HMS PENGUIN

[Composite screw sloop]

1888: Takes command in Trincomalee - Visits Maldives - Negotiations with Sultan - Shadowed by Russian ship - Visits Seychelles - Arrive Zanzibar - Meets General Mathews and other officials - Death of Sultan - Attends Consular Court - Visit to new Sultan - Anti slavery patrol - Capture of dhows - Visit to Mombasa - Attends service at mission school - Dispute on anti slavery policy with British Resident - Various anti-slavery patrols in Zanzibar Channel - Hippopotami shooting expedition - German activities in region - Arrival of Flag ship and C-in-C - Social events and exercises - Assistance to Germans at Kilwa against native uprising - Independent cruise Mayotta, Seychelles, Mauritius, Madagascar and Mozambique - Activities at various ports. 1889: Patrols between Zanzibar and Mombasa - Anglo-German dispute about spheres of influence - Friction between C in C and Resident -To Aden - Patrols in Red Sea - Relieved by Pigeon - Return to UK - Pay off ship in Sheerness.

1888

AT TRINCOMALEE

27 February - Monday

Reverting back to the 22nd Wednesday, on which day I formally took command of HMS Penguin, and was busily engaged all that day taking papers and other things over from Captain Haygarth. He had left a very small stock of provisions, so I had to buy a large amount ashore at a more than fair price, as far as my pocket went.

That evening, Haygarth and I dined with the Ward Room Officers and the usual speeches were made. At 10.30 pm Haygarth left the ship, and at 11 pm I went out of harbour for Trincomalee.

The 23rd we were steaming 9 knots, and ship most uncomfortable, being so very lively and jumpy. I could neither read nor write in my cabin. On Friday 24th, we arrived at Trincomalee, and moored, finding the Euryalus here, but Admiral and Flag Captain up country.

A poor lad named Barry died on Friday evening at the sick quarters. I did not know he was so ill until, whilst mooring, the Doctor told me he was dangerously ill, which he should have done before. I had him removed to my cabin and ultimately to the Sick Quarters as his only chance of life. But the poor lad was too far gone and died at 10 pm the same evening. He was buried in the RC Church-yard, I attended as Chief Mourner and Band of Flagship attended. I thought the RC ceremonies so flippant and hollow, beside our Solemn Service.

Sunday. Morton, Chaplain of the Flagship, came and held the service, and I read voluntary prayers at 4 pm; only three men attended that evening.

Admiral returned and Flag Lieut sent off saying a room at Admiralty House was at my disposal, so Monday I took up my quarters at Admiralty House

Tuesday 28th. Admiral Sir Frederick Richards is a most reticent and reserved man. He hardly speaks to anyone, and Moore, Flag Captain, complained about want of confidence Admiral showed, but he is the same to everyone. I had a little conversation with him, but not much.

1 March - Thursday

Heard by mail from Lel and Lady Hall. I certainly missed the familiar old handwriting very much indeed; his letters always so terse and full of information. Intend trying to allot £15 a month home, which will enable me to put by enough for the girls until June 1890.

2 March - Friday

Ready for sea today. This evening I went to the Wesleyan Mission Room, Mr Restarick Minister taking the chair, and gave an address for ½ an hour on Gospel Temperance. I am thankful to say the room was full, about 150 there, including many soldiers and sailors and I never spoke better and endeavoured to be a good witness. Returned to Admiralty House - asked Colonel Clive if he would like a passage round to Colombo.

DEPART TRINCOMALEE

3 March - Saturday

Sailed this morning having said good bye to the Admiral who showed me the print of my dear father he had got; and sent down to my boat a bucket full of vegetables and flowers.

4 March - Sunday

Steaming along 8 knts.

I held Divine Service and read an interesting address on Nicodemus from Oxenden’s Portraits from the Bible; was very pleased to see how attentive the men were. Hymns sang very heartily, led by a concertina. After Evening Quarters I had short prayers ‘stand up’, many attended. Last night had a dinner party of six. Oliver did very well.

ARRIVE COLOMBO

5 March - Monday

Arrived at Colombo early this morning. Received mails. Glad to get a letter from E.D.

Called on Russian Captain Osteletsky, of Korietz, quite a new craft. Managed to screw a lot of particulars out of him regarding his craft, which is bound for Vladivostock.

At 5 pm Colonel Clive took me out to dine; called on General Lennox; dined at Clive’s; suffering from cold.

6 March - Tuesday

Sailed for the Maldives, proceeding under steam.

7 March - Wednesday

Made sail this morning. In the evening exercised letting go the life buoy, tacking, wearing and heaving ship to. Ship turned about like a top.

ARRIVE MALDIVES

10 March - Saturday

Made the Maldives this morning. Just seeing the palm trees and very soon I found coral islands covered with palms all around one. At 1 pm passing through a channel anchored ship in 29 fm off Mali Island, the capital of the Maldive Islands, southernmost island of the Mali Atoll group; there being 22,000 islands in the several groups.

I was boarded by several officials who told me any amount of lies; and I sent word by one of the Wazirs or ADCs that I intended coming, if agreeable, to call on the Sultan at 4 pm. At 2 pm I landed with Mr Millett (clerk) and went to the Cutchery, where after waiting some time, the ADC said the Sultan was too sick to receive me. I found out from Ibrahim Didi that he saw the Sultan last night and he was quite well so I insisted in seeing His Highness. My only interpreter was Ali, the W.R. servant.

At seeing very little chance of getting the ADCs to take a message to His Highness, and not seeing any of the Ministers, I started for the Palace followed by the Wazirs and a crowd of natives. I entered the Palace court and then stopped at the inner porch, and told the Wazirs that I intended seeing the Sultan before leaving, though he were in bed.

Seeing I was determined to have my own way they went into the Sultan and returned saying he was on the WC. After waiting some time I was at last ushered in still followed by a crowd of natives, and stopping at the door of the inner apartment I was received by Mahomed Didi (Prime Minister) and others and then the Sultan came out, upon which I paid the usual compliments and then gave the Governor’s messages.

The Sultan, a young fellow of 25, is evidently only a puppet in the hands of his Ministers and looked an indolent and not over bright individual. The Sultan made an excuse that he was not well (this on a hint from one of the Wazirs) and retired so we all adjourned to the Cutchery, this time all the Ministers being present; cigarettes and tea going round. We talked of business; viz. the Treaty, by which the Sultan recognised the suzerainty of Ceylon Government and then we had a chat about the exiles, they telling me that the exiles were well treated (a lie) and that Ibrahim Didi would be granted permission to depart for Ceylon. I then went to Ibrahim Didi’s house and heard all that he had to say. It appears that present Prime Minister is his nephew and I also had all the merchants and Indian traders before me. I then saw the ex-Sultan and at 7 pm came off, pretty tired.

Found a rumour prevalent that Russians were going to take Ceylon from the English, and gave it the lie. Ibrahim Didi came off at 9 pm to see me. I gave him a letter of protection - altogether affairs are a little mixed. Ibrahim Didi evidently means to get into power again if he can.

Marriage customs are peculiar. When a man has lived long enough with his wife he quietly puts her away and marries another; she can do the same, so sometimes the list mounts up to over a dozen. The young Sultan has put away three who are all remarried.

11 March - Sunday

The day my dear father was born, how well I remember two years ago sending him a telegraph. How pleased he was at getting it especially on receiving the General Service Pension of which he gave the first fruit to God.

Sailed this morning and steamed down through the Atolls. Very picturesque the numerous coral islands, with the villages nestling under the waving and graceful palms, the surf breaking in grand billows on the outer coral reef surrounding these islands.

At noon a sail reported on stbd Bow. As we approached within 5 miles we raised her hull, She had hammocks up drying, We soon made her out to be a Russian man of war. What was she doing down in these parts? Curious to say the least. I altered course towards her so as to pass within 2 miles, she lowered her hammocks and soon smoke appeared from her funnel. She was at anchor and her top gallant masts struck and evidently she had been there the day before, for fires were out and we noticed a red flag on a pole. Evidently on one of the reefs.

I compared her carefully with the photographs of Russian ships and made her out to be the Vyestnik that was at Colombo three weeks ago. They had told our officers that she was going straight to Aden. What has she been doing? My impression is that she has been on the lookout to annex a coaling station, and it must have been an unwelcome surprise our bowling her out. At 4 pm, from the mastheads, we made out her steaming to northward. Mr Millet, clerk, dined with me this evening, and afterwards we had a nice chat together.

DEPART MALDIVES

14 March - Wednesday

Made sail this morning, but wind failing, am drawing fires forward again. It is so much pleasanter sailing, cooler, and one has not that monotonous and continual thump of the screw always going on.

ARRIVE SEYCHELLES

20 March - Tuesday

Sunday afternoon made Denis Island, laid to off it at 4 pm and piped Hands to Bathe, got sail over and am glad I did as whilst bathing a shark came cruising along the opposite side. I called everyone in.

At 2 am Monday steamed over for Mahe Island and at 7 am arrived in the outer anchorage, but not having a Bill of Health - as my Medical Officer should have got one at Colombo - we were placed in Quarantine. I wrote to Mr Barkly, the Chief Commissioner, asking him to get us released, which he did that evening and we proceeded into the Inner Harbour, not taking a Pilot, One has to be very careful as reefs are numerous and the Inner Harbour is small, though once inside, very snug.

Called on the Ch. Comm. and dined quietly with them both. He has not long come from the Falkland Islands where he saw a lot of Kennedy and told me a good deal about him. Barkly is v. anxious to return there. His father was Sir Henry Barkly, Governor of Cape Colony for some time; Mrs Barkly, being the daughter of a former Bishop of Mauritius. We had a theological argument after dinner, he maintaining that religious men did not face death in battle as well as reckless men. I differed and said a truly religious man did.

Whilst out walking met the Bishop of Mauritius and his wife and this morning heard from him asking me to accompany him down the coast in a boat 12 miles. I declined.

We find it very hot here, little or no wind at this time of year. It is a picturesque place being high land well clothed with green, but not so thickly covered as the West Indian Islands are; rock is volcanic.

Barkly told me the French men of war are always here and that during the Madagascar business had one always up, ready to seize it.

This morning I paid a visit to a Whaling vessel, Diamentina. The 2nd Mate, a very intelligent Bermudian negro, showed me all the whaling implements and gave me a lot of information. The Sperm Whales cruise round Mauritius, Bourbon and Seychelles and other banks following their feed. They are not so plentiful as they were 4 years ago on account of being overfished, but they still go out and get some. A large Sperm has 40 to 50 barrels of oil in its head, which increases to 80 by boiling and his blubber gives up another 60 or so. They are very affectionate and if a young one is harpooned, the whole school of whales wait and hang about. The large ones remain 60 to 80 ft under water, and about one and a half above water. They shoot explosive into them sometimes, besides harpooning them. They tow boats sometimes 3 miles an hour, but rarely show any fight.

24 March - Saturday

On Tuesday last I dined with Dr Brooks at Mahe, Seychelles, meeting the Bishop of Mauritius and Chief Commissioner Barkly, with the ladies. I took in Miss Royston, the Bishop’s daughter, and found her nice a quiet girl, not very much to say for herself. We sat for 2½ hours in a very hot room with no punkah and then adjourned to verandah. The next morning I had a severe attack of diarrhoea having received a chill the previous evening and I was completely laid up all Wed and Thur, with diarrhoea and vomiting, unable to keep anything down and am now only just getting over it. I am very much pulled down.

On Thursday evening a Temperance Meeting was to have been held, got up by the Bishop, the CC taking the chair and I giving the address, but on account of my being ill it was put off.

At the dinner given by Dr Brooks we had a most interesting conversation on General Gordon. Barkly and the Bishop knew him very well and have corresponded with him often. Barkly, a man who does not believe in prayer, said he thought Gordon was very brave with a Great idea of himself, vain, very capricious and at times cruel and also had most extraordinary ideas on some things. Utterly unsuited to work with other people, but suited to lead and mould uncivilised races. The Bishop said he was at times capricious but so unselfish, by no means vain and a thorough believer in prayer, and a bit of a fatalist, always ready to help anyone, and had peculiar ideas on the Eucharist. They also mentioned Gordon’s reasons for thinking Praslin Island was originally the Garden of Eden and the Coco de Mer the forbidden fruit.

On Friday yesterday I embarked the Bishop, Mrs Royston and daughter and took them over to Praslin Island for which they were most grateful. The deacon of the C of E in the island came off. A true Creole and agent for Miss Weston and after landing them I proceeded to Zanzibar.

DEPART SEYCHELLES

25 March - Sunday

Derived much comfort from reading the last two sections of VI of Romans v.7 to end. So exactly my experience.

ARRIVE ZANZIBAR

31 March - Saturday

Zanzibar - Arrived here yesterday and found Mariner in. German Nautilus and Italian xxx. The Garnet is away cruising. Dined with Arbuthnott, heard the news of the late Sultan having died on Monday the 26th from consumption. He had gone to Muscat in one of his ships for a change of air but returned on Mon 26th and died a few hours after landing.

General Mathews managed everything very well, at once took charge and sent for the Sultan’s brother and told him he was Sultan. At first he thought it was a plan for getting him into the town and locking him up, but at last he came and was recognised by the English and German Consul Generals as had been previously arranged. There was no row as is usually the case on the demise of a Sultan and everyone is loud in praises of Mathews’ arrangements and quietness in carrying them out.

This morning I called on the German and Italian Commanders and had a long talk with the latter on the coming war, which however I hope may not break out. I then called on Col Euan Smith our Consul General and then on the German Consul General. The former told me he had written to Lord Salisbury saying how well Mathews has done. I then went to Mathews, who was delighted to see me, he and I being very old friends, having entered the Service together; and he told me to use his house as my own. We had a long chat over everything, and he told me that yesterday some 20,000 Arabs had come into the town from along the coast all ready for anything. He marched his troops out and had ammunition ready, but managed to clear them off from the front of the Palace, without bloodshed.

He told me that if the German and English Governments had not decided on putting the brother on the throne, he had intended putting the son, a lad of 15. The late Sultan he told me was a man of great character and firmness and that he refused, a month ago, (though bullied by the Germans) ill as he was, to sign a treaty they wished him to, unless he was forced to do so by a Squadron coming down. The Germans want to rent all the coast line from him, they taking the Customs.

The new Sultan has sent all the late Sultan’s Hareem about their business with the exception of about half a dozen. The remainder, 80 or 90 Georgians and Circassians, however were soon snapped up by the Arab sheiks about - this is the yarn flying about - some say on the other hand, that he has left them half their old quarters and put his Hareem into the other half.

1 April (Easter Day)

Last night I had a small dinner party. Arbuthnott, Kay and Stanhope.

This morning I landed at 8 am and walked to the English Church, found the Swahili Service was going on. The interior of the church was very little different to that of an RC church: 6 large and 8 small candles alight on the Communion Table at one side. I remained to take the Communion at the English Service and was much surprised and taken aback at receiving a wafer instead of a piece of bread and something was put into the wine. I did not like it at all, it smacked too much of papal superstition. I am afraid that the University Mission is very extreme and that the tendency of all this high ritual is to wrap up the life giving kernel with a gorgeous and sensuous covering, pleasing to the eye and ear, but alas! tending to make poor mortals go about seeking to establish their own righteousness as the Jews did of old.

The Garnet arrived in this afternoon and on reporting myself to Jenkings, he told me my cruising ground was the South part of the Zanzibar Channel. They have captured several Dhows. One last Thursday showed fight and kept it up with one of their boats for 2 hours. At last they were caught after three Arabs had been killed and one drowned - unfortunately in the fight, one slave killed and 4 wounded.

2 April - Monday

Landed to see how matters were put through the Consular Court.

We all lunched with Consul General. We were talking of slaves and I heard how eunuchs were made. It appears a clean sweep is made of everything and they sit in the sand as high as their waist until the bleeding stops; needless to say the mortality is very high, about 70% dying. The operation is generally performed on Nubian boys of 12 or thereabouts. Eunuchs generally are either fat, or, long and thin. No hair on their face and squeaky voice.

6 April - Friday

Had a very interesting chat with Col Smith on India. He told me that the present Nizam, as soon as he got the reins into his hands, retired into his harem of 20,000 women and did not appear for 7 months. He said Sir Salar Sing [?] said that when the Nizam came to his place to stay with thousands of these women, they left it in a most filthy state. The Mahomedans at Hyderabad drink wine and are by no means correct followers of Mahomet.

Major McDonald (74th) and I had a long talk about the slave question. We both agree it was a sham our present system of putting it down. Slow vessels and too few and then the unfortunate rescued slaves, too many alas of the women become prostitutes. He told me a very affecting story of a young girl kidnapped from Zanzibar and rescued by one of our boats and the next thing he found the unfortunate girl, about 12, dreadfully ill with TB; and in the hut out of 5 women, three had been rescued from slavers - passed through the Consular Courts. I intend, DV, looking up this question.

This morning 25 naval officers headed by Col Euan Smith marched to the Palace through rows of Arab soldiers, armed with most quaint guns and swords and then through ranks of Mathews’ soldiers, who for the first time went to the Leveé as an Englishman, and at the entrance to the Palace we were received by two bands (one Persian and the other black) playing God Save the Queen: and in Hall of Palace we were welcomed by a lot of Arab Sheiks fully accoutred and armed.

2 pm. I sailed and dropped two boats off Kwale for cruising. Anchored off Kundichi for the night.

ON PATROL - MAFIA CHANNEL

7 April - Saturday

Started at 5 am this morning and arrived at Mafia off Tirene at 6 pm, having passed through numberless reefs on my way and nearly getting ashore on one. Boarded several Dhows with no result. Landed two interpreters to find out any news.

