HMS AUDACIOUS

[Central battery ironclad]

1878: To Hong Kong in Pekin - Meeting with Meta and family in Malta - Passage Suez Canal - Visits Aden, Colombo, Singapore - Joins Audacious - War scare with Russia - Visits to Nagasaki, Kobe and Yokohama - Japanese festivals - Tension with Russia - Descriptions of Japanese life - Visit to Vladivostock - Return Hong Kong - Visits Canton - 1879: Returns UK.

1878

PASSAGE TO FAR EAST

6 February – Wednesday

27Came down to Southampton by the 5 o’clock train, previous to which I called on Admiral Hood at Admiralty and thanked him for my appointment. Found Lord Gilford out. Came down with Mr Payter. Father and Francie came as far as Sittingbourne with me.

It cut me up a good deal saying goodbye to them, seeing my poor old father so overcome, for we have been like two brothers since my Mother’s death, sharing the same anxieties etc. However, it must be so.

7 February – Thursday

Slept at the South Western Hotel. Very comfortable; terms moderate. It is very convenient for railway and steamer.

Went on board the Pekin in the morning. A fine steamer, one of the finest steamers the P & O have. Found I had Primrose and Trower for my cabin mates. Primrose going to Malta for Bittern, and Trower for Bombay. Left the docks sharp at the time, a good number of people coming down to see their friends off. A great deal of handkerchieves waving, a little weeping and soon we are off steaming down the Solent, 12 knots. 97 First-class passengers, not a very full cargo.

10 February – Sunday

The last few days being slightly rough, the passengers have not all shewn out in full bloom, but today being fine has brought them out. We had a short service in Saloon.

We have about 20 for Malta and Gibraltar, a number being young soldiers of 42nd and 98th returning off leave. Munro, Park, Ld Kennedy, Elliot, MacLeod, Drummond of 42nd; Preston [?] and some others for 98th, amongst whom was Bradley, taking his young wife out with him, a very pretty little girl. Lord Torpichen of Rifles for Gib sent messages to his brother, Sandilands, a Lieut in Audacious; Capt. Mead for Modeste, Dr Lawrenson for Lock Hospital at Yokohama. Chief Justice March for Shanghai; the Lamb party for Sydney included Mr and Mrs Lamb, Miss Lamb and Miss Annie Lamb and two boys; the Murrays for Calcutta, Mrs Murray and Miss Ella and Ada Murray, and a great number of other passengers. Mr and Mrs Wallis for Madras – that went by the name of the Beauty and the Beast.

11 February – Monday

Fine weather. Passed close to Cape St Vincent.

AT GIBRALTAR

12 February – Tuesday

Arrived at Gibraltar (1150 miles) about 8 o’clock, the homeward bound steamer arriving the same time. The Rock looked very much about the same as it ever has.

Uncle George kindly sent a boat off for me, and I very soon, in company with others, found my way ashore. I found Lily and Ethel just going to start for a picnic to the Cork Woods, mounted on very nice little Bays. Uncle George just out for a hunt. Lily has gone down considerably in size and is getting very like her Mother in appearance. Ethel has grown tremendously and is only half a head shorter than I am. Got some cigarettes at the Rock – 10/– per 100. We left the Rock after a stay of three hours, and soon steamed into the Mediterranean.

Sat next Miss Dallas now at table and Johnny Primrose. Miss Dallas being a young lady on her way to India to her parents. She is a very nice little lassie. Primrose leaves at Malta.

AT MALTA

16 February – Saturday

Arrived at Malta; 980 miles from Gib, and 2130 miles from Portsmouth; entering Quarantine Harbour in the forenoon.

(I should mention, though, that last night (Friday) we got up a most effective Concert in aid of the funds of Merchant Orphans’ Home. Many of the ladies sang and played, a reel was danced. Then we cleared away and a dance was set going, I playing at the piano). I saw Andrew and Edward in a Dyco and as soon as we got Quarantine, Major Mackenzie, Uncle of Edward’s and Esme’s, and I went ashore with them. We all went to Meta’s House, and there heard all about the very ugly affair of Esme and Major Monson (some of which is at the end of my Journal).

We all lunched at Andrew’s. Sybil has grown such a pretty little girl and Meta’s two boys still are the two finest lads I’ve seen. Met a great number of passengers, getting lace etc. and looking in at the Cathedral of St John’s. I did not manage to get a look, but I believe it was very highly got up in mourning drapery in respect of Pio Nono’s memory.

At 3 o’clock Major Mackenzie and I had to go on board and had a very affecting parting from them all. One felt so much at leaving them all in their troubles. Poor Meta looks by no means well. How blackguard it is of these saintly people gathering their skirts up and giving a cold shoulder to Meta and Edward, because they have nobly stuck to Andrew. Well, such is and always will be the world and the only friend that sticks to one, that one can turn to sure of a welcome, is to be found between the leaves of the good old Book.

Edward and Andrew evidently are deeply cut up and heart-broken by Esme’s conduct, to my mind much more so than Esme herself who talked to me about it and her chief anxiety seemed to be to know whether she was very famous or not. Another case of a beautiful woman making trouble through vanity and love of admiration.

Meta, Ned and Andrew came and saw us off and then returned ashore. Steaming out of harbour I ranged my telescope over the tops of the Hawser and soon spotted them all on the balcony and we waved to each other until the Fort shut us out from view.

TRANSIT OF SUEZ CANAL

21 February - Thursday

The run from Malta was done very quickly. very fine weather. Did not meet a single steamer. Our evenings were spent with music, singing and dancing, Miss Cox doing the singing principally. The irrepressible Bol was getting everything up. He began to get very obnoxious.

This morning I got up early and witnessed a beautiful sunrise. Found ourselves off Port Said (940 from Malta & 3070 from England). It was quite calm and the Arab fishing boats, with their tall white felucca sails shining under the rising sun, were very pretty.

Port Said is a hole, a low hole and yet a very vile hole. It stands on very low flat ground, nothing but sands all round. The entrance to the Canal is made by two long piers running out about a half mile from the entrance. On the right entering stands Port Said, full of the gambling houses and prostitute shops, and the scum of the earth inhabiting it. The only decent houses are those of the different Agencies.

We made fast to a couple of buoys opposite P Said, until the tide suited. The Pallas is anchored here. There is just room for a couple of steamers to pass, for steamers on the other side are laying across the canal and discharging cargo. Lots of Arabs on board selling figs etc.

At 8.30 we enter the Canal in the sand, having a French Pilot on board and steaming 4 knots. Low banks each side. On the right Lake Qantara and on our left, to our vision, an endless expanse of sand with mirage of sand hills showing. A very bright sunny day, but not unpleasantly warm.

We went along very smoothly and quietly, passing the stations about every ten miles or less perhaps. At these Stations are Gares, or cuttings, so that steamers can pass one another. There was little life to the seen. Now and then an Arab went by on his camel and one or two ran along the edge of the Canal quite close to the vessel picking up money and fruit thrown by the passengers. We stuck in the canal several times, the wind being astern made it difficult to steer the vessel, but we did not take long getting off and soon got out our small Brilliant cable and made fast to a post, these posts being stuck in the sand every 3 or 4 feet.

We could not manage to get to Ismailia that night, so we anchored in the Canal and it being a beautiful night we got up a dance, a farewell dance to the Bombay passengers who leave us at Suez. Willis, Captain in Hodson’s Horse, being our great dancing man. We had great fun, the best dance being the Corkscrew dance.

Next morning we arrived at Ismailia, on one of the lakes which has been deepened out considerably so that 7 or 8 steamers can turn round. Ismailia is not a large place. It is scattered and I should say it was a kind of watering place. The Khedive has a Palace here, but there are not many large houses to be seen. We found four steamers here and at 9 o’clock we passed on into the Canal again.

A very curious effect of the vessel passing through the water is, that commencing just abreast of her bow, the water rushes aft at the rate of four miles an hour and draws right off the bank, it seems to be drawn towards the counter and abreast our quarter. It is met by a baro that rushes along after us.

Colonel & Mrs Vernon lost their young baby this morning, not looking after it properly.

Arrived at the Bitter Lake (Great). We could steam the next 8 miles full speed. In crossing it, we passed the Messagerie steamer going the other way. Three more English steamers passed us, and one getting aground delayed us an hour or so, which ultimately prevented us getting out of the Canal that night also. So we ran her nose on the bank and let her remain for the night. We felt the tide here and listed over a bit.

22 February – Friday

Got up early this morning and found we were just entering the docks of Suez and very capacious ones they are too. I should think at least 16 large steamers could lay alongside and take in cargo. One of these large dredging machines was here. It struck me, the little dredging one saw going on, for with the exception of the two we saw close to Port Said, there were three others along the Canal. I should mention that yesterday afternoon we had a very heavy shower of rain, not unusual since the Canal has been opened, but that has [not?] occurred before the time of the Canal.

We were soon alongside, then began turning the Bombay passengers over to the Venetian.

Miss Cox received a telegram telling her to return to England. She got in a great state of mind, not knowing whether the young man she was going out to marry was dead or had broken off the engagement. But later on, she enquired at the Telegraph Office and they gave her the second part of the telegram, to say he was on his way home. The telegraph people said they did not think it concerned her.

A party was soon made up to ride up on donkeys to Suez. Mrs Bray, Mrs Christison and Miss Ada Murray, being the ladies, and King and I the gentlemen. As soon as we put our foot on shore we were surrounded by donkey boys – the boys being men, all clamouring to get up on their donkeys. At last we all mounted and started off, and arrived at Suez. The rascals wanted 2/– for each donkey, the fare being 6d. I stuck out and would not pay, although the din and row was terrific. I offered 1/3d, a rupee each, but no, they would not take it, so we set out through the town (not much), for the English Hotel.

To get through it, you are obliged to pass through the Bazaars, French, Arab and Turkish, very little difference to see between them. The Bazaar being narrow lanes, stalls each side and covered with all sorts of wares; a great deal of coloured cotton ware. The place was full of dusky Arabs and Egyptians, and we had some difficulty getting through the throng.

The Hotel is a very fair one and before purchasing anything, it is best to make enquiries at the Hotel. You can get some things there.

Mr and Mrs Kyse left us here for Cairo. They were getting rather a nuisance on board.

After reading telegrams and papers etc, we came back and had another grand row with the donkey men.

However, we got some more fellows to help us and started off and getting down to the steamer had yet another row. However, I was firm and would only give a rupee apiece.

At 2 o’c the Venetian went off, amid cheers etc. Willis waving a sheet. I lost my little friend, Miss Dallas. An hour afterwards we followed, and soon left Suez behind, steaming down the Gulf of Suez, 12 knots an hour, land both sides. Unfortunately we were hardly far enough ahead to see Mounts Horeb and Sinai. A rattling good breeze astern kept us cool.

That evening the Judge drew my attention to the Zodiacal Light, which I had never observed before. Made friends with the Murray party.

AT ADEN

27 February – Wednesday

Aden (1308 fr. Suez). (4378 fr. England). The passage through the Red Sea was not unpleasant owing to a good breeze all the time. The last day we had a stiff breeze against us, as we passed through the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb. High land on the port hand and the Island of Perim on our starboard hand. The Strait is not by any means wide, about 12 miles. We have a detachment on the Island, and a battery of guns. It must be dreadfully lonely living there only seeing the steamers pass.

Most of the way down the Red Sea we saw land one side or the other, principally the African side, sometimes passing quite close to Islands as the Red Sea is very well lighted up now, to what it used to be.

Occupied my time, working up gunnery and taking French lessons from Miss Ada Murray, who was very strict and had me ultimately in capital order by dint of throwing my books about when any skylarking began.

Arrived here early this morning and only staying a very short time. I did not go ashore, and as we anchored outside round the point, we did not see the town, but one could see what a fine bay and anchorage it was. Found the Diamond here, and shortly after leaving, we passed the Undaunted under all plain sail on her way to Aden. She looked very pretty, dipped our colours to her. Rooper will not have long to wait for her at Aden.

AT POINT DE GALLE

7 March – Thursday

(2134 fr. Aden) (6512 fr. England). Nothing occurred worthy of note, during our passage, excepting the heat began to get a nuisance 86 degrees at night. I got vaccinated after leaving Aden, as did Edgar, a tea man at Cachar.

