Mediterranean Station 1889

HMS MELITA

[Composite screw sloop]

1889: Joins Racoon fleet exercises Spithead Review - Visit of Kaiser and German Squadron - Fleet exercises in Channel - Visit to The Elms - Appointed to Melita - Passage to Malta - Conversations with Prince Louis of Battenberg - Commissions Melita - Princess Louise of Battenberg - Senior officer at Alexandria and Port Said - Meets Miss Ker 1890: Visits Cairo and pyramids with Miss Ker - Social life in Alexandria - Visits to Port Said - Proposal and engagement to Miss Olga Ker - Olga returns to England - Visits Malta and Sicily - Visits Suakin, Sudan - Treatment of natives - Malta. Lord Charles Beresford. 1891: Collects 4 ton capital from Cyprus -To Suakin - Battle of Tokar - Port Said - Visits Beyrout and E. Med ports - Salvage of Seignelay - Malta - Cruise in Adriatic and Ionian Sea - Disappointment not promoted - Alexandria, Port Said, Suez and Suakin 1892: Promoted Captain - Returns to UK.

1889

IN LONDON - ON LEAVE

23 July - Tuesday

Stanhope & I went up to town by the 12.50 train. Buz met me at the station and took my luggage over to Paddington.

I rushed in to the city and did a lot of business, and got out to Kensington at 7 pm. Found I had left my Portmanteau at Paddington so had to run there and get it back and eventually spent a quiet evening with the dear girls.

The following day we all went to Dr Greville MacDonald, with whom I had an appointment, and my heart was in an anxious state.

He saw me and I felt had diagnosed my complaint aright, when he said “What’s the matter with you is, the two sides of the mucous membrane of right nostril are always touching each other and thus keeping up a constant inflammation, affecting eye. Your case is most hopeful and cauterising it half a dozen times might cure it, but, in any case, will very much alleviate it.”

I left the house, my heart very full and thanked God for the hope I had. I felt it hard to realise that my years of trial were coming to an end. No one knows what a trial these last nine years have been to me and I had almost reconciled myself to leaving the service, so bad did I feel at times. I earnestly pray the means for my cure will have God’s blessing.


The girls and Buz were so happy at hearing such good news. May I never forget God’s goodness to me. Lel and Buz returned home, E.D. and I into the city to see John Taylor, 5 York Yard. I had a long chat with him about Coffee House and he said he would see what he could do and, at 3 pm, I left Paddington for Plymouth, the girls and Buz seeing me off.

AT PLYMOUTH - JOINED RACOON

Slept at the Royal Hotel, Devonport, and at 9 am on Thursday the 18th July, hoisted the pennant. Busy settling down reading stations to men, who came on board that morning. Getting stock in.

The next day left the harbour, had full speed trial and inspected by C-in-C. Exercised closing watertight doors and after swinging ship left at 8 pm for Portsmouth.

Came through the Needles this morning, took wrong billet by mistake. Shifted berth and moored by 11 am. Most of the ships here. Not bad considering that at 9 am Thursday, all the ships received new men and are now stationed ready for an action.

AT SPITHEAD

24 July - Wednesday

Since our arrival last Saturday, it has been blowing and raining the whole time. I’ve not troubled the shore in consequence or visited ships.

Last Sunday, I was unable to hold Service as no Prayer or Hymn Books have been supplied, my demand for them being sent back. I have written a letter about it.

I caught a chill on Sunday night, and had a terrible cold all Monday and Tuesday. On Monday I was on my back nearly all day. I am counting the days to the time when I shall be under Dr MacDonald’s treatment.

28 July - Sunday

Been more or less seedy all the last week. On Friday I went ashore and met a lot of old shipmates at the Club. Found Gladstone rushing about endeavouring to buy Hymn Books. I wrote a pretty stiff letter about their not being supplied but got no satisfaction, so must buy some for the men.

A fine collection of ships here now. On Friday, we dressed ship for the Queen. The yacht passed within 50 yards of our stern and Queen rose up and bowed as our bugler saluted.

Klein [?] cruising about in the Wave with his brigade of R.N.A.V. They were coming to church on board here, but missed doing so through my mistaking the time and poor fellows, after a two mile pull, they arrived just as we had finished service, much to my regret.

8 pm. To my great delight this afternoon the First Lieut came to me and said Dr Lory had requested permission to hold a voluntary service on forecastle at 6 pm. Of course gave my assent and lent my Harmonium, as my cook plays. Loring & I had a nice spiritual talk together and there was a very good meeting on just abaft Top Glt. Fxle. I did not think it judicious to attend as it prevents men going, for fear of being said to curry favour with the Captain, but D.V., I intend dropping in some Sunday.

29 July - Monday

Shah went by in Victoria and Albert down the lines of ships. Queen on Saturday and Friday, on Friday she passed close under the stern of Racoon and acknowledged our salute from our bugle. We dressed ship each time and manned nettings. I must say, I think our Most Gracious Majesty shows and evinces precious little interest in the Navy. She dislikes the service. Why? Except that they are too independent for her. I do not know.

Buz came down to the ship to pay me a visit.

1 August - Thursday

Colonel Hibbert came to ship on a visit to his son, a Lieut. Put up in my cabin. I had a small dinner party.

2 August - Friday

Ships in very good line, numerous yachts about, a lot of ladies came off to the ship. I had all Mr Burns’ party from the yacht Capercailzie, a large steam vessel of 500 tons. Our acquaintance began on Thursday night by our exercising our Electric light and turning it on, the yacht anchored not far off. We saw everyone very distinctly and handkerchieves being waved, and much laughter and they evidently enjoyed seeing the light.


The German Squadron hove in sight about 4 pm, preceded first by a lot of sailing yachts, then a number of steam vessels (yachts). The Squadron came up in single column, Osborne slightly leading the Hohenzollern and their ships kept very good station and were manned round the turrets and decks, the men looking very well in their blue trousers and white frocks.

They remained at attention the whole time their ships were passing through the English lines and, I am sorry to say, when the Yachts and first few ships of the Germans had passed, some of our ships let their men stand about. The Emperor as far as I could see, stood on the Paddle Box, bareheaded most of the time.

4 August - Sunday

Yesterday the inspection day. Rain and heavy gale from SW rendering all idea of Emperor going round out of the question and a signal was seen flying. “Inspection on Monday instead.” Wind moderating, I lunched on board Yacht. Banquet took place last night as it could not be put off. Fortunately for us all, the weather moderated, but in going ashore in the steam cutter we were very nearly swamped.

Providentially a Steam Pinnace was passing, close to us and I hailed her, and sent our men back by her to ship, and I went on, and even though thus lightened, we had a narrow escape from being swamped. God was very good to us.

On arriving at the Victoria Hall, I soon took in the situation viz: that our committee had not realized the magnitude of having 400 to dinner. The Cloak Room was a small room fitter for 40 than 400 and when at last we sat down to dinner, marching down to the strains of the old tune Roast Beef of Old England - the waiting was execrable and food not to be got. No potatoes for anyone. It was simply disgraceful. I understand the wine was not good.

I was sitting at the centre of one table and had two very good fellows (Germans) on each side. The speeches were good and received with much enthusiasm; the fourth toast “German officers & Navy being drunk with all honours and singing, etc. Admiral Von Kall, in replying, paid us a high compliment in telling the German officers never to forget that when their Navy was first started, their best officers were sent to the English Navy to learn their duty and that all they had learnt, they had acquired from the English Navy. Admiral Baird replying, said that we had learnt as much from them as they had from us.

A lot of speeches were made, all very good and finally at 11.30 pm we broke up. I got on board at 2 am. The Hon. Sec’y. apologised at having had my name printed as sitting at one of the tables, knowing I did not wish to go, but, he told me, he was obliged to take me.

Looking up to the Gallery, who should I see, looking hard at me and trying to attract my attention but Miss Harward and her sister. I did not recognise them at first, but when I did, they were so delighted. I had not time to run up and see them. Altogether the Banquet as far as the feeding went was a failure, but the political effects must have been good.

I must say, the Admiralty as usual gives very little encouragements on these occasions.


Today was a lovely day until 5 pm when it began to rain. The Emperor only managed to inspect the Howe and No 79 Torpedo Boat, Prince George’s boat. I could not help thinking the rain was sent by reason of the non-observance of the Lord’s Day.

Last Wednesday (31 July) Buz and I went to a meeting at Miss Weston’s, of the Naval Christian Union and it was most edifying to hear the men testifying. The question was a practical one of living as a witness on board ship, and it was the unanimous testimony that men must not be blanket Christians, but kneel down openly. I spoke a few words at the end, saying I was of the same way of thinking. I suppose there were over 100 ‘out and outers’ there this evening.

Dr Lory held the voluntary service forward, and I attended. A good few of the men there. We prayed and sung and Lory spoke very simply, and very well and to the point. Afterwards I had a very nice talk with him, he is a very earnest Christian and a great help to one.

5 August - Monday


Blowing hard all day. We dressed ship and at 4 pm the Royal Yacht passed through the lines, flying the English and German standards at the Main. At 5 pm all the Captains and Cdrs in Command repaired to the Howe and, on the Victoria and Albert anchoring, we were bundled off to her like a lot of liberty men, in such a lump of a sea. I never saw such a disgraceful thing and much difficulty was experienced in getting on board the Yacht.

As we got up, we found the deck crowded with officers of all kinds. We were bustled round the stern, and introduced to the German Emperor, who shook hands and a bow to the Prince of Wales and it was over. A lot of ladies were standing behind, I had no idea who they were.

Going away it was just the same and it rather annoyed me to see the netting rail of Yacht lined by ladies and Princes who seemed rather amused at the acrobatic feats of the Admirals, Captains, and Commanders getting wet and into their boats.

Prince Henry of Prussia was there and I saw the Princess of Wales and her two daughters. I believe there were many other Royalties. I saw and shook hands with Admiral Hornby. Admiral Baird ran away too soon and I heard the Prince of Wales order him to be sent for. The Emperor is of medium height, short left arm. Looks a self willed young man and evidently fond of being ‘The Hub’, but of being popular. Is of robust build, with a light moustache. He was dressed in Admiral of the Fleet (British) Uniform, as was the Prince of Wales. I think everyone was very disgusted with the business and I think it was a mistake having the Reception on board the Yacht.

Signal to unmoor at 3.30 am tomorrow morning.


9 August - Friday

On Tuesday at 3.30 am we unmoored, and at 5 am Racoon was steaming to the Eastward through the lines. Inconstant soon followed. On getting outside the Needles, found it blowing very fresh and a very lumpy sea. There being no signs of C & D Squadron, I was sent back and I found them anchored in Yarmouth Roads. I was ordered to recall Inconstant and then return, so at 2 pm I was at anchor in Yarmouth Roads, off Isle of Wight.

Next morning, we got underway at 3.30 am and steamed down in company with C and D Squadrons to Plymouth, passing B Fleet on the way. We arrived at Plymouth 8 pm. Racoon went up harbour at once to coal. The next morning, we commenced coaling and at 9 am having finished went out into the Sound.

I went ashore and saw Commander in Chief and then on to the Hunt-Grubbes to lunch meeting. E.D. and Ella there, who are paying a visit. It was very pleasant meeting them and I took them back with me to the ship, where they spent the rest of the afternoon. Lady Hunt-Grubbe and the two daughters - Mary and Olive coming off as well, to 5 o’c tea.

AT PLYMOUTH

10 August - Saturday

Dined last night at the Hunt-Grubbes. Met General and Mrs Elphinstone there, both very pleasant people. Went on to Lady Dowell’s who had a small dance, chaperoned E.D. and Lel. Got into a conversation with the youngest Miss Dowell.

12 August - Monday

Yesterday dear Buz was 21 years of age. Wrote him a line. Went ashore about 1 pm had lunch with the Hunt-Grubbes, and then took E.D. and Lel out to the Cemetery where we visited the grave that holds the remains of our loved ones; first Willie in 1856; then our mother in 1875, and dear Meta in 1881. We had a silent little prayer at the side of grave.

Attended evening service at Dockyard Chapel. Dr Dickenson preached, very disappointed at his sermon (too fond of telling anecdotes) and not spiritual enough to my mind.

Went ashore this afternoon saw Mary H-G beaten at lawn tennis in tournament. A nice girl. Came off at 7 pm having had a little walk with the girls.

13 August - Tuesday

E.D., Lel, and Olive Hunt-Grubbe came off at 11 am, and at 1 pm we lunched with Captain Warren of Inconstant who amused us very much by his observations on people in general, showing he is a keen observer of human nature. After lunch I took the girls for a sail, and returned to tea on board; the officers coming also, and we had a very pleasant party, and at 6 pm I sailed the girls ashore. They having had a most Enjoyable day, as they said.

14 August - Wednesday

39 years of age. Truly I can repeat the 103 Psalm with all truth. How merciful, how loving, how tenderly, has the Lord led me, the past 12 months - spiritually and temporally - truly it is good to wait on the Lord - and my earnest desire and yearnings of my heart are that I may grow in grace and love and live for the Lord Jesus who has done so much for me and mine. I am utterly unworthy of the least of thy mercies, my Lord, my God. They are so great and abound, I cannot recount them. I see, I thank my God - How He leads me in Everything - Small and great - Appointments and Stations “Ye are my Witness. Come out and be yet separate saith the Lord. Let these be my motives for the forthcoming year - and I know, that He will guide me as regards the Social duties, that my official position entails on me. Amen.

DEPART PLYMOUTH - FLEET EXERCISES IN CHANNEL

15 August - Thursday

Started at 6 am. Commander-in-Chief saw us on board Vivid. Nasty day, tumbling sea, mist at time and strong winds and breeze. My nose and eyes giving me much trouble.

16 August - Friday

Up nearly all last night on deck, cold wind and driving thick mist touched my nose up and eyes very much. Anxious work going along 8 knots in a fog. At 11 pm lost sight of No 34 Torpedo Boat.

17 August - Saturday

At 11 am yesterday steamed to meet Inconstant, and at 1 pm sighted her, and soon afterwards four Ironclads and one cruiser belonging to Atlantic Fleet.

After making number, Inconstant ordered me to return and look for No 34 TB and rejoin her South of Portland, but, in case I did not find her, to go to Prawle Point and communicate with C-in-C by telegraph. I steamed hard, and saw nothing of her, so at 4.30 pm I steamed for Prawle Point. At 5 pm it came on thick and dirty and I had to ease down from 12 kn to 10 kn.

At 10 pm I managed to pick up the Start Light, and very soon afterwards, it came on to blow, with a nasty mist. I could not see the land. I laid to until 4 am then steered in for the land, and at 5.30 made it. Fortunately the weather cleared up, and I soon picked up signal Station on Prawle Point, and got my message through to Admiral.

Heard at 9 am 34 TB was in Port and I was to go to my station, so, off I went and at 1 pm picked up Inconstant, communicated by signal and then steamed down to La Hague and took up station for cruising. The Fort at Alderney practised her guns at firing, which brought down Inconstant, thinking an enemy was about.

18 August - Sunday

Nothing of note happened during the night. At 9 am made out the Inconstant, and closed her. On going aboard received mails and heard that nothing was known of Admiral Baird’s whereabouts, and that Admiral Tryon’s Fleet might fall back on our line, viz La Hague to Portland.

Received mails and employed the rest of the day cruising up and down. At 9 pm saw Electric Light flash from Cherbourg, 18 miles, and also the glare from St Catherine’s, which by our bearings must have been 52 miles off.

There were not more than 12 men at the voluntary service this evening.

19 August - Monday

This morning at 2 am sighted Inconstant. Exchanged Private Signals with her and parted at 3 am. Met her again at 10 am and paid Capt. Warren a visit and learnt the news from him.


20 August - Tuesday

Last night the Barometer, having gone down a good deal and the sky looking very threatening. At 11.30 pm I packed No 23 Torpedo Boat off for Portland until weather cleared up and at 4 am it came on to blow very hard from the Westward with a lump of a sea making Racoon knock about very much. Everyone feeling it more or less. Running down to station before sea, she rolled her gunwales to water’s edge and lapped in water. Over 30.

Met Inconstant at 6.30 pm. Heard that Camperdown, Hero, Immortalité and Mercy had been captured by Admiral Tryon and christened with Irish names and added to his force. Admiral Baird had returned to Queenstown to coal and left again. Lt Colville of No 55 reports that enemy’s Torpedo Boats passed him last night.

Shall be glad to get out of my boots, when war is over.


21 August - Wednesday

Cruising off Cape La Hague. Dined with the Ward Room Officers.

22 August - Thursday

Blowing hard, and a lump of a sea on made the ship knock about very much last night. Steamed to Portland for coal, arrived there 6 am, and, commenced coaling at 8 am. Had a yarn with Schomberg of Boscawen and Needham of Prince Albert. The General Admiral (Russian) here coaling.

Feel very tired, up all last night. Received a mail.

23 August - Friday

Finished coaling at 11 pm last night, and at 1 am left Portland. Passed Prince Albert at 3 am. Picked up Inconstant at 6 am. Had some of the officers to dinner this evening.

24 August - Saturday

No 23 Torpedo Boat leaking badly. I took her back to Portland and resumed my patrolling off Cape La Hague.

25 August - Sunday

Dear Francie’s birthday. A fine lovely day, had Divine Service on board and Dr Lory had a voluntary service on the fore part of the Upper Deck, which I attended. Received mails from the Inconstant, and heard of Anson and Collingwood having captured Aberdeen and Peterhead.

26 August - Monday

Last night at 11.30 pm, Daniel the officer of the watch reported a suspicious steamer ahead. I ran on deck and thought there was something up, for lights came and went. I turned my electric light on her, but could see nothing as she was too far off but my light was the signal for the stranger to blaze into me. I legged it off at once for Portland, in order to reach the Inconstant as I thought the stranger was an enemy, for I could not get the Private Signals answered correctly.

The stranger came after me, but as I was very soon going 14 knots, I dropped her. We went on exchanging signals, until I was sure the stranger was the Inconstant, but evidently she did not think I was Racoon for she went on firing for some time. At last she ceased, and I turned to go back, having my lights burning, but Inconstant put hers out.

Suddenly we were all dazed by her Electric light shining on us, that I thought she was into us, and I went full speed astern. I then turned my light on her, and saw distinctly it was Inconstant some 400 yards off. She was not yet quite satisfied with my identity, for she carefully looked me over with her light. At last we separated, she then making signals, which I could not understand.

This forenoon we met again and I went on board and saw Warren, and it turned out even when we parted last night, he was not quite satisfied as to my identity. He had sent Lt Colville (No 55) to torpedo me. I suppose he could not find me for I certainly was not torpedoed. Warren had fired nine heavy guns at me. I’m glad I did not fire. The mistake was kept up simply through the Private Signals being too complicated and also through the lack of good signalmen.

28 August - Wednesday

Patrolling all yesterday and today. Warren and I stopped close to each other yesterday and I lunched with him. We should be at Plymouth tomorrow.

RETURN PLYMOUTH

30 August - Friday

Wednesday night picked up the Inconstant for an hour we thought she was a torpedo Boat. The night being very clear her lights were seen a long way off, but they appeared near.

At 4 am yesterday we picked up Prince Albert and steered for Plymouth, having five hours’ fog on the way. At 2 pm arrived and we went straight up the harbour to buoy off Keyham, and so ended our share in the Manoeuvres.

Met E.D. this morning, who came down from Lancaster, Ella going on to Montgomeryshire. We lunched at the Hunt-Grubbes and I saw her off at 2 pm. Troubled with a large boil under my right arm.

2 September - Monday

Wrote Lord Walter Kerr today about a ship.

8 September - Sunday

Paid Racoon off on Friday 6th, and, after seeing the Admirals up to town, had the pleasure of meeting E.D. and Buz.

On Saturday to the Admiralty. Found none of the Lords there but Admiral Hotham, with whom I had a long chat, about the ships. He showed me his minutes on the improved Medeas - the new Battleships. He asked me to come and see the Controller on Monday. I had Stanhope’s, Hibbert’s, and Mr Lob’s, also Abdy’s services noted and my reports on them.

At 12.30 drove with E.D. to Dr Greville MacDonald and very soon underwent my first operation of having my nose cauterized inside. Not feeling it on account of cocaine.

E.D. to Mrs Streatfield to lunch, I to the Club. Met Jim Barrow and others there, and then, on and picked up E.D. at Mrs Streatfield’s. The latter evidently very nice manners but only saw her for a few minutes. She seemed very pleasant as also her sister Miss Arkwright.

A nice long talk with E.D. this evening. A capital sermon this morning at St Pauls, Onslow Square on Jehoshaphat, Micaiah and Ahab.

9 September - Monday

This morning, went to the Admiralty, and saw Admiral Hopkins the Controller. I had a long chat with him about vessels in general. He asked me to go and see Mr White the Chief Constructor, and sent a message over to him, so, I went to his room and had a long chat with him. Then saw Custance & Dickinson and lunched at Club, met Capt. Durrant and Sir G Tryon, who told me he should like to see me at his office some time in the afternoon. So I paid him a visit and he then explained all his reasons for having placed the ships as he did.

At 5 pm I went into the city to see John Taylor, but found him out.

10 September - Tuesday

Operated on again today by Greville MacDonald. Some difficulty rendering the nose insensible. The uncertainty of it, made me quite faint, and I just managed to keep up. Rather tried me, I earnestly pray that I may be blessed with a cure.

13 September - Friday

Operated on by the Doctor, very successful. A nice letter from Lord Walter Kerr.

15 September - Sunday

Attended service at St Jude’s, Kensington.

