HMS RESISTANCE

[Broadside ironclad]

1873: On leave with family at Devonport - At sea in Devastation - Visits London - Visit by Board of Admiralty - Prince of Wales at Holyhead - Joins Resistance - Winter at Lisbon and Madeira - Chapel of St John, San Roque. 1874: Visits Vigo, Corcubion and Arosa Bay - At Plymouth with family - Visits London with father - Trouble with Russell - Summer cruise around UK, Portland, Milford Haven - Visit to Liverpool - Arrival in Mersey - Mayoral party - Visits to Belfast, Lough Foyle, Glasgow, Western Isles, Stornaway, Scapa Flow, Aberdeen, Edinburgh and Sunderland - On leave - Mother's operation.

1873

ARRIVE PORTSMOUTH – ON LEAVE

7 May – Wednesday

Next morning (Sunday) we came into harbour and lashed alongside jetty, found the yard very full of shipping. My old ship Minotaur paying off, having been going since the beginning of 1867. Sultan in dock and lots of other ships. Some old acquaintances, some new. That afternoon paid a round of visits to friends. Found Mrs Parkin looking very much fatter.

I went to the Hermitage and asked to see my cousin Lily but before I was allowed to do so, Miss Moore the schoolmistress, gave me at least a quarter of an hour’s sermon about making love to my cousins etc. etc. Said my letters were much too affectionate and that she always read them first. A frightful remembrance flashed across my mind of having called Miss Moore a she–dragon and a few mild epithets. I thought, shall I bolt before any more revelations come out or ought I apologise, but fortunately for me she settled all my doubts by ringing the bell for Lily, who came in looking very nice.

I jumped up and said “Cousins may Kiss, Miss Moore I suppose” and before she could express either dissent or assent, the deed was done. Miss Moore’s face at being outflanked in this way was worth beholding. She paid me off though by not leaving the room during the whole visit and with another kiss at parting (not to Miss Moore) my visit came to an end. That evening I spent with Foote, who with Farquharson and Rawson go up on the 23rd inst. for Gunnery. Packed up and turned in.

Next morning (Monday) started at 7 am for railway station, and got a 3rd class ticket 16/– for Plymouth. Left at 8 am. Had a row with a lot of legs [?] about the language they used, some women being in the same carriage, appealed to their feelings, or what stood instead of them. Fetched Plymouth at 6 pm and home at 6.30.

ARRIVE DEVONPORT

Yesterday, introduced to Capt. Fellowes, my future chief. Lord Gilford has also offered to take me as his Flag – paid a round of visits yesterday and met White who, with his little sister, is staying here. Made a tour of the yard with him and we had a long chat about old times etc. Had Admiral Macdonald dining with me last night.

10 May – Saturday

Last night spent the evening at a Mr Dunning’s, clergyman, meeting some 30 other people there. We began the evening with singing, then a set of lancers, then more singing, more lancers, old Mr Dunning by that time having taken a drum and beating the time. More singing, then alas for morality a waltz and gallop – which we young fellows took the opportunity of getting up, on the old people having gone into supper.

This morning we were startled with the news that a fire had broken out in Agincourt which is in dry dock. We rushed down and found fire had broken out in fore store room, a lot of tow having caught, a man going in there with a naked candle and letting it drop. Some three feet of water having got in, the fire was shoved out.

12 May – Monday

Today I begin my studies. Mathematics with a Mr Rae and French and music, so my time will be pretty well employed. Yesterday went out for a walk with White, after luncheon to the Pennycomequick Cemetery to look at Willie’s grave – but found it was open every day but Sunday, the very day that people can get away and have a look at it.

Admiral Key advises me to go in for Gunnery, if I don’t mind the drudgery of it. That I don’t mind, but I should like to be a seaman too. How to reconcile the two, at present, seems hard.

16 May – Friday

Tuesday last we had a big dinner of sixteen, three Admirals and six Post Captains and two Lieutenants, a regular naval dinner. Beresford was very amusing and is a very good representative of an Irishman. The dinner went off very well, lots of life and fun notwithstanding the number of stripes. It was given in honour of Captain Fellowes, who is soon going to leave. My father proposed his wife’s and his health in a very affecting speech, to which Capt. Fellowes responded in the same strain. After dinner Miss Frazer, who had dined with Meta, sang. She sang very nicely having a very sweet soft voice.

Next day (Wednesday) Meta and I joined a picnic party given by Captain Fellowes – eight ladies in all. We left the Dockyard at 11.30 and soon passed under Saltash Bridge with a splashing flood tide. Landed the ladies at Pentillie Castle (for a run) and then shipping them again, steamed away up the Tamar (had a most substantial lunch) reaching Calstock about 5 pm sticking on the mud several times, during which I proceeded ahead sounding, in which interesting position a Mrs Bacon took a sketch of me. We reached the Weir Head at 6 o’clock and running the boat ashore, we landed and had a look at the Salmon Trap, and soon after proceeded on our homeward journey, setting to at a good dinner as soon as we had fairly started. After which we had singing etc. and fetched down to the Dock Yd at 9 pm having had a delightful day.

Last night, dined at Sir Henry Keppel’s another big Naval dinner given in honour of Capt. Fellowes, at which speeches were made and after dinner songs etc. Beresford was chaffing my Father about singing and saying he would assist him etc., little thinking he would do so, when my Father struck up O the Shamrock and raised a splendid laugh against him, for on turning round and asking him for his help in the chorus, he was unable to give it, and was completely extinguished.

17 May – Saturday

Yesterday forenoon, a large party of us, including 2 Admirals and 9 Captains – Sir Harry, my Father, Captains Fellowes, Hewett, Heneage, Herbert, Alexander, Adeane, Napier, Wilson and Comdr Bridges, went out in Vivid to Devastation, which soon after commenced getting under way. 10 minutes from time ground chain came in, to anchor being [?], 7 mins more before fished, and 30 minutes altogether before F’cstle was battened down and ship ready for going to sea. She has four Trotman’s anchors.

There was a breeze of from 5 to 6 and little sea. However when she was shoved head on 12 knots, she threw the water about most magnificently, washing the F’cle down. She rose slightly to the swell, what there was of it; but my opinion is she is not a safe vessel to send across the Atlantic, although I’ve no doubt she would safely fetch across 99 times out of 100.

Below she is very nicely fitted up with very good accommodation for both officers and men. She is ventilated by means of steam, in fact everything is worked by machinery, she had 13 sets of engines.

Last night (Friday) dined with Meta on board Northumberland with Capt. Fellowes, more speechifying. Met Lindsay who was also dining there. After dinner we adjourned to the stern walk which was very nicely cornered in, and had singing and smoking. We had intended to go out in 42 drag [?], but the weather being unpropitious stopped us. We had a bathing party – Lord Charles – Edward – Rus and myself, but finding it was too cold, or rather gave us all colds, we had to knock it off.

19 May – Monday

Heard a capital sermon from Mr Tredennick at St John’s Church. He is the only man that I could with pleasure hear continuing his sermon after the usual quota. This forenoon my Father and I went out in the Hecate, one of the monitors, and steamed outside the breakwater trying her times of turning under different circumstances; Captains Fellowes and Herbert being the other personages present.

We then tried a plan of Capt. Fellowes’ for lowering a boat; the slips have a long link at their end, which goes into a corresponding slot in the keelson of the boat, a long bar running along the bottom of the boat and (worked by a handle by a hand on after thwart) is then moved and catels [?] the slings. We tried her several times and found it answered very well.

22 May – Thursday

Had a most distressing scene with Meta, both on Monday and today. The Gilbards came yesterday by Tamar, a most wet day. Went out to the Sound three times, to see if they had arrived, not being able to see from shore, if she had arrived or not, it being so thick.

The lodgings we had taken such trouble to find out, they did not like, and moved on to the Hoe.

23 May – Friday

A most successful launch was the launch of the Modeste, launched from her slip by my sister Meta 3.30 pm with some 9,000 people as spectators, about a 1,000 less than when Frances launched the Amethyst. We had a large party on the platform and Meta did it very well. The ship looked very pretty as she glided away amidst cheers and the band playing Hearts of Oak, she has an uncommonly pretty figure head and nice cutwater. After the launch, we all proceeded to the Northumberland as the Captain and officers had given a luncheon, and then a dance which went off very well.

24 May – Saturday

Paid calls on 42nd Regt, 2nd Queen’s, the Marines and on old Dunning – during the afternoon. In the forenoon went out to the Park to see the Review of 3 Regiments, some volunteers, artillery, Yeomanry and Marines, the 42nd marched extremely well and looked a very fine regiment. The Yeomanry were on the most unkempt looking horses it has been my lot to see for some time.

Meta, Frances and I went to the saluting point, meeting all the big–wigs there; but my Father and Mother and rest of the family went to Admiral Keith Stewart’s house, as the Staveleys had not sent tickets to the Dockyard people for the bastion, as they ought to have done, and when asked to do so, refused. So my Father refused to go to the saluting point as he was representative of the Dockyard.

26 May – Monday

Edward brought the 42nd dog cart round to the house and drove Russie and I out to Mannamead where we picked up Bertie and gave him a little fresh air. He was looking very well.

28 May – Wednesday

Went with Russie to the surgery and saw Doctors Saunders and Browne who had a look at Russie’s ears. I afterwards had a long talk with Browne, who said there was a possibility of danger, but agreed with me that the great hope was it had been going on 13 years and was getting better. I put some burnt alum [allium?] in his ear, giving a change from the tame [?].

This afternoon walked out to Pennycomequick cemetery and saw Willie’s grave which looked in rather a dilapidated condition. Gave orders for its renovation.

Heard from my dear cousin Annie who wishes me to stay with them now, but I’m afraid that horrible dross will be the cause of my refusing, as it will cost some money to go up to Liverpool and stay there some time.

29 May – Thursday

Sir Jno. Hay came down this evening to stay for a few days.

30 May – Friday

Went with my Father to witness the launch of a life-boat called the Clemency presented by a person called Hubbard, a nephew of Sir Jno. Hay’s, who had been in the service and died some little time back. The Bishop of Exeter was there and made a very touching and forcible speech, as did Mr Hubbard. Miss Clemency H – could not break the bottle, essaying to do so several times. They must have picked out one of the very toughest they could have found. Capt. Ward at last had to step out and do so. The boat went off very well indeed. She was taken round to the Victualling Yard and there turned over several times, righting herself and ridding herself of water in about 20 secs.

31 May – Saturday

Sir Jno. Hay left this morning for town, after a big dinner last night to which Basil Napier came.

1 June – Sunday

Took the Communion this forenoon the first time for some three years or more.

Monday – being Whit Monday gave Russie a holiday from the bank, so we both taking sandwiches with us and bicycles went over to Torpoint and spun along the road for 10 miles stopping at the Turnpikes for refreshment. We did drink a lot of milk, quite cleared out one old lady’s cupboard. One mile we cleared in 6 minutes, but I’ve no doubt that we did quicker than that down some of the hills. We started at 11 am and were back before 4 pm doing 20 miles and stopping half–a–dozen times. The three towns are very full on account of this society coming down. Plymouth and Stonehouse are prettily decorated and illuminated.

3 June – Tuesday

More ships to be got ready for the Shah, making 11 in all from this port. Went to the Royal Adelaide for about five minutes, not staying longer as it was so crowded.

4 June – Wednesday

Went to another dance on board of the Impregnable. It also was very crowded, but I danced right through the programme, as my Father wanted me to make myself as agreeable as possible.

6 June – Friday

A grand naval sham fight took place in Barnpool, the three brigs, boats and a defending party all of boys. After the fight was over, the boys formed line and went through manual etc. They did everything very well and looked very nice. Dined 42nd Mess this evening with Grogan.

7 June – Saturday

Russie and I went and had a Turkish bath and I should think they were very poor in comparison to the London ones. I had a tremendous hunt after a stud, I dropped in the room, but ultimately found it. After dinner went up to the 42nd Mess and had a smoke with Edward.

8 June – Sunday

Heard a capital sermon from Rev’d. Tredennick; subject on the Trinity. Had an exciting argument before going to bed.

11 June – Wednesday

This evening went with Russie to an evening party at Jacky Stevens. Met a number of young ladies there, some of whom were rather nice looking, to wit Mrs Rundles’ daughters. We had a capital high tea and after tea singing.

Paid Mr Cole, the dentist, a visit this forenoon and the fellow stopped two of my teeth, for a wonder not hurting me.

12 June – Thursday

Do not think I shall go round to Spithead in the Hotspur as she goes rather early, but shall wait for Zealous which goes round a few days later. Captain Wilson wants me to go round the coast of England in one of his brigs next month. I should no doubt pick up Channel pilotage, but still I should miss Rae, and have to give up taking lessons in French and Music.

14 June – Saturday

Last night attended a ball at Lady Plavedy’s [?] with my Father and Meta. A very pleasant dance, a great many red coats and few naval men there. Came away early at 1 o’clock.

DEPART PLYMOUTH

15 June – Sunday

Off Torquay. A most charming day, with a most lovely view to greet one’s eyes. On emerging from the den below, I’ve never seen Torquay before under such charming circumstances and consequently I don’t shrug my shoulders and say “Hang it, the same old place.”

Yesterday forenoon as we (my Father and I) were going to start in steam pinnace for the Sound, the Ballerina, Sir H Codrington’s yacht, was signalled as coming in; immediately the fever took Meta and I’ve no doubt Russie, as soon as he heard of it. I said goodbye and then my Father and I, picking up Sir Harry Keppel and Lord Charles Beresford, steamed out to the Sound, going alongside yacht on our way and greeting all of them. In doing which the two Admirals in pinnace got wet through, as a tug coming along sent her swell rushing up between yacht and pinnace, so Lord Charles and I had to swag them down. The Codringtons all looked very well, and I had but time to exchange a hasty greeting to them and off we went to Hotspur, disembarking me there, the Admirals went round to the other ironclads.

At 1.30 pm Capt. Herbert made the signal to weigh and off we started, viz. the Hotspur (Commodore’s ship), Cyclops, Prince Albert, Gorgon, Hydra, the Waterwitch and Plucky, a by no means small fleet. We soon formed column divisions line ahead – and steamed merrily along. The Cyclops class (of which there were three, the Hecate remaining behind in the Sound) dipping their forecastle under water in first class style. The two Admirals came out in a tug with us some way, when Captain Herbert hailed them and pointed out a small schooner, with both anchors down, no wind and heavy swell on shore, precious close to the rocks, off Penlee, so they went over and tugged her clear.

About 7 o’c it came on very misty and we lost sight of the Waterwitch. At 9 o’c made signal to form Col Divisions line abreast, which the ships took some time in doing, and we had to send Plucky round the fleet to instruct them. However eventually we got into the desired formation, not before the Gorgon, and Hydra had rubbed their quarters together, not doing much harm however.

At 10 o’c we opened out the red light on Mole, visible 5 miles and at 10.30 came to in 8 fms. veered to 3 shackles in very fair order.

Slept most comfortably last night, having a very nice cabin and Captain Herbert has made everything very comfortable for me. Went round the ship this morning, she is capitally ventilated below by means of fans. The 25 ton gun on fixed turret is on a turntable and worked by hand – one man being able to work the turntable.

ARRIVE PORTLAND

Sunday Evening – After morning service on board performed by Captain Herbert, we proceeded ashore, he to look at his two girls and myself to pay the Barrows a visit, finding out their whereabouts from a newspaper. I drove out to their place about a mile and a half out from the landing place and found Jim at home. Soon after the whole of the party came from church – to wit Mrs De Vere, Mrs Barrow, her three daughters and her niece Miss Giles, sister to my old shipmate John Giles.

After lunching we spent the afternoon out of doors, smoking and lying down on the grass until tea was announced. Having devoured which, we all made for St Luke’s Church, fitted up inside like a Romanist Church and full choral service, which made it very tedious. Kelly the curate with a very good delivery, delivered a powerful sermon, and to my surprise preached the real Presence in the Sacrament and also hinted and suggested that all other churches should be looked upon with favour, laying particular stress on and keeping the Romanist Church particularly in view.

After church we went and had a look at the fleet and at 9.30 pm. I went off with Capt. H. and his daughter who is going round with us.

16 June – Monday

This morning soon after the witching hour of midnight, the fleet got underway, the Plucky and Waterwitch being sent on ahead. We steamed along the coast all day picking the two aforementioned vessels up off the Isle of Wight and got through the Needles all right passing a large number of yachts. But off Cowes a couple of the Pagodas – the Gorgon and Hydra began playing pranks, actually giving a shear and turning broadside on, much to their own danger and to the horror and consternation of the many vessels about.

It was very annoying to Capt. Herbert after their coming up so well to suddenly begin playing these pranks, owing to the two screws being moved independently of each other, the helm being put down suddenly to meet her, and the links in the chains getting kinks in them and jamming. They want rods, using chains only in the bends. It became quite laughable to see one fellow suddenly shear out of the line at right angles and soon after another fellow go after her.

We came to the anchorage about 7 o’clock finding Caledonia, and Valiant there, as Russian corvette and Penelope just going up to lay off Osborne. The former ship had just received an accident, having had her funnel (forward one) knocked away by a merchantman running into her. Everyone had left Portsmouth leaving no orders. Lord Gilford, Senior officer, and not having precise orders about anything. One would think as so much trouble had been taken to collect the ships, a little more might have been taken to lay down buoys to mark the positions of them.

ARRIVE PORTSMOUTH

17 June – Tuesday

Miss Herbert left us today for Ryde. I went and gave Lily her gear and Miss Moore actually asked me to a garden party, telling me, “Its not often I ask single young men”, thereby in my eyes enhancing the invitation, but as I go up to town tomorrow and stay until Friday I shall be unable to accept. Wrote Russie a long letter. Did NOT see my old friend Guy, but very pluckily passed his shop twice.

VISIT LONDON

18 June – Wednesday

This morning left the ship early amidst a downpour of rain and left Portsmouth by the 7.30 train fetching London 11.30 and immediately went to see my grandparents, 26 St James’ Square. Found them looking much better than I expected. Of course they were different to what they were when last I saw them, my poor grandfather has got diabetes which of course is very weakening.

Found that the Bothamleys had very kindly given me bed and lodging at their house. Went there and found them all well. Fanny being away. Paid Ida and Florence Forman a visit at their school and then went to Charing Cross to see the Shah go by. Found a great crush and so went round to St James’ Park and waited there amongst the crowd for an hour and a half and, it coming on to rain very heavy, I made tracks, but could not get a cab anywhere for a long time. Ultimately after getting wet through I got into a hansom and got to the B–s in time for dinner. Went after dinner to my grandparents.

19 June – Thursday

Been very busy all day running about first to Sir John Hay who introduced me to his daughters and gave me an order for tomorrow for House of Commons. I then went down by river to Greenwich and met lots of old ship-mates at the College. It is a splendid pile of a building and we are uncommonly well off in using them. The Painted Hall is simply magnificent. From Greenwich to St James Square.

Had a yarn with my grandparents and then off to meet Sir Jno. Hay at Houses of Parliament, who took me all over the House and ultimately got me seated actually amongst the Members, for I sat on the crossbenches and heard a very animated debate about having already exempted Ragged Schools from some taxation, some members wanted to do the same for all bodies or societies with any beneficial object in view. There was a division and Govt won. I heard all the Cabinet speak that are in House of Commons.

Wrote to my Mother this evening.

20 June – Friday

Went with Henry Bothamley to his chambers in the City. Rode on the top of a bus which I recommend anyone to do that is anxious to see the busy life that is going on around one. It is something most marvellous. Start from the centre of the City and go miles away, it is pretty much the same. Paid St Paul’s Cathedral a visit. Think the authorities might as well remove an unfinished organ that is truck up there. Service was going on, but I could not hear much.

In the afternoon I tried hard at several livery stables to get an open carriage for my grandparents, but did not succeed, as they had been all ordered several days beforehand to see the Shah as he passed through the Park, which was literally jammed full of splendid carriages. I engaged a very nice cab and after lunching with my grandparents drove them out to Kilburn and paid Florence and Ida Forman a visit taking sweets etc. out to them. Dined at the Bothamleys and paid my G – a visit afterwards.

21 June – Saturday

Started into the City this morning with Henry Bothamley and having wished him goodbye. I made down New Bond Street and fetched up at the Royal Academy. I had to hurry through it very much quicker than I ought to or wished to do but my time was very limited. I had a look at the paintings done by Graves’s father – the Hon. W. Graves and liked them all very much, more There was a very good one of the Princess of Wales – the dress (white satin) and jewellery was simply perfect, and the upper part of face very like. There were several others very good, but my space is limited.

I made tracks for my grandparents and had a long chat with them before saying goodbye. My grandfather made me a parting present of a very handsome gold pencil case, which my Father had previously given him some 4 and 20 years ago. They were both much affected at my going away. I think my visit had done them both good, and I was sorry to leave them, having to go by the 1.30 train and got down to Portsmouth without adventure, barring I could not find my ticket for some five minutes and kept the train waiting and the porter eyed me very suspiciously.

At the sally-post the boatman wanted to charge me 5/– to take me off, but I blackguarded him for being so exorbitant and fortunately for my purse I spied the steam launch coming in and came off in her, together with Capt. Gerard Napier and Mr Jones of Exeter both guests of the Captain.

AT PORTSMOUTH

22 June – Sunday

Heard service read on board by Captain Herbert, and after lunch and proceeding on board the Sultan, Mr Jones and I went over to Ryde and took a walk out to Binstead Church; very pretty walk and a very pretty old church. Met Admiral Elliot there.

23 June – Monday

Broke forth in a most splendid day and fit for the Shah, or any one else to view the fleet. I went ashore and brought off some of the Captain’s friends, altogether we had a large number of ladies on board, although contrary to orders.

About 10 30 am, the fun began in right good earnest. Salutes from all the ships in harbour told us he had embarked on board the yacht and shortly afterwards we spied the Victoria and Albert coming round the Blockhouse, followed by a large number of other yachts.

As she hove in sight the fleet commenced saluting and made such a confounded row – our big gun shaking us up pretty well. Southsea Beach was crammed full of people, as thick as bees. All the saluting was over in 2 min 6 sec, the guns being fired at 6 sec. intervals. The Royal Yacht passed down through the lines followed by others, and Simoom and Tamar, House of Lords and Commons respectively, in them and of course a lot of merchant steamers tailed on the line. All the ships manned yards and cheered as she passed.

The Shah with the Princes and Princess of Wales and Cesarevna and her husband Cesarevitch visited the Agincourt and Sultan and asked for another salute from the fleet, accordingly another salute was fired – and then the Shah and Royal concourse of people passed through the line again for the harbour – another Salute being fired. I had a good look at all the mighty personages through my Dolland’s. We all had a good deal of difficulty keeping the ladies down out of sight, whilst yacht was passing. Miss Herbert being a most determined mutineer.

After lunching we proceeded to Devastation and looked over her and I fished for an invitation to go round to Devonport in Princess Alice but the fish did not bite, in this case Sir Harry Keppel being the fish. Made my bow to the Codringtons yesterday, have not had time to pay them a visit yet. Heard from my Father this day.

ARRIVE DEVONPORT

24 June – Tuesday

Went ashore to Dockyard where old Jones left us for Exeter, and then went all over the Excellent, Calcutta, and Vernon with Capt. Boys. Capt. Napier took leave of us and Capt. Herbert and I then came off beating in his gig for some of the way and taking some time over it.

Lunched at the Nut before coming off, and saw several old shipmates, and saw the owner of the yacht who was in front of one of the small gunboats when she fired her 18-ton gun, with a charge of pebble powder, and he said three ladies in his yacht were cut about a good deal by the pellets of powder striking them. It riddled his boat like a grape.

25 June – Wednesday

An ugly looking day, blowing fresh from the Westward. Remained on board all day and tried to rub up my Algebra, but could not get on at all. Spent the evening by myself Captain Herbert having gone over to the Isle of Wight and not returning until late.

The papers are full of the Russian news. I’m certain that sooner or later we shall have a row with the Northern Bear; the evil day is only uncertain. Heard from Lily who was much disappointed at not coming off the day of review.

26 June – Thursday

Intending to make up for Lily’s disappointment I made arrangements for bringing her off this afternoon, and got the life-boat cutter in to Southsea Pier, and then walked off to her school and had an interview with the gay Miss Moore and Lily. The former told me she could not let Lily go as she was unable to go herself to chaperone her. I’m afraid Lily was very disappointed, poor girl.

Met Hamilton, who told me the reason of his having left the Lord Warden. Pearson bowling him out, in not receiving him. I expect too, Hammy was slightly indisposed. What from, ask Bacchus? He got superseded on account of ill health and is going in for Greenwich now.

27 June – Friday

After luncheon today, the Captain and myself made arrangements for going over to Ryde and paying his family a visit, but had not got more than half-way, when I on looking back, saw the Blue Peter flying on board Hotspur and informed Captain Herbert so we turned back. On getting on board found that all the Turret ships (6) belonging to the Western Division had to prepare for sea, and by 6 pm we were all ready but had to wait for the Commander of Hydra, who had gone to Brighton, fortunately leaving his address, so he was telegraphed for. But he did not get back until 9.30 pm. Then we made the signal to weigh, making ourselves about 10 pm and got the fleet into two lines after passing the Nab.

DEPART PORTSMOUTH

28 June – Saturday

Had breakfast late 9.0 am in consequence of Captain Herbert not having turned in until 4.0 am. He was very disappointed at not seeing his friends and daughter yesterday, more especially as he has no home and feels it very much, his wife having died, not long after marrying.

My cruise is now drawing to a close, having been just a fortnight away. I’m glad of getting home again and home with all its comforts etc. I’ve enjoyed myself pretty well, Captain Herbert being very kind and hospitable to me. He is quick tempered, but has a fair command over it – a just man, and zealous for the Service, and more, a God-fearing and God-respecting person.

St Clair the 1st Lieut is pretty good in the service and does not lack brains. Osborne, Nav. Lieut a very noisy and quick-tempered fellow, but very good at his work. Arrived in the Sound about 7.0 pm and after dining with Captain Herbert, came ashore, found all well. Robbie well and grown a good deal since I last saw him.

ARRIVE PLYMOUTH

29 June – Sunday

Walked out to the Hospital in company with my Father, Russie and Rob. Saw Domville there, who I thought was very uncourteous. He evidently thinks that everyone is trying to impose upon his rank and not give him all the deference he should have and therefore he thinks it is the best thing to do, viz. stick his hands in his pockets and speak disrespectfully. It is a great mistake to think that it is the right thing to do for he only makes enemies and fellows say – “What a snob that fellow is.”

