immortality of their souls.

This forenoon, I went with the Church party to the Lord Warden and in the afternoon went ashore with Nettleton the Paymaster for a walk, and after toiling along through sand and between walls, we fetched to a cemetery with a most peculiar built Chapel attached to it. The cemetery was evidently of recent origin.

Now, I have been some days in this Mess, I have formed an opinion on all my mess-mates.

Poor Church, the carpenter of (L.W), was on board here. He has just heard news about his wife’s death. When he spoke to me about it, he was quite overcome and I gave him the paper Henry so kindly sent me.

This morning the fleet sailed from Messina and after a couple of hours came half way up on a ridge of high mountains that looks most picturesque indeed. The country all round is very grand and bold, and looks very striking to the eye, and it is such a pretty sight to see as we come along the coast, villages nestling in the valleys and ravines.

As we lay to for about three hours, I went ashore and after a good climb and walk came to a very large ruin of a Theatre. It must have been very handsome and big and ancient. I believe it is doubtful whether it is of Grecian or Roman build. There are several columns with their capitals still standing. We did not sail for an hour after our time, the Admiral and Miss Y. detaining us.

This afternoon I went ashore with Nettleton, our Paymaster, and strolled about the streets of Catania, having arrived here this morning. There are three very fine straight and long streets in the town, the shops are scanty and not of any importance. The place seems clean and lacks life, but, I daresay it being the time for the Siesta caused it to have that deserted appearance.

The Wizard arrived this morning with our mails and I heard from my father and Harry Kelham, the former was in Yorkshire and had been visiting some mines etc. The latter, as he expressed it, had been ploughed at Woolwich and was going in for the line and I’m sure if his talents are anything like his writing, I don’t wonder in the least.

Last night, I had a very long and serious conversation with our Assistant Surgeon, Wood, handling many subjects, and at last it led to religion, necessarily, when the mind, will and power of man is brought up in the conversation.

I paid a visit to Dionysus’s Ear this afternoon. It is cut out of the solid rock, and is I should say about 60 feet high, and 400 feet long. The top of this cavern winds round in the shape of an xxx and from the top the sides curve out, till at the bottom on the ground there is about 50–60 feet between the sides. Thus standing at the entrance of it (if there was sufficient light to do so) the other end would be shut out from view by the curving of the cavern. The entrance is cut in the form of the ear, and words spoken in the cavern can be distinctly heard over the whole of it, and Dionysus sat up above the cavern, with a hole in the top looking down in it and thus could see and hear everything that went on.

This ear and a large prison are both cut out of the solid rock, which form the sides of a large, once used quarry. In the prison, the prisoners in the old times were not allowed to go out of it and this has caused a large amount of refuse to collect, which is now used as manure being very rich.

To show what the depth of the quarry is, out of the middle of it rises a large piece of rock, some 70 or 80 feet high, and it has a ruined castle on top. From this we went to the Catacombs which are very fine, and better cut than those at Naples. The length of them I don’t know, there are three tiers; they have few frescoes painted.

We also saw the old theatre and amphitheatre, and then we went to see the cricket match between the Lord Wardens against Caledonias and Rapids, the latter licking by one inning and 11 runs. In the last match at Messina, the Cs & Rs. and L.Ws. were tied in 1st innings, and in the second the latter were beaten by one run.

The fleet sailed from Syracuse on Friday the 14th (in consequence of small pox breaking out) and arrived here yesterday forenoon, so at present in this Harbour are congregated a middling sized fleet for these days, viz: Lord Warden, Caledonia, Prince Consort, Defence, Rapid, Pandora, Cockatrice, Wizard, Growler, and Royal Oak at Naples; Jaseur at Marseilles.

I landed in the afternoon and went to five Hotels in search of Mr Hannay, Annie’s friend and was unsuccessful in my search. I found Uncle George and Aunt Fanny at Dunsford’s and today I lunched with them. This evening I attended Barracca Chapel; heard a nice sermon. On coming off had a talk with Nettleton.

Yesterday being my duty day, I did not go ashore until the evening, and then I went to the Opera to see Lucia di Lammermoor.

Last Monday played for six hours at fives and in the evening meant to have dinner with the Gilbards but had to stay on board until 8 pm. Then I went with them to their box and saw pieces out of several Operas; Albani taking the principal part, it being for the benefit of one of the buffos who is very ill.

Next day (Tuesday) dined with the Gilbards, and met Capt. Brownrigg there, who took off several people and related a good many amusing incidents of Irish life.

After dinner, went to the Fancy Dress Ball in undress uniform. My Aunt going in a most gorgeous costume, that of a Moorish Jew. Ethel went as a little Tetuan Moor. Uncle George in costume of an Infantry Officer of 19th Century. I danced half a dozen dances or so. I felt very tired and unwell. Miss Yelverton wore a superb dress, as Anne Boleyn. Miss Porter looked very nice as a Shepherdess. Hood had a nice dress on of a Neopolitan fisherman. I spoke to both Admirals, and Admiral Y. was very kind to me and told me whenever I wanted to come back, I should. I told him my father was very pleased, whom I heard from that day. Heard about that blackguard G--- from him.

Lunched today at my people’s. Played fives all the day. Plodding through Gibbon’s Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire. Shall have to read it through several times before I shall be able to remember any of it.

Yesterday, being Officer of the Guard had the pleasure of boarding the South Packet Pera. I was awaiting her in Quarantine Harbour, and she steamed across, to my surprise, and entered Grand Harbour, causing me a good deal of inconvenience. I paid 4/6d in “go carts”, so being Officer of Guard is not a sinecure by any means. Lunched today with the Gilbards; played fives in the afternoon.

In an argument some time back (with one of our worthy members of the faculty), about the negro, I was worsted, not having thought much about that race. After dinner however, I drew a short sketch of the negro, as I thought him then and do now.

The negro is naturally more debased than the white man, in consequence of the curse pronounced on Ham’s descendants of God. The negro’s ideas are dull and few. His natural good and bad qualities, about the average of the human race, but the country and climate they live in is unsuited to civilisation in the manner that the white man possesses it, and that misfortune of climate and country being against them, the ideas and good qualities they inherently possess are never brought to perfection, or their full growth. They are always seen, even where Europeans live, in a semi-barbarous state, the influence around them, not being strong enough to break them from their ancient customs. But, I venture to say, if a lot of black children were taken from their own race (as they are now) and brought up by civilised teachers, who should stand to them in the light of fathers and mothers, they would not be found so very unlike their contemporaries of the white race – always bearing in mind the argument first used – I think it is most unjust to treat them like so much cattle, as if they had no soul, no feelings and to cite instances seen of them in their barbarous state on the Coast.

Dined last night with the Gilbards, having in the afternoon taken my Aunt out calling, and for a pull in their skiff – called alongside the Grimshaw’s yacht Mariquita. Little Ethel sang the Grecian Bend very well. The more I see of her the more I like her, always so good-tempered and full of tact and sense for one so young.

Went on board the Lord Warden to church this forenoon; asked White to dine next Thursday. Last Friday dined at the Stevens, Corradino House. Met Commander Wood, Pringle and Fitzroy there. They gave a very substantial dinner. Afterwards Maud and Alice sang together, I joining in the chorus.

Last night dined with Lindsay at the Gilbards, and went to the Opera afterwards to see Martha which was very good.

Went up with White, after dining with me, to the Stevens. We had a very pleasant evening singing etc. etc.

Dined yesterday evening with Uncle George and afterwards went to the Porter’s At Home. The balcony being lit up with coloured Chinese lamps. The engineer’s band played and we had several dances. I found it dull at first, hardly knowing anyone. Left about twelve.

Lunched on board, heard from Home. Wish heartily this Queenstown Affair was settled. I think my father has a good chance, and think the invitation to Mr Goschen’s ball a good omen. Called on Aunt Fanny, who is far from well. This place I’m sure does not agree with her, and she will have to leave. Ethel looks so pretty in her sailor’s hat with Rapid on it. In the evening attended the Barracca Chapel with Nettleton.

All during the middle part of yesterday, I played at fives and had my match with Forbes for the handicap. He gave me six and I licked him hollow, thus winning the 2nd prize, 6/–. I shall play Hodgkinson for the 1st, not that I think I have much chance of winning. The heat is getting rather oppressive.

Heard of Nettleton’s ungentlemanly trick in speaking to the Captain behind my back, who I’m thankful to say puts little faith in what he says. I think Nettleton is the most boorish, unmannered and ill-tempered cub I have met for some time. The Rifle Match is going on now. Yesterday one of our marines got the 2nd prize.

Dined last night with Uncle George. About 10 went to the Opera Door for 10 minutes to hear the quartet in Poliuto. Today I have been on board nearly the whole time; played a little at five’s, lost 2/– foolishly by a bet.

A most oppressive and enervating sirocco wind has been blowing all day and tonight. The Caledonia in hoisting out her steam-launch this afternoon, carried away her main yard fair in the quarter, the boat lodged on the Sheet Anchor. Providentially no one was hurt. I must find out the cause of the accident. In pulling by, I offered Capt. Cochran to assist if I could be useful, but he declined.

Have just come off from the Sod, having lunched on board the Mariquita yacht, a very nice lunch indeed. Fourteen sat down, including the Brandreths, Domvilles, and Mrs Salmon. Had it on the upper deck. After lunch went to see the Athletic Sports at Fort Manoel, 87th Fusiliers. I pulled Uncle George and Miss Grimshaw ashore in the former’s skiff. The sports were not very good. There seemed few entries for everything. I like the Grimshaws very much.

After the sports went off with Lindsay and had tea on board the yacht, then landed at the Marsa Muscetto Steps and came ashore. There is a very fine St Bernard Dog on board the yacht and likewise a nice little monkey, called Jacko (my soubriquet). The Grimshaws live in Cheshire and stay out here another year, cruising about. A regular family yacht. Being Roman Catholics, they carry a priest on board, by name Father Bell; seemed a pleasant fellow.

Sunday last (yesterday) dined with Uncle George, having attended the evening service in the Barracca Chapel, and heard a very nice sermon indeed.

Yesterday, the Queen’s Birthday, was kept with the usual honours; ship being dressed and salutes fired. I pulled Aunt Fanny and Ethel round from Quarantine Harbour, to the Grand Harbour, picking up White and we then laid off the Barracca and saw the ramparts manned and the feu-de-joie, fired. It was not much of a sight, and certainly not with the trouble of pulling round. In the evening, after dinner, went to Corradino House, and passed a pleasant evening there, singing etc. etc.

Heard from my dear father; I am afraid he stands little chance of getting Cork. It is a great disappointment.

Today, Tuesday. Called on the Grimshaws, with Lindsay, in Captain Gilbard’s skiff; found them at dinner and told the two girls we would go away for 10 minutes, and then return, which we did and had a chat with them. I like them very much, being very nice people.

Coming off to the ship, I went up to the Naval Parade ground and saw the small arm men and field batteries, going through a series of manoeuvres, and being inspected by the Admiral. There were not many people there as spectators; marching past was not good. The remainder were passably fair.

This afternoon went ashore, with the intention of practising singing, and was doing so when Mrs Salmon asked me to accompany her and the Miss Grimshaws and Mr Webb out riding. I managed to get a nag, and we started about 5 pm rode out to Civita Vecchia, stopping at the St Anton Gardens on the way. I was quite surprised at seeing such a place in Malta. It is of moderate size. Of course one has not any shady walks, but altogether I think they are no discredit to Malta. We had great fun on the road. The young ladies ride most furiously, and didn’t spare their horses.

We fetched Civita Vecchia about 7 pm and after remaining a few minutes surveying the view, for Civita Vecchia is situated on an eminence of small height. The country shows a great deal of cultivation; one does not observe it unless you go up a hill, or some height, from the road, little is seen. Of what I could see, it seemed to me every available patch of ground was utilised. Wheat is grown considerably. Passed numerous groups of (what Mrs Salmon says they are called) sucking monks.

Challenged both of the Miss Grimshaws to pull a race in a pair oared skiff, and was accepted. Arrived in Valetta a little after eight. Had some dinner at 17 Strada Scozzese, and came off.

Heard yesterday of Admiral Heathcote getting Cork; feel so sorry for I know it must be a great disappointment to my beloved Father. But I feel sure God, All Omnipotent L’omniscient has his own good purpose in ordaining it so. I trust we may all have faith and trust in Him.

I went up in the evening to Corradino House, and had some music. I have come to the opinion that the Miss I...s are not over burdened with too much learning, but I’m afraid that it is the same with all women, more especially girls in general.

In the afternoon, changed some books for Mrs Salmon and walked out to Sliema with them; had a most dusty walk. Found her at home. She has a nice house and fine garden, including a small croquet ground. Had tea (Mrs Brandreth came in) and I departed.

On my way I went in to see ice being made. I was surprised to see how simple it was. The manner of making it is thus: Fresh water is put into tins in the form of slabs and surrounded by cold sea water, of the temperature of 20 degrees, to which temperature it is lowered by means of an air pump, which extracts all the air from it. It takes six hours in making, and is sold at 2d a pound. It has been blowing a Gregale for the last 30 hours and is just abating now.

Attended the Barracca last night; dined with the Gilbards. This morning the Southampton Mail coming in. Heard the gratifying intelligence of my Father having been made a KCB as well as a well merited reward for his long arduous and zealous services.

Pulled Aunt Fanny to Sliema and back in her skiff; called along-side yacht Mariquita to lend Miss Grimshaw a book.

This evening at 5.30 steamed out of Grand Harbour, picking up the savage lump in Bighi Bay. I was in hopes of our not going until the morning. Lindsay, Webb and I had asked the Grimshaws, Gilbard, and Mrs Salmon to ride out into the country and have tea, so it was a great disappointment in our sailing. This afternoon Lindsay and I called on them all and told them of our plans being so thoroughly upset.

Lindsay called on Albani and got her photograph, at which he was very pleased. Last night I went to the Opera to see Martha and Auld Lang Syne, it being an extra night and for the benefit of Signor Leonardis. The enthusiasm was very great on singing of the Scotch song. The 48th Band were on the stage to accompany the Orchestra and soldiers to assist the chorus. She had to sing it twice and everyone, including the Governor and Admiral, standing up whilst she sang. She was cheered tremendously and I never saw so much applause elicited before in any house. Heard from Henry today; his letter gave me pain.

Off Point Molini, at single anchor in 12 fms, within three ships length of the shore. Yesterday afternoon, we had stopped steaming and were jogging along under very easy sail towing the salvage lighter. The weather gave many indications of change, thundering etc. Under plain sail, staysails, on the starboard tack. Wind suddenly shifted from the Eastward to Westward, taking us aback, stopping our way, and the lighter forged ahead, charging us, and came on starboard Bow, rolling against us, bending the shank and stock of Bower Anchor, staving in a couple of planks, splitting chains. Rain poured down, very heavy. The yards were all swung round (instead of only the after ones and spilling Head Yards, which would have taken our Bow off), and we hugged each other for some ten minutes, till fortunately the wind fell and we came clear. The towing Hawsers fouled screw and gave some trouble, but were soon cut by screw. There was a good deal of confusion on deck. The Captain soon gets nervous and loses his head.

This forenoon, we up anchored, and fired at a target. In the afternoon anchored and I went ashore for a walk with White, Sub Lieut of Flagship. We walked to Aci Reale about three miles from Point Molini. The country looks very pretty, so green and covered with trees. The road is simply cut out of the lava and (the side walls are lava) which makes it hard walking, but for the last half of the way, trees grew each side of the road, shading it and giving it a pretty appearance, the foliage being very green and thick. Aci Reale itself from the sea, looks compact, imposing and a fine city, but entering it, the idea is at once dispelled by the ruinous appearance of the houses and desertion of the streets of any life and vehicles. It is the most lifeless of any Italian town that I have seen and reminds me on a larger scale of Horta in the Azores. We had some capital strawberry ices at a cafe and then we looked into several churches and went over the Bellini Opera House, comparatively new built in 1869 or 1870, and opened by Albani in person some time back. She sang last night there Lucia and created great enthusiasm. It is a pretty House, not so big as the House at Malta; it has four tiers of boxes about 60 in number and contains about 140 stalls. We saw the machinery for working the scenes etc.

This forenoon, whilst laying off firing a very pretty scene for tableau was seen by the ridge of hills running along the coast. Catania on the left, standing on a tongue of black lava by the sea. Aci Reale about 10 miles to the right on a plateau; Mount Etna forming a magnificent piece in background, its huge sides sloping gradually down and one side gradually being lost in the ridge of hills by sea and ending at Catania.

Walked again up to Aci Reale with Joe Lindsay; passed large groves of lemon trees, growing each side of the road. Made an unsuccessful attempt to get Psyche’s boilers up; too much swell.

Wizard came in. Heard from home. A small batch of promotions including Joe Lindsay.

This afternoon I walked with Nettleton to Catania, doing it in 1 hr 40 min from the landing to the Grand Hotel. It was fearfully hot and we walked at a tremendous pace. Came back by train, 2nd class, 1 franc 25 c to Aci Reale, where we saw Albani off. Walked back to Point Molini with a lot of flagship fellows.

Round and near Catania, there are large fields of lava, it being heaped up in the most extraordinary way. It must have been thrown up, as where it stands now for it seems too far to have come down from Etna. A few miles from Catania the soil has the appearance of being very rich and fine and well cultivated. Lemon groves claim supremacy over anything else. Just as the little Bay of xxx opens you catch a highly picturesque view with Cyclops on the left of the bay, and the ruins of a castle, perched up on a mass of lava on the right. The village of xxx at the head of this little bay and at the foot of the hill, from which you look down, makes the whole scene very pretty. The road was very dusty and not very interesting.

The guard made a great row about Nettleton’s dog and only as a great favour allowed us to take him into the luggage van. On arriving at Aci Reale we were suddenly seized on and had to pay for the dog. I suppose a fine. Evidently they had telegraphed on.

Had a delicious bathe from the ship; the water is warm and clear, and bottom can be seen at 12 fathoms easily.

Today, the Savage after weighing a boiler, the slings broke and it sunk in 20 fms. So No 1 has gone for good.

We came in yesterday forenoon, having taken off 16 hours running across, making 6 knots an hour.

Today I lunched with the Gilbards, and called on the Grimshaws, with Lindsay; told them how delighted Capt. Wood would be to give them a tow, so Mrs G. wrote and asked him, and he said he would do so.

I should have mentioned that 3 boilers were raised, successfully and parts of the machinery. I heard of this ship paying off here, so immediately spoke to Pritchard about staying in here, in next commission as I am now.

Sailed out of Malta Harbour with a fine breeze under staysail, on Tuesday last about 5 pm, casting to starboard. Since that up to now, we have had a fair wind, fluctuating in strength, right aft or on the starboard quarter. We were enjoying splendid weather and I did not mind keeping the Middle Watch last night. The sky was lovely. I never saw the Milky Way stand out so well as it did last night; and a gentle breeze, smoking a cigarette and drinking cocoa.

Arrived here the day before yesterday, about 6 pm. Found the Enterprise a Russian corvette, flying a Rear Admiral’s flag; a small Greek iron clad King George and several small vessels.

The Harbour is not large and has a very narrow entrance, between the two lights, about 100 feet; inside the lights being very shallow. I should not think room for more than a dozen of our big ironclads could be found. There are a moderate amount of small coasting brigs and schooners in. They haul their sterns into the quay. We had to send ashore to get pratique. The town of Piraeus is not large and is situated well.

I went up by train, paying about 8d, 1st class. The country on the way up seems very neglected and not very rich. But I passed acres which might have been cultivated. Passed lots of olive trees.

Arriving at Athens we first bent our steps towards the Temple of Theseus, the most perfect ruin I believe, in existence. I was, I must confess, disappointed on seeing this first ruin in Athens, but I was amply recompensed afterwards; too much so. It looked very chaste and severe. From thence we wended our way up to the immortal Acropolis, and proud feelings which I felt at treading the same path and beholding the same buildings, that the greatest poets, lawgivers and philosophers beheld in their day.

The amount of marble laying about is enormous, and in large blocks which creates a feeling of wonder. How with the ancient appliances, they could raise them to where they did? I passed through all the temples; that of Minerva or Parthenon. It was a sight to raise in a stoics, feelings of grief to see these noble buildings, in ruins and made so by whom? Man.

At the foot of the Acropolis, are the remains of an old Roman theatre of large size, and further on the steps, or seats of that of Bacchus are to be seen. Descending from the Acropolis I went up the Areopagus, or Mars Hill, going up by the self-same steps that Saint Paul went up by, to address Ye Men of Athens. The next place visited were the remains of Jupiter Olympus, of which out of 150 columns, only sixteen are standing, thanks to the Turk. Most massive columns and it must have been a grand and imposing structure, close to which Hadrian’s Gate stands.

We next visited the town, the place has a clean and dull appearance. The men are as a rule fine looking fellows, well made. The Albanian costume which is worn a good deal sets their figures off well and looks very picturesque, and I think the women are generally good looking.

Last night, I went up to 9 o’clock tea at Chevalier Griswald’s, Chargé d’Affaires; arrived after 10. There were a good many legation fellows there, from different legations. Admiral Botakoff, the Russian Admiral was there. He is liked by the people very much, as is Admiral Yelverton. Count Massala, another of Carponi’s brothers-in-law, was very agreeable.

On our way to Corfu, having left Piraeus last night. All Carponi’s people came to see him off, and as soon as we weighed, we sent up rockets as a signal of farewell to him.

I went up to Athens in the afternoon, and made large purchases of photographs for Uncle George, and got a very good commission for doing so, for the photographer Constantine made me a present of several. I saw the Temple of the Winds and the Agora Gate.

We left the Piraeus, Tuesday evening, Carponi’s friends coming on the water to see us off, and we fired up rockets by way of a farewell.

Next day, we had just got up to Cape Malea, when it came on to blow heavy from the westward, and we ran down under the shelter of Cerigo and anchored off Port Nikolo, a small village of half a dozen houses, and an old Venetian fort, with a few guns. I went ashore and walked round to see if there were any remains of ancient Cythera, or, if the tombs had been excavated. I had a fine roam over the country, and picked up a small piece of marble that had evidently formed part of a column. We saw no remains, but were told the tombs could easily be excavated.

Had a delicious drink of goat’s milk at the village. One rarely gets pure milk on board ship. It was quite a treat drinking it. We only stayed there a day and a night and went off again on our way to Corfu, and yesterday we were beating about off Cape Matapan against a NWester.

The most delightful spot I have been at for some time. We sailed up the Straits between the Island and mainland of Albania on the morning of Monday (26th) and scenery was charming, beautifully green and wooded, (the Corfu side principally). Passing lovely dales and hills covered with the olive trees, towns nestling in the valleys and taken in all, I doubt if I had before seen such a very pretty scene, as I did on coming on deck that morning. It was a perfect morning and having a nice fair breeze, heightened the charms. Around it was very enjoyable.

The straits are not very broad at the entrance, about five miles across. Going up the Strait, the Northern Channel cannot be perceived, owing to the coast line trending across to meet the island, and it is only when at anchor off Corfu, the narrow entrance is seen. The Albanian side is much the most lofty of the two.

On Monday afternoon, I went to see a cricket match played between the fleet (L.Wd), (P.C), (Cal), (Def) and Rapid, (the last contributing 3 out of the 11) against the Corfu eleven (10 Greeks) in which the former were by a long way victorious. The 3 Rapids contributed 88 out of 153, which was not bad.

After staying some time looking at the match, I went on with Nettleton and White, and walked through the King’s grounds, and went over his House, being shown over by an Englishman who looks after it and gets £2 a month for so doing. He told us some amusing anecdotes about the King. Both the King and Queen are much liked here, as elsewhere, but the Corfiotes regret greatly that the island does not belong to England. I expect their pockets have been touched. The Caledonia steamed last night for Malta, Captain Stanhope being very bad with the small-pox.

The Fleet sailed this afternoon from Corfu. Our fellows never left a place with such reluctance.

Arrived at Navarino this morning. Found Trafalgar and Jaseur here, with mails for the fleet. I had the good fortune to receive six letters. We heard also of this ship’s being ordered to pay off at Gibraltar.

I called on the Admiral and asked him to allow me to remain in this ship next commission. He was most agreeable and said he would do anything for me etc. This bay, the scene of the annihilation of a Turkish-Egyptian fleet, is of great size for a harbour, being well sheltered and deep water. The village does not seem of any importance; a broken down fort stands one side of the entrance. Had a tiff with that ill-mannered cur, L---- . He is a very disagreeable fellow.

We left Navarino on the evening of the 30th for Malta, to pay off. Steamed down the whole way. Yesterday evening, I attended the funeral of the late Captain Stanhope, who died in the morning from small-pox. His death was much regretted, he being a great favourite with everyone.

Yesterday, the mail coming in. We had to take the mails down to the fleet which we are to meet of Cerigo. Soon after leaving the Harbour we sighted the Prince Consort which ship was making the best of her way back to Malta

For the last few days we have been in company with the fleet, jogging along very slowly, on our way back to Malta. Commander Pringle, Lt Wiseman and Sub Lt Hood have the vacancies. Pringle immediately took charge of the Caledonia, on the Commander of which a Court Martial will be held on arriving in port, for running her ashore off Santorini.

The night before last I dined with the Gilbards. Found my Uncle had had a slight attack of sun-stroke and fever and was very weak indeed. At dinner he nearly fainted. However, he is going on better now.

Today, being my guard, I boarded an Austrian frigate, Arciduco Fredrico, from Furmie (Fiume). The Richmond, US Corvette came in yesterday. The Richmonds are great chums of our fellows, both officers and men, as they lay alongside of each other for two months or more at Marseilles last winter. From what I have seen of them, they are the rowdiest, drunkenest fellows out.

Yesterday we turned over to the Andaman where I’m comfortably lodged; have a cabin which is something. I may have the pleasure of having a right to one in some few years when grey hairs are appearing on my large and thick-haired head.

Last evening I had tea with Paul of the Lord Warden, and pulled down to the Hospital to see Perry who is convalescent, he having had a bad case of small-pox. We could only talk to him standing at a respectful distance.

Returning about eight, I went out for a walk with White, landing at Spencer’s Monument and walking round the head of the Harbour into Valetta. We had barely got over a mile before we came up to a couple of gentlemen vigorously hauling a light trap along (which I must confess went along slowly) – a horse following in the rear, led by a young gamin.

Seeing the rate at which the trap moved and also the state of the beasts of burden, White most Samaritan like enquired into their misfortune and before five minutes had elapsed, I found myself in the shafts, walking along at a rapid pace, now and then gliding into a trot, the perspiration streaming down. Looking around I saw our two friends with their hands lightly touching the trap and allowing us the honour of being the asses, or rather beasts of burden. One of them informed us he was the Marquis St George. When we got inside the Porta Reale, we found ourselves alone, so we dropped the car and went to the Club and made a hearty supper of buttered eggs, a concoction which White had not before tasted of. I’m bound to say our supper was not spoilt by our walk being spoilt. I fetched on board about 11, and this day have been doing the day duty on board Rapid.

Heard by the last mail of a polypus having been removed from Russell’s ear. I do trust it may prove beneficial to his hearing. Yesterday evening, drove out with my Aunt’s cousin to Verdala taking my Uncle there, he being very weak and pulled down after his late illness and Sir A. Horsford kindly offering him the use of his Verdala residence. It is about 7 miles out and an unshapely building. It has some ground attached to it. From the palace, I saw the prettiest view it has been my lot to see in Malta.

Last Sunday the 30th the Orontes came in. I was in the Barracca Gardens at the time with Mrs G. after evening service at the Barracca.Next day the 31st, the old ship’s company paid off and on the following day, the 1st August, the new crew came round from the Orontes and turned over to the ship. I joined her and reported myself to Capt. Montagu. We all, I mean the officers, messed and lived on board the Hibernia. From what I have seen of the fellows, I shall like them. They are a quiet lot of fellows and I’m glad to say some are inclined to think seriously on subjects, which should be thought so on. The 1st Lieut is so different to the last scoundrel Nettleton – the very opposite to him.

I have been investing in lace etc. to send home by Orontes, so as to make a nice birthday present for my Mother which is on the 25 September. Had lunch a few days ago with Mr & Mrs Barlow. Dined with the G’s. last night.

At sea on the way to Gibraltar to rejoin the fleet. I’m very glad at getting away from Malta, for I find money does not find a resting place with me whilst there.

We have been steaming and sailing along very comfortably. I have shaken down alright and like my new set of messmates very much. They are a great improvement on the last set – no foul, filthy language. Capt. Montagu is very nice too. We passed the Cain Rocks last night, and Galitas today. It was my Middle Watch last night and I had rather an uncomfortable one, as at 1 o’clock a nasty threatening looking cloud, in the form of an immense arch, worked up to windward and caused me some uneasiness. However, after about an hour it broke up, and the wind gradually veered round. Had a talk with Philips, the Carp’s mate, about getting up a Bible class on Sunday afternoons. Found in Murray a Quartermaster, an old shipmate in the Challenger with me. Had all the news from him. I hope to get many letters on arrival at Gibraltar.1

Last Monday, the 14th, was my natal day and I reached the mature age of 21 years. Came of age and into – into what – my debts and nothing more. However, I’m just as happy as if I came into large estates and many mansions, for any man in whatever station of life his is in, has only to take life contentedly and philosophically, to be as happy as any living being. We have been tossing about off the Coast of Algeria for the last few days, foul winds. Now we have a light head wind and are steaming against it easily.