17 September - Tuesday

Went to the Doctor this morning (4th visit), but in consequence of my nose being impaired he could do but little - so I go again on Thursday.

Yesterday I met Lady Hall and took her to Mrs Rich’s, 104 St George’s Square. She was looking very well. Previously to meeting her, I had been to John Taylor of Tokenhouse Yard. I found it was hopeless getting him to take the Coffee House up, so I must now see if John Cory will take it over for the Salvation Army.

18 September - Wednesday

Dined last night at Riches. Met Mr and Mrs Stevenson there, found out we were Mids together in 1865 and 1866 in Narcissus. He left soon afterwards. I remember Stevenson having drunk too much with some Germans, who were visiting the ship, got overcome, was promptly cobbed by the Seniors of mess and sick into my Basin in Chest.

George Stapleton to 5 o’clock tea, to meet Lady Hall who came over yesterday.

Called on the Stapletons with E.D, having previously called myself on Mrs Durrant.

19 September -Thursday

Had a most successful operation by Dr Greville MacDonald. I found out he was son of George MacDonald. He told me his father lived up to the writings and was such a good man and you know he said sons are very critical.

Lunched with Mrs Payne, E.D. with me.

27 September - Friday

Last Friday I went down to Elms and met Taylor at dinner. Found a great commotion going on about Chadburn the organist. Yearsley having dismissed him and requiring Taylor to do the same as Chadburn had been very impudent to Yearsley afterwards.

On Saturday had a good look over the Coffee House having met a Mr Harrap the evening before (of Leicester) (he having been asked by McCash to run over and have a look at it). I have determined, D.V., to re-open it again on a more business footing.

In the afternoon drove over with Mother to call on the Curzons at Lockington. Found the Derby Archaeological Society paying a visit, as they were inspecting Bob Storey’s Church, to which we all adjourned. B.S. with notes, evidently nothing about Archaeology, but a learned don held forth on everything. We all had tea with Mrs Curzon, where I met Mrs Newton and young Jimmy [?]. I was not much taken with the young man’s face.

Sunday. Mother and I went to Early Communion at Taylor’s Church and in the afternoon attended the Harvest Festival Service. Church very full.

Monday. Miller & Taylor dined at Elms, the former a Solicitor in Nottingham. Inclined to have a very good opinion of himself and lay the law down.

Tuesday. At Taylor’s, had to lunch Mr Miller.

On Monday I went to Leicester on a begging Expedition and interviewed several people, raised £3-7- and a promise of a donation. The Mayor did not give me anything as he told me his Mayoralty had cost him £3000. The next man for Mayor, Dr Lankester, told me he did not intend giving any alcoholic drinks at his Entertainments. I did not find a begging mission a very pleasant one. Came to town on Tuesday.

Wednesday. Lunched at Club

Thursday. Re yesterday, went to Doctor (6th visit). Everything went off very well. He told me, two more cauterising would do. I am very busy about the Coffee House, which I intend setting on its legs again, D.V.

Met Francie, at Co-op by chance. She came and dined with Buz and I on the way home. Dear Francie and I had a long chat together on spiritual matters.

28 September - Saturday

Walked into Club and on to London Bridge for Coffee House Books and then back to Club for lunch. Saw Sir Henry Keppel, he is getting rather deaf. Ed & Buz called for me and we all walked back together through the Park.

29 September - Sunday

Service at St Judes in the morning, and in the Evening went to Exeter Hall. Heard Mr Owers speak, (Buz being with me) he spoke with great earnestness.

1 October - Tuesday

With a heart full of gratitude to God, I pen the following line. I went to the Doctor who told me he had nearly finished with me. Then seeing E.D. who always comes with me to the Doctor, which I much appreciate - home. I went to the Club and there received a note from Lord Walter Kerr, saying Lord George Hamilton had nominated me for the Melita.

I at once went round and thanked him and saw Sir Vesey Hamilton, who on my remarking that Bertie was a hard working officer, said, he would not be the son of his father, if he was not. I did not apply for the Melita, and never dreamt I should get her; and wondered who her Commander was, when I saw the officers appointed on Saturday.

Mrs Streatfield and her sister Miss Arkwright came to 5’oc tea, both very charming people. Pleased to hear Mrs S. was a Total Abstainer and after they had left, Miss Newton and her sister Rossie Newton came in, the former just off to Jaffa again to rejoin the C.M.S. station there.

3 October - Thursday

To the Doctor 8th visit. He could not do much on account of my nose being inflamed, so I go again on Saturday. He told me he went out to China in P & O Kashgar, and one thing struck him about sailors, viz the intense love of home they have, and also that they were generally thinking men.

To club, wrote seven letters, then to St James Hall, found it packed some 35 or 40 missionaries taking their leave. Did not wait until the end. Rev Eugene Stock the Sec’y was speaking whilst I was in.

4 October - Friday

Dined last night with the Durrants, meeting amongst others my old shipmate Fane and two nieces of Mrs Durrant; the youngest a very nice girl and pretty.

5 October - Saturday

My appointment in today’s paper. With E.D. went over to the Doctors. My 9th visit, and he finished cauterising me, having altogether removed from my right nostril, a swelling equal to four split peas. He did very high up today, and strung me up a bit, but the knowledge that he was finishing me up, enabled me to stand it. It is pleasant having E.D. with me, as I generally get faintish, she always remains until I’m alright.

Many people answering my Advertisement in Christian for a Manager & Wife for Coffee House. I hope Taylor will help me. It seems so very curious to me that no one in village, I mean parson, squire and my stepmother feel inclined to help in keeping it going. I mean in sympathy.

10 October - Thursday

Last night I spoke to the Band of Hope children for a quarter of an hour E.D. & Lel being with me. Into the city today to Dollands and then to Paternoster Row and Co-Op to 5 o’c tea with E.D. and Lel. Rejoiced to find, I have a day longer in London, as I do not go down to Portsmouth until Wednesday.

At Doctor yesterday and on Monday last. Everything going on well. Tomorrow will be my 12th visit.

Buz went to Cambridge yesterday.

11 October - Friday

To the Doctor today. He wishes me to go every day now. After he had finished with me, we got into a long spiritual talk. Telegraphed to Francie and Ted saying I could not come on account of my nose.

12 October - Saturday

E.D, Lel and myself walked into the Haymarket. Lel to see a Dentist. Then I to my Club, saw Dunlop there, who is going to take my old Cook I am very glad to say and then on to my Doctor, who said my nose was going on splendidly.

Told Dr yesterday, that I generally went into Church to lay my desires before God. I generally go into the one in Waterloo Place.

16 October - Wednesday

On Monday I ran down to The Elms for the night, to settle up about the Coffee House. I think it will run all right now, but it has given me much trouble.

Yesterday I came up and today paid my 17th visit to the Doctor. I asked him his charge and tomorrow I pay him £18.18 - so altogether my nose has cost me £23.

I am going to finish up by myself and earnestly pray I may have been effectually cured. I cannot help feeling ‘down’, at going away so soon again, and shall miss dear old Bertie, not seeing him. It has been very pleasant seeing Buz and the girls.

DEPART PLYMOUTH

22 October - Tuesday

Passed Cape St Vincent this morning. Steaming 11 knots, fine weather. Let me revert to the proceedings of last Thursday.

Wednesday Evening. Dear Francie looking very pretty, spent the evening with us, Buz also being there, having come up from Cambridge for the night to see me off.

On Thursday I paid my final visit to the Doctor, and then to Eaton Place wished Francie good-bye. (Ted being away shooting). Little Mike - a very handsome boy turned up - then home where I found Edward Grogan at Mrs Stepney’s, and at 2 pm having had a prayer with E.D, Lel and Buz, started off leaving heavy at heart. Buz saw me off, and at 9 pm I arrived at Plymouth, being met by Oliver and then drove to the Royal Hotel, D’port, where I put up for the night. Next morning, I went off in a Tug to the Tamar lying in the Sound and, proceeding on board, found I had the C.O. cabin in Saloon. A very large commodious place and at 11 am we left the Sound and old England and soon met a nasty sea and strong wind ahead, which we carried up to yesterday, turning nearly everyone up.

A good many officers on board, military and Naval and a few ladies, amongst whom being Mrs Palliser and Mrs Pearson, wife of the Captains of the same name.

What I have seen of Battenberg I like. Being laid up with a bad ankle, sprained deerstalking, he has been a good deal in my cabin laying on a sofa. He is, I know, a good officer and a zealous one, and has very sensible ideas on the service generally.

He told me his wife, Princess Louis, was clever and very enterprising, ready to start for China if he was ordered there.

B. told me some interesting things about printing, which he knows a good deal about, as he was brought up to that trade. He is a well read man and we had some interesting talks together on things in general. He made £30, when the Illustrated London News artist had to leave Seraphis, when Prince of Wales was on board.

AT GIBRALTAR

24 October - Thursday

Arrived and left Gibraltar yesterday.

Ruby came alongside the mole.


I find Battenberg a very nice fellow. I have had long talks with him, he is no doubt zealous, hard-working and determined to get on in the service.

He told me the P of W asked him to go to the Osborne, but he explained to him, that he was most anxious to live down the general idea floating about, viz, that he would be pushed on in Royal Yachts; and the P of W quite understood his desire to work his way up, the same as anyone else.

Battenburg told me how it was P of W was made an Admiral of the Fleet. He, Battenberg, and his wife were staying for some weeks with the Queen at Windsor and generally breakfasted with her outside in the garden. One morning the Queen said “They have been wanting me to make Bertie, an Admiral of the Fleet, but I shall not do it.”

B said nothing, but pricked up his ears, and when alone with his wife, they talked it over. So two mornings later Princess Louis said to Queen. “What was it about Uncle Bertie you were saying re the other morning?.” Upon which the Queen said “When I asked the Admiralty some years ago soon after my marriage to make my husband Admiral of the Fleet, they refused.”

Battenburg, evidently with much tact told Queen how much the Navy would appreciate it, but she said nothing, but a few days afterwards made the P of W one. B told me that no one excepting his wife knew how it came about and requested me never to mention it.

B evidently has much influence with the Queen. He told me the reason why the Duke of E. has not, for he generally takes his full share of wine at dinner and then he asks the Queen things, not using much tact in doing it.

B told me the Queen is always afraid of apoplexy and sits with everything open. The doctors have told her Suite that nothing startling is ever to be told her after dinner for this reason.

Another interesting thing B told me, was that at the Jubilee Review, he was much struck at no signal being made to the Fleet, and suggested it to the Duke of Connaught, who mentioned it to the Queen, who had it made. The Duke of C. and B. writing the draft out for her approval.

He says, she knows little about the Navy and dislikes the water very much. From all that B told me, regarding the Yacht appointments, not only of Commanders but of Lieuts, he has a great deal to do with them, and has much influence. The P. of W. and Queen evidently are very fond of him and refer things for his judgement. B. says Leiningen is a selfish man, and has no respect for him. He keeps up a separate establishment in London, notwithstanding being married to a charming woman; and that he did nothing for the Navy, though for 17 years he had the ear of the Queen.

B. told me a good deal regarding Emperor of Russia, whom he and his brothers (being cousins), used to play with as children and as late as 1880 were great friends with. He is stupid, self willed and very obstinate, and he said had behaved very badly to his brother Alexander, and that he, the Emperor of Russia has an insane idea that Prince Alexander has injured him in some way or other. We had a long and interesting talk regarding Russia, its state and condition.

He told me that the Duke of Edinburgh drinks too much and that my dear father, some years ago, had tried to make him a Total Abstainer, saying he would have such influence. He told me the P. of W. had often talked to him of my father.

ARRIVE MALTA

5 November - Tuesday

Many days behind in my Journal.

Sunday 27th. Tamar arrived in, and much to our joy we found that we had pratique, not withstanding the fact that there was a case of Scarlatina on board. Battenberg and I lunched with Admiral Buller, and met quite a large party there. Went to service in the Evening to the Presbyterian church, and then dined with B. at the Club.

Monday 28th. We turned over to the Melita and shook down for the night.

Tuesday 29th. At 9 am hoisted the pennant and commissioned HMS Melita, 8 guns with 123 men all told. I read my commission and made the men a short speech.

By Saturday the 2nd. we had provisioned and coaled ship, drawn all stores, sails and stationed men, set up and rattled down Topmast Rigging.

Sunday 3rd. Held my first service on board, much disturbed by the Fearless piper playing away at the head of the Church Party, and in the middle of my Sermon.

B. lunched with me, told me some interesting gossip, regarding Court Life, he told me the Queen worked up to 2 am usually, and it was perfectly marvellous how she got through it all.

Made acquaintance of Captain and Mrs Boyd RE, Earnest Xtians, and also one day lunching with Brenton, met Mr Baldwin of missionary fame.

Monday 4th. Got in Powder and Shell. The Fleet came in, Dreadnought (Flag), Colossus, Temeraire, Edinburgh, Calypso.

Paid Sir Anthony Hoskins a visit, most genial to me, and said, he was so glad I had come out to serve under him. I dined that evening with Admiral Buller, ( a small party) to meet Sir Anthony. At 1 am this morning when on board my ship, I was seized with terrible vomitings, and diarrhoea, and between 1 am and 7 am I was sick 7 or 8 times, straining myself a good deal.

I could not get up, and sent for Dr at 5 am. He dosed me, and I lay quiet all this day, taking nothing but Bovril and Arrowroot, and, I’m better now.

Came into Dock. Bottom of the ship very dirty.

Tuesday 5th. Out of Dock, still seedy.

6 November - Wednesday

Still seedy and others in the ship suffering from Diarrhoea vomiting, and the Doctor analysed the water and found it very impure and more so after passing through the filter. Examined the charcoal and found it in a very bad condition.

7 November - Thursday

Harbour gradually filling up with the Fleet. Sir Anthony yesterday left in Surprise for Naples to meet Lady Hoskins.

8 November - Friday

Went to 5 o’c tea at the Boyds and later met Major Sherrard, Col Morton and Carey-Brenton; Inland China Mission people (men). We all spent the evening singing hymns and chatting at the Boyds, and at 10 pm accompanied them to the P&O Valetta.

The Boyds are very nice people. Carey-Brenton breakfasted with me yesterday morning. B. dining night before and lunching next day.

Read warrants for the disrating of two PO 2nd Class to AB’s. Have taken a very long time to think over it, so loth to do it, but the beginning of a commission must take strong measures.

Attended sale of Edward’s things at Sliema this afternoon. Bought a pillow and bolster.

10 November - Sunday

B. breakfasted with me. Attended service after my own at the Presbyterian Church. Revd Mr Wisely, who has been here 36 years, and is the common centre and rendezvous for all Christians. Spent the evening with the Boyds at Sliema.

11 November - Monday

A great deal of calling going on, which takes up one’s time very much.

12 November - Tuesday

Walked over to Sliema to attend a Bible meeting at Captain & Mrs Boyd’s, held by Col Morton, a good number there the previous evening. Dined at the Wiselys, a farewell dinner to Col Morton. Boyd told me he saw some three or four years ago, the boy sent over from Sicily by the Jesuits, who had been blind, and was cured by a miracle in seeing a vision of the Virgin Mary. He saw the marks on each side of hand and on heart, like a scratch with a thorn. The Bishop, who had been and was performing the duty for the aged Archbishop of Malta, had some doubts on the matter and had the boy examined by three of the RC Doctors and Professors.

They examined the youth and found the marks were chicken blood marks. It was reported to the Bishop, who gave the word nothing more was to be said about it. The boy was withdrawn and to show the power of the RC’s here, no one dare mention it. The Jesuits revenged themselves on the Bishop by having the Bishop of Gozo elected to be the Archbishop of Malta, shortly afterwards on the old man dying.

The Jesuits from all I can hear are very influential at Rome now.

13 November - Wednesday

Out to do our steam Trials and Gun Trials. Got 11 knots out of her.

24 November - Sunday

Last night dined quietly with the Bullers, meeting the Princess Louis of Battenberg there. I must confess, it goes against my grain to see such very great deference shown to Royalty, however those who like it, do not mind it, and those who do not like it, must avoid Royalty.

I had a chat with her, but not having seen her before, am not in a position to say much about her. She is not good looking, but her face is intelligent, and I should think she had a will of her own. The last ten days have been spent very quietly, meeting once a week at the Boyds for a Bible meeting. Captain Hames, a man who has seen every phase of life and tried most forms of religion, taking several meetings.

Yesterday, I am sorry to say Fearless left for Suda Bay, Crete. I am glad I have had the opportunity of learning more of Brenton. What a sterling fellow he is.

25 November - Monday

Tug came alongside and took us round to No 3 Buoy opposite the Canteen, ready for photographing tomorrow after the Admiral’s Inspection this morning. Sir Anthony Hoskins and Admiral Buller came on board at 10.30 am, and had a walk round the ship.

DEPART MALTA

26 November - Tuesday

Dined last night with Sir Anthony, a quiet dinner. This morning I went up to see him, and had a long yarn with him. He lent me a lot of his papers to read. He is certainly very kind to me, through being such a friend of my dear father.

Left at 6 pm for Alexandria.

28 November - Thursday

Find ship leaks about an inch an hour between D & E Bulkheads. Everyone very ignorant of their work. Navigator Officer not a genius. Applied Deviation the wrong way and we steered 24 hours a point and a half out of our course. Fortunately we had lots of sea room.

As for the sails, I find I have to do instructor to all. However, I have a very good ship’s company and a hard working 1st Lieut, Inglefield - son of the Admiral.

ARRIVE ALEXANDRIA

3 December - Tuesday

On Monday (yesterday) we arrived here at Alexandria, relieving the Dolphin. Neville, I had not seen for years. He was looking very well. I lunched with him and had a look round his ship. She certainly was looking very clean and in very good order. Her 1st Lieut, Harford, was a mid in the Resistance with me in 1874.

Today, made my Official call on Sir Chas Cookson and General de Montmorency, and then a private one on Admiral Blomfield, lunching with him afterwards, and meeting his wife and a Miss Ker there.

Had a walk through the streets, and read the papers at the Khedivial Club.

6 December - Friday

Yesterday, accompanied by Sir Chas Cookson who presented me, I paid my visit to the Governor Sir Osman Orfi Pasha, who ranks with the Mudir of a province. He was educated in England, and of course speaks English very well. We had coffee, cigarettes, then after a chat, took our departure. Tomorrow he returns my visit.

In the evening, I dined at Cookson’s meeting Baker Pasha, who is in charge of the Egyptian Police. He gave me a lot of information, tending to show how very much, very steadily, the prosperity of Egypt was growing under English protection. Lunched today, at Admiral Blomfield’s who is ill in bed from lumbago.

Pleasant letters from Bertie, E.D, and Lel.

7 December - Saturday

This morning Garnet came in, and Corfe lunched with me. The Governor of Alexandria paid his return call on me, covered with gold lace orders. My cook made most vile coffee.

Morice Pasha also paid me a visit as did also Middlemass Bey. Corfe and I went out by train to Ramleh and called on several People, having tea at the Peels and meeting Miss Peel who is engaged to Anstruther of the Phaeton. They seem a nice family.

9 December - Monday

This afternoon paid official visits to the two Egyptian Admirals, then ashore for a walk. Miss not having someone to talk to. Feel sure that for me it is better not to go out into the world, more than possible.

14 December - Saturday

Dear Rob’s 33rd birthday. Last heard of in New York, working on the staff of the New York World.

The Landrail came in here on Thursday last and that evening, it came on to blow hard from the Westward, and it has been blowing ever since, thus preventing my making a start for Port Said to relieve Neville in the Dolphin.

The Tamar came in this forenoon and reports a heavy sea outside and strong easterly current.

Unable to go and see Cochrane on account of being completely laid up by a bad cold, aches, and pains all over. I’m a delicate piece of mechanism and God has been marvellously gracious to me, preserving me in such health and strength.

DEPART ALEXANDRIA

15 December - Sunday

Left Alexandria this forenoon after service and met a heavy sea on the Bar going through the reefs, and for a short way on, until I rounded Rosetta Point. Made sail.

ARRIVE PORT SAID

17 December - Tuesday

Arrived here (Port Said) last night, found Dolphin in and an Italian Man of War. Took over the Dutch House and Admiralty property at Port Said from Neville of the Dolphin. Lunched with Neville, Middlemass Bey there, and at 2 pm Dolphin sailed.

20 December - Friday

Steaming to Malta the Calliope came through Canal yesterday morning. Was received by a telegram from England ordering her back to Aden, so a number of telegrams began to fly about, as she had 7 court martial prisoners on board, besides 23 time expired men and invalids. The result being, they were all turned over to me to take to Malta. A very great nuisance for I was just beginning to settle down into routine.

Yesterday, I had a long talk with Mr Taylor of the Bible society and Mr Locke of the Sailor’s Welcome. The latter though a little rough is a most earnest Christian man and has sometimes found it very hard to make both ends meet.

TO MALTA

22 December - Sunday

Knocking about a good deal. A rough sea and much rain, prevented me from holding any service I am sorry to say. Seedy myself with a bad headache from the pitching and vibration of screw together with neuralgia in left eye, makes me feel very wretched and long for the peace and quiet of home.

Christmas Day 1889

Bless the Lord! My Soul and all that is within me bless His Holy Name. Bless the Lord and my Soul, and forget not all His benefits. Truly the Lord has been very gracious to me, and my dear ones, whom I often think of and especially this day, I know they are thinking of me.

We had a nice little service this forenoon, and the Lord enabled me to speak out a few straight words.

30 December - Monday

Came in (to Malta) last Thursday, and on seeing Sir Anthony he was very gracious, and said how pleased he was at my having brought up the 32 details, instead of sending some of them up by merchant steamer. He said it reminded him of my father.