30 June – Monday

Paid a visit to the Racoon. Found two old ships there; the 1st Lieut Bouverie Clark and Poë another Lieut. Asked them up to lunch. Went out to Pennycomequick Cemetery with Rob and found Willie’s tomb had not been done up. In the afternoon took Meta up to Admiral Louis to a croquet party. Like most croquet parties, it was rather dull.

Spent the evening with 42nd. Edward and I had an exciting rubber at billiards. He beat me 2 out of 3.

1 July – Tuesday

Went to Rays this forenoon and in the afternoon took barge out for a sail. Paid Herbert a visit aboard the Cambridge.

2 July – Wednesday

Went down this morning with my Father to the Racoon and paid her off. She had a fine clean looking crew as I’ve ever seen. Captain Howard they say is reserved, but just and he looks it. Bade goodbye to Poë and Clark. The latter my Father recommended for promotion and I hope he will get it.

Barrosa arrived in from China and is to go round to Sheerness to pay off. Amethyst hoisted the pennant. Went over Keyham Yard with my Father and then walked to Thankes.

4 July – Friday

Proceeded to the Hobsons with mother and party to engage in a croquet party, found it very slow.

5 July – Saturday

Made Mrs Stevenson’s acquaintance. Edward’s sister. Think she is very nice and agreeable.

6 July – Sunday

The ships from the Eastward came in, four in number and anchored in the Sound. Walked into the Hospital with my Father and went over the wards.

7 July – Monday

The Ariadne came in this morning from Madeira and anchored in the Sound. Met a lot of them ashore. Had a pleasant little croquet party at the green, at the Summer House. Mrs Wilson and Miss Staveley calling and joining in. Took a Turkish Bath in company with Russ and Rob.

9 July – Wednesday

Met Willoughby this morning, who kept me from going to Rae’s and stayed to lunch with us. Ariadne ordered off to Portsmouth so Bertie and I took him off to ship and then went alongside the Fair Rosamund yacht of Delmé-Radcliffe’s and made a call. I then took Francie out to the Minter’s and we had a game of croquet. She was looking very pretty and attracted great attention from everyone in the streets. Had a most pressing letter from Guy and Eames. Wrote him an answer this morning.

10 July – Thursday

Worked at Algebra this forenoon, and in the afternoon went down with my Father to Keyham Yard, and had a look at the Amethyst. We saw a young Mid sloping round the spars lying on the side of the camber, and evidently not appreciating the close proximity of an Admiral, however, we noticed his retreat and gave chase, and called him to us. He said his name was Savory and turned out to be a Mid whose nomination Admiral Mends had given, having obtained it through my Father.

We then saw the Vanguard come in, and I went on board of her, having been introduced to the Commander (Brooks by name) and I must declare, I never saw a ship in such splendid order, not excepting my last ship, the L–W. My Father is very pleased with him and I think will take him out to N.A. and W.I. if he goes there. Brand is 1st Lieut of her, of Jamaica notoriety, and I was told that when he passed a nigger on board he shook his fist and said “By George I thought I had shot you all.”

11 July – Friday

This afternoon the London came down from Keyham, she is not getting on very quickly. She is going out to Zanzibar as a depot ship for released slaves etc.

We had the Lowe family and the Stevensons down and took them down to the Summer House and played croquet. I’ve taken a great fancy to the Stevensons. Met an old shipmate of mine – Harris, Flag-lieut to Admiral M.T. Symonds, now commander of Achilles. He is not much altered in appearance and is at present employed in revising Nares seamanship. I don’t think he will ever achieve a much greater feat!

12 July – Saturday

This morning (to my surprise and delight) Russie rushed into my room and brought an official looking letter. On opening it I found it was from Admiral Key saying seven volunteers were required to observe the Transit of Venus, December 7th, and were to go to Greenwich 21st inst. and either study at that place or the Observatory and proceed abroad May/74 counting time away from England as full time and receiving full pay. I jumped at the chance and my Father did too. I replied at once and telegraphed in my Father’s name to Admiral Key saying I should be only too happy and too desirous in becoming a candidate.

This evening I paid a visit to Harris and told him I would see if I could pick up anything for his revision of Nares seamanship.

13 July – Sunday

This evening heard an old friend and shipmate preach, Harbord who is parson of Achilles. He gave us a sermon in his usual florid and flowery style.

14 July – Monday

Farquhar came here and is staying as his ship is not commissioned yet.

15 July – Tuesday

Took Mr & Mrs Stevenson over the ropery, which was very interesting. Gained a good deal of information, – flax – Russian 3d and Italian which is the finest costs 1d a lb. It is first combed then spun into threads and then dipped into a solution of tar, and ought to be kept dipped in tar for about two years. We then proceeded down to Keyham and I took them over Vanguard, Capt. Spain doing the honours, and then all over the Hecate and showed them several other ships.

After dining with Russie, Farquhar, and Rob, went up to the Bank and stayed until 10 pm, with him while he was working.

17 July – Thursday

No news yet about whether I’m to be employed in the service of Observing Transit of Venus. In the afternoon went with the boys bathing and then down to Keyham with my Father in the old black galley under sail. She is now 18 years of age and has seen much service.

Paid a visit to my old shipmate and not old friend, – Oxley – formerly a Lieutenant when I knew him first, now a Commander, and has a beard and moustache which partly hides the ‘Demon’s’ face. I can’t say I like him. He has no principles. He is now Commander of Resistance and I wish his shipmates joy of him.

After bidding him goodbye the boys and I walked up and listened to the 42nd Band, Penlee grounds, taking tea with Miss Lowe, at Mrs Chambers. In the evening we went to the Theatre and saw Geneviève de Brabant – (the Lowes were there). The piece was very amusing and the company good. They had a lot of pretty girls on the stage.

18 July – Friday

Paid Miss Joll a visit and made her sister’s acquaintance. They told me James was coming home August next. Made calls on the Beddingfields and Stevensons and with Lady and Miss H – and then took them to tea, to Edward’s rooms, Raglan Barracks. Heard from J. and E.

19 July – Saturday

Yesterday forenoon Russell came in from the Bank and said he had to go down to Royal Clarence Victualling Yard, so Father and I took the dingy and with Russie proceeded down there under sail, Father in uniform and at the helm. After dropping Russie, we had to beat back against the first of the ebb and took 13 tacks to get round into Hamoaze. Father steered her uncommonly well and the Mateys were somewhat surprised to see the Admiral Superintendent steering a dingy under sail.

In the afternoon went and saw cricket match and won a pair of gloves from Mrs Keith Stewart – and made calls. Walked on to Hoe with Russie in the evening.

20 July – Sunday

Had our usual family gathering together – and our usual Sunday prayer. Walked into the hospital with my father and Francie – Attend Dk.Yd. Chapel in the evening.

22 July – Tuesday

In the afternoon went with Edward to the Gorgon turret vessel and with a large number of Captains etc. saw my Father’s and Mr Moor’s life boat tested; everything being very satisfactory and working extremely well. Filled her with water and put 37 men into her and she was still very buoyant and found her very hard to capsize.

Introduced to Lord Alexander Russell. Had a large dinner party in the evening, everything very good. I flatter myself there are few people who give such good parties.

23 July – Wednesday

At last I’ve received news about Greenwich. My father getting a telegram from Admiral Key saying I was selected, so I must go up tomorrow. It is very hard to leave Home and my loving home, but in this life, these trials will come. We must look onward and upward. Packed up this evening.

24 July – Thursday

Started by the 10.20 train and passed through some of the prettiest scenery I’ve ever seen. It was really most lovely. Had one of the head engineers belonging to Messrs. Napier’s firm as a companion. Got down to Greenwich at 7.30 and found I was one of the first arrivals there.

25 July – Friday

Unpacked this morning and packed up again this evening for Home. I paid Admiral Key a visit in the morning and had a long chat with him and he gave me strong hints compatible with his billet, that it made me seriously think of giving up the whole business.

Started for town in the afternoon and paid my grandparents a visit, found little difference in their state, and then met my Father at United Service Club. Had a chat with him which clinched the matter; so down I went to Greenwich and paid Admiral Key and Lady Key a visit. Told the Admiral I wished to take my departure, he told me I had done quite right, so I wrote my letter which he backed up, adding I had better be employed in the Gunnery line as I told him I wished to go in for it.

Later in the evening my Father came down and had a chat with Admiral Key – so I made arrangements for starting back next day. Packed up etc.

26 July – Saturday

Heard from Russie and rather startled all the other fellows by their seeing a cab drive up. My baggage put on top and I jump in, bidding them goodbye, and waving my hand out of the window. Thus finished my observing Transit of Venus. 48 hours away from Home and minus £5.

My Father tried hard to get me appointed to the Resistance as I wrote applying for ship to qualify for Gunnery Officer. Saw Lord Walter Kerr at the Club who had shaved and looked much cleaner. He told me he had spoken to Admiral Tarleton about me when he had come home.

We lunched with Mrs Stepney, Mrs Mackenzie being there. She has such a very prettily fitted up house in Hill street, called Hill Street House, near Rutland Gate.

We did not get home until 1.30 am the train being very late. Found my Mother up waiting with refreshments. Found Edward had been in from Dartmoor spending the evening. The 42nd marched out Thursday last, and my Father and I got up at 5.30 and proceeded to see them off. The old Colonel was evidently very pleased to see us. We gave Edward and Andy Wauchope some hard boiled eggs.

27 July – Sunday

Got my appointment to Cambridge for short course – and hope to soon get another for Resistance.

28 July – Monday

Went down to Keyham and had a look at the ship.

29 July – Tuesday

Went out into the Sound with my Father and Russie, in Achilles, learnt the marks. As it was high water, we went over the Brambles, and then got flag-staff in Victualling Yard on with left corner of main building and when we got tall chimney on with St Peter’s Church cupola tower, proceeded out round the Vanguard buoy; and got left corner and right corner of two terraces on Hoe on – the tugs slewing her round.

Saw in papers of my appointment to Resistance, of which I’m very glad.

At 11 o’c proceeded up to Mrs Stevenson’s and went out with her and a party of ladies on 42nd drag to the Camp at Dartmoor. Took an hour and a half driving out, through most beautiful scenery; the camp being in two divisions looking very picturesque, pitched on two separate hills with the village of Meavy between them in the valley.

Saw nearly all the 42nd there and lunched with Edward in a most princely style (8/– a day mess money) in left wing tent; all of us being right wing – so the left wing had insult added to injury by being asked what they meant by coming there; eventually they came in after we had finished. Went all through the Camp and saw Miss Robinson’s Temperance Tent, a fine big comfortable tent. Drive back reaching Home by 8, just too late for dinner; came in at the wine. Met Oxley, Harris (Comdr) and Waddilove, and Grabbe. Capt. with Mrs Hemsley.

Found my appointment had come.

31 July – Thursday

Joined this morning, told to commence duty Friday morning.

A telegram came down with the information that the Admiralty were coming down so, much to our disappointment, my Father had to write to Sir Massey Lopes and excuse himself dinner, when he was going to speak to Duke of Cambridge about Edward.

1 August – Friday

Breakfasted on board this hulk (Canopus) this morning and set to work – have a very jolly cabin – met my Father this afternoon. There is lots of work to be done and sometimes great trouble to get on. For instance this afternoon we have some 2 – 3000 shot to get and the A.T. Corps sent a cart and pair of horses – driver with shako and bright steel scabbard and only brought 20 shot each trip – just a tow.

2 August – Saturday

Got leave until Monday morning. On returning home I found Julia Bothamley had come down to stay with us some time. Edward came in from the camp and left about 11 pm. to drive out. My Father went out to Sir Massey Lopes and dined this evening meeting Dukes of Cambridge and Bedford etc.

5 August – Tuesday

Admiral Stewart came down last night and I applied for leave, whilst the Admiralty are down here to attend on my Father.

6 August – Wednesday

The Vigilant with My Lords on board came alongside the jetty this morning and at 9.30 a large staff of naval men received them on landing. The forenoon was employed going over papers and the store houses and ships at lower yard. At 2 pm they all came to lunch at our place, 26, no small number.

Introduced to Mr Goschen, Lord Camperdown, and the remainder of the Admiralty. After lunch went down to Keyham and visited the ships and factory shops. Had a yarn with Lord Camperdown about the retirement scheme and the accident at Spithead to the yacht.

7 August – Thursday

My Lords inspected some 2,000 boys this morning, who marched past in front of our house with their bands playing. It was a very pretty sight. Yesterday afternoon they all went out and saw the 5 brigs get under way, which they did very well indeed and it looked exceedingly pretty. The Hoe looked very well, it happened to be crowded at the time, as some swimming matches were going on.

Dined this evening with Sir Harry Keppel, who asked me if I should like to go round to Holyhead in Vivid with him. I of course jumped at the offer.

Took a girl down to dinner, daughter of a millionaire and worth £40,000 down; unfortunately she was not pretty, in fact she was plain.

8 August – Friday

My Lords are still here and do not intend leaving until tomorrow morning. Had a yarn with Admiral Stewart, who lunched with us, as did Mr Barnes.

9 August – Saturday

The Admiralty held a meeting for about two hours in the Board Room, during which time I danced attendance on them and sent away telegrams etc. They left at 2 pm for Pembroke. All my people drove out to the camp.

10 August – Sunday

Managed to get ashore and spend the day.

12 August – Tuesday

This morning early, the ship was brought off alongside the hulk and about 11 am we began to hoist our boats in for the first time, hoisting the launch with all her weights in, except the engines. No light weight – as it was, just as she got over her crutches the fore stay slipped through the man’s hand attending it and the boat came down a tremendous cropper bending the crutch. I thought at the time it was unnecessarily straining the yards and ropes.

13 August – Wednesday

Having received an order to be lent to Vivid, I struck work and went ashore and packed up. Paid a visit to the Lowes and Bacons. My people dining out. Heard from James, Lily, McAlpine and Shaw.

14 August – Thursday

23 years of age today. Overpowered with presents, which I’ve not received exactly on the day, but for the last two weeks. I’ve had any amount from my parents etc. so refused to take one today, as I consider I’ve received quite enough. Went with my Father to attend a preliminary meeting to protest against the Confessional address by 483 English clergymen. Proceedings strictly private and meeting well attended, all having been asked by invitation.

At 3 pm we got underway in the Vivid with Sir Harry Keppel, his son and Flag Lieut and myself. I being attached pro tem to his staff. Anchored in Falmouth Harbour for the night.

15 August – Friday

All yesterday I felt anything but lively, the little vessel knocking about tremendously. Off Land’s End – anchored for the night at Milford and got under way early this morning.

ARRIVE HOLYHEAD

17 August – Sunday

Anchored inside the breakwater off Holyhead yesterday afternoon, and found Admiral Hornby with his squadron of five ships – Agincourt, Northumberland, Sultan, Hercules and Devastation, together with five brigs under Captain Wilson and a number of Trinity yachts under Sir Frederick Arrow. The Agincourt saluted us and we signalled Northumberland to return it, not discovering until afterwards that the Hercules should have done so. We all dined on board the Agincourt.

This morning Admiral Hornby called on us and took us on to Church, Dean Stanley of Westminster preaching. He has a splendid delivery.

We had a great joke this morning, the Admiral, thinking Lord Charles had gone to the breakwater to take his training, (rigged in his tail coat and best cap) and was anxiously looking out for him. The Admiral ran down below and asked me if I had seen Beresford. I told him I had seen him with the Admiral’s coat and cap on. The Admiral threatened to throw Beresford’s cap overboard if he could find it, but he did not succeed. Old Thompson said to the Admiral “That boy will be getting you into trouble some day.” So it was great fun when Beresford came off and had the laugh at them.

Lunched at the Hon. Mr Stanley’s – meeting the Miss Coles, Capt. Adeane and his sister and Dean Stanley and Lady Augusta there. Had tea with Admiral Hornby and made the acquaintance of the Schombergs – Mrs S – saying she was a cousin of my Mother’s. Dine tomorrow with Capt. Alexander and lunch at the Stanleys on Tuesday, meeting HRH there.

19 August – Tuesday

Yesterday I was dancing attendance most of the day on Sir Harry Keppel at Mr Stanley’s house. Dined with Captain Alexander.

After dinner had an argument with Captain Fitz Roy about the lifeboats. He says that he would not have any lifeboats in his ship if he could help it, saying men lost their confidence and trusted entirely to the boat and not to their own exertions. Why I said, which would I have more confidence in myself, if I went away in a gale of wind in a sinkable or an unsinkable lifeboat – of course in the latter.

Last night the Victoria and Albert came in, and this morning we saluted the Prince. Sir Harry was very put out by Hornby not manning yards and sent for him and spoke [un]kindly to him. We dressed with mast head flags at 9 am. We should have done it at 8 am. Sir Harry, Lord Charles and myself then went on board the Royal Yacht and I was presented and shook hands with the Prince of Wales. I saw Prothero and had a chat with him – he had only just joined. We then all proceeded to the end of the breakwater and the Prince opened it.

After the performance of the breakwater was over, we all went to Penrhos the seat of Mr Stanley and had a lunch and garden party. The Prince lunching with a select party of 21. The remainder of us scrambling for grub in another room. Then the luncheon being over we had a garden party which means everyone standing about staring at the Prince and at each other. I made the tour of the grounds with Miss Schomberg and then with some other Miss –.

The Prince and Duke, Beresford and Yorke, had a long game at German skittles, the Caernarvon volunteer band and Welsh harper – who played before the Queen – enlivening us with music. The Lords Suffield and Beresford gave us some fun in a flat race. B. running in full fig, and gradually edging Lord S. over to the left, and on arriving opposite a large thick bush of grass, giving him a tremendous shove and sending Lord Suffield flying into it, head over heels.

Came off to Hercules with Harry Rawson and had tea with him and then to Devastation and dined here. Captain Howell having asked me to go round with him – the Admiral going in Royal Yacht and Vivid going on today.

DEPART HOLYHEAD

21 August – Thursday

At sea in HMS Devastation nearing the Land’s End, little wind and sea – ship lively, beyond what one would expect.

It is Russell’s birthday, 19 years of age, he is now quite out of his boyhood and must look forward to life in its real aspect and prepare for ‘opening the oyster’. I wish him Many Happy Returns of the day and may he always see them in good health.

We left Holyhead 12 o’c Wednesday and shall probably be in at Plymouth tomorrow afternoon.

ARRIVE PLYMOUTH

22 August – Friday

I joined my ship this morning and found they were going out into the Sound on Monday next, so not being wanted I got leave to go ashore until Sunday night.

24 August – Sunday

Met the Codringtons yesterday. They have come here for a few days and they are looking very much better than when I saw them last.

25 August – Monday evening

Francie’s birthday this day – 13 years of age. We embarked ship this morning at 7 am and proceeded out of harbour at once, to go through our steam trials. We made the six runs and made an average of 11.4 knots full speed.

After we had anchored at 2 pm I proceeded ashore in steam launch, and arriving home found Annie and Nellie C. there, the former singing – and there we all sat for several hours, she singing and between whiles, Russie and I dancing with the girls. It was great fun altogether and the C-s are very jolly girls. Annie has a very powerful command over her voice and a good strong one too. Nellie also sang very prettily – she is very amusing with her perky manner. I’m sorry to say they sail tomorrow. Mr Wilson spent the evening with us.

Was very sorry to hear of the loss of one of our men by drowning – punt being towed alongside got swamped.

26 August – Tuesday

Blowing very fresh. Tried to get out to the ship in our steam pinnace. Looked at the Devil’s Bridge, but not liking the look of it turned back, very fortunately, and tried round Drake’s Island, and put her at it very slowly indeed. She dipped into the sea and the whole of the glass forward gave way. I sang out “Helm hard down”, but before she went off, another sea partially entered and half put the fires out. Fortunately she had enough steam left to keep her going before the sea and we ran to the leeward of Drake’s Island and I hopped into the dock launch and got on board. A nasty disagreeable day and raining, so I don’t suppose the Codringtons will come off today to visit the ship.

30 August – Saturday

Yesterday and the day before I spent at home, being my days off. Took Farquhar with me yesterday and we had dancing lessons – Meta instructing us.

Thursday night we had a large dinner, Admiral Hornby and Captains of the Channel Fleet – sent them off in a tug after dinner.

31 August – Sunday

Being officer of the Guard for yesterday I went in the morning with my guard report, boarding a yacht on the way viz. the Ariadne belonging to Mr Luxmoore. The crew were on deck at the time getting the cable shortened in and were very far from civil, so I pitched into them and told them that they had better have more respect for one of Her Majesty’s officers in the future and threatened to inform the owner, on which they became very mild.

Went next on board the Himalaya just come in and on to the Admiral’s office and saw Sir Harry Keppel and having to wait some little time I trotted home and found them all at breakfast and joined them in drinking some coffee and eating some green figs, uncommonly good (from our garden) and then came on board again.

The Channel fleet sailed yesterday, Agincourt, Sultan, and Devastation for Bantry Bay, Northumberland and Hercules for Portland, where I suppose we shall soon go to also.

Heard from my friend Mr R – at Malta, and consider his letter uncommonly cool; also from Henry.

Being my day on, I’ve been on board all day.

1 September – Monday

Steam launch came off for me at one o’clock and Russie and I went for a sail in the barge, going outside the breakwater and then alongside the ship and in the harbour to our buoy.

Paid Miss Joll a visit, who told me James was coming home and had telegraphed from Alexandria. He evidently means business and wants to get married at once, but the fair damsel says no; he must wait for a few weeks.

We are all very big on board the ship about a dance we propose giving, originally meant to ask friends off to 5 o’clock tea, it has swollen to a small dance. We propose giving it on Wednesday next. I got a tug from my Father and a band from Captain Wilson.

2 September – Tuesday

Alas! all our little projects dashed to the ground. Orders have come down for us to proceed to Lisbon. I went ashore and joined all my people on board the Scotia and we went out and viewed the regatta. The Trawlers looked very pretty coming in and sailed very well. I never saw any vessels shoot like they did, when going round.

We steamed round my ship and my Father hailed and got leave for Farquhar to stay the night. We passed the Codrington’s yacht and Meta, Russ and I went alongside in steam pinnace and asked the girls to come and spend the evening with us. So they came and had high tea and afterwards we had such fun, what with dancing, singing etc. Nellie being a tremendous romp, it was at times like Bedlam let loose. Annie not being very strong played most of the time for us. Waltzing, galloping, and even set of lancers and then all other sorts of steps. Meta, I nearly took every atom of breath out of, polking with. Waltzed with Mother and at 10.15 we took them on board again – in steam pinnace.

On returning I had a chat with my beloved parents, from whom I must part so soon and at 12 o’c we all turned in.

DEPART PLYMOUTH

3 September – Wednesday

Steaming down for Lisbon this afternoon at 3 pm. Father, Russie, Farquhar, and I got up at 5.15 and came off to the ship in a tug and were off by 6 am. I gave them all a cup of very good cocoa and took leave of them, as I did of my darling Mother and family this morning. It was very trying and I must confess it is hard to have comfortable kind and loving Home, be the man who he may.

My dear Father came off again in steam pinnace bringing Captain Graham with him. I owe everything to him – why every Captain here almost, have offered to push me on – Captains Heneage, Herbert and others.

4 September – Thursday

This morning crossing royal yards, a smart young fellow, Haydon by name, fell down from the royal mast head abaft all, striking the gaff in falling, he struck the corner of a booby hatch and was killed on the spot, breaking both legs and smashing his face in, in a most shocking manner. We buried him this afternoon, and it was most impressive.

7 September – Sunday

Last night (three years ago) the unfortunate Captain went down, not more than a hundred miles from where we are.

Nothing of interest has occurred. We are enjoying delightful weather.

9 September –Tuesday

Had to get up steam this morning as the wind utterly failed us during the night. Last night I was dreadfully taken in by Jupiter rising very low down to the horizon and looking like a steamers light – very close to.

Fired away this forenoon and sold the dead man’s effects, the gear fetching about double their price all round.

ARRIVE LISBON

11 September – Thursday

After laying outside Lisbon all last night and this forenoon in a thick fog, we determined to steam in for Cascais Bay and anchor for the night, but on getting in close to the shore, we found ourselves suddenly out of the fog and ourselves close to the bar, so we steamed in and moored between Packet Stairs and Caes do Dria, open hawse to the Southward and 6 and 7 shackles on each cable.

14 September – Sunday

Yesterday and today being my two days off I spent ashore – going ashore yesterday early and remaining ashore for the whole day, lunching off thick chocolate and toast at the Cafe Neve.

This forenoon, after morning service, at which we tried singing for the first time (and it went off very well) the Parson Donald and I went ashore and made tracks for the church of San Roque, inside of which is the Chapel of St John. We got up there about 12 o’c and had to wait until morning service was over after which we were shown into the Chapel, the church containing eight, four a side; this one being the furthest up on the left hand side, and having a curtain in front of it.

Well as to description I cannot do it justice. Its eight marble columns of lapis-lazuli and columns of amethyst, Egyptian alabaster, granite, verde antique, Roman marble, Porphyry and ancient Jaul, its altar of the same marble and also the panellings; but above all its most exquisitely beautiful Mosaics, three in number, pass beyond description.

One must see this gem of a chapel, it is really worth coming to Lisbon on purpose to see it. The mosaics are so finely done that they appear close to like beautiful oil painting. They are imitations in mosaic of the painting of eminent artists. The Baptism of Christ from Michael +Angelo is superb – Our Saviour standing in a running brook, his feet are seen through the water and the water frothing against Him and against the sides of the brook, but I could dilate until I wanted words to praise it.

The next, The Annunciation from Guido, is also beautifully done, The Angel Gabriel is lovely with its light and shade and the last, The Descent of the Holy Ghost from Raphael of Urbino. Fifteen years were spent executing these Mosaics. The floor is also Mosaic.

In 1744 the Chapel was temporarily set up in St Peter’s at Rome and consecrated by Benedict XIV, it was then brought down and set up in San Roque in 1746. It is said to have cost 14,000,000 crusados, equal in our money to about a million and a half. It was only saved from the French by their intending to take the whole affair to France and their being driven out before they could accomplish their object.

To finish up I can only say that if anyone leaves Portugal without seeing it – why did they come to the country?

Had the great pleasure of hearing from Russie, who tells me Annie C – is far from well.

Dined last night with Captain Graham who made me carve – six of us. After dinner we smoked and played whist. Captain G. and I winning 2 points.