Last night being Thursday, the Captain (Montagu), dined with us all in the W.R. and we made a jolly little party. After dinner, as is our custom, we found our way on to the upper deck and gathered round the spit-kid (not romantic) and had many songs; Barber singing the sentimental ones in a high falsetto and Hamilton giving the good hearty ones (some of Dibdin’s) and singing with such a good will, that made the place ring again. Several of the others gave good songs. It was a very sociable gathering as it always is. We sighted the coast of Spain today.

On our way to Plymouth. We arrived at Gibraltar Sunday, the 20th, and found no letters awaiting for us. They had all gone on to Malta, which was very annoying. We went alongside the New Mole and got through the dirty work of coaling and sailed yesterday morning. That ass Strode would not let us stop for the arrival of the Southampton Mail, which was expected the same day. It was very annoying. I hope he gets a good rap over the knuckles for sending us to Plymouth. They might as well have let the old crew bring her home and paid her off in England, saving all the expense of sending them out to Malta in the Orontes. I believe Capt. Strode of Pylades is the quintessence of an old frump.

We have been having very fine weather, fair breezes and expect to reach England in ten days time.

Arrived in this morning, having put in to telegraph to Admiralty for a rendezvous, which we shall get tomorrow morning. We have not been able to get pratique in consequence of our Bill of Health not being visaed by the Spanish Consul at Gibraltar, and only by the Portuguese. A plausible tale was told of the former being in the country, when we were ordered off. The man said, “Of course, you’ve no objection to stating that fact in writing”, but fortunately he did not press the matter and said by rights we should be subject to three days observation, but he would telegraph to the Governor of the Province, who happens I believe to be at Madrid, for permission to dispense with that rule, in our case. We have not had an answer yet. I suppose the subject is being made a matter for a Ministerial Consultation. I hope they will soon come to a satisfactory conclusion.

This Bay of Vigo is very large and commodious and pretty, the town being situated on the Southern Bank, the bulk of it on a point of land running out to Northward. It is high up the Bay. The country reminds one of the Eastern side of Corfu, being well wooded, green and the country being dotted with villas, country houses etc, etc. There seems a moderate amount of traffic carried on.

Two Spanish men-of-war are in here, the Numancia which I met before at Bahia when in Esk, and the Villa de Madrid – a fine wooden frigate flagship, another old acquaintance having met her at Rio, when in Narcissus ‘65, she having just come round the Horn from the Chilean War, in a most dilapidated condition.

I have been reading many books lately, getting through the Aeneid slowly. I have taken a great liking to Goldsmith’s Essays. They are very good.

Last night, I kept the nastiest Middle watch it has been my lot to keep for some time – a nasty thick mist, and passing ships etc. It was not pleasant work, as it lasted nearly the whole watch.

Came in yesterday evening. Found two ships in here. Prince Umberto, Italian frigate and American Corvette. Wrote to my father today, informing him that I should return to the flagship to winter at Malta, of course subject to his approval. I should very much like to hear from home.

The fleet came in today, eight ships in all. The two Channel flagships are still in England, the Admirals having resigned command in consequence of the Agincourt business. After staying here two days, we go for a cruise.

I heard today that I stand a very good chance for the next vacancy, but one must take all such promises (given vaguely) with caution and reserve. I myself don’t think I shall get the next. I must try hard for the yacht.

Had a letter from Prickett, who is still at Constantinople, and also one from De Hoghton, both of very old dates.

The Yankees paid us a visit today and seem a decent lot of fellows. One fellow told me that it is the rule for them to telegraph to London and name the place they wish their mails from America to be sent to, so they sent a young clerk ashore, newly entered, who put on a lot of side and spoke with a lisp. He said “Send our mails to Cadif” (Meaning Cadiz), so accordingly their mails were all bundled off to Cardiff in Wales, whilst they were at Cadiz and they did not get letters for three months.

Prince Umberto in here and goes away next Saturday in the Prince Umberto frigate, a training ship for Mids, who work the Mizzen-mast.

Yesterday, was a day to be noted for our fleet being visited by the Crown Prince of Italy and of course numerous salutes went on. We were told to rig in full Dress, but there being so few in the fleet, the order had to be altered to Undress. Prince Umberto visited Lord Warden, Monarch, and Hercules.

In the evening I visited Flagship to spend the evening with White, and had a talk on serious matters with him. Somehow, I did not feel satisfied, I mean satisfied in thinking I could gain help from him.

Today, I had a game of cricket with the L.W.’s, and having walked both in and out, feel tired. We have been coaling all the afternoon. The Italian frigate Prince Umberto went out with Crown Prince. She did not go out very handily going ahead and astern a good deal, before she got round. I saw that the Mids manned Capstan etc.

Heard from White, the particulars of Wilson case. It is a scandal that a parson should come up reeling to read prayers. He has had to go home, leaving the ship. Also, Cramsie (Sub. Lt) tried by Court Martial at Queenstown, dismissed his ship and put at bottom of list.

One of the wettest days, we have had for a long time. It has been raining nearly all day. The King held a levée at the Ajuda Palace, to which the Admiral and all Captains went too and must have enjoyed it, rain pelting down as it was.

Today White and I had arranged a most (interesting) programme for the day’s proceedings, but of course the rain capsized it all and I have vegetated on board and been reading The Book. I do so long to be more earnest and a truer and fuller follower of Our Saviour. I should much like to see a prayer meeting got up on board.

This evening I’ve been writing home etc. and trying to make up an Acrostic, of which I’m heartily sick, on Meta’s name, in revenge for some verses she made on me some time back.

Had a good many back letters today which brought me very good news, principally about my dear grandfather. At any rate, now even it has made a great difference to my Mother and Uncle. Annie also told me of her engagement – I suppose to Mr Hannay. He has got a capital wife. Russie, I’m glad to hear, has at last gone into a Bank and left the telegraphic business.

Yesterday, in the afternoon we were in a continual state of furore, in consequence of His Most Faithful Majesty The King of Portugal coming afloat to visit the Fleet. He first proceeded on board Hercules, and then Monarch, and then to flagship. The fleet manning yards etc; firing salutes. On board the flagship he dined and left there at about 8.00 pm. We all manned yards and fired salutes, burnt long lights at each yard arm. It looked very pretty to see the guns firing, the smoke being seen in the flashes of the guns. The lights burning made the ships appear quite close to. The Prince Consort and ourselves were the best – all the lights appearing at once and extinguished together. It looked most picturesque, the ships illuminated and saluting, whilst the royal Barge proceeded past the ships. A North German gun-boat arrived during the evening.

Had a letter from my father, who gave me the flattering description that I received from Admiral Yelverton, and also told me I should get my promotion in my turn.

Sailing in company with the fleet. Been manoeuvring all the forenoon, under sail; find it is hard work doing so with the watch and we generally do it with the hands. The fleet left Lisbon on the 18th and proceeded to Cascaes Bay, where we met the King in the Estephania, Corvette, saluted him etc. In the evening His Majesty gave a dinner to the Admiral and Captains of Fleet. It was noted for the scantiness of fare and quality of liquors.

We weighed next day and jogged along under sail, and have been doing so since, off Cape Roca. It is hard work for this small ship to cruise with a lot of iron lumps, for she flies ahead of them; the least thing and then it is trim etc, until further notice.

On Thursday evening we left the fleet and went into Lisbon for letters and papers; arrived in late in the evening and anchored off Belem Castle. Next day, Hamilton, Wood and I walked up to the town and going to the Post office, I received a letter from Russie who told me of that Jamie’s proposal in due form to Meta. What a cousin to possess. I expect he thought the magic of £1,500 a year would do it. However, unfortunate Swain, he failed ignominiously. We sailed the same day and met the fleet off Lisbon and delivered letters etc. Today, we go in again, on the same errand.

Anchored, found no ships in. After leaving the fleet and rounding round Port St Julian, a signal and pair of pennants went up but we were all like Nelson, one eye shut, t’other blind.

Heard today from Captain Fowler and of my Mother, what good the country is doing her, and did my Father.

September 26th Tuesday last. We left the Tagus, in the forenoon, after having received the morning mail, (by which I got two letters, one from my Mother, who was at Crookham End with Robbie and Ella and the other from Annie, who told me all about her engagement to Hannay).

We spoke the fleet in the afternoon and found that they had had very heavy weather indeed on the 25th. Some anxiety was caused by the way one or two of the ironclads went on. The Prince Consort lost two men, killed by the rolling of the ship. She rolled upwards of 43°. Found the Minotaur which Admiral Hornby had joined. (My old ship for so long a time).

We left Lagos last night at 10 pm, separating from the Channel Squadron, after a dinner given by Admiral Yelverton to Admiral Hornby. I wished them all a most pleasant dinner, after getting up the anchor about 10 pm and turning in. I was nearly shaken out by the noisy messenger being paid down. However, I got off by 11, and then had the pleasure of keeping the Middle watch.

At which place we arrived this forenoon, first preceding the fleet to see if we could get pratique, which we found was alright, so in came the squadron and anchored off the town. It is a large fine bay open to the Northward and Westward; the town being built on a tongue of land, or, rather an island, which forms one side of the bay.

Read some of Bulwer Lytton’s Essays, which I like pretty well. I shall now close this part of my journal.

Arrived here yesterday, in company with the flagship Lord Warden, Caledonia, and Defence. I went ashore and had a look at the place. The streets are narrow, which I’m not sure is not a good thing – for it gives good shelter from the sun. The houses are built high. Went over the cathedral and had a bird’s eye view of the city, which reminds me very much of Valetta, which it does also from the outside, as well; the sea wall, armed with guns, running round it. The bay is large etc, etc, but altogether, I was disappointed with Cadiz, very little to see. The women are several shades nicer looking than those Lisbonese, for as J.E. said, when the Lisbonese were passing in review before our eyes one Sunday afternoon. “He had seen many better looking monkeys” – and I can quite credit it. Several of our fellows went up to Seville, starting at 5.30 and taking about five hours going up. They were quite delighted with the place.

From Cadiz, we jogged down to Tangiers, during the night, getting in next morning – the (4th).

That afternoon Bowen, Wood and I went ashore for a stroll – it being a shallow landing we found ourselves feted by burly Moors, and placed on terra-firma. We passed through the gates and wended our way up the principal lane – street, I should say – it was literally alive with men and, what shall I say, vermin. It was altogether a most picturesque and dirty scene, I have seen for some time.

The hovels that did duty for shops were very small, every one sitting on his hams outside, all dressed in the national costume, a long cloak with hoods and those flat Moorish slippers – some of the cloaks had been handed down from generation to generation – at least, I conjectured so. Great clatter and noise going on – and what with the noise and the Jews, (not Jewesses) importuning one to buy at their bazaars – it drove one mad. Rarely a woman showed herself. When she did, she took care to hide her charms. Oh! if she knew, how we longed to see them – but, only the eyes appeared and it ought to have contented us.

After passing through the gate, we came upon a truly Eastern scene – being a market composed principally of camels and these Moor’s asses of course there were, in abundance. It carried ones mind back to those stories one reads and pictures you see of the old Patriarchs. A snake charmer was there, playing with some harmless snakes. Camels, as I said, in abundance. It was curious to see one get down from a standing to a sitting posture – First, kneel on his fore legs, then on his hind legs, squatting on his flanks and then putting his fore legs under him and he was all right.

From the encampment we had a nice little stroll for about half-an-hour, or so, and then went to a bazaar, invested in a few things and came off plus a few fleas. Next morning, we went over to Gibraltar where we are now.

Went to the Gibraltar Cathedral in company with Stevens; did not care much for the service. The voice reverberates dreadfully, so much so that at times one can hardly understand what is being said. A curtain drawn lengthways across the building, about 10 feet down from the roof, is all that is required. At present I’m suffering from the effects of running feet foremost on to a sea egg yesterday afternoon, whilst bathing and can’t extract the pieces – so it is not pleasant.

The fleet consisting of the Lord Warden and Caledonia sailed this morning, the former for Malaga, Barcelona and Port Mahon, the latter for Malta. We wait until Saturday and take mails up to flagship, meeting at Port Mahon. Went ashore to-day with Price, after coming off, pulled to Rosia Bay in skiff and had a bathe.

The mail came in this forenoon, and I received a regular budget, two from Henry, one from Russie, and one long one from my Father. Went ashore in the afternoon, heard the band.

Forenoon, we shifted the fore topsail yard, 1st time of doing so, from aloft to let fall 20m. It has gone in the bunt, through keeping the braces fast in sweating the yard up.

The Governor gives theatricals and dancing this evening. Crocodile passed through the straits, to the eastward this morning.

Left Gibraltar this afternoon under steam. The Pylades under sail for SE coast. Yesterday afternoon, I had to go up to Capt. Phillimore, to play croquet; went up with Hamilton, had a game. Mrs and Miss Ogle and Miss McBean being there. I played the worst of the whole lot and at last failing to get through, the 4th and 5th hoop – I sent off as a [word missing] scattering destruction around.

Port Mahon – arrived here the day before yesterday, having steamed up the whole way – experiencing light winds, generally dead against us. We passed the Prince-Umberto off Malaga, who signalled to us “A pleasant voyage” – for which we thanked them. All the way up nothing of any interest occurred.

This port, or harbour, is a splendid one – completely landlocked, deep, long, but not broad at any part and lots of little coves, reminding one on a smaller scale of Sydney, New South Wales. The country is barren, comparatively speaking.

I went up to the town, during the afternoon. Larger than I expected and paved with horrible stones, which tire one’s feet immensely.

The town is something like Aci Reale – only not so big – it boasts of a Cathedral, and a very nice organ which has a history attached to it and runs thus – some time back in the year 1814 the good people of Port Mahon ordered a swell organ to be made at Amsterdam. It was made and sent out in a vessel in pieces. An English frigate, which some time previously had been treated very hospitably by the people at Port Mahon, captured the vessel, organ and a bag full of dollars. The Captain of frigate turned the hands up and said “Now my men – we have captured this organ – shall we sell it to the people or make a present of it.” Every manjack voted unanimously for doing the latter, so it was done and the people here in gratitude put G.R. over the organ. It has 143 pipes.

Was towed out this morning by flagship, and as soon as clear of the point we made plain sail, but can’t lay our course. Flagship has gone on to Spezzia.

Came in the day before yesterday, under sail, picking up the troopship’s buoy. Were four days coming down from Port Mahon, doing nearly all of it under sail, the last two days a rattling westerly breeze, at times sending us nine knots.

The Captain would not let me keep one of my Middle watches, which rather annoyed me, as may be easily imagined. Spoke to our first Lt. Laprimandaye, who very kindly offered to speak to Captain about it – Found Caledonia in here, with Growler and Wizard.

The Opera Company this season is not quite so good as the one here last year. The night before last went and heard an old friend Don Pasquale. Found my people still at Sorrento, and expected back next Tuesday.

Last night dined with Bowen at Club after attending the Evening Service at Barracca Chapel. Paid a visit to Price at Hospital during the afternoon. This morning we sent down lower yards and topmasts and began to refit thoroughly. The Royal Oak and Euphrates came in today – as also the mail. Received no letters.

Messina mail arrived a short time ago, and I was grievously disappointed at not getting my Spezzia letters, as I had fully expected they would have been forwarded on by the Lord Warden.

I went to Opera a few nights ago, and saw Ruy-Blas, not bad, the prima donna looked very ghastly and unwell but sang however fairly. The night before last Bowen and I dined at Barlow’s - the Secretary to Admiral Key - and met there the Master-Attendant and wife, a Mrs Shaw and her very nice young daughters.

Mrs Waters and Master Attendant’s Wife, made me start perceptibly on first seeing her and I almost believed in Mr Darwin’s theory, of the descent of man – for, really, I never saw such a grotesque and laughable sight, as she presented, with a coil of hair on her head and her seat of honour stuck out á la Grecian bend. This, added to her mincing step, almost proved too much for my gravity.

After dinner I gave a tune, and then afterwards Mrs Waters sang H’up with the boennets of bornnie Dundee – followed by some dance music played by Mrs Barlow and Mrs Shaw. Bowen and I did the dancing – during which I made furious love to the eldest child – she was really a very nice little thing.

Had a letter from James, who told me he had ordered me a £30 gun – which I have refused for good reasons.

Have been employing my time playing fives and billiards at canteen, and also at Valetta. Had a budget of letters from Home and heard of Admiral Inglefield’s getting Portsmouth Dockyard. Had letters from several cousins.

Last Saturday, saw in the papers of my father’s appointment to Plymouth dockyard and of Houston Stewart’s to Portsmouth. Met Admiral Key, who supposed, he said my father would give up his city connections, I said “I thought not.” Heard from my mother also. Had a most pressing letter from the Duns.

Dined with Gilbards. Uncle George still very seedy and pulled down. The Gilbards came back from Naples about a week back.

Been on board all day except during the forenoon, when I was at the fives court, and had a game of billiards, got beaten by four points.

Last night dined with the Gilbards, and afterwards took Mrs Gilbard to the 87th ball, Uncle George being too ill to go. It was a very good ball, at first I was rather bored, as I could get no partners – but, afterwards, I danced nearly all. Danced three times with a Miss Porter who was slightly shocked at finding herself dancing the third dance in rotation with me – however I quieted her scruples.

Had a most interesting letter from my outfitter – who desired to see the colour of my money, an odd request certainly.

The day before yesterday, when at the hospital paying a visit to Price – ran into the Admiral and his daughter. They were both most gracious to me.

Heard on Monday from my Father, who likes his appointment and from Russie and my dearest Annie, the latter is very happy and deserves to be so, for, I do not know a nicer girl in the Kingdom. Last night, dined with the G-s. The Uncle is still very bad and at dinner was taken very ill, by rheumatism and pains all over. He had to be put into a hot bath and put to bed.

Afterwards I accompanied my gay aunt to the Opera and on arriving there found two of the Miss Paynters and Dr Paynter sitting in box. Well, it was Sappho, rather a nice opera and I anticipated coming away somewhat the wiser, about the music etc., but not a bit of it – We all chatted, laughed, joked, until we must have made our neighbours pretty nigh mad. I know one mighty personage was quite abashed, and slunk out of sight, at seeing such a broad-side of glasses levelled at him. I enjoyed myself however and must go another night to see the Opera.

To-night, after keeping day duty and dining on board, went over and had a chat with the Shaws and played with the girls at cards. Mrs G. and Ethel, passed the ship, paying a visit to Harmony Row.

Find I am allowing my Journal to fall dreadfully behind – so I shall have to con over what I have been doing during the last week – to begin with:

Saturday last, went over to the Shaws after dinner, found they were going to the Opera with Comdr Adams of the Daphne. I was asked to go, so I accepted and went with them . It was Ruy-Blas and was pretty good. Mrs Shaw went fast to sleep during the whole performance.

Sunday dined with the Gilbards after going to evening service at the Barracca Chapel.

Tuesday. Rode out with my Aunt to Sliema, heard the band playing and saw the notables of Malta – dined with the G-s. Heard from home – Meta dreadfully insulted at being called by her Christian name, by Tom Triggs.

Wednesday After keeping day duty and dining on board, went with Mrs G. to the Opera – saw Sappho – next night.

Thursday Dined with Capt. and Lady Agneta Montagu – four of us in all, a very pleasant conversation, did not flag in the least. Went to the Opera to see Sappho, with the lady’s brother – by name Yorke. Such have been my little doings during the last few days, with the exception of making calls etc.

The Captain has not been behaving himself at all in proper form lately – and the consequence is a little coolness has sprung up between the W.R.O. and him. The ship is looking most charming, newly painted and cleaned just out of the dockyard hands – and she looks a perfect little yacht.

Spent last night with the Shaws, had great fun with the girls. This forenoon the Captain officiated as Chaplain, Lady Agneta being Vice-Chaplain. I came to the conclusion after Service was over, that it was nothing more or less, than playing at Church.

Last night went to a Club Ball – taking Mrs Gilbard and Mrs Haldane. It was a very pleasant dance, a moderate amount of people being there – very few pretty faces, for they have lost all the charms that a summer’s stay in England had given them and have not picked up that delightfully dissipated look that a girl wears, during the middle and ending of a season. Made Miss Clark’s acquaintance. She is a capital dancer. Miss Y. was there looking like a bird hopping off her perch.

The Jumna outward bound was in, and the Opera was crowded with officers (military). This morning the Malabar homeward bound came in. The Jumna sailed, as did also the Daphne and Wizard. Our worthy Captain had evidently had a restless night – for he was not in the most amiable of moods on coming aboard and let out all round.

I got no letters from home, and was consequently disappointed but I daresay some excuse may be found for them, as they were in the middle of shifting down etc.

Mrs G chose such a very pretty lace parasol cover for me, which I intend sending home to Annie for a wedding and wish I could send something more – Money, what a dreadful thing it is. I find I no sooner take it with one hand, than I hand it over with the other, to some interesting individual – but as I had only two hours and a half sleep last night, I shall cry – hold! enough! and go, turn in.

Yesterday, was a most disagreeable day, blowing and raining. Dined ashore, and went to the Opera for an hour. Saw Linda di Chamounix, then went on with Mrs G to the ball at the Porters. Found the place crammed full of people. It was a very pleasant dance – was quite disgusted with one girl, who was outrageously slangy.

Been on duty all day, and how it is blowing a Gregale. Sent down the Top.glt.yds. with the watch and short time ago placed an anchor watch – the sea beginning to get up and the anchor may be required. A great many small ships, schooners and such like came in during the afternoon – too much for them outside I suppose. Bent sails this morning and considering they were nearly all new, did not make such a bad job of it.

Yesterday, I went round to Sliema in the flag ship’s four oared gig – steering her, did me all the good in the world, as during the preceding night I had vomited no less than five times and was also attacked by diarrhoea and consequently pulled down considerably. Mrs Byles lunched on board to-day with Laprimandaye, Cook and I also lunching Mrs Byles, was much amused with Laprimandaye’s (what a long name) monkey which he got the other day. It is a most amusing monkey, full of tricks etc. She has established quite a funk in our small page [?].

Fair wind this N. Easter for the Malabar which sailed last Thursday morning.

Lunched with Capt. Douglas, Wednesday, and he kindly took charge of Annie’s lace Veil for me. Met on board Gilpin, the Pay Master, an old shipmate of mine – he took some letters for me.

Yesterday – Thursday, I rode out with my Aunt, on a horse, just purchased by Uncle George. We rode out to the race-course and it coming on to drizzle slightly. My Aunt was walking her horse up to the Grand Stand for shelter, on an incline, 6 ft perpendicular. As she got to the top, the horse turned broadside on and began backing and over he went and then began a series of plungings, rearings and rollings, that it is a perfect wonder that Mrs G. was not killed, but with the exception of a great fright and a few bruises, she escaped without injury. I never could have believed she would have come off so free from injury.

I was most thankful when I saw her standing up and talking. I had slipped off my horse at once and rushed to the spot and my horse immediately took charge and scampered off – all over the race course and my feelings can be easily imagined at seeing this new purchase kicking his heels all over the place.

Of course, after this accident to my Aunt, our ride was finished, but to jog home slowly, which after my horse was caught, we did.

I came off, shifted and went ashore again dining with the Gilbards, and went to the Opera afterwards to a stall – Linda di Chamounix being the opera. It was most charming – the Prima donna who has a moderately fair voice – acted very nicely and quite fetched me down to the ground. The buffo and baritone were both very good – and I enjoyed myself very much.

Yesterday afternoon went up to the Gilbards, and borrowed their chestnut; could get no one to accompany me for a ride, so rode out by myself round the head of the Grand Harbour and down past the creeks to Bighi, where I called on Eastcott. Walked my horse into his yard behind through the house – and was introduced to Mrs Eastcott, who seems a nice quiet person. They have two very nice little children.

Leaving my horse there, I walked down to the Minters and introduced myself to Dr Minter, who in turn introduced me to his wife and daughter, did not pay a very long visit – and rode back again to Valetta, getting back about five, having been away three hours. Had 5 o’clock tea, came on board to dinner.

Mr Keeble, Scripture Reader, called alongside about 7 o’clock, having most kindly volunteered to show me over the Homes and Institutes in the Three Cities.

First, we went to the new Home in Floriana kept by a Sergeant and his wife and kept in beautifully clean order. The wife being busily engaged in making good wholesome cake for some of the Caledonia’s ship’s coy. It was very good, as she insisted on my tasting it. The Sergeant took us all over the house, and the comfort and pleasantness of everything quite surprised me. The beds looked so nice and clean and the fire in the reading room so comfortable, with all the late papers and the men smoking round the fire. I felt very much inclined to come up and spend an evening there myself. There was an Harmonium in a separate room for anyone that liked to use it. Dinners, breakfasts, lunches etc can be got at most moderate prices. The place did not seem over crowded, which I conclude is from its not being well known.

We then walked into the Valetta Institute, which I shall not describe – it being much the same on principle as the Home – crossing the water, we went to the Institutes, viz: the Bormla one instituted by a Scripture reader – Mr Holmes, who married the Countess of Effingham. It pays worse than either of the other two, but, it is a most comfortable place for the men to go to, much better, a hundred times, than the pot shops.

Bidding Mr Keeble goodnight, on my way off, I dropped into the Shaws, found Dr Shaw much better. Mrs Shaw, his sister, dining at the Keys. Spent a couple of hours there, with the girls and Dr Shaw and bade goodnight on Mrs Shaw’s coming in, about 11 o’clock.

Just after, I had turned in – a Gregale came on very suddenly and it has been blowing ever since, and prevented me from going to the Barracca and dining with the Gilbards. I have never seen such bad weather at Malta before, at any rate keep on so continuously, for, for the last fortnight, it has been raining and blowing with little intermission.

Tuesday morning we got up steam and proceeded out of harbour, meeting the boat with mails in, outside. Got our bag, and I was very disappointed at not getting a letter from Home, this making the third mail running, that has not brought me any letters from Home. I don’t know why I have not heard.

Our orders were, to stay out till the 22nd if we liked, using steam only to go round Target and in and out of harbour, with leave to put into Syracuse, for a couple of days, if we could do so, getting a fair wind. However, not having a fair wind, we steamed round to the back of the island, fired our ammunition away and made sail – had a nice breeze to beat against and sailed into Grand Harbour next day – so ended our shooting trip to Syracuse.

After shipping dogs and Kirkness – that night, I went to the Opera with the Gilbards, saw Linda di Chaminoux next day.

Thursday. Uncle George giving me a mount – rode out to Sliema with Laprimandaye to hear the band. Found there a very meagre attendance, and the weather looking very gloomy, we came back, had 5 o’clock tea, he came on board, and I dined ashore.

Christmas is past and over and a very good job too – for on board a ship, jollity always, or nearly always, degenerates into drunken license.

Christmas Eve I had promised to spend with the Shaws, taking them out to Civita Vecchia to hear High Mass in the Cathedral there. After dining with the Gilbards that evening, I went over to the Shaws and at half past nine o’clock, four of us started in a close carriage, Mrs Shaw, two Miss Shaws and myself. It immediately began to pour, but we could afford to laugh at the weather, securely covered and plentifully supplied with rugs, wrap-cloaks, and I know not what.

After an hour and a half’s drive, which passed most pleasantly, we reached Civita Vecchia, getting out at Purvis’s quarters to take tea – he is stationed out here and belongs to the 87th – found a large party here, consisting of Col, Major, and Mrs Stevenson – the Weirs and other people. After resting a short time went out and we crossed over to the Cathedral and listened to the Mass, which began about 11.30. I must confess, I was very disappointed – the music was nothing extraordinary – in fact one could not hear very much, as we had to stand, or sit some way off. When the sermon began we made for Purvis’s and had a very good supper, the same people being there as were before at tea.

After supper, we again went back to Cathedral and whilst there, Kirkness introduced us all to some Canon, I forget his name. He showed us a magnificent framework for a painting, placed in front of an altar, solid silver with great bunches of golden pomegranates and grapes on it – his brother and himself had given it to the Cathedral. The original one having been stolen by the French in 1798.

About 1.30 we started on our homeward voyage and drove into Bormla about 3.15 am.

Christmas Day. Imbibed some chocolate and fetched off to the ship at 4 – turned out at 5 am Christmas Day – it being my day duty – felt rather tired. The Ship was fairly dressed with green stuff. After hearing prayers read by the Captain, we all walked round the lower deck which was very well fitted up with chandeliers, flags, mottoes and what was more to the purpose, plum–pudding and all other sorts of indigestible stuff. Before I came off the deck, I think I had tasted pieces of pudding from about sixteen messes. We then had lunch, which was rather a good one, as we anticipated Lady Agneta, and Mrs Byles lunching with us – but, the weather which had been very rainy and gloomy up till 11 am had frightened them from coming off.

I took a stretch off the land for a couple of hours, leaving the deck in charge of Sir Roger Tichborne an enormous stuffed figure made up by the men – and brought aft by the Quartermaster of the Watch – to do duty. Getting Cook to look out, I made for the shore to eat my Christmas dinner with the Gilbards. Found Capt. and Mrs Haldane there – we had a very good dinner. Ethel was delighted with the fan I gave her. After dinner we sat round the fire and chatted.

Tuesday – (the following day) we shifted ship up to No 4 buoy, the boats of the squadron vainly endeavouring to tow us. We had to warp her up – and it was no light work, there being a good stiff Easterly wind blowing.

Wednesday, I dined with the Gilbards, and went to the Engineers. Theatricals with them afterwards – Mrs Gilbard having been asked to act only five days before in consequence of Mrs Hillyard having gone sick.