I dined that night with him, meeting Russian Captain and officers of Vladimir Monomakh. The Captain told me of his having blown up the first Turkish monitor in 1878 on the Danube.

I had a long discussion with Ashmead Bartlett MP on Total Abstinence, he introducing the subject, and I am glad to say I think I managed to show him that we on our side had a good deal to advance in favour of T.A. On his appealing to the Admiral saying, I had almost made him a T.A. Sir Anthony said “I quite agree with Hall.”

I find my old Quartermaster has created quite an amusing sensation in Naval Circles here. The story is briefly this. I had a very old (though not in years) Quartermaster, quite unfit to be at sea and that had only one year more to serve. Whilst at Alexandria, one Middle watch it came on to blow. I rang for the Quartermaster, and asked him why he had not called me. He appeared dazed and at last told me it had been blowing only 20 minutes and gave me a most vague idea as to its direction.

I had him at once relieved, and next morning sent for the Doctor, and said he must be invalided. So that day he was invalided, and sent to Landrail. On signing his conduct sheet I put under the column of Abilities - “Willing enough, but, blind in one eye, squints in the other, deaf in one ear, hard of hearing in the other, and unable to speak clearly, this man was sent from the Excellent as a CPO to do duty as a Quartermaster.”

It appears that Capt. Cochrane of Tamar which ship brought him to Malta, told the story at a Club, and it was soon told every where -but the sequel was more amusing still. The Landrail sent a lunatic from Hospital belonging to Phaeton in my Q.M’s charge and they both fell in on the Quarter Deck of the Tamar, and were reported to the Doctor who asked if the lunatic was quiet. The Sick Bay man said “Yes. Oh then send him down with the other lunatics.” So up came the S.B. man and selecting my old Q.M. as the lunatic sent him below, the real fellow going off free.

After 24 hrs my old Q.M. gathered his senses together and asked to see the Captain, that he might be let out from the lunatics. Of course there was quite a sensation when they found the real lunatic had been wandering about amongst the people, but they soon secured him.

Yesterday, Sunday, I attended service at Presbyterian Church, and heard a very good sermon from Mr Wisely. Spent the day at Sherrards and Boyds; two of the nicest families here.

1890

DEPART MALTA

6 January - Monday

I left Malta last Thursday on the tail end of a heavy blow, and, consequently for the first 48 hours pitched into a very nasty head sea, making us all sea sick. On Saturday, the sea went down, and I commenced a passage trial, averaging 9 knots, and this forenoon, I went full speed, making 115 knots. But as the Chief Engineer Mr Mullinger is ill (kidneys) and two out of my three leading stokers knocked up by debility, I did not continue the trial more than a few hours.

I am to remain at Alexandria as Senior Officer, and if the Admiralty allow me to draw the extra command money it will be a great help to me with the many claims on my purse.

AT ALEXANDRIA

11 January - Saturday

Yesterday, was dear E.D’s birthday.

I start on Monday for Port Said, via Cairo, to meet Mr Attard, the Clerk of Works from Malta, and have a look at the Dutch House together. I had intended going round in the ship, but having Chief Engineer and 1st Lieut in list, besides 20 other men, with this Catarrh, I have decided to go round by train. A long journey. I am strongly of opinion that the Admiralty should hold on to their property at Port Paid, as I am certain that bye and bye a railway will be run to Port Said, and some of the Alexandria trade will be diverted to that place. Sir Ch Cookson, Consul here and the Consul at Port Said, think my views are right.

12 January - Sunday

Not feeling very well today, rather lonely. The effect of this epidemic of influenza was seen in church this forenoon, the singing being very poor, so many being hoarse.

13 January - Monday

I left Alexandria this morning at 9.15 and arrived at Cairo 12.45, driving to the Hotel d’Angleterre and there taking up my abode. I strolled through the Muirki and into the Bazaars and soon found myself chattering with some Jews. One intelligent looking fellow, quite young, in his telling me he was a Jew and my saying how proud he should be of it, said; “I know it, but, why should I be now?”

We had a long and interesting talk together and it ended up on his telling me that he could read the Hebrew Scriptures but did not understand them, that he would read an English bible, if I gave him one. So, I trotted back and soon got him one, writing his name in it.

I then called on Sir Evelyn Baring and we had a long chat together. More especially with regard to the Dutch House at Port Said, and the value of it in war time and also its prospective value bye and bye, when the Railway goes there. I also urged on him the desirability of the Suakin ship remaining at Suez during the hot weather. On his saying he would get me a ticket for Khedive’s Ball, I thanked him and said; “I’d sooner go to bed.” He laughed. His upper part of face, reminds one strongly of the pictures seen of Bismarck.

14 January - Tuesday

Left this morning at 9 am. Arrived at Ismailia 2 pm where I took the Port Boat. Passing the Euphrates in the Canal, I recognized Yonge, the 1st Lieut, and we exchanged greetings. Rollman, Capt-Lieut of Irene was my companion from Cairo, a very interesting companion.

I went to Hotel Continental, having seen Mr Attard, Clerk of Works (Malta), and dined, went on board Landrail and had a yarn with Crofton.


15 January - Wednesday

Most of the day busy with Mr Attard at Dutch House. Paid visits to Burrell the Consul and the Royles and dined with Crofton. The Sailor’s Rest and Welcome doing well. Mr Attard today told me, that a lady, Mrs Watson, on his going away, desired him to remember her to me. My old friend E. G. (Elnith) Curzon, whom I wanted to marry. Lord Teynham’s sister.

16 January - Thursday

I left Port Said this morning, and after a tedious journey, arrived at Cairo 6 pm. On arriving at Hotel found a lot of letters. Bertie just from The Elms, I do not think Lady Hall has much kindly thoughts in little things.

I was in Cooks office making arrangements about some trips, and was talking of John Cook being, I understand, a great Total Abstainer, when he walked in. I introduced myself, he knew father very well, and, we had a chat together, ending by his asking me to go on a trip with some Swedish Officers on Monday at Sakhara, which I accepted. Tomorrow - D.V. - I go with the Blomfields and Miss Ker to the Pyramids.

17 January - Friday

I have been to the top and in the bowels of the great Pyramid and inspected the Sphinx and Tombs around. I found the ascent of the pyramid took a longer time than I anticipated. There is no use my writing a long description, suffice it to say that it exceeded my anticipations, in its magnitude, and the skill that planned and built it. It is certainly worthy of being called one of the seven wonders of the world.

I lunched at the Mena Hotel. Everything there is done in first rate style. Mrs Locke King, I understand, supervising everything in order to amuse herself. I should hardly think it can pay. A four-in-hand goes out daily, 10/6 double fare.

I met Mr John Cook in his office yesterday evening, and on getting into conversation with him, and introducing myself (he knew my father well, being a TA), he asked me to come on Monday and join a party of Swedish Officers he is taking out to Sakhara and also asked me to dinner tomorrow night at Shepherds.

18 January - Saturday

Received a telegram this morning from ship, saying “Dingy upset last night - Walkey, AB, missing, am writing.” It blew very hard yesterday, and, I am afraid there must have been a sea on at Alexandria. Dingy sent in for liberty men instead of Gig. It is very sad, our first death. I shall return as soon as the body is found.

This forenoon walked to the Citadel, and saw Mahomet Ali’s Mosque, built of Alabaster. It is certainly very striking, especially inside. The view from Citadel is very good.

Paid a visit to the Museum at Ghizeh. Full of interesting things but, I felt much was lost to me through there being no catalogue to explain things.

Old Bertie writes me he finds the cooking very inferior at Stanford Road. I quite agree with him, but what is to be done?

19 January - Sunday

Attended service at All Saints Church, heard the Bishop of Jerusalem (Blyth) preach. Disappointed at the matter of it, something lacking. Everyone must have gone away, well pleased with themselves.

Had 5 o’c tea at Miss Ker’s cousins, meeting Miss Ker there. Attended service at the American mission (heard a very good sermon) Made Mr and Mrs Gowan’s acquaintance - a very worthy Christian couple, also Miss Arthurs.

20 January - Monday

This morning at 10 am I found myself on board the steamer at Ras el Nil Bridge, meeting Mr and Mrs Cook and the Misses Cook, and a large party of Swedish Officers and military men, and ladies including Countess Lindberg, Swedish Consul General’s wife, and Capt. Von Horn of Sveja.

We left almost at once and steamed up the Nile, and most interesting and novel it was to me. So utterly unlike anything I had seen before, the Dahabeeyahs looking so picturesque with their fine lateen sails, some of the main yards being 140 ft long, - longer than the boat.

After steaming 15 miles up the river. We landed and mounted on donkeys, and rode out to Sakhara, visiting the Itep pyramid and Ti’s tomb and Oona’s Tomb. These tombs being most interesting the rooms covered with sculptures, some coloured, but there is no use entering into a long description. It simply struck me as something marvellously interesting and taking me back 4000 years.

You saw the daily lives and occupations of the Egyptians of Moses’s time. Mr Cooke did the whole thing very well and in the evening we dined with Mrs Cook and the two girls at Shepherds. Very nice people I found them. I thoroughly enjoyed my day and had a most interesting chat with Mr Nelson, one of Stanley’s party.

21 January - Tuesday

Met my friend the Jew, Isaac Ben-Tacar of the Turkish Bazaar, had a chat with him. He told me he intended to send me a present, I begged him not to. Returned to my ship at 8 pm having been away eight days.

22 January - Wednesday

Enquired into poor Walkey’s death.

26 January - Sunday

It has been blowing very hard from the Westward and the North West since yesterday, with much rain. Paid a few calls on Friday, with Mrs Blomfield.

28 January - Tuesday

H. Walkey’s body was picked up this morning by a boatman, and we buried him this afternoon, a large number of men attending. A long weary walk, through very dirty streets, and thick mud outside the gate (Rosetta). Quite did up our men. I suppose they walked 8 miles over slippery ground. Mr Lethbridge, Chaplain of the Forces, performed the service and thus we consigned the poor casket of Walkey to the Earth. I trust that his spirit is now dwelling in the presence of the Lord Jesus.

10 pm. Pulled ashore in my galley and walked up to Sailors’ Home and held an informal meeting of the Merchant Seamen there. About 15 came in and four of my boat’s crews. The Lord gave me wisdom to say a few words to them - no one being able to play Harmonium, I had to do it, and found the pedals very stiff. Feel tired after the long tramp today.

1 February - Saturday

Last night, I had Mon. Gerard (French Consul), Sir Ch. Cookson (English Consul) and Admiral Blomfield with two of my own Officers to dinner, and lighted up the cabin with the Electric Light. Everything went off very well. Dinner most excellent, and they all thanked me for a very pleasant evening. It was pleasant having them to dinner, but I am glad it is over.

I find it difficult to know the exact line to take, going out to dinners, but I am sure looking for guidance in all sincerity and earnestness, one will be led in the right way, but, for myself, I am sure the less I go out, the better for me. It unsettles me and I’ve determined to avoid it, as much as I can, for seeking first the Kingdom of Heaven, it is not helpful mixing much with those engrossed with the pleasure of this life - and, I’ve too much at stake to lightly injure my spiritual life.

I see that if one remains in high official positions a certain amount of Entertaining must be done and one must go out at times, as I very nearly caused offence not going to the French Ball. What am I to do? I can only just tell Jesus everything, knowing he will guide me.

2 February - Sunday

Had service in my cabin this morning, and spoke a few words in that verse. “Ask and it shall be given you ye men most attentive, and I pray the word may have gone home to someone. Last night, I dined at Admiral Blomfield’s, a large party after which, music and recitations, all very good.

I managed to snatch a few minutes conversation with the Bishop of Jerusalem (Blyth), regarding Palestine, and he told me, that there was no doubt, of late years, more rain had descended on Palestine and that numbers of the Jews were returning there. He said the Rothschilds had wished to buy it up, acre by acre, but the Turks had refused saying, “It was God’s land, and they were taking care of it.” Of course an answer given for diplomatic reasons, but, still a remarkable one.

I took Miss Ker into dinner and had a few minutes of most deep spiritual talk. She told me her mother’s father had turned RC from being a clergyman, and that her mother had since become one; and that last summer a Dominican priest had tried to pervert her.

5 February - Wednesday

Yesterday the ship was crowded with ladies, ostensibly to see a sailing race between our boats and Mahroussa and Port Boats, but it fell a flat calm. So a pulling race was improvised for the occasion. I had Mrs Blomfield, Miss Ker, Mrs Middlemass and others off.

Went today for a donkey ride along the banks of canal and then to Club to see telegrams, and on board to my solitary dinner and lonely evening.

9 February - Sunday

Went with Mrs Blomfield to the German Hospital and made the acquaintance of the sisters and spoke to some of the seamen. Attended the meeting at Sailor’s Rest. Mr Keen gave a very good address and I spoke a few words.

Yesterday, played tennis with Admiral Blomfield and then called on the Joghels [?].

10 February - Monday

To tea at Mrs Blomfield’s and met a good number of people there, collected to hear Signor Furlani play on the piano, which he did very well, and the daughter of the Swedish Judge sang very well.

13 February - Thursday

The Admiral and I went for a long walk out to the fine gardens of Sir John Antoniadis. Met him out there.

After dinner to the Soldiers and Sailors’ Institute, where our men under Mr Mullinger’s guidance gave a very successful entertainment. Everything going off very well.

14 February - Friday

To the German Hospital and had a yarn with the men there.

16 February - Sunday

Yesterday a donkey ride to Mex with the Blomfields, Miss Ker, Inglefield and the governess, Miss Black, and we had great fun. Miss Ker not being very strong, we had to go a trifle slow, she is a very nice girl.

18 February - Tuesday

Yesterday, I rode out on a donkey, to Mex, Miss Ker also, and saw un pauvre Italian. Busy writing letters - soliciting money for the Sailor’s Rest at Port Said.

Last Sunday, Mr Barron, a converted Jew, spoke at the Institute, and one was much edified and much instructed by what he said. He and Dr Dickson lunched with me on Saturday last.

20 February - Thursday

Attended the reception (afternoon) of the Suffolk Regiment and dined with the Blomfields, afterwards escorting Mrs B and Miss Ker to Signor Furlani’s concert. He certainly plays very well indeed, especially staccato pieces.

21 February - Friday

Paid a visit to the Russian officers, to thank them for giving me a passage off to my ship last night in their Steam Boat; then to Mahroussa, to borrow the Khedive’s band for Mrs Blomfield’s party on Tuesday; then to the station to meet the Misses Hunters from Cairo, saw them on to the S.S. Pera for Malta, and then to Mex on a donkey, accompanied by Inglefield, Miss Ker, Miss Black and the Blomfields. My galley brought Oliver and the tea things, so we had 5 o’c tea there. Dined as Hon. Member in the W.R.

24 February - Monday

Yesterday, I had a busy and pleasant day. My own service on board in the forenoon. A visit to Perkins St at Ras-el-Tin Hospital, a nice talk on 23rd Psalm. Then on to the German Hospital and a chat with the English sailors in the accident ward; then to 5 o’c tea with the Lethbridges, (Chaplain to Forces) and another light refreshment at 7 o’c at Institute, after the 6 pm service at church. Then service again at Institute, and Holy Communion at 8.30 pm at Institute, and on board by 9.30 pm.

Drilled this morning, men did very well knowing their stations. Dined quietly with the Blomfields.

25 February - Tuesday

Went to Mrs Blomfield’s At Home, then at 7 pm escorted Mrs B, Miss Ker out to Ramleh, as we were all dining with Mrs Peel. A party of 14. I took in Mrs Peel and sat next to Miss Ker. Did not get on board until after midnight.

DEPART ALEXANDRIA

26 February - Wednesday

Sailed this morning for Port Said, knocking about a good deal.

27 February - Thursday

Firing all day and under sail this evening, tacking and wearing.

ARRIVE PORT SAID

2 March - Sunday

Arrived here on Friday, a hot sirocco blowing. Very trying and found here the Albacore and Cockchafer. Feeling very seedy. Eyes and nose much inflamed.

Yesterday the Orion and Espoir came through Canal. Saw Ian Bruce and Prothero, the latter and Scullard dined with me, also Inglefield. Been very busy arranging matters at the Sailor’s Rest and hope done everything satisfactorily. This morning marched the men to church found it full, so came back, no service. Orion sailed this morning.

10 pm. A very pleasant meeting at The Rest, between 30 and 40 men present. I am leaving this place having been much blessed in settling matters regarding The Rest.

DEPART PORT SAID

3 March - Monday

Left Port Said this morning and after firing with large and small guns, made sail to a nice breeze from the Northward, stopping the Engines.

ARRIVE ALEXANDRIA

4 March - Tuesday

Arrived at Alexandria.

6 March - Thursday

Laid up with a bad cold.

8 March - Saturday

Paid a lot of visits to Ramleh, and asked the three little Miss Peels to tea on Monday.

Last night I took the Bible Class at the Soldiers’ Institute.

Had a letter from my step-mother which much rejoiced me, telling me of her spiritual difficulties and desires. Wrote her a long one back, which I pray may help her.

10 March - Monday

Last night I spoke at the Institute. Determined not to take another meeting, I cannot speak against time, it does me harm.

This afternoon, I had the three little Peel girls and little Blomfield off to tea, taking them for a sail on board Mahsonoah, the Khedives yacht. The Band played Lancers for us.

I have received £15 as yet for the Sailors’ Rest at Port Said.

12 March - Wednesday

Yesterday was my dear father’s birthday. Four years ago I sent him a telegram congratulating him on his having received a G.S.P, which dear man he only held three months, and gave the first quarter away to the fund for Mr Bradford’s Chapel.

Heard from Bertie today and hope he will get the Handy, Experimental tender to the Excellent.

Ordered to refund the 18/- a day I have been drawing.

15 March - Saturday

Dear Bertie’s birthday, 28 this day.

Last night, I look the Bible Class at Institute, and we talked over the Parable of the Sower.

Much searching of the heart on my return to the ship and earnest prayer to God for guidance, and an undivided heart to serve Him and Him alone.

16 March - Sunday

Ker and his sister came off to the service, and I thank God I had written, as it happened, a very appropriate little sermon; and I heard and believe it stirred up one heart at least.

Ker stayed to lunch and we had some nice chats together and then we went up to Ras-el-Tin Hospital, and had a chat with Corporal Clarke, who talked quite sanely, but complained very much of his head and [no one?] knows what is the matter with him. I was sorry to see his eyes had such a startled appearance.

I on board, and then to the German Hospital and saw some of my friends (old ones) and had a long yarn with two new ones; Ch. Engineer and Mate of a steamer. The former told me though many years at sea, he had never come across a Christian officer; (perhaps some were, but Nicodemus, like I was for years). I pray for humility, less self consciousness, and a deeper conviction of my utter helplessness and unworthiness and simpleness, and also of Christ’s love to me.

Evening service at the Church and back to tea on board


18 March - Tuesday

Yesterday I paid Mrs Coles a visit and sitting in the verandah, got a cold.

This afternoon at 3 pm a party of about 20 ladies and men started on donkeys for Mex, which place we reached at 4.30 and had tea in the Blomfield’s House, which was provided by myself, Inglefield and Hogg. We got back at 6.30 pm. Everyone having enjoyed themselves very much. I dined with the Blomfields quietly, and on board early having my cold on me.

19 March - Wednesday

Letters from E.D. and Lel, suggesting that by and bye they should study more, with the object by and bye of earning their own livelihood. Had a long and interesting visit from Mr Rudolph, Missionary, and received £20 by the mail from Sam Smith MP for Sailor’s Rest, Port Said.

20 March - Thursday

Dined last night with Dr Gore at the Khedivial Club meeting Sir William Buller, Mr Caillard, Dr Mackay and others. Got very tired and slipped away at 11.30 pm.

This morning heard from the Admiral that Carysfort was going to relieve me here.

I also had a long letter from Francie who is anxious to have one of the girls permanently with her to teach Mickey in the morning, and the other, E.D. I presume, to study music. Asking me to decide.

I am greatly perplexed and know not what to do. On the one hand, meeting Francie’s wishes, for she and Ted have been so kind, and also of course Lel having practically no expenses, could help E.D. much. Also the two girls being so buried in lodgings. On the other hand, they are so very happy, it forms a home for all of us, and for Buz, Bertie and self. Also it separates the girls who are so attached to each other and Lel I am afraid will find it a great spiritual hindrance living in Eaton Place.

I am severely perplexed and cast-down.

23 March - Sunday

Had a very pleasant morning service. Then after lunch to Hospitals, much cheered and strengthened by seeing and talking to the patients. Paid a visit to the two Bible Women, Miss Higgins and Miss Johnson. Found an interesting Bible Class going on in Italian, and several present who had come in from curiosity under conviction It was a novelty to hear Moody and Sankey’s Hymns sung in Italian. Attended service at Presbyterian Church. Mr Kean preached well, but delivery much too slow. Then on to Institute and after having some refreshment, to the service to hear Mr Judd speak. He spoke straight to the point and then on board.

Had a severe mental struggle this morning. The struggle is hard.

27 March - Thursday

Yesterday, Fearless came in, remaining until 5 pm. Brenton and I had the pleasure of meeting and talking over the Port Said Sailors’ Rest. We decided on building, if we can raise the money. Brenton tells me Burnell the Flag Captain is very rude to Commanders. Admiral wrote me Scout & Surpise are coming in on the 6th approx, to meet the Prince.

Did not go to the Suffolk Ball, as I did not feel called upon to go.

Heard from Bertie, who tells me he does not agree with Francie’s plan of separating the girls.