8 April - Sunday

No concertina this morning for the service, so I had to do Presenter.

9 April - Monday

The Interpreter only returned and from what I can gather the other chap has gone on the .. [?]. It is most provoking waiting here doing nothing. Nothing going on here in the way of slaving, though ten days ago a Dhow left with 20 slaves for Zanzibar.

11 April - Wednesday

Yesterday the Interpreter returned. It appears the poor old chap has had nothing to eat since he left the ship, having no money he could not pay for a guide and lost his way.

I detached Mr Job with Galley and Gig for a three day’s cruise in South Mafia Channel.

Whilst at church the other day the Arabs who sent off 20 slaves, ten days ago, sailed past us with 7 more on board, but I expect they were domestic slaves and probably would not wish to be released.

This morning I up anchor and when in the midst of the reefs a heavy squall of rain and thick weather came on. However it eventually cleared off and I came round to North Mafia so as to be 20 miles from Boats, and out of sight. Landed at 4 pm with Stanhope (1st Lt), Kay (Pay) and McAdam (Dr), at Barakuni Island and a fusillade commenced. At 6 pm we came off with a large bag of wood pigeon and ring dove.

15 April - Sunday

On Friday, Boats returned having had rather a bad time from the wind and rain. That evening I started from Tirene for Zanzibar and a precious nasty night it was, raining and heavy squalls of wind at times. I remained on deck most of the night as ship was running through comparatively narrow channels and one had no idea as to what current there might be.

Saturday morning, found ourselves soundings, somewhere in the Zanzibar Channel, about 20 miles further up than we reckoned. At last Pungume showed up and I anchored.

At 4 pm Hibbert returned and reported he had detained two Dhows, which it appears are the two that left Mafia with an Arab and 30 of his domestics, that I heard of at Mafia. One containing the Arab’s wife and 6 slaves, which left Tirene, right under my nose just as I was going to church; and I remembered I was nearly lowering a boat to board her, but thinking it a pity to disturb the men, I did not do so.

17 April - Tuesday

Our two cases came on this day and has gone against us, and I am rather glad of it for I do not think we had a good case. The facts being that an Arab was moving all his goods and chattels from Mafia to Zanzibar, and these domestic slaves had been with him, or his family for a long time. Though five girls and one boy said they wanted to be free, they said they were well treated but did not want to go to Zanzibar. On cross examination by Berkeley, Consular Judge, they did not tell the same story and could not prove, poor ignorant creatures, that they were coming over under compulsion, so did not come under the treaty requirements. The four girls that said they were free and that I refused to land ashore simply to be snatched up by the first man coming along, were also proved to be domestic slaves of Rana Bin Sadis, mother-in-law, so they were given up.

18 April - Wednesday

Sent Hibbert in Cutter, with Whaler to Mkokotoni to try his luck.

19 April - Thursday

Sailed this morning and steered down for Mbwamaji. On nearing the Sinda Islands, I saw two small Dhows running in for the shore, I told the Signalman to keep his glass on them, though I did not think there was anything suspicious about them. But on their running their Dhows ashore and a lot of people getting out, about 20 from each Dhow, and running as hard as they could into the bush, my suspicions were confirmed and I lowered my boats and gave chase. But having a 1½ miles to pull, by the time they got ashore the slaves and their owners had all disappeared in the thick bush, and though I had several parties out scouring the thick bush, they could not overtake them, but picked up a lot of gear dropped on the way. I found the Dhows completely gutted, and one half full water, through a hole having been bored through the bottom. Towed them both off to ship.

20 April - Friday

Sent Mr Job away in the Steam Pinnace to Dhow Harbour but he returned at 1 am having failed to reach it on account of swell and reefs. Sailed for Zanzibar towing both Dhows having first searched bush and villages for slaves, but at 1 pm gave it up, though I believe they are hidden in Mbwamaji village.

Arrived at Zanzibar 6 30 pm.

AT ZANZIBAR

21 April - Saturday

Two Dhows condemned this morning, their size given in as 43 and 23 tons. Signed it, my conscience telling me something was wrong. It meant £360, my share being £36.

I embarked Col Euan Smith (who is seedy) for a cruise. On my way down to Dar es Salam I sent for Lt Davenport and the carpenter and found out they had measured the Dhows in a wrong way, I am afraid on purpose, though I had given strict orders about it. On looking at their dimensions they came to 20 and 11 tons instead of 45 and 20, representing £170 instead of £360. I must have it altered.

Sailed for Dar es Salam at 11 am, which place I reached at 4 pm: went up the river with Col and some of the officers to look for Hippopotami, but the Germans located here have frightened them away.

Dined in the Ward Room. Euan Smith told some very amusing stories. One about the Military representative of America, who at the Delhi manoeuvres, being asked by Sir F. Roberts if he had had a good ride, said “Well I guess General my horse has been playing cup and ball with me all day and missed me seven times.”

It appears one of the Russian representatives at the Delhi manoeuvres at review, being clothed in a silver cuirass (the 14th different uniform he had put on during manoeuvres), it shone so much that the horse he was going to mount threw up its head and knocked him down; upon which he would not go to the review. The natives said at once it was good omen for the English Raj and that the Russians would never take India. Sir F. Roberts, Col S. said, was pleased at the occurrence.

AT DAR ES SALAM

22 April - Sunday

Spent the day quietly at anchor. The Wali of Dar es Salem has sent some soldiers to Mbwamaji to get slaves, or, send chief to Zanzibar.

23 April - Monday

Dar Es Salam this morning, and looking in at Zanzibar dropped Col Euan Smith, as he is by no means well, suffering from a bad liver. On to Mkokotoni Bay, and found Hibbert had captured a Dhow this morning. She had run ashore, and about 25 slaves ran ashore, of whom 7 were captured, but the rest could not be found, though the bush was well searched. Intend towing Dhow back tomorrow.

AT ZANZIBAR AND ON LOCAL PATROL

24 April - Tuesday

Returned to Zanzibar, put Dhow into Court and had her condemned, the released slaves going up to Mombasa with Rev Price for the Mission.

Arbuthnot received telegram from Admiral ordering him to Aden. Griffon is coming down here.

Dreadful attack of influenza cold.

26 April - Thursday

Sailed this afternoon and anchored at Mkokotoni for the night. Mariner joined at 9 pm with Col Euan Smith on board.

27 April - Friday

Sailed from Mkokotoni this morning and arrived at Pemba, 11 am, going through the Uvinje Gap in the reefs. It being dead low water, the reefs were easily made out.

29 April - Sunday

Got underway this morning, much against my will, having embarked Col Euan Smith, who is most anxious to arrive at Zanzibar tomorrow morning. The Mariner also weighed the same time, and proceeded to Aden. We made the usual complimentary signals to each other. I am sorry to lose Arbuthnot from this part of the station as he is such a good fellow.

I left Hibbert and Mr Job behind with four boats and arrived at Mkokotoni this evening.

30 April - Monday

Arrived at Zanzibar 10 am.

1 May - Tuesday

Having called for the Quarterly Statement of Canteen Committee, find a serious loss of 560 Rupees. I ordered some officers to investigate it, and from the result of their investigations, fear the Master At Arms, the Manager, has been guilty of embezzlement.

This afternoon went out for a long ride with Col Euan Smith. Before going out he showed me a long letter Dr Emin Pasha had written from Lake Albert, six months ago. It had taken five months to get to Lake Victoria and 1 month from thence to this place, arriving last night. He writes in a small hand and seems most active; hopes to have Stanley with him by Xmas, though he could not get any news of him. Is at peace with neighbouring chiefs and says Mwanga, who murdered Hannington, is intoxicated with power (I believe he is a great drunkard).

He (Emin Pasha) was just crossing Albert Lake in a steamer to search for some flora he had heard of, and had built some more boats. He also enclosed an original letter from the Mahdi, sent to one of his Lieutenants, informing him of the capture of Khartoum and Gordon’s death, saying Gordon, if he had become a Mahomedan, might have been saved.

Emin Pasha’s letter is directed to Sir John Kirk and is not very long, signed Dr Emin Pasha.

Mahdi says Khartoum was taken on a date which corresponds to 29 Jan ‘85. Col Smith also heard of the death of Bishop Parker [?] and Revd xxx on the shores of Lake Victoria. I suppose from fever. They both belonged to the Church Missionary Society.

Col Smith thinks Gordon’s position, if he is still alive, is very precarious, he is a clergyman at Uganda that Mwanga has not murdered. Mwanga is supposed to have 100,000 soldiers and is a great drunkard.

Col Smith showed me a long telegram he has sent to The Times, and he told me his telegram to Government last night cost over 6000 Rupees.

The Sultan signed, more or less under compulsion, the concession to the Germans farming out the Customs for about 800 miles of coast to them.

Great numbers of slaves are on the coast awaiting embarkation and we hear the Arabs are getting great powers inland, and very threatening to the English Missions.

3 May - Thursday

Garnet returned. Her boats made four captures. In towing two of the Dhows back, one sank. She and the Mariner passed each other at sea.

6 May - Sunday

The day being rainy had service in my cabin.

8 May - Tuesday

Left Zanzibar for Mkokotoni where I left two boats for the day, cruising about myself and boarding Dhows, but met with no luck.

9 May - Wednesday

Programme same as yesterday.

10 May - Thursday

Arrived at Pemba this morning, two of the Garnet’s boats came alongside of me, one with Mr Blunt (Mid) in command. A very sharp intelligent young fellow, a water drinker. Mr Kennedy (Mid) reported his boat’s crew for getting drunk. I gave them a good wigging and fright. I went down inside the reefs to Funzi Island and picked up the Helena. Found Hibbert had caught one small Dhow of 12 tons, with 5 slaves who had been hiding in the bush for some time. I took them from motives of humanity but have told officers to use great discretion in receiving slaves, otherwise every slave who was a rogue or a thief would come down to the Boats. It is necessary to use great caution when you are stationed in a country where every labourer and servant is a slave.

ARRIVE MOMBASA

11 May - Friday

This morning, having provisioned my boats for a month, I left for Mombasa, getting here at 4 pm and anchored opposite town, a large sized one. The fort dates from 1635 and was built by the Portuguese.

I proceeded to Frere town on the opposite side of the river, the HQ of the C.M.S. They have a large estate extending 2 to 3 miles, and I was much struck with the very great cleanliness and neatness of the place and general happiness and contentment reigning everywhere.

2 May - Saturday

This morning Rev W Price and Morris came off to call. The latter had just come down from up country (the Tita Mission) where he had been blockaded 10 weeks in his house and only got food surreptitiously at night time, poisoned arrows being shot at the house.

This afternoon Mrs Burness and Miss Fitch came off to tea with me, the latter had a brother working up in the Masai country. He has been up there 2½ years by himself and is coming down here for a change. It is very evident to me that the missionaries at the up country stations literally go about with their lives in their hands.

The acting Wali of Mombasa asked Price if he had seen the new moon, for unless it had been seen by someone, Ramadan cannot commence. Price had not seen it, however I conclude someone has, as the Fort fired guns at sunset this evening.

I saw some of the warlike Masai in the town. They wear blue beads around their neck. There is lots of big game about and close to the town, in the shape of lions, buffaloes, hippos and panthers. A lion was killed in the middle of the settlement about two years ago and there are two on Mombasa Island (3 miles long) on which the town of the same name stands.

The island contains about 30,000 Arabs, Swahilis (Arab fathers and black mothers) and slaves.

The children of the settlement get engaged at age of 12 and marry comparatively young, they find it necessary to allow it. Miss Fitch told me she generally arranges their love affairs.

13 May - Sunday

This morning Ship’s Company went ashore to Frere Town for service, and a nice simple service we had.

The Mail came in and fired a gun during Service, I had the great pleasure of hearing from E.D, Lel and Buz. All well.

In the afternoon I went ashore and had communion at 4.30 service and then took a walk round the settlement with Mr Price and a coloured Clergyman, picking up a good deal of information.

The girls make all their own clothes and the boys also. They get engaged early and marry comparatively young. English is taught to those who are likely to turn out well. There are about 80 girls in the dormitory under Miss Fitch’s care and about the same number of boys under the care of Mr England, schoolmaster. The children come from all parts of the interior, the Masai country and Uganda.

I saw the two girls we caught at Mkokotoni. They looked very happy and contented and said that we treated them so well after the Arabs. At present they are little better than pagans - the young released slaves are first broken in here and then sent to Rabai and Shimba, some remaining and having Shambas given to them. The Swahili service (daily) is always well attended. One of our girls was asleep in her father’s Shamba when the Arabs stole her.

I was much pleased at seeing the Settlement. There is a very nice avenue of Bengal Gold Mohurs, introduced by Mr Price from India; and in the centre of the settlement is a large clear space, surrounded by shaded magnificent mango trees. The bell stands here for tolling to church and striking the time. I saw how the beer is made from the coco nut tree. A branch is cut and the end put into a calabash, secured to it, so the sap drains into it, and when full is taken down and allowed to ferment. The tree does not bear such a good crop of nuts in consequence.

14 May - Monday

This afternoon 150 children, boys and girls, came off to see the ship, all ages and sizes, a large number quite young. Price and Mrs Burness, Mr England and Morris came off with them. I got some men up and put them through rifle exercise firing blanks, and sent them round in parties of 10 to 15 in charge of seedie boys, and they roamed delightedly all over the ship.

After about an hour they all collected on the Quarterdeck and danced some Swahili dances and they sang so well some of Moody and Sanky’s hymns in Swahili, then some glees Three Blind Mice, and then by request some more Hymns, one being Oh how he loves me. Mr England told them that Isa was a great friend to me, and I hoped he was to them also.

It was such a great pleasure seeing all these children enjoying themselves, and my heart was full at hearing them sing of Isa when I remembered they had all been rescued from slavery by our cruisers. I gave some of them a few mementos in the shape of knives and scissors, and altogether I enjoyed it, I expect, as much as the children.

15 May - Tuesday

This morning at 5 am I left the ship in the Steam Pinnace and picking up the Rev Smith and Churchill at Frere Town, proceeded up the river (Rev Mr Jones, Coloured Minister accompanying us - the same who went up with Bishop Hannington) about 8 miles. We landed and walked over undulating country, gradually rising to about 800 ft, along a bridle path until we got to the large settlement of Rabai, so neatly laid out. It is situated in the Wanika Country, a very large settlement, large huts all standing apart with pretty roads running through it in every direction. It took over an hour walking about it; a very fine large church holding about 6 to 700 hundred when floor is packed close. I was pleased with Frere Town, but Rabai quite charmed me, so like in some ways life in an English village.

The settlement is largely composed of the Wanika tribe, many of the tribe building huts, who are not under or belong to the Church Missionary Society. The Wanikas are by no means of a black hue, being brown and very intelligent and bright looking. They rarely have rows and generally take most of their troubles to Mr Jones; the Elders settling secular difficulties. The girls and women only wear a kilt (pleated) with strings of beads around their waist, and broad bracelets around their legs and arms. Certainly their dress looks most picturesque, though scanty. After all it is quite as decent as many dresses worn in a London Ballroom.

I was much pleased at the intelligent features of the Wanika. Mr Jones has Service every morning and generally 2 to 3 hundred attend, sometimes more.

At 0930 he asked me if I would give an address in the church and at 1030 I went in to church and to my utter astonishment found the church full. About 200 men on one side and 60 women, or more, on the other side and I am afraid to say how many children sitting on mats down the centre.

Mr Jones opened the service and Hymns were sung in Swahili and then I spoke for a quarter of an hour on Jesus, what he is to me and to them. Mr Jones interpreting so quietly and so well, and I am thankful to say that God gave me wisdom and power to speak very earnestly. I shall never forget this meeting, so attentive, and singing so heartily. It was indeed a pleasure being there and my heart was full, and tears came into my eyes when the service finished up by Rock of Ages in Swahili, but the same familiar tune.

It was interesting seeing the congregation filing out, most of them had been working in the fields at 0930 - so it speaks for them very well turning up so quickly and in such full force. Many of the Wanikas were there in their kilts, one woman came up and said “I was told we should hear something good and we did, for we heard of Jesus.” I felt so thankful for being permitted to speak to so many.

Rabai is indeed a settlement for Mr Jones to be proud of. A good many of the Wanika have come to live in the settlement, conforming to the rules. Their weapons are a peculiar kind of sword and bow and arrow, the latter being poisoned, meaning certain death in 15 minutes. I purchased specimens of their arms.

The Masai seem to be a terror to everyone, the young bloods being most expert cattle lifters and cut throats. They kill women with the sharp butt end of their spears; and men and women pluck every hair out of their face and body. They are a very fine race physically.

The originating cause of the cruel death of the pages at King Mwanga’s Court was that one of the Christian pages had been told to commit a filthy action with a woman. On his refusing, he and the other native Christians had their arms cut off and then burned at the stake - see Bishops Hannington’s life.

DEPART MOMBASA

20 May - Sunday

Pemba. Arrived here the day before yesterday, picking up all my boats. Shifted berth yesterday morning as I found my stern swung over a patch which I should have touched at low water.

Five more runaway slaves. One of whom a woman, I gave up this morning to her master, an Arab, as after carefully going into her case, I could not find she had been badly treated. I first took securities from the Arab, making him swear on the Koran she would not be ill treated by his mother or wife from whom she had run away, but that she should be in his Harain.

AT ZANZIBAR AND ON LOCAL PATROL

26 May - Saturday

On Monday last I arrived at Zanzibar.