On getting up this morning, found we were steaming into Point de Galle, and a beautiful scene it was, that presented itself to one’s view. A thoroughly tropical scene, the harbour is a small bay, thickly wooded with palms and tropical foliage to the water’s edge. On the left, you can see where the town is by seeing the white tops of some of the lofty bungalows and towers of the Churches and Mosques, peeping out from the top of the trees.

We find the Armide French Flagship on her way to China, and Australian Mail waiting. The China steamer does not come in until Saturday. We are soon surrounded by catamarans and boats.

We anchor head to seaward and haul our stern shorewards, by hawser made fast to buoys. There was not much swell on, but in the SW monsoon it must be very nasty work. Vessels are anchored in this manner on account of the swell.

Everyone is soon ashore and in about five minutes we are ashore. Galle is a good sized place and has fortification all round, built by the Dutch some 200 years ago, and like similar Indian forts, very substantially built. But now-a-days a gunboat with a good rifled gun could play “old Harry” with it all.

Through the archway of the old Fort, that is used now by the P & O for a Store-house, and also used as a Custom House and in appearance it looks intended for these purposes, we pass through an avenue of Palms, leaving a Guard House on our left (2 Coy. of English soldiers at Galle, 57th Reg.) and we arrive at the New Oriental Hotel, a fine large building with such a cool verandah. The Hotel is crowded with some 100 passengers and in front are gathered a hundred or more of the most motley crowd of half naked natives, you would wish to see. Offering to sell everything and asking tremendous prices, ten and twenty times the price, and many an unfortunate passenger is taken in.

Mackenzie, Edgar, Pelham and I made up a party and drove out in a trap to Wakwella, some 5 miles out. The road is very good. We gave our man an extra 1/– and made him pass the Murray party, nearly capsizing us so doing.

Lots of the juvenile Singalese escorted us out, offering beautiful bouquets of flowers etc. for an anna, just gathered at the side of the road and lemon grass etc. The road was beautifully wooded all the way. Arrived at our destination, we walked up the hill, and there found a bungalow at the top, and sat in the cool verandah and admired the view. It was certainly a very fine view, all round us hills clothed with the luxuriant tropical trees, and at our feet rolled the Gin Ganga, making its way through paddy fields and winding away between the hills, in the far distance. Adams Peak in the far distance, where most of the Rubies and Sapphires come from, they are found in pits, and earth being washed in sieves, falls through and leaves the stones on the meshes. Many pilgrims old and young, clamber to the top of Adams Peak, it being sacred, as the place Bhudda put his foot on.

Drove back and went off to the Pekin, first going to the Assam to wish the Lambs, Mackie [?] and other Australian friends Goodbye. That evening the Assam left and we gave her a round of cheering. I led off and heard the Count’s voice saying – “Is that you Monsieur ‘All.” Had some music afterwards, Mrs Waller playing and singing, Lawrenson also warbling, and a very good voice, he has too.

8 March – Friday

Paid a visit with Marsh to the French Ironclad Armide. They were very civil to us, showing us all over the vessel. She has four guns about the size of our 6½ ton guns, in the central battery, and one more each side on the upper deck, en barbette, amidships. Her broadside guns are no height above the water and in any sea-way could not be used. Her small guns are of the latest pattern, vent in the centre of the breech piece. Chassepot rifles, very good revolvers, and a capital shell gun for keeping off torpedo boats. I think it has five barrels, and fires 35 a minute; about a 3 lb. shell goes off on concussion. It is an American gun, Hotchkiss. Her towering [?] torpedoes, on each quarter are like our 100 lb. torpedo case, and fit in a piece of wood about 15 feet long, fired by electricity. The Armide is evidently an old vessel.

Spent the rest of the day at the Hotel. A very fine vessel, the Seringapatam, lying here, can’t get any cargo, freights being so low.

9 March – Saturday

The Kashgar came in and does not sail until tomorrow morning. Spent all day on board the Pekin excepting a stroll with Mackenzie round the ramparts. Found it too hot and came back to the ship.

After dinner, much leave-taking and fun, and on board the Kashgar. Bought a ring this morning for £2. Rubies and Pearls.

10 March – Sunday

Still taking in cargo. Looked out of my port and saw an umbrella sticking out of the Murray’s port. Handkerchief attached. Went on the F.Dk, and talked to some of the ladies on fingers.

Paid a farewell visit to Pekin in catamaran, and at 9 o’c the Judge, Capt. Mead and I, on her leaving, gave a cheer. The Judge singing out and leading most manfully, and amidst waving of towels, handkerchiefs, etc, we parted. At 10 o’c we followed.

14 March – Thursday

Passed early this morning, the Northern end of Sumatra and saw the Golden Horn 10,000 feet high. Communicated with the Norfolk, a fine vessel of Wigram’s. She wanted some provisions, supplied her. Her Capt’n left us one of his pamphlets about the sea-serpent which he saw off the Brazils. We are a very jovial little party, ten in all, only two China passengers besides our party from the Pekin. It has been very warm 86°, on our cabin and we have not the large ports the Pekin has.

I don’t wonder the P & O have lost their Chinese passengers for the Capt’n Baker said, not so very long ago, some 40 passengers came down from China and on arriving at Galle, they only found two vacant places kept for them in the Calcutta steamer. Then, having to rough it in the Mail, or go on to Bombay and take the Mail, from there and the same thing with freight whilst the Messagerie run straight to Marseilles.

Been reading up summary since leaving Galle, as much as the heat and some abominable stinks on board would let me.

AT PENANG

15 March – Friday

Arrived at Penang this morning 1220 miles from Point de Galle and 7732 miles from England.

Saw a Chinese Junk for the first time; not much different to what I expected to see. Lots of sampans soon gathered round the ship on anchoring. The boatmen seemed mostly Chinese.

Landed with the Judge and Mead and Hervey joining us. We went out in a couple of gharries, a very good four-wheeled conveyance, to the waterfalls some five miles out. Very good roads, and scenery the same as at Galle, only prettier. It seemed more civilised, very pretty and large bungalows each side, a good part of the way. The hovels the Chinese live in have not much privacy about them.

The waterfalls were very pretty – nothing very much. At the foot of it stands a Hindoo Temple, and we saw some half-a-dozen men and women going through the Rites, salaaming, kissing the ground, walking three times round the temple and smearing marks of lime over their faces, taken from the plate, with fire burning in it.

One old man came up and seeing Hervey lame, asked him by signs, what was the matter with him, making most obscene gestures to signify his meaning. Hervey made us laugh telling the story after we came down from the top of the waterfall.

We all crossed over by ferry steamer to the Territory of Wellesley and made our way to Hervey’s brother’s bungalow. He is a Magistrate and has a fine large bungalow. He gave us a rattling good lunch. The curry was a thing to be remembered. I must get the recipe. I never tasted such a dish in my life.

Came back to the P & O steamer, giving the Herveys a cheer from the boat and wishing Hervey a speedy recovery from the gout that afflicts him. Serious news by telegraph about Russia. That lying dishonourable nation.

Penang is an island 15 miles by 9 miles and is mountainous, having a fringe of plain running at its base. On some of the bay round on the plain facing the mainland stands George Town, a good-sized place. It is about three miles across. Wellesley is a strip of territory some 35 miles long and 10 miles broad, belonging to us.

I found out yesterday about the Betel Nut. It grows on a straight thin palm and the Sere plant is grown on poles, like hops. The natives take the Betel Nut and wrap it up with some lime in the Sere leaf and chew it, something like tobacco and its juice makes their teeth and gums red.

Tigers sometimes swim across to Penang, or used to. I was surprised to hear of instances given of tigers swimming 10 miles.

AT SINGAPORE

17 March – Sunday

Singapore 395 miles from Penang and 8127 miles from England. We came into the New Harbour at 8 o’c in the morning, and very pretty it is. Trees growing quite out of the water and quaint looking Chinese dwellings, dotted about stuck up on poles in the water. We soon lashed alongside the P & O wharf. They possess a nice piece of property here.

After breakfast, Mead, the Justice and myself drove up to the town some three miles in a gharry and attended Service in the English Church – punkas were going the whole time. It was a very nice service. The preacher, we all voted an ass, and we found out afterwards it was the Revd. A. Tooth of Ritualistic notoriety. After service, I drove out to the Tanglin Barracks and arrived in time for tiffin. I sent out [?] Parkinson, Capt. Fowler’s nephew, a nice young fellow whilst smoking. Lyttleton said “I know what you would like” – I said, “What?” , and he said “A good cold bath”, and in a few seconds I was stripped, the fellows bringing sponge etc. and I had a most refreshing [bath]. They seemed a good lot of fellows. The 74th have just relieved the 28th at Hong Kong, which the 28th regret very much. Found Lyttleton’s father and mine were out in the Carlist war together.

After spending some time at barracks, came back to dinner on board with the Judge. The Charybdis and two small craft are in. Everything is at a stand-still on the station pending war, or not. Capt’n Hotham kindly sent and asked me to come on board Charybdis but I could not manage it. They have had a good deal of fever on board, thus laying in the New Harlem.

24 March – Sunday

A strong NE monsoon with swell has been against us the last two days, bringing our speed down to 9 knots. Hope to get into Hong Kong tomorrow morning.

HMS Audacious. Hong Kong 1440 miles from Singapore and 9567 miles from England.

ARRIVE HONG KONG – JOIN AUDACIOUS

28 March – Thursday

Have had time to shake down. I joined on Sunday morning whilst Church was going, a launch being sent for me. Found Willoughby all ready to welcome me, and after Church made acquaintance with Admiral and others. Tho’ after all it was not making acquaintance as I knew all before. Lunched with Harry Kelham at the 74th Barrack’s, then paid a visit to Dr Wells and attended service at the Cathedral.

Came on board and dined with the Admiral, a very good dinner. He manages to stow a good deal of liquor away under his jacket and tries to make everyone else do the same. Felt very depressed this afternoon, not being very well and joining a new ship and knowing how careful one must be, not to tread on people’s corns. I must just manage to keep things going on much the same as they are. Find everything very well organised and in good order.

Landed yesterday with the Battalion. Parr going in charge and I put them through skirmishing.

Have been very busy with Castles, getting things to extemporise for electric firing, the detonators and tubes all having deteriorated very much, so that really electric firing cannot be carried on in the flag-ship nor can an outrigger torpedo. So fired and nothing to be got out of War Stores ashore. So, Castles and I have been very busy looking at different things to use as exploders etc.

31 March – Sunday

Took the Holy Communion and asked for strength that having shown my colours I may keep them flying. Dined last night with Castles, a small dinner party of 6 given in my honour; a very pleasant dinner. Managed to get out of my dinner at the 74th owing to a cut over the eye and a small abscess now getting better, that a cold has given me in my left ear.

Serious telegrams keep coming out. Working away fitting up extempore torpedo fittings for ship.

DEPART HONG KONG

7 April – Sunday

Steaming from Hong Kong to Nagasaki. We left with the idea of going to Yokohama, but the Admiral has altered his mind. Some think it is a ruse-de-guerre, as the Russian flag-ship and fleet are at Yokohama. I don’t think myself it is more than the Admiral changing his mind. At any rate we shall get later news at Nagasaki. It is to be hoped the Admiral will go through the Inland Sea. Capt’n Buller wrote to the Admiral from Yokohama. He had lately dined with the Russian Admiral. They kept a sharp look-out for the English ships. Buller also sent a plan of the Outrigger Torpedoes, the Russians had constructed at Yokohama. They have also bought up all the lint at Yokohama.

I have been very busy fitting up the Dipping Battery and have had many difficulties to contend against, but I hope to be successful by God’s help, for why not go to God for help, in small, as in large affairs.

10 April – Wednesday

Partially successful with my Battery nil desperandum. Dined this evening with the Admiral. He was very jovial, told me to tell my father of our night quarters last Monday night (meaning I suppose a rather random after dinner speech he made at 10.30 pm to the men). He said “It will please the old boy.”

Went over with Parish the list of ships on the Station, and we both concluded we had a regular lot of cripples out here. Very good for Treaty Ports and the Chinese, but not meant for actual work.

ARRIVE NAGASAKI

12 April – Friday

Each side are hills, and behind these again rise higher hills and mountains, the hills being beautifully green with foliage and cultivation. The ground is cut up into small plots and terraces, otherwise, the water would run off at once. The shades of green are most varied and beautiful from very dark to very light. Patches of brown rock showing out here and there only tend to bring out the surrounding colours more beautifully. The contour of the hills, also, so fine, well rounded and so many contours and undulating. I don’t thing I’ve ever seen a more beautiful place.