28 March - Friday

Yesterday afternoon, I had Miss Higgins and Miss Johnson off to tea, two Bible women working in the Greek Attarin. They enjoyed it very much. In the evening, attended the concert given at the Institute by our men, it dragged rather.

On coming off, found E.D’s letter saying she thought of going to Brussels for music, if the home is to be broken up. I have left it to them, though I shall be very sorry at the two girls being separated. Heard from Bertie this afternoon, he is going out in June to Raleigh, flagship on the Cape Station.

It is long since I have felt so low and depressed, such a wanderer, and no home.


30 March - Sunday

A great sense of loneliness and weariness of the soul, sometimes over me at times. I’ve had so much sorrow of the heart during the last fifteen years. I only get relief by taking it to Jesus, and casting my burden on him. I am afraid it is settled our little home is to be broken up.

This forenoon, the Blomfields, Miss Ker and Miss Black, came off to church.

Last night I dined at the Blomfields, to meet the General Sir William Butler, we sat at the table until nearly 11 o’c.

I took in Miss Ker and we had a very nice conversation at dinner. She is only 23.

31 March - Monday

My two friends left for Cairo this afternoon at 4.15. It leaves a blank here. She is certainly the nicest girl I have met for a long time, as true as steel, and very straight. I prize the privilege of being numbered amongst her friends and her brother also is a high principled fellow.

2 April - Wednesday

Mails from England. Bertie now thinks it a good thing, Lel going to Francie and E.D. abroad as they both think it not a bad idea for a year. I trust it is for the best, but one regrets breaking up one’s home very much.

Last Saturday, the M.M. Mail steamer came in from Port Said, with Miss Hogg on board (I followed the steamer in, as I had been out firing the night before with Ker as my guest). I had to go on board and explain to Miss Hogg, that her brother had gone to Port Said to meet her, a long 20 hr journey and he could not get back until that evening. It was great disappointment not seeing each other after two year’s separation.

Sunday next, I expect Scout, and Surprise in.

Dine tonight at Blomfields to meet Sir Colin Scott Moncrieff, to whom I was introduced this morning. The ship under Inglefield’s superintendence is beginning to look very smart.

Heard from Taylor today, that C.H. is going to be closed until the Autumn, the Reading Room being kept open.

4 April - Good Friday

Yesterday, a party of us went out in Tug to look at the new Dredger; Morice Pasha, Admiral Blomfield, Artin Pasha, Sir Colin Moncrieff and self.

I had some very interesting conversations with Sir Colin, who really has been the saviour of Egypt. He told me that Lord Dufferin told him, when he first came to Egypt, that we did not intend to clear out, though at the same time he was saying just the opposite. More shame to Lord D. If we had told the truth then, we should have saved ourselves much trouble. W. E. Forster told Sir Colin, that the worst of Lord Randolph Churchill was that he told a lie, and did not mind being found out.

Heard from Malta, that Carysfort relieves me here about the 15th or 16th and I move on to Port Said.

6 April - Sunday

HMS Scout came in, whilst I was ashore taking Holy Communion with some of my men. Took Battenberg ashore to call on Officials, and dined with him, as he had counted a good deal on my doing so.

7 April - Monday

Surprise came in, took Battenberg and Tillard to call on the Governor, and at 4 pm we all went up to Cairo and put up at the Continental. The best I think in Cairo.

8 April - Tuesday

Saw Miss Ker for an half an hour.

Called on Sir Evelyn Baring, presented to the Prince Edward. Had a chat with him and then a long talk with Sir Evelyn on the ship being stationed at Suez instead at Suakin during the hot months. On to Generals Dormer and Grenfell on the same subject, and got them all to agree and they have all promised to take the initiative, so it ought to be all right.

Had a long interview with the Kers, they had tea and dinner with me at the Hotel Royal.

9 April - Wednesday

Interviewed my Jew friend in the Bazaar and had a look round the shops. To lunch at the Hotel and tea with the Kers. I think them both fine characters and like them both very much and am [8 semaphore signs which appear to read very fond of Olga].

Dined with the Dormers and home tired to bed.

10 April - Thursday

Left Cairo this morning and on board by 1.30 pm and to Athletic sports this afternoon of which I am patron and have promised £2.2, which I can ill afford.

13 April - Sunday

Battenberg lunched with me in afternoon and 5 o’c tea with the Peels. Attending evening service at Mr Kean’s, drove down with Sisters Burke and Keer and on board.

14 April - Monday

Tillard of Surprise very seedy from fever and pleurisy.

Paid him a visit and found him weak.

To Ramleh with Battenberg, paying a visit to Morice Pasha. In the evening Battenberg and Inglefield dined with me.

15 April - Tuesday

Tillard feeling still very seedy, but fever has left him. Prince Edward came down at 1.30 pm from Cairo, I met him at the Arsenal and saw him into the boat. The Khedive’s Barge, taking him off. Afterwards lunched on board Scout meeting him there. He is looking, to my mind very seedy, and Evelyn Baring who was down told me that yesterday he got quite knocked up.

Is evidently delicate and if he was not a Royal Prince, would be called stupid. He wears enormous large dog collars and has a very long neck.

The ships went out at 5 pm. Scout flying the Royal Standard, no salutes. We had a lot of ladies on board to tea.

Sir Evelyn Baring told me, he had telegraphed to Foreign Office, that a ship was not required at Suakin during the hot months and was very nice about it. It is a great boon if we are not sent down, I shall be most thankful.

DEPART ALEXANDRIA

18 April - Friday

The Carysfort arrived yesterday and I started this morning at 5 am for Port Said, making sail at 6 am. Dined last night with Captain Pringle.

Had a long and interesting letter from my friend Olga.

ARRIVE PORT SAID

22 April - Tuesday

Had a pleasant passage round to Port Said, sailing most of the way and found Albacore in besides three Spaniards, the French Seignelay and Russian Vladimir Monomakh.

On Sunday Evening, attended the evening meeting at the Sailor’s Rest and gave a short address. A great number of merchantmen present.

Heard from the Admiral, a very nice letter. He does not intend to send me to the Red Sea yet-a-while, I am glad to say.

Yesterday I left and employed the day carrying out steam trials, a tiring business. Today, I weighed under sail this morning and carried out the big gun firing this forenoon and intend, D.V., to go into Port Said this evening.

23 April - Wednesday

Received mails from England, only 4¾ days from London. Colonel Trotter late Military Attaché at Constantinople and recently appointed Consul General at Beyrout brought a letter from Admiral asking me to take him to Beyrout, if I could.

DEPART PORT SAID

24 April - Thursday

Started this morning with Colonel Trotter on board for Beyrout.

On Wednesday last much troubled at hearing from Miss Ker, of her brother St John being in Hospital with small pox.

It appears that he had been ill from Thursday until Sunday, before the disease was diagnosed, and Miss Ker thought she was going to get it too, as she had been nursing him and felt very unwell.

I think her youngest cousin treated her shamefully, poor girl, now she is living alone in the lodgings for fear of giving infection to her friends and relatives.

Heard from Bertie and E.D. of its being practically settled that E.D. was going to the Revd I. Jenkin, 74 Rue de Stassart, Brussels.

Bertie left in the Union Steamer Moor for the Cape on Thursday 17th inst, in order to join the Raleigh.

AT BEYROUT

26 April - Saturday

Steaming slowly back to Port Said, having disembarked Colonel Trotter this forenoon. I lunched with him on shore and met the Vice Consul Eyres, who knows Bertie very well. Afterwards I went out to the American Mission and saw Drs Post and Bliss with their wives. Saw a lawn tennis match between two English and two Americans, the latter beat a very close match, one of the English had a leg bandaged up.

Up at 7 pm.

RETURN PORT SAID

28 April - Monday

Arrived at Port Said this morning.

29 April - Tuesday

Yesterday afternoon Mr Mullinger, Ch Engineer, asked me leave and took a small Hand Bag away with him, saying he was dining out. Not turning up this morning, the 1st Lieut reported his absence. I had the town searched and the Colliers at 4 pm, but this evening Col Harington found out he had left at 2 pm in the Steamer Marian bound to Constantinople, so I wired to the Admiral.

Saturday. Wired last night to S.N.O. Constantinople regarding Mullinger. Received a telegram from Malta this morning saying Mullinger had been arrested this morning so am afraid I shall have to go to Malta to try him by CM.

Much surprised at finding from Harington on Wednesday, that Mullinger had been in a gambling Saloon up to 6 am with young de Glanville, belonging to the B & F Bible Society. Last night de Glanville came off and begged me not to say anything to Mr Wheatley about it. A most painful interview. I am undecided.

It appears Mullinger has been swindling people for some time past, not sparing even the nursing sisters at Alexandria. A most plausible scoundrel.

Dined last night with the Royles, long. Did not get away until 11.30 pm very tired.

7 May - Wednesday

Am busy looking after the Dutch House. I shall not be sorry to have a cruise by and bye and see some other places.

9 May - Friday

Oliver, after laying ill in my cabin a couple of days, went to Lady Strangford’s Hospital last Wednesday, with a bad attack of intermittent fever.

Yesterday we had our Athelete Sports, which went off very well. I gave £2 toward them.

Have made the acquaintance of a Mr Lazareth a Jew, at the Hospital. He was landed from the P&O, dangerously ill from Haemorrhage. Have had several very interesting chats with him.

Been seedy today, my eyes trouble me very much. I get low at times. Such a struggle to keep one’s head above water financially.

Had a very pleasant Bible Reading at the Admiralty house last night.

Suffering from toothache, so must go to Cairo and have it stopped on my way back from Suez, to which place I am going on Monday to examine a steam launch for Government.

Have such nice letters from Olga Ker.

16 May - Friday

Kantara on Canal. A Red Letter Day to me and the beginning of other hopes and responsibilities and I pray God much happiness.

This morning on my way to the Station, I called at Moharen Bey Duprey and found Olga Ker (O.K) up. Gave her my B-[?] and going away told her what I intended doing. Last saw her bright face and salutation from the balcony of the house.

In train after leaving Cairo engaged in very earnest prayer to the blessed Lord Jesus for guidance, and for help and strength for myself and dear one, and do pray I may leave myself in His loving Hands.


17 May - Saturday

Scene yesterday morning is still imprinted on my mind, that sweet loving figure on the balcony, waving a kiss. I fancied her eyes were full of love,

What a long time I have been trying to conceal from myself how very fond of her I was, and yet not concealing it so much as trying to put it away, but ever fruitlessly, for fear she would not have me, and also that my views might not suit her. Then seeing my way clear to coming forward, having the privilege of helping my loving sisters.

She is as true as steel, a loving heart, clever, but so humble and self deprecating to herself, so honest. I admired her so much.

When talking of spiritual matters she was so straightforward about it all. I pray she may be blessed in her seeking and helped by our dear Lord.

For months I have thought of her. At Alexandria how I loved, yet dreaded meeting her. I thought it could never be. She never thought what my apparent indifference and avoidance of her at times cost me in mental struggles.

From the first moment I saw her, I liked her. How well I remember Crofton telling me I should lose my heart to her, she was so fascinating and I laughed and said I was case hardened.

On Monday last I went to Suez in the Steam launch, the Indian Government is trying to sell the Admiralty. Wired my approval.

On Tuesday went to Cairo and at the Hospital found St John Ker going on well. Spent the evening with Mrs Ker and Olga Ker.

Wednesday paid Waller Bey, my dentist, a visit and that afternoon Mrs Ker, Olga Ker and I drove out to the Mena Hotel and dined there, first having a look at the Sphinx.

Next morning at 5 am we mounted donkeys and saw the sun throwing its rising rays on the face of Sphinx. I took Olga Ker into the Centre of the Pyramid, and we spent the rest of the day in the Hotel, driving back at 6 pm, and having a scratch meal at their rooms, the Maison Du Bray Bey.

Next morning, i.e. yesterday morning, called on my way to the station and at 7 am had two cups of tea from Olga Ker, feeling very heavy at heart.

Said goodbye to her, kissing her dear hand, telling her, half afraid of doing so, that I intended trying to win her and going away, I looked up and saw her sweet face so bright. Bless her, and my earnest prayer is that our Lord will see fit to bless us, and that we may journey for ever and ever, hand in hand; without his blessing far better we should never see each other again. He knows what is best for each of us, and will do right. I leave it in his Hands now.

18 May - Sunday

No answer from Miss Ker. Went to meeting at Rest cast down, but resigned. A large number there.

20 May - Tuesday

Yesterday, no letter, much cast down. Sent a telegram, thinking perhaps Olga thought, I should ask her personally, if she was worth asking for her. An answer came saying “Mama says not come. Olga.” I liked seeing her name at the end.

This afternoon, I received one of the most sweet maidenly and loving letters a man has ever received from a girl. Please God I will take precious care of my beloved Olga. What a long time I have loved her and how fought against it. I felt at times like plucking an eye [five lines of text crossed out] but her letter has given me much comfort, she is so true, so straight. I esteem and I love her with all my heart and believe by God’s blessing we shall comfort each other and take our stand boldly together in the Lord’s side.

21 May - Wednesday

Many Foreign men of war in, therefore I have determined to run up and see my Olga on Friday and have a talk with her and Mrs Ker.

23 May - Friday

Left Port Said this morning and arrived at Cairo 5.30. Put up at Hotel Royal and drove to see Olga having prepared her for my calling, and very soon my beloved Olga was in my arms dressed in white with an orange sash and a long talk we had together. First asking God’s blessing on us both, how lovely to go over old times. Olga is looking so sweet and pretty and spoke so lovingly of my dear sisters living with us. It seemed like a dream to me, as it did to Olga for we really have esteemed and loved each other for a long time. I pray the Lord that He will guide us and direct us in all things and that we may lean on Him, not on each other.

25 May - Sunday

My beloved Olga, and I went to Church together, and heard a very nice sermon from Dean Butcher on Spiritual Power being given us by the Holy Spirit. Olga and I gave our first thank offering to our blessed Lord. Bless the Lord Oh my Soul, and all that is within one, bless His Holy name, forget not all His benefits.

After service, I took Olga into the vestry and told Dean Butcher Olga was my affianced bride. He was quite taken aback, evidently much pleased but so affected he could not speak, but we all knelt down and he offered up a beautiful little prayer for us both and I added a few words, dear Olga fervently closing with Amen. “Oh! Lord bless and guide us both and help us to consecrate our lives to thy service.”

27 May - Tuesday

On Sunday afternoon, Olga and I went to Dean Butcher’s and had tea there, then viewing his garden until church time. After evening service, we spent the evening together quietly. Sir Colin Moncrieff and Baker Pasha congratulated us most heartily . Yesterday morning, I drove early to Olga’s, had a long chat with her and at 7.30 am had to part with my precious girl, one of the sweetest in Christendom. How she fell in love with me is a marvel to me.

30 May - Friday

I could not have believed a short time ago, that I could have been wrapped up in any one as I am in my Olga. I seem to have commenced a new life. Her letters charm me more and more and I trust the dear girl and I may have many happy years before us.

Had a very pleasant Bible Reading at the Seaman’s Rest last night. Locke suffering much from toothache, told me, it was due to his [5 and 8 letters of semaphore code]. I can hardly believe this.

Heard last night from that sweet girl.

1 June - Sunday

Had a long talk with Inglefield last night regarding the expenses of married life. He says £500 a year, and a house is the least a man can do on. I felt much cast-down, but I laid it all before the Lord, as Hezekiah did.

All is well. Wrote a long letter to my precious Olga.

Had a nice service on board. I commenced my sermon with Joshua 1.9 and ended it with Psalm 42.11. Both verses gave me much comfort and consolation.

11 June - Wednesday

Hotel Beau Séjour. I must now go back to the 3rd since, on the morning of which day the Fleet turned up and anchored a long way out; 5½ miles from where I was lying in the Ismail Basin. I got out at 8 am just in time for breakfast with the Admiral and then immediately afterwards sat on two C.Ms, and did not get back until 3 pm to my ship.

The fleet consisted of Victoria, Trafalgar, Dreadnought, Agamemnon, Temeraire, Edinburgh, Phaeton and Carysfort.

At 4 pm Sir Anthony Hoskins, and Lord Walter Kerr came in, and after shewing them over the Admiralty House, I gave them tea on board and told the Admiral that, having proposed to Olga Ker in past 48 hours, I wanted leave to go round to Alexandria. He assented at once.

The Admiral was very pleased at what I had done at the Admiralty House.

On Friday the 6th, I had two Courts martial on board. Mr Mullinger, Ch Engineer, I tried. He was dismissed the service, and Smith AB got 5 years penal servitude, a much too heavy a sentence.

I told the Admiral so.

7 June - Saturday

The Fleet sailed, I am glad to say.

8 June - Sunday

Had a very nice service on board, and in the evening attended meeting at Seamen’s Rest

9 June - Monday

Took Port Boat and proceeded to Ismailia, Alexandria and Ramleh, arriving at the Hotel Beau Séjour at 9 pm. Found only my beloved Olga there, Mrs Ker being still detained in Cairo, so after a loving talk with the dear girl whose eyes were sparkling with love, I took the next train back to Alexandria and slept at the Institute.

Next morning Olga came into breakfast at Institute, and after doing some shopping, we returned to Hotel Beau Séjour. St John having turned up that morning, Mrs Ker came in the afternoon and we spent the rest of the day at Hotel. Needless to say Olga and I were nearly all the time together.

18 June - Wednesday

Port Said. I must go back a week. On Wednesday the 11th, Olga and I went into town and did shopping and returned to lunch at Hotel and that afternoon the dear girl and I had a long talk together.

On Thursday the 19th, and Friday and Saturday we spent entirely in each other’s company, being photographed on Saturday and lunching at Sir Charles Cookson.

During this week Olga and [text crossed out] treasure He has given me, indeed the more I know of Olga, the more I see what a remarkably fine character she has and yet withal has personal attractiveness of no mean sort and she is so fond of me. I pray I may long be spared to make her happy and be a true help indeed to her.

On Sunday we went to hear Mr Mackie preach at the Presbyterian Church, and he gave us such a loving and beautiful Sermon, so eloquent and yet so true. Olga and I derived much comfort from it. We then took the Holy Communion together at the English Church, and spending the day quietly at the Institute, returned to the Hotel for the evening.

16 June - Monday. Saw Mrs Ker and Olga off. [Text crossed out] St John and I took the train at 11 pm and travelling all night reached Ismailia at 1 pm next day. Took the Post Boat and reached the ship at 6 pm tired out.

Lady Dormer and the girls came down from Cairo by the same boat to Port Said. Thinking much of my Olga. Fearless in port.

23 June - Monday

Saw St John off by the Port Boat this morning. His stay here has done him much good in every way, physically stronger, and much impressed by what my friend Brenton said to him. St John having a very critical mind finds it hard to submit himself to God, to humble himself and cry “I am a sinner”, but I feel sure that he will see it through by God’s blessing.

Brenton went home on Friday in a China Tea steamer. Very sorry to lose him from the active service.

Longing to hear from Olga.

27 June - Friday

Painting ship all this week. On Wednesday, I had the delight and pleasure of hearing from Olga, who was very sad going over to Brindisi, poor girl. I wish I had been by her dear side. They remained at Brindisi from Thursday until Sunday and then on to Venice where they stay a week.

Played tennis this afternoon and had a row in my skiff, feel all the better for it.

A loving letter from Lel.

29 June - Sunday

Yesterday Harington and I went for a pull in my skiff, Mrs Harington in the stern, no light weight to pull about this morning. I spoke a few words from the words “Lord I believe, help thou mine unbelief”, paid a visit to the Hospital, finished my letter to my precious Olga. Find it a great relief having some one to write fully to, and this evening, attended the meeting at the Seamen’s Rest. Many there.

4 July - Friday

Attended meeting at Seamen’s Rest last night, read 2nd Ch St John’s Gospel. Had the very great pleasure of hearing from my precious Olga this week.


8 July - Tuesday

Had a letter from my beloved Olga this forenoon.

Albacore arrived at Alexandria this morning.

Last Saturday Inglefield sought an interview with me, he had been nursing up supposed wrongs for some time. I am very glad that he had to raise himself off, though I had to speak to him very plainly, saying how surprised I was at his thinking such things of me. On Monday he came in and being a thorough gentleman apologised for what he had said and so it is all right again. However I see it does not do to discuss any orders I give to him, they must simply be obeyed.

12 July - Saturday

Received many letters last Wednesday by the Mail, especially form my beloved Olga and a long one form Sir Anthony Hoskins.

It is indeed a great treat hearing from my beloved one, such warm affectionate letters.

Sorry to see Harry Grogan has not passed into the Navy, will be a great blow to Harry and Ida.

Albacore came in Thursday morning and sailed this morning for Suez to relieve Dolphin. Yesterday they had a cricket match against town and had a tremendous beating.

I hope to leave for Malta on Tuesday morning via Alexandria.

14 July - Monday

French National Fête. I went to see my friend M. Rumeau and told him I must move on to Alexandria in the afternoon as soon as the Dolphin turned up, which she did at 1 pm and at 3 pm I was off having turned everything over to Neville.

Port Said very gaily decorated with bunting, the French giving a prize for the best ship and house. In Egypt they try to draw as much attention to the day as possible and make it a general holiday.

Last night we had a very pleasant meeting at the Rest.

AT ALEXANDRIA AND MALTA

24 July - Thursday

On Tuesday the 15th arrived at Alexandria, saw Bruce of the Orion who was full of his collision with the Temeraire. I dined with the Laurences at the Institute and on Wednesday the 16th started for Malta. Had a very nasty passage up, head wind and sea, made us all bilious.