16 September – Tuesday

Heard from both my Mother and Russie who tell me of James’s arrival in England, so I suppose he will be soon thinking of marrying, if everything goes square. Have written letters to my Mother, Grandmother, Russie, James, Henry and Annie.

19 September – Friday

Yesterday afternoon fourteen of us went ashore for a paper-chase on horseback, starting at 1 o’clock, the Commander and myself being hares. They gave us a ¼ of an hour’s start, which was rather too much. The Commander knew the country very well and led them a good chase, we laid several false trails and after running a couple of hours, we hove to at a small house and our bags being nearly exhausted we stopped and filled them full of grapes, giving the man a dump [?] for doing so.

We were quietly eating away when I spied one of the fellows coming along not more than 300 yards off – so we hopped on our horses and struck down a deep ravine towards some very deep sands, not a minute too soon for Farquhar saw us, came pelting after us and we had an exciting chase for about a couple of miles, Farquhar not 100 yards astern of us. We then struck into a deep recess on our left, and found ourselves at a non-plus for a few moments, Farquhar being at the entrance.

We both searched for a way up and the Comdr found one and galloped up it. I tried also but my horse refused and I had to gallop up the ravine, Farquhar after me. I turned round and dodged past him very well and tried again for this place, but this time he made a try and went over on his side throwing me off too, so Farquhar jumped off and touched me and went after the Commander, who led him for another three miles and then having dropped a ring, he also stopped and was caught. It was great fun altogether. The mokes for which we gave only two crusados carrying us very well.

This forenoon employed in preparing for action, sending Topsail yard down and jib boom in.

21 September – Sunday

Went ashore this afternoon and went over the picture gallery at the Ajuda Palace and only saw three good paintings – one An episode of the French Revolution, the Execution of the Princess Lamballe –a nude – and a fight between an English Cutter and a French Lugger.

Afterwards I went to the gardens and on to the English Church in the English Cemetery – a large barn-like building – and heard a tremendous long sermon. Came on board with Captain Graham and had tea with him.

26 September – Friday

My dear Mother’s birthday. During the last week we have had the usual drills preparing for action etc. Heard the disaster over on the Cape Coast Castle [Ashantee] country and I only hope we shall teach the niggers a good lesson, and do it so well that it will not be necessary to teach them another lesson for years and years.

The night before last all the boats of the ships went away pulling and I went in the 1st gig, to steer her. The double banked launches were first – and we came in a dead heat with the pinnace. I had to relieve one of the boys, when halfway as he was regularly done. Yesterday we had great fun – 14 officers and 14 men going out in two buses to the cricket field. I went as Conductor both ways and not a little astonished the good people of Lisbon by my horn (fog-horn). They evidently thought us all mad. The officers beat the men by 40 odd runs – 150 to 101 etc. Had Farquhar in to dinner.

The last week has been very prolific of letters to me. Captain Brandreth writing me an account of the affair at Cartagena, and telling me that the bow-gun was the only one that would bear on the fort (850 feet high) in the fleet.

Had several letters from Home. James to be married on the 1st proximo.

We are going out probably on Monday for three or four days, anchoring at the mouth of the river; for the Admiralty won’t answer the Captain’s letter applying for leave to go out on a short cruise.

I’m afraid the donkey races I got up must be put off, for they were to come off on Tuesday next.

30 September – Tuesday

Yesterday morning after getting up steam and unmooring, to proceed down to the mouth of the river and fire away our ammunition, we saw a man of war coming in and soon made her out to be the Encounter, Capt. Bradshaw, on her way out to the West Coast. She did not bring our bandsmen out, which disappointed us much, and brought no letters. She is an ugly looking craft, small spars, but steams very well, going 27 days at 7 knots an hour; burning 9 tons a day.

Went ashore in the afternoon.

3 October – Friday

Despatched the Encounter away on Wednesday and yesterday morning early ourselves, for under way, and proceeded outside for the competitive prize firing. Found a good swell outside and we were rolling 10 to 15; so the shooting was very wild. I went up into the maintop to judge the distances that the shots fell from the target; Capt. Graham telling me to go up. I remained up all the forenoon and afternoon, and found it slow work, the monotony being relieved by Hulbert at the mast-head ‘shooting the cat’ down into the top. Farquhar and I struggling to squeeze ourselves in a corner of the top to keep clear.

We anchored last night in Cascaes Bay, and fired away the remainder of our shots this afternoon.

It was a source of great amusement last night at dinner – Warleigh, the Chaplain, and Denny the Marine Officer chaffing each other about being sick and each of them several times making exits; taking in turn.

Had an amusing letter from old Russ, who told me that he was going into Oriental Bank the end of this year and of a certain charming damsel having dreamt of me. “Say that she grown; I’ll say she looks as clear – As morning roses newly washed with dew.”

4 October – Saturday

Paid mess bills this morning and found my balance by no means so large as I should wish. We came in and moored last night and I went ashore for a stroll this afternoon. Despatched a large budget away by Gray, who went to England. Callwell heard of his promotion last night – four years and a half in seniority.

Went ashore this afternoon with Lowe. On passing the Chiado I saw a cart with donkey going by, filled with basket ware etc., so I hailed him and made him heave to and get a chair down and tried it in every way, much to the amusement of the Lisbonese (for I had to do it in the middle of the fashionable street). And then having purchased it, I had to carry it to a shop some little way down, to their still further amusement. I gave 4/– for it; 1/– too much.

5 October – Sunday

Spent my Sunday on board, being my day on. A most lovely night, I’ve never seen Lisbon look so well as it does now, with a lovely blue sky and full moon as clear as a bell. The City looks its best. Had a very sharp shower and squall this afternoon.

7 October – Tuesday

Had a pretty little row with Cdr O. who lost his temper and behaved in an ungentlemanly manner; however, he afterwards sent for me and apologised to me for it.

11 October – Saturday

Nothing of interest has occurred on board during the last week; as we have been painting ship and refitting. The Dolphin, a North German gunboat, has put in on her way to Kiel, to pay off. News has come out of 40 Subs being promoted and that 130 Lieuts. have applied to go, but not enough Captains. The Channel Fleet we hear is to leave on the 15th inst. and come out to this place.

This afternoon our cricket eleven started out in a bus to the cricket field, to continue the Match against the Lisbon eleven –which we did, getting a most tremendous hammering, which we fully expected beforehand. I managed to make one run and then got bowled.

Invested in four of the Lisbonese figures to send home, they cost 5200 reis equivalent to about £1.4.

13 October – Monday

Yesterday Lowe, Blunn and I went ashore and attended evening service at St George’s Chapel – Mr Pope preaching and our parson reading the prayers – rather a scanty congregation, not more than 30 or so; but they say that is accounted for by the English people being mostly out of town.

The English mail steamer Douro came in this morning and brought us papers and letters of the 8th. I received one from my Father and from its tone I’m afraid that those beggars at the Admiralty have been worrying him; they are a frightful crowd there, bothering zealous persons in the execution of their duty.

Capt. Fairfax succeeds Tryon and the work on Defence, Warrior has been knocked off, on account of this Ashantee War.

14 October – Tuesday

Heard from my Father today who seems to be bothered a good deal by the Admiralty, hampering him in every way.

15 October – Wednesday

Had a big budget from Home with accounts of James’ marriage and they seem well suited to each other and I hope they may live as long and happily as my dear Parents have. Also heard of the bright prospect in view of Russie’s prospects in Oriental Bank.

16 October – Thursday

Sent my Premium on Life Insurance home by Liverpool packet. Found the mail had missed the steamer, so I shall only just save my bacon, for if it does not get home before end of month, I shall forfeit everything. Sent 11 letters and box of figures home by Callwell, who sails tomorrow.

Been playing at cricket this afternoon, and find I indeed require very much practising before I shall make a decent figure at it. This morning we bent sails. I think there is no love lost between Captain and Commander and I should not be surprised at latter leaving before ship was paid off, but that is only my private opinion, the former has principles. In the forenoon Denny, Usborne, McClean and I paid a visit to the yankee Corvette Wachusett, an old stationer of mine, and the Spanish frigate Zaragosa which came in Sunday last from Cuba.

Had a long yarn with Captain who said she rolled so badly coming across the Atlantic that pipes etc. were all out of joint. He seems a very nice man, and a Royalist and said very truly that it is only some 5000 men in Spain that create all these revolutions and disturbances. He sailed this evening for Cartagena to join Admiral Lobe’s Squadron and seemed very anxious to have a slap in at the Insurgents. Her guns are smooth bores and vary from 80P to 180P. Dined with the Captain and met Capt. Robinson, Queen’s messenger.

18 October – Saturday

Yesterday prepared for action, and today we regularly had a field day in the way of holy-stoning.

This afternoon, Sir Charles and Lady Murray coming out of quarantine, I was sent down in a launch to bring them across but found that they had just got into their own boat, so I gave them the usual polite messages etc. Sir Charles is rather a spare man whilst his wife is inclined to embonpoint.

Callwell sailed this afternoon.

19 October – Sunday

After the usual morning service, I went ashore and walked out to the Campo Grande and back, by myself. It is about a mile past the cricket–ground.

Campo Pequeno – there was a fair there and the place was very full of people indeed. Attended evening service at St George’s Chapel and then afterwards proceeded into Mr Pope’s house and had tea.

20 October – Monday

Went ashore this afternoon after sail drill and made calls on the Minister, Consul, Admiral Sartorius and other people and did some shopping. Heard from Annie of the birth of her first child (a boy) she writes evidently in great pride. Captain dined in W.R. this evening (a very long heavy dinner) after which I won 23 points at whist.

21 October – Tuesday

Had more drill this morning before breakfast. The Pacific mail came in and brought me two letters, one from my Mother with a few lines from my Father (very characteristic of him) and a letter from Russie – also news of my gun coming out in Northumberland, it is very kind of Jim giving me one.

The ‘Demon’ sadly lost his temper this evening with one of the Subs, but he is always sorry for it afterwards but still I don’t trust him, for he is a man that will suck you dry and if necessary chuck you away if no further use.

25 October – Saturday

Thursday last went out to cricket and had practice. Coming back some of our fellows had a narrow shave of getting their heads cracked, for the wheel of the bus came off and she heeled over a good deal.

Yesterday afternoon (Friday) I took the boom boats away sailing and put them through different evolutions. Last night as the Prussian Gunboat had not sailed, I went on board and saw the Commander of her and asked him when he sailed. He said 7.00 Saturday morning. So as he is going to Plymouth I asked him to take some grapes home for me and a letter of introduction for himself to my Father.

So this morning I got rather anxious as the market boat did not come off until 7.00 and he had shortened in and was evidently only waiting for my grapes, which did not keep him five minutes. However it was very civil his waiting. Wrote a few lines by Pacific mail which sailed this afternoon.

26 October – Sunday

Stayed on board all day. Attended afternoon service in Torpedo Room Flat, much disturbed by men coming down ladder with their bags and stokers laying fires. Preparing for sea tomorrow – Captain returned Yankee’s visit. She is 330 feet long 1000 HP and carries 350 men – not many considering her spars.

27 October – Monday

Anchored off Jacob’s Ladder, Bugio side. Hands turned up at 4 am to unmoor ship. Ship did not begin to swing until 6 am and eventually we did not begin to unmoor until 7.30 and did not get away until 11 o’clock making a great mess of it. We made sail and sailed down the river. Had a slight tiff with the Commander, who has a most disagreeable way of doubting one’s word and letting you know it, so any fellow that has any temper (as I know I have) is apt to resent the imputation.

Fired a Torpedo off at 10 o’clock this evening. American spar decked corvette Congress (Capt. Rhind) sailed.

28 October – Tuesday

Been at anchor all this day off Bugio. In the afternoon I took all the boats away on the sands for a good clean out, it being my all day off and having volunteered to do so.

29 October – Wednesday

This morning at 6.30 was told that the officers would be required at 6.55, so I had not much time to wash and tub. We weighed anchor and proceeded out of the river, and had not the least idea as to where we were off to, for the Captain had not informed anyone. However we did not go out far, and only went out to experimentalize with Harvey’s torpedo, going at 4–5 knots it towed out about 3 points on Port Quarter, and we hit a cask with it the first time; but the second time failed. I don’t think they will ever be used by ships at sea, one against the other for many reasons.

31 October – Friday

Yesterday evening heard from my Mother, who tells me Russie goes up to pass for Oriental Bank 5th prox. (same day as French Monarchy is settled). I do hope and trust he may be most successful – and will, when out in India, not forget the Author of all his success.

This forenoon at 12 o’c a large ironclad was seen off the mouth of the river, which we made out to be Hercules who asked us if we had seen the Channel Fleet – she then stood off – to the Northward.

My mother tells me Captain Hewett will, if I like, apply for me to go to Active as two of his lieutenants he knows are going to invalid – but I’m sure I had better remain where I am. The Captain told me this afternoon that I’d be wanted to serve as 2nd (bass) on a Naval Court Monday next. I feel rather flattered at being chosen, being junior lieutenant and I pray God I may serve out justice tempered with mercy.

1 November – Saturday

This is my Fourth Journal, having finished and buried my last yesterday. Well, here we are in HMS Resistance anxiously expecting the Channel Fleet in, for the Hercules came in this afternoon, having left them outside. We had a cricket match on with the Lisbon club, to which I purposed walking out to see, but a sudden down-pour made me take refuge in the Peninsular Cafe, in which I was kept prisoner the space of an hour, or so. It holding up eventually, I took a walk out to the walls and cruising outside them some way, came back again. I was surprised to find how rich the soil was and what a large amount of ground there was inside the walls.

Coming on board, found a letter from Russie written in a very joyous strain, telling me of his going to town on the 5th to join the Oriental Bank, and a most poetical account of his correspondence with the C.S.D. of the gaol [?]. Advice the girls gave him.

2 November – Sunday

It seems as if the beginning of the wet season was setting in, for again today, we have had very heavy wind and rain squalls, one very heavy indeed, which would have taken our sails out of us, if at sea and no precautions taken.

At 12.30 the Channel Fleet hove in sight coming into the river, they made sail at 1.30 and furled at 2.30, why, I don’t know except that I hear Admiral Hornby is fond of working on a Sunday, which to my mind is not right. They say that he never comes into a place excepting on Sunday. I don’t care for him much, as a service man, he has no regard for any one, as far as I can see. The Hercules W.R.O, very kindly sent us an English sheep. We have been ordered to join the Channel Fleet, so, now our agonies commence.

3 November – Monday

This morning whilst dressing I was informed Admiral Hancock had asked the Commander permission for me to go and breakfast, so, off I trotted and cooled my heels for ½ an hour aboard Agincourt, the signalman making a gross mistake in asking me ½ an hour too soon.

Both the Admiral and Capt. Lethbridge were surprised to see a full blown Lieut come on board, expecting to see only a Mid. I should think old Hancock was a jolly old buffer. We had sail drill during the forenoon, and did not do badly in the way of quickness but, the noise and confusion, together, with a most excitable Comdr. was terrific and I’m certain if, we always go on in the same style, we shall have accidents soon.

After the drill, I went ashore and tried 2 AB’s for refusing to work. They owned to it and still refused with no defence to make, so gave them 8 weeks. I had to stick out strongly against a heavier punishment.

Received my gun to-day, a pin-fire.

5 November – Wednesday

Guy Fawkes day and anniversary of the Battle of Inkerman. Last night, a whole crowd of us went to the Opera. Smith and I going in uniform. We had great difficulty in landing as it was very low tide and we could not get into any of the slips and had to pass across from one boat to another, as best might.

The Opera was Faust and with the exception of the tenor, the rest of the company were poor. The baritone being fair, perhaps. I was rather disappointed altogether and uncommonly tired, the House is miserably ventilated and the auditorium was full of smoke coming in from the lobbies &c. Got off at 1 am and found a budget of letters awaiting me from my Father, Meta and Edward.

Went ashore with Lowe this afternoon and walked outside the walls, meeting Capt. Dowell there, who said he had simply got there to justify his wearing plain clothes. It is a most ridiculous order of Admiral Hornby’s and as soon as it is withdrawn the better.

Had two Courts-Martial on board this afternoon. Programme is settled so far, that leaving here the 14th and 15th inst. for Madeira, leaving the latter place December 1st and coming back here and then up to Vigo to spend our Xmas there probably. Wrote this evening, many letters.

6 November – Thursday

Been our guard this day and I’ve been Officer of the Guard and have had a rather nasty tiff with Comdr. Oxley, who being annoyed with something, thought of punishing me by making me do a lot of ship work when away boarding. So as I did not intend doing it as a punishment, although willing enough to do it otherwise, I had to inform him that I was Officer of the Guard and it was not my duty to do otherwise. He got into his usual bad temper and is inclined to be very nasty about it.

8 November – Saturday

This morning at nine o’clock Smith and I started in a shore boat for Alcochete, taking two youngsters with us. But starting at nine o’clock, we did not reach Alcochete until one o’clock (it is some nine miles from Lisbon Western end).

We all had guns and landing at the pier, which can always be done except at very low water, we started for the salt pans, reaching them about 1.30, and stayed there until dark, not seeing much in the way of snipe; which considering some Portuguese had been shooting all over the ground before us, we could hardly expect to see.

Shot some widgeon, a bird very like the snipe, but grey in colour and red legs. Saw any amount of duck on the way up in the boat, but they were very wild. We got back to the ship at eight o’clock and had a rattling good supper. Found my gun is uncommonly light and shoots well.

9 November – Sunday

Stayed on board all this afternoon and having given the two youngsters that went out shooting my cabin to sleep in, I went into Usborne’s and laid me down for a caulk.

Was awoke at 6 bells by hearing much talking outside and to my horror Smith showed a lady and gentleman into my cabin. Usborne having carefully avoided doing so. I jumped up in rather a dishabille state and was introduced to the Count and Countess Lancastre, the latter bearing the noted name, until very lately, of Lady Cardigan, who used to go about in her yacht with Beauchamp Seymour and a few others. She was very painted and had great plats of flaxen hair on, and was most thoroughly done up.

Attended evening service at St George’s Chapel and afterwards went with Warleigh into Pope’s to supper. Came off early.

10 November – Monday

Been on watch from 8.30 am until 6 pm through our having the Guard.

11 November – Tuesday

Officer of the Court all this forenoon and part of the afternoon at four Courts Martial, and then I had to keep the afternoon watch, so I’ve not done badly yesterday and today. Gunn went yesterday and Parsons got his papers today, so he will be off very shortly, and we shall have then few subs.

Sent home letters to Russ, Rob, Father and Edward by Gunn, and wrote to my Uncle at Gib. Had young Charrington in to dinner. The poor boy got quite seedy afterwards, so I made him sit in my cabin a bit. Heard from my Father and Meta.

12 November – Wednesday

Employed writing letters home all the forenoon, which I must trust to Parsons to take home for me, who seems in rather a difficulty, not being able to raise the wind to home by. In the afternoon walked with McDermott to the last end of the city and then skirted round outside the walls to the tramway station. There seemed a great number of gates, which is necessary for I believe everything is taxed.

Heard from my Father and Meta.

13 November – Thursday

Court Martial again today and I did Officer of the Court. Captain Hoskins gave me a hint or two as what to do &c. Just as I was on the point of going ashore, I heard the mail steamer was coming in, so I donned my uniform and scuttled away for her to go and meet Mrs Graham, but I was a long while before the Captain, and so waited for him (for I thought he would like to give the first welcome to his wife).

I followed him and shook hands with Mrs G, she was looking well and pretty and was suffering some inconvenience from all her luggage with the exception of two small boxes, having been left behind, through the fault of the Captain of Steamers having told her it was on board, when it was not. I took her maid (rather a pretty one) and what gear there was ashore to the Custom House and passed it all through and bundled gear and maid off to Capt. G house. I then walked out to the cricket field and found that we had got a tremendous thrashing, from the Hercules fellows.

The Comdr. in one of his vile humours this morning.

14 November – Friday

Prepared for action, then went to general Qtrs. Manned and armed boats and loosed sails again, replacing gear this forenoon. Usborne got into hot water for running into Sultan’s boat, in his steam launch. Adm. Hornby sending for him and blackguarding him. In the afternoon, boats went away exercising and we got in boats &c. Kept first watch.

DEPART LISBON

15 November – Saturday

Wrote to my Father, before we left, beginning to unmoor at 6 am and got away at 11 am and are now steaming down for Madeira, expecting to pick up the Triumph off C. St Vincent tomorrow.

Have got the middle watch so shall turn in early.

16 November – Sunday

At 4 o’c this morning, on Smith’s having received all the orders, he told me he felt unwell and so I had to send down for some one else to relieve me. It is a great nuisance his going into the list.

This afternoon numerous signals were made to the Officer of the Watch to observe his FT Glt Sail which both the Captain and I did, not observing anything wrong, the sheets being 4 feet off but, square, topsails having one reef. They then made a signal, sheet home F.T. Glt sheets and note Officer of Watch; which Farquhar most stupidly read wrong and flew my name at the mast head. They made back there was a mistake, but the evil was done. I should not have minded the noting, for the Captain was with me all the time. He said he would explain when we got in, but those sort of promises are not to be trusted.

19 November – Wednesday

Smith still in the list, but I hope he may soon be out. We have had fine weather during the passage, wind aft all the way; usual drills &c. We were 90 miles off Madeira at noon today, so ought to be in tomorrow forenoon easily. Had watch stations this afternoon.

ARRIVE MADEIRA

20 November – Thursday

Arrived off Funchal this forenoon, with the Fleet, and had to pick our anchor up again after letting it go on account of its being let go in a fuel berth, which the Captain was to blame for. He seems to stand in great dread of the flagship. All the men got wet through in shifting berth.

Madeira is looking, if anything, prettier than ever and it lately having been raining has given it a very fresh, clean and bright appearance. Any amount of fruit boats about with bananas, oranges, and figs &c.

We got a telegram containing news of Colonel Festing and 52 men being killed, or wounded in a bush skirmish, and retiring from their camp.

Got a letter from my Father who tells me that they are working at Himalaya and Tamar night and day, to take troops out to Ashantee. I’m afraid we shall suffer much, before we’ve finished with them.

21 November – Friday

Blew very sharp during the night; kept anchor watch and had steam ready at a moment’s notice; barometer also having fallen and swell from SW.

Had general quarters this forenoon and then furled sails and got boats out.

It being my day off, I went ashore in 1.30 pm boat going with Warleigh as a companion. We landed at the landing inside the Looe Rock and set out for the town, a beautiful day to all appearance before us; and whilst touching on the landing, it may not be amiss to say something about the arrangements for boating.

A Greeting of one officer from each ship going to the consulate and arranging that six boats should fly flags, and attend on the ships at a fixed tariff, five on the beach and one inside Looe Rock. Fares, at all times and in all weather 1/– and 3d. to take people through the surf from ships’ boats, abreast the beach. Ships requiring a boat alongside to hoist letter N. Commercial code at peak.

After walking through the town and purchasing some sticks, we made up for the Convent and took a long while fetching up, the road being very steep, and slippery form the rain. All the roads in and about Funchal being paved with small stones, so that as no wheeled vehicles are used. It is very convenient for the sledges &c. that are used.

We reached the Convent in about an hour and a half and remaining there some time, not alas! engaged the whole time in admiring the scenery for most of the time it rained and enveloped us in a thick fog or mist. However at times it cleared up and gave us a charming view of Funchal and the bay, but to my mind not so lovely a view as is to be got from one’s ship in the bay.

What makes the place so charming and not tiring to the eye are the very many shades of foliage and pasturage, going from rich dark brown to dark and light green, with its well wooded glens and rocky high peaks. There is a very pretty ravine on the right of the town, which is called the Small Carral, or by sailors the ‘Midshipman Carral’ and the Grand Carral being some 12 miles out is a day’s trip on horseback.

After some little bargaining and chaffering we got into a basket seat, mounted on two wooded runners and with two men to guide it, we dashed down the road we had come up, its angle at times being, I should think, between 30 degrees and 40 degrees. At times we were going at the rate of 7 or 8 miles an hour, but had to be cautious today on account of the road being so slippery and wet. It took us 20 minutes coming down, and the men told us they often took 8. They are great extortioners, fare down is only 1/– and they naturally tried to get double and wanted wine several times but we only laughed at them.

After purchasing some sticks and giving double price for them we came off in the rain from Looe Rk landing and what with the hubbub and noise that arose from all the ships and shore boats and passengers, just come by a steamer; the confusion was great. The swell coming in, knocking all the boats about, added to it. I wonder that they don’t connect the point and Looe Rk. by a small breakwater. It could not cost much and would make a splendid sheltered place for boats, or even for a steamer to come in and out.

On arriving on board found still greater confusion, having got in 400 bags of bread, 80 casks and 70 bales with 120 cases, 700 lbs of bread were spoilt with the wet. We finished by 8.30 and hoisted boats in at 9 pm.

Won 13 pts at whist. Ought to have dined last with Comdr. Rawson of Hercules, but it came on to rain so heavy, that I begged to be excused.

22 November – Saturday

Raining more or less all day.

23 November – Sunday

Fine day.

The homeward bound mail steamer from the Coast came in, bringing news of two officers being dead; one in action and one from fever in Sierra Leone; and of our men 500 strong, including a brigade of 60 seamen, repulsing 15,000 Ashantees at three separate attacks 7 pm, 12 pm and 5 am; and of the latter being taken with a panic and running, leaving their camp, and the golden cock of the Chief being taken.

Sent home two letters, one to my Father and one to Russie.

24 November – Monday

Transport No 8 Finisterre came in this morning from England on way to the Coast. Manned and armed boats. Admiral Hornby did not think they formed well enough, so he has desired officers in charge of boats to remain on board, until done again. A quiet way of stopping leave.

Whilst furling sails with the watch, two men came down from the Fore Yard. C.F. de Mitchen and Purdie, an AB. The latter fell on to the Bill, fracturing his skull and dying two hours afterwards.

25 November – Tuesday

Buried the poor fellow this afternoon, in the English Cemetery. Our guard today and I had to go to board the outward bound African S.N. Co steamer Senegal, getting mails and papers. Had to wait for about an hour alongside, until the Health Officer had chosen to come off and give her a clean Bill of Health. Adm. Hornby gave us our leave back, by manning boats &c.

26 November – Wednesday

I was wrong in saying Admiral Hornby had given us our leave back yesterday, for he made a signal “Adm. does not require Boat Officers for the present” which looked rather suspicious that it was for the sake of his dance he gave it back.