Thursday we kept the Queen’s birthday with all the honours. Euan Smith gave a big dinner and made two very nice little speeches in proposing the Queen’s and Sultan’s health. General Willoughby of the Malagasian Army dined there. He is a tall well made powerful man of about 45, I should say, talks big and is a regular adventurer. After dinner, he with some others, went steeple chasing over sticks, lifting each other and performing various tricks, some very good. He thought to take Kay “out for a walk” but Kay was too much for him, so he made him a confederate at the end of the evening. He told Kay he should not forget his name, and said “I think we must be something like each other in disposition.” A delightful compliment as Kay said to us.

Last Sunday the fisherman in whose huts the slaves were found, came alongside at 9 pm with his wife and two children and said his owner an Arab had sworn to shoot him for giving information to the Englishmen, and begged me to take him away and land him anywhere. So I whipped him, his family and canoe on board and brought them down to Zanzibar, not making the least doubt that Euan Smith would give him free papers. In this I was mistaken, Euan Smith being so anxious to stand in well with the Arabs, makes difficulties. However my honour is pledged, so I wrote a very strong letter about the case and mean to see it through.

The Sultan interviewed the fisherman this afternoon and sent word to Euan Smith he could do what he liked with him. I am very dissatisfied with Euan Smith. He is too anxious to be everything to everyone, as is the Sultan at present.

The men who fired on the Garnet’s boat some six weeks ago were seen by Mr Blunt (Mid) in the Dhows up at Pemba, and on the prison here being searched, it was found that the whole lot had got out. The Sultan, they say, was furious and has sent up to Pemba for them. We shall see if they are caught. None of the slaves at Mbwamaji, or Mkokotoni have been brought in yet, nor are likely to be.

29 May - Tuesday

Last night Jenkings gave a big dinner to English and German Consul General, and Von Horen who is being invalided from the Nautilus. Euan Smith told me he had decided to give the fisherman free papers. I am glad he has, for I was determined to fight it out.

1 May - Thursday

Yesterday, Dutch corvette came in from Natal, Captain of which has come to make a Treaty with the Sultan. Sometimes I find the times go very slowly, especially the evenings and in fact get homesick at times.

I rode out yesterday to the Mission at Umbweni and met Archdeacon and Mrs Hodgson. I was pleased with what I saw. All the Mission people mess together and everything being found, as they only get £20 a year each. Their quarters look very bleak and dreary looking.

2 June - Saturday

I sent my Interpreter to find out what had become of the runaway slaves. He saw them working with the slave gangs in the streets this morning, and spoke to them. They told him their case had not yet been investigated by anyone. On going ashore this morning I mentioned the fact to Colonel Euan Smith, who would not believe it at first, but eventually sent Salim, the head Interpreter, round to the Sultan.

Some of the Mandara tribe danced their war dance, in front of the Consulate, some of them dressed like Red Indians, feathers in their hair.

3 June - Sunday

Rain this morning. Cut my official service short, so after due consideration and earnest prayer I decided to hold a voluntary service in my cabin this afternoon at 5 pm, and am glad to say about 16 came aft.

4 June - Monday

Met Euan Smith out riding this afternoon, who got quite warm in talking about the slaves and his interpreter. However I stuck up for mine and before going off went into Agency and had a chat with him. I can see that I shall have to be very careful in this slave question, for many reasons, but I am determined to carry out my Instructions, endeavouring to do so with tact and discretion.

5 June - Tuesday

Salim and his friend Usuf were sent off by Euan Smith this morning for me to cross examine, which I did. Decided that my man Juma had seen the slaves working in chains. Salim saw them in the prison without chains and the slaves said they had not been in chains. The truth of it really is, as elicited after a long examination, that Juma saw them working in chains and spoke to them. The slaves on returning to the prison probably had their chains taken off, in which condition Salim saw them under the influence and presence of the Jemadar of prison. Naturally they said they had been well treated and not in chains, and Usuf told a lot of lies to Juma about it all.

6 June - Wednesday

This morning having anchored at Mkokotoni last night I passed Garnet on way back, her boats having captured 2 Dhows and 89 slaves. Made my mouth water, for I’d sooner capture 89 slaves than 89 Dhows. A great nuisance missing her, through these diplomats.

7 June - Thursday

Went up to Chati Chati with Berkeley and had an interview with the Wali, a very deaf old man. We had a great Durbar to hear complaints of Hindis and Sultan’s officials, against Hindis. The principal question to settle being that Hindis hire a Surree or slave concubine - she bears them a child - the Arab wants his slave back - Hindi refuses but offers to go on hiring her - Arab objects.

The Hindis have been told that they being British subjects render themselves liable to 7 years penal servitude for hiring slaves and arrangements are to be made at once for the Hindis to purchase the freedom of their concubines, the Wali seeing a fair price only is demanded, about 100 rupees.

It being Ramadan, in the middle of our interview with the Wali he asked if we would adjourn for an hour as he wished to say his prayers. I could not help thinking how many Christian officials would faint at the idea of saying such a thing publicly.

10 June - Sunday

Robbie’s wedding day two years ago. Married at Auckland.

Kay in my cabin, very bad from neuralgia this afternoon, so the voluntary evening service in cabin, for which I had gone to supper earlier, had to be put off and I tolled the bell to read prayers after evening quarters.

Not a soul came aft I am sorry to say. Bluejackets are just like children. I conclude that they imagined I had put it off, so as to have more time to get the boats ready for starting tomorrow morning. However I shall try next Sunday afternoon and trust some will come aft. If not, I must give them up.

11 June - Monday

Arrived at Zanzibar this afternoon. Walked ashore with Jenkings and saw the function and review in front of the Palace, it being the end of Ramadan. After numerous salutes, Mathews’ black soldiers went by, four bands, the Black, Egyptians, Persians and some other playing. Then the irregular troops came marching along, swordsmen prancing in front of the lines and guns going off promiscuously, to the danger of everyone.

The Garnet on going out for target practice a few days ago caught a Dhow with 48 slaves on board, becalmed, and so could not get away. The 89 she caught at Pemba were all packed in a small 12 ton Dhow and had been for five days.

13 June - Wednesday

Mail came in yesterday and I was delighted to get letters from home though I hear Buz has been “gated”, whatever that may be, for not attending chapel - and also I regret to say my Coffee House has not being doing so well as I could wish.

16 June - Saturday

Jenkings and I, after playing lawn tennis, went for a walk and found a poor woman on the ground crying and moaning. She had hurt her leg, though I could not determine what was the matter. However we managed to carry her a quarter of a mile and deposited her safely with some people in huts on Mathews’ Shamba. She was so heavy and fat, I did get hot, making heavy weather of it through the sandy lane.

17 June - Sunday

Rev Clark came off and gave us an excellent address and the Harmonium gave off its dulcet notes. I playing and the men sang very heartily.

After service I put on my war paint and proceeded on board the Nautilus for the funeral service for the late Emperor Frederick. One of the Lieutenants read the service, the men singing funeral hymns; and then the acting Captain gave an address respecting the fine character of the late man. At noon we all squared yards, which we had topped this morning, and the Garnet fired 21 guns in honour of the new Emperor. The German crew gave three cheers and colours were hoisted by our ships and the Germans. After the salute we lowered to half mast again, the Germans remaining right up. The German officers and men took the oath of fealty to the new Emperor and we all adjourned to the cabin and drank to his health. I doing so in soda water.

Clark at luncheon told me a good deal about the cruelty of the Arabs with regard to slaves. Clark asked a lot of questions from one of the boys that Garnet captured, amongst them being what he first recollected in his life. He could not remember his home, he had come from beyond Nyassa and been two years on the journey and had been given in charge of a slave woman in the caravan who had a baby. His first recollection of anything is, the women not being very strong, the Arab came up and said “You are not strong enough to have a baby” and taking it from her dashed its brains out, and on the women clinging to his sleeve, the Arab then said “You will never manage to get to the coast” and straight away put his sword through her.

Clark told me that the Arabs are very depraved, leaving women and taking boys about with them.

The 89 slaves caught by Garnet’s boats were packed in a 9 ton Dhow and had been five days in her packed like sardines. One man died, who had been lying exhausted at the bottom, his face half buried in the water and noisome excreta, though he had come onto the Dhow a strong man.

18 June - Monday

I paid a visit to Mbweni spending the day there with Archdeacon and Mrs Hodgson and enjoyed myself very much. Walked all over the Shamba and looked into the schools. I think there is too much of the Church running through everything, but I find it easy to criticise, so shall stop. No doubt the mission being a very High Church one, tends to prejudice it in my mind.

I had a conversation through the Archdeacon, with a very intelligent slave, one of the 89 Garnet caught. He said for five days they had not moved and one little girl who had tried to get to the gunwale to perform acts of nature, was struck so severely by the Arabs that she died. Two women died in the Dhow from exhaustion.

19 June - Tuesday

Garnet sailed. Found on arriving on board yesterday evening that only 63 tons of coal had been taken on board instead of 75 as I ordered, so had a row and ordered remainder to be taken in today.

20 June - Wednesday

Sailed at daylight this morning intending to go round by the South end of Pemba to Msuka Bay, but finding the sea much too heavy, up anchor and came round the West side, communicating with Mr Job in the Helena, on the way. He tells me that Blagdon has caught a Dhow. Until I’ve investigated the case feel sceptical as to Blagdon’s having a good case.

Anchored Msuka Bay. Much annoyed by Drum Fish making a great row under the stern, so ordered Quartermaster to frighten them away in order that I might get some sleep. Then the new kitten came round my cabin whining and I imagined every minute she was going to jump on me - how we let our imaginations run riot.

21 June - Thursday

Steamed 23 miles in Steam Cutter today, having a look round the place.

Cannot find Jim, my pet chameleon - cat is in my storeroom, too wild to be caught - sure I shall be woke up tonight.

23 June - Saturday

Left Msuka bay this morning and came down to Owens Channel picking up my boats. On examination found that Blagdon had missed two Dhows carrying slaves, through being too lazy to get underway in the middle of the night. Spoke very sharply to him.

Got underway and through Machine Prize Firing, and made a start for Mkokotoni, leaving two small boats behind only. Arrived at Mkokotoni 11 pm and seeing two Dhows at anchor sent Cutter away to board them, telling them to anchor and sleep for the night.

24 June - Sunday

25 June - Monday

Weighed at 4 am this morning, steamed down to Zanzibar.

Anchored and rushed ashore to see the Consul General, who suggested holding a Court at once. Agreed. Bundled slaves ashore and at 11 am Dhow condemned and slaves freed.

I left Zanzibar at 1130, went through the Western passage and anchored this evening off sand bank. I have given the Cutter’s crew £5, as I told them I would, to the first boat catching over 25 slaves, and £10 over 60. Now I intend giving a rupee for each slave caught.

26 June - Tuesday

Accomplished the Prize Firing this forenoon, direction very good, elevation bad, owing I am afraid, to sand having a glimmer on it. Dispatched Hibbert in Cutter for a cruise on the Mainland and on to Pemba. Anchored off Bawi Island for the night.

27 June - Wednesday

Arrived at Pemba this afternoon and collected Boats - beastly day.

28 June - Thursday

Despatched Helena and Cutter to the South end of Pemba; such a filthy day. Thermometer down to 74. Feel a little bored at times and dull being by myself so much. I am afraid it shows. I must be bad company.

29 June - Friday

Anniversary of my loved Mother’s death 13 years ago, the remembrance of which is as green as ever in my memory.

Kay, I suppose annoyed at being away from Zanzibar, rather personal when talking quietly to him on the slave trade.

30 June - Saturday

Paid a visit to Weti in the Steam Cutter.

1 July - Sunday

Hibbert returned in the Cutter from the mainland. He had a bad time of it, such rough weather.

2 July - Monday

Returned to Zanzibar and dined with Arbuthnot (Mariner).

3 July - Tuesday

Drove out to Mission at Mbweni with Col Euan Smith and Arbuthnot. Had a chat with the Hodgsons and Miss Bennet, and dined at Agency.

4 July - Wednesday

Started for Pemba this evening and in coming in to anchor, it being a new anchorage, very nearly got on shore, with a falling tide having only ½2 fm i.e. fifteen feet. It must have been a little more as ship draws 16 feet. It made me very uncomfortable for five minutes. Davenport certainly lacks judgement and sometimes is very self opiniated.

Had a curious dream last night, dreaming that the ship was at anchor and wind coming on, drove her ashore. I wonder if this was a vision vouchsafed to me.

6 July - Friday

Yesterday I went ashore for a walk and was surprised at the number of clove trees. They are planted 15 feet apart and have a strong smell. The cloves grow in clusters from 10 to 20 on each sprig. Some of the trees are over 30 ft high.

Bought a native musical instrument for 1 Rupee.

7 July - Saturday

Left last night in the Steam Cutter at 7 30 pm and steamed about during the night in the hopes of capturing some Dhows, that I had received information about. But they did not come over, the wind failing so I returned at 8 30 am, fagged out and empty handed.

Kay (Pay) went in the whaler, watching Tondoni Gap. Hibbert watching Fundu Gap in Cutter and I patrolling about outside.

9 July - Monday

Left Pemba this afternoon and arrived off Mkokotoni 9 pm. I heard before leaving that a Dhow had landed 45 slaves at Kigomasha Point last Friday night. If only there had been more wind there is no doubt she would have endeavoured to enter the gaps and we should have caught her.

10 July - Tuesday

Came in to Zanzibar this forenoon, found Mariner and Griffon in, also German Möwe. Mr Davies died last Wednesday and one of the Germans the next day.

13 July - Friday

Dined with the Euan Smiths and had a talk with Rev Price on taking the Pledge, he not agreeing thereto.

Just as I was turning in I looked through the Port and spied the Garnet coming in, with the Private Signals up. I rushed on deck and had a regular row because she had not been seen, and on her anchoring went on board and had a yarn with Jenkings.

15 July - Sunday

Price came off and took the service for me, after which he stopped to lunch and told me a good deal about the Mission at Uganda and how Lourdel the Jesuit there is working against them, saying to Mwanga “You are all right for five years, but then the Germans and the English will eat up the country”, so Mwanga openly says that he keeps Gordon and xxx as hostages. There is no doubt that their lives hang on a thread.

Price told me two of the Germans connected with the German Company went up to Kilimanjaro and the first thing they did was to get a sourire each from Mandara, who turned to Fitch, the CMS missionary, and said “You white men talk about putting down the slave trade and when you want concubines you buy them.”

Euan Smith has written to Lord Salisbury saying he thinks the Missionaries should be withdrawn from the interior, but Price agrees with me that it would be a great mistake to do so, thus leaving the converts in the lurch. Euan Smith thinks a great deal too much of restoring the English prestige and sacrificing the strict enforcement of the slave trade, in my opinion.

18 July - Wednesday

Formed a Court of enquiry with Captain Jenkings on the grounding of the Mariner; took 3½ hours over it. Captain Jenkings concurred in my view of the matter and report.

19 July - Thursday

The Sultan’s yacht Glasgow got underway this morning, the first time for years and her engines not moving, fouled the Möwe and carried away the Gib Boom of the latter.

Shortly afterwards the German Squadron of Corvettes, Sophie bearing the Commodore’s flag, Olga, and Carola came in from Singapore.

20 July - Friday

Called on the German ships and left this afternoon for Mkokotoni.

22 July - Sunday

Arrived at Pemba yesterday and picked up all my boats. Found two Dhows had been captured and 14 slaves.

Mr Job was cruising in the Helena at 11 pm last Tuesday and saw a Dhow sweeping in. There being no wind he detached the Punt with 2 Hands and Interpreter to board her. On the Punt nearing, and firing a revolver as signal to call attention to stop, the Dhow poured in a volley from six Enfields. Unfortunately the men in the Punt had only their revolvers and no spare ammunition, so on Dhow running ashore, having emptied their revolvers, they did not think it safe to land in the bush, especially as the Arabs kept up a fusillade from the shore.

The Dhow was got off the next day by Mr Job. A few days afterwards he chased another Dhow which managed to land some 80 slaves just before he got to her, and the next day Lieut Hibbert having landed, some miles off from the place where Dhow ran ashore, for a walk, suddenly came on some Arabs and 14 slaves. The former bolted on seeing Hibbert who appropriated the slaves.

On examining them I found they had been in the Dhow run ashore the previous day. They stated they left Bagamoyo in the night and took two days to come across in the middle of the night. They must have come across our galley, evidently keeping a bad lookout, and stood out to sea, running in in the early morning.

23 July - Monday

Returned to Zanzibar with Helena and Dhow. Knocked about a good deal there being a heavy sea.

24 July - Tuesday

Two Dhows and 14 slaves condemned in the Admiralty Court, representing £471 to the Ship, £47 coming to me.

26 July - Thursday

Dar-es Salam. Went up river his afternoon some 8 miles in whaler with Stanhope, Hibbert and Kay to have a shot at Hippopotami. Saw none.

28 July - Saturday

Anchored off Bawi and getting boats ready for sending to Pemba this afternoon.

29 July - Sunday

Just two years ago at 1 am my loved father left us leaving such a blank. I seem to miss my dear parents more and more, I suppose having to fill their place with regard to the rest of the family brings it home to me. It makes me depressed at times, but this may be the Lord’s way of drawing me nearer to him. I long for Christian fellowship so much, having no one to talk to on board.

Had Rock of Ages this morning at Service, the hymn we always had after Sunday evening prayers at The Elms, which Father liked so much.

Captain Stranch of the Olga on seeing the print of my Father, said he had often heard of him, a very distinguished man.

31 July - Tuesday

I left Bawi island yesterday morning and steamed slowly during the night. This morning we could not make out where we were. Davenport, as usual, very self opiniated as to our position. However I took my own way and eventually we sighted some trees out of the water, which I thought must be Niororo Island, Davenport declaring it must be the northern end of Mafia. However I sounded and found I was right and if I had gone as Davenport wanted me to I should have probably gone on the Vulture Rock. We found a 3 knot current had set us up 33 miles in 10 hours.