I arrived at Malta on Monday the 21st and found the Admiral in, flag flying in Victoria. On Tuesday I coaled and had an interview with Sir Anthony, who told me of the very flattering remarks he had made on my work at Port Said on the Navy House, late Dutch House. On seeing them in Secretary’s cabin, I was much struck at the way he wrote to the Admiralty regarding my zeal.

Wednesday 23rd. I went out of harbour to the back of the Island to do my Prize firing, but found such a lump of a sea on and blowing so hard, I had to return. Ship in an awful mess.

I dined with Sir Anthony and after dinner we had a long yarn together on many things. He told me some interesting things regarding the Empress Frederick and we had a long yarn on naval matters.

This day, I lunched with Buller, and sent off a lot of letters, 4 to Olga, but, received none alas!. Wrote to cheer up the dear girl.

2 August - Saturday

Inglefield been in Hospital now a week, Hogg sick still, and Simmonds, Ch Engineer still in Hospital. The Admiral inspected the ship yesterday. The Awnings were spread and he said Man and Arm Boats. Men worked very well and quietly and the ‘Ral’ was pleased and said so. We did the usual things, General Quarters, fire etc. All went off well.

There were a few little things wanted looking to, such as shot required scraping but, as the Admiral said, “It was nothing” and he was pleased altogether, I could see, and would not do some things, taking my word that everything was correct. I am glad it is over.

The Polyphemus, Cruiser, Scout came in this week - Meryon, Prickett and Battenberg all friends of mine, especially Prickett who lunched with me this day and after lunch we had a nice spiritual talk together. Battenberg would not believe for a long time, I was engaged.

Fleet sail on Monday for Palermo and Gibraltar. Polyphemus to pay off.

10 August - Sunday

Fleet left last Monday for Gibraltar. On Friday Cruiser went out under sail, a pretty sight. Inglefield out of Hospital, Simmonds still in. Imogene came in day before yesterday and Duncombe came in to see me. He married Amy Fraser, cousin of Edward Grogan’s. She was one of dear Meta’s bridesmaids

15 August - Friday

Yesterday, I was 40 years of age, and looking back I can truly say, goodness and mercy hath followed me, all the days of my life. I thank God for giving me Olga Ker and pray we may be spared to one another for many years.

Had to punish Buckland AB for having shaved when refused permission. Much distressed at having to do so as I know him to be an out and out Xtian. I am afraid it will give cause to the enemies of the Lord to mock and laugh. I hinted to Lt Hogg, I should like him to intercede, but he’d not take the hint. I prayed much about it and believe I had no other course open. He has not had a scratch against him and my letter asking for him to pass as Ship’s Corporal had only just gone in.

23 August - Saturday

My beloved Olga is 24 years of age this day. Truly a loving girl, so straight and true and I am thankful to God for having given me her. Pray we may indeed help each other in our spiritual life and ask the Lord to guide us both that we may not get wrapped up in each other and thus forget Him. I pray we may both strive to live His Glory, seeking first his Kingdom and leaving the rest to him. She has been very much in my thoughts this day.

I left Malta last Monday and went round to the back of the island and did Prize Firing at a target, and located a rock some 200 yards from the shore upon which two steam launches have been wrecked.

AT GRIGENTI, SICILY

On Tuesday 19th I arrived at Grigenti (Agrigento) and received mails, but Niente from Olga.

That afternoon Captain Maclurcan and Dr Sharples, with myself went up to Grigenti by train and visited the fine ruins lying at the base of the Mount, and we walked back, a very dusty, rubbly road.

Grigenti, built on the slope of a hill 1000 feet high, is most picturesquely situated, and the old town of Agrigentum must have been very large and very strong. The ruins of the walls shewed them to have been very massive, and I was much interested in seeing the rock hewn tombs cut in the Rock that formed part of the walls. The railway to Grigenti from its sea port Empedocle has to wind about a good deal over picturesque ravines to make its way up to near the town. The port in which we lay is very snug, formed by large stone breakwaters.

Wednesday night, I left, not having heard from Olga, tho’ I am sure she has written.

Thursday - gave a small dinner party longing to hear some news of Olga.

26 August - Tuesday

Only 100 miles off Alexandria so I’ve just made sail as I do not intend getting in until tomorrow morning. I find it rather a labour instructing officers and men, setting sails properly. They are all, with few exceptions, very ignorant and it is not to be wondered at.

AT PORT SAID

1 September - Monday

Arrived at Alexandria on Wednesday and sailed again on Thursday having seen all my friends, dined at the Institute with Mr Lawrence and paid Mrs L a visit after dinner, she is out at Ramleh.

Had a very interesting talk with Lawrence. We both confided to one another, we saw other Christians had something we had not, and we must have a more spiritual walk. I intend by through His Grace having it.

Two long loving letters from my loved Olga, she gets dearer to me day by day. I feel I have won a girl of no ordinary sort.

Left Alexandria on the 28th and sailed round to Port Said, arriving on the 30th. Found Gannet in. Spent the day with Corfe and yesterday Sunday, had a little congregation off to church. Preached my first extensive sermon on board this ship, on 2 King V. Lunched with Mr Harington, paid Hospital a visit, returned to ship and found Oliver in high fever 104. Touch of the sun, packed him off to Hospital this morning at 5 am. Attended meeting at Rest last night, funds required, and sailed.

18 September - Thursday

Olga writes such loving true letters and fortunate am I in having such a true hearted girl for my future wife. I pray we may be great blessings to each other in every way, and I finish this journal with thoughts of her dear sweet self in my heart and mind, and her dear name on my lips, the loving Olga.

24 September - Wednesday

Cairo. Came up yesterday from Suez, and dined in the evening with Portal, meeting General Dormer and Col Kitchener. Found Portal full of information. This morning, had another yarn with him and then paid Sir Colin Moncrieff a visit. He told me in his emphatic way that Williams raved about St John Ker. Said, he and another young fellow were his right hand men. I was very glad to hear it.

Sir Colin told me he was going to Merv by invitation from the Russian Government, to see into their irrigation. A great compliment as I told Sir Colin.

I lunched with General Dormer and in the afternoon went down with Barnham to see the Barrage, the Nile being in full flood. A magnificent structure.

Nile looked so full and rich with alluvial matter.

Dined with Dr Gore, meeting General Dormer.


[The disagreement that George King-Hall had with Captain, afterwards General, Hacket-Pain, which is mentioned in the following entries, concerned his treatment of the Hadendowas who were driven out of Suakin, forbidden to draw water from the wells and exposed to the mercies of the Dervishes at Tokar. GKH visited starving natives and found them in a terrible condition. The missionaries of the C M S were helping them.]

ARRIVE SUAKIN, SUDAN

4 October - Saturday

Up to Monday morning had calms, then strong easterly winds and last night at 5 pm whilst exercising reefing Topsail, a heavy Squall struck the ship, which fortunately I saw in time, and took Mainsail off, keeping away and as wind shifted from SE to NW with heavy rain, I furled sails after some trouble and put her at it under steam. Wind and sea ahead and she pitched into it and has been doing so all day. Have just put her under sail to dry them.

It is most trying working men aloft because of the little practice and much want of knowledge, not only on the part of the men, but the officers who are quite adrift. In fact seamanship is dead and buried, as far as sails go. I regret it, but there is no use worrying myself.

12 October - Sunday

I arrived at Suakin on 2nd October having made a sailing passage down and called on Captain Hacket-Pain the Acting Governor. He returned my visit next day with his A.D.C, Mr Du Plat-Taylor, and I took the opportunity of protesting most strongly against the policy being carried out, as one opposed to humanity. It took him rather aback.

On the 18th Sept after having, the evening before, loaded them with dhurra, some 5 to 10,000 people were packed off into a famine stricken country, and from all accounts, most of them must have perished. Some were robbed not 6 miles from Suakin of the dhurra they possessed. A cordon, most ineffective, was drawn round. The excuse being cholera at Massowah, and the only use made of the cordon, as far as I could see, was to prevent famished people from coming through, though as a matter of fact, they did come through and were picked up half dead.

At the entrance of the harbour, some 100 poor people had come through cordon and were living on shell fish, and had been so for 14 days, when I drew the Governor’s attention to their case. Not allowed to buy or receive any dhurra, and obtaining water by stealth from the Wells by night, he packed them off to Agig in dhows.

Out of the 5 to 6000 sent off into the country some 3000 had been receiving relief gratuitously the morning of the 17th, some 1300 being women and some 1200 children. Those too ill to move were removed into two Zerebas, one under Dr Myles (Govt) and one under Dr Harpur (C.M.S), and now there are about 400 in each. In Dr Harpur’s, some 170 are children, mostly orphans, and then some 800 were sent away in dhows to different places along the coast. 600 coming to Agig, being fed by the Govt.

It has been a wrong and wicked policy trying to hit at the Dervishes through non-combatants and has utterly failed, the only effect having been to starve thousands of non-combatants.

I have had several very long chats with Dr Harpur, who has given me much information. My daily walk has been to his Zereba to visit the unfortunate beings, a goodly number of whom have died from exhaustion, after such a trying time before being taken in.

I left Suakin on Friday 10th and arrived here at Agig Bahdur yesterday, bringing Mr Du Plat-Taylor to inspect for the Govt and I brought Mr H. E. Barnham as my guest.

We inspected the people sent down yesterday and found they had been well looked after. Some 100 had elected to go over to the mainland from the Island, leaving about 500 being fed.

There is practically free communication between the Island and Mainland and of course the Quarantine Regulations, are a perfect farce.

Ther. 4 pm 90° - 10 pm 88°

DEPART SUAKIN

19 October - Sunday

Garnet arrived at Suakin yesterday and sailed for Suez this forenoon after service.

Last Thursday (16th), I went out and hauled the Egyptian steamer Cherbia off a coral reef. It gave me some anxiety cruising about amongst unsurveyed reefs and twice I nearly went ashore.

Delightful letters from my beloved Olga.

28 October - Tuesday

I arrived at Suez on the 23rd and Port Said on the 25th leaving this morning for Alexandria and Malta.

This afternoon some 8 wagtails, migrating, very tame fed on deck off crumbs of bread. One fellow was very pugnacious, and by dint of being very ferocious drove the rest off and we were obliged to feed them on the other side of the deck. A small goldfinch came down and had a feed too. The pugnacious wagtail did not attack it for a long time, but at last it drove it away. It kept chirping whilst running about, clearing the others off.

AT ALEXANDRIA

31 October - Friday

Arrived Wednesday at Alexandria and lunched with Pringle. Paid some calls and yesterday lunched with Admiral Blomfield and had tea at the Institute. A large number of men, 120, had tea there, and afterwards we heard Revd Mr Haslam speak, and he certainly spoke very well, putting the plan of salvation and holding forth Jesus Christ so simply yet forcibly, and making Him stand forth as such a reality.

Adm. B. was much impressed and I am sure some souls were saved that evening. I felt much refreshed.

Left Alexandria at 6 am this morning for Malta, having on board a very fine white donkey for Sir Anthony’s adopted daughter

I keep my temper, though surely tried at times by the shocking display of ignorance.

ARRIVE MALTA

10 November - Monday

Arrived at Malta last Thursday and found the Victoria, Benbow, Agamemnon, Inflexible, Temeraire, Edinburgh, Undaunted, Phaeton, Dolphin, Polyphemus, Scout, and Garnet in. The rest of the Fleet being in the Levant.

The German Squadron came in on Saturday. Kaiser, Deutchland, Friedrich Carl, Preussen, and Pfeil. We received the German Admiral (my old friend Schroeder) and all the Captains at Admiral Buller’s and half an hour afterwards we returned the visit; each Captain in his own boat and going on board the Kaiser in order of seniority.

14 November - Thursday

Ida Grogan’s birthday on the 11th.

No letter from Olga today. I fear she is in much trouble and grief, her poor father dying.

German Squadron left today.

On Tuesday went with Lowry to Lady Smyth’s reception; very crowded. We also wrote our names in Princess Louis’ book. I am not very anxious to know her better as I think she is inclined to do ‘royalty’ too much.

Had a long talk yesterday with Lord Charles, who is anxious to be the first Minister of Public Defence and talked a good deal of doing this, that, and the other. I told him he’d much better stay in the service as the politicians would simply use him and when he was squeezed, would shy him away.

He said Lord Randolph was going to stay with him and he intended getting up a party for Administrative Reform and he did not mean to let R.C. use him, rather the reverse.

I said I was not so sure of that and also combated his idea that the Army would acquiesce in having a Sailor put over them and told him the country gets tired of one cry and he agreed with me that the Conservatives would not get in at the next election.

25 November - Tuesday

Last Thursday, I received a visit from Prince Bernadotte, Captain of the Swedish frigate Sveja and in the course of conversation, in making some allusion to Sailors’ Home, he asked me if I was a Christian, and on my telling him that I was, he said I was the first Christian officer he had chanced to meet since he had left Sweden.

We had a nice conversation together, and talked over difficulties. He told me he kept Sunday disengaged, so I arranged with him for the day - and also promised to get some one to speak to his men at the Home, as he talked of giving them a tea. On going over the gangway he gave me such a warm grasp of the hand, asking God to bless me.

Friday, I returned his call, but had not much time to have a chat with him, as so many Captains and the Governor were calling.

On Sunday, I called for him and took him up to the Floriana Rest where we had a Bible meeting, Lowry also being there; then back to tea on board and on to the San Lorenzo Rest, where we had a very nice meeting, Major Sherrard speaking very well and so straight. Then Lowry, Sherrard, P.B. and myself returned to Melita and had supper on board, having a prayer before parting.

29 November - Saturday

Last Wednesday Lowry and I gave the Swedish sailors, to the number of about 75, a feast at the Sailor’s Rest, Floriana, and they commenced at 6 pm. Lowry, Sherrard, P.B, myself, Vaughan sitting at the head table. At 7 pm Sherrard prayed in English, P.B in Swedish followed by a few verses from the Bible in English and Swedish, and then an address by Sherrard, P.B translating. A hymn or two and we left, leaving the men to themselves. They sang glees until 8.30 at which time they all went off. Lady Hoskins had sent down 90 very pretty button holes, which pleased the men very much.

On Thursday, I called on Lady Hoskins to thank her and afterwards I had a very interesting spiritual talk with Sir Anthony, making P. Bernadotte the peg to hang my conversation on.

Yesterday I met the P & O Ganges and took Olga’s friends on shore, the Armitages. Then called on Col Ramsay, and Sir Owen and Lady Agnes Burne. Dined with Sherrard and had a most deeply interesting talk with him on matters of the very and utmost importance to me.

3 December - Wednesday

Sir Owen and Lady Agnes and Miss Burne paid me a visit and had tea on board. Sir Owen a shrewd man I should think. Miss Burne a nice young girl. I took Sir Owen up to Sherrards afterwards, where we had a nice chat.

4 December - Thursday

Paid the Armitages a visit and chatted with the ladies for an hour and a half, entirely about my beloved Olga, dearer and more precious to me day by day.

5 December - Friday

Walked round the harbour with Dickinson and Duddings, and then paid Sherrard a visit. Bad throat yesterday, but I am better today.

Very loving letters from Olga, who must be and is in great trouble about her dear father, who is dying.

7 December - Sunday

Sherrard drove me out yesterday to Casa Lija, and we called on Miss Creagh, who is far from well and lives with her mother, 87 years old. I find it such a blessing to have such a friend as Sherrard, who is so clear and true.

Troubled last night with doubts; also this afternoon after the Bible meeting at the Floriana Rest. I communed with God walking along the road in the gloaming and received much comfort from going straight back to the blood shed at Calvary - that washed every stain from my soul.

8 December - Monday

Mr and Miss Armitage came to tea. A nice frank girl - our talk chiefly of ‘My Olga - I certainly never thought I could have loved any girl so much as I do Olga. There is a bodily union and a spiritual union in matrimony and the more we subordinate the former to the latter, the purer our love, but there is a constant warfare going on between the spirit and the flesh. The imaginations of the heart are very simple and the thought of foolishness is sin.

10 December - Wednesday

Walked round harbour with Dudding, nice chat, had tea at Sherrards.

13 December - Saturday

At 11 am received a telegram from Olga informing me that her father had died last night at 10 pm passing away peacefully. I sent a telegram back.

14 December - Sunday

Poor Robbie’s birthday. How I long to hear from him once more, he is certainly in my thoughts.

Attended service at the Dockyard Yard Church this forenoon, and Bible Class at the Floriana Institute and then a visit to the Civil Hospital, tea at Club and to the San Lorenzo Rest. Heard a capital address from my friend Sherrard, who afterwards supped with me, and we had a very interesting talk on those difficult passages in Hebrews St Peter, he explained them so clearly.

15 December - Monday

A loving letter from my Olga. Had 5 o’clock tea with Lady Hoskins, Sir Anthony in conversation with me told me he knew nothing of promotions now and had very little influence, my heart sank and I have now but very faint hopes of promotion this time.

18 December - Thursday

Heard from Olga, who told me of her father’s death. He died very peacefully at last, inflammation of both lungs having set in.

19 December - Friday

Walked with Sherrard round to Sliema and had 5 o’clock tea at Staff Commander and Mrs Tully’s. At 9.30 pm went with Com. Prickett to Sir Anthony’s reception, very crowded, remained ½ an hour and then on board to bed.

20 December - Saturday

Prickett and I walked round the harbour and had 5 o’clock tea at Sherrards. Had an interesting spiritual talk on the way round.

The Orontes went out this morning carrying the old crews of Dreadnought and Agamemnon to England; much cheering.

Met Sir Anthony in the Club, and had a yarn with him. He told me, he intended sending me down to Alexandria as S.N.O. The Carysfort being ordered home by telegraph.

21 December - Sunday

Took the Communion, the only one at D. Yard Chapel at 7.30.

This afternoon heard from dear Lel and I walked out with Sharples to the RNH where Dr Dinnis examined my left ear, which I over-syringed last August, and since it has given me much trouble and anxiety. The examination proved that the drum was not broken, but, the muceous-membrane is so swollen, it is difficult to see what is the matter, so I am having it syringed now to get the swelling down.

22 December - Monday

Heard from Olga, who is evidently in deep distress. She told me of all the preparations for the funeral of her father.

23 December - Tuesday

I dined with (Major) Vella of the Royal Malta Militia, in their room at the Palace, some 58 were dining. I sat next to Sir Adrian Dingli, Chief Justice; full of information. He told me he remembered as a boy, seeing the last knight of Malta walking about the Streets, in a scarlet cloak and three cornered hat.

Amongst the guests were Monsignor Delacarte, the Chaplain to the Regt, Father Horniod [?], the head of the Jesuit College, an Englishman, and said to be the real governor of Malta. Especially under the government of Sir Lintorn Simmons and Sir H. Torrens. I left early.

Christmas day - Thursday

A great disappointment, nearly all our mails have gone adrift so we shall not get any until we arrive at Alexandria.

Attended service at D.Yard Chapel. No Christmas hymns, only a dreadful anthem. Much disappointed thereat. Don’t care much for Sutton the Chaplain.

I was very seedy all last night, diarrhoea and sickness 4 or 5 times, so unable to dine with Chawner, who with Mrs Chawner had kindly asked me to dine Christmas day. So I went to Sherrards and spent the evening dining quietly with him and at parting we had a prayer together.

26 December - Friday

Lunched with Sir Anthony and Lady Hoskins. He wishes me to take ten days going down.

Worse luck does not fancy I shall get my promotion and I think he knows.

Left at 4 pm today.

DEPART MALTA

27 December - Saturday

Did firing from Heavy and Machine Guns this forenoon and made sail this afternoon.

I regret I was rather hasty this afternoon with I--d.

1891

2 January - Friday

After averaging about 80 miles a day under sail, and the wind falling light last night, I got up steam and intend D.V. getting into Alexandria on Monday the 5th.

Commenced another year yesterday and I desire most humbly to consecrate myself to the Lord in everything, and also to record my deep and heartfelt thanks to him for the many spiritual blessings poured down and upon me during the last twelve months, shewing me, how blind, and self-satisfied I was, and how utterly unworthy I was and am of the least of all his mercies.

I pray, I may grow in grace this coming year (if spared) and also that Olga my beloved fiancée and I may be a great blessing to each other, helping one another heavenward and also that His

blessing may rest upon my loved sisters and brothers and relatives.

18 January - Sunday

Having arrived at Alexandria on the 5th of this month, relieving Garnet, I in turn was relieved by the Amphion, Capt. Hutton, and am now on my way to Cyprus to report on the best means of moving a colossal capital to Malta, en route to the British Museum, and if possible to do it myself.

I had a very pleasant stay at Alexandria, meeting old friends, and found a new word of Christian greeting and his photos here, left behind by Prince Bernadotte.

Mr Game and Mr Locke have fallen out at the Port Said Rest and much sharp contention between them. Evidently one will have to go, especially as the women do not get on together. Loving letters from Olga.

St John Ker spent the 14th with me having returned to his work.

He is a believer to a certain extent now, but I do not think sees very clearly yet. Once he does he will be a very out and out Christian.

VISIT TO FAMAGUSTA

14 February - Saturday

A month behind. The fact is my letters to Olga take the place of my journal and I must drop journal. I was relieved by the Amphion at Alexandria, and I went up to Famagusta in Cyprus to remove a colossal capital weighing some 4 tons from the ruins of Salamis, and take it down to Malta.

It was an interesting bit of work, necessitating my sending out Topmasts, Anchors and a lot of gear to Salamis, 5½ miles out. The weather was most boisterous, and very cold, the thermometer going down to 27 on one occasion. It took me, not counting the week occupied in sending things out, exactly 8½ working days from the commencement of rigging the Sheers, until it was on board. I was very fortunate in having a fine day to get it to the ship lying in the outer roads.