I went through the green room, and was turned out by Miss Porter and then into the theatre, where I got a capital place. The first piece was called Court Cards and Miss Porter looked and acted so charmingly – spoke in the prettiest way imaginable – she was evidently born with a good talent for acting. Mrs Porter was also very good – as was Col Porter. Mrs Gilbard had to act Maid of Honour and knew her part well and did well considering the short notice given her. It was most kind of her taking a part that did not the least suit her. Miss Porter was applauded vociferously. The extravaganza was also very good. The Happy Man Miss Porter the only lady in it, looked in this piece most charming. Captain Hinde who took Paddy Murphy did it to perfection. The only fault was that the brass band was too much – it made too much noise – but, I enjoyed myself very much indeed.

Thursday night – I dined with the Shaws and went with Dr & Mrs Shaw – the only difference was that Miss Porter looked and acted still prettier.

Today – Friday – I have been making a round of calls. Mrs Verney was very kind and told me to be sure and drop into luncheon any day I liked, so I shall do so. She said, she had seen all our festivities from her house as she looked right down on the vessel – (from Floriana).

This evening managed to lose a game of billiards to Chapman – he regularly walked over the ground. By the bye poor Major Brown’s funeral took place this afternoon, which I attended. Tomorrow my tea party comes off.

The last day of the old year, spent on board the ship entirely, with the exception of taking the Church party to the Lord Clyde. She looks very nice indeed, plenty of room in her. Met Mr and Mrs Byles there.

Yesterday my tea party came off and I think went off successfully. At first I thought it would be a failure as although it was Saturday, everything should have been in order by 4 pm as it usually is but, unfortunately a lot of extra work had to be done, staying topmasts afresh, getting screw up and down.

About four o’clock – Mrs Shaw, Nina and Gertrude Shaw came in a dyco – and I took them down into the Captain’s cabin, sat them down – as I had obtained the use of his cabin.

Well, Miss Jeanie (the monkey) came down one of the skylights and some one casting it off, it came into Mrs S-s lap, and being frightened did what it ought not to have done. Stevens ran off and I, divining what had happened ran on deck, told some one to come down and then asked them into the W.R. at once. It annoyed me most fearfully.

Tea, cake and all the appurtenances were brought in – albums, papers hauled out. Mrs Byles, Mrs Gilbard next came bringing Ethel with them. Brought them into W.R. and there we all had a grand tea-fight. Laprimandaye, Cook, Eastcott, Hamilton, Stevens and myself entertaining our six guests. After chatting, and looking over the cabins – they took their departure – the only unlucky incident being Miss Jeanie’s naughtiness.

Saw my half yearly report and feel very disgusted at what he put down to “taking me as a Lieut or No”, as I don’t think he has dealt fairly with me by any means.

1872

3 January – Wednesday

21Getting into the New Year. The first night went to the Ball at the Palace given by Governor. Went with a batch of fellows from the Mess, and found ourselves much too early, so we occupied ourselves in looking through the corridors which are magnificent – but I shall leave all descriptions of the Palace for another time. About a quarter to ten, the people began to pour in, so, we thought it time to make our bow, which we did, and then wandered off immediately to get partners. Cook, Bowen and I rushed off to the PMO’s and asked them for a dance. The youngest told Bowen it was very early to ask for a dance, but she would give him the first – in fact I think she, what is commonly said, sat on him – and in consequence next day his opinion of her was that she was not perfect.

I engaged myself to the middle one of the three for a waltz, the one I like best of the lot – and soon filled up my card. Miss Ommanney giving me the last on the card, for reasons I know well why. Lady Agneta after a lot of persuasion, gave me a round dance – which however never came off – as she departed this life too soon. The Lovely Vision danced also with me – the first time that I have danced with her since last doing so, at St Elmo, Southsea, four years ago.

The supper was served in the Armoury. I hardly like calling it a supper for it was given on a most economic scale, and I should think Mr Childers must have been Sir Patrick Grant’s guest some time or other, and had been putting him up to a move, or, two. The liquor, of course, I can’t report on except on hearsay and from that I don’t think he desired to win a name for keeping good wines. I came away early about quarter to two.

Next day I went out for a ride on Uncle George’s chestnut and rode round the head of Grand Harbour to Isola – called upon the Shaws and found them just going out. On my return voyage was caught most beautifully in a heavy shower of rain, and got wet through – passed a young lady with a groom, who both looked nice and wet – and then the Ommanneys who were driving and I fancied rather laughed at my miserably wet appearance.

Went on board, shifted and dined with the Gilbards. After dinner on my way off dropped into the Opera and saw the second act of Ruy-Blas. Last night, went to the Opera with Bowen and Aldrich – the opera being – Il Matrimonio Segreto.

15 January – Monday

Been at sail drill all the forenoon.

Last night dined with Hamilton at the Gilbards. Had a very pleasant dinner indeed. The Mail came in during the afternoon – and I had a budget of letters – Meta, Lily, Harriett and Theresa Mann writing me. Meta sent me out sprigs of mistletoe, myrtle and holly as a reminiscence of Christmas. Lunched on board the Growler with Wynyard and Dobbyn to meet the Shaws. Mrs Shaw felt very sea-sick, and was obliged to run away and sit on deck, which rather spoilt the affair – however, the waves would not be commanded.

The Saturday before, Hamilton and I rode round the head of the harbour and paid a visit to the Shaws and Eastcotts – found the latter were out. Hamilton had a fiery little beast, and I had to exchange horses with him. I had no sooner got on him, than he began playing his pranks, kicking, rearing and breaking.

The evening we spent at the Shaws and danced, sang and romped with the girls.

Last Wednesday – the 10th inst. – the Admiral gave his second At Home to which I went. It was most successful, the host and hostess most agreeable and everything very nice. Capital supper – I partook of some iced quail which was delicious.

18 January – Thursday

We had our inspections to-day, which seemed to me a great farce. Anyone could see that the ship had been painted up only a few days previously for the occasion. She looked very well, but, I don’t like her so well as I did the last commission, although there is no doubt, a good many improvements have been effected. The Admiral made a little speech after it was all over – saying all sorts of pretty things, but he said less than he did the last time.

Yesterday was a nice fine day – and the races came off during the afternoon. I was unfortunate enough to lose a lot of gloves – in fact at this minute I was never in a greater muddle than I am at present – no money and lots of debts. In the evening, dined with the Gilbards and went to see the Opera, Il Matrimonio Segreto which was very well performed – Cuiti – Cucchi – Levi – Conti – Proni and Boncore acting.

The Briton came in a few days back.

21 January – Sunday

Thursday last our inspection came off and it went off satisfactorily – though to my mind everything was got up all at once and looked too new.

Yesterday I strolled ashore and looked at the Cricket Match played between the English officer (Garrison and Navy) versus Irish and Scotch – the former went out for over 200 runs, one man Adams making about 120, or 130. In the evening went to see Un Ballo in Maschera, Cuiti acting the page, she looked very nice.

The Mail also came in and I had a letter from Russie and my Father – the latter a most depressing letter – his letter made me feel quite miserable.

The Orontes came in Monday afternoon and I found a great chum of mine on board, Tommy Primrose.

Next day, Tuesday. He boarded the Rapid early with a fellow called Wall and insisted on my immediately showing him over Valetta and its show places. We proceeded ashore, after I had shifted into my plain togs – and after going into several bootmakers shops – we fetched to the Palace and being taken in tow by an attendant, he first took us over the Council Chamber which was hung round with very fine Gobelin tapestry, it having been presented at different times to the Grand Masters. There were also some old marble tables there.

From the Council Chamber, after traversing long corridors, paved with marble of different colours, and lined with suits of armour, we came to the armoury, a very fine long room and stowed as full of armour as it possibly could be. There were many curious old things to be seen – there was one gigantic suit of armour – some of swords secured long and unwieldy, but on handling found them beautifully balanced and easily handled. Primrose and I had the audacity to seat ourselves in the late Grand Master’s coach, in which Buonaparte also had ridden, when he paid his visit here.

After doing the Palace – we proceeded to Marich’s, had a game of billiards with Tommy, beat him by two points, and then we all had lunch – after which, and the better to digest, we rode, and went out to Sliema to hear the band there. I spoke to the Ommanneys and Paynters, I had a beast of a horse.

24 January – Wednesday

Tommy Primrose dined with me and in the evening, went to the Gilbards’ box at the opera. Saw Othello which I thought very tame and lacked spirit – had the pleasure of meeting Capt. and Mrs Crawford there – paid a visit to several boxes.

25 January – Thursday

Borrowed Uncle George’s chestnut and rode out with Primrose, Carpenter and Wall towards Civita Vecchia. Wall found his horse going lame – so I advised him to gallop back, as we were only in Floriana and then, after changing his horse, gallop after us. He followed the first part of my advice, but as we did not see anything more of him that day, I can’t say if he did the last part. We went out slowly and got out there about 3 o’clock or a little later. Went over the Cathedral, where they were having prayers. It looked very nice, the sides being hung round with a sort of cloth, rich red. Next we went down into St Paul’s Cave, where they said he lived three months – and next we went into the catacombs and followed the leader for ten minutes. They are not to be compared to those at Naples. After a lot of haggling about the money to be paid to the fellows, we got off and rode back pretty smartly.

Bidding goodbye to my companions – I trotted to the stables, returned Tommy (the Chestnut) – had tea with Mrs Gilbard, who then sang the Storm, Island girls I leave, and airs from several of the Operas – one from Un Ballo in Maschera – the one the page sings.

Dining there, I made for the ship and after getting on board Thursday evening, went to the Key’s Ball. It was dreadfully crowded – Met a good many people I knew, left early, about 1 o’clock, feeling very tired. There was a capital supper.

27 January – Saturday

My duty day and the order for my discharge to flagship came on board. I asked Montagu if he had said anything to the Admiral about my going – he said – “I told him, I was sorry you were going etc” – but that the Admiral said – “I only lent him for 4 months and he has now been 10 months, so it is but fair, he should give some one else a chance” and in consequence Basil Napier and I are going to change.

28 January – Sunday

Dined with the Gilbards, meeting Captain Perry there after attending the Barracca Chapel.

A miserably wet day, raining as steadily as it possibly could. About 3 o’clock I got my traps together and turned over to the Flagship – and soon shook down into my place. It is a great come down, after keeping a Lieut watch doing his duty and living in a W.R, to do a Midshipman’s duty and come down to G.R. (Gunroom) fare. A general Mess spoils one for a G.R. life again.

30 January – Tuesday

Went ashore early in the afternoon and went up to the G.A. after calling with my Aunt on Mrs Byles. Borrowed the chestnut horse, Tommy, and rode by myself round to the Minters, paid them a visit and had tea there chatting there for about an hour, then rode back at a smart pace, it being late.

Dined ashore and then after dinner took myself off to the Opera to see Il Barbiere de Seville taking myself up amongst the gods. It was great fun – the Smythes regularly shrieking with laughter and making the most dreadful row. Two of the PMO’s spotted me, which rather annoyed me. The opera was very good. After the Opera I betook myself to the Club – met Phipps and Crozier, had a long yarn with them, and dine with them to-night – Wednesday 31st.

2 February – Friday

Yesterday afternoon the Lord Clyde gave a dance from 2–6 pm. Three or four of us went about 2.30 and found only half-a-dozen ladies present. However we began dancing. About 3 o’clock the people began flocking in and at last the place was quite full. Every thing was very nice, except the deck, the principal part of the performance. It was damp and quite sticky and one soon got tired of dancing – as your feet began to stick to the deck. Two ladies lost the heels off their shoes, but I believe they were eventually found and nailed on again by the ship’s bootmaker, who I doubt ever having handled such a delicate thing before as a lady’s shoe. The PMO’s were in great force and I’m beginning to like the middle one. The ladies dresses as a rule were short, and lot of the leg was shewn, which several of my partners drew my attention to.

4 February – Sunday

Took the Roman Catholics to Chapel. They go in at 10 o’c. and come out at 11 o’c.

Yesterday, I was busy helping to write invitations for our dance Thursday next and went ashore with White to see about their all being sent. We have asked between 3 and 400 to come off – so it is to be hoped it will be a fine day for it. It is rather unfortunate that there should be a Club soirée the evening before.

8 February – Thursday

Tuesday last. Paid a visit to the Exhibition of Pictures at Admiral Yelverton’s house. There were not many exhibitors, but what there were, were very good. Practised all the afternoon on the piano.

Wednesday – Went ashore and made numerous calls and also practice on the piano. In the evening went to the Opera, saw Traviata.

Thursday – Very tired, with a bad neck – our dance came off this afternoon and was most successful, everything went off very well. Refreshments, decorations and other necessaries, all being looked after by different fellows.

The Refreshments were very good – we had of them a superabundance, for I find not much is eaten at an afternoon dance – for the good people have either just finished their luncheon and are alike bladders blown out – impossible to be blown out further, or are afraid of spoiling their dinners.

About 400 people were asked and at about 3 o’c. they began honouring us with their presence and boat loads after boat loads flocked alongside. I had a piece of blue ribbon on, the badge of office – and did my duty well (self praise is no recommendation). A good many of the other stewards were so struck with some of the young ladies they took aft, that they did not leave them with that promptitude and zeal for duty, they should have done.

The old dowagers were the people that annoyed me, for I asked nearly all of those I met at the gangway, if they would not like to sit on the poop and survey the merry throng dancing on the quarterdeck – backing up my invitation, by all sorts of cunningly devised inducements. But for some reason or other, whether to get in the way – which I don’t believe; or to look after their daughters better, for the girls here are great flirts – which, I do believe; they would persist in remaining down below.

The deck under Le Strange’s superintendence was capital – such a contrast to the Lord Clyde’s (comparisons are odious so I hold). We had green stuff everywhere – garlands hung round the quarterdeck both sides and numerous flower pots all over the deck, where they would not be in the way. The awning being spread and tastefully covered with foreign ensigns, under the Commander’s and White’s directions.

About 350 came off, but we did not find the place inconveniently crowded. I danced once and showed a girl over the place below and otherwise was busy running about looking after people. Mrs Ommanney asked me to a child’s tea fight tomorrow, but my neck will prevent my going, as I have a regular large boil.

10 February – Saturday

Yesterday, heard from my mother, such a kind letter.

In the evening, as I had a ticket sent off to me for the Opera – I took advantage of it and went – especially as our new tenor Harvey was to come out in Favorita and although my boil was by no means pleasant – I went off and found myself placed next Mrs Lewin, a dear old cup of tea, to whom I lent my book, and she never returned it. Harvey sang very well and prettily, but his voice was not nearly strong enough and his acting was nothing. The House was crammed full, lots of ladies in the stalls.

My unfortunate neck began paining me dreadfully, so that I could hardly turn my head. Mrs L. noticed it and after my telling her what was the matter – she immediately began a long and horribly sickening discourse on cutting, poulticing etc, which nearly sent me off my chump. The opera was very nicely put on – the scenery well painted.

11 February – Sunday

Feel much better to-day, as I let the doctor slaughter me last night in the most cruel fashion. Saw the Gilbards pass by in one the Caledonia’s cutters. Heard of the promotion, which leaves a place in the Helicon vacant.

16 February – Friday

The day before yesterday, Stopford and I rode round to St Marguerite Lines and looked at a review being held by Gen. Sir F. Seymour – of four out of the six regiments here. There were several ladies out there – and they did the usual movements skirmishing etc.

Stopford’s horse wanted to fight a mule there and began rearing and kicking, to the discomfort of two companies of soldiers who were marching along the road in single file. He had the honour of stopping two companies unaided by any-one else, bar the quadruped. We next paid Mrs Eastcott a visit and imbibed bohea. Last night, dined with the Gilbards, having played on the piano all the afternoon and paid Mrs Byles a long visit.

18 February – Sunday

Heard, a few days back, about Lord Mayo being assassinated by a convict in the Andaman Islands – who said he was inspired by God to do it. It is a very sad affair. The Antelope, if she is ready will go to Suez to fetch Lady Mayo.

Last night spent the evening at the Shaw’s. Sang a little and then played bezique. Had a letter from James asking me to accept the gun which, I had refused – so I told him I would take it.

Am very glad to see such a batch of promotions come out – and also the new Order in Council about promotion, and Sub-Lieuts to retire after 3 years and must retire when arrived at the age of 40. I suppose old Goschen had a fit of facetiousness on him, when he put in the last order.

19 February – Monday

Last night after attending evening session at the Barracca Chapel, dined with the Gilbards, Major and Mrs Russell (of 13 Huss.) and Capt. Buchanan dining there also. We had a capital dinner and it passed over very pleasantly – smoked in the drawing room until after 12 o’c.

All this afternoon I was going about in the barge, taking the Admiral, Prince and Princess Bourbon about, and did not get back till 6 o’c.

21 February – Wednesday

Had a practice on the piano in the afternoon – and then accompanied Mrs G to do a little shopping. Spent the evening on board, doing French – as it is my determination to acquire the thorough knowledge of that language. My old instructor M. Bucci being sick, has been unable to give me lessons, so I have been at a disadvantage as yet in not having anyone to air my French on.

This afternoon was sent away in the 2nd Launch with boys and Ord. seamen, to practise them in boat sailing.

There has been nothing but tinkering and hammering going on all day. For hardly had the noise made by the turn-tables, made a start for departure, than it was discovered that the slide, carriage and gun, being raised, consequent on the deck being raised for the turntable fittings, that the four ports also required altering, as the gun could not be elevated and they have to cut the ports, making them higher. This will cause no little expense and trouble and also no little noise.

So back comes row with redoubled fury.

23 February – Friday

Yesterday forenoon, went out sailing in the Launch, outside the harbour and had great fun, making the Ord seamen and boys heave her to. In the afternoon, with White I went ashore and had tea with Mrs Gilbard. Ethel favoured us with a couple of songs. It rained nearly all afternoon.

As we came down found we had missed the Mess boat, and seeing the cutter coming in, we waited for her, and had the pleasure of helping a lot of ladies through the mire into their carriages. Dacres had been giving a luncheon party and report says Miss K was kissed by someone.

Heard this forenoon from my Mother, who told me Uncle George Hookey had gone mad and was going to be put into an asylum. It will be dreadful for poor Harriett and the rest of the family. I hardly know what they will do, it will occasion more expense to my family. They tell me that my Grandparents go up to London again, not liking West Country, the rainy weather not agreeing with them.

My Father has had to go on the half credit system – which means paying half the premium and interest of 5 per cent on the other half for 7 years and then all arrears must be paid up.

Major and Mrs Russell went off today – heard rather a good yarn from the former it ran thus – Breakfast at a country house, well filled with people. The daughter of the hostess (aged 19), when a dead silence occurred, sitting at the further end of the table from her mother, said “Mama, can you tell me what Colonel Hamley meant last night when he met me on the stairs, blew out my candle and then kissed me”? – As may be imagined Col Hamley beat a rapid retreat from the house, as soon as possible – being utterly put to the rant by this girl and very plucky of her it was too. I should think Col Hamley did not try the same thing again for some little time.

The Admiral coming on board this afternoon I took the opportunity of giving him Col Mann’s photograph and showing him Theresa Mann’s. He was much pleased and we had a chat together about going to a small ship. I told him I had no desire to leave the flagship.

24 February – Saturday

The Helicon sailed this evening with Admiral Yelverton and Miss B – so she hoisted his flag and we having struck it, hoisted Admiral Key’s at the Mizzen.

I see Captain Jink’s name has again appeared in the papers.

25 February – Sunday

Spent the day on board, my boils still hanging about my neck. They are like the Gorgons’ head, cutting it off, another appeared, drive my boil away, back another comes – so, then I’m unable to go either to the Barracca, or to the Gilbards.

27 February – Tuesday

Troubled with the plague yet, yesterday more painful than ever. Last night could get no sleep, and paced the deck. Very fortunately Wood come off late about 12.30 and he kindly lanced it for me, which eased me of the pain very much.

Was unable to take my French lesson, so wrote to M. Bucci telling him I was unwell, a concoction of which, raised my pride in myself as a French scholar up at least half a dozen rungs of the ladder. He wrote me back and like most foreigners writes very badly.

We struck lower yards and topmasts last night.

Yesterday morning read Harriett’s and Fanny’s sad letters, about their Father. It is a very sad business altogether and what my cousins will do I don’t know. I wrote Harriett a few words of condolence and sympathy. If they can get a curate to do duty, they may save some of the living – though, whether he will be allowed to do duty for a clergyman that is in an asylum – is very doubtful.

29 February LEAP YEAR – Thursday

Had my first French lesson in French last night from M. Bucci – after which I proceeded to Manich’s, meeting Markham there. We then went to the Opera, up amongst “Ye Gods” – Linda di Chamounix being the Opera – Mr Sylvester singing a song called Come into the garden Maud – he has a fine voice, but mouths his words tremendously, singing as if he had a potato in his mouth. I led off several encores, but I don’t think I shall favour the gallery with my presence again.

This forenoon took the 2nd Launch out sailing, but, as there was little wind and a good deal of sea, I remained in Bighi Bay, beating about, picking up breakers etc. etc. The Dryad and Jumna have both sailed, it being fine weather – which is very fortunate for the Lord Clydes as their dance comes off this afternoon to which I am unable to go, as my neck is not well yet, and I keep poultices on.

1 March – Friday

Manning and arming boats kept me pretty well employed all the forenoon. It was rather a sight in its way – between 30 and 40 boats – 11 with guns and 8 with rockets. Outside the harbour we fired blank cartridge rockets, the latter looked on being fired off making such a fine curve and then twisting.

On arriving aboard – found a letter from my charming sister Meta, which was a great treat, as I get so few from her. She told me my Father had adopted Bella, one of Mr Hookey’s children.

Saturday. Stayed in the house all the afternoon.

4 March – Monday

Yesterday took the Roman Catholics to Chapel. Stayed on board during the afternoon, listening to Mlle. Cuiti and Harvey singing, they having lunched in the W.R. with Le Strange, who seems quite to have gone mad about these singers.

In the evening went to the Barracca, with White and Prothero. After the service dined at the Gilbards meeting Capt. Salmon there. Heard more about the Hookeys. The Gilbards expressed their sorrow at being at Malta, and unable to help them, but when I see pounds worth of lace bought, I find myself asking whether they have tried to do anything.

Capt. Salmon told some capital yarns about Arkwright. One was – he was talking to Mrs B. and said “th-th-th- the cho-cho-ens are always raising your – r – etc. expectations and disappointing them” – Mrs B. – said “How”? He said (stuttering) “Because they always seem as if they were going to have children and never do” – “Oh!” said Mrs B. – “you naughty man – Fie” – he replied – “I assure, I did not do it.”

And another was – Being asked to dinner by the Governor’s Military Secretary who gave much better dinners than the Governor – Arkwright was asked where he was going to dine – He said “Oh! in the servants hall” – meaning it as a satire on the Governor’s dinner. Mrs W. heard of it afterwards, so one night – when she met him again at an evening party – she tried to cut him, but he came and sat down beside her – so she turned round towards him and yawned right in his face. He laughed and said “Hah! Ha! Ha! Capital – two hind ones stopped with gold, like mine.”

5 March – Tuesday

Heard from Russie, who told me the particulars about the Hookeys. It comes very hard on my Father – and I must say I think some of my other relatives might come forward and help a little. Mr Hookey, as far as I can make out, is a thorough scoundrel and deserves to be flogged, refusing to do service – and then made to get a curate. He will not help his fine children – or give them a farthing. So my father will have to help them all and in fact provide for them; besides having adopted one outright, so now instead of four sisters, I have five. I wish the G-s would help, I should think they could easily, if they liked to deny themselves a very few luxuries.

7 March – Thursday

Today we had a visit from no less a personage than General Sherman and President Grant’s son – who is in the 4th Cavalry – and his suite. Went all over the ship, at which they were very pleased – especially the guns and engine room. Gen. Sherman is tall and wiry looking, wearing a grizzly beard, cut short. Grant a heavy looking fellow about five and twenty – who seemed a great boor. Told me he disliked all music excepting nigger minstrelsy.

9 March – Saturday

Lunched with the Gilbards – and after lunch went with Mrs G. and Ethel to make a call on Mrs Mann. Found her at home – and like her very much. She kindly told me she would be very delighted to see me at any time that I came next.

After going to the Church and leaving Mrs G. there I took Ethel about and then called for Mrs G. and proceeded in company with her to Mrs Payton. Whilst there Mrs Rich, Mrs Goodenough and Miss Randolph came in, and for about ten minutes, I had a very pleasant chat with the latter. Then making a departure with Miss Payton in Coy, we cruised about the town. After a short time I parted company and came on board to dig at French and suffer pain from my boils. They are like the Campbell’s coming – I suppose one of them will soon be coming. Wrote to Russie.

11 March – Monday

For the last five or six days, it has been blowing, continuously from the SE and E, varying between the two – raising quite a sea outside and a swell inside – ships rolling from 3–5 deg. The air has been filled with minute particles of red sand giving one the idea that a fog was hanging round. The sand remained on our rigging and spars, at places, looking quite brickish red – and when the rain descended as it did once, or twice, it actually appeared as if it was raining mud. The weather was most oppressive and did not make one feel up to much work. We had some heavy drill, shifting Topsail yds. and jib boom – beating the other ships out and out.

A good many steamers went out today, the harbour is quite full – as many as fourteen having entered yesterday.

Last night, after attending the Barracca Chapel, went to dinner with the Gilbards meeting Capt. Salmon and Ward there – the latter seems very yankified and rather behind the age in some ways. I can’t say I took a fancy to him, by any means.

Hear from Meta today.

16 March – Saturday

The day before yesterday we had a large party of ladies off to see some torpedo experiments by Kane and Wilson. The Governor and his lady going off to a lighter moored in mid stream. I went in a skiff with one of the Lieuts, and we pulled round the place, getting in everybody’s way. They were not so successful as they were expected to be – for, they went off at the wrong time.

After witnessing the experiment I landed, leaving my skiff at Custom House, paid a visit to Mrs Byles, found Mrs G. and Mrs Downes there – who had such naughty secrets to tell each other, that I was requested to walk onto the balcony, whilst they were being disclosed.

Dined with the Gilbards that evening, first paying a visit to the Shaws – and made arrangements for taking my Aunt off to the Jumna Saturday – being today.

DEPART MALTA

19 March – Tuesday

Friday last, just as the men had their dinner hour, a signal was made from the Palace to us – to get up steam full speed and prepare for sea. Immediately everything was bustle and carpenters going to the Parlatorio to bring off crutches for boom boats, gear etc. that had been landed. One party away getting provisions (for as it so happened, we had just run short, and were going to send demands in); another party getting steam pinnace off and dockyard gear in the way of blocks, straps etc.

The cause of all this being, that Dundas a Lieut of the Lord Clyde had just arrived in a merchant steamer, reporting the stranding of the Lord Clyde off the NW coast of Pantelleria, whither she had gone to assist a steamer that had run ashore.

Well, after boats were hoisted in, and the Captain had got his orders from Adm. Key, (who proceeded in the Enchantress as hard as he could go) – the Research also going from between the Jumna, which was at the Troopship’s and the shore. Admiral Wodehouse saying it was the finest thing he had seen for a long time.

We went along from 8–10 knots, making sail in the First watch, and considering I did not know a single station, everything went off most creditably.

Saturday forenoon Pantelleria hove in sight and about 10 30 am we saw the Lord Clyde on shore – about 200 yards off a point close to the town of Pantelleria; the merchant steamer being on shore about half a mile further on. We shortened sail, and dropped an anchor SE. of the Lord Clyde, her head being about NW, and veered away to 13 shackles, bringing our stern to within 200 feet of hers. We found that she had landed some tons of stores and provisions already and was busy shoving her coals overboard and getting her guns ready for hoisting out. There was a rumour of throwing them over-board, as no Research with lighter had yet made her appearance.

That afternoon two Bower cables were passed from stern to stern being hove in by the hemp stream – and joined by a slip to some length of our sheet, which were passed on the bight, through the after chain pipes (across the Lower Deck) and then each end taken round the bight and then joined to Bower by the slip, aforementioned.

The Captain said to Adm. Key – “I will get her off in an hour”, but events shewed otherwise. Everything being in readiness, we manned the Capstan well, hove in and went ahead; varying from slow speed to full speed. The L-C appeared quite lively, rolling, but we only slewed her 3 points or so.

The wind having been all day from the SE. blowing fresh – 3 to 4, went down in the evening. During the night, the Research arrived, with the lighter which the L-C got alongside, and the L-C being very lively during the night, we had one more tug, for half-an-hour, 9 30 to 10, but did not move her. Capt. Bythesea came on board, during the Middle Watch. He is to be pitied.

Next day sent a working party of 200 men to L-Clyde to get guns out, heave coals out, etc. – and kept our men employed rigging derricks for hoisting in her guns. The wind this day (Sunday) came from the NW right on our beams and raised quite a swell. The divers went down and reported that she would have to be hauled straight astern – and that her rudder port was gone – and her rudder lying at the bottom – keel all gone. She must be well shaken, for our officers who went on board declared the lower deck could be seen to rise upwards in the middle and the boilers jumped six inches – etc.