I went to it, more because the Captain wished it, and was just going to give an order for a certain number to go, but once there I enjoyed myself, as I generally do, if I can rouse myself up to go. Spoke to all the Admirals and Captains. Capt. Graham and Hoskins were very good in getting me partners.

There were a large number of Mids and Subs present, but not more than 7 or 8 Lieuts from the whole fleet, and few girls, about 20 dancing girls. There being no Programmes, whoever was a good hand at cutting out, got the best of it. Thanks to my friends, I got many partners.

Had a whack of drill this morning, gear being foul aloft forward. We had to repeat the evolution several times, doing things in slow time, as we ought to have done long ago.

Had a grand meeting about the Mess this evening lasting 2 hours. Many propositions were carried. Messman to go, and Mess to be fitted up a little more than it is. Expect the Vigilant to come in hourly.

I should not be surprised if we were sent to Cuba on account of the row about the Virginians. I only hope that our heads may be shifted before going, for if not, fever will soon make its appearance.

27 November – Thursday

The Himalaya and Tamar came in this morning bringing the 3rd battalion of the Rifle Brigade and battalion Welsh Fusiliers, with a brigade of Artillery. The town, of course, was full of soldiers, most of them in the grey dress supplied for the occasion, the Govt. charging 28/– for a Norfolk coat and trousers.

Spoke to several of them who told me that the 42nd were under orders to come out, but I most sincerely trust they may not be ordered out.

I paid a visit to the Cossarts No.[?] and made the acquaintance of Madame, and then proceeded on with Smith to the Blandys and was introduced there. Had a game of billiards on a ¼ size table and Ingles, Commander of the Hercules coming up, we all went out for a ride, coming home by the New Road, a capital road for a gallop. Got to their house by about 6.30 and had high tea. After tea, I got the two youngest girls to sing and the evening passed away in whist &c.

The two troopers went out amidst much cheering and playing of bands. I was much struck at noticing on my ride the large amount of sugar that is grown and was told that it was owing to the blight that had fallen on the vine some few years ago and that this year another danger threatened, viz. by insects; that several vines had been destroyed already at the roots by these insects, but the late rains had killed them, making them sink deep into the earth and that lately none had been discovered; but, still there was the fear of eggs being left and means were being taken to find some way of destroying the eggs.

The grapes are still trodden out in the same old way to the sound of music and singing. The best wine is produced from the vineyards just to the Westward of Funchal. The cane (sugar) produces 7 or 8 crops.

Observed a Lunar Rainbow, on coming off.

28 November – Friday

My day off, but drilling until 4 pm prevented my going ashore at all. I think it is a great mistake trying to compete with ships until you have got your men well in hand. It only makes them wild and everything goes wrong, and everyone is made uncomfortable.

29 November – Saturday

Looking out for Usborne’s day duty. Managed to run ashore for a couple of hours, intending to copy a chart of the Ashantee Country. But on arriving up at the Blandys, found the second one (the pretty one) busily engaged copying, so the least I could do was to help her. The other girls getting my paper ready for me very kindly, but being tied down to time, I left my tracing paper up there and came off.

Found Smith in a hobble for having boarded Vigilant before she received pratique, having to send his reasons in for disobeying the Admiral’s order.

I received my ring and a large budget of letters from Home. Was very sorry at hearing of my grandmother’s very severe attack of Bronchitis, and glad to hear my mother has stood all the fatigue so well. She is most dutiful and loving, both as a daughter and a Mother. Was so glad, as I always am, at hearing from all the dear ones at Home – Father, Meta, Russ, Francie, Edith and Ella. Wrote Father and Russie. Dined this evening with Admiral Hornby – a small party.

30 November – Sunday

Being my day on board remained on board all day. Lunched with Oxley, Cardale of Northumberland, Dunlop, Dugdale and Castles, lunching with him also. Had a very good lunch, don’t think much of Cardale.

1 December – Monday

Drill all day.

At 4 o’c. the Blandys and two other ladies came on board, to have tea, had the band up and had tea in the Captain’s Cabin. Afterwards, went on shore and up to their house with Smith, had high tea there and afterwards finished my chart, with Henrietta B. to help me. Then was hauled into a game of whist, with the old people, lost 4/– and came away. Am very glad I have made their acquaintance, as they are very kind and hospitable, being very nice people indeed. The girls kindly gave me their photographs.

2 December – Tuesday

As mail is expected in, leave only granted until sunset.

Paid the Blandys a visit going up in hammock. The girls came out and laughed immensely at my laziness. Had a chat with them and walked round the garden with H.B. Went in most rabidly for ferns and flowers.

I noticed the young sister in a most marked manner, suddenly dropped out of sight, leaving us alone, and thoughts flashed across my mind, that perhaps, it was my duty to propose, however, I did not.

In the evening finding there was leave for the night, Smith, Denny and I went up to the Blandys, found McCrea, Ingles and Duthie up there. Rather too many fellows, stayed until 12 o’clock, much singing and round games going on, managed to lose some money. Had any amount of cautions from Henrietta Blandy about gambling, swore I never did such a thing.

Came down in a bullock cart.

3 December – Wednesday

West Coast mail (homeward) came in, brought news that Sir G. Wolseley was better and able to walk about on board Simoom . Ashantees retreating.

Leave being granted in sight of ships. Went ashore for a walk with Lowe, cut on the new road, Adm. Hornby passed us, but could not recognise us, until passing the second time and then he would not say “How d’ye do.”

Mail came in at 3 pm, but through some stupidity on Postman’s part, and someone else’s, we did not get our letters and they are at present on board the Flagship, for we got under way at 6 pm. Heard that the 42nd were going out to Ashantee.

DEPART MADEIRA

4 December – Thursday

Steaming along with sail set, wind from the Eastward. Captain dined in W.R. A most filthily greasy dinner, as ever I saw, put on.

5 December – Friday

Squadron separated for target practice. As we had none to expend, we rattled off some 3,000 rounds of rifle ammunition. I fired away some 60 rounds myself, my rifle getting quite hot. Drill same as last evening, shift main Topsail Yard and Jib-Booms. Made a great mess of it, men not knowing their stations and getting consequently very wild.

6 December – Saturday

Worked at French all the forenoon and made a chart of Ashantee this afternoon.

Kept 4 to 6, shortened sail and commenced steaming on our course. Shall most probably get in to Lisbon, Monday next.

7 December – Sunday

Nothing has happened, steaming all day.

ARRIVE LISBON

8 December – Monday

Arrived here today at 4 pm and on arrival got a bag of letters which went on board the flagship at Madeira and considering it has been like a millpond all the way, one would have thought, he would have stopped and delivered them.

One from Russ, one from Annie.

Took some time mooring ship. I had the first watch, employed myself studying stars all the time.

9 December – Tuesday

Got the boats out this forenoon. One launch came down by the run from the netting. The Commander sang out “High enough lower away” in one breath, before the men had time to take a turn, so it was very clearly his fault. I always anticipated some accident and I don’t think it is the last we shall have. Most providentially no one was seriously hurt, a couple of boys were cut about in the head.

Dined with Admiral Hancock, sat next Captain Hoskins and opposite Fitz Roy. Smoked a couple of cigars after dinner, not such a stiff formal dinner, but yet not such a good one as Adm. Hornby’s.

Heard that the Bellerophon had run down a large merchant steamer off Cape de Verde, sinking her in 10 minutes, no lives lost. Capt. Hoskins told me he thought the men in Sarmatian were the B.W. [Black Watch] and so made his band play Scotch airs.

Wrote Meta a long cheering letter, and one to Edward which I enclosed to Miss Blandy at Madeira, the Vigilant going this forenoon, Capt. Cleveland kindly took it for me.

10 December – Wednesday

Wrote Russie, Mother and Rob. Heard from Henry. Mrs Graham coming on board went in and paid her a visit, she told me she had written to Meta to cheer her up.

Went out to the Campo Pequeno, a general semaphore having been made that football would take place. I went out there and found only some dozen fellows there and I, the only W.R. officer. However, we divided into sides and went at it, but had to soon knock off, for it came out pretty hot and with such a small number playing we all soon got blowed.

11 December – Thursday

Kept the morning watch. We got all ready for coaling by 6 am; lighters placed (stern to stern), but to our disgust no baskets had come, although promised, so we had to commence with buckets and tubs &c. However about 8.15 they came and the men soon shovelled away clearing the lighters of 350 tons in no time. It is much the quickest way of coaling. The Commander invested in 80 baskets giving £4 for the lot.

Heard that Captain Hoskins expected me to dinner last night, found a blooming error had been made in the semaphore somewhere. (Wrote Mother, Meta, Rus, Rob). Our signalman reading it, from Capt. of Eleven to Capt. of Eleven, and their signalmen saying they made Capt. Hoskins to Lieut Hall. So as the two are not much alike there is hard swearing one side or the other. Went on board Sultan and explained mistake to Capt. Hoskins.

Saw Ponsonby, who kindly showed me all over the Sultan, which is in very good order and is a most splendid ship. Kept Usborne’s afternoon, he having gone away with McDermott for a three days’ shooting trip.

See in today’s papers that news of Bellerophon accident has reached England.

My letters written yesterday went today in English Royal Mail, so they ought to arrive on Sunday.

12 December – Friday

Heard from my Aunt at Gibraltar who told me of some thief having stolen all Harry’s cups (five in number won at athletics) and all his regimental jewellery.

Heard by telegram of Bazaine’s sentence being commuted from death to twenty years detention in fortress.

14 December – Sunday

Mustered by Open List and had short service. After lunch McDermott, Prowett, and I went for a walk going out by the Eastern gate (Number 23) and walking round outside the walls to No 7. On the way round we went into the Portuguese Cemetery and we saw the big trenches that they bury paupers in, and whilst there I saw one of the [strangest] burials it has been my lot to see.

We heard a bell tinkle at the gate and looking round saw two priests, one fat and round as a berry and the other lean and hungry looking, coming along accompanied by some dozen persons, laughing and talking and four of them carrying a box with oval top and covered with yellow cloth striped with black. They walked up to a new made grave and laid the box down, and without more ado, opened the lid, one fellow took the body out by the hands, and the other slung a rope under the feet and soon put the body (of a girl) in its last resting place.

The fat priest gabbled not more than twelve words and then gaily ambled away over the graves, followed by his lean and hungry looking companion. A man took a basket of lime, first having jumped down in the grave, and trod on the body to press it down, and then he threw the lime over the body and the other beggars shovelled the earth down. The whole thing was done in from three to four minutes and I must say, it struck me, a little more reverence might have been shown, for a young man and woman (I conclude his Polly) were skylarking around the edge of the grave and laughing as they nearly fell in. To me there is something very mysterious and awful in Death, in one way.

We got on board for dinner.

15 December – Monday

Drill all the forenoon the men drilled much better, everything going on much more steadily and quietly than usual.

In the afternoon, I had made up my mind to go ashore, but was detained on board through several reasons, inspection of Ham’ks., bedding, Fire Quarters, &c. which brought me up to 5 pm.

The ‘Demon’ being in one of his usual variable humours, of course, made himself entirely disagreeable to everyone. Save me from sailing with him, with no one over him to check him. If he ever gets a ship as a Capt., I’m certain she will be very uncomfortable and a very discontented ship.

The Vigilant came in this evening, bringing news from Madeira. Sir G W well again, I got a letter from Miss Blandy.

17 December – Wednesday

Heard from Home yesterday the mails having come by Vigilant from Madeira. This forenoon we were inspected by Admiral Hornby, he coming on board at 9.30, and making us send down I. jlr [?]. Masts and then crossing Royal Yards exercising at General Quarters, Boarders, Fire-Brigade, passing up shell and powder.

In the afternoon, manned and armed boats, Fire Quarters and I put a small arms company through their exercise. This finished the first day’s inspection.

In the evening the Pacific Mail coming in, brought me a couple of letters from Home and one from Lily. Wrote the latter.

18 December – Thursday

Admiral finished inspection today by mustering beds &c., bags and hooks. I think he was tolerably satisfied.

I went ashore in the afternoon and paid Mrs Graham a visit and after dinner went to a large teetotal meeting, at which the Sultan nigger troupe, (all good templars), performed, Ponsonby bringing them out. I was rather surprised to see him and did not think it was in his line. There were about 250 bluejackets present, most being teetotallers. Was glad to see my servant Elliss there, who has taken my advice and gone in for it. He was enrolled one of the I.O.G.T. last night, so he told me.

19 December – Friday

Alas! we are to remain behind to await the arrival of Eclipse from England with supernumaries, and also to go out and meet Aurora outside the bar, passing over to her invalids and prisoners having of the latter 15 from the fleet. So, I trust Eclipse may come in soon.

Prepared for action this morning, made a mess of sending Fore Topsail Yard down. So, this afternoon did it all over again. So, with the exception of my meal hours, I had been on deck from 4 am to 3.30 pm, it being my day off. I can see that we shall be always last and always drilling, unless we go to work the right way in drilling the men. They should be drilled slowly and made to do things well and steadily, before attempting to compete with other ships. We should have done it, when laying in Tagus by ourselves; and I said then it was not the right way to go about it, drilling the men before they had steadied down.

I attribute much of the fault to C.L.O and wonder at Capt. G. not doing it in a different style. It certainly is not Brandreth’s way of doing business. Wrote to Father, Mother, Rus, Rob, Meta and Francie. Mail steamer going this evening and hoping to save Xmas day in England.

20 December – Saturday

Thick fog which delayed the fleet sailing until the afternoon.

21 December – Sunday

Went ashore to Church, and came off to keep afternoon watch, and went to evening church again in company with Warleigh, drinking tea first at Pope’s. After the service, went with Capt. and Mrs Graham and had supper. French Corvette arrived in.

22 December – Monday

No leave between sunrise and sunset, as we are all ready to slip out at a moment’s notice to meet the Aurora, but she did not appear.

Drilled during the forenoon. Vigilant came in from Madeira. No news.

23 December – Tuesday

At 8.30 am a man of war was seen coming in, thought at first it was Aurora, and commenced to get under weigh. It turned out to be the Eclipse from England. We passed her off Belem signalling to her that we would be back during the day some time. We cruised about off the mouth of the River, but saw no signs of Aurora. Had a chase after one ship, but it turned out to be a three masted schooner, so just before dusk we came in.

24 December – Wednesday

Employed all the forenoon ashore doing different things, taking a cutter with me, fully provisioned in case ship sailed, whilst I was employed ashore. However, I fetched off about 12 o’clock, and was going to sail a cutter against the Comdr, in his gig, during the afternoon, when a large ship was reported off the bar, which ship eventually turned out to be the Aurora.

We got the anchor up immediately and met her off Belem; but she let go her anchor, and signalled to us to do the same; as she had five tons of stores to send, so, it was not long before we had out pinnace and whipped the whole lot on board and hoisted pinnace in again, all ready for starting in the morning. Sent letters and figures (clay) &c. to Captain Douglas for my people at home.

25 December – CHRISTMAS DAY

Getting up anchor this morning, instead of proceeding to sea, we steamed up the river again and dropped Killick, in the same old place; for the Admiralty had telegraphed out, to send artificers to Vigilant, to have her ready by the 28th.

Sir Alex’d. Milne telegraphing he would supersede the Chief Engineer, if she was not ready, (her boilers require scaling badly). So we sent ten men to work in her and telegraphed to Adm. Hornby to know if we should come at once, or wait for Vigilant to sail, so he said do the latter.

We had a short service and then the usual march round, and eating of duffs, &c. Warleigh informing us he had eaten 26 pieces of duff, on his way round. The afternoon today passed off uncommonly quiet, none of the officers were carried round, some young ords. and boys went to the G.R. and were rather demonstrative, which they paid for very dear; as they were knocked about a good deal. One fellow, B--e by name, licking one fellow most unmercifully with a stick, no resistance. I saw it and thought it most cowardly. Had a quiet dinner in W.R. and kept the Middle watch afterwards.

26 December – Friday

Prepared for action this forenoon. The Eclipse sailed for Madeira this forenoon. Remained on board all day.

27 December – Saturday

Turned out at 4 am together with Lowe, Farquhar and Ottley, as we intended going up to C. for the day. Having devoured some breakfast we anxiously looked out for the boat that we had ordered at 4, but no boat arrived, owing, I suppose to the lightning &c. We waited and waited most patiently, still no boat, and at 7 we had to decide to give up C. and go to a place some eight miles from Casilhas called Filhas d’Amor, at which place are some extensive pinewoods. We managed to get a ship’s boat at 8 and landed at Casillas and soon bargained for donkeys at 2/– for the day.

We did not take long mounting and were soon off; five of us, my servant accompanying us. It rained cats and dogs. Two boys followed with goads, prodding the donkeys up, who kept up a sort of half trot the whole way. We had some fun on the way. The donkeys rolling over sometimes, and sending gun and rider flying but, it being soft ground, did not matter much. We got out a little before 10 am and alighting at the inn, a very clean place, immediately ordered some hot coffee and eggs, which we found uncommonly good. Then leaving our donkeys there, we set out, (wet pretty well through) for the pine woods and beat about there some two or three hours, howling &c. but to little purpose, as we saw but two, or three woodcocks the whole time. It was very poor sport, so we then turned out of the wood and looked for snipe, but with as bad a success. Farquhar shot a woodcock which was the only thing we got the whole day, only two or three cartridges being fired the whole time.

So, making for the inn again, after eating some more eggs and omelettes, (the latter article of which I learnt to make) we started for home and got down to Casillas at 6 pm. Coming off to the ship by 7. Denny returned from Azambuja, with Prowett bringing a good bag of snipe and woodcocks. Vigilant sailed.

DEPART LISBON

28 December – Sunday

Started this morning at 6 am for Vigo, passed Mafra about 10 am. It seems a tremendous large pile of building with two immense towers, at each end and a large dome and two high towers in centre. Country around it seems very poor, it has a surrounding of small hovels and houses. Commands good view of the sea. Passed the Malabar steaming to the southward and a lot of English SS. A good deal of friction going on again, I expect that Cdr Hby [?]. will have to go.

ARRIVE VIGO

29 December – Monday

Running along the coast with a good fresh breeze, and as we are steaming too, we easily get nine knots out of her (more friction going on). Arrived at Vigo about 7 pm and found the Flag here. Lively just left for Lisbon. Got our mails, I got a large budget of letters (from Meta) and some mistletoe and holly, which has come however, rather late.

30 December – Tuesday

This afternoon accompanied by Smith, I went ashore and vainly endeavoured to find my little friend the Contessa, and her Mother the Countess. I found that nothing was known of them at all. So we took a walk out into the country, and strolled through the lanes, that I knew so well. Had a game of billiards with Smith at the Casino, he thrashed my head off.

31 December – Wednesday

This was the first day of the regatta, the pulling races coming off today, it rained most of the day, coming down in showers. We did not manage to win many prizes. Saw the old year out and new year in, held a convivial meeting in W.R. with the Gun Room fellows.

1874

1 January – Thursday

Another new year born.

The sailing races came off today. We did not manage to win any. I sailed one of the launches, and came in 5th.

2 January – Friday

We then had to beat up to No 2 Buoy and alas! I soon found out the Cup was not for me. The Comdr in his lateen rigged gig and Britten in his yacht rigged like Pinnace taking the lead, together with the Admiral’s Barge. But, the race was not to the swift, not the strong, for it fell a dead calm about 3 pm and after all the boats drifting about until 5 pm the general recall was made and race given up for this day.

3 January – Saturday

We sailed again today with a tremendous breeze and I wished I’d had more than six rum casks and twelve breakers for I found that hardly enough. The Admiral’s Barge soon went over bottom up and several boats stopped and went to her assistance, however, I kept on, seeing the number that surrounded her, and went round the course once and had hardly done so when I fell into the doldrums. A few boats kept the wind and scuttled away and whilst I was lopping about in a calm, I saw the Comdr, rounding No 1 Buoy again and bringing a spanking breeze with him. He rounded No 2 Buoy first, followed by two Cutters 500 yds, astern, but then fell into the doldrums, by going a little too close into the shore. The cutters passed him, he then got the wind and all three boats came in, the Comdr losing by a boat’s length.

The Agincourt band played Cheer up Sam to Oxley as he passed. The Hercules pinnace went over some time during the afternoon. So the Committee have decided it must be raced again, much to Cardale’s vexation and disappointment, who had come in the leading boat. We weigh tomorrow for Corcubion. Wrote my Father and Rus.

DEPART VIGO

ARRIVE CORCUBION

4 January – Sunday

Went ashore this afternoon with McDermott and Lowe for a stroll, we walked through hedges and down lanes, a very pretty walk and got down to the trout stream going along it some way. Saw some fish and turned a snipe up. Collected a lot of ivy, and brought it on board for pressing. The whole country, looks more as if it was in the Spring than in the middle of the winter, the trees only bear witness by their leafless condition as to what season of the year it is. On arriving on board, find that we have to await the arrival of Enchantress.

5 January – Monday

Heard of the coup d’état that has occurred at Madrid, Castelar clearing out a lot of objectionable members from the Cortes.

6 January – Tuesday

This afternoon Enchantress came in. We sighted her at 12.30 pm and she was at it by 7.10 pm. So, she came along a good rate up the bay. She brought any amount of letters and papers. I received several from my Father, 2 Mother, Rob, Meta and Capt. Fellowes, the latter, of course, was full of yarns &c. My father wrote me a very long one indeed and my Mother also who told me how devoted all the women in Ropery were to her and what pleasant meetings they had every week, but, I regret to say that old Russ gives much anxiety with regard to his extravagance and bills. Rob went yesterday to a school in Germany, I trust the lad will do well and not forget his Home teaching. Wrote letters to Lily, Mother, Father, Russ, Rob, Meta to go home by Mail steamer tomorrow and wrote to Edward by Enchantress.

7 January – Wednesday

Started early this forenoon for Corcubion meeting a stiff S. W’ly wind outside which soon ripened into a gale.

8 January – Thursday

Blowing a S. W’ly gale. Fleet laying off Cape Finisterre, just about the spot the unfortunate Captain was lost, under close reefed Topsails and reefed courses, helm jammed hard up. It hardly matters what sail is set, with regard to the carrying of the helm, wearing at different times during the day, and previous night. Parson seasick, as usual.

9 January – Friday

Still blowing fierce about 9, but wind breaking. Ship beginning to roll pretty heavily, a tremendous crash in my cabin, ink-pot over photograph book, and a few such playful frolics going on. Some difficulty in eating dinner, with ship rolling.

10 January – Saturday

A fine morning, my throat being somewhat sore during the last week was not improved by wearing ship last night and then furling sails etc. Fleet came in and anchored in Corcubion Bay, by no means a badly sheltered bay, at least the inner bay in which we are in. For Corcubion Bay proper is a large inlet of the Sea, Cape Finisterre on the north and open to the SW but, at the end of the Bay another small inlet runs up to the north and is only open to the south’d. But, from this direction even no great sea can get up, for several reefs run across, which can be seen from deck, leaving a zigzag passage in. In this small Bay, a double line of ships to the number of 20 can be safely moored. Have been on deck all day and am pretty well tired out.

11 January – Sunday

Went ashore this afternoon with McDermott and strolled through several very dirty villages, (much resembling I should think an Irish village) full of pits and little else except dirt. Houses built of stone and rather ancient looking, streets crooked and narrow, nothing to be got in the shape of grub, so our caterers are at their wits’ end to provision us. Plenty of women about, not very good looking, not many men.

All the villages possess a market cross with images of our Saviour and the Virgin Mary and the Churches have pretty little belfry towers, quite unique of their kind. The Country is very bleak, mountainous, and rocky, very hard and rough walking, a good road leads away, I think to Corunna. It is one peculiarity of Spain, that whilst everything is so backward, its roads can compete with any country. Dined with Capt. Hoskins, Sultan.

12 January – Monday

After General Quarters this forenoon, I shouldered my gun and taking Elliss with me, tramped over the hills through thick gorse which tickles me up somewhat, above my gaiters. I started at 11 o’c and continued on the walk almost continually until 5 pm but during that interval I saw very few partridges, and only had a good shot at one, on the hill, just abreast the ship and opposite Corcubion.

To get good shooting it is requisite to have a dog and go some little way into the Country. Passed over a very pretty trout stream which flows into the sea, by the beach at head of bay.

13 January – Tuesday

Nothing going on. Heard a yarn about Sir John Jervis, who was very particular that all rope yarns when swept up should be put into a bag abaft the mainmast, which rather non-plussed poor Jack. Well a certain Captain Jenkins rather fought against this order, which Lord St V. knew; and one day it happened that Captain J. was going alongside flagship, as a large piece of oakum floated from the Head. The Admiral seeing it float by sang out; “Captain J, Captain J. will you be kind enough to pick up yarn floating by, that belongs to Her Majesty’s Stores.” Captain J. looking at it said, “It is dirty, my lord. It is dirty, my lord. Then wash it Captain J, then wash it”, which Capt. J. did and brought on board, being a lesson to him to be more careful how he fought against his superiors.

DEPART CORCUBION

ARRIVED AROSA BAY

14 January – Wednesday

Having unmoored last night, we had only the single anchor to heave up this morning, and left Corcubion bay at 7 am. I shall be very glad indeed at leaving the Channel Fleet, for it is really a case of worry, worry all day long, and not possessing a Commander who knows how to oil the machinery, it is also a case of much friction added to the worry. The Lieut scored one against him, yesterday with regard to being excused when middle watch. He made himself as disagreeable as he possibly could about it.

Arrived and anchored in Arosa Bay (a large well sheltered bay, full of rocks however, and with several small towns round it) at 4 pm. Having middle watch, must run in, as I intend going up to Santiago tomorrow, D.V.

15 January – Thursday

This morning, after breakfasting, Usborne and I started off in steam launch with a lot of other fellows, (including Iva Diavols [?]), from this ship and on way through the fleet picked up a small host of fellows from the different ships and had proceeded about half way ashore, when Hulbert in charge of steam launch suddenly discovered there was a marvellous small amount of water in boiler and that the feed pump was out of order and would not pump. As soon as the fact became known an imperceptible move was made to the stern as far from the boiler as possible. Boats hailed up the flag-ship’s cutter and moved off at once with their officers. Captain took Usborne and me, the fires had to be thrown overboard, and steam let off, so launch of course, was useless. Eventually all the fellows got ashore, by some means or other.

On arriving at the Station, we found ourselves an hour too soon and the small station was crowded with an army of naval officers in mufti, from the Admiral down to the Mids! We all got complimentary tickets and first class carriages, starting at 11 o’c. We steered for Santiago some 20 odd miles off, passing through pretty thickly wooded, but not to my mind a very rich country. But, as we did not pass through any large valleys, I daresay we did not see the best country. The hills are rocky and not well wooded. About a few miles outside Villagarcia we passed over a good wide river that runs into the harbour.