I had asked for it in prayers. The next day, it came on to blow hard and I let go my second anchor, and got steam up for full speed, but finding I was dragging on to the reef, I cleared out, and had some difficulty coming by my anchors.

I paid Sir Harry Bulwer a visit at Nicosia, driving up the 40 miles with Sir Elliot Bovill, Chief Justice, who gave me a lift in his carriage. Sir Henry was most hospitable and kind, and I spent several days most pleasantly with him.

On returning to Alexandria, I found I had to go to Port Said, to take the place of the Dolphin ordered to Suakin, as the Egyptian troops are advancing on Tokar. So I transferred Bull to Amphion and came on here. Reindeer homeward bound, coming in the same time. Needham dined with me. Phaeton passed through for Suakin.

19 February - Thursday

Tomorrow I arrive at Suakin. Last Saturday 14th I received a telegram to proceed to Suez and await orders, so I left on Sunday and did not get through Canal until Monday morning, being up all night. We passed the Admiral Korniloff with Grand Duke George on board. I found Phaeton at Suez. Custance in Cairo. She embarks E.D. Grenfell and staff on Tuesday.

After several telegrams I got orders to leave for Suakin, which I did on Monday night making a good passage down. Am getting all my men ready for landing, if required. Ship shaking much from screw.

23 February - Monday

Phaeton and Melita arrived at Suakin last Friday, and heard the news that the battle had been fought at Tokar on the previous day and a brilliant victory gained, so we are too late. The first chance I’ve had of seeing active service in my Naval Career, however I am sure “It is well.”

The regiments, two black and one Gyppy, left here last Friday week, and landed at Timkitat the following Sunday. Commenced marching on Tokar on the Tuesday and reached El Teb, 10 miles, the same day. Wednesday they were delayed by a Sand Storm.

Thursday, on reaching the ruins of old Tokar, 5 miles on from El Teb, the enemy some 2000 strong, probably about 1000 Dervishes, suddenly attacked them. The regiments at once lined the ruined walls of old Tokar and poured in a most destructive fire in 20 minutes the action was practically over and the enemy left 700 dead on the field and amongst the British, Major Barrow was shot through the heart at the beginning of the action and 12 Egyptians were killed and 44 wounded.

The enemy had 100 rifles, the rest being spearmen. They charged right up - Osman Naib was shot by Machall and Osman Digua [?] fled to Kassala. From the first to the last shot was 1¼ hours. The troops, 2000 rifles and 100 horse, and fired 100,000 rounds.

I think this battle settles the whole of the Eastern Soudan, as Tokar is the centre of the grain district and the Tokar force was composed of not more than 1000 fighting men and the rest only pressed in pro. tem.

Dolphin and Sandfly at Timkitat. No Naval Brigade was landed as Admiral would not give permission.

1 March - Sunday

Red Sea. The Admiral arrived in Surprise last Friday and I left Suakin yesterday at 4 pm and had to anchor inside a reef for the night.

DEPART SUAKIN

6 March - Friday

Arrived at Suez last night. 1130 pm.

Received many mails this morning. Several from my beloved Olga. Buz got a tutorship with Lord and Lady MacDonald, friends of Francie’s, until Easter.

ARRIVE PORT SAID

7 March - Saturday

Arrived at Port Said.

Heard that an unknown friend from Ireland has sent us £100 for the Rest. A direct answer to prayer. The very sum asked for the rent due the end of this month and nothing in hand. Had somewhat troubled me.

8 March - Sunday

Attended service on shore. Strange the clergyman. Nothing in his sermon.

Paid the Hospital a visit and had a chat with a seaman from Curacoa who had his leg amputated last Monday. He told me how much he had felt the discomforts of the Lower Deck. The disgusting language etc.

9 March - Monday

Malabar arrived and sailed for Suez. Jones AB invalided, Phthisis. Had good news from Edward Grogan regarding Harry being taken in at £40 a year.

Wrote Adm. Hopkins.

Received missing Cyprus mails, which had one from my dear brother Rob. I have not, nor has anyone heard of him for two years, since he had yellow fever at Jacksonville. He is now in New York.

10 March - Tuesday

Phaeton passed through to Alexandria and Malta. Sent off numerous letters to everyone, 15 or 16 in all.

Ganges went through at 11 pm. HRH the Duke of Cambridge on board. Sent the Gunner with a couple of packets for HRH.

11 March - Wednesday

Crocodile passed through Canal to India.

This day five years ago my dear father received the G.S.P. I sent him a telegram from Berehaven being in the Shannon at the time, congratulating him, little thinking the short time he would hold it. He only received one quarter’s pay of it, which he gave as a thank offering to Bradford’s.

PM. Received a letter from Francie saying Ted would probably not pay anything more for the two girls on account of his increasing expenses. Felt a little depressed. On my knees.

Ashore to Hospital. Rest to Mr Roll. Had a long talk with the latter regarding fugitive Jews going through.

12 March - Thursday

Sent off letters to Olga, Francie and Lel. Received one from Lel, but none from Olga. Much fear the latter is not well.

14 March - Saturday

Surprise arrived this morning at 1 am. Admiral disembarked at Ismailia for Cairo. Sent a nice letter, pleased at my transportation of the Bull. 2 pm. Surprise sailed.

Landed and paid some calls and then to Hospital and had a chat with Martin and Young. Had an interesting spiritual talk with Young.

Dined as usual by myself on board.

15 March - Sunday

This forenoon Mr R C Morgan and Mr Barron paid me a visit. I was very glad to see them both and had a long chat regarding the work going on here.

Attended service on shore with the men and this afternoon went on board the Austrian Lloyd to see Mr Morgan and Mr Barron off.

Took the Holy Communion this morning.

On going to the Bible Dept to get a Bible for a man (Young) at the Hospital, found Taylor and half a dozen others breaking bread. They asked me to join, which I did. It was all done very simply and I liked it. The first time I have taken it in this way. I should think St Paul and the other primitive Xtians must have taken it this way.

A large number at the meeting at Rest this evening. Some 30 sailors.

17 March - Tuesday

Bible meeting at Rest this evening.

This afternoon had a chat with Young at the Hospital.

18 March - Wednesday

Mail came in. No letters from Olga. I cannot help feeling a little anxious as I have not heard for a fortnight and when she last wrote, she was not at all well.

Went to Monsieur Rumeau’s this evening to private theatricals in French. Did not understand a word and glad to get away at 12 30, tired and bitten by mosquitoes.

Mrs R. in a shockingly low dress.

19 March - Thursday

Paid £60 rent for the Rest.

Wish I had heard from Olga yesterday. Shall telegraph if I do not hear soon, Heard from Olga this evening.

Heard from my bosom friend Henry Mandeville of the death of Maud, his wife. Much cut up by the news.

20 March - Friday

Wrote my beloved friend Henry Mandeville last night. His letter to me most touching; pierced to the heart but looking through all to Christ. Left with three little girls, poor Henry.

Peculiarly linked to me since 1865 when I was a mid in his watch. He one of the wildest Irishmen, so gallant, brave and clever. Promoted for gallantry saving men at the burning of the Bombay, saved at other times many lives from drowning. A Beaufort man at College, owner of Anner Castle and since 1870 a preacher of the Gospel.

21 March - Saturday

Made some calls on shore. Mr Alexander of the Seamens’ Rest Aid Society paid me a visit.

22 March - Sunday

Took the Communion this morning. Mr Cobham, Commissioner at Laruarka [?] called on me, en route to Japan. We walked out to the Hospital together.

A grand meeting at the Rest this evening, over 50 seamen. I read part of XIV John and on commencing to speak, one man interrupted by saying “We must be justified by our works.” and I begged of him to wait until the close of the meeting and we could talk it over.

I felt fired with zeal and spoke most vehemently on its being all grace. I felt I must combat this specious Satanic argument and I am thankful to say that I never spoke more earnestly.

A missionary, Mr D H Davis followed and spoke very well. He had come by God’s providence just after the meeting commenced and had to leave soon after speaking. He had travelled 8000 miles, where from or where to, I do not know. Then a lady, Miss Blackwell followed, also a visitor.

Himalaya passed through. Paid Hammick a visit. Called on the Royles and met Lt Dunmore and Judge Hills from Alexandria.

Oliver a touch of fever.

Palimuro, [?] Italian man of war came in from Massowah.

24 March - Tuesday

Euphrates arrived and I boarded her. Took my first cousin, Harry Kelham, Major in the 74th, for a walk on board Melita. I had not seen him since 1879 in Hong Kong. Not much altered, evidently fond of sport and I know he is a good one too as he has done a good deal up in the Himalayas. We were both very glad at seeing each other again.

Received a visit from the Captain of the Italian Palimuro that came in yesterday.

Called at Continental Hotel on Mrs Anderson, left here by Euphrates en route to Aden. Finding Wilmott was looking after her, did not press my attentions on her.

25 March - Wednesday

Sports went off very well from 2 pm to 6 30, the last ones coming off in front of the Navy House, where we had a lot of ladies to tea and the Governor, General Ibrahim Rouchdy [?] Pasha. I had many of the French people down also.

26 March - Thursday

Inglefield had a large party off to tea and the clever Arab juggler performed the most wonderful tricks.

Brady called on his way home. Italian Palimuro sailed.

28 March - Saturday

HMS Stork arrived this morning. Lt Cdr Smyth breakfasted with me.

Oliver, touch of fever. Walked to the Hospital.

29 March - Sunday

Took the Communion. Lunched with Harringtons. Portuguese gunboat Rio Lima arrived from Aden.

Not a sailor from the Colliers at meeting. We had a prayer meeting instead.

I have received much comfort this day from 2nd verse of LVII Psalm.

31 March - Tuesday

Dolphin telegraphed she is ordered from Suakin to Port Said, so I hope to get away from here.

3 April - Friday

The ship covered with coal dust from the Colliers, though not quite so bad as yesterday.

Olga’s letters cheer me up. She writes such loving and clever letters.

4 April - Saturday

3 pm. Blanche arrived. Lindley, who succeeded me in Shannon as Cdr in 1887, commands her.

I had M. Rumeau and his wife and also M. Flori and his wife off to tea. They were much pleased.

Lindley dined with me.

5 April - Sunday

Attended service on shore. Walked out with Lindley to the hospital. I made the acquaintance of a nice young Norwegian who is seriously ill with Dropsy.

Find it very cheering writing to Olga.

6 April - Monday

Turned over Navy Yard to Count Van der Dryn.

Walked out to Hospital and had a yarn with Andersen, the Norwegian. He is very ill. Then to Cricket match and walked out with Lindley and dined with him and spent a very pleasant evening.

8 April - Wednesday

Lunched Prirellegio [?] Pasha.

Visited Admiral Robinson on board the Manora, who is the new CinC East Indian Station.

Dressed ship in honour of Prince Mohammed Ali, Khedive’s second son, passing by en route for Cairo. Visited my friend the Norwegian lad. Had a nice talk with him.

Met Mr Dyer of Bombay at the Rest.

10 April - Friday

Had a talk with the poor Norwegian lad, who is dying and is very weak. It is impossible to say much.

11 April - Saturday

Tyne and Italian arrived.

Visited Andreas in hospital

Heard from Harry Grogan.

12 April - Sunday

Dolphin arrived 2 am.

Cdr Dudding breakfasted and lunched with me. Received visits from Cdr Goodridge and Cdr of Italian Curtatone.

Very busy turning over duties to Dudding.

Visited my Norwegian friend at Hospital. Dying and at times in great pain. My heart wrung and tears in my eyes. I could only hold his hand and pray to Jesus.

A pleasant meeting at the Rest. God’s spirit there, I trust a blessing may have come to some.

DEPART PORT SAID

13 April - Monday

Left Port Said.

ARRIVE JAFFA

14 April - Tuesday

Arrived at Jaffa.

4 pm. Henderson, self, Mr Everett, Mr Clark left Jaffa for Jerusalem in a Landau. 37 of the men went up also.

I slept at Ramleh for the night.

15 April - Wednesday

1 pm arrived at Jerusalem. Visited many places. Charmed with everything.

16 April - Thursday

Delighted with my visit, exceeding my anticipations.

Mrs Campbell gave a tea to our men and an address. Some 12 of our men there. She speaks very well.

17 April - Friday

Visiting everywhere, Bible in hand. I did not bother about the so called Holy Places.

Had supper with Rev and Mrs Wilson.

18 April - Saturday

Left this morning for Jaffa at 8 am, arrived 3 pm. Paid Misses Edith and Effie Newton a visit.

Left at 8 pm for Beyrout.

DEPART JAFFA

ARRIVE BEYROUT

19 April - Sunday

Arrived this evening at Beyrout.

Col Trotter and Mr Fane, Sec. to Embassy at Constantinople and Eyres, Consul at Damascus, paid me a visit.

20 April - Monday

Paid visits to Waza Pasha, the Governor General of the Lebanon and A.Pasha [?] Gen. of Beyrout.

Took up my quarters at the Trotter’s house. Mrs Trotter was G. Wellesley and knew Kers at Rome. She was a great friend of my sisters Meta and Francie.

21 April - Tuesday

Staying at Trotters. Very pleasant.

22 April - Wednesday

Had a charming ride with Mrs Trotter round the pine woods and a long talk with her. In the evening met Mackie and others at dinner.

24 April - Friday

Rode up to Aleich, 3000 ft up on the Lebanon and 12 miles by road.

Magnificent views, the hills terraced from top to bottom, olive mulberry and fig trees and vines planted everywhere. Wheat and barley.

We lunched with some wealthy Syrians at their country house, a tremendous spread. Tired on my return at 8 pm, not having ridden for some time.

25 April - Saturday

Returned on board from my pleasant stay at the Trotters.

26 April - Sunday

Service on board.

In the evening had supper with Miss Thompson of the British Syrian Schools and attended the meeting at 7 pm. Some 80 to 100 girls of all ages present and 20 of our men, whom Miss Thompson had been entertaining at tea.

I gave a short address. It was so pleasant to hear the singing of the girls and the bass voices of the men joining in.

27 April - Monday

Blowing hard all night. Let go the 2nd anchor. Had to postpone my trip in ship to Jebel. Wassa Pasha and Trotters were coming at 11 am.

Trotter and French vice consul came off to say the Seignelay had gone ashore last night at Jaffa, so at 4 pm I was steaming S.

AT JAFFA

28 April - Tuesday

Arrived at 11 am and had a try with an Austrian, French and Russian merchant steamer at Seignelay, but no success. Am not struck with the energy shown by the French.

It is difficult to approach her as she is right up close to the beach and I cannot get nearer than 400 yards and such a swell running, and I have no large hawsers.

29 April - Wednesday

Undaunted turned up. Paid a visit to Seignelay with Beresford, who roused up the French Captain and at 1 pm we had 150 of our men working day and night clearing out the ship.

30 April - Thursday

Went in, picked up anchor astern of Seignelay, shifted cable and whilst turning the ship cautiously round, the 3½ inch wire fouled my screw. Diver could not file it through or clear it.

Sea breeze came on and I was in very shallow water riding by my kedge, so out I had to go. Turkish paddler took me in tow and gave a tremendous lug towards the rocks. I dashed forward and cast off hawser and made fore and aft sail, and eventually Foresail and Topsail and just managed to scrape past the rocks, 60 fms of wire hawser trailing along from my screw.

I was very anxious for ¼ hour, but God mercifully watched over the ship. Beresford signalled his congratulations in the way sail was made. Decks lumbered up and ropes coiled up.

By 6 pm hawser was clear of screw and we worked away all night and by 11 pm I was in position again astern of Frenchman, ready for hauling. Everyone was working splendidly and I think we astonished the Frenchmen at the way we worked. Beresford and many thought I was done for on the rock.

I heartily thank God for his Merciful preservation and sending me the exact amount of wind required and right direction.

1 May - Friday

Working away hard all night. Away myself under running hawsers etc and bending them. At 3 am tugged at Seignelay for a good hour and moved her 15 yards, when hawser carried away to my disgust.

5 to 7 am I looked out and sent every one away to rest, and the rest of the day we laid out 6 inch wires to S. and Undaunted laid out by lighters 18 shackles of Seignelay’s to us.

At 11 am I had another tug, but failed and at 4 pm we tried again.

Being HW, moved her a little and strain from Undaunted coming on, she came off with a swish and I had just time to slip my cable, and cable connecting me to Undaunted, and dashed off with Seignelay in tow to keep her clear of the rocks, and after some manoeuvring, there being a lot of steamers in the way, S. anchored. Her rudder is entirely gone.

Hearty cheers were given all round and I felt relieved, for it is not pleasant going into such shallow water with rocks about.

Beresford signalled “Your men have worked splendidly” and he is quite right, Mr Everett with his 20 men on board Seignelay set an example both to the Frenchmen and Undaunted by the way they worked day and night. Capt. Conneaud of Seignelay, Lt Rees, acting as go between, reported to Beresford the splendid way they worked.

I regret to say a few of Undaunted behaved badly, one man actually going into wine cellars of French Officers and caught there.

Well Beresford is a splendid fellow to work under. I wish all officers had his zeal and energy. I am afraid my friend I. is affected by his health. He soon loses heart.

2 May - Saturday

Busy picking up gear belonging to Frenchman. The Fronde arrived just too late.

Had Edith and Effie Newton off to tea. Lowry joined us and then we went to Undaunted, where Beresford entertained us.

3 May - Sunday

Cécille arrived, a very fine ship.

Had service on board the Undaunted. Lunched with C.B, had tea with the Newtons and then to Church and had Communion, Rev Langley Hall preached a very good sermon. Then to dinner with C.B, meeting Captain and 2 officers of Seignelay and Turkish Captain.

Did not half like turning out and had partly refused, but C.B, I saw was hurt, so accepted.

4 May - Monday

Went over Cécille and had nice chat with her Commander. The Captain, Michel, an old acquaintance when Captain of D’Estaing at Zanzibar.

Lowry and I met the native teachers at the Newtons, a nice meeting.

Undaunted and Melita sailed at 9 pm. Much cheering.

ARRIVE PORT SAID

5 May - Tuesday

Arrived Port Said. Found Sandfly here. My poor Swedish friend at the hospital died sometime ago.

Mr and Mrs Attlee looking after the Rest whilst the Lockes are away at Bethlehem.

Many letters and am sanguine that I am getting my step next batch D.V.

Loving letters as usual from Olga.

6 May - Wednesday

Sold my skiff as I am getting hard up, I’m sorry to say. So many calls on my purse and ½ pay looming ahead.

7 May - Thursday

Left at 5 am for Beyrout. Fine weather.

ARRIVE BEYROUT

8 May - Friday

Arrived 4 pm. Dined and slept at Trotters.

9 May - Saturday

Cricket match against Beyrout. We were beaten by 60 to 46. Played in a pine wood, the magnificent Lebanon towering up overhead, its slopes covered with towns and villages.

Somewhat troubled by money matters.

10 May - Sunday

Service on board. I remained on board all day reading and writing.

11 May - Monday

Miss Wardlow Ramsay and Miss Barker came off to see the ship, very sea sick.

12 May - Tuesday

Paid Mrs Mott a visit then, with Mrs Mott, paid Dr Vandyck a visit. He has been 50 years here.


13 May - Wednesday

2 am. Woke up hearing the wind rushing down. Jumped out of bed and stood by the 2nd anchor.

The Trotters came off the ship at 7 am, but wind and sea still getting up, decided not to make the start to Haifa.

Ship most uncomfortable.

ARRIVE HAIFA

14 May - Thursday

Left for Haifa at 9 am with Col and Mrs Trotter on board. A nasty passage down, a rough sea. Arrived at Haifa at 8 pm

Had Perkins and Mr Everett to dinner to meet Trotters.

15 May - Friday

Paid a visit to the Convent near Light Ho, met by an English brother. Evidently an educated Englishman, only been out 6 months. The vicar for the Father Superior is a Maltese. He showed us round.

Very interesting to see the German colony cutting the barley.

16 May - Saturday

Weighed and steamed across to Acre, taking the Trotters and staff. Landed and paid official visits to the Governor, who returned it. Then landing again, walked round the fortifications.

My father, Inglefields’s and Mrs Trotter’s were all present at the bombardment of Acre in 1840 as Mates.

Returned to Haifa in the evening and I had a small dinner party.

18 May - Monday

Paid a visit to the Carmelite Convent.

19 May - Tuesday

Inglefield and I rode out to El-Muhraqa, the place of Elijah’s sacrifice and back by the Druze village of Walezeh, where Laurence Oliphant at one time lived. We had a cup of tea at his house, Mrs Cuthbert still living there, and we rode back over and through Carmel, altogether 36 miles. The views from Carmel of the plains of Esdraclon and Acre and the many historic localities were magnificent. I could fill pages about it all. Such light is thrown on the Bible by living in this country.

21 May - Thursday

The Carmelite fathers, Simon Stock and Father Felix, also Mrs Walmsley, a visitor, paid Melita a visit at my invitation. Simon Stock is an Englishman.

After they had gone I had some 40 to 50 girls who attend Mrs Low’s school off.

The Trotters returned from Nazareth.

Sent seining party away.

ARRIVE TYRE

22 May - Friday

Left Haifa at 7 am and arrived at Tyre at 2 pm. Landed and rode to the fountains near where old Tyre stood.

The prophecies of Ezekiel and Isaiah are carried out to the minutest detail and so it shall ever be.

Difficulty with I[nglefield].