Anchored off Barakuni Island, and four of us going to it, and stationing ourselves round it, knocked over 100 pigeons in a little over an hour.

1 August - Wednesday

Went in Steam Cutter up river or bay, after Hippos. Saw one and fired volleys into him, and I think he must have been killed as he did not rise again. Landing after a wearisome march in the hot sun, the niggers being so vague in their directions, we arrived at a pool about 300 yards round and were soon firing at a couple of Hippos, who however became very wary and hardly showed anything but their nose above water, when they came up to breathe. I do not think we succeeded in harming them - a Martini Henry bullet will not penetrate their hide.

2 August - Thursday

Donnelly AB got a bad attack of fever and enlarged liver through boat cruising.

Shot pigeons this afternoon.

I have a bad attack of influenza.

3 August - Friday

Last night at 9 pm the Doctor told me he did not think that Donnelly would get thru the night. I went forward and saw him in great pain, hardly able to speak, through liver pressing on the lungs. I spoke a few words to him on looking to Jesus and had a little prayer. Did not sleep much during the night thinking of him. Before turning in I had a very earnest prayer and made an appeal to the Lord Jesus to give him relief and spare him his life, and that he might believe, for he is nominally a RC, but I am told has not much religion of any sort. He began to mend and I feel and know for certain my prayer was heard. I made a vow unto the Lord. Give me strength to keep it.

4 August - Saturday

Left Mafia at 4 am and arrived at Zanzibar at 5 pm, having come up, as Doctor said if Donnelly could be taken to Hospital, he would stand a much better chance of recovery.

5 August - Sunday

Had a walk with Jenkings yesterday and dined with him in the evening.

He showed me the charter of the German Company and to put it into a few words, the company have sovereign rights of every kind from the Ruvuma River to the Umba, over the Marinha, the only condition being that everything is to be done in the Sultan’s name and under his flag. But as the Germans appoint the Walis and are already negotiating with us for our ships to communicate direct with the Germans on the littoral, so as to increase their influence, it is very evident to me that before the 50 years are up, and before very long, the German Flag will be waving along the coast.

The Sultan receives all the Customs less working expenses and 5%, the first year. After which an average is taken and any increase over it, he receives 50%, the company receiving 170,000 Rupees for working expenses, if it costs less refunding the balance. The Company have the option every 3 years of altering the average. They commence work on the 15th of this month. The English commence next month on their ground. The Germans say nothing in their Treaty about the Slave Trade, helping to suppress it, which the English do; the latter having subscribed £250,000.

6 August - Monday

Mariner came in this evening bringing 5 Arabs, sent down by Lt Hibbert, who took them with 106 slaves on Saturday last, becalmed.

8 August - Wednesday

Mail came in bringing me such a budget and am thankful to say that all is well. Baldwin Walker given me his nomination for Harry Grogan, and writing a very nice letter.

9 August - Thursday

Sent 4 Seedies up to look after slaves, who are picnicking on an island up at Pemba. They went up by the Griffon.

Garnet and German Carola and Olga went out.

Went with Arbuthnot to Custom House and saw slaves unloading lighters, and had a look at hundreds of tusks, some very large, up to 118 lbs; value from 8 to 9 Rupees a lb. Already 24,000 tusks representing 12,000 elephants have gone through Custom House. Duty is 10%.

Nichol of British India told me they had sold about 2000 arms, and Oswald 5000 and others also, to Arabs for the Interior.

14 August - Tuesday

This is my 38th birthday and I thank God for his goodness to me both spiritually and temporally. This time last year I had just gone on half pay, with many cares and money anxieties and fearing difficulties in the future. Now I find myself in command of a capital little ship and in a fairly good climate, and with every prospect of saving enough out of my pay to relieve me of further anxiety with regard to the girls for several years. I do thank God and pray I may always remember His great mercies and love towards me and mine,

I left Zanzibar yesterday forenoon and anchored at Mkokotoni for the night, getting underway this morning for a short cruise; and tomorrow I go to Pemba for the boats.

15 August - Wednesday

On arrival at Pemba Hibbert made a signal that he had a wounded man on board, and on coming alongside I found Maynard AB had accidentally shot himself by his revolver going off, the bullet entering under his right breast and coming out behind, evidently going round a rib. It happened on Monday last and Hibbert had sent the Cutter over to Tanga on the mainland, hoping to find me there.

I remained at Pemba for the night.

Ted’s birthday.

17 August - Friday

Proceeded to Tanga yesterday and found Cutter there. Remained for the night and returning to Pemba without anchoring, picked up boats and steamed over to Mkokotoni.

When about 10 miles off I saw a Dhow, apparently outside Zanzibar Island, standing in. Feeling a little bit suspicious at seeing her sailing on that course I pegged ahead as fast as I could with Helena in tow. The Dhow turning the reef made up Mkokotoni harbour, about 5 miles off and we saw her through our glasses using sweeps. As we pegged up the harbour, and we could see the sweeps had been taken in when about 2 miles off. Evidently she hoped we would not suspect her, so I made no sign of cutting her off, until I got abreast of her as I was so afraid of her running on shore which was close to them.

Suddenly I stopped, lowered a boat, and Hibbert went after her. I had no sooner stopped than a canoe was seen to leave the Dhow, 6 men in her, and make for the shore, which she reached before the whaler. A most exciting chase took place over the coral, about 400 yards in the water and a mile on the dry coral. The Dhows crew had 400 yards start and off they went for the bush. Hibbert headed our men and we were most excited at seeing the chase. I fired a rifle to stop them getting ahead of fugitives. They all disappeared into the bush and I sent another boat and brought a good fat Dhow alongside, containing 28 slaves. Hibbert returned having collared one of the fugitives, a slave. They had a tremendous run over the coral in their bare feet.

20 August - Monday

Arrived at Zanzibar and found Garnet had gone to meet the Admiral off Cape Delgado, with the mails, leaving Stork here. Mariner and Griffon came in.

Heard of Donnelly’s death last Saturday morning. He was conscious up to the last and knew for some time previously that he was dying.

21 August - Tuesday

Slaves still on board. I have put all the women in the Dhow astern.

Garnet and Algerine came in. Admiral expected tomorrow. I had not seen Forsyth of the Algerine since we had been in the Britannia together in 1864.

22 August - Wednesday

The Boadicea came in this morning and I saw the Admiral at 10 am. He was very pleased to see me, we had a chat over the slave trade, and again this afternoon he signalled for me and I was closeted with him some time, reading my letter. He takes much interest in it.

I hear the Germans are carrying matters with a very high hand on the mainland, and at Bagamoyo and Pangani have already had a good deal of friction with the Arabs. Mathews told me as a fact that the Germans were buying slaves themselves.

23 August - Thursday

Dined last night with the Admiral, sitting next Curzon and Howe whom I had not seen since the Britannia days, our chests were next to each other.

After dinner the Griffon and I, according to sealed orders’ got under way. I was up all night and anchored at Mkokotoni at 3 30 am, and at 8 am got underway, leaving a Dhow behind, manned and armed under the command of Mr Trick.

At 1 pm reached Pemba, dropped 4 boats under Mr Job and came over to Tanga where D.V. I intend remaining until Wednesday next.

26 August - Sunday

Friday last went up the river some miles in the Steam Cutter with Hibbert and Kay, saw a few crocodiles and monkeys.

Saturday, laid up with a terrific attack of inflammation of the eyes and nose from using cocaine last might, when I only had a slight attack. I used it to get temporary relief and suffered ten times worse from the reaction.

Had a short service in my cabin after supper and spoke a few words to those present. Through so many being away in boats and on leave ashore, I had only ten present.

29 August - Wednesday

Still bad with inflamed eyes and nose, most trying and depressing; quite lays me up and am only just able to keep myself from being quite prostrated. Spend most of my time with my eyes closed and reclining in chair. No doubt this affliction is to serve some good purpose. I pray for patience.

30 August - Thursday

Returned to Zanzibar. On arrival signal made by the Admiral that he intended to inspect the ship on Saturday.

1 September - Saturday

Admiral came on board this morning at 6 am, remaining until 9 45 going through all the drills which went off very well, the men working very quietly. At 10 am he returned to the ship and remained on board until 1 pm, inspecting the ship. Everything was very clean and especially the Engine Room, which considering we were only steaming 36 hours previously was very creditable, and the Admiral took note of it. He wrote me a private note saying he was very pleased with the inspection.

2 September - Sunday

Took Holy Communion on board Boadicea. Glad to see so many men there and three Mids.

3 September - Monday

The afternoon was spent in strolling about listening to the Band and bathing in the numerous large swimming baths, hot and cold, in precincts of the Palace, and enjoying ourselves on the steam Merry - go - round, erected by the late Sultan Barghash, for the ladies of his Hareem, who used to come out and spend some happy days at Chipani.

At 7 30 pm a big dinner, toasts drunk, the Sultan’s with all honour. The Rev Dogherty of Garnet got up, and primed well with Champagne, made a most fulsome speech regarding the Admiral, who I am sorry to say rose to the fly and made a long reply. At 10 30 we returned.

4 September - Tuesday

First day of the Regatta. Our boats did not shine out very much, though Hibbert won the Skiff race very well. I lunched with the Admiral meeting Mission people there.

5 September - Wednesday

The pulling races came off and the Flag Ships boats being newer and not sodden, as all those belonging to the small ships are, won nearly every prize. Dined with Arbuthnot, meeting Euan Smith and the Admiral. Some singing, comic, and a play ... [?] by the men, lasting from 8.30 until 11 pm. The play (save the mark) was a mixture of Bottom’s Play and Dumb Crambo - most tedious.

6 September - Thursday

Sailed for the Admiral’s Cup, thirty boats started. I was second most of the way in my old whaler, service rig, but wind falling light I came a good fifth - very sunburnt.

Euan Smith told me of Herr Vohsen having been shot at over in Pangani. The Germans will have much trouble yet from the Arabs.

The Griffon boarded a Dhow at Pemba, flying French Colours. She had 75 slaves on board at the time, and yet nothing could be done.

10 September - Monday

Called on the German Admiral, but did not see him, as he was in a very bad humour - so the Flag Captain told me and the Baron spun the same yarn. I heard afterwards that he was hissed on the beach, on landing this morning, to call on the Sultan.

I had a long yarn with the Flag Captain (Strausch) and also with Von Erhardt (the Baron) on board Möwe with regard to the mess the German Company have made of it, on the coast. Pangani is full of armed men and Mathews is over there quietening them down, but the Germans will not be able to go there for a long time. They have made a regular mess of it with their bullying and masterful manner and nonsense about the Flag, hauling down the Sultan’s.

15 Sept - Saturday

Dined last night on board the Leipzig, with Admiral Deinhard; a big dinner of 24; sat next Herr Vohsen, very enraged at the treatment of the Germans by the Arabs and panting for revenge, but I doubt if Bismarck uses force, and I am strongly of the opinion that the German Company is finished.

Herr Vohsen is a clever man, energetic, but too ambitious and overleaps himself at the same time. I am sorry for him as he is hunted all round, his own Admiral and Naval men looking down on him, as he is only a merchant and he has wretched tools to work, and start a big business with. We did not get away from the ship until midnight. I had a nice little chat with my friend the Baron viz. Captain von Erhardt of the Möwe, soon to be of the Olga. We mutually agreed that our Lord had done so much for us, we could not do too much for him,

19 September - Wednesday

On Monday last we all left Zanzibar and on getting outside went through Steam Evolutions. Garnet very soon broke down and had to make for the nearest shoal under sail. I being the second in the lee line was ordered to close up and thus led the lee line, though junior in the fleet. We spent all day going through evolutions and in the evening made sail. I managed to get through the whole day without one signal being made to keep station.

On Tuesday, having anchored at Mkokotoni for the night, we got underway and fired at targets all the Forenoon, and returned to Zanzibar in the evening. The Algerine parted company for a six weeks cruise in the Mozambique. The Admiral heard by telegram of the Osprey having made a capture of 200 slaves, and three Dhows in the Gulf of Aden.

22 September - Saturday

Last Wednesday Admiral Fremantle gave a dinner to 24, including the German Admiral.

On Thursday he made a signal for me and said he intended sending me to Kilwa and Lindi to make a report on French Dhows running slaves, so I suggested that I might as well go on to the Mauritius. He fell into my views and the upshot of it was that a cruise was arranged, to go from Lindi to Mayotta, on to Mauritius to give leave, making a stay there of 14 days, then to Tamatave to report how political matters are there, round to Majunga on the NW coast of Madagascar, then to Mozambique, returning to Zanzibar at the end of November. Thus, DV, we shall be away about two months.

Yesterday I left Zanzibar and picked up my boats this morning.

DEPART ZANZIBAR

AT KILWA AND LINDI

28 September - Friday

From Lindi to Mayotta. On Monday last [24th] I arrived at Kilwa and found the German Man of War Möwe at anchor. The Acting Captain came on board and told me that he had been there since Saturday during which time incessant firing had been going on in the town, until 10 am that day; when it suddenly ceased and both the German Company’s and Sultan’s Flag had been hauled down. He knew nothing about the two Germans on shore.

I at once proceeded to an English Dhow at anchor off the beach some 400 yds, which was crowded with armed men and learnt the news from the crew of the Dhow, viz. that on the preceding Friday, the Kilwa people had gone to the two Germans and demanded the Sultan’s flag, to hoist on its old staff, and also that they should clear out in 48 hours. They then went to the mosque, took an oath that no German should live on the coast and at 1 pm returned and found that the Germans had barricaded their door. An altercation took place and firing soon became general, one of the Germans taking the lead, they had 8 servants to help them.

From Friday until Monday morning firing went on, 11 Kilwa people being killed and 7 wounded, the leading German, a very plucky chap, also being wounded and one of their servants killed. At 9 am on Monday the leading German was in the garden and was shot down by a man up a cocoa nut tree, the other German then shot himself and the servants rushed out, of whom four were killed and three hid in the bush, eventually getting off to Penguin on Tuesday night.

I had urged the Möwe to go at once to Lindi and Mikindani and get hold of the Germans there as I was convinced it was a regular plot right along the coast. So she left on Monday evening, returning on Wednesday, but finding the Germans had escaped in the meantime on Tuesday.

I had a long interview with a deputation of British subjects, accompanied by some of the leading Kilwa men. The former came to me for advice and I suppose the latter wanted to see what I thought of it all, and also to hear what the Hindis would say, and act as a kind of watch dog over them, as they had the day before, at my first visit to the Dhow.

The Kilwa people said they had taken my advice and hoisted the Sultan’s Flag. I said. “You must clearly understand I do not intend mixing myself up in the least with your affairs. My business is only with the British subjects, and though you have asked me to come on shore and meet them at the Custom House, assuring me of my safety, of which I am well assured, yet, I shall not land for fear that the Germans or Arabs should think I am poking my nose into this affair. On meeting you yesterday I asked what Flag you intended flying and you said you intended hoisting the Sultan’s.”

I asked for the private effects of the two Germans killed, but failed to get them, The Kilwa men spoke of the Germans in a most bitter way. I reassured the Hindis that the Kilwa men said their quarrel was only with the Germans and not the English and the Hindis and Banyans had nothing to fear, and they promised the trade should go on as usual, which it did on Wednesday.

On Wednesday morning I saw a Dhow come in flying the German Co. Flag and making for the town, so I sent a boat to intercept her, which she did in time, and brought her alongside. She had Herr Von Bulow and another German on board from Mikindani, who had just managed to escape with their lives, being fired at, and as the Dhow contained 10,000 lbs of gunpowder, it was not pleasant. Von Bulow is a Lieut in the Grenadier Guards.

Last night three of the servants came on board. They had been concealed since Monday, the other five had been killed; they gave me a very graphic account of the fight.

Soon after the Dhow came in the Möwe arrived and I left for Lindi, meeting outside another Dhow which I chased and found it to contain the two Germans from Lindi, I gave them a tow up and arrived at Lindi next forenoon, finding both flags flying. I soon had a visit from some Hindis who told me everything was quiet; that an Arab chief was in charge of the German stores and the Akida, who had been heavily bribed, was quiet at present, but being a regular scoundrel, was not to be trusted. They advised me not to go ashore.

At Mikindani there are 15,000 armed men and they had looted the German stores.

I left Lindi at 4 pm and met the German corvette Sophie coming in. I made a signal to her and she sent a Lieut to me. I gave her the news and found she had just come from Bagamoyo, where fighting had been going on - 100 natives killed, no Germans.

29 September - Saturday

Up all last night, finding such strong currents about, took any amount of sights. Made my eyes very sore. All today laying to off Comoro and Mohilla Islands. I am going on tonight. Comoro over 8500 feet high and such a mass for the size of the Island.

12 October - Friday

A long way behind in my journal and hard to write it up.

Steaming 75 revs a minute.

AT MAYOTTA

On Sunday, 30th Sept I anchored at Mayotta, inside a lot of coral reefs, and next day called on M. Papineaud, the French Governor, who returned my visit that afternoon, bringing Madame with him. They had tea on board and looked round the ship.

Tuesday. Stanhope, Hibbert and I dined with M. Papineaud, Madame having a slight touch of fever and being, as she informed me, in an interesting condition, left the table in the middle of dinner.

After dinner M. Papineaud amused us very much telling stories of his official life, commencing as Mayor, then a member of the Council General and finally Deputy. He told us what a lot of officials there were for everything and how everyone wanted something. He is evidently a sharp fellow and knows human nature well.