The town lies in a hollow between two hills and runs back from the sea, all wooden houses. Fires sweep them down by wholesale when they do break out, but on the other hand shocks of earthquakes are frequent. The dress of the Jappers is different to the Chinese, more of the Jappers hereafter.

Went with the Admiral and inspected the Sylvia (Pelham Aldrich’s). Very clean and neat. Afterwards shifted and went with Admiral and Captain to the Deomina [?] Bazaar and saw the china, some of it very good. Then, went and had a look at the new dock building. It will be finished in another year and will take, I should say, the largest ship afloat.

DEPART NAGASAKI

13 April – Saturday

Nagasaki to Yokohama. Yesterday afternoon I went ashore again with Richards, the Paymaster. We strolled through the town. It is a large sized town. I should say some 20 – 30,000 inhabitants. The streets are not very broad, some 20 feet generally, but then as no wheeled conveyances are used, but the jinny ricks, it does not matter.

The jinny ricks are like large sized two-wheeled perambulators, with a hood moveable, and shafts with cross pieces in front and one man getting into the shafts will run you along some 6 miles an hour. They always go at a trot. The streets are paved in the centre for these jinny-ricks to run along on.

The houses are generally two storied and divided by partitions made of paper on wooded framings and these partitions slide very easily. The floor is covered with matting, no chairs or tables as Japanese always sit with their sterns on their heels. You can generally see every room on the lower floor. The houses are built of wood with a great deal of lattice work about them, and are kept very clean. There is not much privacy about them.

The people are either very immoral or in a state of pristine innocence. I think a combination of both. The public bath houses, have partition running down the middle, women one side, men the other, and both sides open to the view, and from the street, you see both sexes in their primeval state. They don’t mind in the least being so public. In fact, one may say they wash in the streets and the rig of some of the men is very like the South Sea Islands and many only wear a band and a kind of truss. The women wear more clothes, but some of the women are very scant about their bulwarks, and their rig is uncommonly like the rig of women at home now, tight about the legs and a big bow behind.

They wear their hair similar to the Chinese but bring a tuft from the front of the head back to the scalp. The men wear their hair moderately short and shave from the scalp along the top of the head to the front and then bring a tightly marled tuft down along the shaved part from the scalp to the front – the reverse way to the women.

The married women black their teeth and I believe are faithful enough. The young girls, it is considered no disgrace for them to live with a man. As long as she is living with one man, it is considered a tie binding, however short a time it may be. Then, she may go from one to another. It is a very common thing for men to go to the brothels to pick up a wife and it is all right after marriage. The women are very small, averaging I should think five feet at the outside, better looking than the Chinese. The Japanese are very different to the Chinese. They have not the same stolid look of vacancy a Chinaman wears and are much more lively and good-humoured.

Yesterday, was the great festival of Kites, and in the afternoon thousands of kites were flying all about the place. They fly them very well, making them dip and hover about like a bird and wheel to the right and left, and they make them fight each other, saw each other’s strings through.

I went to the top of the hills overlooking the town were there are thousands of their ancestors tombs (they bury in casks and place them on end, and over the place they place a small pedestal about three feet high): the whole sides of the hills, about the town are thus covered and of course the water is very impure. Arrived at the top of hill, I joined a party of Jappers and watched the kite flying. The country for some two miles was alive with people flying kites and numbers with long bamboo poles running about and catching the falling kites that had their string cut through. Sometimes they struggled for a kite, but all in good humour. Amongst the many hundreds I passed through I did not see an angry look, but all laughing and joking.

My Japper friends made me drink some saki made from rice and I gave them cigarettes, at which they were very much pleased. One young lady there playing a species of guitar and singing.

One thing that particularly strikes one is the politeness of all around. If a Japper speaks to you, or to another Japper they bow and bow and it is most amusing to see two meet in the road. They bow to each other and keep their ladies bent at right angles, looking up at each other, it being a point of honour not to get up first, and until one gets a crick in the back, so they remain, but not speaking, hyperbolically. I never met a more polite lot. They beat the French out of the field, all classes.

Can’t say I thought much of the singing by the young women, very girlish and twangy. They accompany themselves on a three or four stringed instrument, something like a banjo, striking the strings with a piece of tortoiseshell.

ARRIVE YOKOHAMA

17 April – Wednesday

Arrived at Yokohama. Found here the Juno, Modeste, Egeria and Kestrel and the Russian Squadron, the Bayan, Flagship, Gaidamak and Vsadnik. Heard there were two others cruising to the westward somewhere. The usual visits were paid and any amount of saluting went on. The Russian Admiral excused himself dining with our Admiral, Thursday night, Friday night, Saturday and Sunday nights and on Monday he said he was going to sea.

22 April – Monday

Yokohama to Nagasaki via Kobe and the Inland Sea. I went ashore at once on Thursday and endeavoured to buy some platinum wire. I went in company with Bridgford, the Marine Artilleryman stationed here, as he knows everyone. We went first to Van Lissa and found he had sold all his. No need to say who to. Going into his back premises I saws a lot of fuzes, just finished making. He laughed and we examined them. He said the last bit of his platinum wire had been used on them. They were the last batch of 500 and had cost 30 cents a-piece, nearly £30 for the lot. Of course he did not tell us who they were made for, but that was not necessary.

In a few hours time they had found their way to their destination. We hunted the town through and found the same answer. The Russians had been there three weeks before. I invested in £16 worth of carbon plates and cleared Van Lissa’s shop out. Just got enough to make 4 large Leclanché cells for ship.

Bridgford has made arrangements to know immediately the Russians think of going. On Friday morning early the Modeste and Egeria went out under sealed orders. I think either to Australia, where it is thought these Russians mean to go, or to be near these other two, who are cruising about somewhere. The Russians had some two dozen spar torpedoes made here of sheet copper to stand a pressure of 50 lbs on the square inch. I can see their ships are fitted for three booms each side. Went ashore every day endeavouring to get wire, but always the same answer.

Coaled ship immediately after Church on Good Friday, finished at 8 pm. Saturday.

Heard of the line between Shanghai and Nagasaki being broken. That is the line coming from Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Nagasaki, Kobe and Yokohama, and the one we get our news by. The Russians have a line from St Petersburg to Vladivostock and so they hear all the news and we don’t. Our line is broken about 100 miles from Shanghai. On a bank there it sometimes breaks, being fished up by junks and then a piece taken out of it, but the last few years the Junk masters have had a kind of subsidy to keep it clear. It is however very easily cut.

Sunday morning at 5.30 the Russians went away very quietly. The Admiral went up to Tokyo and saw Sir H. Parkes.

We had Service at 9 o’c and the Holy Communion. I had been sent for at 6 o’c and told to get all I wanted off as we were going South, after the Russians, and to pick up the telegraph at Kobe, or Nagasaki; or, if not repaired I suppose at Shanghai. The Admiral came down at 11 o’c, and 2 o’c we were at sea, towing the Magpie on our way South.

DEPART YOKOHAMA

We heard from a Japanese transport that she had passed the Russian Fleet steering SW off Vries Island so they must have been going a good rate. The Admiral heard at Tokyo – a telegram from St Petersburg – saying matters were more peaceable, but that may have been a blind only, for there are suspicions of foul play, and we know the Russians tamper with the [?] one on the Telegraph Department. Both lines are in the same company’s hands.

The Singapore line had been broken on the 20th and we did not hear of it until late on the 21st. Messages had been taken in all the same. The line sometimes takes three days repairing, sometimes more. It all depends whether the steamer is ready at Shanghai. It is a great nuisance for us and looks very suspicious.

We don’t trust the Russians a bit. They would no more respect the Japanese waters than they respect the truth and would just as soon torpedo us in neutral waters as look at us. War might break out any day and we should not know it until some time after they do, until the line is repaired. No doubt we shall see them at Kobe tomorrow.

Sounded off to action this morning. Everything worked very well. Getting on very well with my ship’s battery (Leclanché). Have to keep the Morning Watch now, Garbett having a game leg.

ARRIVE KOBE

28 April – Sunday

Came in here last Wednesday. Found the Russian Squadron in here and telegraph lines all right. Coaled ship Thursday.

That evening the Admiral gave a large dinner party to the Russians. I dined aft also and sat next the Flag Lieut, a very nice young fellow. The Russian Admiral, Capt. of Vsadnik, the Judge from Kashgar, were among the guests. The Russian Admiral has a very distingué appearance. The dinner went off very well, notwithstanding the fact that neither Admirals could communicate with each other, ours speaking English and French, and the Russian his own language and German. We drank the Queen’s and Czar’s health together standing, band playing. After dinner we smoked and at 10 o’c they went, with the exception of Captain of Vsadnik, who stayed until 12 o’c smoking and drinking Plymouth Gin with our Admiral. The latter got very full and told the Russian he intended following their ships. The Russian stood his liquor uncommonly well, he did not let anything out though.

That night at 3 am his ship went out of harbour, no one knowing it was her, she went so quietly.

Saturday morning the Gaidamak went out, and we left this morning at 4 am for Nagasaki, Magpie in tow leaving the Frolic and Bayan at Kobe.

Friday, Parr and I went up Mayasan Hill, some 2500 feet. It was a tremendous tug getting up. Parr having such long legs made me extend mine somewhat beyond the usual length to keep up. Met Lang half way up, who joined us. Arrived at the top, refreshed ourselves with some weak Japanese tea and some delicious oranges. The Temple of the Moon at the top is like most Bhuddist Temples, rather of the shanty style, and inner room into which you look is full of bronze ornaments, a few being artistically wrought. Numerous large bell ropes hanging about in the porch of the temple, which worshippers pull, which causes a gong to be hit and wakes up Bhudda. Some of the bell ropes were as big as an 18 inch hawser. All the way up to the Temple are stuck, by the way, small sticks with prayers on paper attached to them, representing so many cents in the priests’ pockets.

Came back by the waterfalls. Uncommonly pretty the ravines are. Pretty little tea-houses peeping out here and there, it makes a charming scene. Came back to the town in Jinny Ricks. Our men in theirs racing back, quite lost all idea of decency and their truss suspender was worse than useless.

Went ashore this afternoon with Richards and bought china. We saw two very fine bowls in a shop. The man asked $9 for the pair. We refused and offered $4 – “No” – so we went away to another shop intending to come back and offer a little more. We met the Admiral, Durrant and Parish in another shop – being short of cash borrowed $5 from Durrant. Admiral’s party walked down the street, I said “I’ll bet you Richards that the Admiral sees the bowls.” So it happened. Durrant we saw pointing them out to Admiral, who bargained and offered $4½ – “No.” To our great relief they left. We sauntered down and then offered $4½. He closed and we took the bowls. Parish said to Admiral, “We’ll go away and come back, – those other fellows can’t take them as they have no money.” They came back and found the bowls sold.

DEPART KOBE
ARRIVE NAGASAKI

1 May – Wednesday

Nagasaki. Arrived in this afternoon. We left Kobe Sunday morning and came through the Inland Sea. It is really a succession of small islands, the lakes also being full of Islands. The shores lined with towns and villages and the sea literally alive with fishing boats. In one of these lakes, we passed through Sunday afternoon, we computed there must have been some 7,000 of these Sampans.

Now and then you would see Daimyo’s residence standing, generally on a hill, close to or in the town, high buildings with courts and outhouses and surrounded by a high mud wall. It was most charming, passing along through these islands. Sometimes barely a ship’s length across and steering now and then almost the opposite way, will show what a ...[?] course we made. We anchored each night and got under weigh at 4 o’c. Passed through Shimonoseki Straits. Very narrow at one place and a six knot current with us yesterday morning. Shores lined as usual with villages and ground well cultivated.

Anchored last night under the lee of an island and came in this afternoon. Found here Modeste, Egeria, Lily and Sylvia; also an American and the two Russians Vsadnik and Gaidamak. Not much war news.