In about an hour and a half’s time we first sighted Santiago, in the shape of its large Cathedral, the towers topping up high in the distance. In another half hour’s time we ran into the station and found a large crowd of people waiting to look at us. Amongst them a lot of pretty senoritas, the good people had expected us all up in uniform and deputations had come to meet the Admiral who was regularly caught in his own trap, for he was in mufti, on an occasion when he might really have thought twice about not going in uniform.

Usborne and I cleared ourselves from the throng and shaped course for the town, passing crowds of people going down to the station to go to the fleet, (handbills being stuck up all over the place saying the ships were thrown open to the public). After getting some lunch at the Cafe, we had a look at the Cathedral, a large building built in the form of a Cross, its West Front being the finest. Had a look at St James’ tomb and kissed his head, getting 80 days indulgence for it.

There are numerous chapels in the Cathedral, but all rather tawdry and in usual R.C. style. The town is poor, large, contains 30,000 people; the town was full, being a market day and looked bright and lively, the women wearing those very bright kerchiefs on their heads.

The town has some historical interest for us Islanders, John of Gaunt having conquered and kept possession of it for some time. It is a great place of pilgrimages for the Spaniards.

Leaving the place at 4 pm we did not get down until 6.30 and on coming down to the beach found the boats could not get within 150 yds of the beach, so Usborne and I off trousers and waded out. Not finding our boats, we drew the Hercules out and then they drew the Agincourt and the latter the Sultans, so eventually some 50 Naval Officers were paddling about with their trousers off, howling like anything for their boats. Ultimately we found one dingy and by making a lot of trips we got all the fellows off to our steam launch and we got on board at 8 pm. The boats should have gone higher up to Carrel where there is a Mole. We made a good dinner. Wrote home (F).

16 January – Friday

A slashing breeze all this forenoon, so, off some 30 boats started I steering the galley, but soon dropped astern. After rounding No 2 Buoy the wind veered right round and came on extremely strong and the boats were all going a tremendous rate, my boat trembling with that delightful noise, so dear to anyone that enjoys sailing a boat. On nearing the No 3 Buoy a very heavy squall came down and I had to brail up my sails and take my masts down for fear of the boat capsizing.

As I was the last boat, it did not matter much. The Barge that was leading had to reef, otherwise she would have capsized and pinnace came in first almost sailing on her side, winning by 55 seconds. Comdr. coming in 3rd. Therefore Britten wins the Cup. Two boats capsized, Northumberland’s cutter and Hercules’ dingy. No one lost, I got on board at 2 and had lunch with the Captain.

DEPART AROSA BAY

ARRIVE VIGO

21 January – Wednesday

Have been so uncommonly busy that I really have not had time to write up my journal.

Monday 19th last we left Arosa Bay reaching Vigo a few hours afterwards; finding Ariel in here. I’ve been very busy getting all the books up with regard to the seamanship of the ODs and boys, as charge of them has been turned over to me. I’m excused watch in harbour, unless any drill is going on, and then I’ve got to come on deck and carry on. I’ve also to do Guard Duty. I commenced my new duties yesterday forenoon, and don’t think I shall find it a sinecure; more especially as some 70 odd boys have been put into my division.

We leave this afternoon for Lisbon. Meeting Revenge there. I hear Sir I. Dacres has retired, which makes my Father two from the top of Rear Admiral. Wrote home yesterday and to Russ.

DEPART VIGO

23 January – Friday

The Mail came in yesterday, but brought me no letter. We sailed from Vigo at about 9 am with a light wind astern, have been steaming along the coast, sighting the Berlengas at 6 this evening. Busy this afternoon with my Boys and Ords. find some of them extremely backward.

ARRIVE LISBON

25 January – Sunday

Arrived in here yesterday at noon and after the mooring, unbending sails etc. was over, the men must have been pretty tired. The two head people not getting on together, makes everyone else uncomfortable, and we fall in for any amount of extra drills etc which quite wears one out.

Heard on arrival of the dissolution of Parliament; marriage of the Duke of Edinburgh with great pomp etc.

Went to the English Church both morning and evening, very full in the morning, took young Handy in the evening. Spoke to Admiral Sartorius, the senior Admiral on the list. Usborne heard of his promotion by telegraph, I’m very glad he has got it, but sorry to lose him. Heard from my Mother.

26 January – Monday

General leave, so no drill, took bags etc and away part of the day in steam launch, it being my guard. Comdr had a large party of Comdrs on board to dinner. Rawson, Ingles, Cardale, and Warren, Lieut of Lively, Dugdale of Triumph. After dinner we adjourned to Comdr’s. cabin and smoked and playing Las, in which I did not join not being able to afford it.

29 January – Thursday

Just come off from some Penny Readings at the Sailors’ Reading Rooms, the Sultans under Ponsonby’s guidance being the chief performers. Comdr Markham and several others read and we had a lot of songs, some very fairly sung. Bought some old books today for a mere song, giving 200 reis for 3 volumes of Lord Chesterfield’s Letters and 500 reis for 6 volumes of Richardson’s Sir Charles Grandison. General leave being given, I’ve not had much to do, with the exception of Guard Duty.

Received an invitation from Adm. Sartorius to a musical party tomorrow night. Saw his flag, the Union Jack at the main saluted, the first time I’ve seen an Admiral of Fleet’s flag saluted. Heard a good joke by Pope this evening. When is a Captain of a ship heavily clothed? When he wears his ship. Carrow our new Lieut comes out in Revenge.

Gladstone notifies in his speech that he will do away with Income Tax, it will give my Father about £35 a year more, of which, I’m very glad.

31 January – Saturday

Running about all yesterday in steam launch boarding vessels. Revenge came in at 10 am and stayed until 2 pm bringing a lot of officers and men. We got a Lieut Carrow, wears spectacles and is very shortsighted. I should think would drop in for any amount of rows about not keeping station, besides Carrow we got 2 subs. Langdale and Burke and three Mids, N.C.Rolleston, Burden and Blake. I got nothing by her, much to my disappointment, as I expected some parcels and a bicycle.

I very nearly got into a serious scrape in the afternoon. I took 10 bags of Mails down to Pacific mail steamer, and as she was in quarantine, I could not get a receipt for them, and in passing them in, I only passed in 8 and did not discover the other two until I was back alongside my ship. I then immediately shoved off, put her under as much steam as she could bear and rattled off for Belem again.

To my horror, I saw Mail steamer was underway. Fortunately for me, her head was up stream and she took some time in turning and I got down to Belem in time, and only just in time, and very thankful I was to, for I expect there would have been Old Harry to play if I had missed her.

In the evening, getting Smith to take my guard, I steered for Sir George Sartorius, Senior Admiral in Navy, for I had received invitation to a musical, dancing party. I had a talk with the old man, who told me about Ld Collingwood, and I promised to bring him up some letters of his. Miss S. the youngest is by no means bad looking. There were a good many Portuguese there and I actually found myself dancing vis-à-vis to a live Admiral. I left at 2.30 am and got up this morning pretty early to take guard report to flag-ship. After lunch, I made for Sir George’s and brought to in his drawing room, giving him a lot of old letters, Anson’s, Collingwood’s, Claud Shevolis’s [?] and St Vincent’s and had a talk with the pretty Miss S. Upon my word, my heart and my heels were tripped up at the same moment last night in dancing with her.

Afterwards, I walked out to the cricket ground and found the marines had beaten us by 26 runs, owing to the bad generalship on our side. Walked in and dined on board, receiving a letter from home.

2 February – Monday

Yesterday remained on board and took the Holy Communion in company with Usborne and Lowe. In the evening went with Usborne to evening service, taking young Charrington with us. After service going into Popes, and chin-chinning with the Sartorius family.

This forenoon we had sail drill and afternoon manned and armed boats. I went away in Pinnace and Bedford who was inspecting all the boats sang out to me “What water are you in?” thinking to catch me on the ground hop. Fortunately, I had a lead, but not enough line, however, knowing the depth of water I sang out confidently “11 fms” at which B. grinned as I did also.

After dinner a lot of us went to the bazaar and the place was crammed full of people. I was assailed by any amount of pretty girls and of course found myself also, as much to my astonishment as to anyone else’s, walking about with a doll on my arm; the lady who sold it, assuring me in a most solemn manner, it had all its clothes on; then a belt rather expensive, but the damsel looked at me smiling so sweetly, and saying, “Wouldn’t you buy it, for it is all my own work?”. I said, “Wouldn’t I!” and out came 10/. Donald, Denny and Warleigh, distinguishing themselves by getting us lotteries and raffles.

5 February – Thursday

Heard from both Russ and Lel, long letters. Russ tells me, N C is looking forward to having a good flirtation with me when I go to London, so I sent word back, I was keeping myself in trim.

Last Tuesday went to a Ball given at the Lisbon Club, touching at the Bazaar on the way, find the Lisbonese go very late indeed. It is a very good club indeed, and a fine ball room. Got introduced to the pretty widow, Mrs Anderson, and opened the Ball with her in the shape of a Waltz, as no one else would start.

Came away early and had to be out early next morning at 4 am to board Enchantress from Madeira. She brought very good news, 1,100 seamen and marines within a day’s march of Coomassie [Kumasi] and 200 ‘sajers’, expected to be there by 23rd so by this time it ought to be very nearly over.

Yesterday afternoon, being invited by Comdr Rawson, I went on board the Hercules to an afternoon dance, and a very pleasant little dance it was too, just the right number of gentlemen and ladies. The Sartorius’ were there and the widow – with both of which I danced. The Hercules is in magnificent order.

In the evening after dinner, I went to the Opera to see Matilda de Chabran by Rossini. The House was full; every box, pit and stall. King and Queen there, Sartorius there and paid them a visit in their Box. The Opera is serio-comic and has some very pretty duets in it. The Soprano, Orolaine Triberini sang very well and her acting was faultless, and the Contralto, Marchesio (whom, I heard five years ago), was also beautiful, a most full, rich, mellow and powerful voice; as is Triberini’s also, and it was most exquisite when the two sang duets together, perfectly ravishing. I came away very pleased, got on board at 1 o’c and turned out early this morning to unmoor which took from 6 – 9 and we got underway at 11 o’c. steering for Madeira, Mrs Graham taking a passage in Agincourt with Admiral H. Old Usborne went away yesterday in steamer, with Laprimandaye who has retired from service and is going home. He gave me all the late news of Rapid which is at Cadiz.

DEPART LISBON

8 February – Sunday

Steaming down to Madeira, about 4 knots, we have had very fine weather, light head winds hitherto. Tried at a Target Friday last and went to night quarters. 12 o’clock that evening, just as we beat off, Smith went down in an epileptic fit, brought on, I’m sorry to say there is no doubt, from drink. I don’t think he will keep watch again and the wisest thing he can do is to leave ship or retire, more especially as the Capt. is pretty sure to inform Admiral about it.

Had two youngsters to dine with me, Barber and De Lisle. Heard a very fair yarn from Donald.

A couple just married and going to drive off, a tremendous great band-box was put on front seat of carriage, and husband seeing it was in the way said “Put it on top of carriage.” Wife said, “Please don’t. Keep it here.” Husband just giving in, when butler put his head into window and said, “Master, band-box now, band-box ever.” Husband said at once firmly, “Put that band-box on top of carriage” and handing a £5 note to butler said, “You’ve saved me.”

Had a charity sermon this morning and a collection afterwards, using sponge covers for bags, but getting only £2.2s.

10 February – Tuesday

Been turning circles all day in pairs, Agincourt and ourselves making up one pair. It was to determine whether a ship going at different speeds, makes the same diameter in a circle, a Frenchman saying they make the same. I was up at Moorsom’s director all day, from 8.30 until 5.30, and the first watch after that, so I had quite enough of it.

ARRIVE MADEIRA

13 February – Friday

Came here last Wednesday in forenoon, and that evening went to a Ball given by Lord Dunalley, who is staying here with his daughter about 19, his son being in the Rifles out at Ashantee. It was a very pleasant dance. I met the Blandys there. The room was so very tastefully got up, I don’t think I’ve ever seen flowers and ferns arranged better.

Last night, I spent up at the Blandys and on returning on board at 11 o’c and having been asleep a couple of hours, had a rouse out at 2 and go aboard mail steamer just arrived, getting news from Cape Coast of 27th Jan. Capt. Blake’s death and the near approach of Naval Brigade (leading) and troops to Coomassie. This morning, we had xxx and this afternoon, I went ashore, making a call on Capt. and Mrs G. meeting Prittie there, then after talking and arranging about the dance with Capt. and his Dame, I went a shopping, buying sticks and little things for Capt’s. dance tomorrow.

14 February – Saturday

The Dance was most successful, ship decorated well, and deck well chalked (for which I take credit). There were a great number of people there, but the sexes very well divided. The Mail came in about six pm and brought me a couple of letters, one from my Mother and the other from my Father, which alas! was a long letter, containing news of Russ, who, I sadly fear is causing much anxiety and expense to our parents. I shall be very glad indeed to get near him; for he is very unstable and requires much ballast.

England full of election. The Conservatives are, I’m glad to say carrying everything before them. Wrote a long letter to Russ.

15 February – Sunday

Went ashore in cutter and brought the Baroness Keffenbrinck-Ascheraden and Mrs Wordsworth off, the former being the daughter of Count Keelmansegge, aforetime German Ambassador in England and the latter granddaughter of the poet. Sent Charrington and Harford ashore for a ride, the Baroness standing horses and at 6 pm went ashore myself, to dine there. She is residing at the Vigia, a lovely place, overlooking the Looe Rock, most charming gardens, with a house to match, everything beautifully laid out and plants and shrubs of all descriptions growing in superabundance. Had a very quiet good dinner and spent a very quiet pleasant evening, made the acquaintance of Wordsworth senior, the Baron and Mr Hannington, a very gentlemanly fellow. They were all excessively kind to the youngsters, and made very much of them.

16 February – Monday

Drilled my boys etc. this forenoon. Agincourt dance came off, in spite of its blowing hard. Joined Oxley’s party this evening, three Comdrs. etc they all adjourned to cabin above for gambling at which I did not assist.

17 February – Tuesday

This afternoon, a most enjoyable party at the Baroness’, our Band played and played extremely well. I was in a mortal funk of its being late, as the Jolly was detained 20 minutes for butcher. However by dint of hurrying them up, I got them up just in time. There were a tremendous number of naval officers there, but I managed to get as many dances as I required; a splendid room for dancing.

19 February – Thursday

Hercules tea party came off this afternoon, I believe notwithstanding Lent, many danced, when the band struck up. Lowe and I went ashore for a walk toiling up the hill to the Mount Church literally running with perspiration. It took us about an hour getting up. I dropped into the Blandys on the way and got some flowers. We came down in a sleigh after admiring the scenery very much, and did some little shopping in the town; came off to dinner. Hannington, a fellow staying at the Vigia, dining with me.

After dinner we went to the Sultan Chrysty’s. Found a good many ladies there notwithstanding two other ships also giving entertainment of a similar character. (Agincourt giving theirs ashore). Ponsonby led the duties, it was a very good affair, especially the song composed by the occasion about Naval Brigade. Everett was very good at his tricks. In the break-down we were all kept on tenterhooks, for the leader, most energetic fellow, had split his breeches in front and we were all afraid of an exposé. Lots of liquor and cigars about, got on board 11.30.

21 February – Saturday

The Mail coming in this forenoon, caused us to up anchor and turn our head towards Lisbon. I got several letters by her, one from my father and the others from others of the family; all well, Edward expected home about end of March, from Cape Coast, so we shall both arrive home about the same time. Wrote Ned.

Last night the Baroness’ party came off. The gardens were very well lit up, some 5,000 small lights being used for the purpose, besides large ones; a large Eagle, Anchor, and V.R. being displayed. Sultan’s band playing, a fine night, stars shining out, numerous groups of naval officers in epaulettes etc. strolling about, many with fair damsels on their arms, strains of sweet music, shady walks. What could be more enchanting or more decisive in shape of an ultimatum to officers of the fleet, however, nothing I’m sorry to say (for the Madeira lasses sake) came of it.

I left at 10.30 bidding good-bye to my kind friends the Blandys. Smith and I had the two eldest off to tea yesterday afternoon. We’ll be up at 4 am and with the spray of the briny, our hearts soon get restored to their usual state. I’m afraid, a naval officer though sometimes caught, goes about too much from “post to post” to get thoroughly melted, and does not remain long eno’ at any one place.

DEPART MADEIRA

23 February – Monday

A quiet Sunday, steaming since leaving Madeira, at a steady rate, with an east wind against us. Fleet, trying most economical rate of steaming, find ours is 1 knot, not a racing speed. Smith going to Lisbon with us, invalided, and strange infatuation going in for L. same as before. He can’t last long, if he will continue in same course.

24 February – Tuesday

Steam Tactics, all day. This evening just after drill, Enchantress hove in sight and soon came up signalling news of battle loss on our side 240 killed and wounded. By semaphore we got more particulars, the Naval Brigade losing 39, 42nd. 109, 23rd 53, Rifles 20, Rawson’s brother and Capt. Grabbe wounded.

ARRIVE LISBON

27 February – Friday

Came in this afternoon, and its blowing so hard caused us to moor without swivel, close under the South Shore. Heard by telegram of the formation of Ministry and think Dizzy has a very strong one, with a majority of 50 in House of Commons. Heard from Home.

28 February – Saturday

Been working at cables all the day from 7.30 am to 6 pm except the dinner hour. Altogether we have in somewhere near 60 shackles of cable, for, after unmooring and getting over to N side of river, we moored and put the swivel on; but Admiral made signal to shift as we were a point out in bearing.

Heard by telegram of our being ordered Home by 10th or thereabouts. So we are to leave on the 7th.

1 March – Sunday

Last night, at 11.30 pm I went on deck and heard the Vigilant heaving in, so, as Comdr was asleep, I took dingy and lowered her down on my own hook; as, I was very anxious to send a letter to the Coast to Edward. I just got on board in time, and gave my letter to Capt. Cleveland, who told me of Koomassie being taken on the 4th after five days fighting. It was a most welcome piece of news but, I’m sorely afraid there will be a long list of casualties, and I hope they will soon be back as Peace was to be signed on the 5th. Heard from Home and of dear Russell’s merciful preservation from being crushed at a Ball, the floor giving way and he being precipitated down to flat below, a lady underneath and one above, and a large buffet within an inch or two of his head. Fortunately no one was seriously hurt.

Yesterday, I went up to Custom House and found a parcel for me there, that had been lying stowed away for about a month, and I only heard of its being there by chance.

The Custom Authorities here are very slack and pig-headed and slow as the snail. Went to Evening Service, after which went to Pope’s and had a long conversation about Spiritualism and I must say, his statement of facts, corroborated by his wife and sister, shook my disbelief very much.

Received invitation to Admiral Hancock’s to dinner Tuesday next.

2 March – Monday

Had a quiet day. I took the Mids. for a run aloft on the ripper and Topsail Yards. Heard by telegram of formation of Board of Admiralty and that Admiral Hornby was likely to go there, and that the Claimant had got 14 years penal service, being proved to be Arthur Orton. Wrote to the Blandys, enclosing my photographs.

4 March – Wednesday

Dined last night with Admiral Hancock, meeting Admiral Hornby and all the Captains and Comdrs of fleet except our Captain. A very pleasant dinner, our gambling Comdr and Bruce began outside in stern walk to play, and were surprised by Admiral Hancock who coolly bagged all the swag, and did not give it up for some short time.

Lunched in the Gun Room this afternoon, a very heavy lunch given by the Subs. to a lot of fellows from fleet, Carrow, Smith and myself. Heard by mail steamer that total casualties in five days fighting of troops was under 300 killed and wounded, principally the latter and that they were to leave Coomassie for Coast on February 6th, so I trust fever would not take many of them.

5 March – Thursday

6 March – Friday

Lively came in today, bringing my figures and cigars. For the former I had to pay 5½ dollars each and rather expensive. Heard from my Uncle at Gib.

Miss Peile came off with six ladies, including the Countess Murca and her daughter, an heiress so I was informed by Miss Peile in a confidential tone. Miss Peile is 17 rather pretty and a daughter of Captain Peile RN, Simoom, who married a Portuguese. His daughter is quite a Portuguese in opinion, but very nice. She brought me off a photograph of the King and Queen of Portugal, as she did not admire the ones I had in my book, and made me give one of my Father, and told me her mother knew him very well indeed, and wants me to go and see them.

DEPART LISBON

7 March – Saturday

This morning unmoored and at 10.30 fleet weighed and proceeded out of harbour.

I had the afternoon watch and a most unfortunate accident occurred which I’d have given anything not to have happened, more especially in my Watch. At 1 o’c to 3 o’c, the patent log was put overboard starb’d side, we were going 6 knots through the water, and I was on port side of bridge just taking the angle of flag-ship, which I heard a shout of “Man overboard.” I shouted “Away Life Boat Crew. Let go life-buoy” and put indicator to stop Engines. I looked over side and saw Moore (Leading Seaman) swimming in to ship before gangway. I sang out “Hard a Port” and Deulphey [?], Quarter Master, threw circular life buoy close to him.

I was busy lowering boat, (for she was nearly being capsized) so I could not keep my eye on man, but, it appears, although close to three life buoys, he did not go to them, but caught hold of the log line, which must have dragged him under immediately and half–drowned him. For of course he could not have held on anyway, and the instrument was damaged, so he must have got mangled by the screw of log and obliged to let go, for he was seen afterwards and was then missed, his cap was picked up close to life-buoys.

Langdon and Langdale, Sub Lieuts, both jumped after him, but did not get near him. As, I was lowering boat it flashed across my mind to sing out “Cut the line if he gets hold of it” but, if I ever thought a man was safe, I thought Moore was; a good swimmer and three life-buoys close to him. I regret that some of those aloft who saw him get hold of line, did not rush out and cut it; but, even then, I doubt its being done in time. Poor fellow, he must have lost his head, and then thrown his life away. He could not have struck anything in falling, for he fell from Cathead. He leaves a Mother and sister, the former he has supported for the last 12 years.

Hercules lowered boat quickly.

He belonged to my quarters, and was a very good, steady man. His is the first, and I trust most sincerely that it may be the last death from drowning or by accident, that occurs in my watch. I always nourished the hope of being clear, but, I thank God that I did everything, I could do and can’t blame myself in the slightest. I could not have done anything more, but, still none the less it has made a deep impression on me and left a deep regret that I should have been so unfortunate.

This is now the fourth death by accidents that has happened in this ship since commissioning – an unfortunate ship.

11 March – Wednesday

This afternoon we sighted Ushant and at 5 pm Hercules and Sultan parted company for Portsmouth, remainder of fleet going on to Plymouth.

Monday last after firing we started for our 24 hrs Full speed trial, knocking 9 knots out of the old ship. The fleet gave us 2 hours start, but at 7 pm they all passed us going about 2.5 knots an hour faster. They were all doing about the same. Our speed soon fell to 8 knots on account of a North’ly wind which has been blowing ever since, in a more or less degree, accompanied with hail, and at times our speed fell to 7 knots.

We rejoined fleet last night, they being just visible (their topmasts) from the mast head. Last night I had first watch and it was not a very pleasant one, what with hail pelting one like bullets and blowing blacks into one’s eyes.

Thursday. In afternoon watch today was 39 degrees a good drop for us, who came from balmy and sunny Lisbon, ther. 30 degrees higher, we feel it rather.

ARRIVE PLYMOUTH

14 March – Saturday

Thursday last, at about 8 am we sighted the Eddystone Lt House. and soon made out the hills clearly round Plymouth, wreathed in snowy white. We sped on, four ships in number, the Sultan and Hercules having left us the preceding evening for Portsmouth and at 12 (noon) we cast anchor in the Sound; found steam pinnace laying out there, Daddy having sent papers etc, to all the ships.

Heard of all being well from Couch and of Edward having had fever and been wounded.

After mooring, which took us about 2½ hours, I made tracks for the shore in steam pinnace, and on fetching the house I found family in, both my Parents looking very well as also Meta and the others. Slept at home that night and did not go off until the next day, at noon, although Captain had given me leave for several days, but, being one Lieut short, it would have been rather hard on the other fellows.

That evening the tugs came out and took us up harbour, taking us to a buoy off Lower Dock Yd. This forenoon, we hauled alongside Jetty, where Rattlesnake had been. Comdr Digby came on board and paid a visit, smoked a cigar with him. Last night Capt. G. came up and spent the evening with us, and later on in the evening, I got them all down into my room and smoked a cigar, Capt. G. joining me. Heard from Rob today, who sent me home by no means bad verses, composed by himself.

18 days leave to each watch. Hurrah! take mine from 3rd April second lot.

Troops expected in England daily, Edward’s courage spoken of by all his regiment.

15 March – Sunday

Spent on board, but the Comdr remaining on board in the evening enabled me to go to evening service, and hear Mr Beal preach a capital sermon. Regret to say my dear Mother has been far from well. Heard of Captain Sullivan and our man exchanging, and am confoundedly sorry.

17 March – Tuesday

Went into Plymouth taking the family with me and leaving them at the Royal Hotel to take their dancing lessons, and went off myself to Club, meeting Sir H.K. there and at 3.30 I went to Hotel again and walked up into the Ball Room and found some 120 people of all ages ranged round sitting down, having just finished a dance. Of course I was the observed of everyone. I made for Madame Bradley and asked to be allowed to stay, but, was refused leave and so had to depart like a dog with tail between my legs, amidst a suppressed titter.

A large dinner party at our house, in honour of Heneage’s bride, Sir Harry and Lady Keppel, Major and Mrs Maitland, Mr and Mrs Shoreton, Captains Herbert and Graham, Miss Kirk, Capt. and Mrs Heneage and some four of us, 16 in all. Mrs H seems a very nice person, something similar to Heneage.

19 March – Thursday

Raining all day, spent it at home. Hardy McHardy lunched with us, and Capt. and Mrs G. and Comdr Oxley and Digby dined in evening.

Have taken after W.R. in hand and have got the combings all removed etc.

Fault kindly told me of his holding an IOU of Russ’s, so I suppose I must pay it up.