Sunday afternoon we made another try having previously laid out stream anchor with hemp sheet attached, on starboard bow (Shorewards) and hauled ourselves a little more in line with her. Went ahead full power and moved the L-C 20 yards. Shortened in on our S.B. and went ahead again, floating the Lord Clyde, weighed and proceeded ahead – but the L-C not slipping her BB. Our starboard towing chain parted and the port one, of course, slipped (being on the bight) splitting the controller in two, on its way out. Very providentially for the L-C our port towing chain caught a rock at the bottom and this with her S.B. which she let go at once kept the L-C from swinging in on the rocks – she remaining broadside on to the wind and sea.

Captain Brandreth without losing a moment steamed round to the L-C’s bow – let go an anchor, veered and took in her starboard sheet as a towing chain – and then after getting our boats in and up – we shortened in, the L-C slipping her BB and weighing her SSW – thus hauling the L-C bow off slowly – her stern being held as beforementioned.

At about 9 00 pm we started leaving the Research behind to pick up anchors, cables, rudder etc and to look after the L-C steam launch, guns, provisions etc.

The Enchantress went back to Malta full speed – Adm. Key hoisting his flag aboard of us. An Italian man of war came in, just as we had got her off, and offered assistance. The wind was from the NE and on our beams, during the night, the Lord Clyde towing on our port quarters in the most wonderful manner – keeping the same position.

Next day Monday – the wind went down, and the L-C began executing the most wonderful evolutions at times towing broadside on, and then flying from one quarter to the other, causing us no little trouble. Very often we had to stop and go astern – to relieve the strain on towing chain, and even then it would grind and tauten out, making one think it would snap every minute. I could not have believed a cable (ours being 2¼ in) could stand the shocks it got.

All the night the same thing was going on, Capt. B never having gone off deck, but temporarily, since having started. The way the L-C behaved was most remarkable. It shows how utterly helpless our ships of war are, with the loss of their rudder. Fore and aft sail was no good, their temporary rudder neither being of any good.

During the night we had veered away on our sheet to the clinch 11 shackles – and she had about same out – so, there was a good scope between the two ships. The wind coming again on the beam, she steered steadily until she got to the harbour mouth when the Hearty was clapped on her port side and although the L-C tried to make a dash now and then at some peaceful steamer, her attempt was always frustrated by Hearty – and at last we both secured to buoys, after some hard work.

Capt. Brandreth, the evening before (Sunday at Stand By Hks)) sounded Still and said “Good days work – very well done.”

Have just heard of the sad accident that happened to the Ariadne’s boat’s crew – it is most sad.

Heard from my Father, Meta and Lily.

24 March – Sunday

Wednesday last and also Thursday still saw me in the list, with huge poultices on most of the time.

Friday – I left the list, that I had been clinging to, most unwillingly, for such a time – and it is to be hoped it is left for ever.

Last night dined at the club with my Uncle – interchanged home news. About 9 o’c. went over to the Shaws and spent the remainder of the evening with them. Came off about 11 o’c. and kept watch until 4 – went with the Roman Catholics this forenoon, and this evening after dinner – went with White and Prothero and to the Barracca Chapel.

27 March – Wednesday

Landed this forenoon with the Army and in marching up, managed in the most careful way to put the whole line out of step, some few times.

Yesterday afternoon paid a visit to the Somerset Dock, where the Lord Clyde is at present and likely to remain for some months longer. I don’t know what the good people of Malta would have done unless they had been provided with something for them to spend their curiosity and energies in looking at, for it being Lent, nothing is going on. When I arrived there, I found a girl’s school walking round the deck, a Sub-Lieut in charge of damsels.

The ship’s stern, having no support, had to be well propped up with shores, showing like a forest – her keel all being gone. They had to place blocks, right along both sides of her bilges. There was very little of her keel left at all – and what was left was forward by the stern. The deadwood aft was more than half gone and her stern post entirely gone – and the bottom part of her body part. Her bilges all showed signs of being chewed up by the rocks and at places, her wooden sheathing, about 8 or 9 in. thick, was quite gone and her frame-work exposed. She leaked at times 3–4 tons a minute. It is said she will take three months to patch her temporarily for sending home to England.

The Wizard came in the day before yesterday. She had been blown away from Pantelleria, leaving an anchor and 50 fms of cable behind. The Defence had lost an anchor and some cable. The Ariadne had got the rudder into deep water and in 15 or 16 fms, the slings carried away, so there is an end to that. I hear the guns went down with the lighter, in harbour.

31 March – Sunday

Thursday last, Prothero and I started for a good walk. Leaving Calcarra Gate at 2 o’c, we struck out from Floriana, taking the road to Malias, the ‘miserables’ bothering us nearly all the way. I never met so many beggars in all my life, such healthy looking beggars too. We found out a capital plan of dodging a ‘miserable’, who came up to us in the road – walking together and towards the ‘miserable’. As soon as he began his whining petition, we suddenly parted asunder and walked one each side, utterly disconcerting the unfortunate, as before he could make up his mind who to ask, we had flown by.

I got some capital ginger beer at Malias. After remaining there about half an hour, we made a detour round the country going close to Civita Vecchia and reaching the ship by 6 o’c.

Good Friday – I dined with Uncle George at the club.

Saturday, the mails came in, and I got a charming photograph of darling Meta – with a letter. Pulled about in a skiff all the afternoon and paid a visit to the Antelope and Vulture, Thos de Hoghton being 1st and only Lieut of her. He is an awfully zealous fellow and fond of work. The ship (Vulture) was looking very nice. Spent the evening at the Shaws.

The Ariadne, Rapid and Defence came in, so we have quite a large fleet here.

Sunday – Took the Roman Catholics ashore and met Willoughby who told me all the late news.

2 April – Tuesday

Dined on board the Ariadne with Willoughby. Their berth is much smaller than ours and not so light. After dinner, Price having joined us, we all went to the Opera and saw Rigoletto, acted.

6 April – Saturday

Last night dined with Jimmy Haye aboard the Ariadne. All this forenoon have been attending the police court, as one of our men got locked up in quod.

11 April – Thursday

Yesterday’s court martial jammed my namesake up into a clinch, dismissing him the service. He is not particularly lively over it, and he has good cause for not being – for with his debts, and no money and little energy, with a great fondness for liquor – I hardly know what he will do. We are getting up in the Mess a small subscription to pay his passage, and mess home for him. It is very sad, and has all been brought on by that cursed drink.

Saturday evening last, I spent with the Shaws. Gertrude is unwell – I rather fancy old Shaw had something to do with her illness.

Tuesday – dined with my cousin Blankley on board the Hibernia and spent a quiet evening.

14 April – Sunday

Friday last went off to the Mail steamer with Uncle George – arranged about his passage, and then we went over to the pontoon that had been launched during the week.

It was built in compartments and the dock (for it is a floating dock) floated about a foot and a half, to two feet, in the water – about 7 feet out of water. It is 340 feet long and about 80 wide. This dock goes between large iron upright girders and when a ship is to be docked the dock is sunk by means of valves in the bottom; one valve filling six compartments. The dock is sunk 30 feet, or to the required depth and the ship is floated in over the sunken dock and between the uprights. The dock is then raised by means of hydraulic power – the beams being placed across the bottom of the dock. The ship takes the centre of the dock and wedges are thrust in under the bilges and ship thus rests on its keel and bilges.

After dining at the Club and smoking a cigar, we went off to the Mail where I wished my Uncle good-bye, with all sorts of kind messages to my Aunt and cousin.

Next morning – Went on board the Malabar. Saw Gilpin and Capt. Douglas and said goodbye to my namesake who is dreadfully cut up – and is also very hard up. One of 12–10 being girls and the father not well off is no joke. We had to help him home – poor fellow.

Heard from my Mother and Meta and a French letter from Russie. Last night, spent at the Shaws. Hamilton coming too. We danced and enjoyed ourselves very much. This evening, attended the Barracca Chapel.

21 April – Sunday

This last week, has been a lazy week, nothing going on, but rifle matches, regattas etc.

Thursday – I went out to the range – and saw the officers shoot and the prizes given away. Byles won the match.

Friday – all the forenoon employed rigging stages for the regatta which came off Friday and Saturday afternoon.

Friday was a splendid afternoon, a clear cool day, wind from the South-West perhaps a trifle too strong for the light boats. The first race was the launches. I went in my launch, the 2nd launch, and steered her, for my coxswain went quite mad with excitement and let the helm look out for itself, which I seeing made for, and stuck to it through the race. We won the 2nd prize.

The men must have been pretty well done up. They started from abreast Magazine Point, down between the Agincourt (moored head and stern) and Valetta, round the fairway buoy and back between the Agincourt and fleet. Then came cutter, gig, dinghy, pinnace and all other races to the number of 20. Our officers winning the officers’ race and copper punt winning the punt race. We had a fair amount of people on board, as had every ship.

The second day it blew a Sirocco, and the weather was most oppressive. This was the sailing day and off we started. Launches first – then pinnaces – (the weather was very oppressive) and all the launches made sail very fast – all sorts of square sails being got up. We had in our launch a top jib studsail, rigged out by a boom – it answered capitally.

Outside the harbour it was very misty and the wind fell away fast. There were two boats outside to round – but by some mistake all the launches ran some two miles past the rounding point – Caledonias leading and (we all led the pinnaces adrift). So the rearmost boat found her mistake out first and came to the wind; it was our 1st launch. In our boat, seeing it was useless drifting about any longer and that we could not possibly win – we downed the sails and pulled in.

Spent the evening with the Shaws, where I found seven other fellows – so it was rather slow.

28 April – Sunday

Tuesday evening Barrow and I went to the Shaws and had music. The day before we had the sailing races over again, our two launches coming in first and second. Dined on Thursday with Jim Barrow, and yesterday afternoon was going to ride in a riding party, but as we were going to have a ships’ regatta, and I had to get my boat ready – I did not go – for which I was not at all sorry. Dined with the Salmons in the evening – and had music afterwards.

We shall lose White who is promoted and Jack Eden, who got poor Mercer’s death vacancy. Hingston going to the Aurora and McAlpine coming here instead.

Jim Barrow dined on board and we went to the Barracca together, afterwards came on board and smoked and yarned. He told me not at all a bad yarn – At Calcutta – in Galatea at a Ball, a Lieut was dancing with a girl and he saw a very fine girl being brought in, so he said to his partner, who is that girl coming in like a frigate under full sail? His partner said “Oh! that is my sister.” Some little time after he was introduced to this girl and asked her for a dance – She looked up at him and said, “Well Mr. – I don’t know whether it is customary for a Lieut to take charge of a frigate, but we will try.”

29 April – Monday

This morning spar drill most execrably done.

This afternoon I went on board the Agincourt and danced away. A very fair amount of people came on board, taking into consideration the gloominess of the weather – the wind etc. Admiral Campbell had a chat with me – and told me he knew my father well – and called him Jacko Hall. Miss Maclean was about the prettiest girl there – the Shaws did not turn up.

4 May – Sunday

Attended the Barracca this evening – and saw Pritchard – spoke to him on social things. Last Tuesday we had a grand field day up on the Corradino Heights. The Admiral and Miss A. inspecting us. Sent our Commander to Hospital with the fever. Yesterday made calls and had a chat with Courtenay. In the evening had a tea – dinner on board the Agincourt with Jim Barrow, and then we went to the Shaws, and had great fun there, lots of music and dancing. Have not heard from Home this last mail.

The Lord Clyde’s Court Martial is over. The Captain, Bythesea and staff Comdr severely reprimanded and dismissed their ship. The two Lieuts lost two years – one docked two years and the other put to the bottom of the list, which is equal to two years.

9 May – Thursday

Last night a large party of us went to the Shaws and had dancing and music etc.

All this afternoon I have been sailing in my launch taking empties up to Pieta to the P & O there, and had difficult work in beating up the creek, it was blowing so hard, and I had to make such short tacks.

12 May – Sunday

Yesterday afternoon the Agincourt steamed out. I paid a farewell visit to Jim Barrow. I’m sorry he has gone, for he is not at all a bad boy and we had lots in common, knowing each other’s friends so well. Lunched with Tom Triggs on board the Thalia, he gave me all the latest news of my dear people at home. Met Capt. Hickley in Strada Reale, and asked him about his taking Uncle George’s skiff to Gibraltar. He told me if I brought it on Monday, it would be alright – so, having seen Capt. Boileau, I pulled the skiff round to Grand Harbour.

In the evening, went to the Shaws – and we had a regular romp dancing, and doing amateur flirting which is great fun – one of the Miss McLeod’s was there. I must say goodbye to the Shaws tomorrow, for they have been very kind to me – I have made it quite my home.

This forenoon took the Roman Catholics as usual to Chapel and sat it out in the Barracca gardens, not feeling over lively, these cursed debts of mine are weighing very heavy on me – and I don’t see my way clear how to get rid of them yet. I am in the sort of humour that I could see my creditors drowning and I doubt if I would not dance with savage joy at beholding them sinking – but I am doing my best – that is some comfort.

Attend the Barracca this evening – I shall quite miss my continuing service on going away from here.

13 May – Monday

This afternoon I got leave from the Commanding Officer and accordingly made tracks for the sea – got Gilbards skiff and observing at the head of the harbour a steamer with her head down and stern cocked up – I pulled towards, and boarded her – made friends at once with her skipper.

I must first say it was a Norwegian steamer Bergen and a Norse crew. We had a long chat about everything in general and nothing in particular. He took me down to his cabin and introduced me to his daughter, a by no means bad looking girl – his wife he informed me was seedy. I asked him to pay me a visit with his family – either to-morrow or when we come back – but, I’m forgetting to say what was the matter with the steamer – two of her blades had broken off, leaving one only – thus causing a delay of about three weeks. After I left her and had paid the Thalia a visit, I went to the Tamar and spoke about Uncle George’s skiff being hoisted in – which I experienced no difficulty about.

Then I went to the Shaws and found them in a great commotion – the scoundrel of a cook having been most impertinent to the two girls and threatening them etc. I found one of them in tears and poor Mrs Shaw in a great state of mind. I wished I had been there at a time I would have played a stick about his head I think. I bade them all a most affectionate good-bye – and came on board, to find myself late for dinner, a farewell dinner given to White and the fellows going home. Afterwards there followed the usual symptoms that some fellows wanted to retire, but we will pass over the particulars.

DEPART MALTA

15 May – Wednesday

Yesterday afternoon about 4 o’c, the fleet having got steam up – and the Admiral embarking – we slipped with our head about SW and ships on both our bows and quarters. J.B. in a masterly manner took us out. Rounding the Pallas in passing the Custom House, we as near as possible took the stern off a steamer called the Mary, she having let go her anchor right in the fairway and swinging broadside on. She screwed ahead, but put her helm the wrong way and then as we were closing her, she stopped altogether. But that J.B. sang out to them to go ahead again, which they did, thus saving a collision, which would otherwise have occurred. Not that it would have hurt us much.

After waiting outside some little time, the remainder of the fleet came out by degrees and we formed into line – the Helicon with Miss Yelverton and Mrs Brandreth in, steaming round and by us, kissing their hands etc. to their respective father and husband. Then of course came a little drill and after dinner I turned in, and spent the most miserable night, I have had for a long while – the heat being simply intolerable and my cough causing me no slight annoyance.

Kept the morning watch, this morning – made Etna out, looming in the distance and as daylight appeared, made out the snow and slight vapour issuing out.

Have been exercising the great guns in firing at targets 1800 and 1600 yards off and it is wonderful what splendid practice they make and dreadful headaches they give.

Hope to be at Naples the day after tomorrow.

16 May – Thursday

This morning Etna again loomed in sight the summit covered with snow. We entered the straits about 8 o’c a heavy head breeze blowing against us necessarily stopping us considerably.

The country both sides was rugged, but not particularly bold, nor pretty. Its great attraction were the small villages planted on the hills and in the valleys, some at the base, others half way up the hills – looking very pretty and cosy, and the great watercourses now dry and used for roads – some of them I should think were from 400–500 yds broad, winding up the valleys, till lost from view by a bend in the hill.

As we neared Messina, the straits became much narrower, the Sicilian coast appearing the best cultivated and few villages appearing on the Italian side. All along the Sicilian coast, the railway ran – a lot of white houses scattered along the line. This line runs now right down to Syracuse opposite Messina. We sent the Rapid in to get papers etc.

The wind went down about noon and we passed through the Northern entrance of the straits during the afternoon, Charybdis not twirling us about as it did the last time – leaving the rock of Scylla on our starboard hand. This part of the straits is much prettier than the other end – more cultivated and better wooded. Steamboats hoved in view, Rapid appeared bringing only papers for the Admiral.

Drilled for one solid hour and a half bringing the time up to 7 o’c and I don’t feel inclined to do any work, besides it being my First watch. We are enjoying the best of weather.

17 May – Friday

Dead calm. Land ahead being the land round Naples

ARRIVE NAPLES

18 May – Saturday

Got in this morning, the fleet anchoring outside the Mole off Santa Lucia landing place.

A lovely day – the bay looking very pretty – Vesuvius quiet – only smoking at intervals, the lava seems to have come very close to the villages on the coast – it still smokes. Made an engagement with Grillet to have my carte.

19 May – Sunday

Went with Fleet to the Chiaja, and heard the band – the gardens are very nicely lit up – a continual and ceaseless rattle of carriages driving outside was going on – I never saw so many carriages turn out, at any single place.

Went to the grotto of Posillipo yesterday and in the evening after listening to the band, went to San Carlo. Saw the first act of Seraglio, Mme Blum being the prima donna. I should think it was a pretty opera, but the performers in this case were not over good. Then followed a ballet for about two hours – the dresses and scenery were very rich and splendid and the dancing good – a tremendous lot of leg shown. Some of the scenery came down by the run and there came forth a most fearful row from the Italians hissing and shouting. The manager did everything he could to repair the accident, but the Italians did not stop making the noise. So, Musters, Bosanquet and I got up an opposition clapping in which we were joined by about 4 Mids from the Ariadne and continued clapping until we effectually stopped the Italians, by dint of perseverance.

I found an old shipmate of my father’s, in a curious manner, amongst the band playing in the gardens. I went up to ask the name of a piece being played, the bandsman answered me in English. Oh! says I, “You speak English very fairly.” “Yes”, said he – “I was on board an English man-of-war some time. What ship”? I replied – “In the Exmouth up the Baltic”, he said. I told him my Father was Captain of her and was now an Admiral. He asked me what ship I belonged to, so, I fully expect to see him and half Naples off to the ship paying me a visit.

22 May – Wednesday

Yesterday had my photograph done at Grillet – felt as if I must gather myself up for a supreme effort, when I sat down on the chair, and was told to put on a bon expression.

This forenoon, after looking over the Museum, met Martin at the Grand Care, we having predetermined to walk out to San Sebastian and back. After eating an ice, I’m ashamed to say we both felt so lazy, that we, instead of walking, jumped into a carriage, after beating the man down from 10 francs to 4 francs. I’m very glad we did not walk out, for the road was very dusty and the sun very hot. We reached San Sebastian in about an hour and saw before us a sight, which at first did not strike me with such wonder, but it grew over you, by degrees after looking at it. From about half way up the mountain, the lava had poured out in rivers, branching off in different directions, the main stream coming down towards Naples and off a house, it suddenly divided leaving the house intact, the biggest branch cutting through the village about 5–700 yds broad, sweeping every-thing before it, having mercy on nothing, trees, houses, vineyards, all buried by this liquid lava, from 20–30 feet deep.

After destroying the village, it ran into a large plain and having filled it, it stopped running and although the upper surface is hard but still warm, it must be almost in a liquid state beneath as it smokes a great deal. It was astonishing the way in which the lane ran, just as the whim or fancy took it, sparing a house that seemed must go, and cutting a corner of another that seemed alright. People, who were near it at night time, say the mountain looked like a mass of fire ashes that were thrown as far as Florence and Palermo.

DEPART NAPLES

24 May – Friday

At sea, having left Naples, yesterday evening, the sun looked about 10 minutes off setting. Received letters by the Helicon which vessel passed us during the night with the yacht Enchantress in tow, having my namesakes on board – the three girls being by no means bad looking.

26 May – Sunday

Passed through the straits yesterday forenoon, picking up a splendid breeze right aft – sending us along 8 knots. Dined with the Admiral in the evening, and kept the Middle watch.

Felt very seedy. Have been lying off Syracuse all to-day trying to beat up, with little wind, so the result is not very satisfactory.

ARRIVE MALTA

1 June – Saturday

We came into harbour Tuesday last – finding papers, letters etc. Heard from Captain Goodenough who is at Spezzia – also from my Father, Meta and others. Wrote and made a full confession and list of all my debts.

Went to the Opera last night, a very full house, it being the last one for the season. Have been out bathing and in my skiff all day. Heard from Meta and made a call on Mrs Salmon.

The Rapid and Shearwater went out.

4 June – Tuesday

Yesterday witnessed the departure of Sir Patrick Grant – Sir John Straubenzee having come by last Saturday’s Mail. He embarked at Calcarra gate – a guard of honour and band receiving him, together with a large number of military officers and ladies – and proceeded on board the Helicon which had steam up. The fleet manning yards and flagship firing salute 17 guns. Both Admiral and all the Captains together with many ladies bade them goodbye on board the Helicon, and the fountains of the deep were opened. She goes up to Genoa.

6 June – Thursday

Attended the funeral of our Chief Carpenter’s Mate, he having cut his throat the night before last – nearly taking his head off. He did his best to die quietly, for his two hands were found in his throat, evidently trying to tear it apart – but, not having strength enough to do so. I hear he did it through his wife being such a vixen and going wrong continually. They brought in Temporary Insanity but the parson (Bampfield) at R.N.H. objected to bury him, so, the Admiral gave him an order to do so.

Last night, I spent at the Shaws and they had a large party of children there, Aldrich showing them the Magic Lantern. I wish the appointments to Yacht would come out.

The Defence was inspected today and found in apple pie order – she flew a paying off pennant – but has to wait for the Lord Clyde, to escort her home. She will be ready by the 20th of this month and has had to have a new rudder made.

10 June – Monday

Attended the funeral of one of our Marines, who was found drowned in Dockyard Creek, having been in the water two or three days, so he smelt rather. We buried him early in the morning, there are suspicions of foul play, as he had a large sum of money on him and when found had none on him, also his face was knocked in considerably. A Maltese boatman found him at night. In picking up his moorings, he grasped this man’s head.

Went to the 6 o’clock Barracca Chapel in the evening.

DEPART MALTA

20 June – Thursday

It is now ten days since I last put down anything in my journal and I will proceed to jot down some few remarks on what has happened during the interval.

From June 10th to June 16th I was employed on board the Lord Clyde with a large working party from six in the morning until six in the evening – with a couple of hours stand-easy during the day. It was very tiring work and I was not at all sorry when we had finished with her. She came out of dock at the end of the week and the light crane hoisted in her launches and Diana’s leg from Ephesus, about 10 tons or so.

Saturday last, I spent with the Shaws as also Sunday and Monday evening, and bade Mrs Shaw and Nina good-bye, as they both go home to England in the Orontes which sails today from Malta. Mrs Shaw is going home to put her eldest boy and girl to school in Essex and I’ve written to my people to look after them on their arrival etc.

The Fleet sailed Tuesday last for Gibraltar – seven ships in all and we have been steaming ever since using the sails, as the wind was fair or not.

Last night a frightful catastrophe happened in the animal world. It was my Middle watch and about 1.30 am. I heard the most fearful cackling and saw about 18 ducks waddling about so gave chase and boxed them up in the head where they were gallantly collared by the Corporal and put into their home again. About ten minutes had elapsed – when another fearful cackling arose and I looking down from the bridge saw the flock of ducks en masse rush aft on the quarterdeck – to see the officer of the watch! They were headed by the Mid and Corporal of the watch and they rushed forward again – but, this time into the fore chains.

The Corporal in vain tried to head them again, for as soon as they saw him stealthily crawling along towards them, the leader stepped out right merrily, and walked into the water. Some eight or ten more followed – to our horror, and shortly afterwards a small band of five appeared, the remnant of the gallant army that had marched so stately on to the quarterdeck some five minutes before. I went to the gangway and heard quacking going on and past me for some time – and I thought – “There goes the Admiral’s ducks” for I’m thankful to say, they were not G.R. ones.

23 June – Sunday

Steaming, with Research in tow, having carried a fair wind up to this evening, taking us abreast Algiers. Tommy B – took us past the Research very nicely and closely.

ARRIVE GIBRALTAR

29 June – Saturday

Arrived at Gibraltar Thursday last. Having a nice fair wind astern, we came up close to the rock under sail, having towed and cleared a bum-boat out – which we met 25 miles out at sea.

That afternoon I paid a visit to my people, and found them settled in a little jewel of a house situated in Governor’s Lane – found them all looking very well, and much improved by coming here from Malta. Heard of Harry’s being able to enter the Army. After bathing I dined with the Gilbard’s and then going to the Alameda listened to the 71st Band, a very good band indeed. Came off about 11.30 pm.

Next day I was busy at the Victualling Yard – filling bags with biscuits, stowed in tanks, each tank holding about 1000 lbs, and each bag 100 lbs. Filled 360 bags.

The Helicon coming in brought the mails, and I heard from my father – my hopes of the yacht have all but vanished.

30 June – Sunday

This morning the Endymion came in under sail, the wind falling very light. She lowered both cutters and these two with a bum-boat tried towing her.

After taking the RC’s, instead of coming off, I went to the Gilbard’s found them on board the Caledonia to lunch so had lunch by myself. After bathing, went to St John’s Chapel and came back to dinner, Capt. Salmon and Madden dining there also – the latter is of a very dry humour replete with yarns – and I never before heard of so many stories, with double meanings attached repeated before a lady, but the lady would stay.

1 July – Monday

Been provisioning all this morning. One man broke his leg by a bag of biscuits falling on it. This afternoon went out to the Neutral Ground, and saw a cricket match. Fleet v Garrison, the latter going in first, went out for 210 runs or thereabouts – and the former out for xxx wickets down. Had a delicious bathe at Rosia Bay.

4 July – Thursday

Yesterday lunched with my Aunt, and after getting a letter from Lily and bidding good-bye to my Aunt and doing the same to Ethel, whom I met riding home from school, I went for a bathe and got on board to keep the 4 to 6 watch. Dining, I went into the Reading room, read the latest papers and then came on board to keep the First watch and I’m sure it was enough to make one feel five years older.

The Governor and Colonels, Aide-de-Camps coming on one side, ship surging about and stage constantly slipping off the mole and Post Captains on the other side – about 11 o’clock I am thankful to say they all went away. One Colonel would persist in trying to light his cigar from a lantern, half-a-gale of wind blowing.

This morning, we began getting chains ashore and about 11 o’c the fleet started, including Research, Pallas, and Caledonia; the Defence, Lord Clyde and Ariadne having gone for England yesterday morning. Made sail before dinner, with a slashing breeze astern, sending us along 9 knots.

DEPART GIBRALTAR

6 July – Saturday

Been sailing by the wind for the last 30 hours and literally making nothing, so it is to be hoped that the wind changes, or that we make use of the fair wind in the bunkers.

9 July – Tuesday

Wind still the same and ship still on port tack, barometer high, and although the wind gave signs of changing this morning, it has belied its appearance. The only change is that, except during the middle of the day, it is very misty and at times drizzling. We ought to get a change of wind soon, from the Westward – as we are getting on to the W of West longitude. The thermometer has dropped on an average of 8 to 10 degrees, since our coming out into the Atlantic. We have not seen a sail for the last three days. The Squadron make about 1 in 12 miles to windward, not so bad, for the ironclads, but there is little sea on.

Last night I dined with the Admiral, sitting on his left. J.B. was quite merry and jovial, relating about a gale of wind which he was in, in the Orion, having left his Captain ashore. He remained outside Queenstown looking for a wreck, the remainder of the fleet having gone in, and next morning on going into harbour, the 1st Lord said he was the only one that had done right – the remainder of the Captains said, he remained outside, as he liked being in command. The Admiral was conversational – and he saw I did not drink the Queen’s health, being a teetotaller, so he said, “Hall, it is not at all disrespectful to drink Her Majesty’s Health in water” – and gave me the pump and I drank it right loyally – which, if I could have got the water, I would have done without the Admiral saying anything.

12 July – Friday

Steaming to Northward, having been becalmed for the last 48 hours, charming weather, and weather that makes one regret going into port. This morning firing at target, knocked one away, hitting the other. It being calm, a cutter was lowered and several turtles – small ones – picked up. We had passed through quite a school of them – one of them being too lazy to get out of the way, was rammed and turned over.

Last night we had a good evening’s drill, shifting top sail yard and jib-boom.

16 July – Tuesday

Sailing along before the long wished for Westerly breeze – having picked it up this morning. Nothing of interest has happened during the last four days – routine followed out &c.

19 July – Friday

Steaming along 5 knots, the Westerly breeze not over affectionate at the best of times, having bid us a cold farewell today.

Yesterday evening whilst drilling, a man fell overboard from fore rigging, struck sheet anchor, gashing his head open in the passage. A couple of blue-jackets, Clancy and Blessingham and Lieut Kane (carrying on forward) jumped in after him and kept him up – till the cutter came up.

The ship was not moving much at time, or very slightly so and when the cutter was about four feet above water, being fitted with hooks, the tackle was slipped, but, lo! the after fall held – and although ship had little way on, cutter was soon broadside. The foremost fall slipping – and after fall out, through the pin not having been taken out. If ship had been going ahead the boat must have been swamped and more lives endangered – through negligence.

Been working hard at my French, average two hours and a half per day.