4 May – Saturday

Sandilands, Miller and myself went out for a 11 mile walk to the waterfall. It was a tremendous tug over the hills that surround Nagasaki. We passed through Yagami, a large village and got to the waterfall at 1 o’clock. The scenery is very pretty, not grand, but being well wooded and every square foot cultivated and hilly, it is very pretty indeed. Wheat and rice are principally grown about here and beans to some extent. The ground for the rice is just being got ready, being ploughed up by very primitive kind of ploughs. Indeed, an English plough would be quite thrown away in the little plots the ground is cut up into, every inch on the hill sides being cultivated and the sides of the hills are one mass of terraces to keep the water on the hills.

Arrived at the Tea-House at the Waterfall. We at once stripped and plunged into the pool at the bottom. The lady of the house came out and greeted us with “Ohayo.” Sandilands standing on the rock, made a most grave bow. We had some difficulty in getting something to dry ourselves with. At last she brought us some rags which did duty for towels. It seems strange bathing before women. Out here men and women bathe indiscriminately together, but it is wonderful how custom reconciles you to these things.

We walked backed pretty briskly and got back in time for dinner.

10 May – Friday

Been the last few days rigging out Torpedo Obstruction. Got our trysail masts, Gaffs, jib Booms, and all spars out, with swifters round. Had some experiments, running full tilt at the Obstruction with Steam Pinnace. Obstruction did very well, but hardly feasible, if lying off an enemy’s port, as gear would foul the screw. Only good would be, when you could not manage to keep underway.

Made some trials at night time of running down to ship without being seen. Made several runs. Moonlight night, but cloudy, not very dark. Average time, from noise of engines heard and phosphorus of water at times seen, to bring alongside: 1 minute. Naked eye only being used. Binoculars would add on another minute.

12 May – Sunday

Vigilant broken down. No mails till Friday next. Yesterday, Goodrich, Dodgson and I went for a ride out to Isahaya, via Yagami. We left at 9 am and got out to Isahaya at 1.00. The ponies went along very well. It was terrible work holding them in.

We had a Japanese lunch of rice, cha, seaweed, eggs at a tea-house, surrounded by a crowd of admiring Jappers, smoked – forty winks and off again.

Isahaya, like most of these large Japanese villages, consists of a long street, about a mile to two miles long, paved in the centre so that a jinny rick can go along very well. The road out is very good and level and runs along between hills most of the way. The great thing is to get over the hills round Nagasaki, but these ponies step out wonderfully well. A very fine two arched bridge at Isahaya, the peculiarity of it being that the arches dip in the centre. You go to the [foot?] of each arch by means of steps, up which the ponies went up splendidly.

Came back at a rattling pace. My pony stuck two thirds of the way, up the hill coming back and I could not get him on, although I tried coaxing, pushing him broadside on, etc. It came on to rain very heavily and pony and I waited an hour. Then the Bato [?] came up and I turned the pony over to him. He immediately took a large stone and hove it at the brute’s head and ultimately made it go on. We gave $2 and 50 cts. just $½ too much.

French Flag-ship Armide, came in, Wednesday, May 15th.

18 May – Saturday

Intended going out to Isahaya again with Goodrich, but it simply pelted up to 1 o’c, so went curio hunting and picked up a very pretty kakemono for $2½. (a painting on silk).

19 May – Sunday

Mail came in. A long letter from Father. Robbie at home, likely to get employment. It will do the boy good being at home a bit. I see my Father is on the Court-martial on the loss of HMS Eurydice. Took the Communion.

21 May – Tuesday

Went out in the launch for a sail with Parr, Aldrich, Mrs Aldrich and two Mids; very pleasant sail. French mail came in, coming by the Hugon, French man-of-war. More particulars about loss of Eurydice. I have lost in Tabor, Strange and Smith, three old messmates and very good fellows too. Strange was a very religious man. Curiously enough he owned the Derby course and Grand Stand.

The Shannon, Ruby and Diamond are on their way out here, if not already at Hong Kong, to reinforce the station. I hope to see my old friend Holbech, who is 1st Lieut of Shannon. The rumour is that the Russians intend to risk everything and have a slap at our commerce round by the Manilas and to the Southward of Hong Kong.

24 May – Friday

Her Majesty’s Birthday. Some gaiety on board, a general holiday, pig and greasy pole, boat sailing etc.

I went out to the Waterfall and found a riding party of ladies and gentlemen there having tiffin, who asked me to join them, which I did after bathing in the stream some little way down. Whilst splashing in the water, I looked up and saw an admiring crowd of men, women and children admiring my evolutions, showing modesty out of sight, but desiring to spend my natural life in water. I got out and dried myself, the Jappers looking on all the time very complacently. Came back by myself from the waterfall, Sandilands not turning up.

Admiral had a large dinner party including the Russian consul. The Gun Room fellows are entertaining the G.R. of Armide. The Frenchmen’s bellies are full of liquor and there is much singing of the Marseillaise.

25 May – Saturday

Went for a ride to Ioketes this afternoon with Whiddon, but on getting out about 6 miles, through W. not steering well, the pony slipped over the edge of a paddy field and sent W. off. I was much relieved to find only a bruised shoulder, but a very bad one. We walked back to Nagasaki, or rather made our nags do so.

We passed some of the Satsuma men, prisoners of the late rebellion, employed dragging a kind of path coach along. They seemed very merry.

I should mention that Thursday last, I breakfasted with Monsieur de la Jonquere[?], à la fourchette, and then witnessed them at General Quarters and had a good look at all their guns etc. They were all very civil and courteous to me. They were not up to much in the drilling line. Sent in a report.

28 May – Tuesday

Paid a visit to the Hugon and saw them at General Quarters. Frenchmen drill too much like machines and have not the same dash and spirit our bluejackets have.

Received a long letter from my dear Father. Rob still at home and I’m glad of it. Francie excelled on the piano at the Concert. A pleasant talk with Corfe.

31 May – Friday

My brother Willie died this day 1866. My dear Mother alone then. Now she has gone and taken half my heart with her, I loved her so much. My heart is fit to burst when I think of her. I can’t do it. If done, I dream terribly at night – so painful. I pray God we may all meet in an unbroken circle round his Throne.

Goodrich and I lunched with Lawrenson at the Belle Vue Hotel, two Japanese doctors also lunching. After lunch we went to the School in the Ashiwara and saw the young ladies at work there, some learning to write and some sewing. It was a curious sight and it is a curious institution, being a Government one, but it is peculiar to Japan. I did not think much of their beauty.

From the school, after investing in some things there, we were taken to see some curios in a private house, having to go through a brothel to get at it, and the notice we saw stuck up amused me very much. Everything being so very different in England of this kind of thing.

1 June – Saturday

Glorious First. Cecil Willoughby and I went out to the Waterfall, taking books with us and caviare. After a delicious bathe we got screens round us, read and slept – Much of the latter to little of the former. Walked back and got back in time for dinner.

7 June – Friday

Stewart (mid.) and I went up in the skiff to Pappenberg Island, and landed the opposite side of the Commander’s party. We soon had a large fire under way and cocoa boiling. Had a most delicious bathe. Three Jappers coming round the corner would not go away but stood admiring us, so we had to run the cynosure of their gaze, drying ourselves, dressing as soon as we could. Got back to dinner, Stewart dining with me.

Heard by telegram this week of the loss of the German Ironclad Grosser Kurfürst with 300 men off Dover.

8 June – Saturday

Two letters from Russell taking a month coming up from Hong Kong. He is doing very well out in Australia on the Chirnside’s Estate. Willoughby and I started off for the Waterfall and got there at 12 o’c. We never had experienced such intense heat. Although we had umbrellas and helmets we felt it very much, and we were in a mortal funk of getting knocked. We soon plunged into the water and luxuriated in the water and laid down in the tea-house lightly clad, when Sandilands appeared on the scene and said he never saw such a disgraceful sight. However, he soon joined us and then after a smoke, we had another bathe and started back still very hot.

Willoughby said he knew of a way four miles shorter. It turned out to be longer and more hilly and we were quite exhausted on getting to the top, and very glad to get into jin-ricks at the end of the valley, after descending the hill. We got on board by 6 o’c and had a bathe and then dressed for Tomioka’s dinner, the Japanese Mid. on board.

I fancy he is likely to be soon leaving the ship and the Japanese Authorities thought it was the proper thing for him to give a feed, and provided the funds, the dinner being given ostensibly by him. He asked all the W.R. and G.R. and engineers. It was given in the Cent Gardens in a large tea-house there, about 30 of us went. The only other Japanese present being the Governor of Nagasaki.

It was given European fashion and very well done. A capital dinner and the waiting was very good, there being only three men, the rest being Musimes, very prettily rigged. They looked like so many butterflies flitting round you and waited capitally. They looked such dear little things and very modest too.

After dinner, at 10 o’c the Shamisen girls came in to the room, about a dozen of them. We made a kind of semi-circle, smoked and the dancing began. Only about half danced, girls of from 14 to 20 and most prettily rigged, the dresses being most gorgeous and must be very costly. The obi (or band) had splendid [bow] made up behind, and their hair done up very well and adorned with flowers. The elder ones did not dance and were dressed much more quietly. They all had instruments, the two having drums in the shape of a sand glass.

First they all struck up a tune and singing, or chanting at the same time, and one of the dancing girls came out and danced, or rather posed herself in different attitudes to the tune of the music. There is no dancing in the European sense of the word, in fact they could not do so, their dresses being heavy and coming to the ground. The first one was evidently the swell gazer (or dancer) who played with a fan and umbrella (Japanese). Then she put on a mask and imitated an old man and did all kinds of pools [?]. Then several others followed and then they did it together, music and chanting going on the same time, the dancers joining in the songs at times. Some wee little things about 10 danced too.

After each dance was done, each dancing girl went and did shinjo to the older ones who had been playing for them. I never saw such a pretty sight in all my life as this dance. It goes on for hours and there need not be anything indecent about it. There is no exposing of the person.

At eleven a lot of us left and came on board. I brought young B-----g, a Master Jap. These girls are quite moral girls (Japanese morality). We had several toasts at dinner. The Queen of England and the Mikado, then the Governor of Nagasaki and then John’s health. It was altogether a most successful evening.

16 June – Sunday

The last week, nothing noteworthy happened saving that on Wednesday morning we went out for Target practice, coming in again about 6 o’c and mooring.

Heard on Friday evening from Father. What with Grannie, Francie and Edith being seedy and a party of 25 officers that evening, seems to have his hands full. Baldie at School, a very good thing for the little man.

Yesterday Goodrich and I went out in the skiff and had lunch at entrance of harbour, ashore in a quite little nook. Going on the Pappenberg for a bathe, afterwards went to the top of Pappenberg and saw the place where the Christians were thrown over on to the Rocks.

20 June – Thursday

Accession Day. Saluting. Admiral giving a big dinner; 6 or 7 national Anthems played. I dined in G.R. with Stewart.

22 June – Saturday

Walked out with Willoughby to the Maiden’s Dell and had a most delicious bathe, and then walked back over Venus hill, the spot the American party took their observation from.

Garbett and I busy copying out Tables from the German Gunnery Book lent me by Muchall, Lieut of Albatross. The Lieut-Captain Rotger is a very good fellow too. Muchall came and smoked last night and listened to the Band.

27 June – Thursday

Just turned in last night and listening to a mosquito buzzing round my head, when I heard a row on deck. Turning out, found it was a fire on shore making a good blaze. Volunteered to go. In about 15 to 20 minutes we had a large party ashore with Tomahawks, Grapnels, Mining Charges etc. but had hardly got on the Bund, when we found that it had been got under, so we halted and bivouacked on the Bund for ½ an hour, smoking and at 1.30 returned on board. The Jappers have a very good Fire Brigade at this place.

Captain asked me to go out to Tako Sima in Stbd Pinnace, a party being made up of some ladies etc. Mrs Aldrich, Martin and Howe were the ladies; Aldrich, Cochrane, Paul Martin (the Manager of Coal Mine), Knox and Stewart completed the party.

We left at 10.30 am and got out to Tako Sima at 11.30, and landed. We had to go through a lot of Jappers who were washing themselves in a state of nature. They did not mind in the least. Some scores of them.

The Mine belongs to Jardine and Matheson, but as foreigners are not allowed to work mines, it is worked in the name of Mr Corto, an ex-Daimyo (Prince Corto). There are some 5,000 workmen employed in different ways on the Island. The output is 600 tons per diem. There are several seams. The best is 18 feet in depth. I did not know before today that all seams follow the same contour, just like the plan of lines of fortification or sandwiches out of shape, the meat being the coal.