The French Mail coming in on Thursday morning. I received our mails and made a start for the Mauritius. I got a heap of letters and am thankful to say all well. Coffee House not doing well and I suppose I shall have to pay in something very soon.

On Friday 6th I experienced a very heavy sea and strong Trade from the SE with a 4 knot current flowing from the Westward and after fighting against it until Monday, under steam and sail, I had to give up and bear up for the Seychelles to leeward, which I reached on Wednesday, finding the Audacious there on her way back from China.

ARRIVE SEYCHELLES

I dined at Government House the same evening, taking in Mrs West, a very pretty Mauritian lady, married to West, the Chief Officer of Police, and sat next to Mrs Brown, wife of the Acting Chief Commissioner (Judge Brown), Bartly having gone home, suffering from Diabetes. Neither of my neighbours could speak a word of English, however I managed to get along somehow in French.

Had a yarn with Captain Warren who breakfasted with me next morning before sailing. Gave him three cheers, which he returned. Allen the 1st Lieut was a Mid in Minotaur with me 1/68-1/69.

At 5 pm we had taken on 115 tons of good Welch Coal. I had several visitors off, one a M. Langlois, to whom I gave a passage last March over to Fraslin Island; brought me a packet of Vanillas as a souvenir, a most valuable present. I made some calls on shore, on Dr Brooks, whose son is in the Admiralty, Secretary to Admiral Hotham, on the Wests, and Ross’ of Oriental Bank and then at Government House, made my Adios.

Then on to the Harbourmaster, Captain Manton, to ask him about the passage to Mauritius as he has had 16 years experience of it. I arrived at his house just as his good lady was being confined of twins, the first, a girl, having appeared. I did not know whether to congratulate or not, but wanted to beat a hasty retreat. Though in a state of great nervousness he would not let me go, so we sat down and had a good yarn which did him good, the lady going on well.

Last night the French Doctor told me a romantic story. Early this year an albatross was shot on the West coast of Australia and round its neck was tied a piece of tin upon which was written a short account of the shipwreck of a French barque on one of the Crozet Islands. The news was telegraphed home to the French Government, who ordered the Meurthe from Madagascar to go down and rescue them. They went down and had very stormy weather and on reaching the Island found the hut empty and a statement saying that they had exhausted all the provisions during the winter, which had been very cold - 5 deg below zero - and had gone to the next island 80 miles off (for the Comus, one of our ships some time ago, had erected on these stormy islands huts and stored them with provisions in case of ships being wrecked on them). The Meurthe went to the next island, but found no signs of them, so the poor fellows must have been lost making the passage.

I left this morning for the Mauritius first having received a present of some orchids from the Wests, and as I thought some ducks and 2 sucking pigs also, for which, I wrote and thanked them. But on getting to sea it turned out the ducks had been ordered by our Warrant Officers.

DEPART SEYCHELLES

14 October - Sunday

Last night just as I was commencing dinner the Doctor came in, saying Martin. Ord. had fallen from aloft and been killed, poor fellow. On enquiry, found he had been putting on chafing gear and coming down on the lee side, over the Fore Yard, had evidently missed his hold. He fell on his head and was killed at once. This morning he was buried on a sailor’s grave. I read the service over him. I long to be more active and have more faith in the Lord and his word.

ARRIVE MAURITIUS

24 October - Wednesday

Bishopthorpe. Mauritius. This day last week I arrived at Mauritius and intend staying until tomorrow week, Since our arrival everyone has been most kind. My Headquarters being here the house of the Bishop of Mauritius, Dr Royston, who with Mrs and Miss Royston are most kind and hospitable. They very kindly placed the Pavilion, a detached room in the grounds, at my disposal. On Thursday last I attended a meeting of the Bible and Foreign Society, Colonel Hall taking the Chair. The room (Masonic Lodge) was very full and addresses were made in English, French, Hindi and Tamil to suit the mixed audience. I spoke a few words.

On Saturday I went up by rail to Midlands to see the sugar estate, by invitation from Mr Wemyss and Mr Ferguson.

29 October - Monday

Staying at the Fergusons - a pretty place. On Wednesday last dined with and slept at the Wemyss, meeting several people there; one a Miss Mathews, a pretty girl and sings nicely. On Thursday returned to Bishopthorpe and met the Irelands and Frasers, both very pleasant. Fraser is cousin to Fraser in Boadicea and brother to one in Imperieuse, and of course knows the Grogans.

Friday last paid a visit to Dr Meldrum at the Observatory, where I spent several hours being much interested in everything. Observations very clearly showed the identity and coincidence of the Maxima and Min. of Declination, Aurora Borealis, Solar Sun Spots, the period being 11 years. Also that the Max. and Min. of Sun Spots and Rainfall Curves correspond for Globe and generally everywhere. Again that Sun Spot, Cyclone and River Curves correspond. The maximum depth of Rivers in Europe corresponded to the time the Sun Spots were at Max.

Saturday. I paid a visit to the Rev Mr Harris [?] and had a look at the orphanage and spoke a few words to the children. That afternoon came on to this place; attended Moka Church yesterday morning and heard Mr Davis preach a barren and uninteresting sermon; nothing to take away. I have been very .....

DEPART MAURITIUS

2 November - Friday

Steaming to Tamatave passed Bourbon this morning some 80 miles off, having left Mauritius last night. Tuesday last I dined and slept at the Irelands and Wednesday returned to the ship and that evening attended a meeting at the Temperance Institute, got up by Cockayne and the Good Templars. Archdeacon Mathews took the chair (a most excellent hard working clergyman). I gave a Gospel Temperance address for about ¼ hour, which was well received. At the end Cockayne proposed a vote of thanks to me and spoke so nicely of dear old father. It was seconded by an old sea captain who also quoted the story of how dear father became a TT.

On Wednesday (yesterday ) I went up to the Bishops and lunched there and at about 2 pm, 30 of our men came up by invitation, the Bishop and Mrs Royston receiving them, and about 15 young ladies being there to assist. In the Drawing room they soon set to work and began singing songs, with good choruses, the ladies and men singing the solos alternatively. At 3:30 they sat down with the Bishop to a most substantial meal, the ladies waiting on them, after which they asked me, on my coming in, to return thanks, which I did, and made a neat little hit by quoting Shakespeare’s lines about sailors being so inconstant, “one foot on the sea”, but I added there is an exception to every rule and one thing sailors are constant in and that is their admiration for the ladies.

Dined and slept at the Frasers. They are certainly, with the Irelands, the nicest people in the Island.

Yesterday I came down to the ship and at 2 rushed out to the Pamplemousses Gardens, meeting Scott who showed me over them and also gave me some of General Gordon’s letters to read, and showed me his paintings of the Cocos-de-Mer, and one in which the serpent was creeping up, Eve standing at the foot of a tree. He told me Gordon was fond of talking of the mysteries of the Bible and disliked company very much. I think from all I have heard of Gordon, that he must have been a very earnest Christian man of great faith, slightly tinged with mysticism and fatalism.

Sailed last night at 6 pm and stopped steaming this afternoon. Making sail, light trade wind and swell from the SW.

ARRIVE TAMATAVE, MADAGASCAR

6 November - Tuesday

Tamatave. Arrived here yesterday afternoon and found the French man of war Meurthe in. Called on her this morning, and last night went ashore to see our acting Consul, Aitken, but found he had gone up to the Capital, and Mr Sanzier, Vice Consul and Judge in charge. A very intelligent person. I was soon in the thick of Malagashy politics.

This afternoon I and three officers landed and changing at the Consulate into Epaulettes, Cocked hats etc. At 3 pm were ready to start for a call on the Governor. Music was heard in the distance and the band stopped outside the gates and some Malagashy Officers stepped in and made a lot of polite messages, after which we all got into palanquins and headed by about 50 soldiers and band, we marched through the streets. First three pairs of palanquins, containing Hora officers, then our Officers and myself and Vice Consul bring up the rear, with a guard of soldiers.

We passed through admiring crowds and sandy streets until we got to the Fort and then dismounting, were ushered into Governor’s presence. A fine looking chap (that gave the French so much trouble) and sitting down we drank the health of our Queens and of each other, I in water, the rest in Champagne. After paying each other compliments we parted. I liked the Governor’s face. A regular Malay cast of features. He is a Christian and was educated in the Mission school of the London M.S.

None of the Governors or soldiers get a fraction of pay and have to live by their wits. Of course this leads to anything and everything and all kind of abuses. The Horas are most immoral, their Christianity as a rule, and as in many other countries, only skin deep. Very oppressive to the subject tribes, not truthful, very astute and sharp and cowards. By no means the interesting race most people take them to be.

Present Queen a decent young woman of 25. Her husband the Prime Minister is 65, very clever, but tottering to his fall through inordinate affection for his worthless sons. He has been banishing many of his political opponents, but there is much uncertainty in the Capital as to what is going to occur. It seems hard on the Queen, the Prime Minister must always be her husband.

The French seem to be getting a stronger hold of the country and are working more diplomatically than before. Evidently England has been leaving Madagascar entirely to the French, as Zanzibar to the Germans on account of Egypt.

It is 18 months since a man of war has been here and very glad everyone is to see the Flag again. Great rows going on about Mr Knott - Vice Consul at Majunga. Horas refusing to recognise him as our Vice Consul. The fact is we should have regular paid Consuls, at any rate in the Capital, and not Vice Consuls who are mixed up in trade and have got no diplomatic training.

Called on Mrs Leavitt, the great woman T.T. lecturer and Mrs Houlder, L.M.S. Missionary, who gave me a lot of information regarding the slave trade, the inland trade going on to a very great extent.

7 November - Wednesday

This morning the Governor’s suite came off and were received by Officers and Guard. We went to General Quarters and His Excellency went round the ship and was much impressed, then toasts in the cabin and I requested a message might be sent to the Queen and Prime Minister conveying my respects, and I presented a photo of the ship to HE. He went away under salute of 15 guns, very well pleased with everything.

This afternoon Mrs Leavitt, Secretary to the World’s Christian Temperance Association (Women), came off with me and on the Quarterdeck sang the ninety nine and then gave a Temperance Address, which was listened to attentively by Officers and men. The meeting was closed by our singing the Hymn Beautiful words of Life, I playing the Harmonium. After which in my cabin, whilst having a chat with Mrs Leavitt, she told me she had often mentioned a Naval Captain of his reasons for taking the Pledge and I perceived it was my dear father she was speaking of, and told her so, much to her surprise.

Mr Houlder, L.M.S. came off also. To show how stories are told about Missionaries with no truth in them. Yesterday Mr Patterson, a merchant on shore here, talking said disparagingly of Missionaries. “Look at Mr Houlder here, building one of the finest houses in the place and bought a lot of ground which bye and bye will be of great value.”

I go to Mr Houlder’s house and find it a fairly commodious house for these parts, but nothing extraordinary about it and like lots of others. Drawing Mr H out about it I find the house was sent out from England and purposely made commodious so as to endeavour to keep the Missionaries on the coast, free from fever, so prevalent here in the summer, as they have suffered so much already. The ground, about 1¼ acres is on lease for 50 years to the Society, on part of which a Church is going to be built. Mr Houlder has been 16 years in the country and had eight children and I should think was a hard working man.

8 November - Thursday

This morning the French Mail came in and Col Colville of the Grenadier Guards and Mrs Colville came on board and had breakfast with me. They gave us all the Zanzibar news; the Admiral being still there and one of the Griffon’s Lieutenants having been killed by the Arabs - I suppose up at Pemba.

The C’s are going up to Antananarivo with Mr Leuryre de Vilers, the French Resident, and then to Majunga, and from there in a French man of war to Mozambique. I had a long yarn with Mr Vilers on shore, who declared to me there was no slavery going on along the West coast of Madagascar (he is a shrewd and I should say a clever man of determination).

The best comment on his declaration is that on crossing the road to the British Consulate, I saw all Knott’s despatches just arrived, telling of the Algerine’s captures off the Barren Islands. FitzHerbert in Algerine’s boat capsized on bar chasing Dhow, lost all rifles but one, and kept up a sharp engagement with Arabs and Sakalavas, losing one man and killing 4, capturing 30 slaves out of the 178. She also caught and burnt a Fore and Aft Schooner.

Sailed this afternoon for Majunga.

DEPART TAMATAVE

10 November - Saturday

Strong current against one up to now, but having picked up a good breeze astern, hope to round Cape Amber tomorrow.

11 November - Sunday

Lady Hall’s and Ida Grogan’s birthdays. Instead of reading a sermon this morning read a few verses from the Sermon on the Mount and comments taken from the Portable Commentary. Much better I think having something straight from the gold mine.

After service sent for the Blacksmith and asking if he was one of the brethren. He said “Yes”, I asked him to distribute Tracts for me on the Lower deck. We had a nice chat together and one is not afraid of talking to him as there is no fear of him being brought before me. He is considered one of the hardest working and best blacksmiths in the Service.

In consequence of Mrs Leavitt’s lecture on board, Comber our Chief Engineer, has become a Good Templar.

AT MAJUNGA

14 November - Wednesday

Yesterday at 1 pm I arrived at Majunga and very soon had a visit from the Vice Consul Mr Knott, who told me that the Governor still refused to recognise him. So on the Hora officers calling upon me, I told them, I regretted I was unable to call on the Governor.

Knott, I found is the son of a clergyman at Bath, and was at school with Rob at Mrs Hudson’s, Clifton. He seems a very nice fellow.

I landed and took a walk around the place, received a deputation of Indians, British Subjects, heard all their complaints, which are very grievous. The Governor oppressing them very much with a view of making them leave the place. I took everything down and intend forwarding it all to the Admiral, telegraphing the substance from Mozambique.

Mr Knott, Mr Harvey (Clerk) and an American of sorts, Mr Lord, all dined with me. Knott told me Pickersgill, the Vice Consul at the Capital was engaged in tea planting with the Prime Minister. Knott’s business is pressing Rafia and sending it to England, a very strong stuff used for binding plants.

Left at 8 am this morning, intending to put Boats down off Cape Andrew and go myself to search Juan de Nova Islands, where I hear there are some slaves barracooned.

Feel very lonely at times.

18 November - Sunday

Last Thursday, dropped Hibbert in Cutter and Gig off Ville Massah harbour, 3 miles from Cape St Andrew, to cruise for ten days. Proceeding myself to the island of Juan de Nova, 120 miles off, which I reached on Friday.

AT JUAN DE NOVA

Steaming along the S side, went in the Whaler to see if it was possible to land, but reefs prevented me doing so; went round to the N side and on the bank found the bottom very uneven and had to go on the Fore Yard myself to con her into deep water as I found ship was only in 4 fm and a swell on. On one occasion I just managed to turn her in between two great masses of coral.

At 1 pm, having put her into 10 fm, I left in the Whaler leaving orders with Stanhope and Davenport not to get into less than 8 fm and went into shore myself, some 4 miles off. As it was nearly high water, breakers were not bad and passed through them all right, some 800 yards from the shore (at low water I do not think it would be safe). On getting ashore I found the supposed slaves were some 50 Sakalavas who had been there 3 or 4 months catching turtles. They gave me one. Water is found in the centre of the island.

I got off to the ship, which was too close in, and had been in 6 fm for at least 20 min. Immediately the boat was hoisted I put the helm hard over and went slowly ahead, and turning she gave a slight bump, evidently on a projecting mound of coral, for the leadsman got ½5 in the chains. However it was a light bump and I do not think much damage could have been done.

AT MOZAMBIQUE

25 November - Sunday

Preached this morning a short sermon of my own composition, and pray it may have gone home to some of the listeners.

On Tuesday last I arrived at Mozambique, a very clean little town, built on a small island. Called on Lt O’Neill the Consul, and also on Acting Governor. Took up my stay to a great extent at O’Neills, both he and his wife very pleasant. O’Neill, a man full of information, a great traveller and a Gold Medallist of R.G.S.. His writings are well put together. He and I are suffering from our eyes, the constant glare. Mine are a veritable thorn in the flesh.

On Thursday coaled and that evening attended a reception at Governor’s and danced the opening Quadrille, taking my departure soon after.

Friday 23rd left at daylight for Zanzibar, via Tunghi. The Portuguese have very little hold in the country beyond the fortifications and are great obstructionists to the country being opened up by foreigners, especially being jealous of the English.

Mrs Olivez, wife of a Portuguese Lt in the Army told me her husband got 60 Milreis a month (£12) whilst abroad and £6 at home and found it hard to live on. She is half English and speaks it very well, has had an unhappy life of it. She was married at 13, a mother at 14 and judicially separated at 16 on account of ill usage. She has been obliged to return to her husband as her friends have died. She is a pretty little thing of 17 or 18 now, her child being 3 years old.

Received Mail. It is such a pleasure getting home letters, as I get very lonely at times. Pray dear Rob may be preserved from Yellow Fever as he is in the midst of it at Jacksonville acting as correspondent for the New York World. Such a pleasure hearing from him.

ARRIVE ZANZIBAR

30 November - Friday

Arrived here on Wednesday, having left Mozambique on Friday last. Monday I looked into Tunghi and Mangani, finding the Portuguese gunboat Liberal there and everything quiet.

On arriving here found Flagship, Agamemnon, Garnet and Algerine. Garnet had been ashore up at Pemba, knocking away a lot of false keel and 200 sheets of copper. Griffon had also been high and dry on a sandbank. Met many old ships on board Agamemnon. Pelham and others.

Dined with the Admiral and heard of our combining with the Germans in blockading the coast to prevent the importation of arms and powder and exportation of slaves; to come into effect tomorrow.

I do not see how it will help the German traders. In the meantime, notwithstanding German and Bismarck’s jealousy, the English company is doing well at Mombasa.