ARRIVE VIGO

23 July – Tuesday

I was in hopes of escaping further Middle watches at sea for this cruise, but the westerly breeze failed us and not getting up steam, kept us out last night, but, before going further I must first state how necessary it is to have steam always ready at command in these ironclads. Yesterday morning, the wind fell very light, and the ship got into the wind and would not go off, although head, yards were a-box – and Caledonia holding wind forged down very close to us. We immediately got up steam, but before we found it necessary to use it, the wind came up stronger and the ship’s head paid off, but now if by any chance, a shift of wind had put Caledonia in a similar predicament to what we were in, and steam had not been handy in either vessels, the consequences would have been disastrous.

The same way during the afternoon the wind falling light and a swell on weather quarter – she got into the wind, and although head yards were braced a-box and after sails lifting, she actually would not pay off at all and did not do so until the after yards were squared – and then she went off and afterwards we furled all sails in M-zn.

In my Middle watch last night, we sighted revolving light some 20 miles off and daylight made land. On getting up in the morning found sails furled and steaming up Vigo Bay. Made out Helicon at anchor. The country looked very pretty so jolly and green. Came to close off the town. Received letters from my mother, Meta and a charming epistle from Frances.

This afternoon M’Alpine and I went ashore, and struck out into the country to right of the town, walked to a trout stream some two miles out. Not at all a bad walk, remained there some time, and walked back to town. Repaired to Casino of which we are Honorary Members, had a game of billiards with M’Alpine, the balls being something after the style of 32 pdrs and cues like a weavers beam. The country looks wild and pretty, is very mountainous – well-wooded – little pasturage, but generally cultivated – fruit, vegetables etc. The farm houses seem extensive and massively built with a square tower. I suppose brigands and Carlists make their appearance now and again. The town is pretty clean and built on two sides of a hill, consequently the streets are hilly and steep. I was struck with the large number of women, as compared to the men and also their fine looks, really very pretty, fine teeth etc. Few prettier girls out of England that I have seen, come up to the women here. It will be a disagreeable contrast going to Lisbon. Came on board, and found a sewing party underweigh, but felt too tired to go.

25 July – Thursday

Had a walk yesterday, meeting Gussy Fane, went to the trout stream 2 miles out, remained there some time and no luck coming, strolled on, and back into the town. The women as I said before are pretty and moderately immoral, accosting you in the streets in even a more open manner than at Naples, brats of boys pimping, when they should be at home or in the nursery.

Swiftsure came in this morning, bringing me a long letter from my dearest Father, who seems to be very busy both officially and commercially. I sincerely hope that the two together may not bring complications, but I have forebodings. Endymion came in yesterday, so we have a very fair squadron.

Went ashore this afternoon with M’Alpine to a small trout stream, two miles off to try our luck. Not being Jobs we left the fish behind us and came into the town. At the Casino had a game of billiards, in which I came off victor.

26 July – Friday

Remained on board all day, it raining hard, off and on, the whole time. Sewing party away, luckier than the last, this one a very select party under Bruce. They dragged at the same place as the last party – opposite the town.

27 July – Saturday

This morning, Perry, Paul and myself started from the ship at about a quarter to nine for a long walk, but before going we had a look in at the market – which together with the square, were full of people and cattle, it being market-day.

At 9 o’c we started on the Lisbon road and had proceeded as far as the trout stream, when we caught up a party of Spaniards – four women and one man – one of the women being very pretty, broadside on. I should think about 20 years of age. After saluting each other, we three marched on and struck up some ditties, which possessed neither music nor melody, however the Spaniards being close behind us laughed and seemed amused, so we struck up chums and walked together; Perry keeping up desultory conversation with them – he knowing a little Spanish. Paul and I were not so fortunate and had to do everything by looks.

We all halted at a wine-shop some six miles out and we stood wine all round. Had some difficulty in getting the old lady to take English money and off we started again – and had gone about ten miles, through really very nice country on a good road, (it is mountainous – and the vine and maize are what are principally grown – they make very pretty avenues – by first erecting trestle-work and then growing the vine right over, forming delicious arbours and avenues, both to look at and to recline under), when Perry’s chum and her little sister turned off into a bye-path and left us all plunged in grief – to the company of the remaining three which, however did not make up her loss. She said, as she left, in a very pretty manner – “God be with you all.”

I never saw a woman walk so well as she did – walked like a queen, every inch of her – barefooted, but had small feet and hands – middle-sized, but very nice figure, her walk was simply perfection – dark eyes and picturesque dress. She looked something like a Gitana. All the women walk very well. They seem to do all the carrying work in baskets, carried on their head, being poised on a small round coil of cotton, fitting on top of head – and they walk long distances from the country, into Vigo to do business and at a good round pace with these weights on their head.

The women in this part of Spain (Galicia) wear a very picturesque dress – a coloured handkerchief over head, and falls down back, then a body, or stomacher, fitting close without sleeves, then a short dress, their arms are enveloped by cotton sleeves from their shirt under stomacher, or whatever it may be.

After walking about 11 miles, we stopped and bade good-bye to our friends, who said all sorts of pretty things and then we plunged down into a valley, thickly wooded, some hundred feet deep with a village and stream at bottom. But in going half way down I saw a very nice sheltered spot, on which I threw myself – contagion took – Perry did likewise, but Paul would go down to the miserable village to get something. Our friends had warned us not to go down, saying that the inhabitants were robbers and we would be lost. (I think however that their statements were very overdrawn, and interested, for they wished for our company). Paul could get nothing but a couple of pears, so we took our siesta and staying there three quarters of an hour we started to go back same way walking a good round pace – the road to here being very pretty.

Met any amount of good people coming back from Vigo – and a lot of boys, under charge of a pretty girl passed us, running by. She halted them and let us pass by – and on our halting at a wine shop, she marched them past (some dozen of them) and made them all salute us with a Boa Tarde, as the young urchins all said it one after the other it sounded like soft murmurs of waters – a very pretty and graceful compliment, I thought.

Had some fun with people returning from town, saluting with a “Buenos Tarde” and they returning the compliment with much mirth – some saying “Ingleses very good.” There is one thing that I wish they would improve, i.e. their country carts – with wooden wheels, which creak and groan d-----.

On approaching the town the “I says” (expression in town, used towards English. What it means, no one knows for certain) increased, also the other one, more offensive. One blackguard using it towards a very pretty girl, I should say his sister. Two near relations, to all appearance with them, the two men not saying anything, we all felt inclined to kick the young blackguards’ backside. This happened about two miles out of town.

We got on board, about six o’clock, had a bath and good dinner, with a knowledge of having most thoroughly enjoyed oneself. We got over about 23 or 24 miles of ground, certainly not less than 22. Now I’m off to my couch – to a rest, well earned.

28 July – Sunday

Went ashore after dinner for a stroll, and made my way up the Madrid road, where a fiesta was going on. Passed some dozen cattle some of them in a most deplorable state – came on board early.

31 July – Wednesday

Out firing in launch. Found that all the shot after the first strike in water inclined considerably to the right, I suppose some 20 to 30 degrees, so I had to knock off firing.

Next day went out under sail, anchored and fired away – and returned under sail.

The Helicon ordered to England and Nugent one of her subs having invalided, Graves applied for and got the vacancy to hold it for this trip. I did not hear of the vacancy until too late. I then spoke to the Secretary – and he said he would ask the Admiral that night, which he never did.

So this morning, I asked the Captain. He said – “Everyone wants to go Home – Mr Graves is on leave – no room – No – can’t spare you” – so I went down to my breakfast rather crestfallen but still hungry. I think he might have served a son of one in same trade, better, especially my father holding a command at Devonport to which place the Helicon goes. This afternoon I’ve been on watch, having to keep Graves’ watch.

The boats of the fleet out sailing with a good breeze. We have had regular West Country weather lately here, heavy showers of rain. Bathe every day.

Saturday next we go to sea for a fortnight.

1 August – Thursday

Went ashore with Perry this morning and walked out a short distance on the Madrid road and came to under a shady spot, just off the road, where we layed down, smoked and Perry recounted to me all about his difficulties and adventures attached to his engagement. We then walked back, and Perry returned on board to shift for calling on some Spanish girls who had paid the ship a visit last Sunday. Met Powell at the Club – had a game of billiards with him, beating him and then went for a stroll, up some lanes – had to whack a young boy across his backside, for pestering me for mile with a very pretty little girl about six years of age.

DEPART VIGO

3 August – Saturday

Rolling about with little wind. Vigo astern some 15 miles, having left it this forenoon in company with fleet. We towed Endymion out, with a 9 in. hawser.

Had my last walk ashore yesterday afternoon, when I stretched out and walked along the Madrid road and came to under the same tree that I had done under the preceding day. Had Goldsmith with me and smoked some cigarettes reading his essays, passed a very pleasant afternoon reading. Picked Target up, a Sub-lieut, on the road and we walked back together. Came on board tired, wrote some letters and turned in.

On hauling in the starboard bower cable, found a dozen links in one shackle, where it had taken the copper, damaged by galvanic action. Some links being eat into more than eighth of an inch – shifted this length and put a length of sheet on in its place.

7 August – Wednesday

A couple of days ago picked up a westerly breeze, which has been blowing ever since. Put the ship under double reefed topsails last night in my first watch – and had not long finished the evolution when down came a squall slap, bang went the jib-boom over the bows taking the jib with it. The broken piece floated out of the funnel and relieved us from any trouble on its account, by gaily floating away. The helm was put hard up – housed Fore Top G. mast – and got sail tackle up, hooked on to clew of jib and walked it inboard then got wreck of ropes up. The Captain was very quiet, he could not very well pitch into any-one, for he would carry it on.

Yesterday forenoon sighted a man of war, which turned out to be the Repulse bound for the Pacific station with Admiral Hillyar’s flag flying – exchanged salutations.

8 August – Thursday

Rolling about all the day, with little wind. Drilled this evening – smoked after dinner, heard some facetious yarns about bluejackets. One the Hannibal paying off at Plymouth – some of the crew hired a coach and hoisted a donkey up each side for quarter boats. Whenever anything was dropped – “Away lifeboat’s crew – lower away – pick up article and hoist away.”

Another funny thing happened at Gibraltar – two bluejackets riding one mule – rode into the Alameda, charging a regiment full tilt – one fellow holding on to the tail, the other on to the mane. Colonel – : “Why the D-- do you run into regiment? Don’t pitch into me Sir” – Jack was at helm and steered her – Colonel – : “Then why the d-- did you steer into regiment”? “Well, I will be d--- I was steering, but Tom never reported regiment ahead – he being on the lookout.” So the Colonel getting no satisfaction allowed them to ride off.

ARRIVE CORUNNA

12 August – Monday

Arrived here this forenoon – sighting the land last night. Late in the afternoon we had a good Easterly wind – and were under double reefed topsails. Stood off during the night – took in my Middle watch – ship went round very well indeed. Found no letters or papers waiting. Had lots of people off to see the ship – many Spanish damsels – one boat load created a tremendous row alongside, a little swell being on, and they were on the upper deck when a salute was fired and such a screaming and mild fainting went on. Bay is large, but open to a Northerly and N Westerly breeze and a good swell comes tumbling in. Ferrol is on the opposite side about two hours by steamer.

22Two and twenty years ago at xxx am. a boy entered this world – and now after the aforementioned interval – he is a Sub in the Royal Navy on 5/– a day – and I wonder whether two and twenty years on he will still be in the land of the living, and if is, what rank in service etc. and whether a ‘benedict’, or no – the chances to that are all in favour of his being one.

Yesterday forenoon – Perry and I found our way ashore, equipped in the lightest of costumes, pockets full of biscuit, lots of lights etc. and a stick. We first trod the sod at 10 o’c and went to Sir John Moore’s grave. We had not the least difficulty in finding our way, because as some half dozen boats landed from the fleet full of officers, and nearly all took their way to the tomb. A continual stream of naval officers continued to pour on through the streets, towards the part [of the]rampart, on which is placed a small garden, enclosed by a wall.

We entered in, first looked at garden, the walks are laid out in the form of an Union Jack – the lines finding their concentric at Sir John Moore’s tomb, which is in the form of an immense cradle standing on a pedestal, and surrounded by a square railing, Acacia trees growing around. An inscription on the tomb gives the date (1809) and a short eulogy to his memory – and another inscription tells you that the gardens were laid out, (to his memory) by some Spanish grandee – mayhap the same one that removed his body to Madrid – where it is now.

Having bought some photographs, and been presented with some shrubs off his tomb by a Spanish girl – (you may be sure, not for nothing – for how often are disinterested actions or kindnesses done, without a view to some future benefit – few and far between). We walked through the principal street of the town – which is well paved but, like many Spanish towns, has no footway – shops small and not those that would delight the eyes of a young English lady, but I think everything not actually out of the common, nor, the last fashion, can be got here – as I got several things and did not find any difficulty.

The town is surrounded by ramparts, and is divided into three parts, two inside ramparts and one, an excrescence from the old town, outside ramparts. Looking from the country, just outside the town, it reminds you of Syracuse – the inlet from the Bay running round in the same manner – and town built on rocky peninsula jutting boldly out.

The people are like most Spanish people, women very passable – most of them have a very voluptuous look – dark eyes and sensual looking lips – and the men are poor looking (I’m talking of the town people). In the country, the men and women are both passable – the women having a healthier look – and they seem to lose that luxurious and voluptuous appearance, that their sisters in the town possess, in exchange for as pretty, but a little homelier look. In my opinion, they do not lose by the exchange.

After wandering through the town, we struck out into the country, towards the battle-field – and at last fetched under a tree, some three miles out, under which we threw ourselves down – had luncheon, smoked, talked, wrote a few lines to Meta. (Perry the same to his true love) and then laid on our backs and watched some women washing in a stream, which was running not far from where we were lying down.

The sun having descended many degrees, we rose, shook our laziness from off us and put on a piece of energy and forthwith began leaping to and fro over the aforesaid brook, Perry beating me – but, I was at a disadvantage, having my thick boots on. We, having satisfied and thrown off energy, next took to ourselves idling – finding our way along and between hedges, gathering all the ripe blackberries that we could lay hands on. At last we stretched out, and soon fetched the town posting our letters and doing a little shopping – finished our day ashore.

Came off – had dinner – and after dinner a small party joined our G.R. gathering – to wit – Father, son, two daughters and a small son. They drank – sang – at least the son played the violin, which he had brought off and the father began humming, after a respectable number of glasses of wine. After giving them tea – it being precious hot – I offered my arm to one of the girls and led her on to the upper deck – followed by her sister, a waltz being played at the time. I took a turn and then consigned her to the care of some one else. They remained on board some time until they seeing their Father actually could not stand, he having fallen down a ladder – bade good-bye.

A good many people visited the ship both yesterday and today. This forenoon some really very nice girls came down into G.R. and we showed photograph books etc – one said of Meta’s très jolie – but I was showing it.

We weighed anchor at 2 pm and steamed across taking an hour and a half – it being about 12 miles across. Ferrol stands at the head of the harbour and some two to three miles from its mouth which has high land, both sides. The harbour is wide at entrance, suddenly narrowing to about 4 – 500 yds halfway up to Ferrol, and then opening again into a small bay, on the Northern side of which stands Ferrol, but more of it anon.

Anxiously expecting the King of Spain, for his not being punctual, keeps us all on board, and as it is my all day off it is a great bore.

The Aurora came in this morning from Vigo. The Helicon came in Thursday from Plymouth and brought me about a dozen letters every-one at home writing.

My Father also most kindly sent me £10 – and knowing the difficulty he must have had to send it – makes the gift ten times as valuable – but, the affection that is showed cannot be measured. He also told me of his refusing to allow an engagement to take place between darling Meta and Grogan of the 42nd, until he had a sufficient income to keep her on – his estates being heavily mortgaged and a lot of annuities charged on it. I’m very sorry for both parties for he is from my father’s account a splendid young fellow and they are both very much in love with each other. I hope things may turn up brighter for them both.

I see from my Father’s letter how hard he must find it to make both ends meet – and how necessary it is for me to save everything I can – not only with a view to paying off my own debts, but also I must remember my dear father cannot live for ever – and then, I must look after the young children.

Had a nice long letter from Henry. Heard from many other friends – and received a lot of butter from Meta and Russie – which was very acceptable.

Last night got into trouble through Mr Seymour Pelham Dacres. Confounded ass, about as much fit for a Flag Lieut as he is for anything else, except a rowdy gun-room.

Went ashore this afternoon – but before I go further, I must relate how the King of Spain arrived in the Vitoria.

At 4 pm a signal was made that the ship was in sight entering the harbour and shortly afterwards she hove in sight – carrying all the bunting that she could on her masts, yards, etc. On her arriving in the narrowest part of entrance, salutes were fired from the big fort at inner entrance and from boats with guns, which had gone out to meet her. She steamed slowly up between the two lines and cast anchor ahead of us – the fleet manning yards and firing salutes.

Le Strange’s sister and brother-in-law, a Mr and Mrs Oliphant came with the King, he having given them a passage. They came on board here and were put up for the night in side cabin of the Admiral’s. The town and ships were illuminated very well – especially the latter.

This afternoon I went ashore by myself and posted a letter with £5 in it, to Guy and Eames – and also had a stroll into the country. The town is paved badly, the drains run through the centre of the streets and of course emit an unpleasant smell. The houses are of moderate size – most of them have balconies and projecting windows. Met the King several times driving about with a small escort. In my opinion, he was received most coldly, few people saluting him. The English Officers were very noticeable with respect to saluting him, in comparison with these Spaniards.

I went outside the town a short distance, and the heat being rather great, I laid me down under the shade of a tree and read a little and finally dozed off – woke up after an interval of about an hour, and walked back into the town – meeting a lot of country people who had been to see His Majesty.

Went over the Dockyard – which is of moderate size. I suppose about the size of Sheerness Yard. It contains a large basin and some good sized buildings – with a few small dry docks. In the basin were a couple of frigates – one an old and one new – and an ironclad, half armoured – i.e. I should say, with only half her armour on, for she is only to be a partially armoured ironclad. She carried 10 guns on main deck, contained in a battery, and on the upper deck amidships, she has another box for two guns, and the top g. f’cle is pierced for four guns, I should think of small calibre. Her rudder is protected well as her stern overlaps the rudder post, she having a shovel nosed stern. Came on board.

Monday last, His Most Gracious Majesty, King of Spain, paid us a visit about 2 pm with a large suite of Spaniards – and went all round the ship. He was very pleased at the lower deck, which is very nicely got up and was well lit up. We then went to General Headquarters and the men worked exceedingly well – and some electric firing and His Majesty finished his visit.

In the evening he came to dine with the Admiral at 8 pm. Altogether 36 sat down – King in the centre – Admiral Yelverton on left and Mrs Oliphant on the right. Admiral Beranger – Minister of Marine on left of Admiral and so on. It being my First watch, I had to keep it, the whole time in full dress, for the dinner was not over until 10 o’c. There were only two toasts – His Majesty proposing the Queen’s health – and then the Admiral proposing the King’s health, with the vivas.

About 10.30 they came on to the poop, which had been turned into a smoking divan, by securing all foreign ensigns to wheel of field piece, and tricing it up and taking flags out to side. Made a very pretty and good sized tent, it was well lit up. They smoked until seven bells and then His Majesty departed, leaving the ship at 11.45. The fleet lit blue lights at yard arms and fired a royal salute, it looked very pretty indeed. Then the remainder of the guests departed – some exceedingly lively – one a Times reporter H--- fell flat on his nose on arriving ashore. The King, I believe, drank nothing, being next door to a teetotaller.

I must now give a short description of his personal appearance. His Majesty is tall, I should say, very nearly 6 feet – slightly built, and has an angular face, the sharpness concealed by beard and moustache and whiskers that he wears – pale complexion and very fine dark eyes, that have a fixed languid look about them – small hands and sonorous voice – thus stands Amadeus the First.

Next day the fleet got up steam and forming single line, Flagship leading, steamed round the harbour and formed astern of the Vitoria and proceeded out of harbour in her wake. When in the harbour part of entrance, a steam launch would persist in trying to cross our bows. The helm was put to starboard and we caught the launch on the bluff of our bows, not doing much damage. The coxswain of the launch threw his tiller overboard and went after it, followed by two other Spaniards – in fact they all lost their heads. There were a lot of women in the boats, so the screaming was truly terrific. We lowered out life-boats very quickly. His Majesty waited for us. We took little more than an hour to steam across – and when anchored fired salutes, manned yards etc. on the King’s landing. Next day – Wednesday – His Majesty and the fleet departedfrom Corunna – and when outside bay, we manned rigging, fired salute and cheered him. The Vitoria acknowledged it by dipping her ensign.

I dined that night with the Admiral, who of course was full of the King – relating anecdotes. One was that at dinner the Admiral said to him: “I wish to propose a toast quietly between us.” The King asked: “What is it”? Admiral: “To our well beloved Italy.” King put his hand under the table and pressed the Admiral’s. He had to be careful of giving offence for Admiral Beranger, Minister of Marine sat next him. General Burgos, the man who seeing the assassins at Madrid raising their guns, without ceremony shoved both the King and Queen to the bottom of the carriage and stood over them; he was not at dinner, as J.B. said, he had his family to look after.

The last thing the King did was to ask the Admiral to cancel all punishments, being undergone in the fleet at that time, which the Admiral did, and thus we bade good-bye to the King of Spain, and may he have a long and prosperous reign, for he surely deserves it.

We steamed straight out from land and then made sail to a good Northerly breeze.

The Helicon goes in today to Vigo, to take letters and see if Invincible has arrived – if so, we shall go in at once. This is very monotonous work carrying about, with no object in view but to kill time. How I should like to make My Lord’s cruise about for a few weeks off Finisterre. Yesterday, we were as near as possible over the spot that the Captain went down at.

Just finished Bulwer Lytton’s My Novel [?] and like it very much. I think that the character of Randal Leslie is drawn a little too strong in refined villainy.

Aurora and Swiftsure have been sailing matches the last few days, the former invariably winning.

Came in here last Wednesday, under all possible sail, and it must have been a very pretty sight from the shore to see us all coming in. We came in by the North entrance. Of course we anchored under steam – found the Helicon and an English yacht in here called the Bella-donna belonging to an Englishman called Slingsby-Bethell, son of Lord Westbury.

Went ashore next day with Perry and had a delightful walk over the country, roaming about through some very pretty lanes. At last we lost our way and at last we sat on a large stone and played at noughts and crosses – in which pastime we were discovered by Capt. Buckle and Pickard, who, looking at us for some little time, could no longer keep their gravity, but burst out laughing and we all four laughed, at what none of us knew. However on we roamed – and found our way into the town at last, came off and had a good dinner.

Next two days on. A very nice English girl married to an Italian came on board with her half sister, a Frenchwoman. They also came on board to church – and came into G.R..

Yesterday – I heard from Annie who is going to be married on the 25th. They spend their honeymoon in Switzerland. Meta is staying with them up at Moffat.

Yesterday I was showing some very nice people round and suddenly was asked to look out for the barge – so down I jumped shifted and off to the Caledonia where the Admiral was, having been inspecting her – as she goes home next Thursday.

Arriving there, found the Bethells and Capt. Buckle and Flag Lieut ready to embark, so off we started being towed by steam pinnace for the head of the harbour to look at the French diving vessel. After half an hour’s run up to her, past the place where some English men-of-war some few score of years ago broke a chain across the harbour, we ranged up alongside the vessel, but found they were not at work, as they don’t work on a Monday.

She was a fine roomy vessel and had been an old East Indiaman. A Frenchman took us over the vessel showing us all the machinery used, the magnetic lights etc. and the huge diving bell. He told us that they got nothing in the shape of money from the first, and from the one on which they were at work, they had got 3,000 dollars. But I expect they took a moderate number of them down with them. I believe the company is not in a very flourishing condition.

We steamed up alongside the yacht – and we went on board – she is very roomy indeed being over seven feet ‘tween decks. She has a large sitting room, panelled with walnut wood, and well fitted up and very roomy sleeping cabins.

I got on board just in time to shift and off to Swiftsure to dine with Capt. Cleveland, refusing an invitation to the Admiral’s. They keep a very good mess on board indeed, and I had a pleasant dinner. Came on board about 9.30 pretty wet through. Next day it came on to blow from the S West and we had to veer cable to 8 fm. However I landed in the afternoon, with Byron and had a pleasant walk reading the Giaour.

Kept Bailey’s 6–8 watch and about 10 pm with eight other fellows, all from the gun room except Wood – went ashore in the steam pinnace, to attend a ball given by the good people ashore to the fleet. We arrived there just before 11 pm and soon found partners, there being a super-abundance of ladies. The fleet was very badly represented – our ship comprising more than half the number of Naval Officers present. Capt. Ward was the only Captain present. There were about 200 people present, and there was lots of room for dancing. The dances danced were the Waltz, Lancers, Danza – Rigadoon and Polka.

The Danza, you both stood as close together as decency permitted and then danced (or stepped rather) back slowly, preparatory to taking half-a-dozen turns of a waltz step and so on until further orders. The Rigadoon danced something similar to our quadrille, but with six figures. The Spaniards did not dance much mayhap from politeness to their English guests, but I don’t think that they go in for fast dancing much. It became very hot later on, and one could only get very sweet milk and lemonade to quench the thirst and for anything more solid – some very nasty sticky confectionery had to suffice.

I had great fun at the ball, although my speaking was very limited, I managed to make myself understood pretty well. There was no difficulty in getting dances for the girls abounded, beyond what was required. Some of them very pretty – one especially, some Countess from Madrid, I had the pleasure of dancing with her. I found that few of the girls could speak French. Was introduced to the English girl, wife of an Italian ex-Consul at Cardiff. We had a long chat together.

The ball broke up about 2.30 and down through the rain we came to the landing – and after some difficulty got a boat to come off, in paying four dollars for seven of us. We got well wet through – but enlivened the way with songs – Foote giving us a good many.

The next two days after the ball were my two days on and nothing of account happened – excepting the Caledonia left the fleet on the 5th inst, homeward bound. She went out on a very rainy day about 2 pm. and her men ran away with the anchor gear in the most astonishing manner. We exchanged a lot of affectionate signals and then as she steamed through the lines – the fleet manned the rigging and as she passed gave her three most hearty cheers, which she returned most lustily.

Last Friday took a stroll with Denny through the lanes, we found ourselves getting very thirsty, during the course of the afternoon and coming to a large country house, with a small field with melons in front. They tempted us sufficiently as to make us enter and ask for one – which after a great deal of laughing and signs, we got, presenting the maid servant with a silver piece at the same time. It was a very big one and as Denny would not carry it – I had to, holding it in both

my arms like a huge baby, and walked off amidst much merriment from the spectators. However as we had the melon we did not mind, but we most certainly did mind on arriving at a very shady little place, and after much difficulty with my penknife, opening it, to find the melon quite unripe – Oh! ye gods!, how we swore.

This afternoon, a large steam yacht of over 400 tons came in, belonging to Samuelson Esq. MP. The officer of the guard on, boarded her before she got pratique, and so J.B. in a very facetious manner sent him back, and told him if they were put into quarantine, that he would have to remain there and sent him back to wait until they got pratique. They remained some time, and were made very comfortable indeed – cigars, grog, etc etc., I don’t suppose they would have minded remaining in quarantine some longer time, in such good company. There are a large party on board – some ladies and children. Babington’s yacht sailed this afternoon and the Bella-donna yesterday for Lisbon. We shall go as soon as the Invincible comes out.

The Captain wants to move over to the other side, on account of there being such a fearful amount of venereal disease knocking about – an enormous number of men in the flat are laid up with it, not to take into account those that don’t come forward. The Consul states that most of the women come in from the country but from the scenes, that one can’t help seeing from the Club, what goes on in the Ladies Street, it is not to be wondered at. I think some system of fining both for that and for drunkenness should be instituted and that it would be efficacious to a certain degree – but more especially, would I introduce it for drunkenness – for syphilitic diseases I should stop a man’s wages, or a certain amount of them whilst he was unable to do his duty, for why should the country support a man that does no duty, through his own folly.

The day before yesterday Denison and I went out for a stroll, striking up from the Madrid road into some trees to the right. We soon came to anchor under a very shady young oak, and rested there some little time. We then went on and passing through a small village, bought a melon and having gained a nice shady spot in a lane, we proceeded to demolish it, and in a very short time it had disappeared down our mouths with the exception of a slice we gave an old lady, who was driving a donkey and seemed on the best of terms with it – quite unlike Mr Sprott the tinker. We came on board by the 6 o’c boat.

Next day, Wednesday 11 September will be red letter day in my journal, a day in which I had great fun – for (now for the recountal) – ye gods.

The Gun Room Officers – or, rather a large number of them – had decided to give a picnic to the fair Senoritas of Vigo and asked about 15 or 16 ladies, not more than 4 having passed the age of five and twenty; and those 4 chaperones – I must do them the credit of saying behaved very well the whole time and were no check to the amusement – but I am anticipating.

Well the day appeared arrayed in its busy apparel – a clear blue sky for its vesture – but the sun, its countenance was too bright – there being no wind. After morning drill &c. we shoved off from the ship in 1st Launch, with the masts up and small awning spread – lots of flags and rugs in the boat – about 11 o’c and pulled ashore (how the milk of human kindness ran down ) to the pier. It took us some time to collect the ladies, and about 12.30 a nice sea breeze having sprung up – off we shoved and ran up the harbour under all sail – the stern sheets of the boat being packed with ladies – Perry, sly dog, in the centre and remainder of us perched round. After an hour’s run up the harbour, opposite a little wood, we let go the anchor, but saw something was wrong amongst the ladies, who deputed Perry to inform us that the place did not appear to them at all a desirable place for a picnic. So we up anchor and sailed along to another place, about a mile higher up – this time the ladies were satisfied – and now we proceeded to land them in the dinghy – and found at first some little difficulty – the water running out shallow. But we deposited them all on shore, by making a Highland chair for them.