The Jappers work in 3 shifts of 8 hours each, some above ground work 2 shifts of 12 hours each. They earn about 20 cents a day and cut about a ton in the 8 hours. They require a great deal of looking after, being very careless and lazy. There are some 50 miles of cuttings and headings. Ventilation is made by means of a revolving fan sucking air up the upshaft. As the barometer falls the revolutions are increased because the less pressure on the coal allows more fire damp to get out.

12 Europeans on the Island. Mr Martin is the Manager and gets £2,000 a year and I should say his billet and the Europeans is no sinecure.

In going through the village, both sexes were tubbing most promiscuously and publicly. One felt glad only married ladies were of the party. We tiffined at Martin’s Bungalow and started back again at 5 o’c running the gauntlet with the ladies thro’ a crowd of our stark naked friends, who had not the decency to put a clout in front.

Tea on the way back and got to the ship at 6.30 o’c. Felt my stomach and I were on good terms, so being camel night I took up savings for my dinner and went ashore for a hard walk through the town. Tried a little bargaining for curios.

Came off at 9 o’c and heard the sad news of Goodlake’s death at Hong Kong. Gun Lieut of Shannon and left behind in Hospital. Poor fellow, my lot, the second death out of the 13. He leaves a young wife to mourn his loss.

30 June – Sunday

Last night at 9.30 pm a Lieut Charter of Shannon turned up on board, and reported that his ship had anchored some two to three miles off the mouth of the Harbour. That she was going 9 knots when suddenly the pin of the eccentric strap went and eccentric shaft bent and engines stopped dead; so there being no wind she anchored outside.

I volunteered to go out to her as the Admiral wanted a Lieut to go out. We started at 11.30 pm towing the Shannon back and at 1 o’clock we got alongside. Found Captain Grant turned in, but he soon turned out and shook hands. After a good brew of cocoa I started back and got back to ship at 4 o’c, meeting the Magpie going out and doing her best to run a junk down. This morning the Shannon appeared, in tow of Magpie, rather a sorry entrance for a big xxx towed by a bug trap. She is certainly a most ugly ship. My chum Holbech lunched aboard.

5 July – Friday

Took Holbech out shopping.

6 July – Saturday

Went out with Holbech to Maidan’s Dell. I killed a snake 5 feet 6 in. long.

7 July – Sunday

Walked out with Clarke to the top of Venus Hill. Coming back saw a Venus in the tub washing herself, quite publicly.

8 July – Monday

Went aboard Shannon. Had a fence with McKechnie and dined with him.

9 July – Tuesday

Dined with Captain Hotham of Charybdis.

10 July – Wednesday

Dined quietly with Muchall on board the Albatross, Rotger being there. Muchall played the Zither after dinner.

11 July – Thursday

Holbech dined with me quietly, McKechnie being out of sorts, having had a row with Grant.

16 July – Tuesday

Went out in the Shannon for the day. She going out to try her engines and do Prize Firing. We leave on Friday for Yokohama. Heard by telegram of the Iron Duke being brought forward at once for our relief and also heard that peace was assured, the amended Treaty being agreed to by All Hands.

18 July – Thursday

Muchall dined with me and after dinner played the Zither; did not play it badly.

DEPART NAGASAKI

19 July – Friday

Unmoored and proceeded out of harbour this morning at 10 am. Barometer falling slightly and strong breeze from Southward.

20 July – Saturday

Prize Firing all forenoon. Proceeded through the Shimonoseki Straits at 4 pm.

21 July – Sunday

Steaming all day through the Inland Sea. We came through the North Channel of the Middle group of Islands, past Mihara. We took about three hours and a half, going through, steaming 7 knots. It was like going from one small lake to another, as soon as you left one and got into another, you lost sight of entrance and appeared to be steaming right into land, until you got close up and then suddenly an opening would show itself, and so it went on.

At 4 o’c we entered the second group of islands, and are now well through, but as, if we went on, we should be at Kobe in the Middle watch, we have come to an anchor off a very picturesque little village on an island.

On the whole, I can’t say the actual scenery of the Inland Sea is very pretty, but it is quite unique of its kind, its thousands of Islands, winding passages, many villages and large towns and countless Junks and Boats.

ARRIVE KOBE

22 July – Monday

Arrived at Kobe this afternoon at 1.30 pm and tomorrow I start off for Kyoto the ancient capital, with a couple of other fellows, and return Wednesday night.

26 July – Friday

On Tuesday morning after a substantial breakfast on board, Stewart Bourke and I started in a Sampan for the shore, taking our luncheon with us. At 9.40 am we left Kobe in the train, travelling 2nd Class. Browning accompanied us. Of course Webb came to the Station two minutes before the train started and had forgotten to go to the Consulate to get his passport, so he could not get his ticket.

Skirting round Osaka Bay, we arrived at Osaka after an hour’s journey and finding we had to wait an hour and a half for the Kyoto train, we determined to take a drive into Osaka in a Jinriksha. But we did not get away until we had given up our tickets, which we were very loath to do, as the Jappers could not speak English and our Japanese was very limited.

We galloped into Osaka, careered through the streets, stopping at some curio shops. We found everything very dear excepting bronzes. I tried to secure an ivory jinrik with a man in the shafts and a lady in the seat for $10 but could not get the man under $13.

Back to the station, managed to get our tickets back again and had lunch in the waiting room. The Kyoto train soon rolled in containing the Admiral, Captain and Webb and seating ourselves in it, off we started for Kyoto, some 35 miles off Osaka.

Kyoto lies at the head of a long vale, high ranges of hills either side and forming a cul-de-sac, the hills each side being in fact nearly a continuation of the coast line of the Bay of Osaka and meeting just beyond Kyoto.

The whole of this large plain is almost entirely grown with rice (being grown in the usual small paddy fields) and the irrigation is very well carried out. Where the paddy fields are removed from any river or stream, they have a reservoir for water in one corner close to the p--tub, and each is baled out by means of the contrivance rigged up in nearly every paddy field, a pole with a cross pole slung in the middle, and a stone on one end, a lever of the first kind.

Passed a great number of storks and paddy birds, the latter are something like storks but have not the long neck and wings are grey.

At 2.30 we arrived at Kyoto and were soon in jinrikshas with two men, tandem fashion, one in the shafts, the other with a strap over his shoulder and cord fast to the shafts. We all happened to be going to the same Hotel Hakamariya, the best in Kyoto, close to the Gion Temple, and it was most comical to see our procession set off, the Admiral loading and then Captain and followed by 6 more jinriks. I had a most comical leader, he pranced and capered about most ridiculously. Arrived at the Hotel. We disburdened ourselves of our gear.

The Hotel is Japanese, rooms being formed of sliding panels and screens etc. in room. Beds are put up for Europeans and you dine European fashion. Stewart and I went out for a cruise round the curio ships and we bought 40 odd fans for 10 cents a-piece. It was most fortunate for us, our hitting off this particular time for our visit, for we found Kyoto en fête on account of a feast to the God A---, one of their old Generals deified.

The Authorities had taken it in hand. The streets were lined with lanterns, nearly every street in the town had them. About every 15 feet apart, each side of the street, a pole with a cross piece was stuck up and a large Japanese paper lantern suspended, and over these in the principal streets, Japanese umbrellas were spread.

Even before they were lit up, the effect was very pretty so it can be imagined how very pretty and picturesque it looked at night-time, especially as each lantern had some coloured device on it. The city was crowded and one was struck at seeing how orderly every one was, no shoving or rowdies about, no drinking etc. They were like a lot of angels compared to an English crowd.

Through Kyoto flows a broad river, some 5 to 600 yards in breadth, and at this time of the year it is shallow, averaging some 12 inches in depth and numerous dry spots in the middle and about it. Well, just about the centre of the town, the whole river was covered with small tables, covered with matting and placed on trestles, so as to raise them a few inches above the running water. At each table was a large paper lantern and parties of two, three or more would take a table, squat on it and with a small charcoal stove have their chow and smoke. Boards on trestles enabled you to walk along and between these tables. At the dry spots race-courses had been improvised one of them at least 300 yards round and flaming beacons stuck up round them.

The people began their chow at 5 o’c about and it was kept up until nearly midnight and the effect of these thousands of lanterns and their light reflected on the running water, appearing every now and then, was most unique.

The multitudes of people moving about in the streets and on the river, the Joss Houses lit up, streets illuminated and the pretty little Musimes in their picturesque dress got up to kill, made it a sight not to be missed and but rarely to be seen. The perfect good humour and thorough enjoyment of those present shown, was quite and only Japanese.

Some streets contained attractions in the shape of the Theatres, Performing Dogs, and Monkeys, conjuring performances and sleights of hand, of which some were very good and some poor.

At 11.30 the lights began to go out and at 12 o’c nearly everyone had gone home, and after a thorough inspection under my mosquito curtain, I went off to sleep too, having a very good bed and nice little room, although one of my partitions would not slide quite close to, but it does not matter very much for everything is paper, excepting the four walls of the house, which are bamboos interlaced, filled in with mud and plastered over.

Next morning I got up at 6 o’c and went up to see the Gion Temple, a very large Shinto Temple. The bell is always contained in a separate house and hit by a suspended beam. This one is very large and has a very fine sound. It stands some 14 feet high and the outer circumference of lip is about 28 feet, the depth of lip being about 8 inches.

Breakfasted, failed to get Bourke up, lying half naked exposed to the public view, and at 8.30 the Captain, Stewart and I started off in jinriks drawn by two men for Sanda, some 12 miles out, over the range of hills.

We dashed through the town and in the suburbs were going at a spanking pace, when suddenly I found myself shot out of jinrik and lying on the ground. The axle had broken off.

After waiting a quarter of an hour, we got another jinrik and off we went again, running partly along the foot of the hills and partly ascending, but soon we began to breast the hills and we had to get out and walk for about an hour and very hot it was.

Arrived at the top, into our jinriks, and a short way down we stopped for the men to eat their chow, consisting of an enormous amount of rice and some marrow (vegetable). We went in for some tea and rice. A most lively young Musime attended us, ready for anything.

Another hour and a half’s drive through a plain brought us to the banks of the river which we were to descend. We saw a great quantity of rice and tobacco grown, every foot of ground was cultivated. We crossed the river about 60 yards broad and flowing very swiftly and up at a Japper’s House bargained for one of their cargo boats to take us down the river for $3, jinriks and all.

We lunched and then embarked in a boat, some 40 feet long, flat bottomed, drawing about 3 inches of water, sides slightly shelving out and rising about 3 to 4 feet. One man in stern steering by a long oar. Another on port bow with short oar and a fellow on starboard side with pole.

Having embarked our jinriks etc. off we started, gliding along 4 to 5 miles an hour, the river running here through the plain. Soon we entered a gorge through which the river ran for some 12 miles or more, winding about through the range of hills we had crossed and most of it rapids. Sometimes we rushed past at 12 knots an hour, the water curdling up and seething round us. You saw yourself dashing straight at a rock, being steered for it and just before you touched it, the water running off it, whisked your bow off it. The men steered the boat very well, grazing the rocks and as you dashed by and going over sunken rocks, just clear of our bottom. It was very fine going along and enjoying the finest scenery in Japan at the same time. Our bottom at first, made us wonder if it was going to tumble out. It went up and down like a spring board and is purposely meant to be very flexible, in case of touching and also in going thro’ the rapids, it gives to the force of water underneath.

The scenery was changing every minute. Generally the hills were formed 4 to 800 feet high and thickly clothed with underwood. Stream, averaging about 40 to 60 yards broad, sometimes narrowing to a few feet, where the finest rapids were; average depth about 5 feet. It was very pretty scenery and at times very fine, entering some of the gorges and sometimes two gorges with rivers flowing thro’ them meeting, and picturesque tea-houses perched up on the sides of the hills.

We passed several boats being tracked back and a great number of Jappers fishing with a rod, with a 4 oz fish at the end of one hook to act as decoy, an empty hook being reserved for the guest. Unwillingly, we saw ourselves getting through the hills and entering the plain, running down from Kyoto to the Sea. Landed and jinriked back to Kyoto and our Hotel, rubbed, dined and then we were called to the front of the hotel by a Japper waiter and we saw the return of the procession to the Temple close to our Hotel.