21 March – Saturday

Tamar came in from Portsmouth, having landed the 23rd, who received a grand ovation from the Portsmouthians. Capt. Grabbe paid us a visit and gave all the news he could about Ned, and Commodore Commerell, also came in and had 5 o’c. tea. Walked out to Mannamead with my Father. Commodore Hewett wants me to go out to Active, but unless he hoists his broad pennant as 1st class Commodore and takes me as Flag-lieut I should not go, for, I’ve Lord Gilford and Charley Fellowes under my lee.

My dear Mother has not been well for this week, I regret to say.

23 March – Monday

Walked out to N.H. and saw Smith who comes out tomorrow, had a smoke with him and then paid Mrs Minter a visit. Heard by telegram of the Sarmatian’s arrival, and Grogan sent a telegram round that all was well etc. etc.

Russie wrote very good news about Grandfather saying, he was requested to return to Nova-Scotia by the people at Halifax, and told many other things. Wrote many letters and heard of Annie being again enceinte. At this rate, she won’t be able to complain of a small family. Francie floured my pillow and bed most shamefully.

25 March – Wednesday

Nothing much to note. Edward threw Meta into a state of fever and all of us into a state of doubt, by wording his letter in a very ambiguous manner, leaving us all in a state of expectation of seeing him burst on our sight.

Had a large 5 o’c party yesterday afternoon, about 18 people congregating together. Miss Kirk remaining to spend the evening, both my Parents dining out. Misses Hares paid my ship a visit.

27 March – Friday

Dined last night at the Kirks, meeting Mr and Mrs Bayes there, found it rather dull, and slow. Raining all day, went out with my Father and Capt. Herbert to pay a visit to the Corvette Augusta. Went all over her, she is a lean gutted thing and would not stand much knocking about; steams very fast. 14 knots all the way from Cowes, she is of French build.

28 March – Saturday

Oxley gave a lunch to Mrs Johnson and the two Miss xxx, rather pretty girls. Carrow and I lunched and Mrs J. wants me to call, which I shall do. Received a very nice letter from Annie, who has asked me to come up and pay a visit to Liverpool, but I’m afraid that the state of my funds won’t allow me to do so.

31 March – Tuesday

Last Sunday at morning service we had quite a little scene, for in the middle of the sermon, a yell was heard and it proved to be the organist taken in an epileptic fit, who had to be carried out.

Young Wyatt Rawson dined with me last Saturday and told me all about the Ashantee Expedition. The slug is still in his leg and his ankle is weak, he has an acting vacancy in the Himalaya and I hope it will be confirmed, for he is a very nice young fellow.

3 April – Good Friday

Sat up until late last night, 1.30, waiting for Russell who did not turn up, but this morning he surprised me, by walking into my room. He has grown quite a young man, and is greatly altered, but, I think he is settling down, at least, I hope and pray he is, but, he has given my dear Father (not) much peace of mind, for we were all getting uncommonly anxious about the lad, as Forbes was going about with him.

I’m stuck on board, but Russie lunches with me at 1 o’c.

7 April – Tuesday

Sunday morning Edward showed up, just arrived from Portsmouth, looking fairly well considering everything, of course Meta was most delighted at seeing him and is most happy now. I think they will be married October next, at least, I hope so. Father, Russie and I walked out to the Naval Hospital together and Francie with us.

Yesterday, Russie and I left the house at 8 am. with our bicycles and crossed over to Torpoint but we had hardly got 2 miles out, than mine broke down, so Russ and I went into the village and hired a small market trap and pony and drove out Liskeard way, 10 miles. Having a feed of Devonshire Cream and milk, we got home again at 3 pm giving 1/– an hour for the trap. Saw Russie off for town by the 7.40 train.

8 April – Wednesday

Went down to Keyham with my Father, Admiral Goldsmith accompanying us. Went all over the London fitting out for Zanzibar. Took my first dancing lesson in the hornpipe this morning, from one of the Tortoise’s men. Wrote to Russie who has neither sent my Mother’s or my money down, but I hope it may come all right tomorrow. Had tea with Mrs Chambers.

My Lords sail tonight for this place, and are going to make another visit in August next, this only being a flying one. Prince of W. coming in June to stay a few days with Admiral Sir H Keppel.

Mr Bates, MP for Plymouth paid my Father a long visit in his office this forenoon, bringing a long list in his hand of fellows who had run to him with their grievances. Most of them, however, Mr Moore and my Father soon proved to be false and Sir Wm King-Hall gave Mr Bates some very good advice and a small piece of his mind, and Mr B. who came in quite the Conservative MP and rather inclined to be bumptious, had the good sense to go out rather more sensibly.

It is quite clear, to me, that these fellows, have bound themselves by promises to many things, they will never be able to perform and that many of our noble electors will not be pleased.

9 April – Thursday

Heard from Russ this morning. He did not send the cheque as he had promised to my Mother. I’m afraid that everything is not altogether as it should be, more especially from what I heard from Adm. H. I received a telegram from him this evening, however I shall go up on Saturday to town to see how things stand.

The Enchantress yacht came in this afternoon, but Admiralty did not do anything in Dock Yard. Spoke to Admiral Stewart. Mr McHardy, Inspector of Stores to Navy, staying with us, dined this evening at House, and we smoked together afterwards in Edward’s room.

AFTER VISIT TO LONDON

18 April – Saturday

Have allowed my journal to drop somewhat behind since being in town, partly through my time being so occupied and partly through my anxiety about Russ.

On Friday April 10th not having heard from Russ, although he had promised to send the money on Tuesday etc, I started off suddenly by the 9.40 train and got up to town at 6.0, meeting Russie at the station, who explained to me that he had the money in the Bank and had just telegraphed the amount down.

Well that evening I made him sit down and tell me all his debts and found they amounted to about £100 and odd, including two pre dated cheques, one falling due April 20th and the other May 1st. The former for £30, the latter for £25 and he owed money to Admiral Stewart £12 and had just sent £5 to Mrs Stepney.

I got him to tell me about himself and found he had been going the way, that hundreds of other foolish young fellows go, following women and making presents and taking hansoms etc, and thinking he was cutting a fine figure in town. I asked him about Forbes, and he told me he had only met him incidentally two or three times.

We paid our G.Parents a visit that evening.

11 April – Saturday. I found myself with a bad cold in the groin and so having managed to toddle out to G.Mother F., I laid on the sofa the whole day, Russie coming out and spending it with us.

12 April – Sunday. Feeling much better I got up and went to St James, hearing Mr Palmer preach, can’t say I was enamoured with him. Russ coming out, we dined with our G.Parents and in the afternoon walking in, called upon the Codringtons and found them very agreeable, had 5 o’c tea with them and afterwards went to Mr Fleming’s Church, close to, and managed to get places. His curate preached a most eloquent sermon; probably one of Mr Fleming’s.

13 April – Monday. Feeling slightly unwell, I went to the Cavendish Club and remained in all day, meeting at Russ’s lodgings and got my gear taking it to Mrs Stepney’s, at whose house I was going to remain for a few days. Russ and I dined there.

14 April – Tuesday. I got up at 4 am and walked into Paddington Station to meet Edward, of course just missing him by five minutes, so I came back and slept until 10.30.

Went in and found Russ had not been into the Bank, on account of diarrhoea. That evening he feeling better we went to Covent Garden in the 5/– places and heard Il Barbiere di Siviglia, Marimon singing and Cotogni, she struck a very high note in the song she sang at her music lesson. Figaro wanted life. A very large house and I should say, next to San Carlos at Naples.

Met Williams of Hercules.

On Wednesday made a round of visits, Bothamleys, Lily Gilbard, who is staying with the Patons, G.ma; and ran down to Greenwich, and saw Adm. and Lady Key, who mistook me for a married man, Bowden-Smith, Usborne and Lindsay.

Came back to town and had an interview with Forbes, who told me a lot of lies, that at the time I did not know. Found Russ had not been to the Bank – dined at Mrs Stepney’s.

On Thursday I went into the Bank to see Russ and found to my surprise that he was still absent. I rushed back to the Club and found him there. He said Mr Davidson had excused him but, I couldn’t help thinking something was wrong.

Father brought Meta up to town, to stay with Mrs Stepney’s, so I had to clear out and take a room at 89 Jermyn Street, Russ’s lodgings.

Russ and I chased Father and got him at the Admiralty. After some little time and business had been done, we all three dined at the Cavendish Club, Father standing and we had a very good dinner indeed. Calling at Mrs S. and spending half-an-hour, wound up the evening.

Yesterday we breakfasted together here and had a very good one 5/– for three. Russ went off to his bank. Father and I did some business and going to the Admiralty, where I made the acquaintance of my future chief (D.V.) Lord Gilford.

We then went to Russ’s Bank and Father seeing Russ told him he wanted to make Mr D.’s acquaintance. Russ stayed away some time, but the end of it was there was a terrible row and Father did not see Mr D.

Russ not having got on well at Bank – Mr D. – told him, he would have to tell Father, so Father is going to wait a month. It must be heart-breaking work to his Parents – and I pray most devoutly that he may not go wrong and cause them shame – he is so very easy led – is kind and warm-hearted, very thoughtless and very untruthful. I never saw my beloved Father so cut up – and it is very very sad to think that my two loving, hard-working Parents should be worried and have so much anxiety – especially in the autumn of their age.

From the Bank Father and I went to Mr Tapling, a very rich merchant (carpet) about Miss Fox – marrying. He spoke very sensibly about it and very kind and very true, as both of us thought. He told us his history, a most remarkable one of his rising from nothing, until how he sells £600,000 of goods yearly. Not costing his Father a penny after the age of 16 and beginning with a porter and clerk – and attributes his success in life to his having been a teetotaller for three years in the beginning of his life, and thereby getting a command over himself.

He spoke at a meeting and a Mrs Stow took notice of him – he waited until 36 and then married getting a very good wife, of whom I saw and who produced a very nice boy and girl to whom I had the honour of being introduced.

He told us he had over 300 in his establishment – and he always gave milk from his own cows to anyone that would have it instead of beer. That he fed everyone in the building and they always could take the jug of milk instead of beer and told us some other most interesting accounts of his career.

He said – I make it a rule of my life – never to tell an untruth and never to stoop beneath me, to mix with people above me – for, he said “Anyone can stoop down and pick up nothing” – and he gave us an account of how he was tried once. In the ‘66 crash he took Bills etc to Gurney – and the latter said “Are they safe?” He said, “I answered, though with a sinking of heart – for my everything depended on them – I can’t say.” Since that time – G and he have been close friends.

He gave us all luncheon and made us promise to come down to his place at Dulwich – and Russ coming in – he asked him to dinner Sunday week. He gave us all the above in a very manly, modest way – he is surely one of our Princes that keep up the honour of the Country and uphold its greatness.

Russ and I saw Father off at 5 o’c for Plymouth and then Russ confided to me that he had been going about with Forbes very much and that Forbes had led him into everything, so, I’ve appointed an interview with him for today. Went to Davies with Russ – who is going to hold the cheques over until May 1st. I feel very anxious about Russ.

22 April – Wednesday

Continue my journal on about Russ, Forbes and myself. Well on Saturday the 18th as Russ and I were dining together at the Cavendish Club – Mr Forbes sent his name in, I went out and immediately accused him of sharping my brother at billiards and told him what a thundering liar and scoundrel he was.

He owned to having told me a lie – and so I gave it to him hot for ten minutes, just informing him, that his conduct had been watched and he was forbidden the Club by the Proprietor, in the name of the Committee and that he knowing Russ was easily led, took advantage of it to lead him into every vice and lived on him – and that, I would stop his acquaintance at any cost whatever, and having made Russie face him, I told him to leave the Club. As it was in a public place, I don’t think he much liked it.

On Sunday 19th Russ and I made tracks for Chester Square to hear Mr Fleming. We got into the door and found a tremendous squash and found ourselves pushing against Meta and Ned, eventually we all got places. Russ and I sitting in the Reading Desk, after the prayers were finished. We lunched at Mrs Stepney’s and then Meta and I walked across the Park and paying Lily and the Patons a visit fetched out to our G.Parents. Russ joining us from Admiral Stewart’s.

We had high tea there and then we all three steered for Mr Fleming’s again, and again had very much trouble in getting places. Mr Fleming both forenoon and afternoon preached most eloquently on Dr Livingstone’s death.

Then dropping Meta at Mrs S. – Russ and I went to our lodgings – and at 11 pm were troubled by Mr Forbes again. He began making excuses – I cut him short and showed him the door.

On Monday. I started by 11.45 and travelling down with Denison, whom I met at station with Ld. F. Cecil. I got down at 6 pm and found both my beloved Parents very anxious and looking worn about Russ. We had a long talk about him – and I prepared them in a way for his debts it must be most heart breaking and it tells on them, I’m sure – for, I can see it. I cheered them up a bit, by telling them of Russie’s complete break from Forbes.

Tuesday, yesterday. I went about with Father to Keyham and otherwise we had a small dinner party Monday night – Capts. Graham, Grant, Palliser and Douglas with their wives.

This forenoon I went with my Father and paid L’Amérique a visit, a large French steamer 450 feet long, and abandoned at sea in a gale, because she had some 9 or 10 feet of water in her through a valve being left open below.

Found the salvors fighting aboard of her – went over and found everything in a most pitiable state – trunks broke open, ladies gear lying about and cards etc. canaries etc, dinner on table half eaten – and everything denoting what a hurry she was left in. No water had ever got near the saloon (a very fine one) and it appears most ridiculous after her Captain, describing the way in which he lost sight of her – her coming into Plymouth Sound all right – she never could have had much water in her.

Alongside of her was a small English steamer which had suffered most severely in same storm. One wave which had broken over her, had swept the deck house clean away, the unfortunate 2nd mate inside and two men went overboard, but were washed back again by the reflux of the wave. The life boat was washed completely away and most extraordinary to relate, left her stem stern post hanging at the davits – and also washed away the wheel, leaving the spokes in the hand of helmsmen. She had a narrow escape, for her lee fires were put out – but, her Captain a fine English seaman said, “He only wished he had fallen in with the French derelict and he would have done his best to bring her in.” My private opinion is – “The French were never made for sailors, they want a little English breeding first.”

This afternoon I accompanied my Mother first to Mrs Kirk’s and then to the Miss Ordes (50 and 60) to 5 o’c tea – and now, having just finished, my cigar, I’m going to step into a hot bath and from there to my Bed.

AFTER VISIT TO LONDON

3 May – Sunday

Another long break in my journal occurring through my having made a second trip up to town.

Leaving Home Friday – April 24th to see about Russ – I found him seedy from biliousness, and that Meta applying strong blisters behind his ears, had made them very sore.

So, the next day (Saturday April 25th) I went into the city and had a long talk with Mr Davidson, Manager of Oriental Bank, who told me Russell would not apply himself to his work and that he very nearly had given him warning, but Mr D. said he had noticed a slight improvement during the last week.

That afternoon Russ and I hunted about for boarding houses, but found them all too expensive. I paid Davey the Chemist a visit. He holds Russell’s two checks for £65 – and it is very fortunate I did, for he intended presenting them May 1st and I suppose Russ would have got the sack. We both spent our evening with our G.Parents.

The following day, Meta, Mrs Stepney, Edward, Russ and I went to hear Mr Fleming. Russ and I went out to Kilburn and saw our two cousins, Ida and Florence Forman, both very pretty girls – and then coming back to our G.Parents had tea there, meeting Edward and Meta. G.Father gave me a splendid pair of binoculars.

Next day (Monday) R. went to the Bank and I went into the Park for stroll and met Ld. Wm Phipps, lunching with him at N & M Club; also, met Bouverie Clark. Then hunted about for lodging and got some very good ones just behind Warwick Square, – and in the afternoon Russ engaged them from May 5th.

Dined at the Cavendish. Went out to Notting Hill and having given a Bill to Davey, I got the two checks – and so, I’m now bound by a Promissory note for £70 due 25th October.

However on going down Tuesday, I found my Parents much easier with regard to Russ, as he wrote and told them all his debts, except of course mine. I received a letter from Forbes, which I did not deign to look at, but destroyed unopened considering whom it came from. I feel anxious for Russ, for he will still persist in mixing himself up with all sorts of people – being made a handle of for their purposes; in fiddling about with exchanges of mines and companies etc, and I feel certain that he will go and make a mess of it, unless he sticks to his Bank work.

Wednesday, 29th April. Our little party came off with great success, about 250 people came, or rather over that number and we had a most lovely day – so everything was in our favour, and it ought to have gone off well. Everyone was pleased – the ship looked very pretty, partly owing to Comdr’s. exertions and to flowers provided by Lady Hall – who also came, together with my dear Father. Francie and Miss Fox – the Kirks they all thoroughly enjoyed themselves very much. Spent my last day at Home.

Friday, the day before yesterday – Old Sir H Keppel came in to 5 o’c tea and spun some of his yarns of his younger days etc. The Kirks came in and spent the evening – and at 10 pm bade my beloved Mother good-bye – and went out to ship in steam pinnace accompanied by my Father, also bringing some Mids. out.

We left yesterday morning at 5 am. and when outside made sail, and I had the pleasure yesterday of putting the old craft about, twice. She went round like a top, sails very fairly. I suppose owing to a clean bottom she went round in 3 min 45 sec with Hands. This afternoon, just after setting Port Stud. a shift of wind took me flat aback, so, I had to brace a-box, and in Stud. so, now we are still some 30 miles off Portland, with a head wind.

DEPART PLYMOUTH

ARRIVE PORTLAND

5 May – Tuesday

Have just dined with Captain who gave a very nice little dinner. We came in yesterday and of course had to weigh again and get boats out although we sail tomorrow afternoon.

Heard from my Father who enclosed letter from Col. Barton, saying James owed £600 and telling about his madness. I sincerely hope the authorities will give Elsie something and keep poor James in detention.

Feel very disgusted with regard to my boys, for I cannot instruct them in the way I wish, owing to Commander. Had a talk to Captain about getting up Fifes and Drums and also some singing amongst the men.

DEPART PORTLAND

7 May – Thursday

The Downs. We left Portland yesterday evening and coming along 6 knots passed Brighton this morning, Beachy Head, and Dungeness, at which latter place it being low water we saw the masts of the Northfleet. We got off Dover at 6 pm and plainly saw the chalk cliff of Calais – and at 7 pm. we came to single anchor off Deal. It was a very pretty sight coming up Channel to see the beautiful clippers, some running and some beating, doing the latter so well, that our beating in men-of-war is like sailing sideways like a crab – comparatively speaking.

It struck me that in the event of war, an enterprising enemy would do an immense amount of damage to all our south Coast Towns. I should think the Devastation must have surprised some of our good folk on the sea, for she certainly does look a most extraordinary thing dashing thro’ the water.

Am busily engaged getting a Drum and Fife Band up under the Captain’s patronage.

ARRIVE PORT OF LONDON

8 May – Friday

Steamed up the Thames 8 knots and anchored off Thames Haven, a place some 7 miles below Gravesend – and where all cattle are landed, or, at least a great proportion, of what London requires. Special trains have been put on, running nearly every hour to Fenchurch Street.

Pilot we had on board gave me information about their numbers etc. There being 124 Pilots at Deal and Dover, 38 of them, always cruising off Dungeness in 3 cutters, which sail round and round, a regular roster being kept whilst the others are always ready. At times the whole 124 have been afloat. I asked him what he would probably get for taking this ship from Downs to Thames Haven. He said £10 or £15. Our pilot is the one that generally brings royal yacht over from Ostend and he then gets about £10 – £15.

We anchored about 5.0 and did not get down below until about 7.30; mooring and getting boat out etc.

11 May – Monday

The day before yesterday, I ran up to town, and went to Russell’s Bank, but found he had not shown up. Had a talk with Mr Davidson, who said he strongly advised Russ to leave Bank, for he did not think he was cut out for it.

Getting out to G.Mother’s, I found my Mother, Meta, Edward and Russ there and I soon learnt that Mrs Stepney had been the cause of a terrible row, at one time breaking the match off between Meta and Edward. She spoke to dear Meta, just on the point of going away, in a most insulting manner, quite losing her temper. Meta, I’m very thankful to say behaved most nobly in answering Mrs S. Father has now allowed Meta £100 a year, for two years and £50 afterwards until the first annuity falls in. It is very hard on my Father – and Meta and Edward feel it as much as anyone. Mrs S. evidently thinks Meta is not good enough match for Edward and only allowed the engagement to steady E. but, I know as to wealth – Meta might have made much better ones, and of course gentlemen, as much as Edward. I’m very glad indeed the thing is settled now. It has quite brought Mrs S. out in her true light.

Russell in hot water again with himself, so I hope it will do him good.

Sunday (yesterday) went to Fleming’s and in the evening after evening service, Meta, Edward and I went into the vestry and made the acquaintance of Mr Fleming and his curate Mr Mann, going afterwards to St James’ Square, and having tea there.

This morning I came down by 7.20 train.

12 May – Tuesday

The Bothamleys (6) Meta and Edward came down from town and had tea (The Codringtons telegraphing down to say they were unable to come). After tea we went all over the Devastation.

Started them off by the 6 o’c train – Henry B. staying to dinner.

13 May – Wednesday

The Czar has arrived, but not at Gravesend, to the astonishment of the Mayor and Corporation of Gravesend who had their address all ready, laid on return for His Majesty. The reason being that in going out of Flushing, the yacht got ashore and so the tide would not suit at Gravesend by the time he could have got over to the Thames, so he put into Dover, being some six hours behind time.

The good people who came down to Thames Haven, on the strength of the large placards, announcing the fact of the Fleet going to salute etc. etc. were also somewhat put out.

At 11 o’c we got the news about Czar going into Dover and had orders to get up steam full speed and unmoor with despatch. We all had our fires lit and Resistance, her mooring swivel in, when everything was negatived and left in status quo – for we should not have got away in time to get over the shoals at Mouth of Thames. I’m glad to say none of my friends came.

15 May – Friday

Ran up to town Wednesday night, and out to Notting Hill, found all out there and that Mrs S. had been to make up with my Lady Mother.

The next day I transacted a lot of business at the Co-Operative and at Music Publishers and paid the Royal Academy a visit and saw there the most charmingly lovely girl I’ve ever seen in my life – everyone turned to admire her – and I really after seeing her, had no more relish for the canvas pictures. She was not more than 15, but, so pretty and naive.

Took 5 o’c tea with the Bs. and stayed the evening with my G.Parents and Meta. Going away about 11 o’c bidding Mother good-bye, who goes down to Devonport tomorrow and to Meta who goes down to Lady Gilford today.

Slept at the Arundel last night, and got up at 6 o’c thinking it was 8 o’c – so, to amuse myself I strummed the Faust Waltz on a piano I found, rousing up an old fellow who poked his head into the room with a night cap on and told me sarcastically how pleasant it was to be woke up with music etc. Going on in the same strain – however, I would not see it in the way he wanted me to and began apologising for my poor playing etc. So, I don’t think I got the worst of it after all.

I came down by the 9.20 – first borrowing 10/– from Oxley to pay my way, having run so close.

21 May – Thursday

Sunday last after reading articles of War and Prayers, Carrow and I went up to town I went to Warwick Street, but found Russ was not there, so went on to my G.Parents and found he had just gone on to Mr Morrison – so, I followed up and arriving there, made the acquaintance of the Morrisons. Russ and I had tea there and afterwards went on to Fleming’s and heard Mr Mann preach. I was rather disappointed – we then returned and had supper – after which Russ and I returned Home.

Next morning, I breakfasted in Russ’s Rooms, rousing him up with much difficulty, in consequence of the medicine he is taking and also from his not getting any sleep during the night.

The forenoon, I engaged doing business, and seeing the Czar pass. Near Temple Bar entered into conversation with some roughs about the ‘Black Prince’, a superintendent of Police, whom they seem to admire very much, and whilst waiting, throwing pennies into the roads, to the delight of the boys and disgust of the ‘Bobbys’.

At 1 o’c His Majesty went by in state and I did not think his reception was over cordial.

Took Russ out to Notting Hill, and then dressing at my rooms went off to Covent Garden, and heard Don Giovanni, the cast being composed by Adelina Patti, Marimon, D’Angeri, Ms. Faure and Ciampi. Patti sang beautifully and looked bewitchingly. I was very pleased and gratified, but not comfortable, for the House was full from top to bottom and we were packed like herrings in the 10/6d. places.

Yesterday I rejoined the ship from leave, finding everything much as usual. This forenoon we unmoored and at 2 pm on seeing the Russian Yachts coming down we weighed, having orders to slip, if anything went wrong. We formed in two lines and the Derjava passed, hoisting the red Ensign and firing guns, after we had given a Royal Salute. The Emperor could not be seen very distinctly. They were all observing the men on the Sultan’s decks standing up and waving.

At 6 pm we parted from the Yacht, and anchored off the Alexandra Channel, there not being water enough to go through. We nearly rubbed sides against the Sultan, which ship shifted billet, as did the Agincourt.

DEPART PORT of LONDON

ARRIVE PORTLAND

25 May – Monday

Next morning at 3 am the fleet weighed and coasting down that day through the Downs, passing Brighton. The following morning anchored in Portland Roads. I went ashore yesterday to Portland bicycling to Weymouth and back.

27 May – Wednesday

Yesterday, landed with a party of 150 men and filled 146 tons of coal at the coaling jetty – working two jetties only in two spells. 50 men can work at one jetty and ought to put in 14 tons an hour into the lighter.

This forenoon, I started out to Dorchester on a bicycle and got there about 1 o’c, getting back to Weymouth about 4 o’c.

Received a very sad letter about Russ from my Mother. I can’t make out what he is up to, ordering gold watch and any amount of gear, all the time saying such fair things to his Parents’ faces. He is breaking their hearts, of that I’m quite sure. I think, I shall have to throw up my ship, it will be very hurtful to my interests and I hardly know how to live on my half pay in London, for I can’t and would not receive any help, after Russell’s drawing the way he is and has been doing. It is wonderful how one member of a family can make everyone else miserable and unhappy.

I trust Father will not give up thinking of getting the Channel Fleet. Wrote to Mother and Russell.

30 May – Saturday

Went out to Dorchester on bicycle and dined at Farmers Ordinary making a most substantial dinner for 2/6d. On returning aboard, relieved Lowe of the Guard and boarded a cutter yacht – Mr Milner-Gibson and his son being on board – smoked a cigarette and asked them to Church tomorrow.

Heard from Father, both yesterday and today and also from Mother, who sent me Russell’s letter. It makes me get quite savage, his continual demand on them for money. Yesterday we had Ram-Ho [?] – Northumberland took advantage of being Chief to make any amount of signals etc.