My letter on Kilwa has gone to the Admiralty and FO. Euan Smith said information was very exact. Admiral Deinhard wrote me and I paid him a visit as he wanted to pump me regarding the action of the Möwe at Kilwa. I refused to be drawn.

On board the Garnet a chicken is being reared up, that appeared out of an egg, that had been boiled and about to be eaten by a Mid. Comical.

Many letters on getting here. A paper (New York World) giving a most flattering account of Rob at Jacksonville, saying he was recovering from the Yellow fever. God guide him.

3 December - Monday

Last Friday afternoon a young fellow from the Mission got into a canoe with a native teacher, intending to sail from Chukwani to Mbweni at 3 pm, but it came on a fresh breeze and though only a distance of two miles, they drifted somehow or other out to sea. Saturday and Sunday, boats were out looking for them, but nothing was heard of them until they turned up last night.

It appears they drifted over to the Mainland, not very far from Bagamoyo, and on landing were fired at, but the native teacher called out, they belonged to the Mission and were English. The Liwali, an Arab, said it was right seeing the Missionary cloth and saved them from being killed, and sent them back to Zanzibar in a fishing vessel.

It shows how the English name is respected and as the Arab is going to be rewarded it will do good and go far to neutralise the ill effects of blockade proclamation,

French Mail came in yesterday and I had home letters. One from my charming little friend in Cork asking for an annual subscription for the Lily Cot.

Flagship left yesterday for Mombasa.

5 December - Wednesday

Had a chat with General Mathews and Count Teleki. The former told me all the circumstances concerning the 1000 runaway slaves harboured at Rabai by C.M.S. and it certainly seems to me that Price should have known something of their being there. Jones, I believe made no secret of their being there when asked.

Met Mr Guy Dawnay and Mackenzie at Euan Smith’s; the latter told me he had paid the Arabs £4000 for runaway slaves, so everything is satisfactorily arranged. He told me he knew my dear old father, and that his partner Dawes was a great friend of father’s. This I knew but did not know they were partners.

My eyes trouble me.

How difficult to know how one should comport oneself in the world and towards it, so as to walk a holy life and yet not give needless offence; and yet at the same time, by striving not to give needless offence, falling into compliance with the world. Earnest prayer for guidance and faith in the efficacy of that prayer is our only guide.

6 December - Thursday

Dined last night with Cardale, Captain of Agamemnon. He gave a very nice dinner to eight of us. Had a walk with Pretyman in the afternoon, who gave me a lot of Mediterranean news. Previous to the walk made my visit to the French Hospital. Found Von Bulow nearly well and the poor fellow from the Flagship in great and excruciating pain. Endeavoured to cheer him up a bit, poor fellow.

ON PATROL BETWEEN ZANZIBAR AND MOMBASA

8 December - Saturday

Steaming North to meet the Garnet off Mombasa this morning. The Admiral communicated with me and has given me No 2 beat. What a lively time before one and my eyes, poor inflamed eyes giving me such trouble, though I hardly read anything, I long to be home but must have patience and rest, remembering that God orders all things.

12 December - Wednesday

Steaming back to Melinda to anchor for the night, having been there this morning and paid a visit to the Wali, who was most friendly. We had a long chat together. Saw the Garnet in the distance this morning. Most monotonous, slow and useless this cruising. A political move to please the Germans.

15 December - Saturday

Still employed on this stupid blockading work. Up anchor at 5.15 and after steaming up and down the coast all day, anchoring between 6 and 7 pm.

Yesterday dear Robbie’s birthday. 32 years of age. My eyes giving me trouble again. Sleeping in a draught the cause of it and temperature being so damp.

Feel sure Davenport will end his career in the Service by getting his ship on shore.

Met Garnet this forenoon and exchanged signals with her. Anchored off Melinda for the night.

18 December - Tuesday

Still on this slow blockade. For a change ran into Lamu Roads and anchored at 3 pm. Went into the harbour in the Steam Cutter and passing the village of Shella, saw three white men. Went in and found they had been up country shooting round Kilimanjaro, having been there all year and been fairly successful. Their names were Hunter, Greenfield and xxx, also the Maltese, Martin, who accompanied Thomson, was of their party. We had a chat and most interesting one it was. They had followed Thomson’s track and found everything he had said in his book very correct.

I paid a visit to the Wali at Lamu who was very agreeable and then picking up Kay at Shella returned to the ship.

Yesterday met Mathews and Mackenzie coming North in SS Kilwa, boarded her and had a chat with them.

24 December - Xmas Eve

Met Boadicea last Saturday, dined with Admiral and asked him to let ship go up to Aden and Cossack come down here. Admiral had a long chat with me. I can see that he and Euan Smith are not on the best of terms.

Received mails from home. Not many letters, though E.D. is very regular in writing,

Mr Quick to be invalided.

Have come into Lamu Bay to spend a quiet Xmas Day as since leaving Zanzibar on 6th, the ship has been cruising every day on this most uninteresting cruise.

French Dhows much dislike being boarded. Had to load 5 inch BL and threaten to blow the mast away of one before he allowed my officer on board.

25 December - Xmas Day

Lamu Bay. I have much to be thankful for, reviewing the past year. I anticipated heavy expenses, instead of which they have been the reverse. I have made Prize Money and through God’s blessing been able to provide for the girls for perhaps two years.

I have not that spiritual sanctification and whole heartedness to God that I would wish and must have by His mercy and grace. Anxious cares, disappointed thoughts of cherished hopes and desires blighted, must go. They would have no place if Jesus was my All in All; and by His grace He will be. I look to self too much, and what do I find? Nothing but unlovliness. Look up not down, Look out not in, and the result will be Peace perfect Peace.

Preached a short sermon to men of my own composition. I find it hard carrying on a service with an indifferent congregation. It is throwing pearls before swine.

27 December - Thursday

Yesterday met the Griffon off Ras Ngomeni, and went on board to see Forsyth and had a yarn with him. He told me the Admiral and Euan Smith were nearly cuts. The fact is the Consul General tries to have a finger in everyone’s pie and Everyone does not like it.

Received a communication from the Admiralty enclosing a FO despatch in which Lord Salisbury said he read with much pleasure my commendation of the zeal displayed by Lt Hibbert and Mr Job when slave hunting at Pemba.

Mr Lyall, Mid, will turn out a good officer being zealous and anxious to learn his profession.

1889

AT ZANZIBAR

1 January - Tuesday

Bless the Lord with my soul and all that is within me. Bless His Holy name and forget not all his benefits. This morning, hearing Midnight strike, I got out of bed and asked God to bless me that my life might be dedicated to his service.

When I cast my thoughts back at His mercies to me during the past year, how thankful I should be. Leaving England in debt, with anxious thoughts about my dear sisters, Coffee House, health recovered now, enough money to provide for the girls for two years.

2 January - Wednesday

Last night after dinner went ashore to Euan Smith and had a chat with Count Teleki who is just going home after having made some discoveries in the Interior. Guy Dawnay about to proceed into the Interior. Euan Smith received telegram saying he had received C.B. Some friction discernible between Admiral and E.S., the latter inclined to interfere with the former. Climate here detestable at present, muggy and hot.

3 January - Thursday

Admiral paid me a visit this morning and told me his grievances against Euan Smith, who is rather inclined to work behind the Admiral’s back by wiring to Lord Salisbury. The blockade should be left entirely to the Admiral.

4 January - Friday

Boadicea left yesterday and I am left Senior Naval Officer. Went ashore for a walk. I shall not be sorry at leaving this place, it is very hot and damp and I am quite laid up with my eyes and nose. Met Euan Smiths and drove out to Mbweni with them.

5 January - Saturday

This morning German Flag Lt arrived whilst I was at breakfast and informed me that the Schwalbe had got on shore on Fungu Yasin reef and was in a bad way and that Admiral Deinhard had sent over for assistance. I packed the Woodcock off at once.

6 January - Sunday

Woodcock returned 10 am having assisted to haul Schwalbe off this morning. I fancy she must have knocked about a good deal on the reef from what Walter reports.

Stork came in and Pullen paid me a visit, having met the Admiral on Friday. The Flagship’s pinnace let a Dhow with 46 slaves slip in during the night at Pemba.

Attended Service at English Church. Clark preached a very good sermon, as he afterwards told me when he saw me, he was in fear and trembling. However as I told him he preached straight to the point.

Very disgusting this evening, three of my POs came off drunk, three most steady men. This comes from drinking such poisonous stuff as they get here.

VISIT MOMBASA

7 January - Monday

Agamemnon coming in. Enabled me to get away this afternoon, first embarking Euan Smith, I had Kay, Stanhope, Comber and McAdam into dinner to meet him.

8 January - Tuesday

Provisioned boats off Pemba then steamed North, meeting the Admiral and put into port for the night. Dined in the Wardroom. Lamb very good and new potatoes a great treat. Got out of an English steamer.

Asking for guidance about Petty Officers.

9 January - Wednesday

A great baraza on Penguin poop. The Wali and 20 Arab Sheiks of Mombasa came off. I seated them all and gave them Coffee. A great talk went on about slaves - runaways at Rabai.

MacKenzie, Price and Buchanan breakfasted with me. Price told me that no doubt Jones had kept his eye closed, but the whole thing was very much exaggerated and a defence was coming out.

Woodcock came in bringing a letter to Euan Smith saying Germans were trying to bully the Sultan to cede Lamu, Pate and Manda to them, by orders from their Government. Sultan was temporising - as a matter of fact the Sultan ceded them to us 4 months ago, but it has been kept a dead secret as it was not intended to enforce it unless the Germans made this move.

Went outside, met the Flagship and being too rough to communicate, followed her into Mombasa Harbour.

Euan Smith and I called on Admiral and I was told to take him to Zanzibar.

AT ZANZIBAR

10 January - Thursday

Fine NE breeze. Steaming sent me 9 knots all night and though 1½ knot current against me, got down at 11 am. Found Agamemnon here and took in 30 tons of coal. Lunched with Cardale who told me of Euan Smith and row he had with him. Certainly E.S. told me some lies, to speak plainly.

Paid visit to Hospital. Saw E.S. before coming off. He had received two letters from Mackay from Victoria Nyanza telling of all rows up at Buganda. Missionaries kicked out, Revolution. Wanga prisoner and Arabs in power there.

Much blessed by guidance with regard to the P.O.s

VISITS TO LAMU AND PATROLS BETWEEN LAMU AND MALINDI

13 January - Sunday

Left Zanzibar on Friday morning having coaled the previous day. Met Griffon this morning off Melinda. A sudden coolness in the temperature of 3 has given a lot of men colds, 14 in the list. I myself suffering from one all over. Out of the wind it is still hot, in the wind, cold.

I feel miserable. What comfort to know that my God understands all things, even my petty ailments. I long and must have more self renunciation and completer emptiness of self, before I obtain that perfect peace which passeth all understanding. It is a comfort to know there is a Xtian Officer in the ship, Mr Graham the Gunner.

The Doctor says men have distinctly deteriorated the last 3 months through sea work, want of fresh meat and have no stamina. I think he is mistaken as men look to me remarkably robust. Most of the men invalided have gone home through causes attributable to our Mauritius visit, this the Doctor says; viz. Typhoid and Malaria fever, but no doubt three years on station is too long.

Hibbert told me how they spent Xmas in the Boats at Pemba. They had flour and raisins to make the Duff, but no salt nor pudding bag, and the pot was not very big. So they made three small Duffs and used one of Hibbert’s old Jerseys for pudding bags and boiled in salt water. Unfortunately Hibbert’s jersey was not very strong, and two burst, but the third was very good.

15 January - Tuesday

Weighed this morning under sail and anchored off Kipini at 8 pm. Ship went along very well, the screw being up. Found Stork at anchor.

16 January - Wednesday

Went on shore, a long way in, and when there nothing to be seen or done, Kipini being a collection of huts, steamed back to Lamu and met Mail. Fortunate enough to get a regular budget, and thankful to say all well. A long kind letter from Sir A. Hoskins.

17 January - Thursday

Cruising about under sail.

18 January - Friday

Left Lamu under sail this morning with a smart breeze soon reached Kipini, but found Stork not there so returned to Lamu anchoring at 8 pm - as homeward bound steamer signalled she had letters for us.

So anxious to walk only by faith, the continual fallings and lapses in one’s walk are trials to one’s faith, but we are told to be of good courage and not to be disheartened. My eyes dimmed with tears this afternoon as I pondered over my lack of service and longing for sanctification so unsatisfied.

20 January - Sunday

Met the Griffon this forenoon. Held service, it is most trying to read service knowing so many of the men are indifferent to it all.

At the prayers after evening Quarters not so many as usual joined in the evening hymn. Bluejackets are so very capricious and so childish sometimes. I am afraid they rather look upon it as a forced service, so I must give up having the evening hymn for it does not do for the Captain to be playing and singing unless properly supported.

Yesterday, meeting the Mail, I heard from the Admiral, who told me Lord Salisbury did not intend the Germans to have Lamu. So I had a long and confidential chat with Wali. He seemed to have a clear perception of how matters stood. I told Wali that we did not intend to let the Germans have Lamu and intended protecting the Sultan. I was told not to commit myself too much, rather a difficult thing not to do. The Wali told me Mackenzie said to him “The Germans are coming to take trade and I was to put every hindrance in their way”, which I intend doing.

I have to hang about Lamu so as to be on the spot ready to prevent the Germans from going too far.

21 January - Monday

Paid a visit to the Wali who told me Mr Tuppen, the German, was coming to pay him a visit at 5 pm that day and he (the Wali) will come on board and let me know the result of the interview.

Landed on Manda Island to have a shot at the Partridge; country difficult.

22 January - Tuesday

The Wali and some ten Sheiks came off to the ship. I had them received with all honour and held a Baraza in my cabin, handing coffee and cigarettes round. They were much struck with the men at General Quarters.

I had a long chat with the Wali who told me the German, in 4 days time, was going to call a meeting of all the principal people in Lamu and ask them which they liked, the English or the Germans. He also told the Wali everything was settled about Lamu, that Bismarck had written out saying the Germans were to have it. This news had kept him awake all night and I told him it was not true and assured him England will not allow it. (They left many fleas in my cabin on their departure).

23 January - Wednesday

Left Lamu and anchored in Formosa Bay.

24 January - Thursday

Met Griffon this forenoon at 11 am. Blaxland I should think livery, from his signals.

26 January - Saturday

Sailed down during the night and met Griffon off Ras Ngomeni. Wrote B. a nice little letter as I saw something had upset him, so it made everything alright. I fancy his signalman must have made some mistake in reading off a signal.

27 January - Sunday

Anchored in Lamu Harbour this afternoon and walked with Stanhope from Shella to Lamu. Heard there was an Englishman at the Vice Consulate. and on going there found a man called Stuart Sandys, who is shell insect collecting, but, who told me confidentially he had come here at the request of Euan Smith and Mackenzie to watch what the Germans did.

28 January - Monday

Stuart Sandys lunched with me, he would not go away. I was most anxious to get ashore for a tramp with my gun on Manda Island. At last I asked him to come and only got rid of him at last by going through such thorny thickets that he said he had enough of it and so went back.

30 January - Wednesday

Met Griffon today, heard from Admiral who tells me he and Euan Smith only correspond officially now - sorry there should be so much friction. The Admiral is going to send us to Aden on arrival of Coronet.

31 January - Thursday

This morning I went up to Lamu and had a long conversation with Mr During, native Missionary, who gave me a lot of information which I have embodied in my report on Lamu. It appears Capt Dernhardt, the political adviser of the Sultan of Witu, and Mr Tuppen, Manager of the Witu Company are dead cuts, but they are endeavouring to get the principal people of Lamu to their side, but, though a few have taken up the German cause with their faces, their hearts are English and I have had circulated confidentially amongst the leading people, that England will not allow the Germans to have it.

1 February - Friday

This morning Mr During brought on board Ali Bin Abdullah, the leading man amongst the Arabs, who are under German protection and we had a long conversation together, he telling me he wanted to come under British protection and that, if it can be managed, the others will follow suit and that they really much preferred the English, though they would not be allowed to have slavery.

I told him that though buying and selling would be at once abolished, yet, domestic slaves would not be at once released.

Wrote a long confidential letter to the Admiral giving a description of what I had done, by keeping up and fostering British Interests and not doing so in a compromising manner.

3 February - Sunday

Met the Griffon yesterday and discharged Mr Lyall, Mid, to her for Flagship. He is a zealous young fellow.

This morning before Divisions, Mr Tuppen the Manager of the Witu Company came to see me about some arms I had taken out of a German Dhow. Visit passed off amicably. Found out he was on his way to Zanzibar to endeavour to get Customs at Lamu.

Yesterday coming on deck at 3 pm I saw we were rather close to the shore and looking, saw signs of reefs not 200 yards off our lee beam and running ahead. I at once put helm over, especially as I saw the bottom distinctly. Lt Davenport ought to have been knocking about the deck but he is very lazy and lacks zeal, yet withal very self opiniated. I believe if I had not come on deck, ship would have struck in a ¼ of an hour. I went down to my cabin and thanked God for His Mercy and goodness in preserving the ship.

4 February - Monday

This morning I went up to Lamu and had a long interview with the Wali and Mr During. It appears on Saturday last that Mr Tuppen endeavoured to get the Elders to sign a document stating that they desired the Germans to farm the customs of Lamu, instead of the English. This they refused to do and now Mr Tuppen has gone off to Zanzibar to try his luck there.

5 February - Tuesday

Came down to Ras Ngomeni to meet the Griffon tomorrow morning and conveying letters from Wali to the Sultan telling him not to believe Mr Tuppen’s representations if he says the people of Lamu are favourable to the Germans.