It had been perambulating the streets all day. First came men in armour, then musicians playing a musical, but mournful, dirge boys carrying lanterns each side of them. Then a lady of our friends, the jinriksha men, dancing and jumping about, fanning each other and shouting together in unison.

Then, came the pavilion containing ... [?] very like a miniature Temple, all covered with hanging metal ornaments and it was carried by about 60 men, who held it up in their hands and kept jumping at the same time and shouting. It was a curious sight to see this affair being jumped. Then followed articles of furniture carried by men and then came the local official swells and here one’s sense of the ridiculous was keenly touched.

Old and New Japan, (I must say all carried Japanese lanterns, besides being escorted each side by boys and men carrying lanterns suspended from poles). Old Japan in their classical robes. New Japan, some in swallow tails, tall hats, white vests and gloves. Some minus the second, some the third and some wearing the national girdle over the pair of badly fitting breeks, all looking like badly dressed monkeys.

Arrived at the Temple, a lot of jumping, cheering etc. the ... [?] was landed and the same process went on twice again, with two more of these.

Bourke created no small stir amongst the populace, he being tall and big. A lot of Jappers policemen followed him about behind and Capt. D--- and I saw them measuring themselves up against him, they came up to his arm-pits and waist.

From the Temple we migrated down to the River and knocked about there some time. Stewart, Bourke, and I had some riding on the race-course, in the middle of river, much to the amusement of the Jappers.

Next day we started for Osaka. Arrived there we made a tour of the City, the Japanese Venice, it being interlaced with canals and rivers. We did the Fort, a very massive affair, and very strong and ancient and back to the ship.

DEPART KOBE

27 July – Saturday

Started for Yokohama.

ARRIVE YOKOHAMA

28 July – Sunday

Arrived at Yokohama, found here a large number of vessels, English and Foreign.

29 July – Monday

Went ashore, bought some ... [?] cabinet.

3 August – Saturday

Went up to Yedo and called at the Legation. Lunched with Sir Harry Parkes and then hired a jinrik for 50 cents to drag me about from 2 o’clock to 7 o’clock. First, I went to the Mikado’s Park, it being really the old Fort of the Tycoon. It is very prettily laid out with fine trees and picturesque lakes. Then after some time, we got out of the region of Forts and Barracks and the Official Quarter and paid a visit to another very pretty Park, Ueno’s, and had a very good view of the city which is immense. Like a huge village, trees growing up everywhere, as nearly every Japanese House has its little garden and tree behind.

To Asakusa. Saw the Fair going on and fed the Pigeons and then to the best Japanese Theatre, capable of seating some 1500 people (Japper fashion). The play was an historical one.

Back to Legation and had a very interesting tête-à-tête dinner with Sir Harry Parkes. Lady P. being in the country. He gave me a lot of information about the country etc. Came down by the late train.

6 August – Tuesday

Mail came in Sunday. Was distressed to hear of dear Meta’s very nearly fatal illness, but glad to hear of her being better.

Russian ships left this morning. Vsadnik homeward bound. Cheered her, then returned.

11 August – Sunday

Went up yesterday with Stewart to Yedo and cruised about the town all day by the aid of a map. Went to Asakusa and saw some very good figures. As far as I could make out, made from some kind of plaster. Infinitely better than Madame Tussauds, being very lifelike, so much so, that you could not tell the difference between a living Japper and a model. There were some 20 groups, all in different attitudes etc. Dined at the Club.

14 August – Wednesday

28My 28th birthday, and thank God enjoying the best of health.

16 August – Friday

This afternoon, Sir Harry Parkes, accompanied by the Chinese Ambassadors, came on board, one a blue-buttoned mandarin with tail and the other a red-buttoned fellow with tail and some smaller fry. We exercised at General Quarters for their behalf. They seemed much struck at the way the guns were worked. They had intelligent faces and seemed sharp sort of fellows.

Dined with the Admiral, a large dinner, Sir Harry being there. Two Yankees, General Van Burn and Coles of Monocacy tried to outdo each other in wonderful yarns.

17 August – Saturday

Land and Hurlstone of Magpie and I started off at 10 o’clock in jinriks for the large image of Daibutsu. Dupuis of Frolic was to have joined us but he did not turn up. We hired jinriks for $1½ for two men to take us there and back, with 25 cents more if they pulled us well, the roads being very heavy owing to the last night’s rains. We went the shortest route, via Kamakura, and took 4 hours going out.

Near Kamakura, stood the ancient capital of the Shoguns and at Kamakura stands a good sized Temple (Shinto) containing relics of different Shoguns, some very large swords and of great age. A curious stone, stands under a tree and is visited by men and women who are desirous of getting families. It is curiously carved and used.

The large image of Daibutsu is about a mile further on, in a small village close to the sea. It represents Bhudda in the usual sitting attitude and from base to crown is 66 feet. I measured the nail of his thumb and it is 7 inches long. Inside these is a very large space, the figure being quite hollow. In fact, it is a bronze casting, the several pieces being soldered together and the core taken out. It was very warm inside, the sun beating on the metal, which at some parts is very thick. It evidently once stood in a Temple as the foundation stones stand all round. Close by in a Temple in a dark room stands a large wooden figure, about 30 – 40 feet high, gold lacquered and when lights are hoisted up to show you the Figure, the effect is very marked.

We drove back in our jinriks in 3½ hours, having lunched at Daibutsu in a large Tea-house. Musime very considerately, on my pointing out a hole in stocking, knuckled down and soon stopped it up. Our jinrik men were most lively, joking and skylarking the whole way there and back. As soon as they got into country, they stripped to a gantline. Some of them were very well marked with tattooing. We got back at 8 o’clock and gave the men $2 for the pair of men for which they were most grateful. They ran us nearly the whole of the 36 miles. James, who accompanied us back from Daibutsu, riding, came on board with me.

19 August – Monday

Started off by the 7 o’c train, with Robinson, portmanteau in hand for Yedo. Got up at 8 o’c and jinriked at once over to the Gun Factory. Was met by a Captain of Artillery and an Aide-de-Camp of the War Minister, who showed us over the grounds and workshops. The grounds originally belonged to Prince Mito and some parts of them are still laid out in gardens and walks.

Some 3,000 workmen are employed. The conversion of Enfield Rifles to Breechloaders, on Sinders and Arinmus principle being the chief work. They convert some 70 a day, at an average cost of $3 30 cts. Plenty of plant and very good machinery, nearly all of it either English or French. I did not see any rifle bands being made, but I don’t doubt that could be done readily enough if required. I saw some shell being prepared (or the moulds I should say) for casting, but the very large shells and guns are made at Osaka. They made some very nice 32 Pdr rifled Bronze Guns at Kagoshima.

After looking round the work-shops we went to a very pleasant little pleasure house and had some refreshments and then looked over the gardens, which are very nicely laid out.

Lunching at the Legation, we then paid a visit to the naval School, a very large place. Met Mr Kitchener there and had a good look round. It has the makings of a very fine place. The cadets are very smart. Work the heavy guns as well as any Gunner, and the wire roping better than any Ldg Seaman in our service. A magnificent full sized model of a line of battle ships, completely equipped.

A look at the Taxi Oki Odima [?] about 70 feet high. Went inside, saw the Babe in the Wood, put my feet through the nostrils and head through the eye.

Dined at Seiyoken, and back by last train to ship.

Letter from Father.

20 August – Tuesday

Japanese Ministers visited the ship. Went to General Quarters and fired some torpedoes off etc. for their edification.

22 August – Thursday

Went with Captain in steam Pinnace to Yokosuka, Took 2 hours going the 11 miles, against wind and sea. Roused up Mr Sutton with his charming little daughter, had tea and a visit over the dockyard. Very nice little dockyard. Excepting the making of armour plates, I don’t see why they should not turn out everything for a modern man of war. Introduced Admiral Eto, blown up in the Civil War. 1600 men employed.

23 August – Friday

Went ashore and had a yarn with Lady Parkes. Met Mr Johnston who knew my father in China.

25 August – Sunday

Dear Francie’s 18th birthday.

We were to have gone to Hakodate yesterday, but an émeute broke out amongst the troops of the Imperial Guard, who broke out of barracks and fired indiscriminately about the place. More pay being the battle cry. Promises as usual were made. Now all is quiet again and we leave tomorrow morning.

DEPART YOKOHAMA

26 August – Monday

Left this morning. Magpie in company, for Hakodate.

30 August – Friday

Fired at target this morning and anchored off Hakodate about 4 pm. The Town is situated at the foot of a clump of hills, that resemble Portland Bill and Rock of Gibraltar rolled into one –being connected by a broad strip of sandy ground to the mainland. Exports largely seaweed and salt fish.

ARRIVE HAKODATE

31 August – Saturday

Richards, Robinson and myself went ashore. Had a look at the curio ships and took our luncheon out to a very pretty tea House with gardens and water nicely laid out around. Strolled about and back to the Town. I invested in a What-Not, gave $5½ for it, and then took a look over the Pentagonal Fort. Guns mounted en barbette, traverses between [?], 10 guns, 4 of 9 inch, 6 of 6 inch smooth bore, bronze guns of Japanese manufacture. One Magazine close under sea front. Bomb proof entrances protected by traverses. 5 guns on the two seaward faces, respectively.

4 September – Wednesday

Yesterday morning, the Captain and I started off on ponies for the Lakes, some 18 miles out and got out there at 3 o’clock, going out at an amble nearly all the way. We took a man and pack horse with us. The road is undergoing a thorough renovation and in time will be a very fine road. Trees being planted about 5 yards apart all the way out and the road will be macadamized in the centre. At present, most of the way, great square heaps of earth and stone lie in the middle of the road and you are obliged to go along at the side by a footpath. Our horses were very much troubled with large flies that drew blood and were most determined in their attacks. About 12 miles along the road we entered the Pass, and reaching the top, 900 feet, had a very fine view of the plain, running down to the sea and the Rock of Hakodate, which very much resembled Gibraltar.

We soon got to the Inn and unloaded our horses, and went out on the Lake to try our hands at fishing, getting a canoe dug out of the trunk of a tree, but got the most rude kind of oar, no paddles being procurable. The consequence was, that on getting into the middle of the lake and a slight breeze coming on, the canoe, notwithstanding our utmost efforts, went spinning round and round like a top, and we had to let her drift to the lee-side of the lake and get out, our fishing coming to a premature close. Not much lost, as the fish to be caught are of the smallest kind imaginable

Went for a walk, but found the mosquitoes too much for us, so returned to the Lake, had a bathe and returned to the Tea-House, made ourselves a very good dinner and smoking, turned in, sprinkling the room all over with camphor and rubbing insect powder into our hands, face etc.

Had a very disturbed night, what with cocks crowing, children crying, hens cackling, Jappers snoring and smoking and the women talking.

4 September – Wednesday

Bathed in the lake before breakfast, and at 10 o’c took to horse and with our baggage went across the hills to the big lake, skirted round the edge, through the woods, much bothered with mosquitoes and horse flies, which much took away from the pleasure, and eventually got back to Hakodate at 4 pm.

6 September – Friday

Went out in boats and beat to Ammunition.

7 September – Saturday

Robinson, James and I took our guns and went out shooting for the day, going over both marshes. We did not see very much, as both had been done that day and the day before, by Willoughby, Pike and Pearce, who got over 30 couple of snipe, some duck and quail pigeon.

8 September – Sunday

Mail expected. Took the Communion, after returning with the Roman Catholics.

DEPART HAKODATE

10 September – Tuesday

Left for Vladivostock.

11 September – Wednesday

Blowing half a gale against us. Ship very steady, pitches somewhat. Volunteered to keep 4 to 6 watch at sea. Granted.

ARRIVE VLADIVOSTOCK

13 September – Friday

Entered Vladivostock Harbour in company with Magpie this afternoon. Willoughby and I stationed in the Pilot Tower, by Admiral. Took notes of Guns, Fortifications etc. but I made more “Ticker” by stationing Hunter up at Topmast Head, instead of Mast Head Man and he brought me down very full information. Counted 16 guns in all. Castle’s plan not over correct.

The Harbour is a very fine one, capacious enough to hold several large fleets and very well sheltered. The easiest way to get at any shipping or bombard stores, would be to remain outside, go round Point by South Channel and throw shells over, getting the Aim from Mast Head.