2 June – Tuesday

Yesterday our men landed in small arm companies, together with those of the Starboard Division and performed some evolutions marching past, etc. Admiral Hornby saying my company marched past second best out of eight. Last night we drank to the health of Lord Howe and his companions in arms, who 80 years ago, defeated a French fleet of 26 sail of the line, capturing seven.

This morning, I asked Commander about going back to my watch, telling him, I did not feel justified in going on under present arrangements, what with the difficulty of getting men and the drills etc. However, he would not hear of my giving it up and pitched into Wright for even being willing to take them on. I don’t feel satisfied, and but that I leave the ship very shortly, I should have a regular row.

6 June – Saturday

Had Ram-Ho yesterday and man and arm boats last Wednesday – some forty boats sailing down to Weymouth and firing blank cartridges. My boat was the first to get up masts and fire.

This afternoon, I went ashore and spoke to the Portland Steam Co. about running a boat to Plymouth and back, when the men get their 48 hrs. next Monday. I got them to do it, if they could get 200 at 6/– a head the double voyage.

Heard from Home several times this week, all bearing on Russell. They have just paid £25 to Frazer for him. Could get no explanations from Russ about the watch. Am very anxious to see my Parents, as I fear, all this worry and anxiety is telling on them.

11 June – Thursday

I was most successful in my endeavours in getting a boat to run to Plymouth, on Monday last. The old Commodore started at 5 pm with 160 of us and had a pleasant voyage round, getting there at 3 o’c. in the morning. The men’s wives having been waiting there, several hours raised a shout and on getting alongside the jetty such a rushing, embracing, kissing went on as defied description. I very nearly went into the Melée myself on the chance of picking up a stray kiss or so.

I had to walk from Millbay to home and turned in at 3.30 and out at 8.20. On going down to Breakfast found Edward there, he having come also the same night, but earlier. Had a long talk about Russ and found out by mere chance that he had been borrowing money from Edward. I had much difficulty in making Edward take it back. Mother giving me the money.

Went about the dockyard and off to the Gorgon with my Father. The latter ship’s superstructure was all split about, girders broken across by the force of explosion – the guns in the turret having been trained close to the superstructure, shot passing eight feet off the other turret. The ship was built by Palmer & Co. on the Jarrow and not over well put together, the thin plates of the superstructure, not meeting each other exactly and being filled up with pieces of iron, which were all started out by the explosion. The legs of the turret were also nearly all gone.

Next morning (yesterday) started from Home in the Commodore taking my Father’s barge sails with me (sliding gunter) to sail lifeboat cutter with. Got round about 6 pm just in time for dinner – wrote many letters – and received some. Two invitations to dinner, one from Oldfield, the other from Admiral Hornby.

The regatta is to come off the end of this month and then we go out for a cruise of two months, up the West Coast of England, Scotland and round by the Orkneys and East Coast to Spithead.

13 June – Saturday

Dined with Capt. Oldfield – Royal Alfred night before last. Such a slow dinner, I almost fell asleep at table.

Had a slight row about my Fife & Drum Band last night. In the evening they came marching round the upper deck, playing. The Commander got in a great rage and asked me if I thought it was Christmas Day – and that he would see me about it in the morning.

In the evening I suppose he had thought over it and found I had not committed such a crime – for as a sort of peace offering he asked me to come and sail the ladies into Weymouth, which I did, enjoying a very pleasant sail indeed.

Off to the ship at 11 o’c – got the Boats in this evening, ready for going out on Monday.

Admiral Campbell’s death is in the Papers, making Ommanney Willes an Admiral. I hear Admiral Randolph is to haul his flag down.

19 June – Friday

Have not gone out of the ship until this afternoon, with the exception of dining with Admiral Hornby, Wednesday last. A large party of eighteen, four ladies amongst them. I, having a pain in my lower regions, had not a very pleasant evening.

Am very busy getting my cutter rigged for the Race for Admiral’s Cup.

We went outside firing last Monday, taking Sowerbys out. They both asked me to pay them a visit at Luton, of course.

We made a mess of our mooring and had to shift billet taking up the good part of another day.

Had a good deal of boarding to do lately – the Brigs and numerous yachts, coming in. Made the acquaintance of His Grace, The Duke of Bedford, in one.

24 June – Wednesday

Weighed yesterday at 4 am and went out firing (prize) got it all over by noon and steamed in again. We had a slight contretemps letting the anchor, for in walking back, it took charge and the cat fall slashed along the deck and partly unwove – the anchor fetched the bottom.

On coming in again, I got a letter from Mother, enclosing a copy of one of Russell’s to Uncle James asking most pressingly for a loan of £130. Uncle J most rightly sent it down Home and thus my little loan to Russ. has come out. I heard from my Father this morning. Russell is going the right way to work to break his parents’ hearts. It is very hard on the rest of the family. I hardly know what to do. I certainly cannot afford to go on half-pay and go up to London with £70 Promissory Bill due in three months and my own debts and Meta’s Marriage. Wrote to Russell and Home.

28 June – Sunday

I’m glad to say Captain Fowler has taken the management of Russell’s affairs into his hand and I hope he will be able to do something – for now his former lodging keeper is not paid – and Russell has been staying away from his Bank for 10 days and more. Find my boat with the sliding gunter does not answer at all – so I’m afraid my chance of the Cup has flown.

Dined the night before last – farewell dinner to Mr and Mrs Sowerby – with Captain, small dinner of eight.

After the Ss. had gone, all the Monday yarns came out.

Our programme has come out and rattling good one too.

29 June – Monday

I had a long letter from my Father this afternoon and everything has come as I feared. Russell out of the Bank and his lodgings not known. Both my Parents gone up to town, half heart-broken. Capt. F. looking for Russell.

1 July – Wednesday

Our first day’s regatta over, sailing day, a splendid breeze. We took second places in four races.

Russell at home – his debts amount to something like £200, having borrowed from everyone and written to everyone for the loan of it. What he is going to do, I don’t know.

4 July – Saturday

Dined this evening with Luckraft on board Triumph and made the acquaintance of Fredericks the Mid. who won the cup – for we sailed for it yesterday. A splendid breeze, some 40 boats started and the crashing etc that went on at starting was something terrific – and not a little cursing went on – I got foul of two boats, knocked bumpkin out of one and slued another one second. It was a glorious breeze and we had to go round a course four times – making altogether about 16 miles. The Cutters in Service rig, all came to the fore, and steam pinnaces, barges etc. nowhere.

The Triumph’s cutter got round first followed by my boat second and I was pushing her close when my mizzen sheet and block went to ‘Jericho’ and made me third; and reeving a new rope for a single mizzen sheet, I could never set the sail properly afterwards and dropped to be fourth and was finishing the last round when I got aground and that put me fifth, coming in that number. Our Launch ought to have been higher up than sixth, for she sailed before the wind, two feet to a cutter’s one – by Comdr. Missed stays four or five times and lost his temper, etc.

If I had known I was going to sail boat in service rig, and had had something to run with, I should have been close to the cup; but not having had an opportunity of trying her and nothing for running I was all adrift.

Thursday, the pulling day, we had a large party on board to lunch and dancing this afternoon. Went ashore with Carrow and played croquet with the Miss Sparkes, very pretty girls.

5 July – Sunday

Walked out to Radipole with Mr Dermott, rather a pretty walk. McAlpine came on board and had a smoke with me and we had a talk over old times.

6 July – Monday

Spent today 11/– in telegrams. Received one this morning, asking me if I cared to go to Elk with Comdr Harris. I wired home and got advice not to, so, as Carrow was offered it, I refused. He has accepted and has written a letter to Tarleton.

Tuesday. The fleet tripped their Anchor and stood to the Southwards, getting clear of the breakwater by 4 am. and at 6 making sail.

The two flag ships steamed on ahead and put into Plymouth, Agincourt rejoining us off the Eddystone, having got her two life-boats (Cork), and Northumberland remaining in; Admiral Hancock being required for Court Martial on Admiral Randolph.

Wind falling light we furled sails and steamed along 5 knots, fine clear summer weather.

Next day, we passed a wreck, she was not worth look at, being completely gutted and broken up. Had some sail drill in which we distinguished ourselves by getting extra drill.

DEPART PORTLAND

ARRIVE MILFORD HAVEN

Thursday morning we arrived at Milford Haven and moored. Found a letter from home awaiting me. Very puzzled to know what to do with Russie, as even if he was able, he could not enter Irish constabulary until 21 years of age, he being only 20 at present.

Yesterday, (Friday) I landed and walked up to New Milford, crossed Ferry and from Pembroke Dock, walked out to Pembroke and back. Admired the Castle very much. The ruins are of large extent and look very pretty and moderately perfect. Maitland and I went over Fury and Shannon building here. Walked back to Old Milford with Ferris; Mathias and Maitland being too lazy.

This afternoon I expect Col and Mrs Ommanney and party on board to afternoon tea, old Malta acquaintances of mine, whom I met up at the Band.

13 July – Monday

Had a large tea party aboard Saturday last, including a lot of Carrow’s friends and yesterday afternoon I went out with Carrow to a Mr Robertson Hall and had dinner and spent a very pleasant evening. Drove us back, and we got on board 11 pm. Entrusted two bottles of rum to boatmen to take out to xxx. I wonder if they ever reached. Got underway this forenoon, fine weather.

DEPART MILFORD HAVEN

ARRIVE LIVERPOOL

14 July – Tuesday

This forenoon, we crossed the Bar of the Mersey and with a most lovely day, and a light fair breeze with all sail set, we steamed up the Mersey, full speed for us (9 knots) accompanied by about a dozen small steamers, crammed full of people, cheering and waving, bands playing. The sides of the river with thousands of spectators, from New Brighton up to Birkenhead one side, and from Bootle up to Liverpool on the other. I should think some 80,000 or 90,000 people at least had turned out to see the fleet go by.

I never before saw such a scene of life; the river full of small steamers and docks full of craft; men on top-glt. yards cheering, from the docks – and no doubt it must have been a pretty sight.

Just as we got near the anchorage, we furled sails, and the sails, being well dry and light breeze, men also working extremely smartly, disappeared; and it was as pretty a sight, as any landsmen would wish to see. Ships crowded with white canvasses, suddenly, and to them without warning, appearing without a stitch set.

We made a running moor, with a 5 knot tide against us, and consequently, Devastation had to shift berth. We made a very slack moor and Triumph lost an anchor and 14 shackles of cable.

Our Anchors had scarcely dropped when invitations came from Mayor and Messrs Lairds to Banquets and garden parties.

I went ashore and went out to Tom Hannay’s and found him at home. Just returned from North Berwick, whence he had taken Annie. As he was very tired and suffering from a bad eye, I stayed but a short time and promised to dine with him tomorrow evening and bring a couple of fellows out with me.

15 July – Wednesday

Took the Mids over the docks and went over a couple of the White Star Line.

One of their Captains or Agents, told me, as an instance of how fast they did work sometimes, that at 4 am one of their 450 feet fellows has come into the river and been taken into dock. Had 2,000 tons of cargo taken out and 2,000 put in, 1300 tons of coal shoved into her, and some 1200 emigrants and started off for America 36 hours after her having arrived in Mersey.

They are very well fitted up. We then went over a large grain store and saw how they stowed it and transhipped from ship to store and to different parts of store, by means of moving leather bands. Next we visited a Yankee ship, most beautifully clean, she had a very ingenious method of easing her cable out – skipper very civil. We then all went into the town and I stood ices, cake and beer all round to my pocket’s disgust.

At 6.30 pm having shifted at the Alexandria Hotel, I met Carrow and Maclean at Princes landing stage and we went out by train to Princes Park, and dined at Tom Hannay’s, meeting his brother Anthony and a young fellow called Irvine and another fellow called Ferguson. We had a most jolly bachelors’ dinner, everything as near perfection as it could be – cigars splendid, I can vouch for, and liquor superb as Carrow and Maclean can swear.

We came off by 12 o’c steamer, a steamer that the Dock Board have most kindly run all day, between the fleet and Princes Pier. Hear some 1800 people have visited us.

16 July – Thursday

About 3 pm the good people of Liverpool began to flock on board and soon our decks were crowded, cabins and W.R. filled. I lit mine up so that everything might be exposed to public view and got the Band up. Lord Wm Phipps came on board and brought Mrs Moon, daughter-in-law of the Chairman of L & NW Railway, a most charming person – took her into the skipper’s cabin and gave her tea – Skipper coming in.

We had some odd people down below, some regular swell ladies came and sang out their b –– brandy and Soda and made old M-- kiss them – and very pretty one of them was too. Some rather nice looking girls from Southport came down and had tea with us in W. Room.

17 July – Friday

Maclean, Carrow and myself went ashore and met Tom Hannay at his Office. He told us all about cotton broking and showed us the Cotton Exchange. While we were in there he sold 100 bales – each bale being represented by a small sample about a foot square. A bale of cotton is worth £15 so as he gets ½ per cent on all sold, he makes £7.10. on every 100 bales sold.

After lunching at the Palatine Club with Tom H. we went down to the Princes landing stage and got into a Coach and four-in-hand and on its being filled by fellows from the fleet, drove off for Gateshead, the residence of the Mayor (Mr Walker) about 6 miles outside the town.

As we got outside Liverpool the country became very pretty. We arrived at the Mayor’s at 4 pm and after alighting were ushered by a very swell person, one of the Corporation people, into the Mayor and Mayoress’s presence – the latter a very stout party enveloped in a very loud vulgar dress. After making our bow we filed into the gardens, which were very pretty and commanded a lovely view, Knowsley being about 3 miles off on the opposite side of valley.

In the gardens were all sorts of games going on – Badminton, croquet, etc – and a large Marquee rigged up and floor laid down for dancing, (waxed too much we found). Soon after arrival, everything commenced, something going on the whole time – Police Band playing the best, 30 strong. When it ceased playing volunteer Band went on then a string band and then singers, who turned up all over the grounds, when and where least expected.

I hear some 1800 ‘dead marines’ were found on the ground. We danced up to 11 o’clock most of the time with the same girl – and the Liverpool girls, dance the trois temps very nicely – most charmingly indeed.

We got back to ship about 1 o’c in morning, beguiling the way back by singing, I giving a few F’cle ditties.

18 July – Saturday

This afternoon we had 4,500 people on board – and entertained them with a hornpipe and Redwood performing on the slack iron and at last we set the people dancing all over the place, the band playing from 3 till 6 pm.

Had the Miss Irvines off to tea and Tom Hannay stayed to dinner with me and sleeps on board for the night.

We got a letter in deep mourning from Annie, Eugene, and Polly thanking the officers of Resistance for the kindness shewn to them. These were the three Southport girls that were on board Thursday last and were so gay, old Knight threwing them into Lord Ashley’s cot.

19 July – Sunday

After dinner, Tom H., Carrow and I went ashore and proceeded to Church, where a lot of difficult singing was going on and one could not join in. We then walked through Sefton and Princes Park to Mr Irvine’s (Sen.) house and had a good solid dinner there, Maclean joining us. After dinner we went out on the grass and laid down smoking and talking until 7 o’c, missing Kirk to my disappointment, for I was anxious to go.

After tea we bade good-bye to the Irvines, amidst much fun and with two introductions to Aberdeen in our pocket, and went and had a most recherché supper at Tom’s house. After which, Maclean and Carrow went off and I went to bed, after going over the House, which is nicely fitted up and belongs to him. Got a letter from Annie.

DEPART LIVERPOOL

20 July – Monday

Began unmooring at 10 am and did not finish until 4 pm, our cables being so dreadfully foul. The fleet left at 2 pm amidst a perfect ovation from people ashore. We slipped out at 4 and anchored just onside the bar – there not being enough water for us, except at high tide.

ARRIVE BELFAST

21 July – Tuesday

This morning at 2 am we weighed anchor and put her under steam, going about 10 knots, and arrived at Belfast 4 pm, a fine large Lough and town standing at the head of the Bay. Carrickfergus on Northern Bank and Bangor on the Southern. The country looks very green and fresh and uncommonly pretty withal.

Moored ship – this cruise is regularly a ‘Parson and Marine Officers’ Cruise – for we the executive officers get a goodly amount of mooring, unmooring, etc.

22 July – Wednesday

A fair amount of people visit Agincourt and Devastation but nothing like the number that visited us at Liverpool. During our stay there we got as many as 16,000.

23 July – Thursday

Went up to Belfast this afternoon, landing at Carrickfergus at one o’clock, Lowe going with me. We went about the town doing a little shopping and then tried to get a billiard table, but found them all occupied by the Squireens (a certain class of Irish gentlemen who live on a small allowance allowed by their Father, and their wits allowed by nature, spending most of their time profitably playing billiards).

After waiting a considerable time we managed to get a table and then old Lowe, mistaking a respectable looking squireen for the billiard marker, set me off in a most astonishing manner. The fellow’s air of surprise and disgust was too much for me – and I had the bad taste not to gain a command over myself for some time. At last we began playing, and Lowe licked my head off.

Another squireen afforded us some amusement being somewhat elevated (it being the right time for being so) began making some silly questions and because I did not join his fun – he accused me in a most melodramatic manner of trying to sit on him.

We then proceeded to the Botanic Gardens, some two miles out, very well kept and a large conservatory full of fine fuchsias and other most extraordinary looking plants with very hard Latin names. The 31st Band was playing and discoursing some sweet music.

We then trammed into the town and shaped a course for the Mechanics Institute, a large temperance meeting being held there. We found ourselves rather late but, on showing at the door were led on the stage, a very ‘ikey’ place – some 70 or 80 people and head swells sitting there. Speeches and songs were the order of the day and after one of the songs, I, to my surprise heard my name being mentioned – and as everyone seemed to be waiting – I hopped up and rushed to the table and spake a few words, being to the point and not much of it. My maiden speech was a success, as far as it was. We came back by the last train.

24 July – Friday

This afternoon we unmoored and got all ready for sea. The Mayor gave a Banquet. Lord Ashley made a most amusing speech plastering everyone down, Mayor included, in a most wonderful manner.

DEPART BELFAST

ARRIVE GLASGOW

25 July – Saturday

This morning at 2.30 am we turned hands up and at 3 am we were underweigh steaming 8 knots for Glasgow. At 9 am we were opposite Ailsa Craig, a large high rocky island, the sides being very steep and in pinnacles, was crowded with thousands of birds. I might almost say millions and be inside the mark – the side of the rock was quite white with birds and guano. A musket was fired from the Trinity yacht and clouds of birds flew about.

We steamed up the Clyde during the afternoon and it was a very pretty and lovely scene, the river being full of yachts of all sizes and pleasure boats and the scenery along both sides was only what the Clyde can give. I shall not attempt to describe it, for I should only make a mess of it and not do it justice. As usual we turned the hands up half-an-hour before time and at 4 pm we came to and moored off Greenock, Resistance being lowest down the river. After having put the swivel on – we got a signal made to us, to shift into bearing Monday morning – being 3 degrees at the most out.

26 July – Sunday

Went ashore this afternoon and attended Kirk, and then out for a walk to Gourock and back to Club and off to ship to dinner. Just received invitation to go out to Iona tomorrow with Admiral, from Bruce, but have to decline it being my day on.

27 July – Monday

Received invitation from Mr Reid, Glen Huntly, to a Ball for this evening, but have had to refuse – getting all ready for coaling tomorrow.

28 July – Tuesday

Went up to Glasgow and trammed out to Belhaven Terrace, found no one at home, left a card for Charlie. Glasgow is much larger than I thought it was, having some fine streets. Buchanan Street to me, appearing its Regent Street. The city is full of tramways running all over the place.

Came down from Dunlop Street Station and on getting on board found a letter awaiting me telling me Admiral Hornby had nominated Lake and I to join shore committee, to represent the fleet, the people ashore having given £53 and two Cups to be pulled for on Saturday next.

At 9 pm a lot of us went to the Ball at the Town Hall, which has a fine floor for dancing and galleries running round it. We soon picked up partners, at least I did and we kept the dancing up to 3 & 4 am. I danced with the Grieves, old acquaintances of mine, and I sat in the gallery in the same place that I did six years ago with Annie by my side. Now she is married and mother of two children (or nearly so).

Asked any amount of people on board to visit the ship, one young girl in particular, with whom I struck up a very close friendship. There were any amount of girls and not many p.g.’s, which (as Lord Ashley said) considering they pay 1½ guineas to go and be cut out by the Naval men, is not to be surprised at.

Wrote and asked Charlie Forman to pay me a visit.

29 July – Wednesday

This afternoon some people payed us a visit, amongst them being the Harveys, whom Douglas Hannay had sent down in the Merle, his 10 tonner, which has won 12 out of 13 first prizes this year. The Neva yacht, 60 tonner, here too. Had her owner and his wife with other ladies come on board. We got the band up and had a little dancing and then about 4 pm Mr & Mrs Holms-Kerr would persist in taking four of us in their yacht and we started to beat down to Largs, 15 miles down the Clyde.

I, not having heard from Charlie, concluded my letter had gone astray, but, asked Maclean to look out for him, in case by any chance he came.

We had a most delicious sail down in the Neva, a beautiful breeze in the clipper yacht of the season, going along so well and so easily. It was most enjoyable.

We got down to Largs about 6 pm and dined on board at 6.30 then landed and Holms-Kerr drove us all out to Mr Fyfe of Fairlie, the great yacht builder. He built the Neva and charged £38 to £40 a ton. Holms-Kerr told me she cost him about £3000 – all found. We had tea at his house, a large newly built house. He had a fine collection of prizes on his sideboard. We all turned in about 10 pm the host being half seas over, which considering the numerous wee draps we kept taking all day and night, was not surprising.

30 July – Thursday

After a good bath and breakfast this morning we bade good-bye to our hosts and hostess and were driven into Greenock, some 14 miles of very pretty driving and got on board at 9.30 am.

I found my cousin had come down the previous evening, with his carpet bag and Thring took him down to my cabin instead of to the W.R. Charlie, poor fellow, finding no one to meet him went off again by next train. He had telegraphed to me, but, his telegram had been delayed at the Post Office and just missed me by a quarter of an hour. I was dreadfully disgusted of course and this forenoon bundled up to Glasgow to my Uncle’s Office 160 Hope Street and saw him. Found there was no chance of seeing Charlie, as he was down at Erskine, doing some civil engineering. Uncle James was very anxious for me to go over to North Berwick with him tomorrow, and would stand the expense – so, I said, I’d do my best.

Met Lowe at the Station and by dint of looking out for his watches etc., I got him to go to the Banquet to be given tomorrow at the Greenock Town Hall to 500 of our men. Find my name in company with many others, had gone into the Admiral’s, for putting name down for Lord Provost’s Banquet at Glasgow and not going. Arranged with Lake about regatta as the Admiral nominated Lake and I for committee.

31 July – Friday

Went up to Glasgow in the forenoon, and paid Douglas Hannay a visit at his Father’s Office. He introduced me to his parents. We cruised about together and met the Holms-Kerr family up in town.

At 2 pm Uncle James and I started for North Berwick and got to Edinburgh 3.30 pm, having passed through some very pretty country in the Lothian, very well cultivated indeed. Had a flying view of Linlithgow Palace and Holyrood Palace from the train, the former in ruins. Edinburgh, judging from half-an-hour’s acquaintance, seemed a very pretty town. The old town had very tall houses of 7 and 8 stories in it – and had altogether a very old fashioned look about it.

After lunch we started for North Berwick a watering place some way along the coast. We found Aunt Isabel, Annie and Florence there. Annie won a pair of gloves from Tom on my coming. On getting to their house we found the rest of the family collected and after mutual greeting etc. we had tea, a game of golf and turned in.

1 August – Saturday

A bathe in the sea, which was rather cold gave one a relish for a good breakfast. We smoked and played a game of golf. Ida and Robbie against Tom and me, the former being beaten most thoroughly. After lunch I had to say goodbye and go off by 2 o’c train to Greenock having enjoyed my short visit very much indeed. Came down in the train with Morton and got on board at 8 pm.

2 August – Sunday

Had some people off to church, Lord Selkirk and family. Came on to blow rather hard, so that the signal was made after boats were in, not to unmoor as was first intended.

DEPART GLASGOW

ARRIVE LOUGH FOYLE

3 August – Monday

At 3 am this morning we were all turned up to unmoor ship and at 6 am the first Division steamed out of Clyde – 2nd Division following later on, and going to Lough Swilly.

We began at 8 knots, under steam and sail, but off Ailsa Craig, we shortened sail and had to face a regular snorter, steaming full speed against it.

We got into Lough Foyle 7 pm and let go our B.B, but with way we had on and strong tide running in, we had soon veered our B.B. chain to a clinch, having previously let go S.B. at the 12th shackle. The starboard chain had just been brought to, and three links hove in, when Devastation tried to cross our bows and came athwart our chain, carrying it away at 15th shackle and sending our Capstan flying round, knocking the men all over.

We had only seven men hors de combat and most fortunate it was, only three links had been hove in, otherwise we should have had a large butcher’s bill after a lot of gear had been smashed. I think she came across our ram. Lowe who was forward said she did. At any rate one of her plates has bulged out at the top an inch and a half. Eventually after scraping along she got clear and left us the pleasant operation of picking up the B.B. and 15 shackles. We let go our sheet and moored with sheet and S.B.

In consequence of a signal, I went on board the flag-ship and explained everything to the Admiral.

4 August – Tuesday

Carrow, Donald, Denny, and two others we had left behind at Greenock made their excuses to Monsieur le Capitaine.

Divers been underrunning chain all day. Whiled away the afternoon in clearing Hawse of an elbow.

5 August – Wednesday

This morning having underrun the cable up to our bow, the diver passed a small rope under the bight of cable and then we hauled fish fall round by it, and then hauled 8½ inch hawser round by the fish fall and by bringing the hawser to the capstan hove the bight of cable right up to bow. Shackled stream on to bight and then hove it in.

This afternoon we hove in the rest of the chain and the eight shackles lying in the sand, actually held the ship against wind and tide and we had great difficulty hauling it through sand. After getting all the chain in, we cleared hawse, the SB and sheet having an elbow in them. Then weighed the sheet anchor, moored ship with two Bowers and put the swivel on.

After supper transporting the sheet anchor by the Fore and Main Yard, casing it from cathead by Hawser and placing it by Fore Stay and Burton from Fore topmast heads. The cable was unbent but, to my mind I thought it was bringing too much strain on the Yards and would rather (myself) use in addition a Fish Davit, taking the Fish to the balancing mark and assisting with the Yards.