23 May - Saturday

This day last year at 6 30 pm at the Maison Bey Duprey first met my Olga after being engaged to her. (At Cairo).

ARRIVE BEYROUT

24 May - Sunday

Trotter and I up last night looking after Mrs Trotter who is suffering from a touch of dysentery and was in much pain.

After paying a lot of official visits, ashore to the Kamiakan and had luncheon with our Vice Consul, Dr Abella. I left Sidon and arrived at Beyrout 6 pm and landed Mrs Trotter.

I had not intended leaving until Monday, but was afraid of Mrs Trotter getting worse.

25 May - Monday

Muggy and close weather.

Had 5 o’clock tea with Trotters in Madame’s room (OK).

26 May - Tuesday

Blowing and raining hard all day. Up part of the night.

27 May - Wednesday

Trotter had a large function at his house in honour of the Queen’s birthday and I dressed ship and helped Trotter to receive Wassa Pasha, the Governor General of the Lebanon and Aziz Pasha, Gov. Gen. of Syria, and the Consul Generals and Consuls of all nations.

Mrs Trotter managed to come down for a couple of hours on the sofa.

I remained to dine quietly with Trotter.

28 May - Thursday

Cricket match. The ship beat the Beyroutians by an innings and 20 runs.

ARRIVE TRIPOLI

30 May - Saturday

Blew very hard last night. Let go my second anchor.

Left Beyrout at 7 am. Arrived Tripoli 4 pm. Visits to Governor, dined with Abdullah Shazi, an old Turk of 80 years of age who was in Benbow in 1840 at Tortosa.

31 May - Sunday

Service on board.

Ashore to receive return visits of Governor. Paid visit to American mission at Tripoli. Heard astonishing stories about the credulity of the Greek Catholics.

Visited an old Turkish House, which was a Hareem 500 years ago. Most lovely Damascus tiles all over the walls in the form of panels. 500 years old and colouring as rich and fresh as the day they were put on. The art of making them died out 200 years ago, one family alone having possessed the art of making them.

On board to dinner.

1 June - Monday

Left Tripoli and at 10 am. Landed Trotter and some officers on the coast to visit the ruins of Maralhus. I then steamed on to Ruad Island and Tortosa, landing at the same spot my dear father did 51 years ago, when his boat lost 11 killed and wounded.

After picking up Trotter and party, proceeded to Latakia.

AT LATAKIA

2 June - Tuesday

Laid off Latakia, whilst Trotter went ashore to visit the place.

AT BEYROUT

3 June - Wednesday

Arrived at Beyrout, dined ashore quietly with the Trotters. Heard from my beloved Olga.

4 June - Thursday

Left Beyrout at 8 am for Malta, fine weather

5 June - Friday

Fine weather, steaming along 6 knts.

7 June - Sunday

Fine weather, light N and W winds. Crete in sight at sunset.

This evening steamer’s lights visible. Steaming and green light reported. On going on deck it turned out to be the moon rising in a cloud.

8 June - Monday

Fine weather. Steamed close in and had good look at the ‘The Fair Havens’, the port that St Paul advised the ship to be wintered at. A very fair anchorage indeed and I think St Paul was quite right from a seaman’s point of view. Steamed under the lea of Clauda Island. See Acts XXVII.

Men working very well individually at drill, but I am afraid they will never be very smart at their times.

ARRIVE MALTA

12 June - Friday

Arrived at Malta. Boadicea, Dreadnought, Agamemnon, Fearless, Sandfly, Humber, Karakatta in.

Dined with Admiral Buller.

Ship went into dock.

13 June - Saturday

Let a marine off from 30 days imprisonment and gave him 14 days cells. Easier in my mind.

Paid Major and Mrs Sherrard a visit.

21 June - Sunday

Attended Dockyard Chapel this morning and Presbyterian Church in the evening, and had supper with the Sherrards. Rather under the weather and sirocco blowing, so I left them early.

Tamar arrived in.

22 June - Monday

Dined with the Bullers, A telegram came from CinC ordering Melita to join his flag. Glad of this, better than going to Port Said.

After dinner went across to the At Home of the Royal Malta Artillery. Open air, band playing, full moon. The battlements of the harbour looked very picturesque.

23 June - Tuesday

Paid Fearless off. Tamar left today with crews of Boadicea and Fearless on board.

Spanish squadron arrived.

24 June - Wednesday

Went to Admiral Buller’s after dinner to meet Spaniards.

25 June - Thursday

Dined on board the Spanish Flagship Pelayo; a long dinner of many courses.

During the afternoon I went all over the Pelayo, a very fine ship.

26 June - Friday

Dolphin left for Suez.

Spanish squadron left for Cartagena.

Dickinson dined with me.

27 June - Saturday

Dined at Club quietly. The place very nearly empty on account of everyone dining over at Club in Sliema.

Lunched with Admiral Buller.

DEPART MALTA

ARRIVE CATTARO

4 July - Saturday

Arrived at Cattaro (Montenegro) this morning. I entered the Gulf of Cattaro at 3 30 am and reached the upper anchorage at 5 30 am. I have never seen such magnificent scenery in all my life.

Found Victoria, Dreadnought, Thunderer, Colossus, Polyphemus and two Torpedo Boats here. Had breakfast with CinC, who has given me a roving cruise this month. Squadron left at 9 30 am except for Thunderer which remained behind to bury a man drowned whilst bathing. I lunched with Dick Hamond, Captain of Thunderer, my old shipmate of Narcissus days.

Very hot here. No wind. Ther. 84 to 86 in my cabin.

5 July - Sunday

About noon clouds began to gather on the mountain tops and coming from southward indicate a Sirocco. Bar steady. Little puffs about from all round.

6 July - Monday

Walked up to Fort Vennae, 1597 feet high. Very good road, it zigzagged 68 times from bottom to top. Beautiful view from the top.

7 July - Tuesday

Weather much cooler. Austrian steamer came in at 7 30 pm, but did not anchor. Picked up someone* and went out again.

*Prince of Montenegro?

ARRIVE BUDUA

8 July - Wednesday

7 am left Cattaro and at 11 30 arrived at Budua. Paid official visits to a number of people and at 4 pm went off with 40 men and Henderson seining, practically for bathing. Everyone enjoyed themselves very much.

Budua is a small fortified place of 1000 people.

ARRIVE DULERGINO

9 July - Thursday

4 30 am left Budua and arrived at Dulergino 9 am, anchored. Boarded by the Montenegrin Harbour Master and informed by the XXIX article of Berlin Treaty no Man of War allowed to anchor in any Montenegrin port, so at 10 am I left.

The HM spoke English very well and was most anxious for me to make some excuse to remain, but I decided not to do so. I said “I suppose some day Prince Nicholas will be King of Servia”, He said “Yes, I see you are a Gladstonite.” We had a long talk over everything.

ARRIVE VLONE BAY

10 July - Friday

Arrived at Vlone Bay. Anchored at the head and with Pearson walked up the right bank of the Nisroro and got some trout. It is a nice little stream and easy to fish.

11 July - Saturday

Preparing to start on a seining expedition and had got ashore when the weather, which looked very threatening, suddenly burst like the Monsoon. We just got back in time when down came wind, hail and rain, and magnificent lightening. Such peals of thunder, resounding from the near mountains was very awful and sublime.

I let go 2nd anchor and raised steamer. Everything looked so uncertain, but after 3 hours it cleared up.

ARRIVE CORFU

13 July - Monday

Left Vlone Bay and arrived at Corfu about 6 pm. Received many letters. Austrian training ship Friedrich in.

14 July - Tuesday

Paid usual visits to Read (Consul) and the Nomarch.

Walked out to the one gun battery and sat under the Olive trees reading.

15 July - Wednesday

Received a telegram from Admiral to proceed to Zante on Friday.

16 July - Thursday

Scout arrived this morning. Battenberg breakfasted with me and told me of their doings in Venice, the Scout having moored in the Grand Canal.

Walked out with B. He hopes to get his step in December. Prince George is to be made on arrival on Aug 4th, so I do not suppose the promotions will come out until the first week in August.

IONIAN ISLANDS

17 July - Friday

Left Corfu at 5 am and arrived at Zante 9 pm, making a very good passage for Melita.

Came down through the Ithaca Channel (Ulysses, King of Ithaca).

Oliver recovered from fever.

21 July - Tuesday

Long agonizing telegram from Battenberg telling me of trouble in Cephalonia and suggesting I should go there.

Wired him to look in en route to Malta.

22 July - Wednesday

Have not gone to Cephalonia, matters being quieter there and new elections not coming off until next Sunday. As troops are being sent there, consider, unless absolutely necessary, more judicious not to go there.

At 3 pm left the harbour and went round the back of the island and visited with Mr Foster and some of the officers, the celebrated pitch springs mentioned by Herodotus.

They are boring for petroleum now.

Sent away parties after Turtle.

23 July - Thursday

Left bay at the back of Zante and returned to Zante to land Mr Forster. Found Russian cruiser Uraletz in with Russian ambassador on board.

Left at 10 30 am for Patras. Heard Polyphemus was at Katakolo.

Our parties caught one large Turtle, 180 lb. last night and lost another.

Arrived 7 pm at Patras and received telegram saying from Phaeton ordering me to Argostoli (Cephalonia).

24 July - Friday

Arrived at Argostoli. Phaeton in here. Last Sunday some shooting went on inside the churches. A few killed and a good number wounded.

On landing with Custance for a walk, heard a steamer (English) was ashore off Cape Mounda, the S point of Cephalonia, so up steam and left at 7 pm and after running some 20 miles, carefully crept in towards the reef and anchored.

Boarded Austin Friars, about 4000 tons with 2000 tons of P. Fuel on board. She went on going 9 kn and is 7 ft out by the bow and 60 ft of her fore keel on the rock. Stern in deep water. Sounded all round.

25 July - Saturday

Moved ship close to steamer and anchored, and placed a party of men on board to shift cargo. Moved 100 tons and had a try at 11 am, did not budge her.

Capt. Grieve returned from Zante with lighter, getting fuel out.

Strong breeze, nasty for boats.

26 July - Sunday

Had several ineffectual tugs at Austin Friars, but failed to move her.

No service on board.

Jettisoning the cargo, threw over 300 tons.

At 4 pm she floated off and though I told Captain where to go, he was obstinate and went ahead and got on the reefs again and bumped heavily, a swell coming up.

Fortunately he got clear and having seen him to a place of safety, I returned to Argostoli.

Received mails and very much upset by a letter from dear Francie.

28 July - Tuesday

Proceeded to Zante.

29 July - Wednesday

Left Zante for Katakolo, Mr Foster the Manager of Telegraphs accompanying me.

5 years ago the best of fathers left. A terrible loss to us all.

30 July - Thursday

Pearson, Henderson, Mr Forster and self went up by train to Pyrgos and then took carriage and went out to Olympia, some 15 miles by carriage. A long hot dusty drive at this time of year, but I was very glad to be visiting such a noted place and seeing the marble slab from which the foot runners started and many of the pedestals with inscriptions on them, one by Praxiteles himself.

In the museum we saw that marvellous piece of statuary Hermes by Praxitiles. A perfect figure of a man and a beautiful face. It almost seems to speak. I was lost in wonder at the conception of the artist.

31 July - Friday

Left Katakolo and proceeded to Zante, where I dropped Mr Forster and then went on to Patras, anchoring there about 6 pm. Lovely weather, tho’ warm.

1 August - Saturday

Walked out this evening to Wood the Consul and met the family there. Wood junior told me one acre of currents gave one ton of fruit and produced £20, £17 of which was cleared.

Heard from Olga this morning.

2 August - Sunday

A very hot day.

Landed at 6 pm and walked round the Venetian Castle on the top of the hill.

Ther. 84 to 86 in my cabin.

6 August - Thursday

Left Patras at 7 30 am for Zante.

Anxiously waiting to hear promotions.

7 August - Friday

Zante. Telegraphed to Woodhead asking if promotions were out. Reply “Gazette 31st July, your name not included.”

I was completely crushed for a time and only found relief on my knees.

Poor dear Olga. How I feel for her, poor child. Like me she has been very confident and had begun to get her trousseau ready poor girl. I telegraphed to her “Just heard. Cheer up.” , but my heart is very very sore. However I know there is a loving hand behind it all and I can trust Him.

I fancy many out here, Com-in-Chief, will be surprised, having 3½ years independent command and 2 years 2nd in command, and having been recommended so highly by my CinC. I know it must be for the best.

8 August - Saturday

Left Zante this morning for Malta. Ship knocking about very much and very uncomfortable. Nearly everyone sick. I am very bad.

9 August - Sunday

Ship still very uncomfortable. I just managed to get through service. Have had Olga very much in my thoughts and though I know it is well, yet my heart is very heavy.

ARRIVE MALTA

10 August - Monday

Arrived at Malta. Undaunted, Inflexible and Phaeton here. I leave on 22nd for Suakin.

11 August - Tuesday

Had a very stormy scene in my cabin, have never had such language used to me before by anyone, as by I.

I was much distressed and felt it very much and trust I have done right in more than passing it over and treating it as a private row. Faults on both sides.


14 August - Friday

My 41st birthday. I ask it may be the beginning of a closer walk and dependence on the Lord Jesus. My head troubles me a little, think it must be from the mental worries, but I thank God, He is enabling me to see how wrong it is to worry about anxieties and that I must take everything to him.

I was much refreshed yesterday by reading Olga’s letter. So true, loving and straight. I feel I have a prize indeed in her.

15 August - Saturday

Lunched with Lowry at the Club. Met Vaughan and Griffiths. Still suffering from my head.

16 August - Sunday

Service on board. My head troubles me. Think I must have had a touch of the sun.

Read the Sermon of the Mount. Oh that I might carry it out in practice.

17 August - Monday

Went out this evening to Boschetti to stay with Wiselys. Cdr Lowry, my great friend, has been here for a fortnight recuperating after an attack of fever.

Two Miss Curtins and Miss Gale here.

18 August - Tuesday

Find it very pleasant at Boschetti and very pretty and air very refreshing.

19 August - Wednesday

Lowry and I walked up to the Palace of Verdala and paid Major General Wilkie a visit, who took us all over the place. A very quaint place, full of secret chambers built in the thick walls. In one when it was opened, the place was found quite black from smoke and the floor looked as if fires had been burnt on it. All round the walls were bolts cut out of the stone wall. It is thought prisoners were suffocated inside these rooms.

20 August - Thursday

I am much better. Entire freedom from all worry and care. Lowry and I went for a long walk.

This evening the Williamsons came out and we sat down to supper, a party of 15.

21 August - Friday

Returned to my ship.

To Admiral’s office. Had a talk to Admiral Buller and then on board Undaunted and had a long yarn with Beresford, who is full of his plan of a Minister of Public Defence, of which he is to be the first occupant.

The French Government have asked him to come up to the Gulf of Juan to shew him some hospitality for getting the Seignelay off. The little Melita goes to Suakin.

To my great delight received a present of some socks from my beloved Olga.

22 August - Saturday

Inspected the Bilges and Engine Room and Boilers and had to tell the Engineer Officer I was not at all pleased at mud being still in the Bilge and red rust on many parts of the main Engines.

Perkins agreed with me and said there was no excuse for the Engines being rusty and also he did not think that Melville, CERA, was very good at supervision.

23 August - Sunday

Met Lowry at 4 pm and after tea at the Sherrards went to service at the Baracca Chapel and heard a wretched sermon from the Senior Military Chaplain, Mr Rosser.

Had supper with the Sherrards.

24 August - Monday

Dined with Beresford, a large party including Admiral Buller, Count and Lady Edeline Strickland. He is and looks a downright Jesuit and she is of not much character.

I drove out this afternoon and returned his call after lunching with Admiral Buller.

25 August - Tuesday

Have written to Baldie to try for Naval Instructor.

26 August - Wednesday

Tamar arrived. Went on board her as Transport officer and saw Hammett.

DEPART MALTA

27 August - Thursday

Left for Alexandria loaded with Stores and Supers.

AT ALEXANDRIA

31 August - Monday

Arrived at Alexandria 2 pm. Found Amphion here.

Glad to stop the screw. Had a good passage down, steam and sail.

Called on Sisters Bourke and Keer at Hospital and heard all about St John’s wife. Then on to Admiral Blomfield and the Institute and made acquaintance of Rivers Ker [Olga’s brother]. Found him reserved and distant and inclined to keep aloof. Disappointed.

Dined with Lawrence.

1 September - Tuesday

Left Alexandria for Port Said.

AT PORT SAID

2 September - Wednesday

Arrived at Port Said and had a long talk with Corfe of Garnet. Find the G.C. Mate implicated in the smuggling of 1000 okes of Hasheesh.

Had a long talk with Mr and Mrs Locke of the Rest, found they needed money very much, so gave £6. £4 more than I intended. I must remember my position for I cannot afford to give so much to this Rest.

TRANSIT SUEZ CANAL

3 September - Thursday

Left Port Said at 7 am, arrived at Ismailia at 6 15 pm. Wilmott, agent for Grindlay, came with us. A very nice fellow and an old varsity man.

ARRIVE SUEZ

4 September - Friday

Arrived at Suez at 2 pm. Met Dolphin. Dudding and I went up to Suez and then I dined with Dudding, attending an entertainment on board his ship afterwards. Very long and tedious.

5 September - Saturday

Sailed galley up against Gig to Suez, a long beat. Then walked back, Weather by no means very hot.


7 September - Monday

Took a walk up to Suez and back, about 6 miles.

Vice Consul Norrish called on me.

8 September - Tuesday

Called on Rashid Pasha, the Governor of Suez, this morning.

Took my usual walk this afternoon. Find it lonely and uninteresting and the weather is so warm, though not extreme, that one does not feel inclined much for violent exercise.

9 September - Wednesday

A long letter from Baldie telling me of his lack of money. Written very nicely. He will require help until next May.

German cruiser Buzzard passed through Canal for Australia.

13 September - Sunday

A sand storm, though not very strong this evening.

This morning the Swinger, Cdr Jock Allen, arrived from Australia having left there last May. She lost her corporal of Marines at Suakin from heat Apoplexy.

Allen exactly the same, not one whit altered. Still very free in his language. He lunched with me and then entered Canal.

Walked up to Suez and back.

15 September - Tuesday

Colonna (Italian) arrived from Massowah .

16 September - Wednesday

Himalaya arrived from Colombo and entered the Canal.

A long letter from Olga. I wish I could offer a home at once.

17 September - Thursday

Second day of our cricket match against Suez C.C.. We beat them in the 1st innings, but got beaten in the second.

18 September - Friday

Mr Norrish, Vice Consul, and his three daughters came off to tea. They paid me a long visit. Weather very cool. Ther. in my cabin not often above 82 to 84 and in the early morning goes down to 78.

19 September - Saturday

Intend keeping accounts.

My normal daily walk up and back to Suez, about 6 miles.

I learn Hymns walking up.

Haircut. 1/8d.

20 September - Sunday

Service on board. A very pleasant one. I read for a sermon some extracts from John Newton.

Mr Guy and children came off and the governess, Miss Watson, a nice looking woman.

22 September - Tuesday

Boat race. Cutter, Whaler, Gig and Galley. Cutter won easily. Galley and Gig the two last.

Stamps 2/6d. Ginger Ale 6d.

26 September - Saturday

The Holy xx Carpet arrived from Mecca. It is really strips of tapestry and of by no means large dimension. It is suspended from poles in the form of a tent and the poles are fixed on top of a camel and it parades through the town.

Walked up to Suez and back with Inglefield.

27 September - Sunday

The Guys came off to Service, also Miss Watson, their Governess. I should think an earnest Christian young woman.

Took my six mile walk.

28 September - Monday

Walked to Suez and back. Weather getting very pleasant. Thermometer hardly over 80 Fah.

29 September - Tuesday

Weston Bey and his wife came to tea with me. The former is a clever man, but talks too much.

30 September - Wednesday

Took my usual walk up to Suez and back. Ther. below 80 all day in my cabin.

Long loving letter from Olga. Coffee 1d.

1 October - Thursday

Paid a visit to the Vice Consul’s and had tea with the ladies, then on to the cricket match and walked back.

Had a nice letter from John Cory sending £20 for the Rest and also one from F.A.Bevan with £20 and becoming a Vice-President.

I write many letters, some very long ones. My postage bill comes to at least 10/- a month and sometimes 15/-.

Sand storm today.

2 October - Friday

Cricket match. Beaten by 70 runs.

3 October - Saturday

Walked out to the camp and had a chat with Turner. I.T. Agent. and got on board having walked 6½ miles.

4 October - Sunday

The Guys came off to Service.

I walked out to French Hospital and saw Mr Clarke, whom I have invalided as he has been a month in hospital, suffering from strictures and is not much better.

5 October - Monday

Getting ready for sea.

Don’t know the man, not ever heard from him, yet the Governor General, Holled Smith, assumes he is going to travel to Suakin by Melita. I’ve written a line to Beauchamp asking about it.

7 October - Wednesday

Dined with Guys, very pleasant people.

DEPART SUEZ

9 October - Friday

Left Suez, having Col Holled Smith on board, for Suakin. Made sail.

11 October - Sunday

Sailing down to Suakin, not much wind.

12 October - Monday

Wind failed between the Brothers and the Daedalus.

13 October - Tuesday

Steaming down and light wind astern makes it warm and oppressive.

ARRIVE SUAKIN

15 October - Thursday

Last night the worst we have had for a long time. Very damp and oppressive. I got hardly any sleep.

Arrived off Sanganeb Reef this morning and at Suakin 5 pm, delaying my arrival on account of the heat. (pm. Ther. in my cabin 89.)