14 September – Saturday

Out with Willoughby and Pike to the 1st River, some three short miles out. We took our guns and worked all the way down, putting up snipe and a duck or two, securing a few snipe. Lunched at a small Russian Brewery and afterwards went out and did the marshes, putting up a large number of snipe and in the Cover adjoining, a fair amount of pheasant.

Brought a fair bag back with us, Willoughby contributing the lion’s share. A dog is invaluable, more especially in getting the pheasants up, they lie so close.

15 September – Sunday

Remained on board. Most delightful weather.

16 September – Monday

This morning at 5 o’c a large party of us; ten Mids, Goodrich, Pearce and I, started off, after an early breakfast at 4,30. A very merry party in the cutter for the Island at the entrance of the Harbour, all taking guns, which included an assortment of every kind, Central Fire, Pin Fire, 12 Bore, 16 Bore, muzzle Loading Single Barrel, Double Barrel etc. A slashing breeze took us along and we arrived at the place we intended, some 7 miles off ship, a little after 7 o’clock.

Landed our grub and very soon the 13 of us marshalled ourselves in line, after firing an odd shot or so at the few snipe we had disturbed by our early arrival. A very few minutes after entering the wood a deer was started and ran thro’ the line. An indiscriminate, inept firing took place all round. I believe I was nearly shot at, my white solar hat saving me from being mistaken for the deer. At any rate he got off.

We had hardly got another 100 yards up the hill when a fine Buck got up and ran half the length of the line, through the very thick brushwood. Bang, bang, bang, etc. etc. etc. 7 double barrelled guns were fired at the frightened animal. He actually stopped and looked at Bourke for 5 seconds, but the melting look in his eyes took Bourke’s courage away and he could not let drive, until the animal was off showing his stern. I think the deer must have had a sore or two, but at any rate he got off, not very much the worse for the Fusillade. There was much laughter as we listened to one gun after another going off.

After working thro’ the wood for about 1½ hours we got to a small swamp and there the fun began. Our line had got somewhat broken by this time. 7 Mids. were in the marsh. Goodrich and I on top of Hill. Suddenly a snipe was put up, four guns were discharged, some double-barrelled. Snipe gave a wild swoop and got clear, all down in swamp. Back came snipe and settled about 100 yards off. Came along the Mids, stalking him up, got snipe. Off went four guns and three more guns on the outskirts and snipey gave a dart and off he got clear this time.

Bourke, Pearce and someone else hearing the fusillade, suddenly appeared over the brow of hill, running as hard as possible, imagining some hot corner for pheasants had been discovered. The whole scene was so comical I sat down and split my sides with laughter, everyone else at last doing the same.

The rest of the forenoon we stalked, all over the country. Could not get the birds to rise at all tho’ there were a lot pheasants about. We sadly wanted a dog or two.

At 4 o’clock we all collected and had a good square meal, soup, game pies etc. Vegetables being found by a Manchurian there and splendid ones they were. After dinner and a smoke the non lazy ones got up and started off again. The lazy ones reclining in the arms of Morpheus a few minutes longer.

Webb, Tip Stewart and I went off together and soon started a deer, but not near enough for a good shot. A Russian pug dog cruising about, put up a fine hen pheasant which I shot, not 15 yards off, flying past me. My shot broke both his wings and brought him down, dead as a herring. The remainder of the afternoon, I saw nothing, although thick underwood most of the time, you could not get the pheasants up at all.

Stewart left us at 3 o’c done up. Webb and I got back just before sunset and found Stewart had not turned up. Much shouting firing guns and a search party was just being instituted when Pearce firing at a woodcock, just escaped hitting Stewart who turned round the corner at that moment.

A regular good feed, the G Room being food caterers and at 7 o’c our bag being 3 pheasants and a few snipe. We started back, pulling, there being a light breeze against us, but after a short time, sail was made and we got alongside soon after 12 o’c, songs being the order of the day the whole way back. I never heard such a variety and sung in so many songs.

Altogether we had a most jovial day and we all enjoyed ourselves very much indeed.

17 September – Tuesday

Employed the whole afternoon, having a look at the Russian Batteries, for the best place for attacking shipping and stores. Had much difficulty in getting what I required owing to the number of officers and men about.

I thought I had left the nude behind in Japan, but going along the Road, a woman (Russian) came down and stripped herself and bathed before a lot of men at work and remained a long time besporting herself in water, not a bit abashed by the male population around.

Had a big dinner on board this night, the ladies and Russians dining with Admiral. The Governor is away on his tour of inspection. His wife and sister in law (all being Germans) remained behind.

Mrs Governor told Core she tried hard to get a woman for nurse who was not a murderess, but could not succeed. All the women are the worst female criminals in the country. The men are sent to Sakhalin to work in the mines and get dreadfully treated by those over them. The men at Vladivostock are not the worst of their kind. One fellow came up to the doctor and told him he was a Pole and expatriated for some rising.

The Harbour is a very fine harbour, capable of holding several Fleets, well protected from all winds. Its fortifications are not up to very much, but could easily be made. I spent all the afternoon having a quiet look at them from the tops of hills etc and sent in report to Admiral and a very easy and feasible plan of shelling stores and shipping, pretty well secured from the fire of the present batteries.

DEPART VLADIVOSTOCK
ARRIVE NAGASAKI

24 September – Tuesday

Arrived here Sunday 8 pm, receiving mails on coming in. Heard from Father and Francie and also that my Gunnery Pay for time of travelling had to be refunded.

We had a very strong blow against us Friday and Saturday, then suddenly the wind chopped right round to the Northward and blew quite as strong in that direction. We shored on all sail and got 9 knots out of her, steam and sail. Found that on the 12th they had the fag end of a typhoon at this place.

Paid PPC calls to the Russian and German ships this morning, in company with Goodrich (Vsadnik and Albatross).

DEPART NAGASAKI

26 September – Thursday

Admiral left in Vigilant for Shanghai. Magpie and ourselves for Hong-Kong. Captain dining with us this evening.

3 October – Thursday

A fine passage down, carrying the monsoon down with us through the Formosa Channel. Had a full speed trial and target practice coming down. Averaged 9·5 kn by Patent Log and 10·5 kn by Log. At Hong Kong we found a French Mail and that our English Mail had gone on to Shanghai.

ARRIVE HONG KONG

4 October – Friday

Coaled ship. English mail coming in, brought me a letter from home. All well and a good deal of gaiety with Meta and Francie at home, going on at Sheerness.

Dined with Harry Kelham at 74th mess, a very good dinner. They all seem a young lot of fellows. Purchased a lot of silk to give away at home. Paid a visit to the Battery erected at the North Point. 5 guns, 7 inch BLR, a very nice little battery.

6 October – Sunday

Holy Communion. Topping sowing mischief again between Executive and Non Executives – failed – I don’t think he means to do it but he is quite mad on that point. Went ashore to afternoon service and heard Mr Henderson preach.

7 October – Monday

An indignation meeting called by Reary and 63 others was held in the City Hall this afternoon. Some few days ago a party of about 100 pirates came to Hong Kong at night time, seized a steam launch, got up steam, posted sentries all round and attacked a Chinese Jeweller’s house and were at work about an hour before being discovered.

They made a fight for it and gave some very nasty wounds, being armed with fire-arms and spears about 20 feet long, and the Police at first only had their staves. After a good fight, they retreated leaving one dead, but carrying their wounded off and got away in the steam launch.

A most daring and skilfully laid plan, and for some time past and particularly lately burglaries by parties of 8 to 10 have been very frequent, so that it really is not safe to go out after dark without a revolver. The Brigade Major, the other night at the 74th dinner, rather startled me by coming well armed.

A great deal of this is owing to the Humanitarian Policy of Pope-Hennessy who would scarcely hang a man convicted of murder and almost abolished flogging and let the law about every Chinaman carrying a lantern and pass fall into disrepute, but now they are being enforced again. P-H does not bear a very good character, endeavouring to force the regular people out of billets and putting Popish Portuguese in their place.

The Indignation Meeting is to protest against present lawlessness and insecurity of place, after so many years of safety and quietness. The Meeting adjourned to the Cricket Ground, the Governor’s Party having packed the Hall with Chinese. Very strong resolutions were unanimously passed, there being only two of the Governor’s nominees to oppose. Every trading merchant of every race, all joined in, declaring the state of things was unbearable and condemning the Governor’s conduct.

10 October – Thursday

Harry Kelham dined with me.

11 October – Friday

Admiral came in with his Flag at the Main of Vigilant. He had some rough weather coming down.

A typhoon passed to the Southward of the Island, beginning of week. We only got the northern extreme of it, but found it advisable to strike Lower Yards and Topmasts and get up steam. One steamer outside passed a hundred dismasted junks and any amount of wreckage.

17 October – Thursday

Came back from Canton yesterday, whither Stewart and I had been paying a visit. We left on Monday. The first thing I saw on going into the saloon of the Kin Kiang, was an arm-rack intended for the use of the passengers, or rather I should say the rifles and pistols placed in the rack; and a notice informing you the arms were loaded and it appears that the Chinese on board cannot be trusted.

These steamers carry between 1 & 2,000 [?] each trip, and it was only 4 years ago, the Chinese rose and murdered all the Europeans and then plundered the vessel. Now they are locked in on the lower deck.

At 8 o’c we started and soon passed through the Cap-sing-Mun pass and past Castle Peak and Pirate Bay, the latter Bay well deserving of its name. Past the Bogue Forts, the old ones much the same as they were 20 years ago, and one or two new Water Batteries. Past Tiger Island, up the Rino [?], and then up to Whampoa, the Docks with all but one exception, being in ruins. As one went through the Reach, the thoughts of the splendid Fleet of Indiamen riding in these waters, passed through one’s mind. At one o’clock past the Barrier Forts, now in ruins.

The Junks sunk in ‘57 were never removed, so the consequence has been, that a bank was formed right across the River, leaving a channel at the side. In amongst the hundreds of boats (the Boat Population being between 40 & 50,000), past the Dutch Folly, now no longer a Fort but covered with houses, and alongside the Wharf and made fast.

We soon made our way to Clayson’s House, who kindly offered to put us up. Nine years ago, a blue-jacket in our Service, now a Deputy Commissioner of Customs with his £1,000 a year. After depositing our gear at his house on the Sharren, we went out and did our shopping, buying all manner of silks and Pekin Enamel. Gauze silk was $6 for the piece 22 yds. Choefee [?] Silk $5½, and Silk Handk’s, 3 for 10.

The next day, taking Archdeacon Gray’s Boy for guide, we sallied out in chairs and paid visits to all the places of interest in the City. Temple of 5 Genii and the 500 Genii; the latter contains 500 Images. One is supposed to be Marco Polo, the features and dress being European. Visited silk manufacturies, flour being made, carving and lacquer ships, Pagodas, Execution Ground. Saw the Cross on which Lin-chi is performed and lunched at the 5 Stoned Pagoda. Then finished up by visiting the Examination Hall.

Examinations take place every 3 years, lasting one day, open to every one. There are some 7,000 cells for the Candidates in the open air, in rows of 70 to 60. Once a man goes in he is not allowed out until he has finished Examination. At Pekin I believe there are some 20,000 cells.

DEPART HONG KONG
ARRIVE SINGAPORE

3 November – Sunday

Singapore. Made a good passage down from Hong Kong in 9 days, light and variable winds. Very warm in ship on the passage, 94° in the Upper Sick Bay. Came in here Friday last. Found Iron Duke, Modeste and Fly here. Paid visit to the Iron Duke.

Cleveland is very crotchety in his ideas of discipline and consequently his ship is not very comfortable. Expect Admiral Coote, the 10th, and we shall probably leave the 14th or 15th for home. Had a budget from home. All well.

10 November – Sunday

Admiral Coote came in and at once hoisted his Flag at the Fore of the Iron Duke, and saluted our man, who returned ditto. Admiral Coote, Staff and Captain of ships, dined with our man. I dined also, sitting next Admiral Coote. Renewed the acquaintance Maitland-Dougall, a very nice fellow and a great friend of Meta’s and Ned’s. Dined last night with Mead, Capt. Modeste.

14 November – Thursday

Iron Duke’s dined here last night; a long dinner.