The tent was pitched in a nice little piece of level ground, and the ladies sat on the side of a hill, under the shade of an oak tree – all of us scattered amongst them – reclining at their feet. Luncheon was announced and we marshalled the Senoritas and Senoras round the spread and began the business of the day. I was seated between the Countess and her charming little daughter and did my duty like a Trojan, as carver, etc. The dowagers eat as only dowagers can eat. We had some toasts and much vive by the Senoritas – and then the damsels retired, leaving us alone – with the Spanish bucks. I should think the Spaniards had been starving themselves in anticipation of the picnic, for they eat in a most disgusting manner. We had a lot of toasts, and some of the bucks got very chummy. Whilst we were eating, the ladies sang outside as they promenaded the road – a small gravelly country road.

The luncheon finished, we joined the ladies and Foote, one of our Mids, having brought the ship’s violin, scraped away on it – playing polkas, waltzes etc, and picking up our ‘sympathetic’ girls, off we went tearing up and down the road.

One Spaniard, a horrid little fellow in specs, whom I shall denominate The Buck, being very tight, went on in a most idiotic style, rolling about and went over with his partner, so we walked him off and laid him under a tree. He had his senses about him, but his legs were gone – he grinned in a most complacent style as he was being carried off.

We went back and resumed our dancing, and kept it up for about an hour – the tea was brought round – and having sat and chatted a little while, we went down to the boat and with some little trouble got the ladies safely stowed. We were just going to shove off, when some one said, “Where is the buck”? – and then we remembered him under the tree and fetched him off; handed him into the bows of the launch.

We took to the oars and began to pull the boat back, when to my disgust I saw The Buck had got aft and was doing what he ought not to have done to a lady. So calling Nipper, who came aft, he took him by the neck and carried him forward again, his resistance was of a passive description – but, if not, he could not have done much, for most of the Spaniards had arms like an Englishman’s thumb. However, The Buck did not cause any row – so on we went, with a fine bright moon dead calm and the Senoritas singing in the stern – and viva us.

We stopped several times and gave them a song and then came a lot of cheering to the Senoritas of Vigo and so on. After an hour’s tiring pull, we arrived safely at the pier, but now came the difficulty for there being a serenade that evening the ladies wished us to pull them round the fleet, but most of us being very wet and tired did not feel up to it. We got out of the difficulty by turning them all over to Mr Hardy in the Aurora’s cutter, and one or two of our fellows going with them.

The remainder of us pulled the launch back to the ship – and having shifted – three or four of us got a gig and pulled back to the Aurora’s cutter, took some ladies on board and joined the serenading party which consisted of some 20–30 boats decorated and lit up with Chinese lanterns, one boat containing a band.

The boats having formed into some sort of order, began pulling round the fleet – beginning at the flag ship, which ship, followed by the others manned their riggings, nettings etc. and kept up a continual cheer; the serenading band playing.

It was a very pretty sight, the sea being like glass, with a clear sky and bright moon and the boats putting about covered with coloured lights.

Having pulled round the fleet – the party proceeded to serenade the flag ship, the boats surrounding her and band playing. The rigging was thick with the men, as well as the nettings and spars – and they gave the party three such cheers, as only English sailors can give and then kept up a continual cheering with clapping of hands. Blue lights were lit on board the ship and

leading boat of serenading party sent up rockets. The Admiral got cheered by the Spaniards, and he waved his cap etc. The poop was crowded with the officers.

The ladies of one little party wanted very much to see the Admiral, so we pulled close up under the stern, and pointed him out The little Countess got up and followed by the other ladies gave him three “Nias”, and waved their handkerchiefs etc. etc. The Admiral acknowledged their courtesy in a polite manner that he always does – and then the serenading party throwing up some more rockets, went to the next ship Endymion and the same cheering, blue lights at trucks etc. went on – and we following the other boats, serenaded all the ships in turn, finishing up by the little Helicon, which cheered with her small crew in a most gallant manner, and burnt blue lights.

Rougemont and some of the officers, who were on the bridge, asked us to come on board, which we did, and went below to the Wardroom, where we had playing on the piano – in which I did my little all – and the Countess then stood up very pluckily and gave us a song. She looked very charming.

After partaking of some refreshments and the Senoritas being decorated with ribbons of the Helicon, which we would not allow to be put over the L.W. ones, but round the throat etc. we departed and pulled them ashore, it being about 12.30 and had a painful parting on the jetty. We dragged ourselves away and looking on board the Aurora on our way, proceeded on board and turned in rather tired. So ended the Gun Room Officers picnic, which went off most successfully.

Left Vigo Thursday last at 4 pm in company with the fleet leaving the Helicon behind to bring out letters and papers Monday next. We steamed out through a fog, which seemed rather prevalent this time of the year about these parts. Last night I had just dropped off to sleep when I was roused up by the unwelcome sounds of the bugle for night quarters. So I had to jump out and rig smartly, having quarters to report clear. Nine minutes and a half it took to clear away – eight being consumed in lashing up hammocks. It was done moderately smart – when one remembers that after a ten minutes warning, the ship from being in quite a quiet state, more than half her crew asleep, guns secured, magazines locked, is in perfect fighting trim and ready to fight an enemy at once.

I don’t think that the English Navy can be touched as regards smartness by any other foreign marine – and it is to the Navy that England must look not only for safety, but actually for subsistence, for if her communications were cut off – I’m afraid she would be in a terrible state – shot with revolution and panic. She is like a ship provisioned for a certain time and no longer and requires constant replenishing, as my father so aptly expressed it, at the Merchant Taylor’s banquet.

The first time that I have seen a Court Martial take place at sea happened this morning. Aurora firing a gun and hoisting Jack. At 8 am Ships closed round us.

We have been drifting about off Cape Finisterre for the last two days, in the midst of fogs etc., changed by a slight blow on Sunday, which put us under treble reefs in the topsails. Last night kept the Middle watch, in the middle of a thick fog. We closed very near the Aurora, in fact so close that although we could not be more than two ships’ length off, we could not see her at all, but I could hear persons speaking on board of her, quite plain. We did not see the Helicon yesterday, when we were to have met her, for we were much too far to the Southward, so, we are steaming on an extended front up to the Northward.

We came in yesterday afternoon, having met the Helicon off Finisterre yesterday morning about 4 pm and I got my letters from Home and read them at 4.30. by moonlight – also got a letter from Grogan who wrote very nicely. Heard of Harry’s getting a nomination as Queen’s Cadet – and of Meta’s asking My Lords so gallantly for her brother’s promotion.

As soon as we communicated with Helicon we turned round for Vigo, and anchored in capital order about 5 pm – finding Invincible in here. She is like a troopship and in my opinion not nearly so nice looking as the Swiftsure. Heard of Borlase’s death, which promotes Dacres and some sub. This forenoon met several old shipmates from Invincible. Afternoon landed with Graves for a walk and did not get more than half-a-mile out, when we fetched to upon the railway embankment and had some fun with the navvies. Met Sholto Douglas and then walked in. Dined with Haran, Staff-Surgeon of the Invincible. Met Le Cocq and one or two others. They do not keep an over good mess, (although it is not for me to say so). Came on board early. Found immense excitement, among the subs as to who was to get it – but the Nipper seemed the favourite, betting being even on him, made a few myself.

Next day lunched with Haran and then went over the ship. She is dreadfully cramped on the upper deck – no room for the ropes to be worked – ropes of mainmast coming down into upper deck battery and obliged to be worked through doors – great height between decks – main and lower deck – ship well ventilated – good accommodation for sick – good cabins etc.

This morning the long looked for telegram arrived saying that Borlase’s death gave a death vacancy. Dacres and Napier got it. I must confess that I was rather disgusted after all that the Admiral had said. Anson and I went ashore and had a stroll. I called on the Countess de Villapanes [?] and paid them a visit. Found them all in dishabille, however I made them understand what I wanted. The Senorita looked so charming.

Came on board and found that Prothero and I were made Acting Lieuts. Paget going to the Swiftsure, vice Cleveland who goes to the Excellent. I, vice Paget.

Whilst looking out for Graves – saw the Countess and her party coming alongside and my agony can well be imagined, at not being able to take off my hat. Fortunately I was relieved, and then Perry and I went into their boat and stayed with them for about an hour. She gave me her address at Madrid and promised to send me her photograph and write me for I had given her my photograph the preceding evening, when in Admiral’s cabin. The terrible parting – I can’t describe it – may such partings come but rarely – however we parted, and the fleet got under weigh about 4 pm and I kept the 6 to 8 watch, with the second stripe on.

How lucky some fellows are – Dacres promoted – Commander at 4 and 20 – Napier 146 junior to me, jumping over 300 and odd. Dame Fortune – turn thy wheel and shower fortunes on me!

Off Lisbon, having just rejoined the fleet. We had fair winds from Vigo down to the Rock of Lisbon, running down under all possible sail, trying the Invincible and Swiftsure, and brought to the wind, on the port tack yesterday evening. Had the pleasure of wearing the ship in the Middle watch, we went round very well – with the exception of the fore top-bowline, which the Capt. of night heads did not let go and carried away the pendant. Lucky it was no worse.

The Admiral struck his flag this morning and went on board Invincible, hoisting it there. We parted company and made for the Golden Tagus – and anchored opposite the packet stairs.

Our motive for going in was to land a couple of men at the hospital. I, having the 4–6 watch, landed with several other fellows – and we got on top of a bus and landed at the Rue di Ouro, made for the rolling motion square and then, having made Denison walk on it, to satisfy his curiosity, went up to the Rue di Chiado – and did some shopping there. I had my hair cut at the French barber’s there, who did not do it badly. Missing the other fellows made towards the stairs. Secretary picked me up and gave me a lift in carriage and boat on board.

Tripped to anchor at 4 pm. It got across our ram, and gave some little trouble clearing it. Made sail to double reefed topsails and top-glt. sail, but soon took in the upper sails – for it was blowing very fresh. Our weather clew of fore topsail went, (the rope of clew) and we had to shift topsail – (hauling in brace and buntered, soon got sail in hand). Picked up the fleet at 9 pm. and our worthy chief came on board and had dinner, and it is to be hoped he made a good one.

Yesterday my charming cousin was married, after an engagement of a year’s standing. Meta was to be one of the bridesmaids so I hope that she will send me a long account of it. To-day is my mother’s birthday and I drink her health at dinner to-night, although in that unsociable fluid – cold water. The Swiftsure went into Lisbon yesterday morning to land a couple of scarlatina cases and rejoined this morning off Cape St. Vincent, the fleet having run down to it yesterday under sail. We have been firing all this forenoon.

Slight breeze on the beam, heavy swell – ship rolling. Instead of the Revd J. B. we had the Revd Smith this morning – not an over good exchange in my opinion. A drawling, weak, nerveless voice, for a manly decisive one, that J B had. This is the first Sunday in this month, that I have been able to attend service – having been on duty the others. Invincible, Swiftsure, and Helicon left yesterday for Gibraltar, leaving a squadron of only five ships. Sent a letter in by the Helicon to my Father – telling him of my acting vacancy, but I don’t think that he will be able to get any-thing out of it for me.

Steaming through the gut and about ten miles from Gibraltar, we shall probably get there about 5 pm.

Last Monday, there was a large dinner in the Gun-Room, in honour of Dacres having got his promotion. Six W.R. officers attending. It went off most successfully. Paul proposed Dacres’ health and he responded in a short manly speech – and we drank to our future Admiral Dacres, which will make the seventh in succession.

This morning there being a good Easterly breeze blowing through. We left the two frigates Aurora and Endymion to beat up. Helicon met us off Tarifa with letters – and the P & O mail outward bound passed us about an hour ago. Lord Walter Kerr, being seen on the paddle box, I could not make out either Hamilton or Blackburne – so I trust neither have come.

Half my hopes are dashed to the ground, and the other half not, for we found Lord Walter and Hamilton all ready to come on board so I had to leave my cabin, but not give up the stripe.

Hauled out from the mole after completing our coaling and anchored off the head of the Mole.

Monday – Went to the Gilbards, had lunch there, and then went out riding. Rode to cricket ground there being a match on Garrison v. Navy – found the latter winning. Then went on to the sands, and had a most exhilarating gallop.

Dined that evening with Capt. Douglas of Aurora, and nearly cut my mouth to piece on glass that was in some chutney. Pritchard and a marine officer called Sharp dining there too. Next day I was on duty and had a most fatiguing forenoon of it – all the Captains and Commanders of fleet coming on board.

The Mail having arrived brought out Blackburne, Commander of Swiftsure – so off comes my second stripe. I shocked the Commodore most dreadfully standing in the gangway – Officer of Watch looking through my glass – at the cutter coming on board and seeing a moderately old gentleman in stern sheets. I said to myself in a sotto voce, “I wonder who that old buster is”? I heard a reproachful voice at my ear say, “That old buster is Sir John Hay Minister etc., etc.” – and looking round, I saw old Phillimore looking at me like a dying duck in a thunderstorm. I could hardly contain my laughter.

Endymion and Aurora both went out – for England. I sent home letters by both.

Next day Wednesday and the forenoon of the following day, Thursday, I was away at Victualling yard, hoisting stores out of lighters to Dockyard, and I hoisted 300 casks and 300 cases up in that time – and with 30 men only. Considering that most had to be hoisted by three separate cranes and rolled along and stowed, it was not bad work.

Thursday afternoon, I got leave and went ashore to the Gilbards, went out with my Uncle for a ride and had a splendid canter on the sands. Met Col and Miss Gordon and had a long chat with the latter. The former is a most eccentric character and keeps his daughter very close, however I asked them on board and they said that they would come, which they never did.

Friday (yesterday) I was in charge of a party of 30 men (10 from three ships) on board lighter, to try and raise a French barque sunk near our ship. We got the slings fast, but on heaving on them the foremost one came away – so we gave up the job, it being dark.

Last night I went to the Engineers’ theatricals, the Gilbards both acting – War to the Knife. They both did well – especially Gilbard. Room was quite full – Betsy Baker was then acted – and I must say Betsy (Mrs Buckle) looked very pretty and charming.

The Fleet, except the Research and Helicon (left behind), left the Bay this evening for Malaga under steam making sail, and stopping engines, when round Europa Point. Feel confoundedly disgusted with the state of the Mess, we require an energetic senior member at the head of affairs – for, although old P – is a very good fellow, he is not the right man in the right place.

Anchored off Malaga yesterday afternoon, 11 fms, and veered to 7 shackles. Thirty two officers from the fleet including the Admiral have gone up to Granada. Until Thursday morning I remain on board doing Mate of the Main deck, and keeping Hamilton’s watch.

Went ashore yesterday afternoon for the first time and landed at the small Mole, that forms one of the horns of the harbour, and always is used as wharf. It being covered with articles of merchandise, principally raisins, it being vintage time at present. After strolling about the streets some little time, I made my way out to the iron founders and cotton mills, situated on the left of the town – about two miles out. After a most dusty walk there, crossing over the bed of a river spanned by several bridges – at present almost dry but for a little stream running down the centre – I reached the foundry and introduced myself to the Manager (an Englishman from Lancashire) and joining a party of our fellows, who were just going round.

The manager told us that at present, there were only 300 men out of 800 at work, the remainder being on strike. The International having something to do with it. He told us that when the vintage had been gathered in, most of the men would come back.

He took us first to the smelting furnaces, shaped thus, and explained that at the bottom a layer of charcoal is first placed – then two layers of ore – then charcoal and so on to the top – the blast pipe being at the bottom. The gasses from the charcoal are drawn through pipes under boilers, thereby heating the water to about 800 degrees and then passing through chimney is allowed to escape. The steam, which is raised in these boilers, is used to work a large engine, which works the blast, for some 8 or 10 smelting furnaces – so not a lb of coal is used, in working the blast at the boilers.

We then saw some mould run into, and iron bars straightened out – and going over the model room, we bade goodbye to the Manager, who told us among other things, that he had been there 38 years and that the foundry belonged to a family, the head of which dying some little time back – died worth a million and three quarters.

We next proceeded to the cotton mills which are close to – found more difficulty in getting permission to go round this establishment. Having got it, we were taken in tow by a Spaniard, who showed us round, taking us to every room and part – and we saw cotton manufactured from its raw state as when it is taken from the pad, until it is made into cotton stuff. The raw stuff, first passing round a cylinder, which opened it out, then winding round reels, gradually decreasing in bulk until the cotton thread is produced. To make the stuff, some six hundred reels are used, half the threads working up and half down, a shuttle passing between the two. The smell in the room where the starching process was going on, was enough to knock one down. I should think it was far from being a healthy occupation judging from the looks and complexions of persons employed – some 3,000, principally women.

Came on board to dinner, and then in the evening, I with half-a-dozen other fellows went ashore to spend the evening at Mr MacCullochs, banker, merchant etc. We found seven or eight girls there, all belonging to or connected with the family, and to dancing we went and kept it up, varied by a little singing, up to half past twelve. Each of us had his own particular chum – Helena being mine. We finished up by dancing Sir Roger de Coverley and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.

Got off about one fifteen am and had to turn out at four, for the Morning watch and consequently feel a little tired tonight, especially as I’ve been ashore all this afternoon walking in the Alameda with Helena, who I find is Hammet’s chum also, so we are rivals. However I’ve made running whilst he has been on day duty. She is rather nice looking and reminds one of the little countess at Vigo. Her photo which she gave me does not do her justice. Spent an hour at her house.

Have a most violent cold in the head so I must turn in. Could not get into the Cathedral today, it being shut up. Great fears of a revolution in Malaga. Last night on the courier coming in, there was a small row in the square – but nothing of importance. When we came off at one last night, the Alameda was full of soldiers, and streets being patrolled. In fact whilst we were dancing, we constantly went to the windows to see if there was any row going on. Fancy this in the 19th century. I thank my stars that I am an Englishman and not a Spaniard.

The day before yesterday (Thursday) it came on to blow from the SW sending a swell in. However, notwithstanding the wind and threatening of rain, Joe Wood and I went ashore and did some shopping, after doing which we called on the MacCullochs, about 3.30, and I’m afraid disturbed them at dinner. Joe Wood wanted to make a rapid flight of it – but I would not let him.

In a short time the old lady appeared, but I’m glad to say only to herald Helena’s and Katie’s entrance, and then the old lady disappeared so we had a long conversation together. I tried hard to induce them to come out on the Alameda at once, but they did not like coming, without a chaperone. However, they said that they could come out by and bye – so at last we had to go – but shortly afterwards they came out and we joined them. Helena and I exchanging photographs – a good deal of ne m’oubliez pas on the back of them. They told us that they would not be at home that evening – so we came off and told the rest of the fellows, who had intended going.

Yesterday afternoon I could not go ashore, and so left the field open to Hammet – for in a mild manner, we were rivals.

On the officers’ boat coming off, heard of a slight affray in which Foote, M’Alpine and the Parson figured, together with a Spanish thief. The former (Foote) figuring out as the hero. It appears that at 6 o’clock, just as the officers were going off, the Padre felt some one pulling out his watch – and turning round there was Mr Spaniard with it in his hand.

He seized the Spaniard, assisted by M’Alpine and said in his manly voice – “I’ve got you, I’ve got you”, and they were both marching him off when to their surprise, he wrested himself clear and made for some casks and cases, where he stood at bay drawing a most murderous looking weapon some eighteen inches long and with a most murderous look on his scowling and fierce face. He was surrounded by a lot of fellows, all not unnaturally feeling reluctant to rush in.

Foote however made a rush at him, and as the Spaniard made a thrust at him, he was seized by the wrist, Foote receiving a slight wound on the thumb. The scoundrel was then quickly disarmed and walked off to prison. I hear today that he has got a well merited punishment of a year’s imprisonment.

Last night a large party of us went to the McCullochs, getting there about 8.30 – Foote being unable to come. Found all the girls at home – and at it. Hammet and I went and I was fortunate to cut him entirely out. He solaced himself by going the pace with Annie Smith – Foote’s chum. We all stuck to our particular girls, the whole evening. Helena and I managed to get along extremely well together, and from what I heard afterwards so did the other fellows.

When the Helicons arrived, they were, I’m afraid, left entirely out in the cold. Mackay sang – and I must say he sang extremely well. He has a fine rich full powerful baritone voice and only requires training, to bring it out to perfection. After a most pleasant evening of balconies, corners etc. etc. we bid them good-bye at 12.30 with regret, for we all had found most charming partners and were loath to part, at least I can answer for one, if not for two.

The streets were patrolled all night by troops of Lancers for fear of disturbances. This forenoon Foote went ashore and bade the McCullochs goodbye bearing a billet-doux to Helena – and I hear made good running, whilst ashore.

At 4 pm the Squadron shortened in and went out under sail casting to starboard with a Northerly breeze. It is the first time that I’ve ever gone from an anchorage in an ironclad under sail. The four ships all went off very well – viz: L.W. – Swiftsure, Invincible and Pallas.

I begin to take more interest in my deck duty. Much more than I thought possible when first put on to it.

On our way to Barcelona from Cartagena, having gone into that port Tuesday last, and anchored in a small harbour on the right (entering); first having dropped anchor just outside the mole being built, but shifting into the small harbour at entrance.

I was unable to go ashore, but from all accounts I did not lose much, the town not being much better than Vigo and the country looked most bleak and bare. I should like to have seen the dockyard, which seemed moderately large – it is situated on the left of the harbour, up a creek. There was only one ship there.

That night it came on to blow, very heavy, barometer going down fast. So at 12 o’clock, fast asleep, I was rousted out and bent sheet cable – letting go J.B. and veering on B.B. Quite a lump of sea came tumbling in from the SW, to which wind this small harbour is open to. We were over a couple of hours getting the work done.

Yesterday the Spanish Admiral paid us a visit in the afternoon and went over the ship. Whilst the two Admirals were in the Engine Room some cock was turned on and both of them got saturated with water. And the main deck looked very well, although “it’s I that says it, that shouldn’t.”

The Swiftsure and Invincible hove in sight about 4 pm but remained outside and the Helicon also, which ship brought mails – of which I got one from my Mother.

The country is very mountainous indeed – being the Sierra Nevada Mountains. The harbour reminds one of Ferrol, only on a much smaller scale. The entrance is well defended by forts, placed high up and of double tiers, but I believe there are no guns on them, which is a drawback.

That evening we up anchor and away running before a SW breeze, all night, making 5, 6 and 7 knots per hour.

By my mother’s account, Annie’s wedding must have been a very successful one indeed – nine bridesmaids, and presents 100 and upwards. She is as yet the only girl I have ever met that I could really find no fault in her disposition.

Off Barcelona, having carried a rattling Westerly breeze right up along the coast sending the old craft along at times, to the tune of 7 & 8 knots. All yesterday we were steaming round a target, prize firing. The shooting first was wild but the men latterly settled down to their work and knocked away a couple of targets, so we had to finish our firing for that day, having only fired half our allowance.

I had the pleasure of sitting in the maintop, noting the qualities of the shots made. This afternoon we have been drifting about, and in towards the land. Barcelona being about seven miles off. A rather fine Spanish steamer has just passed and exchanged colours. At the last dip she let her tack go, and went through the fleet with flying colours.

All the forenoon, we were at prize firing, having got over half of it last Saturday. One gun this morning sent a couple of shots right through in succession and several others very close. Each gun has eight shots fired, two by Nos 1 and 2 – and 1 each by 3.4.5.6. Distance at first shot being given and the distance for the remainder being judged by Captain of Gun – and also they have to fire against time. One gun got over her eight shot in 7m 13 sec – not at all bad.

My deck quite disgusted me today, being in such a filthy state. I hate deck work and it is as much as I can do to make myself take zeal and interest in looking after it, but I brace myself to the task and manage it very well.

We came to an anchor close off the Mole about 4 pm, shortening sail just before we arrived at the anchorage. The Spaniards politely sent off to us, to say there was room for the Admiral’s ship inside the Mole. There are two Spanish Man-of-War inside there.

The town looks very large, and possesses a very large and fine artificial harbour, formed by two arms running out – the one in a Southerly direction – and the other in an Easterly direction.

Heard from Russell, who says I’m to get my promotion the end of this year, but I’m not so sanguine, as all that.

Seated in Pritchard’s cabin, I shall give to the pages of my journal, the impression made upon me, by the city of Barcelona, capital of Catalonia.

Denison and I intended going ashore by the 1.20 boat, but the last, being detained some short time, so as to hoist the Spanish Admiral out with all due, we took a shore boat and hoisting the sail, ran before the wind, up to the landing place Puesto della Paz – the distance being about a mile. The greater part of it being contained inside the Mole.

Two Spanish frigates are moored, by their sterns to the Mole; both wooden frigates, one being a frigate of the Jackass class. The Harbour contains a great deal of small shipping, packed like herrings in a cask, and it is a wonder to me how they manage to get out – supposing the vessel to be one of the inside ones.

On landing, the first thing that attracted our attention was the Rambla – consisting of a lounge, or, walk, some 80 feet in width, bordered by trees of the kind, and each side of it a carriage road running parallel with it, then the foot pavements and lastly the shops and houses – (the houses being tall and averaging four to five stories).

As the place looked full of people and life, we determined to first stroll up the Rambla, and did so, and truly we enjoyed it. The branches of the trees meeting overhead afforded us a welcome shade from the heat of the sun, as also affording a grateful relief to the eye, from the glare and sameness of the buildings. Looking to our right, or left, immediately beneath the branches, one saw shop windows, filled with goods of all descriptions and colours – and all around, numbers of people who seemed to be taking life very easy. We strolled along for about third of a mile, in this delightful avenue – when seeing – oh! ye gods – nothing more, or less than a tuck shop at the corner.

Denison and I, after a little mutual unwillingness to be the first to propose entering, entered and we did full justice to the contents of the Shop. Having finished our repast, we strolled into a large plaza, arcades running all round and fountain in middle playing away. Any amount of cafes in this plaza, and some fitted up very nicely and looked very clean. We then, from the plaza, went into the principal street and did that. We also tried to do the Cathedral but found it shut up. So, from another large plaza, we found our way on to the ramparts, or, sea wall and walked back to the beginning of the Rambla again – and the remainder of our time ashore, was employed in looking after photograph shops, etc. Denison got a very nice fan for 6 dollars.

The Prima Donna going sick stopped the performance of any Opera, so I came off, although rather inclined to stop ashore, and see the place lit up – it being very well lighted. I saw most of the principal part of the town, but had no time to visit the more instructive parts, viz. its Manufacturies – buildings, ship-yards, etc. – but, judging from the number of shops, ships, and warehouses. I should most certainly say it was a very well-to-do city.

I ought to mention that it has tramways laid down, along its principal streets and that the public conveyances are very good – and would put a London cabby to the blush. I feel confoundedly tired, so, I embrace the God, Morpheus.

At sea, ostensibly on our way to Genoa, but I believe there is a likelihood of our dropping the killick in Rosas Bay, to await arrival of Helicon.

We did not sail until 2 pm this afternoon. The Admiral hoping to hear something about the Admiralty, he having been informed on good authority, that there was a good chance of his being offered the refusal of First Sea Lord, Dacres having left the Board and taking Greenwich Hospital Governorship.

Last night, Farquharson and I determined to go to the Opera, to see Lucia di Lammermoor – and after dinner, at 7.30, we found ourselves in the whaler, pulling ashore. After narrowly escaping shipwreck from several barges, we reached the landing Puesto della Paz and strolling up the Rambla past the Teatro Principale – we fetched the Opera House, (the Teatro del Liceo) and having got an Entrada, paying a peseta for it, we entered the theatre and made our way down to our seats, and found them in the front rows.

We sat down and surveyed the House and its occupants and the upshot of my observations was, that it was a very pretty house indeed, not so large as San Carlo, built more in a form of a horse-shoe. It has six rows of boxes and amphitheatre stalls. The Pit only contains stalls – not badly fitted up, but most certainly not made for a fat person. The boxes are all open, and each box is fitted with a small retiring room behind which can be used for refreshment, flirting etc., so I was informed by Miss de Burgh. The stage is also not so large as San Carlo.

The singers last night were not over good and were not far removed from mediocrity, bar the soprano, who did not do at all badly in the last act. She was ugly and her voice not strong, nor high. Tenor bad and Baritone, not very much better – Chorus a great deal better than our old friends at Malta – Orchestra very good indeed – and one man, who accompanied all the solos on clarinet, played extremely well.

There were some not at all bad looking girls in the House. I paid the Hannays a visit in their box – and they showed me all the beauties and explained why an Entrada had to be got – viz – the boxes and many stalls were bought, so as to build the house, so, unless an Entrada was established, they would get no money to pay the singers.

The same people paid a visit to the ship, during the afternoon and I had the pleasure of showing them over the ship. Hannay is the consul here, and a drunken old Consul is he – stinks of brandy and looks like a bag of wine ready to burst. His two daughters, are not at all bad and only require more grooming to be very passable. Mrs and Miss de Burgh completed the party. They went all over the ship – wings, etc. Came off last night about 12 – the Opera commencing at 7.30 and being over by 10.30.