16 October - Friday

Very warm here notwithstanding a breeze. The Ther. in my cabin standing just on 90 all day.

17 October - Saturday

Holled Smith and I walked out to the Water Forts and on our return felt quite exhausted, the weather being so oppressive.

Dined this evening at the Suakin Brigade mess. Had Captain Frith on my right and Capt. Palmer on my left. Left at 10 30 pm.

Moved the ship this afternoon so as to get more wind astern.

18 October - Sunday

Three of the military officers came off to church. Judge, Dunning and Frith.

19 October - Monday

A large party of us went out riding and intended to have a look at McNeill’s jereba, but missed our way. We had a good ride of some 12 to 14 miles.

Very oppressive. Ther. 90 and damp.

Rain accumulating in the hills, a little fell at Suakin.

20 October - Tuesday

Very warm and oppressive. Ther. 89 and only 2 of dryness in the atmosphere.

Inglefield and I dined with Colonel Holled Smith.

DEPART SUAKIN

21 October - Wednesday

Left Suakin for Suez. Lt Col Hunter taking passage with me.

Archibald Hunter wounded and sleeping in a cot in my cabin.

ARRIVE SUEZ

25 October - Sunday

Arrived at Suez.

26 October - Monday

Seraphis passed through.

Heard from Battenberg that Melita is not likely to be relieved in the Red Sea for some time.

27 October - Tuesday

Blanche arrived.

Paid Angus MacLeod a visit and had a very pleasant chat with him. He is an out and out Christian man and is doing good work in his ship as Captain. I pray I may do more in my ship.

He brought Lowry out from England, where he had gone on sick leave.

28 October - Wednesday

Boadicea arrived and Donner went ashore with me. I have been very seedy all day as I caught a cold last night.

29 October - Thursday

Donner and Weston lunched with me. I do not care for Weston Bey. He talks too glibly on spiritual matters.

Called on the Consul.

Boadicea having 40 odd fever cases on board remains here for the present. She left 35 men behind at Malta with fever.

Heard from Lowry. He tells me he is still seedy and may have to leave Undaunted. He spent an evening with the Newtons at Mickleover. I believe there will something come out of it bye and bye.

30 October - Friday

Lunched on board the Boadicea with Donner. Met the Newton family and also met Major des Barres, my old school fellow. We had not seen each other since 1863 at North Grove House, Southsea.

31 October - Saturday

Malabar came in and I called on Captain Jones and found Major Watson R.A. and his wife, my old friend Elnith Curzon, on board. They are returning on account of her having had a very heavy attack of Typhoid fever.

They came on board Melita at 5 pm and at 6, Major Watson gave a Gospel address in the Gangway and I played the Harmonium. About 70 of the men clustered aft and I was very pleased to see their readiness in coming.

The Watsons dined with me. She is much quieter, but I think she requires more softness. But she is very true and straight.

Suez beat Melita and Boadicea at cricket.

Have forgotten all about my accounts.

1 November - Sunday

Rev. Mr Ball preached at Suez and afterwards we had the Holy Communion. 3 of my men, I am thankful to say, stopped for it.

Mr Ball dined with me. I should say he belonged to the Broad School of Churchmen.

2 November - Monday

Donner and I called on the Governor this morning. Middlemass Bey and his wife with Donner, lunched with me.

Boadicea gave Melita a great hiding at cricket.

4 November - Wednesday

The Suez CC beat the Boadicea and Melita - a thorough thrashing. A long loving letter from Olga.

5 November - Thursday

Boadicea still here with a sick list of 50 from fever mostly. Two cases landed, one very ill from Typhoid

6 November - Friday

Cricket match. Melita beat Boadicea 103 to 84,

5 more men landed from Boadicea.

8 November - Sunday

Rev. Mr Bell of Boadicea took evening service on shore and then held the Communion Service and returned to dinner with me. We had a very pleasant spiritual conversation together.

9 November - Monday

The two daughters of Captain Case about a month ago took Typhoid Fever, aged 19 and 17, very nice, gentle well brought up girls with pleasant manners. This afternoon the eldest died.

Yesterday I sent 4 men and a cot and removed the youngest to another house as their rooms adjoined. She does not know her sister is dead.

10 November - Tuesday

Attended the funeral of Miss Case. Mr Bell officiated.

13 men from Boadicea this morning to the hospital, making 33 fever patients. I have 7 men acting as nurses.

Boadicea sailed at 3 pm.

12 November - Thursday

Witheridge AB in cells, got very unwell, off his head. The Doctor cannot make out what is wrong with him.

Miss Case is better.

13 November - Friday

Witheridge evidently managed to get some tobacco whilst in cells and chewing it on an empty stomach poisoned himself, and very nearly did for himself.

15 November - Sunday

Spent several hours reading and talking to the men in hospital. One poor boy is very ill.

18 November - Wednesday

Had a long letter from Olga, who told me of her Mother’s losses so that we cannot expect to receive anything more from her. This will probably delay our marriage I fear.

21 November - Saturday

Had to break to Thompson, Ldg Stoker of Boadicea that he was in a very dangerous state. I am much afraid he will not get over the fever.

22 November - Sunday

Held a short service at the Hospital.

All going on well with the exception of four or five. Wrote a letter for one man, I. Thompson, a Ldg Stoker. I fear he is dying.

23 November - Monday

Thompson very ill at Hospital and I am afraid he is sinking.

24 November - Tuesday

Thompson very ill.

25 November - Wednesday

Thompson slightly better.

A loving letter from Olga. Heard from dear old Bertie.

[Semaphore signals]

26 November - Thursday

Euphrates came in so after having a chat with Bromley, I introduced myself to Flynn, the Chaplain and we had a long spiritual talk together and then we had a pleasant short prayer together.

Returned on board to find many visitors (ladies) on board having tea in my cabin.

Paid a visit to Hospital. Thompson’s life hanging on a thread.

29 November - Sunday

Seraphis arrived homeward bound at noon, had to board her, no signal having been made not to. Met Hicks, the Captain.

At 3 pm went up to the Hospital and held a short Service.

At 5 pm attended evening service at the Hotel (room set apart for it). The clergyman just come has the right ring about him.

Preached this evening on St Andrew’s. 1. Having an attentive ear. 2. Following Jesus. 3. Becoming a Home Missionary.

3 December - Thursday

Went out firing. The men made most excellent firing and I do not mind fighting a Frenchman double the size of Melita.

4 December - Friday

Received the thanks of the Egyptian Government via the C-in-C, Sec of Adm, Foreign Office, Sir E Baring, Tigrane Pasha, for hauling off the Cherbia last year off the reefs 6 miles from Suakin.

Heard from Hogg at Alexandria that he intended having a try for Miss Peel next Monday. Wrote him a long fatherly letter.

6 December - Sunday

Statham and I had a short service at the Hospital, Everyone is doing well I am glad to say.

7 December - Monday

Had sail drill this morning.

Walked out to the camp and had 5 o’clock tea with Turner.

He told me the unnatural crimes committed, to his knowledge, by the Effendi and Bey class in Egypt was something too awful. Boys he has seen at Suez dressed up as girls and the natives have told him the same and other things he told me.

There is no doubt that sodomy is a much more frequent crime everywhere than is generally known. London, Paris, Naples, Florence and more, especially in the East, it is very prevalent.

Said Pasha died from it. I heard this from Dr Mackie at Alexandria, who also said much the same as Turner did about its prevalence in Egypt amongst the gentry class.

8 December - Tuesday

Heard from Hogg that he had proposed to Miss Peel last Friday and she took 48 hours to consider over it and accepted him on Sunday. He is going to resign and hopes to get a vacant billet in the Egyptian Coast Guard Service.

Middlemass Bey wrote me asking to tell him if I thought Hogg would do for the C.Gd. Service and to telegraph “ Yes” or “No.” I am glad to say I could telegraph “Yes.” Wrote Middlemass Bey about Hogg.

9 December - Wednesday

Went round the Hospital with Drs Sharples and Cresswell, a little feeling what one might call ‘medical’ jealousy. Dr Le Grand has gone away for a fortnight and turned the duties over to Cresswell.

Had a good game of lawn tennis.

13 December - Sunday

To Hospital. Not much power to Statham. Had tea and prayer together. We both received a blessing, he in giving his sermon, I in hearing and also in walking down with Id. He talked freely on religious matters.

Malabar came through the Canal. Boarded her and induced Jones to take Boadicea’s convalescents.

Met Turner on board and both Jones and I told him that he was looking very ill.

14 December - Monday

Poor Turner dying from diabetes. Been in a state of coma since last night.

15 December - Tuesday

Turner dies this morning at 4 am, quite unconscious and was buried at 4 pm. The Governor and everyone at Suez of note attended the funeral.

Poor Mrs Turner is left with 4 daughters, the eldest is 16 years old. Wrote to Mrs Turner.

21 December - Monday

Statham lunched with me. We then called on the Haydons and walking up to Suez, called on the Brooks.

22 December - Tuesday

Had a visit from Mr Friedmann, who is endeavouring to start a Jewish State in the land of Midian. He has established a depot at the mouth of the Gulf of Akabah on the Sinai Peninsula and took about 30 Jews down there about 2 or 3 weeks ago, but he tells me that some are walking back from Tor.

He says the Jews will not work manually if they can avoid it. About 7 of them objected to carrying his baggage up at his depot on G. of Akabah. One said he was a shoemaker, though he has been supporting them for months.

He has made friends with the Bedouin in Midian and seen a little of the country. He says there are thousands of inscriptions, very very ancient, 2000 BC, and he is going to get squeezes of them.

He is a man of about 55, very fine figure and pleasant manners. He tells me that £80 000 a year is given to Jews in the Holy Land by their own nation. I quite agree with him that the Jew needs entire weaning from city life to revert to a pastoral life, in order to alter their characteristics.

Attended the giving of prizes at Père Bornet’s school. Theatricals from 2 to 5 in the open air. Very cold at times and a drizzling rain.

23 December - Wednesday

A football match between the Suez and Melita teams. The latter got well beaten. Played in the rain as it rained from 3 until 6.

Heard from Mrs Ker re. the marriage question.

24 December - Thursday

Raining this afternoon

Concert at the Hospital. Miss Norrish got it up. All the sick wheeled into one room and singing and recitations went on from 3 30 to 5 pm.

I thanked the people for their kind thought in coming.

25 December - Friday

Held service on board. Very cold blustery day. At noon walked round the Lower Deck, very prettily decorated. Our amateur band played us round. Men cheered both Inglefield and myself most heartily.

Received official letter from CinC stating we had received the presents from the French Government.

Dined at E. Telegraph Co. Staff Mess. A very good dinner. Returned thanks for the guests.

27 December - Sunday

Sent a funeral party up to attend the funeral of a French sailor.

28 December - Monday

The Mother Superior and 3 sisters including Sister Madeleine came down and visited the ship and remained to tea and most thoroughly enjoyed themselves.

Sister Madeleine had hardly been out of the Hospital grounds for 3 years. She is Irish and is a Miss Howard.

29 December - Tuesday

Lunched at Watsons.

31 December - Thursday

Reading Olga’s letter at dinner this evening, just as I had got half way through it, a telegram was handed to me. Opening it, I read “Hall promoted, Woodhead.”

I thanked God for giving it to me and asked him that my life might henceforth be more fully consecrated to Him.

I sent the telegram down to the Wardroom and they all came up and spoke so touchingly to me about it, and the Ship’s Corporal on behalf of the men.

Oh what a relief to me now that I am on the Seniority List. I know my dear Olga’s heart is full tonight. Bless her and my dear loving sisters and brothers.

I thank God most humbly for all his Love, Mercy and Goodness to me during the past 12 months and blessing me with so many spiritual and temporal blessings.

So ends 1891.

1892

1 January - Friday

Last night as I narrated in my last journal, I received a telegram stating that I was promoted. I received it whilst reading a very loving letter from my Olga.

This day 16 of my men with myself attended service at Suez, Statham preached a very nice sermon on the name Jesus. We afterwards walked down together and he lunched with me. At 4 pm. Inglefield and I walked up together and made some calls. It seems almost too good to be true, that I am at last on the Captain’s list. How my dear old Father would have rejoiced, if he had been spared. Happier he though now. I pray this year may commence with a fuller dedication of my life to Christ Jesus, by and through his strength.

8 January - Friday

On Monday last, I went up to Cairo, putting up at the Hotel Continental. Dined that evening with the Haringtons. He is Commandant of the Cairo Police, 1300 strong, and just the man for the billet.

On Tuesday morning, I called on Sir Evelyn Baring and had a long chat with him whilst he was at breakfast, on the Red Sea in general and the slave trade in particular. I told him that I did not consider it was necessary to keep a ship in these parts during the summer. He agreed with me in every thing that I said and I told him the only effectual way of stopping the Trade was by putting patrols on the Caravan route, which the government are going to do. However, we both came to the conclusion that neither the French, nor the Italian Government took the slightest interest in the question. He asked me to call on Palmer, and give him my opinion on the Eastern Sudan. Told him he would be a made a Peer. He laughed.

Tuesday afternoon, I went down to Helouan to see St John and Christine and remained the remainder of the day with them. Christine is, I should think, 10 years older than he is. She is quiet, I should not say a very joyous person, i.e. not very sympathetic, though I am sure she has a very loving heart. But I cannot help thinking the marriage is a great mistake, for I am afraid that she is feeling under a kind of obligation to St John and knowing that he has sacrificed a good deal for her, is not the person to soften his little angularities, and that he, missing the tender sympathy, I am sure his nature longs for, will tend to make him crystallise more and more into himself.

I cannot think St John is very much in love with her. He only saw her five times (3 years ago) and his proposal was evidently done on the spur of the moment. Certainly if Olga and I stood the same relation that Christine and St John do to one another, I could not be happy, neither could Olga be happy.

On Wednesday the 6th I paid numerous visits, meeting Palmer, Milner, the Grenfells, Moncrieffs and others, and also had the Kers to tea with me at the Continental, though Rivers did not turn up.

Thursday I lunched with St John and Christine and on returning to town, the Haringtons told me the Khedive was dying at Helouan and very soon after a telephone came saying that he had died at 6.45. Much excitement amongst all the officials.

Young Harbord and 50 police were sent down to Helouan to guard the palace, as the body guard had bolted. The Khedive had only sent a message in to the Haringtons that forenoon, saying that he was better. He died from a bad cold and being thick set, short and stout man, it settled on his lungs and carried him off in a few hours. His native doctor mismanaged the case. When his Greek Dr was called for, it was too late. His life might have been saved, humanly speaking, but for the Dr losing his head.

The eldest son, who is in Vienna, has been telegraphed for. I do not think there will be any complications. If anything the Khedive’s death will tighten England’s hold on Egypt.

I returned to the ship this day.

10 January - Sunday

Dear E.D.s birthday.

Preached to the men on wrestling in prayer and who the unseen foes that we have to contend against. Men were very attentive. Walked up to Suez with Miss Watson, and had a nice spiritual conversation with her, she is a very straight Christian. Had tea and a prayer with Statham before he commenced his service.

11 January - Monday

HMS Malabar came in and takes on a lot of my things to England.

14 January - Thursday

Dear Lel’s birthday. Heard by telegram of Prince Albert Victor’s death. I was afraid of his illness proving fatal when I heard that he had Influenza. One feels so very sorry for our beloved Queen and Princess May, a widow yet never a wife. It is very sad. Prince Edward always looked very delicate. Prince George is more robust, I am sorry that he will now have to leave the Navy.

Many letters of congratulations come to me. One from an old friend, a lawyer H Bothamley, whom I had quite lost sight of, he told me that in 1874 I had given him a bottle of Madeira to be drunk when I was made a Post Captain, and he still had it, having sealed it up and labelled it 17 years ago “Captain King-Hall’s Madeira.”

I am delighted to see that Bertie has got such a good appointment as 1st Gunnery of the Undaunted, and will be under my dear friend Lowry.

Gave a large lunch today to all the officers.

16 January - Saturday

Letters from Olga and Bertie, the latter is very sombre with respect to dear Buz, who I can see shrinks from entering the Ministry and does not like to draw back. I am quite sure he should not enter the Ministry.

I am so anxious to marry my dear Olga, who is so loving and patient and unselfish.

18 January - Monday

Dougherty, at the Hospital has declared to be suffering from Small Pox and of a most virulent type. I am anxious about the rest of the men. I have been a little depressed today, as my varicose veins seem to get worse, and I may not be able to go on with the Service, and the thought of my responsibilities weighed heavily on me. Prayer is the only refuge and solace.

23 January - Saturday

Buried Dougherty this afternoon, he died last night from black small pox, in great pain and suffering. I did not think much of R.C. burial service, the body was left in place outside for fear of infection and the priest simply gabbled over the service in Latin, as hard as he could go.

We had a walk of a mile and a half out to the cemetery, where I had asked the Priest to go, but, on arriving out there, he said the service was over. However I got him to recite some more prayers by the grave.

Last Wednesday we fired 60 minute guns in memory of the death of Duke of Clarence. I trust Prince George will marry later on Princess May.

24 January - Sunday

A pleasant service on board, and also up at the Hospital. I was much pleased at seeing two of the men with their Bibles out. Had the usual prayer with Statham before the evening service.

26 January - Tuesday

Heard this morning from Olga, who seemed to be on the verge of La Grippe. I cannot be but somewhat anxious, but can safely leave her in the hands of the Lord. The deaths from this so-called Influenza is something appalling.

Admiral Robinson from the East Indian station passed through this morning invalided and I fear must be very ill.

27 January - Wednesday

Philomel, Captain Campbell passed through en route to Zanzibar.

Football match, our team got well beaten.

31 January - Sunday

Hogg’s resignation having been accepted, he left this morning. My last service on board this morning. I broke down a little at the beginning. It is hard parting from men that you have been with for 2½ years.

I told them I asked for their prayers as I gave and had given them mine for the Commission.

Yesterday, to my surprise I received some very pretty worked presents from the French Hospital, worked by the orphans and a beautiful worked card, most beautifully painted by Sister Madeleine, with the words “Pensez à moi dans vos prières” on it - one of the presents was for Olga. They intend doing something for a wedding present for her.

Horace Beauchamp to my surprise came into my cabin after the service and I was so pleased to have a chat with him. He told me of how he made God his friend, and I see God is leading him. How blind we mortals are.

6 February - Saturday

Hotel Continental, Port Said. Last Sunday after evening service at Suez, Statham came down to the ship and gave an address to the men and after dinner at 11 pm I entered the Canal in the ship. By 3 pm of Monday made fast at Port Said.

On Wednesday night my relief turned up in the Valetta and Thursday I turned the ship over to him. The officers gave me a dinner on Wednesday Evening, and we had farewell speeches.

After lunch on Thursday, the officers pulled me on shore, Inglefield taking stroke and took me round the ship, the men first manning the Starboard rigging and then the Port, each time giving me most hearty cheers. Carey and Biddlecombe each gave me a book. I was much touched at these tokens of regard.

Yesterday, (Friday), I went round the French fleet Hoche, Marceau, and Courbet most formidable vessels in the way of armament, but splendid targets. I consider the Marceau the most formidable, tho’ I believe the French think the Hoche is.

In this forenoon I called on board the Fronde and paid my respects to the French Admiral. The Captain asked me when I was going to be married. We made each others acquaintance at Jaffa, re the Seignelay affair.

Last night, I received two letters from my beloved Olga. I was much distressed at reading that Nini and Walter were on their way out by reason of Walter having consumption, the cause being anaemia. Olga’s hinting it was lurking in the family has caused me anxiety, for she and Walter are very much alike in every way.

I know not man proposes, I can but pray that all will be well but, my heart is heavy at times. In this world there is nothing but sadness and change.

DEPART EGYPT

12 February - Friday


On Monday last I embarked on board the P & O Peninsular and yesterday we arrived at Brindisi and left again for Malta. Weather yesterday raw and given me muscular rheumatism. I must be careful. Today is fine and Mount Etna covered with snow looked very fine. I have a good cabin on the Upper Deck. There are not many passengers. The living is very good and steamer most comfortable, averaging easily 15 knots an hour. Capt. Loggin a Christian man.

AT MALTA

14 February - Sunday

We left Malta on Friday evening 11 pm having remained there a few hours. I saw Sir Geo Tryon and had a few minutes chat with him. He told me the Victoria could be got ready in case of necessity in 10 days.

I dined with Sherrard. Admiral Butler and family embarked for England. A heavy swell all day rolling heavily.

AT GIBRALTAR

15 February - Monday

Arrived at Gibraltar at 8 pm. Edward Grogan came off to see me and we had a long chat together.

Admiral Buller told me Sir A. Hoskins was much cut up by my not being promoted last July and spoke to Lord Geo Hamilton about it who said: “Why did you not write?” Admiral H said: “I did 3 times officially and twice privately.”

Admiral H. told Ed Grogan I was as good an officer as my dear father. This indeed makes me feel proud. A very loving letter from Olga.


18 February - Thursday

Entered the Channel this morning and should be at Plymouth this evening. The Peninsular is a splendid boat and keeps up 15 to 15½ kn easily in good weather. With a heavy head sea she keeps up 13 kn, burns 80 tons a day.

AT PLYMOUTH

19 February - Friday

Anchored in the Sound last night, a bitter East wind blowing and during the night a regular blizzard blew, and snow fell. I feel the cold very much, not having been in England for many years in the winter.

A loving letter from my beloved this morning. How I do love her. She is so unselfish telling me to spend my first evening with E.D. and Lel, knowing they are anxious to see me. Few girls would give up their lover like this.


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