15 November – Friday

We dined on board the I.D. last night. There was a great function after dinner on deck. A large number of our fellows from the G.R. also being on board and some from the shore. McCallum being one, a young Engineer Officer (he took Kennedy, Robinson and myself over the Forts he is building here and making a very good job of it too, last Monday). Lots of singing with very loud choruses and then parting cheers and we pulled back to our old ship, and this morning cheering ship, we started for home. It was curious Kennedy, Robinson and I being such friends of the S---’s should knock up together in this part of the world and many a long talk have we had about the girls.

DEPART SINGAPORE
ARRIVE TRINCOMALEE

25 November – Monday

Arrived at Trincomalee this afternoon, having experienced a Southerly current the last two days. The voyage over was much the same as our usual cruising. Received a letter from Russell, who states his intention of coming home and going about with young Chirnside. I hope he will not do so.

28 November – Thursday

Finished coaling this morning at 7 o’c. We commenced to coal Tuesday morning and went on until 8 o’c each night. The coolies work so very slowly ashore, filling the lighters. I attended at the coal sheds each day for 12 hours, not that I could do much but Durrant was very anxious to push on, and thought I suppose, we would expedite matters by having someone watching the coal.

The Euryalus we missed by two days. She thought we had gone to Galle. We found the Wild Swan in. That bear, Dacres in command. She is a very pretty looking craft and sails very well. Met an old shipmate of mine in her.

Devil Drink has been at work again. 1st Lieut., D.S.S. [?], and tried to run a sword through himself; Carpenter going home in us and a fine Ldg Sea. dying of consumption, getting drunk and laying all night on the pier at Aden. I also heard that in the small detachment of R.A’s at Trincomalee, there is a Gunner who was very lately Paymaster in the Spartan and can’t even keep his Corporal’s stripes.

Went ashore with Durrant and paid a visit to the Fort built by Parravivium, 1767. I see the authorities are making preparations for mounting some more heavy guns, in addition to the 12 ton already got up.

We sailed at 11 o’c cursing the washerwomen who have lost and brutally abused our washing. I lost 7 pieces and my washing not mangled, nor ironed. Clarke had a collar given to him, the remains of a shirt. They seem to have put the washing on a stone, strewn sand on top and taken another large stone and regularly holystoned the linen and I’ve got to go on to Malta, five weeks or more.

DEPART TRINCOMALEE

1 December – Sunday

A strong current with us down the coast of Ceylon and following us round to the Westward. Hitherto out of the Monsoon, unfortunately however we hope to pick it up soon. Took the Communion today.

9 December – Monday

Fine breeze from the Northward. We should be off Socotra tomorrow and get into Aden, Friday or Saturday.

ARRIVE ADEN

10 December – Friday

Arrived at Aden after a quick passage of 15 days from Trincomalee. A most barren looking rock.

14 December – Saturday

Leave until 3 pm so I very soon started off with Aplin, Bourke and Sandilands to walk out to the Tanks.

Soon after landing an irresistible desire took Bourke to ride a camel, so a passing camel was stopped. Boy bribed to get off and Bourke (230 lbs) went to get on, asking Sandilands to give him a leg up and not throw him over the Camel, which taking into consideration Bourke’s weight and camel’s height was not very probable. Sandilands, in giving him a leg up, got a leg from the camel in the shape of a kick and down came old Bourke.

Nothing daunted he made another gallant attempt and succeeded in placing himself athwart the camel, sitting on a straw saddle, and off he went at a walk, soon a trot and then a run as the animal’s feelings got excited. Under the influence of ‘Sporto’ backing and Sandilands in his rear heaving stones at his quarters, Bourke was soon jumping up and down in a most uncomfortable way and also gradually working back towards his tail, when to our intense amusement Bourke was seen on top of the large straw saddle to gracefully make his exit over the animal’s stern and alight on his legs. The straw round the hind legs of the camel effectually hobbled it, and we all roared at seeing the scene. I noticed Bourke was not keen to ride another one.

We ultimately fetched the Tanks which are at present quite dry. They do not get rain here for years sometimes. The Tanks hold some 30,000,000 gallons, but I fancy they condense all their water. Aden is strongly fortified. A Japanese corvette and French transport in.

We sailed at 4 pm leaving our messman behind, but fortunately the grub is on board, but still it is a very great nuisance the man missing his passage.

Got a tremendous lot of papers etc on board, six mails I think. I got five letters. All well at home. Mr Boyce, so Francie tells me, wanted to marry her but the RE officer was not successful. I hope the dear girl will marry some good Christian man who will love her and guide her well.

Russell, I hear is going to be Managing Director of a Company in Victoria. He goes up to grow Olives and they got a grant of 1,000 acres free from the Government. He certainly is a wonderful fellow. Robbie’s 21st birthday. Every good wish attend him.

DEPART ADEN

15 December – Sunday

Passed the S of Perim this morning, the P & O passing us at the same time. Asked her if she had our messman on board; No.

The story of how we obtained Perim is curious and authentic. The French had their eye on it and despatched a Frigate to take possession, but running short of coal she put into Aden. The Governor asked the Admiral to dine and during the dinner under the influence of Bacchus, he let out what his destination was and the reasons, etc. The Governor being a sharp sort of fellow, kept the Admiral in play as long as he could, and in the interim, despatched an English Gunboat away as fast as possible to hoist the English Flag on the Island of Perim. So on the French Frigate getting there they discovered to their disgust and surprise that the Island was English, so they seized the point on the mainland opposite. I hope they are satisfied. In Vino Veritas.

ARRIVE SUEZ

24 December – Tuesday

Suez. Arrived here this morning. Been shipping extra piece of rudder all day.

25 December – Christmas Day

Spent very quietly on board. What with a long sea cruise and off such a place as Aden, there is very little liquor knocking about.

Corfe preached a very good sermon this morning. About the best I’ve heard him preach, alluding to our being so close to spots visited by our Saviour. We passed Mount Sinai Monday morning, just seeing the top for about a couple of hours when it opens out, clear of the higher mountain in front and in the evening, we passed the spot where the Israelites are supposed to have encamped, it being the beginning of the Valley leading up to Mount Sinai.

A party of our fellows went out to Moses’ Well, some six miles out. An oasis of three small patches, each about 200 yards in diameter. It is one of the resting places for caravans to Mecca. The water comes out from the top of a cone of sand and irrigates the ground close round, which grows vegetables etc. and Palm Trees.

TRANSIT SUEZ CANAL

26 December – Thursday

Started from Suez this morning at 8 o’c with a head wind, or rather one on the Bow; two steamers astern. Bucketed about from one side of the canal to the other and at 1 o’c having got 10 miles from Suez, got toggled right across canal, and remained there for 3 hours, preventing the P & O Mail Deccan from passing, and the two astern also could not go by. I think they were much disgusted at our making a three day’s job of it for them, instead of two.

At 4 o’c after much hauling and carrying away of hawsers, we got off and repeated the operation of bounding from one side to the other. Twice our screws touching, brought up the engines dead, once going 40 revs. and once 30 revs. Some P & O passengers came down to meet us and wished us a Happy New Year, three ladies amongst them.

We got the band up and played marches to them, to which they stepped out in proper style, the ladies going over the sandhills like 3 year olds. Much laughing and chattering going on. Our Upper Battery Deck crowded with officers and the booms and F’cle with men, who at the least thing cheered and clapped. A ladies parasol going inside out was the occasion for one, and each lady got one on getting up a steep sand hill.

Two young people, spooning away, dropped behind and the quick eye of Jack soon twigged what was going on, as in fact we all did. Shortly, some of the Rear Guard of the P & O’s turned round and picked up the two would-be unconscious stragglers, which elicited a cheer and much laughter from the Bluejackets. I heard one fellow say to his chum “Well Bill, this is a pleasure seeing some English ladies again.” I suppose our dried up countrywomen abroad don’t suit Jack’s taste.

At 5 o’c after farewell cheers they set out for their steamer which was close to in a Gare and it being dark we made fast to the Banks about 16 miles from Suez.

I noticed this evening our 90’s Gun, on being fired gave a series of rolling echoes.

28 December – Saturday

Last night we gared at the Station the Suez side of Kantara. The station-master came on board with his newly married wife, to listen to the Band. A very pretty little thing. She came down in the W.R. just as the wine was going round. Passed the Euphrates at Kantara, close work. She was full of troops, principally drafts, cheering and band playing etc. went on.

29 December – Sunday

Arrived at Port Said this morning at 9 am and prepared ship for coaling and are getting in 400 tons and hope to leave about 3 pm for Malta. I had a walk ashore and never saw a more vile hole in my life, especially the Arab Town. The Kaiser-in Hind, P & O came in just after us. She averaged 13·5 kn from Aden to Suez.

Left this evening at 6 pm and had some little difficulty starting as she had got aground astern, but just as we began laying out hawsers, she came off. The Egyptians in the small gun-vessel, were most anxious to assist, sending a boat and gave the Admiral a personal salute, which we returned, as soon as we cleared the Light House.

One blade of our starboard screw is very much bent. We are going 48 rev. with S.S. and 38 with Port Screw and yet carry 3 turns of Port Helm.

1879

DEPART PORT SAID

1 January – Wednesday

Another year broken into and I thank God, I see its advent in health and strength and my family unbroken in numbers, and I pray Almighty we may all be spared to each other during this year and for many years to come.

Dined last night with the Admiral, who told some wonderful stories of reconciliation. Making but slow progress through the briny, only going 4·5 kn instead of about 7·5 kn owing to screw being bent.

VISIT MALTA

19 January – Sunday

Edward particularly desired me to make Mrs Lawton’s acquaintance which I did and found her a most charming person, a young widow, a most pleasant manner and face. She is out here for the winter as she is very delicate and rarely goes out. Her young sister, Miss Thomson is staying with her and also her young sister-in-law, Miss Haywood. They were most kind to me during my stay at Malta. I quite made their house my home and met the girls often at the At Homes etc. Last night I dined with them and then took the girls to the Opera where Aplin joined us, and we had a very pleasant evening.

Friday night, the Minotaur gave some private theatricals in the Opera House. The House was simply crammed from top to bottom and it was a very pretty sight. The acting was uncommonly good, especially Foote and Matthews, and I’ve rarely seen a better make up for a woman than Leveson. He looked like a very pretty girl and acted his part very well. The stage was literally covered with bouquets. It was certainly great fun. It would have been better I think to have left out one piece for three pieces make the evening rather long, and to have put a hornpipe in.

Jack Stewart shewed me all over the ship yesterday excepting the Turret which is closed until after the Court of Inquiry is held. Gibson says he has a pretty good idea how it happened, but of course he also is not allowed to say anything about it yet. I paid a visit to the Hecla yesterday and had a look over her and one of the Thornycroft launches.

AT GIBRALTAR

28 January – Tuesday

We arrived at Gibraltar early on Sunday morning and soon lashed alongside the New Mole. Edward came off and glad I was at seeing him. He was looking very well. Gilbard came off in all his war paint from the Governor’s. Lunched with Ned and then a turn up to the signal station and to evening service, dining with the Gilbards, Lily looking very fit, somewhat matronly.

Monday. Gilbard, Lily, Ned and I, and also a young lady, Miss Atwood, went out for a ride (Gilbard mounting me) taking our lunch with us. We went through San Roque, and the two Pine Woods and tiffined at the Crags, and altogether had a very pleasant ride. Dined at the 42nds mess with Ned. Made Moubray’s acquaintance and yarned away with him, knowing his people very well.

1 February – Saturday

In Sounding at 8 pm. Left the Rock at 8 o’c on Tuesday morning and have had a slashing fine breeze astern from Cape Trafalgar right across to Ushant. Hope to anchor Plymouth Sound tomorrow night.

ARRIVE PLYMOUTH SOUND

3 February – Monday

Arrived last night. Went ashore this afternoon and paid a visit to the Sailor’s Institute and had a yarn with Miss Weston. I was very pleased with my visit.

I then went over to Torpoint and paid old Lady Hillyar a visit. It certainly was very wonderful to see an old lady of over 90 years of age so clear in her intellect and to hear her talk of Lords Nelson and Collingwood and dining, when a married woman, with the Captains after the battle of Trafalgar at Gibraltar.

I was sorry to find Elise not at home. Her little girl is a dear thing.

4 February – Tuesday

Admiral’s Flag came down last night. Today dear Meta is 27 years old. Left Plymouth this afternoon for Chatham.