We set out under steam and sail casting to port – Invincible and Swiftsure have left the squadron for Malta, leaving us only the Pallas and the Helicon, which ship we expect tonight. Dined with the Admiral this evening – conversation on all sides, brilliant – Flag Lieut a great improvement on last.

I left Barcelona with feelings of regret. I’ve never seen any town that I like so well.

About due South of the boundary line, between France and Italy – bowling along at the rate of 8 knots, wind abaft the beam. So only being 140 miles off Genoa at noon today, if the breeze holds, we shall get in easily tomorrow. The breeze came on very quickly this morning, accompanied with a heavy squall. The land is on the Port beam, the Maritime Alps showing out bold and clear covered with snow which glistens splendidly in the sun. Some of our sharp eyed shipmates see Mont Blanc – about 180 miles off. Myself; I cannot.

We first sighted Genoa on the morning of the 5th. Its white houses and tall lighthouse making it a place not easily to be mistaken. On approaching close the town and surrounding country did look most charming. The town is built at the foot of, and on an amphitheatre – hills running all round the town – commanding it in a military point of view from every spot and I see the Authorities have not neglected the chance, for, on most of the hills are forts and barracks etc. Most of the side is also protected more or less by the same forts, and also by forts and batteries on the two moles.

We let go our two anchors between the Old and New Mole and put the mooring swivel on, and had hardly finished the work, when the Captain of the Port came off to say that we were in the fairway (and I’ve no doubt that we were) and we must shift our billet – but, we deferred doing so, until the next day.

That evening some 12 fellows went on leave to Milan and the Lakes, and I found myself looking out for Prothero’s watch. That evening Martin and I went ashore, landing inside the Old Mole. We walked up the principal street, or, one of the principal streets. It was well lit up and every other shop was jeweller’s shop. We looked into several and on coming to the end of the street, walked up some steps (for it was not a carriage road) and found ourselves in a large plaza.

We enquired for the Teatro Paganini and going in, took pit tickets – entered the theatre, and saw there was no sitting room, so walked out again changed our tickets for stall tickets, paying 4 francs, or, lira for them – and working round a passage, got into our stalls which were not very good ones, being in the first row, for 30 row is the best.

The House was nearly the size of the Malta House, – had six rows of boxes, 178 in all – Stage large. The piece was Il Trovatore and after that a ballet Shakespeare. Company from second to third rate – Tenor and Mezzo soprano good – Chorus and Orchestra very fair. Ballet very good – the dresses and music both being very pretty, They require a Lord Sydney there though, for, some of the girls might as well, as not have worn any dresses at all, for all the good they did. House was very fairly filled. An Opera Company is also going on at the Theatre Trazione – the large Opera House is not open yet. The whole performance was over by 11.30, 4 hours altogether. We got on board as quickly as possible and turned in.

Next day – Wednesday. We took off the mooring swivel, veered on both cables and hauled our stern in to the new Mole, securing it there from both stern pipes by chain stream, leaving a drift of about 3½ shackles from ship to Mole.

That afternoon, Martin and I again went ashore and had a good look into the shops, making some purchases. Got some very pretty coloured prints – 15 lira for 4 – and a few other little things. Went over the gardens, which consisted of wide gravel walks and drives, shaded by trees – but, I saw no flowers. The houses are very high ranging from 6 – 8 stories. Many large buildings, palaces etc., and most of these built of a white stone. More of our fellows went on leave today.

The harbour inside the mole is full of shipping and steamers. I’m told as many as 800 steamers come in annually. Counted 20 in, with their stern hauled into the Old Mole alone. The New Mole is not quite finished. Together, the two moles give very good shelter. Stayed on board last night and played whist. Been on duty all today.

Friday last. The Helicon came in bringing Lord and Lady Churston for us, from Marseilles. She moored close to us hauling her stern into the Mole.

Next day Saturday being my day off duty, I went ashore meeting Martin at the landing place. We then set out to get an order for the Pallavicini Gardens. First going to the Consulate, who told us to go to Pallavicini Palace, in Carlo Felice. We went there and were told to go to the Durazzo Palace in Via Balbi. We went in, and on going upstairs I saw a man at a table writing. Accosted him, told him what was wanted. He gave us a permit. We then went to the Royal Palace, and were shown over it. I did not care for it very much. The number of Palaces here is something incredible, and most of them are very beautiful inside. The staircases, pillars and flooring being of marble. I believe there are very few of them lived in by their owners, as they are generally let out in flats for families, or, for shopping purposes.

Wasted the remainder of the afternoon, dawdling about the town and came off early, by the officers’ boat.

Blowing pretty stiff all yesterday forenoon from the SSW and the ship, beginning to work a little, tried the stream cable pretty well.

Got hemp stream out and secured it to the Mole. In the afternoon I went ashore by myself and walked to the left of the town, and then struck up for the top of the ridge of hills surrounding Genoa. After a most tiring walk – I got to the top – and I must say, the view one got, when there, quite compensated for the fatigue, of getting up there. Looking over the top one sees a large and fertile valley full of small hillocks, covered with vineyards and dotted with pretty villas, wherever the eye was carried. Through this valley, ran a broad white water-bed, the sand of which glistened in the sun. Itself, it was dry, but for a small silvery stream meandering through the sand and finding its way to the sea – (It was a view to feast ones eyes on).

I then made a circuit round the ridge of hills, passing a number of small magazines (powder) with sentries at them and finally fetched into the town. Made a course for the Cafe Rossini –(Best cafe is one in the Via Nuova) and smoked a cigar there and had a look at the different people that came, or went.

What struck me most was the much more uniform politeness these people have to one another, than they have in my native land. Clean looking people, are these Northern Italians, better than the Southerners, and much better than those cut throat Spaniards. Came off early today – have been on duty, being my day on.

Steaming along, leaving Elba on our left – a mountainous looking country, it looks. We left Genoa yesterday forenoon, had a most miserable time of it getting under way – as it was raining the whole time, a steady downpour. Our S.B. got across the ram, and gave us some little time clearing.

The night before, Wednesday, all the tourists came back, from Milan, Florence etc, and of course were full of the lakes. Most of them had penetrated into Switzerland, as they went to the Lake Lugano.

Hammet going sick on Wednesday, let me in – being his opposite number – for keeping his watch – and prevented my going to the Pallavicini Gardens. Had show, close down to the Town, the last day of our stay in Genoa.

Passed Capraia, Garibaldi’s rocky home – and Monte Cristo a small island, forming the theme of one of the Dumas romances.

Steaming along at a slow rate of speed, wind from the Westward, lost sight of Corsica yesterday, and just made out a point of land, on the Italian side this forenoon. We ought to get into Palermo to-morrow, if Lady Churston will but induce her father to put on a little more speed.

Spoke to the Secretary about using his cabin at Malta, he was very agreeable, so if the Captain does not object, it will be very jolly for me.

We arrived here the night before last in company with the Pallas, but after all our eagerness to get in, we found was no Opera that night.

Next day, (that is, yesterday) I stopped on board, and kept the ship. Sir James Domville and his son Lieut Domville, the 1.1.1. man, dined on board with the Admiral. This morning the Brooklyn – Yankee frigate – went out under sail. She did not make sail over smartly. In the afternoon, I donned my plain clothes, and went ashore at 1.30 pm with my own thoughts for a companion. Walked up the principal street, out through the Porta Nuova, and then turning to the right, made for the Catacombs, in which the Capuchin Brotherhood place their deceased baked brethren.

Entering the gateway, before descending you first notice, stuck all over the walls around, numerous daubs, representing people perishing, from all sorts of accidents, persons throwing up blood, two men holding the basin; – others run over by carriages, carts, others again stabbed, shot and murdered, in various horrible and ghastly manners – and others again being placed in their coffins.

For what reason they put them up, I don’t know, except it is to prepare you for the disgusting sights that meet you, on descending into the vaults below, for there ranged tier above tier, and row behind row, passages running into passages, are some hundreds and thousands of these baked Capuchins – few in good preservation, most of them having little skin left, and all with a most ghastly and sardonic grin on. The most loathsome, were some children, dressed in muslin dresses, white kid gloves, striped socks and shoes – out of all this, a black, withered, shrunk up face looking at you. Virgins are placed in their resting places with golden crowns on their heads.

The best of the whole lot was an old dame standing upright, and looked as if she could count many grandchildren. “No Virgin her – I trow.” One old Bishop, has been there for at least two hundred years, and won’t keep his mouth shut, but lolls his tongue out at all passersby – so, as he will not hold his tongue, everyone that passes, is requested to do so, for him. I complied with the injunction and did what I shall never do again, viz, Pull a bishop’s nose and tongue. My companions, Heyland and Gregory, whom I met in this living vault, had more respect for the old fellow.

Ascending again into the clear fine air, we felt quite relieved and settling ourselves down into a fiacre, bade the driver to take us to the English Gardens. He did so, but after some difficulty in making ourselves understood, we found that these were not the gardens we had intended visiting, so we jumped into our fiacre again, and meeting a Maltese steward, made him explain to the driver, as to where we wanted to go. Found they belonged to xxx.

We soon fetched them, and alighting at the gate-way, an old lady curtsied us in. Entered the three Naval Officers – Old Man appear – Bow Naval Officers – Bow old Man – Naval Officers advance – Old Man still retires – Naval Officer No 1 cuts off Old Man’s retreat – Old Man then advances to Naval Officers 2 and 3 – Again all bow – With bows from all around. Everyone speaks in a language best understood by the speaker – Old Man begins to see our drift and we all laugh and the old man leading, we all follow. So ends this most strange and ridiculous pantomime.

First we are taken through some small avenues and past many pretty picnicking glades, and then we enter a labyrinth, and are taken up to a small hut.

I being the foremost of the party lead, walking up the three or four steps in front of the door, and had no sooner transferred my weight from the ground to the step than open flew the two folding doors and disclosed to view the figure of a wooden monk, dressed in the habiliments of a priest, waving its head and arms in a most threatening manner. On getting off the steps, the doors close again with a bang. Being well prepared for the apparition, it did not startle us – but, if, one was unprepared for it, there is no doubt, that it would startle a visitor a good deal, especially if seen in the dark.

Leaving the priest to his meditations, our guide again threaded his way through the labyrinth and took us up to another small hut, and opened the door. This time it was a monk sitting at a small deal table, who raised his head and waved his hand, waving us off, not wishing to be disturbed at his studies. Wishing him a long good night we walked round the grounds and entered a small glade, with a fountain in the centre, paths leading from this in the direction of the four Cardinal points.

Our guide dilating on the view in a most expressive manner, by his gestures insensibly drew us towards the edge of the glade and near one of those paths, he suddenly sang out to his villainous accomplice, who turned on the water, which came out in jets from the fountain to the edge of the glade and sprinkled us over. We turned and fled up the path, where we were saluted in a similar manner, by jets of water from the box, which bordered the path – and had to run a regular volley of jets of water, before we were clear. The old man was highly delighted at the complete success of the evolution.

Went to one of the hotels, and was accosted by a stranger, who asked me if I belonged to one of the English ships. I replied in the affirmative and he then introduced himself as Dr Shaw – brother of the surgeon at Malta Dockyard and asked me to take a letter down, which, I was only too happy to do as I’ve received much kindness from the Shaws at Malta. Dr Shaw introduced me to his wife and told me that they had come to spend the winter at Palermo.

I like this place, as well as any place that we have been to. It has two fine streets running at right angles to each other, intersecting at the centre. The street that runs East and West, on the Western side merges into a fine carriage road, shaded by trees on each side. It leads out to the valley on the West, and to the Favorita Gardens. There are also some very good public Gardens –besides possessing one of the finest Marinas in Europe.

The country is full of orange groves, and the town is not excepted. Consequently the air has a most delicious smell – which gratifies the sense most completely. The houses are tall, each story has its balcony; shops are fair; a great number of carriages rolling about and an innumerable number of fiacres plying their hire.

The Palermontaise are very busy working away at the Mole, lighters tumbling stones out all day. Cuiti is at the Opera here, but I hear is no great favourite.

We left Palermo Thursday forenoon under steam, in company with the Pallas and met the Bella-donna yacht outside (Slingsby-Bethell – owner). We stopped, to allow him to come alongside in his gig, to chin-chin with the Admiral.

Next morning (Friday) we had rounded the Western Point of Sicily, and found ourselves opposite to Marsala, which from the sea appeared a very compact and fine town; but these towns being built of a white stone, are very apt to deceive one – for, on entering them, you find narrow dirty streets, with few large buildings in them.

The country around Marsala low, with small ridges of hills. The country is fairly cultivated, from seaward it looks bare, but this is from its being Autumn and the vintage gathered in. Passed several large towns, and arrived opposite the small seaport of Girgenti, the latter town being inland, and the whole of it can be seen as it is situated on the brow of a hill. The ruins are about a couple of miles from the town, and consist of the very perfect remains of a temple, etc.

Sunday – November 24th. We steamed into Malta harbour, getting in shortly after 2 o’c pm, and then commenced the work of getting the double moorings in. We have them taut up by the 7" wire pendant. Altogether the mooring etc. took us about two hours. After supper, we set to work again for some 50 fms of chain had to be got coiled up out of the way, and then the deck had to be cleaned, so, after all that was done, there was little of the Sabbath left.

Next day, I was busy on the Main Deck forward, unshackling the bower cables and paying them down, and superintending the port one. I ordered the Ldg Sea. attending the hook rope to take two turns – with it round the Bitts and turned away. He thought otherwise, for, I hearing a noise, turned round, saw he had thrown off all turns, consequently the cable had taken charge. I jumped to his assistance, unfortunately he let go at the same moment, and my hand dragged round the Bitts. Seeing that I could not stop it, I let go and tried to get clear of the hook-rope, but, it caught my right foot and capsized me up like a nine-pin.

Most providentially the cable had all got to the bottom of the locker, otherwise I might have got into a serious fix. As it was, I got off with a sprained ankle and a few abrasions on the hand. For the next week, I hobbled about on crutches, and found the ladders were a great nuisance, and if I had not had the use of the Secretary’s cabin, I should have been in a great fix. Well for a week, I lived in this way, it then struck the doctors that I had much better go to the Hospital. So, Monday the 2nd inst. I came to this palace, and have been here ever since. I’m very comfortable.

I had a little trouble at first for, with a strong appetite on me, I was put on half diet, but eventually I got put on full diet, which is more than enough. What I dislike here, is the way things are done. 4 drams of tea is not more than sufficient for two cups of tea and the butter only suffices for breakfast. Your sugar is brought wrapped up in a piece of newspaper, that you do not know from whence it has sprung. The doctors are not at all a bad lot – Mason, Robertson and Lambert.

We had a visit from both Admirals Yelverton and Inglefield – the latter had just come from a court martial on Morshead, a Sub-Lieut for getting drunk at his hop. I hear he nudged Inglefield under the fifth rib and asked him “Wher’ol the ices”?. It was a great nuisance, for there were a lot of Yankees and Swedes there. I believe he has suffered from sun-stroke and can’t stand much liquor.

Here endeth another week in the Hospital, and I don’t think I shall be out for some little time yet. No letters today by Mail. Feel dreadfully savage with dear Meta, after all her promises of repentance, in her last letter to me about not writing regularly. My beloved parents, alarmed I’m afraid by my having used an Anamnesis, for my first letter telegraphed out the day before yesterday to Mason, who replied, that I was in rude and robust health. I hope they were not very much startled by my unwitting error.

A very small batch of Commanders and Lieuts made. I hope it is only the vanguard of the main army and that I may bring up the rear. Poor old Paget has been missed over again, we are all very sorry for him.

Everyone is very full of the Naval Ball which is to come off on New Year’s Day. I’m glad to say, that I shall be clear of all that. Had a good many visitors up this afternoon and made the acquaintance of Sir Victor and Lady Houlton yesterday, who came up to pay a visit to Monty Wodehouse and got well wet in doing so. When I asked Sir Victor, if the porter at the gate had said anything to him, he said “No, I suppose he was struck with my dignity.” I could barely keep my countenance, but for all his pomposity, I believe he is very good natured.

The Ballerina yacht has not arrived yet. I’m rather curious to see the Codrington girls, as Meta has told me so much about them.

Very little has occurred to vary the monotony of Hospital routine during the last week that is worth recording. I’m allowed out in the Gardens, which is a great boon. Had a heap of letters from Home, Friday last – plenty of condolence and commiseration. I’m glad that they can’t see me, for otherwise I should feel quite guilty and ashamed in getting so much pity, for such a slight accident.

I was very sorry to hear of my grandfather’s illness, for he is a good age and it does not do to strain the old ship too much – and my dear little Cousin Lily – tormented with rheumatism, just as her holidays are commencing too.

The Cambridge, gunnery ship at Plymouth broke adrift from her moorings and danced about the harbour – and I believe brought up alongside the dockyard. In fact there has been very bad weather in England – and out here too. A steamer turned clean over, off Pantelleria – in consequence of cargo shifting. Two hands lost, who were down below at the time.

Bully Hall is here, 2nd mate of a small steamer. On his way out, he managed to run a barque down, and sink her, whilst on watch, but I hear that he can clear himself of all blame.

Mason has stopped our tea parties. He happened to be showing a flock of ladies round and broke in upon us, the party including the gigs crew, besides Wodehouse and myself.

Very near the end of another year, another long step towards our grave – already I’ve taken two and twenty – and if good health befriends me and it pleases the Almighty to allow me – I may take another fifty – and it would be well sometimes to look back and ponder on the manner of our making this short march, that is to prepare us for a long eternity. For myself, I can answer, that they have been taken in a most careless manner, not thinking whether I should be allowed to take another, or whether my next step would be into the grave; and I trust that knowing this, it may make me trust for guidance for the future on my God and my Saviour.

The last week has passed, similarly as the one before – going into the garden and reading, or with a cigarette with any fellows that came up. Wodehouse went down to the Inglefields, and stayed there until yesterday – returning to this place.

Christmas Day we had afternoon Service in the Hospital Church, a very meagre attendance. We all dined together, six invalids and a remarkably healthy-looking lot. The Hospital Authorities gave us the old established English Cheer, viz, Turkey and Plum Pudding. How the ½ diet fellows tucked into it. In the evening, I went down to Mason’s and dined with him, Wells being the only other guest. A most dull evening – Two such prosy old boys. Mosquito came in from the Westward.

The Mail coming in yesterday, brought me many letters from home. My father working very hard for my promotion.

Kerr died Monday last, poor fellow not a friend near him. He had been in a delirious state for the last ten days in consequence of secretion getting into his blood and thereby affecting his brain. He was one of our little party up here, was invalided and went home yesterday in the Crocodile. Barley discharged and I going tomorrow will reduce the party here considerably. Tommy Brandreth paid us a visit and was most gracious, and told us about the Hercules running into the Northumberland and making a hole six feet by two under water – the latter ship only saving herself by means of her compartments.

At last I’m on board again, having left the Hospital last Friday, late in the afternoon, and between that day and this I’ve nearly managed to sprain my ankle several times.

Saturday – not having taken on my deck, I made calls on everyone, from the Admiral down to my tailor – and finally spent the evening at the Shaws dining with them – a Miss McLeod being there, rather a jolly girl.

Sunday afternoon I walked round to the Hospital and called on all the Doctors and the Matron – and walking up the Gardens met the whole lot of them coming out of church. They were rather surprised to see me come dancing up. I found Monty Wodehouse had gone to the Halletis [?] and Pengelley up; Moss rather worse.

Walked back to Spencer’s Monument and after dining on board, went to the Barracca Chapel and heard the Rev Sydney Clark preach a very nice Sermon. Afterwards went to see the Office fellows, who live at 49 – Piazza something or other, Floriana. Found them all at dinner, waited and had a smoke and chat with them.

Took on duty this morning – find there is lots to do and few hands to do it with, but I shall work hard and keep Lord Collingwood’s letter to Lane in my mind.

I begin to feel the weight of debt, having to deny myself every trifle, however necessary – and want a pair of boots, laced ones, very much, but my horrible debts say No – you must chance spraining your ankle again.

35 Subs promoted and 8 special – Can I be one – I fear me no – for, I should have had a telegraph if, I was promoted. The thought of seeing all those dear faces at home again, but it is a bad thing to nurse expectation and then to throw it to the ground. Wynyard in Growler is one and Graves goes to her, for time.

Hear wonderful accounts of the Grand Naval Ball. It must have been a splendid one. Everything about it in Naval Fashion – guard of blue-jackets for Governor – field pieces etc., driven in their dresses – stars of swords and cutlasses shields round ball room, with ship’s devices and flags to any amount, – boys rigged up in new pumps and hats and white rig, taking programmes about – 900 and odd people were there, dancing commenced at 9.30, and was not over until 5.30 am. Admiral etc. remained at Club until the last dance. The ‘Little Cruises’ came in Saturday evening. Find any amount of shipmates on board Cherub, 1st Lieut, – Taylor, Rawson, Duke, etc. Paid them and their Capt (Bedford) a visit today.

Off the island of Hydra, steaming 6 knots in company with Swiftsure, Pallas and Research.

Last Wednesday evening I went to the Opera for the first time this season, making use of T.B’s box. The piece was La Favorita – singing poor – a Mrs Reid, an American lady taking the part of prima donna. Her husband, I hear has lots of money, and she goes on the stage merely for amusement, and without remuneration. She has a nice voice but weak. Proni the baritone was good.

Met Ward who had come out especially for this trip, he taking passage in Swiftsure.

Thursday (9 Jan) afternoon we slipped our moorings, having embarked Lord and Lady Churston and three soldier officers, and commenced steaming at 5 knots, which we have been doing ever since – making sail when possible. Passed Capes Matapan and Malea yesterday evening. On the latter dwells a hermit, his dwelling being a small white-washed cottage. Ships passing sometimes stop and supply him with provisions etc. Cerigo was also passed, one of the Ionian islands under the lee of which we had to take refuge in the Rapid, summer of 1871.

Dined last night with Admiral, a very pleasant party and a rattling good dinner. The Main Department is getting on very well. Am very pleased Tommy has given me v.g. for everything.

It is all up a tree with me this time, for on going aboard the Rapid to visit the fellows last night, I heard of the fellows who were promoted and found myself not amongst them.

I found all the Rapids well – several of them on the point of starting for the New Year Ball (old style) given at the Palace. There were a good many officers went from the fleet and they all say it was a most dull affair, only some 50 ladies to about 800 gentlemen, and our fellows were not taken any notice of, including our dear old Admiral.

They were completely left out in the cold (so it appeared). It may have been from political reasons, the King not wishing to be observed, by the many prying eyes of other nations, to seem to take any particular notice of Great Britain’s representative – (it appears he gave the Admiral a private audience). Montagu, Capt. of Rapid, is a great friend at the Palace. There is a Russian corvette in here, Admiral Botakoff’s flag flying. He has been here now some six years. Greek ironclad Olga, wooden with iron belt round water line, battery not protected. French despatch vessel Desaix, a yacht formerly belonging to Prince Jerome Buonaparte. I suppose our next papers will have the Emperor Napoleon’s death in them.

I have to record one of the saddest accidents that has happened to anyone connected with, in the shape of being a messmate and friend, that occurred today to Roger Martin, Mid. of this ship. Denison (Sub Lieut) and Roger went out this forenoon about 11.20 am in a sailing boat, taking the boatman with them – and also taking guns. At the time they left there was not very much wind, but, it sprang up quickly, coming in puffs from the Northward.

It appears that they were on the port tack sailing about, Martin having just taken the helm, and Denison the gun, preparing to shoot, and keeping it under cover, as there was some bobby on, and the spray was splashing over the bow – when a squall struck the boat, she dipped her gunwale under water, and went down, like a stone. Roger putting the helm down, immediately she was struck by the squall – but she would not feel it. The boatman said in broken English “keep clear of the thwarts” and they found themselves in the water, about ¾ of a mile from the nearest shore, it being the weather one, and no boat near.

They began calling out, but it was to little purpose. Roger saying something about, (and seeing the boat-hook floating,) “trying to get hold of the mast” and then by degrees they separated, the boatman saying there was ship in sight down to leeward (about 3 miles) – it being a large fruit boat, some dozen men in her.

“I was up to windward, and the boatman and Martin to leeward, the former to my right and the latter to my left and facing to leeward. I did not think of being saved by the ship and faced up to windward looking at the lighthouse ashore, and got my mouth full of water, several times. I tried floating, but found my head went under, and then kept on paddling, looking round several times and seeing two heads in the water, some distance off. At last, I lost sight of them and thought them both drowned. I did not think I should be saved, but kept on paddling and getting very numbed, and weak, in my struggles, at getting my coat and waistcoat off, and effort to get my boots off, the latter of which I failed to do and gave it up.

Finally, I got in quite an apathetic state, and I suppose was rapidly losing all consciousness, and would have gone down; when I was picked up by a boat sent from the large fruit vessel, which had beat up to within half-a-mile and then lowered a small boat, having previously picked up the boatman, in the same state, and finding him clinging to the rudder, every-thing else having gone down. We cruised about some time, and I think Martin must have gone down in about 10 minutes after the capsize – he not being strong and having on plain clothes. I was in the water, about three quarters of an hour.”

On Denison arriving on board about 1.30, steam pinnace was sent to try and find the body, grappling for it, but came in at dark unsuccessful – the water being 25 fms deep. I was ashore when I heard the sad news. We all feel his loss very much, indeed, it has cast a gloom over all, for he was a general favourite. Poor Roger, I liked him very much, and did not know until proved by his loss, that this liking had grown into affection. The many expeditions we made together, at Naples, Genoa and elsewhere, rise up in my mind and I see his familiar face, in which there was something very taking.

It is needless to say how glad we were, that we had not to mourn for two of our friends and Messmates – Denison being saved in a most providential way. He must have been very near Death’s doors and must be very thankful for his escape.

I have much to put down, my two visits to the Acropolis on Saturday and Sunday – the Royal visit on Friday – the latter of which, I will begin with.

Thursday the 16th was noted for the many visitors, in the shape of Ministers, Admirals, Captains, etc. I had the honour of showing the French contractor (yclept Feraldi) round the ship together with his wife and two daughters, one of them rather pretty. They were very anxious that the Admiral should give a Ball. After 4 pm I strolled ashore to the gardens and heard the Russian band play. 24 in the band and all but one play brass instruments, however they play very soft.

Friday the 17th was the day of the royal visit. Their approach was heralded by a royal Salute fired from the ships in port, who manned yards etc. We had four of our good looking Mids for Side-ways, two of whom went down the side, as the royal barge came alongside. The Admiral received the King and Queen at the gangway, the Captains and Officers ranged along the quarter-deck – bands playing, etc., and the royal guard presented arms, etc. Lady Churston was introduced, with her husband or, rather I should say welcomed the royal pair.

They first went round the Lower deck brilliantly lit up. Then round the Main Deck and went aft at which the port battery and after pivot manned their guns and went through a variety of evolutions very well indeed, the guns being knocked about. Preparing to ram pleased them very much. Her Majesty fired off the port battery by electricity.

They then went on board the Swiftsure. The royal Party stayed about an hour, Her Majesty firing off a couple of torpedoes, which threw up a large column of water. They next proceeded to the royal yacht to shift for dinner.

The King is slight, fair, light moustache, about 5 ft 9 in in height, no great strength of mind is portrayed in his countenance. The Queen is very nearly as tall, fair, a nice rounded figure, with a very jolly face, which I call very pretty, also a lovely complexion. They both look young, and one would not think, that she has four children, she being married at the age of 16 – in 1867, the King being 22 years of age at the time.

They came from the yacht at 6.30 to dine with the Admiral, in company with several other swells – Duke and Duchess of xxx, Lady Agneta Montagu, Mrs Stewart were asked to meet them. 25 sat down all told, including six ladies.

The dinner was a splendid affair, it had been three days preparing, so it ought to have been. The first toast was given by the King to our most august Majesty – the next given by the Admiral to the King and drunk with all honours and three hearty cheers, then followed one to the Queen drunk in the same manner – and finally the King returned thanks in English – for both he and his wife speak English.

Then the whole of the Royal party adjourned to the Poop – a reception being held – then music followed, and the Queen led off in a waltz with Montagu. The rest followed, The Admiral danced, and they all kept on changing partners. The King danced very well, but not so his wife. Then followed Sir Roger de Coverley, into the mysteries of which the Admiral initiated their Majesties. They got quite excited over it and kept it up for a long time. The King doing his best to whirl the Queen over. The Admiral kept trying to cut others out.

They danced starboard side of poop, and the port side was occupied by a crowd of Naval officers, admiring the evolutions. Then after the dance of Sir Roger, came more waltzes, some glee songs by the blue-jackets, a clog dance, acrobatic tricks by a Malta stoker really very clever, then Capt. McLaren, 74 Hussars, danced a sword dance, and did it very well and very prettily. Finally Her Majesty asked for Sir Roger again, and they all danced away and kept it up for a long time and with great spirit and it degenerated into at last a regular romp – all of us the port side keeping time to the music, with our hands and feet.

At 12 o’clock they took their departure, the ships lighting up with blue lights, firing Salutes and cheering their Majesties. They must have thoroughly enjoyed themselves, throwing aside all reserve and stiffness for the nonce.

On Saturday last, that fatal Saturday that robbed us of a pleasant and genial messmate on that day, I started early with Bunbury to visit the vast ruins of past, ruins of a nation that may almost rival the Jews in pointing back to their antiquity. We started at 12.30, Bunbury with a guide book in pocket and I with my mind pretty well stocked with the history of this vast wreck – and touching at Rapid on the way, we got ashore in time to catch the 1.10 pm train, paying about 8½d for our tickets each – 1st class.