I wish I could hear from the Admiral. My only instructions came in a private note of the 16th January, since which I have been playing off my own bat, and I hope it will meet with the approval of my Superiors.

Sailed down today, a nice breeze.

6 February - Wednesday

Met the Flagship this forenoon and persuaded the Admiral to let me go down to Pemba on Sunday for a week. This morning we got the anchor up so badly that I ran it out to a clinch.

9 February - Saturday

On Wednesday last, the Flagship turned up instead of the Griffon and I went to see the Admiral, and had a long chat with him on various subjects. From telegrams he showed me it is very evident that the Germans are getting tired of the blockade and would like to retire graciously from it.

Have been cruising under sail since Thursday.

10 February - Sunday

Met the Flagship (Boadicea) off Ras Ngomeni and receiving orders from her, proceeded down to Mombasa.

11 February - Monday

Communicated with Griffon outside Mombasa and received poor Lt Cooper’s things for passage to England, the same who was killed in taking a slave Dhow last October.

Went into Mombasa, landed stewards, as we had nothing on board.

Saw Lang of the Reindeer, and down to Pemba.

Yesterday, making sail, Stanhope sprung the Maintopsail Yard, the second one he has done the same thing to. Shifted it very quickly.

14 February - Thursday

Been cruising down Pemba every day and having a fine moon make a late anchorage of it sometimes. I do not think there are any slaves being run at the moment, though they are needed as cloves are rotting on the ground for lack of labour.

I shall be very glad at getting home again, having so much to settle. The want of a home I feel very much at times. The memory of the past comes into my mind at times and what I have lost, and I feel none of the younger ones of the family can know what it was. But again isolation has done me good. It has been the means of making me a Christian and my most earnest prayer is that day by day I may grow in Grace and holiness and walk by faith in all things. What obstacles lie in our path, how weary we get, but how strengthened when we look not inwards, but outwards, up not down, forward not backward. God will give us strength. As our day so shall our strength be.

17 February - Sunday

Just anchored off Mkokotoni for the night having left Pemba this afternoon at 2 pm. Stanhope seedy.

AT ZANZIBAR

20 February - Wednesday

On Monday arrived at Zanzibar. All well. Received Mails.

Sailed down to Mbweni with Admiral and walked back accompanied most of the way by Bishop Smythies, a very pleasant man. I had a pleasant chat with him on Missions generally.

This afternoon sailed down to Kingani, had a long theological talk with Jones and Bateman and walked back to town with Curzon.

21 February - Thursday

Admiral signalled for me this afternoon and told me that English and German Governments had wired out to know what they could suggest to take the place of the blockade as it was intended to raise it very shortly. I told the Admiral that I still adhered to what I had written in August last; by either a more complete blockade of the Islands of Pemba and Zanzibar, or the total abolishment of slavery under conditions similar to those carried out in Brazil; pointing out how the measure could be carried out, compensation and labour found. I also pointed out how the Northern trade might be met.

The Admiral quite concurred and said nothing about my letter which he has had in his possession since August last. “You must not mind my picking your brains.”

Euan Smith told me when on board here for a cruise some time ago he had written, curiously enough, almost as I had. I said “I think you saw my letter”, he replied “Oh No, not that part.” The answer told me he had, besides which the Admiral told me he had shown it to him. I do not mind who gets the credit, as long as the slave question is gone at and a blow struck at the trade.

Had a walk with Curzon who told me of all his troubles with the Admiral and that he had written once tendering his resignation, but Admiral begged him to withdraw it. He is most bitter against the Admiral. I advised Curzon to go, as the relations are and have not been for long such as they should be between Admiral and Flag Captain.

Attended reception at Euan Smith and had a yarn with Clarke on ritual and Bishop Smythies on work, and agreed with him that Missionaries should scorn to fly danger.

23 February - Saturday

I paid a visit to Kingani Mission yesterday afternoon and inspected all the buildings, schools etc. I was much pleased at what I saw. The new Arch Deacon, Jones-Bateman, is managing very well. The children sang for me in the church and in the school room. I spoke a few words to them in the Church.

Dined with Admiral. A big dinner, German Admiral, French Commodore, Euan Smith, Bishop, Sir John Kirk and Miss Kirk. Very hot at dinner, a great relief to get into the open air.

Band played vigorously for Miss Kirk’s benefit, until just after midnight. She danced away, energetic and roses in her cheeks, just out from England. Montgomorie monopolising her, much to our amusement. No one else stood a chance. German Flag Lt, Doctor and Mid had to succumb to his freezing glances.

I had a long talk with Bishop on baptism during dinner.

ON PATROL IN VICINITY OF LINDI

28 February - Thursday

At Lindi. I left Zanzibar on Monday 2 pm, going out under sail. A difficult operation as I had a barque only a ship’s length astern of me. However I laid out a hawser to the Woodcock from my bow and loosing sails, backed sails on the Mainmast, hauling on the hawser as soon as the anchor was tripped. I managed to clear the barque and backing sails on Foremast cleared the Flagship and eventually got round, heaving to, in order to cat my anchor. It was difficult work hauling in hawsers. heaving on Capstan and making sail. So short of complement and two boats away cruising.

Yesterday it blew and rained very heavily. I anchored here and met Algerine on the evening. Forsyth dined with me and Wardroom officers of Algerine dined in our Wardroom.

Everything quiet here, but Chief men have sent to say it is not safe to land as the inland tribes will fire on any white men.

Last Sunday, 24th, I had the mate of SS Mount Tabor, Mr Dalzell and some of his men, also some men from an American whaling barque came on board to service.

In my cabin I had a chat with Mr Dalzell on Sunday labour, saying how much it was coming into vogue in the merchant service. He said “Yes” and said “I have been 23 years at sea and my experience is that a ship that spends Sunday quietly does just as well, if not better, that those that work on Sunday. I served under Captain Maclean of the Buenos Ayres, one of the Allan Line, for two years and his experience after 2 years work was that his ship had cleared as much as any other and he never did more than he was obliged to on a Sunday. He is now owner of a line of Steam ships the Straits Line in Glasgow proving the truth of God’s word - Them that honour me, I will honour.”

Mr Dalzell said it is generally the shipmasters and not the ship owners that force Sunday work, on account of competition.

Attended service at Cathedral, heard Bishop Smythies preach; had a chat with him afterwards, then walk with Curzon and dined with the Admiral.

2 March - Saturday

Msimbati. Yesterday I met the German ship Schwalbe off Kiswere. Captain paid me a visit and we arranged future meetings.

Foolishly came into this place this afternoon on a strong spring flood tide, through a narrow channel between reefs and shoals. Davenport nearly put her onto a coral reef, mistaking it for an overfall of tide, but I insisted it was a reef and sure enough it was. We only just cleared it.

Like a brute I spoke unnecessarily very sharply to my steward, Oliver. I thought he appeared very down and made him come out of the pantry, as I surmised he had been weeping. I spoke kindly to him and he began again. However I made it alright, and finally telling him how sorry I was at hurting his feelings and he must forget all about it. He cheered up and I gave him a knife taken in the last captured Dhow, as a memento. I think it will do good for it has shown me how harsh and unfeeling one gets and I shall take a more personal interest in Oliver now.

Landed on Majanwa Island. Saw and shot one pigeon.

3 March - Sunday

Remained on board and employed some of my time writing Expository Thoughts, by Mackintosh on Exodus, out for E.D’s and Lel’s benefit.

5 March - Tuesday

Met the Schwalbe off Kiswere this day and received Mails. Heard from the girls, and Lady Hall, the latter telling me all the money for the Coffee House had gone and Gregory had given notice. I have lots to think about.

6 March - Wednesday

This forenoon two Askari came off from the Akida, asking me if I would let the Akida and his 32 soldiers go to Zanzibar. I sent my Interpreter on shore to the Akida to say he had better come off to see me.

The Mail steamer Baghdad arrived at 10 am and I saw some Bamairs and Hindis go on board, so I steamed over to her and anchored alongside of her, going on board. I interviewed the Bamairs and found out that the Akida and his soldiers, as they say, cannot get food and have not received pay for months. The Bamairs in a most mortal funk all the time and refused to come on board Penguin as all communication with men of war is forbidden. In fact I was told that the chief of one village was in prison for allowing canoes to come off to me with eggs.

At 4 pm the second Akida came off to me and desired leave to go though the blockade and showed me a letter from Sultan of Zanzibar, ordering all soldiers to Zanzibar. I refused to let them go, but said I would write for Information at once, by steamer. The Arab was very angry, but I managed to pacify him and gave him coffee and cigarettes, and at last he said he would wait for 8 days and then he’d come out and I must take the consequences (I shall make them prisoner). He said he only wanted my permission and did not care a bit for the Germans, however I was firm and told him I was ready to take the consequences.

He said he could not get any food, but I told him he could get as he had hitherto, by requisitioning the Hindis and I shall ask Sultan to reimburse them. I find from Hindis that the Akida and his men have no power in Lindi, but that two Swahilis rule the roost and give all orders.

I wrote by Mail steamer to the Admiral officially and privately, and also to Euan Smith saying one of Sultan’s steamers should be sent down at once to remove his soldiers, otherwise further complications may arise as this is German Territory and we shall get mixed up in their rows if we are not careful.

8 March - Friday

A rat ran up a Marine’s leg inside his breeches, whilst he was lashing up his hammock. He gave a yell and another man came to his rescue and the vermin was killed.

I nearly ran a Dhow down, in fact did, this afternoon. I am thankful to say no damage was done, fortunately she got a little to one side of my stem and so was brushed aside. I was turning vessel round head to sea and Dhow got frightened and tried to cross my bow.

9 March - Saturday

Did not see any Germans off Kiswere, so returned and anchored off Lindi. Heavy rain squalls from the SW, the precursor of the SW Monsoon.

This afternoon Kay, being on the poop, opened a conversation with me on death and evidently something made a deep impression on him. We had a most interesting conversation and God helped me point out the way to the Lord Jesus. Is this not an answer to my prayers for the officers and men? I believe it is and thank God. Grant me singleness of heart and simplicity of faith.

12 March - Tuesday

No news yet from Zanzibar, so I simply get underway about 9 am and go for a short cruise outside Lindi, returning to anchorage about 5 pm.16 March - Saturday

Reindeer turned up this morning. Lang told me that Euan Smith had sent my private letter to Cardale about the Akida not being allowed to leave Lindi and that Cardale was very angry at not hearing from me. As a matter of fact I had written both publicly and privately to the Admiral, who unfortunately was not at Zanzibar when mail arrived, so Cardale thought I should have written to him.

I am very much annoyed with Euan Smith for showing my private letter giving him the information he asked for, well knowing what mischief he might make. Lang says that both Cardale and Euan Smith think I have done wrong in not allowing the Akida to leave. We shall see.

DEPART ZANZIBAR

23 March - Saturday

Steaming to Aden to relieve Osprey and await our relief, the Pigeon at the same place, due about May 10th. Ship vibrating a good deal through motions of screw, makes it difficult writing.

Last Saturday 16th we left Lindi and on Sunday arrived at Zanzibar in the evening. I dined with the Admiral and after dinner he told me he thought I had done quite right in not allowing the Akida and his soldiers to leave Lindi, under present circumstances; and he said he had received that afternoon from the German Admiral saying how much obliged he was to him for the Akida not being allowed out, and still more so to Hall.

Euan Smith, the Agent and Consul General, I am much annoyed with for having asked me particularly to send him a private line saying how things were going on. He should have been most careful, knowing how sensitive Cardale and the Admiral are, not to have sent my letter off. Happily no mischief was done for as the Admiral said, he knew I was much too loyal to work behind his back, and I soon made it right with Cardale.

Monday I dined with the Admiral and had a long talk about our movements. He told me that he would let me go immediately Pigeon arrived on station.

Am affected with a large boil on a most awkward part of my body. Oliver ill in my cabin with fever.

Tuesday 18th. Gave a dinner party to Curzon-Howe, Cardale, Arbuthnot, Martin and Pelham. Went off very well.

Wednesday 20th. I dined at Agency, a farewell dinner, the Admiral and a few others being there. I ignored the Lindi business altogether as I wanted to part good friends with Euan Smith and he proposed my health in a nice little speech. I replied appropriately, making them laugh a good deal by some Shakespearean quotations - and we had a very pleasant evening.

Thursday 21st. Delayed by having to sit on a Court Martial to try three men for attempting to break out of Flagship (Boadicea) at 11 30 pm. Cdr Montgomorie went down the ladder and told them not to make fools of themselves, but two of them attempted to fight Montgomorie, one of the strongest men in the service. He knocked them both down, stunning one of them, and they got a good mauling, although they were strong stout rascals. We gave two five years penal servitude and one 3 months imprisonment.

At 4 pm. Up anchor, the band of the Flagship playing Capstan Tunes for us and away we steamed our paying off pennant flying out well; round the Flagship receiving hearty cheers, and the band playing Home Sweet Home and Auld Lang Syne. More cheers from the Agamemnon, French, Portuguese and German; and at 5 pm we were fairly turned towards Aden steaming along at 8 knots, and I am thankful to say, our back towards Zanzibar.

My boil prevents me getting much rest and I had to take a special chair to Court Martial this morning.

Have 12 prisoners and 16 Invalids on board, including men tried this morning. Oliver well again.

30 March - Saturday

Rounded Cape Guardafui this forenoon, within a couple of miles. Very bold and barren with mountains about 300 ft high. Just getting over my affliction of boils, which have caused me much inconvenience and trouble.

ARRIVE ADEN

4 April - Thursday

On Sunday passed Ras Alula and sighted two Italian men of war at anchor. I interchanged signals, asking them if they wish to be reported, upon which they replied “No, I thank you.”

On Monday I arrived at Aden and moved in the Inner Harbour, finding Osprey in here. Gissing in no hurry to be off.

Made calls on the Brigadier General Hogg, finding him a most pleasant person. His two nieces, Misses Tanner, are staying with him.

Tuesday. More calls and that evening attended a dance given by General Hogg in honour of the Osprey’s. Gissing having an attack of fever did not go. I left early.

Wednesday. More calls and callers on me. Osprey sailed and we cheered her, she returned ditto. Attended evening prayers at Garrison Chapel. Wilkinson, a very young fellow officiated, he being Garrison Chaplain. Rather lofty I think, always bowing to the Communion Table on passing it.

4 April - Thursday

Stanhope and I drove out to the Isthmus to see Polo match between the 33rd and Station, the latter won.

7 April - Sunday

Dined last night at General Hogg’s and after dinner sat out in the open air and chatted. No one of much interest dining.

This morning Wilkinson (Garrison Chaplain) quite a young fellow, came on board and preached. He is very earnest, but his sermon lacked the one thing needed - Jesus Christ. He is evidently very ritualistic. I took the Holy Communion this morning.

8 April - Monday

Yesterday afternoon the MM Rio Grande came in bringing the Euan Smiths, en route to England, I had a pleasant chat with them. They kindly brought me some Zanzibar oranges.

The Mail came in soon afterwards and I received a budget, including a very nice one from Lady Hope, ref. the Coffee House, and a characteristic one from Spurgeon.

My boil pained me so much last night I got no sleep and feel much done up.

Dined at Camp with Molyneux of West Riding Regt, meeting Captain Gordon of the Indian Army who is in charge of the Aden Troop. A fine fellow, he is a nephew of the late General Gordon, brother to one in RE, his father being Sir H Gordon. We got into a very serious talk.

Visited Dr Paterson of the Keith Falconer Mission, who is very ill at Civil Hospital.

13 April - Saturday

Since yesterday have been under Doctor’s hands, My boil on leg being so bad that three nights I could get no rest. No joke in this climate. So yesterday he cut me and ever since I have been under poultices. It is a nasty place and gave me much pain, besides feeling very run down.

15 April - Monday

Still laid up with my leg. Boil being very tiresome, but hope soon to be alright

Last night the Severn and two Torpedo boats came in bound for Singapore. Captain Hall of Severn came on board and had a long yarn with me this afternoon and told me a lot of news at Admiralty.

17 April - Wednesday

Hall dined with me last night and this morning he left for Colombo. He told me that last year’s evolutions were based on the relative strengths of the English and French navies corresponding to A and B Squadrons, and that Sir Arthur Hood did not know this until afterwards and was much annoyed when he found it out.

I read on board the Severn the Confidential letter from the Cabinet to the Admiralty.

1st. As to force necessary for defending the coasts of England from invasion, preventing Gib and Malta from bombardment.

1. Against France alone.

2. Against France and Russia combined. In the latter case Constantinople to be defended.

The answer is most interesting. Blockading the enemy is out of the question. We have not enough ships, so a plan of observation is to be adopted, i.e. our squadron is to be ¼ stronger than the enemy’s which of course means being nearly equal. 24 Battle Ships are to be stationed at Gibraltar to watch 19 at Toulon. Another Squadron at Portland or Plymouth to watch French at Brest, and a Reserve at Spithead.

Looking over this Confidential letter most carefully I do not wonder at Government being alarmed and asking for an extra £2,000,000 for Navy. This is the minimum required, and, in my opinion, it means sailing close to the wind, for our Gib Squadron are practically 1200 miles from their base, and both our squadrons always lying with banked fires, and liable to false alarms. What heavy responsibility will lay on our look out Squadron.

PATROL IN SOUTH PART OF RED SEA

27 April - Saturday

Rather behind in my journal. Last Thursday week, the 18th inst, I left Aden, making as if for the South. When out of sight of the town, I steered up the Red Sea passing Perim by night so as to be off Mocha by daylight, for I had received information that a caravan of Abyssinian slaves was expected down daily on the coast.