Keeping Lowe’s first watch, he having gone to the Ball at Derry. Lively going up at 2 pm and returning at 4 am. So at 12 tonight, I shall have had my belly-full of work, having commenced at 6.30 am this morning. Had the pleasure of 1st cornet (?) joining today.

6 August – Thursday

Went for a stroll this afternoon. The natives of Moville seem to be charmingly simple in their manner of living; the men bathing stark naked and the women sitting on the grass enjoying the sight.

7 August – Friday

Captain gave a bonnet hop this afternoon which was a most successful one – lots of girls off – had great fun with one girl in my cabin. I told her she had a most charming brogue so, she immediately put it on twice as strong.

Heard from Home. Mrs Stepney suggesting Meta’s engagement had better be broke off. This after everything had been arranged and a two years’ engagement. She is a most curious woman and poor Edward is completely in her power. I like Edward very much indeed, but think it would have been much better if the match had been broken off when Meta was sent up to Scotland. She could have married sooner and be very comfortably off by this time.

Monarch joined.

8 August – Saturday

Just a line last night saying match was not broken off. I wrote and said it must go on under any circumstances. I’ve come to the conclusion Mrs Stepney is a very selfish woman.

DEPART LOUGH FOYLE

9 August – Sunday

Got underway last night, with a strong head wind against us, together with a good sea, that sent us rolling about a good deal and gave me precious little sleep, principally from gear falling down. My unfortunate telescope came down on my head and in my vexation of spirit, I hurled it away and it cannot be found now. This forenoon after getting under the Lee of the Islands of Coll and Tiree, we got into smooth water. Passed close to Staffa, which contains Fingal’s Cave, and is some 15 miles from Loch na Keal. At 2.30 furled sails and came to, in Loch na Keal about 4 pm. A large landlocked harbour, high mountains running all round. All moor land – several houses at the top of the Loch, otherwise very sparsely inhabited. We are anchored very close to the Northern shore.

ARRIVE WESTERN ISLES

10 August – Monday

Raining all day. Everyone that could get away went out with a rod, some going to Loch Ba and the river that runs into it, catching trout there. Others landing on South shore opposite the ship and doing very well there.

11 August – Tuesday

After divisions and mustering of bags to find playing cards, Lowe and I started with rods, taking young Bower with us. We struck across country to Loch and soon got wet through on the moor land. Halted at 12 and had lunch and then at 1 pm after wading across some biggish streams got to the Loch, but caught nothing, so we went to a small stream near and landed a few small trout and at 3 pm started home and got back at 5 pm having had a most delicious ramble across the heather getting capital exercise. I never felt so thoroughly tired all over, and felt that I had taken good exercise and gained a good appetite.

12 August – Slaughter Day

The Admiral went out deer-stalking with Capt. Price who rents the shooting about here – good rabbit shooting.

13 August – Thursday

Got under way at 8 am and steamed out in calms, past Staffa, Rum and Eigg Island, the latter noted for being the place where the remnants of a clan fled to from their enemies and concealed themselves in a cave. The others discovering them, blocked entrance up with brushwood and setting fire to it, quietly suffocated everyone inside.

Had sail drill in the evening.

DEPART WESTERN ISLES

ARRIVE STORNAWAY

14 August – Friday

1My 24th birthday and thankful should I be, at being spared to see it, and may I be graciously spared to see another. We anchored at Stornaway about 1 pm, Triumph going inside the harbour, remainder anchoring outside.

Sir James Matheson’s palace (for by no other name can it be called) stands out large and bold above the small town. Lady Matheson gives a Ball this evening.

Got three letters, a long one from my Mother saying everything was settled now about the marriage. Mrs S. keeping to her word. I’m very glad it is all right. My other was from Miss C. of Derry – a highly scented letter. I think she must be one of 100 Manchester girls that the Mayoress of Liverpool telegraphed for and “that did not mind squeezing.”

15 August – Saturday

Ball last night was very mixed, the choice being so small. Sir James Matheson who made his money out in China, is a small king in the island, the whole of Lewis belonging to him. He has spent a great deal of money on the place and educates a large number of girls, sending them over to Edinburgh. The inside of his house is magnificently fitted up. Maitland and I went out fishing and went to Loch Alcock, a little way out. About 40 other fellows going to the Creed. We caught a lot of trout in the Loch and would have caught many more but for the tremendous wind blowing. The Lewis Hotel is the best place to put up in.

16 August – Sunday

Spent on board. It blowing hard from the SW, we got steam up, but at 4 pm. the wind suddenly shifted round to the NW and fell light. This is the second time it has changed so suddenly. The roadstead is quite open to SW and sheltered from other winds. A little sea tumbles in with SW, but soon goes down again.

17 August – Monday

A large budget of letters from Home. Great excitement about the Prince down at Plymouth. Lady M gives another Ball this evening. Being sent up with a letter to Admiral Hornby who stays at the Castle, I had a good look at the house and I must say it is most magnificently fitted up, and worthy of a king living in it.

DEPART STORNAWAY

18 August – Tuesday

Amidst a squall of wind and rain the Enchantress came in and it being just within seven bells, I had to go and board her. Found Mr Hunt, Adm. Sir W Tarleton, Mr Egerton and Mr Stanhope MP, for South Riding, on board. Had a yarn with Capt. Harris of Enchantress. He says they are having a very jovial cruise round the coast – nominally to visit the Naval Reserve – really, enjoying themselves yachting fishing and shooting etc. He says Ward Hunt is a very genial, jovial fellow, tremendous height and big paunch.

At 5 pm we got underweigh and made sail, shaping course for Orkneys.

ARRIVE SCAPA FLOW

19 August – Wednesday

Had signals made four times at me last night about being too far astern. The Monarch would keep astern and part of the time I was sailing abreast of her, Topsails on Cap. and yards braced bys [?]. The last time I saw the signal flashing I made sure it was for being too far ahead and stopped the engines and it rather took me aback being told the purport of the signal.

We got through the Pentland Firth about noon, passing the Skerries at 12.30 a good tide running and sea on. The springs run rate of 10½ knots and neaps at 6 knots. Tried to make out John O’Groats House on the Mainland.

We anchored at 5 pm. in a squall of wind and rain. The harbour is large and well sheltered, its only drawback being a shoal in the middle which is buoyed. Kirkwall stands at the head of harbour and looks a small town of about 3 or 4000 people. Country round is low hilly country.

Got a budget of birthday letters from all at home and heard from Miss Blandy at Madeira who told me she had sent my Mother home some chairs. Wrote a lot of letters.

20 August – Thursday

Landed with Commander and went over the Cathedral, a large building and very old, dating from 1198. It is built in form of a cross and the choir inside has been screened off and forms a Chapel for Presbyterian form of worship. Went up to the top of tower and had a very fair view of the town and surrounding country.

After coming out of Cathedral paid visits to the Earl’s Palace and Bishop’s Palace, the former being in moderately good preservation. In the banqueting hall on the second floor, with its fine large Gothic window, Sir Walter Scott lays the scene of Jack Bunce and the Pirate meeting. Below are cells, corridors, stairs and kitchen, the fireplace being of huge size, big enough to roast an ox whole, with ease. To the right of the Palace, stands the Bishop’s Palace, consisting for the most of a large round tower, having set into its outer side a small figure of his Worship.

Invested heavily in Shetland gear – it being cheap, good and very serviceable – good socks 1/3d a pair and shawls varying from 5/– to the thin, 6 guinea ones. The 7/6 and 8/– ones are the most serviceable. Ball and Lowe, Kirkwall are the best mercers.

DEPART SCAPA FLOW

21 August – Friday

Russell’s 20th birthday and I hope and trust he may see his 21st birthday. Left Kirkwall at 11 am this forenoon and passed Wick at 8 pm. It was quite a sight to see the hundreds of fishing boats all coming out of Wick. I never before in my life saw so many together all in a lump.

22 August – Saturday

Lowe is going to leave the ship and quite right too. I think he leaves in consequence of the Demon having insulted him so much and so often, and I know it is as much as I could do to remain my year. The Captain tried very hard to get him to stay.

It only strengthens me in my former opinion of Comdr Oxley, that he is insincere, trickish and not very particular about telling the truth – and I don’t think fit to be Commander. The men work for him because they fear him, but they won’t for the other officers, for he insults his officers, continually, before the men and brings them into contempt. He has no sense of honour, or, dignity himself and thinks no one else has either and takes the very lowest estimate of everyone, judging by himself.

We got into a fog this morning and lost the fleet for about a couple of hours, through a mistake in the gun signals. At 10 am picked fleet up again in Moray Firth and at 11 am entered Cromarty Firth keeping close over to the Cromarty side on account of a bank running out. Cromarty is a small town and is at entrance of Firth. The fleet anchored in single line opposite Invergordon, on the opposite shore some six miles up Invergordon is a small place, and has a railway station being on the great Northern Line.

Received letters from Home and Edward.

ARRIVE CROMARTY FIRTH

23 August – Sunday

Went ashore in the afternoon and spent the time wandering about Mr MacLeod’s park, which he has thrown open to the Fleet. Very well wooded and kept. Big house, being built.

24 August – Monday

This evening I got a telegram from my Father at 8 pm saying my G. Father Forman had died and my Mother was up in London. He died at 8 am in the morning. Poor old man, I’d just sent off, two hours before, some chocolate for his use. He was a kind, honourable, and Christian man – and a very tender Father.

I was in great hope of seeing much of him and cheering him up, when at Greenwich – and now he is gone to our Saviour for his faith was great in Jesus – and my poor dear Mother, I feel very much for her – and wish much I could be with her, to cheer and comfort her – for a more dutiful daughter never lived – and her love was great for her Parent. I trust most sincerely and pray that she may bear up under this great trial, for I can feel how much I should suffer myself if I were to lose either of my loving Parents. Wrote to my Mother – to London.

25 August – Tuesday

Heard from my Father this afternoon, who told me about my G. Father’s death and of my poor Mother’s anxiety and great wish to get up in time to see him alive, but, it was not to be – for he died at 8 am and she did not leave Plymouth until 9 am.

Francie’s fourteenth birthday. Went ashore and spent the afternoon by myself in MacLeod’s park. Wrote to my Mother.

26 August – Wednesday

Court Marital going on. I being Officer of the Court.

27 August – Thursday

Heard from Derry and from Liverpool. Landed at 1.30 pm and met Mr Mackenzie of Flowerburn with wife and ladies just going off to Triumph. Introduced myself to him – as it was raining and I was wet through, I thought I might as well take a walk, so I took a five mile walk out to Flowerburn and back leaving my card there. Met all Mackenzie’s party on going off again.

Refused Admiral Hancock’s invitation to dinner. Denison came and spent the evening with me. No letter from my Mother yet.

28 August – Friday

Left Invergordon at 11 am, having a lot of ladies on board, and steamed round to Inverness Firth, anchoring at 3 pm. We had to shift berth, which took us until 6 pm.

Much disgusted at not getting letters. Flagship not having sent up for them.

29 August – Saturday

Left ship at 9 am and went up to Inverness with Carrow in the Netley, Gunboat, meeting an old acquaintance Hammick in charge of her. Knocked about the town the forenoon, going out to the cricket field to see the match – our side being beaten. Eden of the 42nd was playing against us and making a good score. Met Denison at the Club. Came down from Inverness in steam launch and found Flowerburn on board – dined with me and went ashore at 11 pm.

30 August – Sunday

Landed immediately after Service and walked up to Flowerburn. Found several other fellows there and made both the Mrs Mackenzies’ acquaintance. They are both very charming, and the younger is very nice looking and has lots of fun in her. We had a long talk about Meta, her new cousin as she styles her. Came off to the ship at 11 pm in steam launch giving Jack Luckraft a passage to the Triumph.

31 August – Monday

Commander returned on board, having got rid of his brother – a clergyman. When Oxley got his brother’s telegram saying he was at Inverness – his fraternal remark was, “Just like the d....d parsons, gadding about, and letting their work sweat.”

1 September – Tuesday

Landed by the market boat, taking young Harford with me, and getting a lift part of the way. We fetched up to Flowerburn at 8.30 just in time for breakfast – only the old Mrs Mackenzie being there, the remainder up at Inverness.

After breakfast we started on the Moors and tried to get some grouse, but could not get a shot at any. They were lying so close and flying so wild. Hit a hare. Beat about the fields and woods getting a good many rabbits, but not seeing any partridges, I managed to knock a woodcock over and in going through some thick cover found the hare, I had shot in the forenoon, it having run at least a quarter of a mile after being shot.

Came back to dinner, found the people had not come back from Inverness. At last at 10 pm we heard the carriage wheels and were soon greeting them all . (Partridge shooting commences).

2 September – Wednesday

Sent young Harford off to the ship early this morning. Went out rabbit shooting this forenoon and at 1 pm drove down with Mr and Mrs Mackenzie and Harry Smith a young doctor, to go on board. Found it was blowing rather hard. After waiting some time – a cutter came in and as soon as some other ladies had joined our party, I shoved off under close reefed sails, the ladies being determined to come off. After an hour and a half’s beat, fetched the ship, having thrown the spray about a good deal. The ladies were very plucky and behaved very well. Had tea and band on board and a little dancing. Landed them all at 7 pm – still blowing.

DEPART CROMARTY FIRTH

3 September – Thursday

Find two of our midshipmen have been getting into trouble – Maclean and Thring. One went on leave for the day and went over to Invergordon to see a fascinating young lady there. Maclean hearing of this, on being sent ashore on duty – said “He’d be d...d before he was cut out” both of them being rivals in the graces of this young damsel. He also went over to Invergordon – and neither of them turned up until just as we were weighing this afternoon, and of course now they are under arrest.

Blowing very hard. Sultan in unmooring lost an anchor, and our steam launch got ashore last night top of high water at Fort George. I went in cutter at 3.30 am and found her all right. The soldier officers of 99th had been very civil to our fellows, some 8 or 9 from the fleet being weather-bound. Flowerburn just managed to get off to the ship in time before we weighed – in Triumph’s steam pinnace.

After getting outside the Firth did not feel wind much and towards the evening it quite dropped.

ARRIVE ABERDEEN

4 September – Friday

Whilst at General Quarters this forenoon, Couch fell overboard and was very smartly picked up by 1st cutter.

Flowerburn dined with Captain last night. I was unable to, on account of having first watch.

Anchored off Aberdeen at 2 pm. The entrance to the Dee is very narrow and a great many wrecks take place annually on the breakwater.

5 September – Saturday

Flowerburn and I went ashore by the 10 o’c boat and tried to get over Hogarth’s preserved meat establishment, but found it shut in consequence of Duke of Edinburgh’s visit to the city.

We then went to the Club and saw His Royal Highness go by and a shabby turn out it was too. As mean a thing as I’ve ever seen, like a cabstand on the march having their ticketed numbers hung outside and I did not think he was well received. There was precious little cheering. After laying the foundation stone, he went to lunch at the Lord Provost and the rest of the town council etc were regaled with wine and cake at the Town Hall.

The Ball last night given by the Royal Northern Club was very successful, there being a very large number of pretty girls there, more than at Inverness.

Lowe and I went on one of these fishing smacks that carry a great big lug, seven reefs in them. Boats are a great beam and decked in with big hatches in the centre. They shoot their nets out (some 60 fms. long each) weighted with stones at the bottom and cork along the top and their boats ride by one corner of it, with a cable. The herrings run into the nets and are caught in the meshes by their gills.

DEPART ABERDEEN

6 September – Sunday

Weighed this evening for St Andrew’s Bay.

ARRIVE ST ANDREWS

7 September – Monday

Anchored in St Andrews Bay at 11 am this forenoon, in the middle of some thousands of jelly and starfish. I never saw so many the whole time I’ve been to sea.

8 September – Tuesday

Went ashore this forenoon and called on Mrs Findlay, portmanteau in hand made her acquaintance and that of her two daughters. Mrs F. is an invalid, having sprained her knee some time ago, and her knee has got stiff from bandages. She has been laid up now nine months and is a most charming person, very sweet tempered.

Went out sight seeing with the two girls all over the old Cathedral, a fine large ruin. Up the tower of Regulus and over the Castle and saw the window from which Archbishop Beaton beheld the Martyrdom of Wishart and others. Had a look at the links.

In the afternoon took the two girls and several other ladies off to the ship. We got the band up and had some dancing. Donald and Rickard also bringing off some girls.

In the evening, against my wish I went to the Ball taking the two Miss Findlays and I must say I never danced with a better dancer than the eldest Miss Findlay. It was most delicious dancing a slow even trois temps. We did not get away until 4 am and on coming home found Mrs F. waiting up to see us, we yarned until 5 am.

9 September – Wednesday

Went off to the ship this forenoon. On getting up this morning and after having breakfast I went up to Donald’s room to rouse him up. On getting near I heard groans and opening the door saw Donald in bed, his left leg stuck up in the air, groans of cramp coming from Donald. I rushed to his leg and rubbed it hard and at last drove the cramp away.

In the afternoon, we had a good many girls on board. The usual Tea, Band and dancing went on the whole afternoon. Although Barometer had fallen most tremendously, it did not deter Carrow, Donald, Maclean and myself from going ashore. Comdr tried to frighten us from going by saying we should not get a boat and should miss the ship. We went and had a look at the Bishop’s Mace in College and then had high tea at the Findlays and afterwards many girls coming in, we had singing music and dancing – leaving the place at 11 pm. The girls and all of us singing Auld Lang Syne together in the Hall before leaving. The Promises of Letter Writing and Photograph exchanging were numerous.

DEPART ST ANDREWS

10 September – Thursday

Fleet got under way this morning. I had morning watch. Turned out at 3.15 to shorten in, just three quarters of an hour before signal was made. Lord Ashley came up and spent half the watch on the bridge and told some amusing stories. One was about a Marine officer.

A Lady, that had once been a ‘Lady of Fortune’ had altered her mode of life and married a respectable person – well – they happened to be staying at a country house, where the lady met a former acquaintance and friend in the shape of a Marine officer. She sought for a private interview and then she said, “Now, if you will not say anything about me, my former mode of life and that I lived with you etc, for I’m getting on very well now – I’ll promise faithfully not to tell that you are a Marine Officer.”

So whenever our Marines get bumptious we just tell them this yarn.

Came on to blow off Leith, where we anchored, the Fleet going on to Queensferry some seven miles further up.

ARRIVE EDINBURGH

11 September – Friday

Heard from my Father that he had written for me to leave ship at Sunderland.

Got in fifty tons of coal and then weighed and joined the Fleet off Queensferry, mooring beyond Dalmeny Park off Inch Garvi.

Captain’s received my discharge to Half pay on arrival at Sunderland. Strong appointed to Audacious.

12 September – Saturday

Went up to Edinburgh and on to North Berwick. To my dismay finding my friends had gone over to Glasgow so there was nothing for it but to come back to Edinburgh.

Meeting McDermott and Rickard went over Holyrood Palace and the Castle, going in the former, all over Darnley’s and Queen Mary’s apartments. Saw many curious old relics, piece of Mary’s blanket etc. and saw the blood stains of Rizzio. The rooms are small, it was very interesting going over the apartments that those stirring scenes were enacted in.

The Chapel Royal, adjacent to the Palace, is unroofed and in ruins. It must have been very handsome and of good size – numerous old tombstones and stone coffins lying about forming the floor. We next walked up through old Edinboro’ Canongate, past the Tolbooth Prison, and had a look at the Castle and got a magnificent view of the city, and to my mind there is not the slightest doubt about its being the most beautiful city in the world. Calton Hill stands out well with its ruins, and the green cutting (with Sir Walter Scott’s monument on it) running between the old and new town sets the city off immensely.

We had a look at Mons Meg an old gun of great calibre made of iron bars hooped round – cast in 1400 something and has seen much service. Also Queen Margaret’s Chapel in the Castle is of very ancient structure. Came down to the ship to dinner. Turned the Band Management over to Blum. Heard from Derry.

13 September – Sunday

Boarded the Favourite which came in during the afternoon.

Afterwards took a stroll in Dalmeny Park, Lord Rosebery’s, with Lowe. Coming off to dinner.

DEPART EDINBURGH

14 September – Monday

Started from Queensferry this forenoon and passed the Bass Rock about 2 pm which was covered with birds – then slipped by Tantallon Castle in ruins. It used to be the state prison of Scotland.

Wrote to Derry.

ARRIVE SUNDERLAND

15 September – Tuesday

Anchored this forenoon off Sunderland 11 cables off the breakwater. Went ashore and made enquiries about trains etc. The town is a regular manufacturing town, very smoky etc. The streets are moderately good, the principal street High Street being very long and hilly. The river runs through the centre of the town and is spanned by a very high and good bridge – large ships easily pass underneath.

The town was decorated very much with flags and wherever the eye went it met notices and advertisements about the Channel Fleet, medals having been even struck off to commemorate their visit. Went over the Ball Room a large wooden building erected for the occasion. It is very well got up and of immense size, the names of all the Naval Heroes being placed round and hundreds of plants and flowers everywhere, with muslin curtains festooned and hung round and a great many large mirrors – altogether it is worthy of Sunderland.

The 2nd Life Guards Band has been especially kept for the occasion, £250 for the first week and on the postponement of our coming, kept on for another week at £180. The Sunderland Club adjoins the Ball Room, and is a very good Club.

Had a long letter from Lily who is in Belgium.

16 September – Wednesday

Had a letter and photos from St Andrews.

Went ashore with Warleigh and after settling about luggage etc..

We went to the Monkwearmouth Colliery and meeting Needham there and another fellow we went down the Pit, by getting into some trucks, six of them in a cage – in three tiers, two on top of two etc. At a signal off we went down 600 yards in depth, at a tremendous rate, the air rushing into our ears, rather oppressive.

Finally we alighted and got out of our trucks and found ourselves standing in a large hollow, lit up with lamps and engines round one, men blasting the rock, boys shouting, horses tramping about and trucks rushing about. We all carried small oil lamps – the upper part being of gauze – and the gauze is so fine that although gas may get into the lamp, the flame cannot escape through the gauze. We got into some empty trucks, or, barrows as they are called, and were whizzed along some twelve miles an hour along a cutting, that had been made through the seam of coal – 7 ft. 6 in. high and 15 feet wide, laid with a couple of rails. The barrows are drawn along by means of a wire rope, which is attached to a monstrous big drum, worked by machinery.

After travelling some 2½ miles, we got out and went into a side cutting and saw a couple of men almost naked, but for a clout in front, picking at the coal and filling a barrow. I took the pick and brought a lot down. The coal that these men were working at was easy working, so they only got 6d. per barrow.

As soon as a barrow is filled it is run by a pulley to the main line and as soon as 60 barrows, holding 8 cwt. each are collected together, they are run off to the Shaft, for sending up. At every 20 yards, being obliged by law, they make recesses in each side for men to get into when they see a train rushing by.

There are 1500 men, 200 horses working in the Pit. The men work in three watches 6 hours each, commencing at 4 am and going on until 10 pm. The Manager said the three last days of the week were the only days they got anything like work out of the men. The horses some of them had been 18 years below the ground and I saw two cats that had been born below and never seen daylight.

This colliery is one of the deepest in England, and until lately was the deepest. The coal field is 600 yards below surface and is very extensive. The proprietors of this Colliery, Hobart & Bell, have 3,500 acres under the sea and 500 acres land not touched yet in this one seam, and they have discovered another seam underneath. The output is 1500 tons per day and they calculate at this rate its lasting 150 years.

The way they work the coal is by running channels in the seam, the depth of seam and 15 feet wide about, from the shaft, until they come to their boundary, using theodolites. Then they run small off shoots each side, gradually working the coal away between these off shoots and propping the ground up by beams and props until all the coal is worked away. Then by taking away the props they let the ground fall in.

The pit is ventilated by means of a huge furnace, which is built into the rock and draws the air to it sending it up a pit’s mouth (there being two to every pit) and the air rushes down the other mouth and after filling the pit rushes to the furnace. The furnace had fire bars that were kept slowly revolving by means of a donkey engine and that did not require any laying.

We got into fresh air after three hours of it.

Sent all my gear off by luggage train to Greenwich.

17 September – Thursday

Went out by special train to Sir Wm Armstrong’s works at Elswick, Newcastle and saw some very curious operations of how they make the coil of a gun and weld it. The heat of the furnaces is got by means of coal gas and air consuming and throwing out a tremendous heat.

Saw some practice with a Mitrailleuse and after a very good lunch, went back to Sunderland.

At 5 o’c went to a big teetotal meeting and sat as Chairman for a couple of hours giving them a couple of extempore speeches.

ARRIVE DEVONPORT – ON LEAVE

18 September – Friday

Started last night at 10.55 pm by 3rd class and travelling all night and day changing at Durham, Normanton, Derby and Bristol I got down to Plymouth at 6 pm. meeting Meta, Russ, Rob and Baldie at the station.

On the way home they told me about my poor Mother, which affected me very much. It appears that for a long time she has been suffering from pain etc in her left breast and her recent anxieties, troubles and sorrows have helped the tumour on which she had got.

Last Sunday, Square and two others had a consultation and it was decided to have the operation at 4 pm. So after a Prayer had been offered up and one or two hymns sung my darling Mother went bravely, in the strength of God, into an adjoining room and laying herself on the operating table, and took chloroform. Had her left breast cut open and a tumour the size of a Maltese orange taken out.

My Father and the family with Sir Harry Keppel (the dear old man who was crying and saying “Now Hall give us one of your beautiful prayers”) waited below and one can imagine their joy and thankfulness when told operation was successful.

Dear Mother – I was very much affected at meeting her, but, she is looking wonderfully well considering the great shock to her system and nerves.

19 September – Saturday

Stayed at home all day. Elsie came down and spent the evening.

21 September – Monday

Paid visits to Narcissus, Lapwing, and Topaze meeting Prickett in the former. It was nine years and a half since I left the old craft and it awoke many old associations in my mind. Saw Wiseman and Shore, his Lieutenant in Lapwing, she is going to China – and had a long yarn with Jackson, Comdr of Topaze.

22 September – Tuesday

My Mother getting on famously.

Meta continually receiving presents, which number now between forty and fifty, all of value. Made mine today and had to limit it to £10 in consequence of the shattered state of my finances. A year ago I had intended to have given her a £32 coral bracelet, but circumstances have changed.

Wedding to come off on the 13th prox.

23 September – Wednesday

“14 and 4 is 24 – All right”, says Jago. Took a long walk with my Father who told me all about his first going to sea, and a more persevering, interesting and instructive (besides being most amusing) career, I never heard of. I’d write it down but, that it would take so long and as most of it is written down already in my Father’s Journal. I shall now begin keeping my Journal in another book.