We took from a quarter of an hour to twenty minutes to do the five miles from Piraeus to Athens, passing on our right, a large flat piece of ground, on which is erected a statue of a Greek General who lost his life in 1828 or thereabouts, in the war for independence. We also had encamped on it some 20 years ago, several thousand troops, the cricket ground is there now, about a mile and a half from the town.

Next, a view is got of Phaleron Bay, with the royal bathing place there, and a branch line running down to it. The water and sky looked so blue and pretty, with the rounded outline of some islands in the distance. Everything so clear and harmonizing well. We next passed over the Cephissus, which was quite dry, although now winter. A bend in the line spread out a glorious view of the Acropolis, from behind the Musaeum hill (so-called from the poet Musaeus) on which is situated a Monument to Philopappus, Roman consul – and (a grandson of King Antiochus II of Syria), which stands out very prominently.

Arrived at the station, a miserable thing to call a station for a town like Athens. We fought clear of guides and such like would-be friends for the time being, and turned to the right, walking towards the Temple of Theseus situated on an eminence, to the Northward of the Acropolis. Had a good look at it. It is comparatively perfect, and possesses 34 columns, the marble has got quite yellowish – from time. The metopes on the South side are partly remaining, the others are gone, some Goth no doubt knocking them off. It was built in 465 BC by Cimon, son of Miltiades, one of the ten generals and the hero of Marathon – built in honour of Theseus, and the metopes represent the combats of Hercules and Theseus.

We did not go inside to see the fragments of statues, not having time, and also because there was no particular interest attached to them at any rate not connected with any history. From Theseus, we went along the level flat then over towards the Observatory, built on a large mass of rock, a spur running out to the Eastward. At the South of this spur, and close to the end, is a slope down which the Albanian ladies slid, when they were barren and wanted children. I know not, if it was efficacious. On the top of this spur, can be seen remains of foundations of old Attic dwellings

From this rock we went on to the Pnyx, on the right of the valley. Walking up the road, on the hill to the right, is the Pnyx, which means condensed. It is a large terrace, hemmed in on the Eastward by a stone embankment some twelve feet deep consisting of large stones and running round in the form of a semi-circle, its centre being to the SW of it. The western part is shut in by the rock, cut down in a smooth surface. This face of the rock does not run in a perfectly straight superficies, but forms an angle (barely perceptible) at a point, about equidistant from each extremity.

At this point stands the remains of the Bema or pulpit, from which Demosthenes harangued, and spoke those speeches, called the Philippics, when he incited the Athenians to rise up and resist the encroachments and power of Philip and Macedonia. Looking from the Bema, and seeing the remains of the Temples that must have been simply magnificent in his time, one cannot wonder at his appeals being successful. One can almost imagine his appealing to them, showing them these glorious buildings, Monuments of their greatness and liberty – and asking them if these, the rich inheritances bequeathed to them by their forefathers, not much more than a hundred years before, should own any other lords and owners, than they themselves and their sons.

In the erection of this Bema the Spartans and their instruments the Thirty Tyrants, had taken care that the orator should not see the water, on which the Athenians had gained their most splendid triumphs. The old Bema, from which probably Pericles and Themistocles spoke, is higher up, to the S Westward – the Pnyx would hold some 6000 people. The Musaeum hill is next to it, but, we did not cross to it. At the foot of it are several caverns, called the Prison and Tomb of Socrates who drank hemlock somewhere about 400 BC for teaching so-called false doctrines.

We next went across to Mars Hill, a large rock, with two platforms on the top – at the NW of Acropolis and close to it. I rather think the ground to the SW of it, formed the Court of the lower Areopagus, of the 500. We went up the 16 self-same steps that, it is no presumption to say, St Paul went up by and found ourselves on the higher flat of the two, on which sat the highest court of appeal in Athens, and from which St Paul preached to the people in the Agora below and around, that Sermon, on the altar to the Unknown God.

We got a good view of the town and the great square palace – ugly enough. It wants a colonnade run along its West front, to hide the lower windows and then half columns, from the colonnade to the top. It might then look decent. Mars Hill, we crossed over to the Acropolis, entering by a small postern gate, the old way being between two square towers, that is now blocked up.

The Acropolis is a huge mass of rock, barely a quarter of mile long and about half that in breadth. It has a wall surrounding its Southern, Eastern and Northern sides. On the former, put up by Cimon, Bunbury and I could see clearly here and there a broken pillar put in, to build the walls. It is called the Cimonium Wall in honour of its builder.

Western sides – and the Erechtheum to our N. East. We followed the route of the Panathenaic procession, as of yore and coming up to the Erechtheum, entered it. The cella has three porticos, its Southern being that of the famous Caryatids – two only of the originals remaining, and those mutilated sadly. I doubt if their makers would recognise them. The Southern portico is in the most ruinous condition – the Northern portico is the best – it also possesses a most perfect doorway, the frieze on it being little injured – and the roof of this portico being also, pretty well preserved.

From the Erechtheum we went on to the Parthenon, entering it by its Eastern entrance, Its platform is xxx feet long by xxx feet wide and stands on a platform ascended by three steps. It has a portico, both at its Eastern and Western entrance – gigantic pillars (Doric) running round its four sides – and at each end of the cella.

Over the triglyphs at Eastern entrance, marks on the stones show where shields have been hung up – and at the Southern side, are nails on which garlands were hung up.

I could not do justice to this Temple by my description, so I shall refer anyone to any of the numerous books and histories noticing it. It was built by Pericles, in 400 BC or thereabouts – and in it stood Phidias’ great work of art in the shape of a statue some 70 feet high, made of gold and ivory, by direction of the people, Pericles asking them which it should be, marble or ivory?

The point of Minerva’s spear, glistening in the sun, could be seen afar off by sailors – and was always hailed by them with joy. I ought to mention that Alaric was frightened by it, from plundering the Acropolis.

A curious circumstance connected with the Temple of the Minerva Pallas, or the Erechtheum, is that the priesthood of it remained in one family for 200 years, although subjected to live a life of celibacy. Before leaving the Acropolis, we had a look at several friezes, statues etc., one of the latter, a part only, just outside the Propylaea on its South side, were the strident legs of a man, executed by Socrates.

Leaving the Acropolis, we passed by the remains of Herodes Atticus’s Odeum and Theatre of Dionysus the former erected by Herodes Atticus, an Athenian, who discovered a large treasure trove in his grounds. He wrote to Hadrian and asked him to accept of it. The Emperor, rather taken by this wily move of the Athenian, refused and told him to spend it as he liked; consequently he built this Theatre and embellished his native city in many ways.

On to the Temple of Jupiter Olympus, sixteen columns out of 120 only remaining, the Turks having burnt the remainder for lime. They are of the Corinthian order – one column has fallen down as gracefully as a lady at a Ball – all the pieces having separated, but, all in line and in good order. The proper thing to do there is to smoke a chibouque and have a cup of coffee, under one of the pillars and ruminate on its past greatness.

Close to this temple, is the River Cephissus, and on the opposite side of the river, is the Stadium partly excavated. We then walked into the town through Hadrian’s Arch, and on to the Temple of the Winds, leaving the Lantern of Demosthenes on our left. The former is an octagonal tower, with coarse figures on each quarter, representing the winds. The latter is rather a graceful little thing. We did not visit the Ancient Agora, of which a few pillars of the gateway only are remaining.

On arriving in the town, met Shillington, who told us the sad news of poor Martin’s death. We came down by the 5.30 train and got on board in time for dinner.

Yesterday, Prothero and I went ashore for a stroll, round and over the Acropolis.

Yesterday afternoon, the fleet got under way in a very good style and we steamed along 5 knots. This morning we were off Cape Malea, and went within 600 yards of it. The old hermit that lives there, came down to the point, and (stood over some broken arches) waved his hand in the direction we were going and began singing. It is to be presumed that he was singing for us to have a fair wind, as it was against us. He lives in a small round whitewashed cottage on the western side of the cape and some 500 yards from the end of it. A great many ships stop and land provisions for him.

We had not proceeded any great distance, before we saw a large French steamer, as we thought ashore, but it appears had broken her shaft. We then left the Pallas to tow her into the Piraeus and then go on to Malta, so I expect they are growling rather, at being done out of their Corfu trip.

Arrived in here Saturday night, ten o’clock pitch dark raining hard and blowing pretty stiff, from the SE. sending us along 8 knots. Found the Hart in, and I got letters from home. Next morning (Sunday) as we were much closer tide [?] than was pleasant, we up anchor and moored further in towards the town, anchoring in 16 fms and veered to 6 shackles.

Everyone full of going pig-hunting to Albania. One party of six fellows from the G.R. started Sunday night, having been lent a yacht for two days, and for the remaining six days they encamped out. Two more parties started Monday – Hammet’s party expect the expenses for the eight days to come to £5 each.

Hamilton of the Rapid, who I had asked to take passage up here to us, left yesterday for Ancona, in one of MacIver’s steamers. He travels 2nd class and it will cost him £20 to get home. I don’t expect the Admiralty will reimburse him at all for, according to the last order, they will not pay the usual two-thirds passage money – but, make you await passage in a Man-of-War, which may detain one for weeks. It is evidently done to make fellows pay their own passage, for My Lords know well enough, no one cares to hang out in a ship, on half-pay. It is such orders as these, that counteract all the good feeling and contentment engendered by other great and useful acts, such as the University at Greenwich, which is a capital thing for us all and is just what is wanted.

Went to the Opera, a few nights back, the Vice Consul having placed at our disposal half-a-dozen boxes. The Opera was Ruy Blas. House miserable, scarcely bigger than the Gibraltar House, and company very poor, the soprano had a good voice, required training. All the women were very full bodied – their breasts swelling out like a topsail full of wind. There were a great many people at the Opera – the boxes won’t hold more than four.

Yesterday the Commander and Paget went over to Albania shooting, the latter came back in the middle of the day, having fallen down and ran a thorn into his right eye. It came out on his coming alongside but it is feared he will lose the sight of it. The Commander came back later on having had good sport, hare, duck, woodcock, snipe, etc. He shot 37 birds off his own gun. No boars were seen.

It rained heavy all the forenoon, and part of the afternoon, but notwithstanding the state of the weather, we got up a paper chase – at least Corry in the Swiftsure did. We met at the George Hotel and walked out to the University and at 2.15 we started off, Corry, Adamson and Fleet being the hares. After a quarter of an hour’s start, we, the hounds followed and soon after doing so, down the rain came, drenching us to the skin in less than five minutes. Over fields, sodden with rain, hedges by no means easy to push through and on to the road leading away to the right over a bridge and then making a detour round to the left, through a wood and more swamps, we came to the river, over which we had previously crossed by the bridge, and in we plunged. It was running swift, very dirty, about 30 feet wide and up to one’s thigh. After coming out of the river, the scent lead us through a bog and a lane, the amount of dirt being something incredible. However we had a drag through it and then through more wood, swamps etc., and on to the road again, on which we kept for about two miles and then turned off in the direction of the One Gun battery and finally into the town.

The George being reached about 4.45, all of us wet through, but we had a capital run of 2½ hours, covering 10 miles, equivalent to about 16 or 17 in fine weather. We had gone to the right of the town and then making a circle round, came in by the left of the town. In some of the villages through which we passed, the population turned out en masse to see us passing. Came on board, had a scalding hot cup of coffee, and shifted and have got off very well with only a slight sore throat and cold. The name of the river through which we waded was the Plaine.

Walked out to the One Gun Battery, Friday last with Perry. It is a delightful little walk of about 2 miles, well wooded each side of the road, the whole way. The Battery, or what remains of it, looks down on a large lagoon from the height of about 200 ft. Opposite to it is a high mountain, on the side of which is the village of Garema [?], well worth going to, on account of the view to be seen from it. But even from the battery it was a very pretty view, overlooking all the olive woods and plains beneath – and the great beauty of Corfu lies in its not tiring the eye, by its sameness. For there are plains, and woods, and mountains, all looking very green and pretty and contrasting one against another and then on the opposite side of the sea, lies the high great mountain range of Albania, which looks arid and bare in comparison to Corfu. The more I see of Corfu, the more I regret we ever gave it up, more especially to a people who can’t appreciate having the possession of it.

Sunday – I went first over the citadel which is in a dismantled condition and has, at present, a garrison of 200 men; and then I went to the English church (Mr Hughes) which goes in at 3 pm and can’t say I was very edified by what went on there. After Service walked out to the convent where the remains of Count Capo d’Istria rest, President of the Greek Republic assassinated in 1831 by a Greek fanatic. There is a slab put up to his memory.

Came on board early – Wizard came in about 9 pm bringing mails – Had a letter from my father, who gave me the particulars of the Aurora’s row – and to me there seems to be no doubt that it originated from want of tact on Sargeaunt’s part.

Left Corfu the day before yesterday, with a fair wind, which gradually drew ahead and this morning we shortened sail and put the ship head to the sea, there being a good swell on – and ship rolling very heavy, 37° in one roll

Last night, I could not get a bit of sleep, in consequence of the gear smashing. One of our small guns took charge, and jumped out the carriage – Admiral’s dinner went down the lee scuppers, much to the disgust of the cook. Our Mess only lost its soup.

After all our rolling and knocking about here we are at last, swinging round our great 3 inch moorings and likely to remain for some little time.

We came in Saturday forenoon, and took in the moorings, if anything dirtier than ever and just as the mate of the Main Deck was beginning to wash down, all hands left to Out Boats and they remained on deck more or less all day, leaving me few hands to do anything on the deck. However, by dint of mixing blacking myself and working hard got things on the main deck in order for Sunday.

Sunday, I made for the sod landing at Corradino and walking round to the Northumberland, I found Lindsay not on board, so I made for the yacht Ballerina and going on board found all the Codringtons on board surrounded by a posse of visitors. They were all very agreeable but I did not stay long as their cabin was crowded. Attended the Barracca Chapel and then went over to dine with Dr Shaw, to meet Capt. Alexander, who told me it was my own fault not making myself earlier acquainted to him. Had a chat about my people.

This afternoon after work, shaped course for the Canteen, had a game of fives, then off to dinner and dressed for the Opera.

Monday evening went to see Traviata, a new prima donna making her appearance, Beatrice Amore, she was not bad looking, and had a powerful voice, a little inclined to the hard. She could not act a bit and it was great fun, seeing her acknowledging the plaudits of the audience. It was very evident she was not accustomed to appearing on the stage.

Yesterday we coaled ship and did it remarkably well; getting 260 tons in during the first two hours and the whole 500 tons in, in five hours.

Thursday afternoon landed at the Dockyard and shaped course for the Northumberland and found my old shipmate Lindsay on board. We proceeded below and he then introduced me to Mrs Reid, the American Prima-donna here. He showed me a painting of his betrothed, she did not appear as if she was a great beauty judging from the portrait – and Lindsay had the honesty to say it flattered her too. However the father has the dollars, which is more to the point, but Joe can’t get him to shell out, so it is rather a nuisance – and the marriage is postponed until he does.

Walked round by the head of the harbour, had to dodge the showers. When I got round to Valetta, I made several calls on the big wigs and did it in a most dowdy rig too – in fact, I was nearly bowled out by the Admiral. I was writing my name down, when I heard his voice and step approaching, so it was a case of down pen, and run for it. I hope he will be able to make my name out.

Thursday evening, I went to the Opera in company with Lindsay and Denison – to see Don Giovanni. I liked the music very much indeed – Mrs Reid looked most charming. Sat out the latter part of the piece in the Codrington box. Think Nellie and Annie very charming. Yesterday afternoon (Friday) I took the whaler ashore and brought off Mrs Reid and Col (that is her husband) and in company with Wood, shewed them over the ship. She is a bit of a Yankee, but great fun.

Last night I went to the 74th dance and nobbled Nellie C. – before anyone else got hold of her. Asked for half-a-dozen dances, she very kindly gave me four, – she looked very nice and dances superbly. I think she looked better than Annie C. It was a very good dance – I left at 2.30.

This afternoon (Saturday) landed in my skiff and met the C’s. Shopped with them for a couple of hours (in which like all petticoats) they hauled everything about, much to the shopman’s disgust. I came off to dinner, my feet wet through and the seat of my trousers dripping.

Dined last Sunday evening with Major and Mrs Russell 13th Hussars, Morrell’s Hotel – Spent a very pleasant evening. In the afternoon, landed at the canteen with Cecil, saw the Colonel start off on his bicycle, and then walked round the head of the harbour and out to Pieta, inspected the hydraulic lifting dock, heard a piteous tale from the keeper of the said dock, about the loss of his son, the only accident that occurred the whole time of building. He told us he was going to put a mark up, thereby insinuating to us that we might assist, gave him a 1/– to make a mark down his guts [?] .

We then after doing this most charitable action, went to the Club, and I went on to St Paul’s. Met the Codringtons there and walked down to the boat with them. Asked Church to delay the sailing of their yacht a few days, he promised to do so.

The Ballerina sailed yesterday afternoon, for Syracuse and Corfu, Sir Henry having put five Maltese on gilding his yacht. I bid them goodbye Tuesday afternoon. Went on board Italian packet and saw Barnett and McAlpine off.

This afternoon proceeded on board Invincible and danced away the afternoon – the Misses Samuelsons being great fun and not dancing badly. Walked round the harbour last night with Cecil (Lord Francis) doing it easy under an hour from the Club to Canteen.

Friday and Saturday afternoon fives – and Saturday evening (last night) as 4 G.R. officers were invited to the Maltese Casino San Giovanni to a dance, I went to represent the ship – and danced away for a couple of hours on a stone floor until my feet nearly dropped off, with Misses Borgs, Caruanas and Salvos to any extent.

One Miss Caruana, a fine big girl regularly took charge of me and we dashed through the people – for the room was crowded with Maltese, no English being there – my scales making a fine gangway.

The refreshments fetched me properly, tea and sugar plums, with a bottle of brandy and some fruit, and it was owing to that last mentioned article of food that Miss Caruana quite killed the growing love that was springing up within me for her. I offered her refreshments, but she refused everything excepting an orange; a Mandarin? “No – a blood please.” – I got a blood, with a lurking fear of what was coming.

I put it on a plate and was on the point of cutting it up for my fair partner, when she stopped me and with a most winning smile said – Would you please peel it for me? Now anyone who knows what skinning a blood orange is, will know the nice little task she set for me, my hands clothed in nice white gloves. However I had to say I should be delighted. (May I be forgiven the crammer I told). So it was a case of off gloves and skin away. By the time I had finished my hands were in a most disgusting state, sticky and wet with orange juice and she never even said “I’m sorry for the trouble.” I took good care not to ask her to refresh herself again. There were a great many masks and dominoes there last night and a good many fancy dresses. It was a very mixed party.

I nearly made a blooming error last night, walking along Strada Reale. I saw before me what appeared a Rear Admiral with a lady on his arm, looking into a shop and appearing in great perplexity. I was on the point of going up and offering my help, thinking it was Adm. Inglefield, when this distinguished officer turned round and disclosed the features of Zammit, our G.R. servant. I made all possible sail, away from him.

This forenoon the mail came in and brought me letters from home, all well I’m thankful to say. This afternoon Cecil and I went out to Malias and had something to drink and came back meeting a good many masquerading figures, this being the first day of the Carnival. Attended the Barracca this evening – and intend turning in early, as the dancing on a stone floor makes one awfully tired.

Monday last being the day on which a large fancy dress ball was given by His Excellency the Governor, to which I went, as did also some 1200 other people, a great many in costume. I got there early so as to see the march past, of Lady Seymour’s and Lady Houlton’s quadrille parties, the former set made up of English and the latter of Maltese. Both sets looked very well, Lady Seymour looked very pretty as she came in and Lady Houlton came sailing in, like a large line of battleships under all sail.

One of the Miss Samuelsons rigged up like a Welsh peasant looked uncommonly well. Le Strange as Mephistopheles and Walker of 28th as Father Christmas and Ramsay as a Saxon soldier were very good. I spoke to the latter some five minutes not knowing who it was. We were all bundled out at 2 or a little after. I could not get anything to eat, a very scanty spread laid out. The Maltese distinguished themselves very much by laying in a sea-stock of grub, for Lent – and they pretty well cleared the table amongst themselves.

Next evening (Tuesday) dined early and with Cecil went to a ball given by the Maltese at the Casino San Giovanni. We found ourselves amongst the earliest, but the people very soon began crowding in. Miss Caruana amongst them. I pretty well filled up my card with her name. We had great fun, the dancing being kept up with great fun and spirit. Miss Caruana distinguishing herself in the dancing line. I found it awful fagging work dancing on the stone floor. It was all over by midnight, Lent beginning then.

On Wednesday evening dined with Dale of the Cruiser, Mortimer of the Pallas being the other guest. He gave a rattling good dinner – departed at 1 am going away a richer man by 4s 6d gaining it by whist.

Yesterday afternoon (Thursday) went ashore to St Lukes Bastion, to which place the rank and beauty of Malta flocked to see the troops assault some outworks of Floriana, they being defended by the Artillerymen and Fencibles. Could see nothing of what was going on, but heard of lot of guns going off.

The day before yesterday in company with Cecil and Hext, paid a visit to the Wachusetts and Wabash, the former a sloop and the latter a fine frigate. The former mounts 9 and 11 inch small bore guns, 6 large ones. She was not over clean and the men did not look overclean either. The Wabash was in dock. She is a double banked frigate, guns along her waist and mounts some 50 odd – all 9 inch smooth bore with the exception of two rifled guns and one pivot 11 inch. Being in dock one could not expect her to be very clean.

The decks are low and very clear overhead – very few pumps, no Downton pumps, only chain pumps. The men mess generally on the deck, not being allowed to use their tables and the men looked a very rowdy lot altogether. Their big boats are stowed in the nettings, also stowing two in the waists. She has patent trusses and hoists in heavy weights, so my informant said, by her yards up to 9 tons.

Dreadfully behind in my Journal. I have had such little time to myself during the last week, dining out, Rowleys and Gordons, and spending my evenings on board the Wabash which ship sailed this morning in company with Wachusetts. The Wabashs gave a dance last Saturday, a very pleasant affair. The officers are a very decent lot, the best I’ve seen to wit, Wood, French, Jack Fremonte. I smoked away several evenings there. Took the Shaws over Wabash this afternoon.

This forenoon during the dinner hour the flag-ship subs had their photographs taken, a good deal of difficulty was found at first in doing so, in consequence of the fellows all grinning like Cheshire Cats just at the moment when it was highly necessary to look grave. However eventually after several shots, the photographer succeeded in getting a fair one.

Walked up to the Hospital with Prothero and saw Pengelly and several others. There are 16 officers up there. The Ariadne came back this forenoon, her Captain and Paymaster sick with typhoid fever, she is in Bighi Bay. Attended the Barracca Chapel and then walked round to Shaw’s and smoked with him until 11 o’clock.

All ready for slipping tomorrow morning. Yesterday I made my round of official calls, finding no one at home. The great talk of Malta at present is the engagements of Capts. Campbell and Dawson to Misses Noble and Daniell, for although there are so many eligible young men and women here, few engagements come off.

Just come in from firing and (not long risen up from playing a game of whist and winning 16 points). We did not go out on Wednesday as there was a little wind, so put it off until today, and went out at 7.30 this morning, and after firing in the forenoon and drilling all the afternoon, came in about 5 o’clock. I was going to dine with Tommy, but having a cold in the head I did not think it would go well with a dinner party so asked J.B. to excuse me.

Danced away yesterday afternoon on board the Pallas it was a very pleasant little hop; inclined to be warm.

Wednesday afternoon, the day we should have gone to sea, I went to the races with Cecil and they were not up to much, half-a-dozen horses doing all the duty. Lost half a dollar; not a very a large sum.

During the last week little of interest or importance has occurred. Heard from my mother yesterday who told me Rose Stewart had got married to Mr Harvey, 42nd, in a quiet sort of elopement manner. At present a northerly sirocco is blowing bringing rain up with it, so there is no boating. Spent last Sunday evening at the Shaws and promised to get Madame some cocoa, which promise up to this moment I had quite forgot – worse luck to me.

More subscriptions, Regatta and Rifle match. Malta is about the worst place for subscriptions. Yesterday lunched with the Manns, met Mrs Courtenay there she looked very nice and greatly improved since last summer. After lunch we proceeded to the Palace to hear some amateur singing and taking the generality of singers would not mistake them for professionals. This afternoon had the Reids off to tea, they sail for Italy Tuesday next.

Lunched today with the Manns and then we went on to see the croquet ground. A brooch and a pair of earrings played for, presented by Capt. Buchanan, on his leaving the island. They were not of the best taste, being very flashy.

Heard from Annie a few days back, she seems very happy and made ten thousand apologies for leaving me in the cold so long.

Yesterday afternoon played at fives all the afternoon and later on went out skiffing.

Last night paid Willoughby a visit and had a rubber of whist, lost the sum of 2/–. Sunday last spent the evening at the Shaws. Everyone very full of the coming Regatta.

This morning whilst sitting in the Gun Room, a telegram was brought me, I opened it and heard the welcome intelligence of my being promoted and also a request not to make it public. Now I put it to any disinterested person: how I was to conceal such a fact? The G.R. was pretty full and everyone saw the telegram come in and knew it must either be good or bad news and watched my countenance, whether a long face was drawn on, or a gleam of sunshine passed over it. Well I can swear the first did not occur and all but swear the latter did, for a shout was raised and congratulations poured upon me from my messmates in a most hearty manner before I said a word. The secret was out so I was not going to make a mystery out of very little, so I owned to the soft impeachment of being promoted and forthwith told the Captain and Commander, who congratulated me very warmly. Ultimately, I saw the Admiral who spoke very kindly in the usual manner.

I can hardly realize the great pleasure of seeing all my family again for I felt that pleasure tenfold more than even at my getting my step. If I’m made in a batch I shall jump over about 70 and at any rate have gained a year in time, at the best least being just three years seniority. I’m second senior in the Mess and the only one that came out in the ship as a Sub.

Attended the Barracca this evening and heard a very good sermon from Sidney Clark. Have been ruminating on the ways and means of getting home.

Pulling regatta came off. Paul and I the only two pulled in the skiffs. He headed her, but in rounding buoy I cut him out and came in first, and not sorry it was over, won 2/6 and my own entry – better than nothing.

Dined last night with the Admiral a small party, Mrs Carpenter, and Lady Gertrude Talbot, Barnett, Le Strange and staff being there. A very pleasant dinner after which some of us went to the Opera and saw Jones.

Our dance came off yesterday and was a most successful one. Some 500 people came off and the ship was very nicely done up. The sailing regatta also came off but was not a good match, in as much as soon after starting the wind fell very light and the boats came in very late, more by ‘jigging’ and ‘bucketing’ than sailing.

This afternoon the launches went away sailing again and our two came in first by half-a-mile or more.

Friday last the Italian mail brought papers with the announcement of my promotion in them, so yesterday I called on the Admiral, who was very civil and told me he should send me home by the Crocodile, which is due tomorrow morning, so I shall be home in a fortnight’s time, or less.

Dined last night with Phillips in W.R. and then he took me to the Opera, it being Conti’s benefit night. The house was very full and Conti acted splendidly notably in Don Carlos and Crispino e la Comare.

Have got the xxx and can’t get rid of the beastly things – how I got them I don’t know.

On way home, passed Galitas this morning. Steaming 9 knots so tomorrow week we ought to let go the anchor in English soil.

Tuesday night the trooper came in to Malta and on the following day I joined her for passage, paying full passage money, 7/6d wine excluded. I consider it a great shame, for I must come home somehow or other.

We sailed Wednesday night at midnight getting clear of the harbour about 12.30, having to use a tug to slue her round, as her head pointed right up the harbour. Yesterday we passed Pantelleria the scene of the Lord Clyde’s disaster.

The saloon is very full, as many as eighteen ladies taking passage. Miss de Graves an old acquaintance of mine and Capt. Parkin’s sister-in-law is also making the trip, as is Gertrude Shaw who is going home under a Mrs Travers’ care who has daughters numerous in number. The ship is full of invalids since the ship left Bombay, as many as eight men and one woman have died, one man dying last night and being buried this morning.

Steaming away 10 knots and about entering the Straits of Gibraltar, which we shall pass tomorrow forenoon. Up to this morning we have had a splendid breeze right astern from Friday last. Bringing up rain yesterday made it a dull day, for everyone had to vegetate in the saloon most of the time and the ship rolling somewhat made sweet faces look sour, and sour faces not sweet. The ladies stowed Musselbank aft the whole evening and I managed to kill time by reading Peter Simple and playing Grab and Beggar my neighbour, two very interesting and exciting games.

This morning the rain cleared off and everyone trooped on deck for fresh air. We had church on the troop deck – most of the eighteen ladies being there, added a good deal to the vocal part of the service. This evening more singing by the ladies in the lower tier of cabins.

I find it hard work getting through the time. Captain Parkin won’t let me do any duty, as he says I’m on half pay, although Captain Brandreth asked him to let me. Eat, drink and sleep is the order of the day. I sit at the table up at the ‘skey’ end. A Major Smart on my right, who looks at life on its Council side. Opposite Col Boothby who makes furious love to a Miss Swinhoe. Next the latter, a dry old stick of an Army doctor; at the head of table Dr Telfer, RN, who thinks more of his guts than anything else, and a few other amusing characters sprinkled round.