Saturday 20th. I put into Perim and found they had not left the coast, but, that since Osprey’s capture, the slave dealers were very wily and ran along the shore and behind the group of Islands. Jebel Hanish and Jebel Zukur.

I steamed down during the night as far as Jebel Zukur, the wind blowing very hard up the Red Sea. At daylight I made my way back against a gale and nasty sea and that night arrived at Beilul Bay, where I anchored for the night, and boarding a Dhow gathered enough information to convince me that the 160 slaves, mostly girls, had been taken across to Hodeidah and Jeddah. In fact the ground to be covered (much of it amongst reefs) 100 miles by 30 miles is too much for any ship and, as when it is blowing, the Dhows run 9 to 10 knots, and that at night. It is evident it is no easy matter catching them, as they only take 3 hours getting across and cannot be seen by night more than half a mile off, and in the meantime you may be 80 miles off.

The thermometer was 91 at Beilul, the Wet Thermometer being 81; so as fast as you perspired, so fast it dried from you.

RETURN ADEN

Tuesday 23rd. I arrived off Aden, and putting up a target at the back of the Rock, carried out my Prize Firing, making excellent practice at 1500 yards; the 64 pdr getting in 11 shots in 7 minutes and going very close each time. 3 into the target (40 ft by 15 ft), after which I returned to harbour and received our mail. All well at home I am thankful to say.

Thursday went up to the Residency, General Hogg, to stay. He and his nieces, the Misses Farmers, very pleasant.

5 May - Sunday

Had a bright service on board this morning, The Captain of SS Derbyshire came on board and was evidently much impressed by the service. We had a long interesting chat in my cabin. He said he felt he was letting things of this world choke him up. I urged on him the duty of honouring God by observing the Sabbath,

Captain Balfour of Heroine which arrived last night, came and paid me a visit after church.

Last night I dined at the R.A. mess with Captain Mein B.M.. We had after a dinner a long and interesting conversation together, he rather defended Agnosticism, saying he could not take things on faith. I told him my experience of things.

At the Hospital (Civil) a young fellow called Hill told me that he had had so much religious teaching in his youth, being made to learn the scriptures as a punishment, that when he was old enough, he never opened them in consequence. I am quite certain it is a great mistake, forcing children to learn the Scriptures as a task. Gun is doing well at hospital as are the other patients.

6 May - Monday

Wilkinson the Chaplain and Johnson (Engineer) dined with me last night. We had an interesting talk. After which I drove up to the General’s for to sleep, on account of coaling ship this morning. Up all night with an attack of diarrhoea.

Captain of Meteor (French) told me that the Italians had given 30,000 francs to the owner of the slaves captured by Osprey. There is obviously no love lost between French and Italians.

8 May - Wednesday

Ranger signalled.

I went ashore at 8 30 am and drove out to Sheikh Othman, 8 miles, to see the Free Church Mission. I found Mr Lockhead and Rev Mr Gardner at breakfast, who made me welcome and afterwards we paid a visit to the Mission House, where some 50 Gallas, boys and girls, are being brought up. They were part of the 200 odd captured by the Osprey, and come from just south of Abyssinia. The Gallas are of Semitic race and I was very much struck with the marked intelligence on their faces; so superior to the Swahilis and South Africans. They sang very sweetly, having soft voices, some old hymns for me. They certainly looked very bright and sharp, and I was told by the Mission people they were all being most anxious to learn and very quick. They also differ from the Hamitic children in being very moral and truthful and affectionate and not quarrelsome. One little fellow, on being asked if he would like to see his mother again, burst into tears.

From what I have seen of the children out here, and races, I think the Gallas are the race to evangelise the natives through, if they can be got at. The Gallas have in remote ages been christianised by Abyssinians in a way, but now only have a belief in spirits.

The two Eunuchs died at Mission.

On returning went on board and had a yarn with my chum Sam Johnson of Ranger who succeeds me as Senior Officer.

Pigeon came in yesterday evening. A nice looking craft.

9 May - Thursday

MM Steamer came in from Zanzibar this evening and to our intense disgust brought me orders to wait for the B & I due on the 20th, which was bringing up Court Martial Prisoners including Sugden, lately dismissed by C.M. from Turquoise for getting her ashore. I had made all preparations for leaving on Friday 11 am and bitter was our disappointment at being ordered to stop.

14 May - Tuesday

Been laid up since Friday having got a chill which gave me Diarrhoea, sickness, neuralgia and liver, and am just getting over it now. Very mean I have been, feeling the heat very much and getting little sleep. Thermometer over 90 and rather damp.

16 May - Thursday

Hope the British India Steamer will turn up tomorrow in which case I will be off for England. I don’t think I will pick up now until I am in the Mediterranean D.V.

The rats are getting once more a great nuisance. Last night Stanhope was sitting in a chair about 11 30 pm, when he woke up by finding a rat sitting on his shoulder.

Took a drive with Hewett in his dog cart, his horse shying at everything in the road, most uncomfortable.

My prickly heat very bad, prevents my sleeping well.

17 May - Friday

2 pm (Thermometer 90 in shade).

Anxiously looking out for the British India from Zanzibar.

Last night had a sudden sand storm. Lasted a couple of hours and covered everything in sand; at one time the sand was very thick in the air.

This morning whilst Stanhope was standing on the Poop one of the numerous small fish round the ship jumped right out of the water on to his shoulder, about 20 ft high, and fell on the deck, having a piece bitten out of it by a larger fish, who also jumped as high as the davits in pursuit.

DEPART ADEN

20 May - Monday

Steaming 9 knots up the Red Sea. I left Aden on Saturday 5 pm and found it very warm on Sunday, a light following wind. Had a very short service.

The heat at Aden has touched most of us and that with 18 months of very little vegetable food has given me a formidable attack of prickly heat, developing into small boils, 13 of which I have on my head alone - comment is unnecessary. I have now had boils for 3 months.

The B & I steamer on Saturday brought me Mails from the Admiral and a most handsome memorandum on the way the ship had worked.

22 May - Wednesday

Very seedy from boils and system generally run down. Yesterday very warm.

TRANSIT SUEZ CANAL

25 May - Saturday

Arrived at Suez 2 am this morning and at 10 am entered the Canal anchoring in Lake Timsah for the night.

26 May - Sunday

Had a dreadfully busy day having to gare up at every station. Much to my disgust I had to cut my service short on this account, I was holding it in my Cabin on account of the cold.

It is a luxury getting from 90 into 68 to 70 Thermometer, with blankets at night and it is quite picking me up again and doing me much good.

Arrived at Port Said 7 pm and my pilot fouled me of Fearless, damaging my screw slightly. I had to take things out of his hand.

Carey and Brenton paid me a short visit.

27 May - Monday

Had lunch with Brenton and a long chat. He told me he had left the C of E and had service in his cabin for Wesleyans and Presbyterians. He holds a Bible Class every evening in his cabin, and had an average of 5 or 6 attending. The Sailors rest he has started, I think will do well. He tells me he finds it very hard to keep out of debt, something like me.

Had a lot of letters from home, and shall have a lot to do with regard to Coffee House and also I fear pay something towards the Empire Club, being Executor for my dear father. I shall do what is just and right.

AT MALTA

9 June - Sunday

Behind in my journal. On Monday 3rd we arrived at Malta and made fast to the buoy at Somerset Dock. The Phaeton, Heroine, Landrail, and Starling in. I paid my visit to Admiral Buller and went ashore to look for Edward Grogan. Found him at the Army Pay Office, Strada Forni, looking very well.

He told me of dear Francie’s baby having died, but he had no news later than May 17th, so I telegraphed Ted Banbury asking how Francie was. He replied “Flourishing.” I was much relieved in mind.

I dined with the Bullers on Monday night and stayed the rest of my time at the Grogans. Ida looking very well, is going to have another baby in September. Blanche and the children very well. Aileen very active. I do not think she will be pretty, but she is very sharp and bright and lots to say for herself. I am very fond of her for dear Meta’s sake. Gerald and Ethel have Forman features. Ida is such a good mother to Meta’s children.

Thursday and Friday occupied the whole of both days at two Courts Martial. First on Sub Lt Cave, Officer of the Watch on board the Surprise when she sank the SS Nesta, the second on Bourke, Cdr of Surprise.

Cave had not a leg to stand on, the two steamers, steering at right angles. Cave saw her 20 miles before the collision and then forgot all about her and in fact until the Surprise struck the Nesta on her Port Quarter, no one in either ship noticed they were running into each other. The Surprise engines were going ahead, when she was half way through Nesta and brought up by the screw shaft of Nesta.

It was gross negligence on the part of Cave. He lost all seniority (2 years), dismissed his ship and severely reprimanded. Bourke was of course in no way to blame and secured his ship very promptly and well. The Court acquitted him and desired to mark their high appreciation of the way in which he secured damaged parts and brought her into Malta.

Last night I left Malta for Gib, having spent a very pleasant time there and made the acquaintance of Major and Mrs Sherard, and all the Wiseleys. The father has been 27 years Presbyterian Minister at Malta. Knew dear Meta well, and told me some astonishing stories of the tremendous power of the Jesuits at Rome and at Malta. A few months ago they stopped all education at Malta, in the way of allowing the Maltese to learn to read and write their own language, which had been going on for 7 years. He also told me some astonishing stories of the awful importunes carried on by some Sicilian Jesuits. Some three years ago when the Bishop had one case of stigmata investigated, it was found to be chicken’s blood. On reporting this to Rome, the Jesuits had so much power that he was removed. At present every member of the Government is a Roman Catholic and the Jesuits practically rule Malta.

AT GIBRALTAR

17 June - Monday

At 6 am on Saturday we arrived and made fast to the New Mole, Gibraltar and took in a little coal. I paid my visit to Captain St John and dined with him that night, meeting Mrs St John and the two young ladies; eldest engaged to Marsden, a young fellow in the King’s Royal Rifles. The mother and two daughters rather empty I should think, but pleasant people and lively.

Sunday I took Communion at the Cathedral and in the afternoon Hibbert and I drove out to the cemetery, I to see Uncle George’s grave and Hibbert to see a young brother. Uncle George died 22.1.87 aged 52.

In the evening I went to a meeting at the Soldiers’ Institute and with several of the men bore witness to our Lord, giving a reason of my hope.

This afternoon I got underway at 3 pm just as Heroine rounded the Mole.

26 June - Wednesday

I left Gibraltar on Monday the 17th and got home after a passage of six days, the last two being in fog.

Just as I left the New Mole, the Heroine rounded it and as I moved the engines ahead, a boat came alongside and passed a letter up for me. I went ahead again and glanced through the letter, found it was from Frank Hookey, my first cousin whom I had not heard of for years. He wrote telling me he was 3rd mate of the Lisbon, a steamer engaged in Spanish and Portuguese trade and he had seen in the papers I was on my way home.

The Lisbon was at anchor not 300 yards off my ship during my stay at Gibraltar. I suppose he did not like to make himself known on account of his stupid and foolish conduct in running through his money (he evidently does not know me). I was just able to make him out with my Binoculars. We waved our Hats to each other.

On Sunday evening, the 16th, the fog lifting we made out the Lizard and that evening at 11 pm anchored in the Sound.

AT PLYMOUTH

On Monday we went outside again for our Full Speed Trial and on coming into harbour were soon full of wives, sisters and sweethearts and at 2 pm we went into Barnpool.

Everything uncertain about our movements. We have been surveyed by Dockyard to see whether we are fit for Surveying Service or not. Report is most favourable, so most likely to go round to Sheerness to pay off. Most hard on the men, she being a West Country ship.

Buz came down on Tuesday to stay with me, looking very well.

3 July - Wednesday

No news of the ship. Came down to Devonport until the night of the 28th and off I had to go on Saturday at 10 am leaving Oliver my steward behind for I had given him leave to go to Teignmouth to see his mother who is ill.

Buz and I paid a visit to the cemetery and saw the tomb of our loved ones before leaving.

I left the Sound at 11 am and with fine weather and smooth water, steamed 10½ knots all the way to Sheerness, the Admiral Sir William Dowell, having told me I ought to be at Sheerness Sunday night. I passed through the Downs Sunday Forenoon, the cliffs, towns, country and numerous ships made a very pleasing sight. I passed the Valorous in Downs easily.

On arriving at Nore found Northampton, Hercules and Rupert awaiting the arrival of the Shah on Monday. I proceeded up to Black Stakes and had supper with an old family friend, Admiral Lethbridge, who was so glad to see me, and after a little talk, said he would inspect me on Wednesday, as he could not before. On my pointing out that it would bring us very close to mobilisation, he said “I’ll not inspect you at all and will inform the Admiralty.” I should think a unique case of a ship coming home and not being inspected.

ARRIVE SHEERNESS

On the Monday came into Basin. I rushing about everywhere managed to get 80 men from Barracks and 14 Stokers. Not bad.

Find I cannot pay off before the 18th of this month.

7 July - Sunday

Last Wednesday E.D. and Lel came down to the ship with Miss Georgy Stapleton. We had a most enjoyable day together lunching on board the ship and having tea with the Lethbridges at Admiralty House. The Admiral came to the ship two or three times to see the girls. Hibbert lunched with us.

I took the girls for a run in the Steam Cutter and went on board the Northampton. They much enjoyed themselves and I also enjoyed much pleasure at seeing the dear girls together. We had a little prayer in my cabin thanking God for His great goodness in bringing us together once more. The girls looking very well and happy and full of sprits, may God bless them.

I saw them off at 7 55 pm for town. Buz I am glad to say is still with me. Miss G. Stapleton, a nice girl. Looks pretty at times. That evening Buz and I had a little prayer together.

On the previous day (Tuesday) I had sat on a Court Martial and met Kelham and Niblett. On the next day went to C.M. as Prosecutor to try Mackenzie AB for his misdeeds at Malta. 1. Drunk. 2. Breaking out of ship. 3. Using threatening language to his superior officer. 4. Lifting up a weapon. Prisoner pleaded guilty. Sentence 18 months hard labour. Dismissed the Service.

Custance writes me that he is anxious I should take some Carrier Pigeons with me during the manoeuvres. I am delighted to take them.

Down with my influenza, a great trial, on Friday and Saturday. No one knows how trying I find it, but keep it as quiet as I can so that it shall not operate against me in the Service. It is really a thorn in my flesh. So be it. Sometimes I feel very lonely and desolate and wish I had a home of my own. I want someone who is ‘All in all’ to me and I to her, maybe if so, it would not be good. I could not stand her loss or further trials in that way.

E.D., I am glad to say went with Lady Hall to Garden Party at Marlborough House.

A cluster of sad memories about this time of year. June 29th our sainted mother left us leaving an unfulfilled void in my heart. This day, dear Russell (7 July) and on the 29th our dear old father, a head and shoulders above men.

Took Communion with dear Buz this forenoon. He is a dear fellow, very affectionate and I hope is gong to do well at Cambridge.

9 July - Tuesday

Buz and I went to town this morning by early train, an unusual hour for Buz to rouse up, and had pleasant meeting with the girls.

Called at Admiralty. Met Lord Walter Kerr at entrance and thanked him for appointment. He told me I only just arrived in time. Then saw Custance, who told me the Admiralty had forgotten to appoint anyone to Racoon and that is how I got it. Had an interview with Stansfield, Sir Vesey Hamilton’s Private Secretary, who could not tell me where Stanhope was going, but told me Abdy was to be my Executive Officer, but I was to say nothing about it as Captain Bedford of Britannia might make a row and fuss.

From Admiralty rejoined girls and Buz at Co-Op and had lunch there with Lel. I called on the Kennedys and had a chat with them. K. the same as ever. Alice grown very plain, but I believe a very nice girl. Saw an ideal painting of Alice on ivory, very pretty, but not a bit like. Fortunately Lel gave me a hint as to who it was meant for.

Called on Lady Fremantle and then at 4 20 met Ted Banbury at St Pancras and went down to The Hyde, near Luton. A most beautiful house, I’ve seen, a very pretty park and Madame de Falbe’s place, Luton Hoo is nearly opposite. It belongs to Mr Lyon, second son of Lord Stamford and Mrs Banbury has rented it for a year.

Very bad with influenza and talking with Francie I quite broke down, feeling so low and thinking of family losses. Returned to town, found the girls and Buz waiting up for me.

11 July - Thursday

Returned to ship yesterday, having gone about town with Buz.

This afternoon had 5 o’clock tea with the Fanes, meeting a very nice girl there, Miss Cowell, daughter of Sir John Cowell.

12 July - Friday

Very bad with influenza caught through a draught blowing on my back at dinner last night at mess. Eye much inflamed.

I had 5 o’clock tea today on board Sapphire meeting the Fanes and Miss Cowell.

I omitted to mention that on Wednesday I had an interview with Lady Hope regarding the Coffee House. She was very pleasant and at last the arrangement come to was that Lady Hope would run the whole thing if I could raise a guarantee of £200, to try the experiment for a couple of years. So I must make to.

Much tried at dinner by draught.

14 July - Sunday

My eyes still bad yesterday. Suffered much discomfort. Delighted at getting a letter from Dr MacDonald saying my case is hopeful; shall see him on Wednesday.

Some of the appointments out. Stanhope to Narcissus, Mr Adam to Arethusa, Davenport to Sandfly.

20 July - Saturday

At Spithead. This last week has been most busy one for me. On Monday last we were busy getting Penguin ready for paying off.

Tuesday. Osborne of the Steam Reserve inspected the ship and she was beautifully clean. Down below, the men having slept on board Monday night, the Lower Deck was not so clean, so after Captain Curtis had paid the ship off, I kept Stanhope and the men had a good clean of the Lower deck.

At 1030 the men left the ship and at 1130 some of them were on board other ships for the manoeuvres. Some of them with over £100 in their pockets.